Then the king commanded two of his servants to go and inquire of the

people who lived in the mountains, and to cross the river either in

boats or by swimming. So they searched and found a large bridge, on

which there were three towers, but the gate of the bridge was locked.

And on the other side of the bridge was a great city. Then they

shouted in front of the bridge till a man came forth and asked them

what they wanted and who they were. But they did not understand him

till an interpreter came who understood their language. And when he

asked them, they said, "We are the servants of the king of Persia, and

we have come to ask who you are, and whom you serve." To which the

other replied: "We are Jews; we have no king and no Gentile prince,

but a Jewish prince rules over us." They then questioned him with

regard to the infidels, the sons of Ghuz of the Kofar-al-Turak, and he

answered: "Truly they are in league with us, and he who seeks to do

them harm seeks our harm." Then they went their way, and told the king

of Persia, who was much alarmed. And on a certain day the Jews asked

him to join combat with them, but he answered: "I am not come to fight

you, but the Kofar-al-Turak, my enemy, and if you fight against me I

will be avenged on you by killing all the Jews in my Empire; I know

that you are stronger than I am in this place, and my army has come

out of this great wilderness starving and athirst. Deal kindly with me

and do not fight against me, but leave me to engage with the

Kofar-al-Turak, my enemy, and sell me also the provisions which I

require for myself and my army."

[p.87]

The Jews then took counsel together, and resolved to propitiate the

king on account of the Jews who were in exile in his Empire. Then the

king entered their land with his army, and stayed there fifteen days.

And they showed him much honour, and also sent a dispatch to the

Kofar-al-Turak their allies, reporting the matter to them. Thereupon

the latter occupied the mountain passes in force with a large army

composed of all those who dwelt in that desert, and when the king of

Persia went forth to fight with them, they placed themselves in battle

array against him. The Kofar-al-Turak army was victorious and slew

many of the Persian host, and the king of Persia fled with only a few

followers to his own country[169].

[p.88]

Now a horseman, one of the servants of the king of Persia, enticed a

Jew, whose name was R. Moses, to come with him, and when he came to

the land of Persia this horseman made the Jew his slave. One day the

archers came before the king to give a display of their skill and no

one among them could be found to draw the bow like this R. Moses. Then

the king inquired of him by means of an interpreter who knew his

language, and he related all that the horseman had done to him.

Thereupon the king at once granted him his liberty, had him clad in

robes of silk, gave him gifts, and said to him, "If thou wilt embrace

our religion, I will make thee a rich man and steward of my house,"

but he answered, "My lord, I cannot do this thing." Then the king took

him and placed him in the house of the Chief Rabbi of the Ispahan

community, Sar Shalom, who gave him his daughter to wife. This same R.

Moses told me all these things.

Thence one returns to the land of Khuzistan which is by the river

Tigris, and one goes down the river which falls into the Indian Ocean

unto an island called Kish[170]. It is a six days' journey to reach

this island.

[p.89]

The inhabitants neither sow nor reap. They possess only one well, and

there is no stream in the whole island, but they drink rain-water. The

merchants who come from India and the islands encamp there with their

wares. Moreover, men from Shinar, El-Yemen and Persia bring thither

all sorts of silk, purple and flax, cotton, hemp, worked wool, wheat,

barley, millet, rye, and all sorts of food, and lentils of every

description, and they trade with one another, whilst the men from

India bring great quantities of spices thither. The islanders act as

middlemen, and earn their livelihood thereby. There are about 500 Jews

there.

Thence it is ten days' journey by sea to Katifa, where there are about

5,000 Jews. Here the bdellium is to be found[171]. On the

twenty-fourth of Nisan rain falls upon the water, upon the surface of

which certain small sea-animals float which drink in the rain and then

shut themselves up, and sink to the bottom.

[p.90]

And about the middle of Tishri men descend to the bed of the sea by

ropes, and collect these shell-fish, then split them open and extract

the pearls. This pearl-fishery belongs to the King of the country, but

is controlled by a Jewish official.

Thence it is seven days' journey to Khulam which is the beginning of

the country of the Sun-worshippers[172]. These are the sons of Cush,

who read the stars, and are all black in colour. They are honest in

commerce. When merchants come to them from distant lands and enter the

harbour, three of the King's secretaries go down to them and record

their names, and then bring them before the King, whereupon the King

makes himself responsible even for their property which they leave in

the open, unprotected. There is an official who sits in his office,

and the owner of any lost property has only to describe it to him when

he hands it back. This custom prevails in all that country. From

Passover to New Year, that is all during the summer, no man can go out

of his house because of the sun, for the heat in that country is

intense, and from the third hour of the day onward, everybody remains

in his house till the evening. Then they go forth and kindle lights in

all the market places and all the streets, and then do their work and

business at night-time.

[p.91]

For they have to turn night into day in consequence of the great heat

of the sun. Pepper is found there. They plant the trees thereof in the

fields, and each man of the city knows his own plantation. The trees

are small, and the pepper is as white as snow. And when they have

collected it, they place it in saucepans and pour boiling water over

it, so that it may become strong. They then take it out of the water

and dry it in the sun, and it turns black. Calamus and ginger and many

other kinds of spice are found in this land.

The people of this country do not bury their dead, but embalm them by

means of various spices, after which they place them on chairs and

cover them with fine linen. And each family has a house where it

preserves the embalmed remains of its ancestors and relations. The

flesh hardens on the bones, and the embalmed bodies look like living

beings, so that every man can recognize his parents, and the members

of his family for many years.

[p.92]

They worship the sun, and they have high places everywhere outside the

city at a distance of about half a mile. And every morning they run

forth to greet the sun, for on every high place a solar disc is made

of cunning workmanship and as the sun rises the disc rotates with

thundering noise, and all, both men and women, offer incense to the

sun with censers in their hands. Such are their superstitious

practices. And throughout the island, including all the towns there,

live several thousand Israelites. The inhabitants are all black, and

the Jews also. The latter are good and benevolent. They know the law

of Moses and the prophets, and to a small extent the Talmud and

Halacha.

Thence it is twenty-three days by sea to Ibrig[173], and the

inhabitants are fire-worshippers, and are called Duchbin. Among them

are about 3,000 Jews, and these Duchbin have priests in their several

temples who are great wizards in all manner of witchcraft, and there

are none like them in all the earth. In front of the high place of

their temple there is a deep trench, where they keep a great fire

alight all the year, and they call it Elahutha.

[p.93]

And they cause their sons and daughters to pass through the fire, and

even their dead they throw into it. Some of the great men of the

country make a vow to die by fire. In such cases the man communicates

his intention to the members of his household and his relations, and

says:--"I have vowed to throw myself in the fire whilst I am yet

alive," then they answer, saying: "Happy art thou." And when the day

of the performance of his vow arrives, they prepare for him a grand

banquet, and if he is rich he rides on horseback, if poor he goes on

foot to the border of the trench and throws himself into the fire. And

all the members of his family shout to the accompaniment of timbrels

and dancing until the body is entirely consumed. At the end of three

days two of their high priests come to his house and to his children

and say unto them: "Arrange the house, for this day your father will

come to give his last directions as to what ye shall do." And they

bring witnesses from the city. Then Satan is made to appear in the

likeness of the deceased, and when his widow and children ask him how

he fares in the other world he answers: "I went to my companions, but

they would not receive me until I had discharged my obligations to the

members of my house and to my neighbours."

[p.94]

Then he makes his will and divides his property among his children,

and gives directions that all his creditors should be paid and that

his debts should be collected. Then the witnesses write out the will,

and he goes his way and is seen no more. And by means of this trickery

and witchcraft which these priests practise, the people are confirmed

in their errors and assert that there is none in all the land like

their priests.

Thence to cross over to the land of Zin (China) is a voyage of forty

days. Zin is in the uttermost East, and some say that there is the Sea

of Nikpa (Ning-po?), where the star Orion predominates and stormy

winds prevail[174]. At times the helmsman cannot govern his ship, as a

fierce wind drives her into this Sea of Nikpa, where she cannot move

from her place; and the crew have to remain where they are till their

stores of food are exhausted and then they die. In this way many a

ship has been lost, but men eventually discovered a device by which to

escape from this evil place. The crew provide themselves with hides of

oxen.

[p.95]

And when this evil wind blows which drives them into the Sea of Nikpa,

they wrap themselves up in the skins, which they make waterproof, and,

armed with knives, plunge into the sea. A great bird called the

griffin spies them out, and in the belief that the sailor is an

animal, the griffin seizes hold of him, brings him to dry land, and

puts him down on a mountain or in a hollow in order to devour him. The

man then quickly thrusts at the bird with a knife and slays him. Then

the man issues forth from the skin and walks till he comes to an

inhabited place. And in this manner many a man escapes[175].

[p.96]

Thence to Al-Gingaleh is a voyage of fifteen days, and about 1,000

Israelites dwell there. Thence by sea to Chulan is seven days; but no

Jews live there. From there it is twelve days to Zebid, where there

are a few Jews. From there it is eight days' journey to India which is

on the mainland, called the land of Aden, and this is the Eden which

is in Thelasar[176]. The country is mountainous. There are many

Israelites here, and they are not under the yoke of the Gentiles, but

possess cities and castles on the summits of the mountains, from which

they make descents into the plain-country called Lybia, which is a

Christian Empire. These are the Lybians of the land of Lybia, with

whom the Jews are at war. The Jews take spoil and booty and retreat to

the mountains, and no man can prevail against them. Many of these Jews

of the land of Aden come to Persia and Egypt[177].

Thence to the land of Assuan is a journey of twenty days through the

desert. This is Seba on the river Pishon (Nile) which descends from

the land of Cush[178]. And some of these sons of Cush have a king whom

they call the Sultan Al-Habash. There is a people among them who, like

animals, eat of the herbs that grow on the banks of the Nile and in

the fields. They go about naked and have not the intelligence of

ordinary men. They cohabit with their sisters and any one they find.

The climate is very hot. When the men of Assuan make a raid into their

land, they take with them bread and wheat, dry grapes and figs, and

throw the food to these people, who run after it.

[p.97]

Thus they bring many of them back prisoners, and sell them in the land

of Egypt and in the surrounding countries. And these are the black

slaves, the sons of Ham.

From Assuan it is a distance of twelve days to Heluan where there are

about 300 Jews. Thence people travel in caravans a journey of fifty

days through the great desert called Sahara, to the land of Zawilah,

which is Havilah in the land of Gana[179]. In this desert there are

mountains of sand, and when the wind rises, it covers the caravans

with the sand, and many die from suffocation. Those that escape bring

back with them copper, wheat, fruit, all manner of lentils, and salt.

And from thence they bring gold, and all kinds of jewels. This is in

the land of Cush which is called Al-Habash on the western

confines[180]. From Heluan it is thirteen days' journey to Kutz which

is K[=u]s, and this is the commencement of the land of Egypt. At Kutz

there are 300 Jews[181]. Thence it is 300 miles to Fayum, which is

Pithom, where there are 200 Jews; and unto this very day one can see

ruins of the buildings which our forefathers erected there[182].

Thence to Mizraim is a journey of four days.

[p.98]

This Mizraim is the great city situated on the banks of the Nile,

which is Pison or Al-Nil[183]. The number of Jewish inhabitants is

about 7,000. Two large synagogues are there, one belonging to the men

of the land of Israel and one belonging to the men of the land of

Babylon. The synagogue of the men of the land of Israel is called

Kenisat-al-Schamiyyin, and the synagogue of the men of Babylon is

called Kenisat-al-Irakiyyin. Their usage with regard to the portions

and sections of the Law is not alike; for the men of Babylon are

accustomed to read a portion every week, as is done in Spain, and is

our custom, and to finish the Law each year; whilst the men of

Palestine do not do so, but divide each portion into three sections

and finish the Law at the end of three years. The two communities,

however, have an established custom to unite and pray together on the

day of the Rejoicing of the Law, and on the day of the Giving of the

Law[184]. Among the Jews is Nethanel the Prince of Princes and the

head of the Academy, who is the head of all the congregations in

Egypt[185]; he appoints Rabbis and officials, and is attached to the

court of the great King, who lives in his palace of Zoan el-Medina,

which is the royal city for the Arabs.

[p.99]

Here resides the Emir al Muminin, a descendant of Abu Talib. All his

subjects are called "Alawiyyim[186]," because they rose up against the

Emir al Muminin al Abbasi (the Abbaside Caliph) who resides at Bagdad.

And between the two parties there is a lasting feud, for the former

have set up a rival throne in Zoan (Egypt).

Twice in the year the Egyptian monarch goes forth, once on the

occasion of the great festival, and again when the river Nile rises.

Zoan is surrounded by a wall, but Mizraim has no wall, for the river

encompasses it on one side. It is a great city, and it has

market-places as well as inns in great number. The Jews that dwell

there are very rich. No rain falls, neither is ice or snow ever seen.

The climate is very hot.

The river Nile rises once a year in the month of Elul; it covers all

the land, and irrigates it to a distance of fifteen days' journey. The

waters remain upon the surface of the land during the months of Elul

and Tishri, and irrigate and fertilize it.

The inhabitants have a pillar of marble, erected with much skill, in

order to ascertain the extent of the rise of the Nile. It stands in

the front of an island in the midst of the water, and is twelve cubits

high[187].

[p.100]

When the Nile rises and covers the column, they know that the river

has risen and has covered the land for a distance of fifteen days'

journey to its full extent. If only half the column is covered, the

water only covers half the extent of the land. And day by day an

officer takes a measurement on the column and makes proclamation

thereof in Zoan and in the city of Mizraim, proclaiming: "Give praise

unto the Creator, for the river this day has risen to such and such a

height"; each day he takes the measurement and makes his proclamation.

If the water covers the entire column, there will be abundance

throughout Egypt. The river continues to rise gradually till it covers

the land to the extent of fifteen days' journey. He who owns a field

hires workmen, who dig deep trenches in his field, and fish come with

the rise of the water and enter the trenches. Then, when the waters

have receded, the fish remain behind in the trenches, and the owners

of the fields take them and either eat them or sell them to the

fishmongers, who salt them and deal in them in every place. These fish

are exceedingly fat and large, and the oil obtained from them is used

in this land for lamp-oil. Though a man eat a great quantity of these

fish, if he but drink Nile water afterwards they will not hurt him,

for the waters have medicinal properties.

[p.101]

People ask, what causes the Nile to rise? The Egyptians say that up

the river, in the land of Al-Habash (Abyssinia), which is the land of

Havilah, much rain descends at the time of the rising of the river,

and that this abundance of rain causes the river to rise and to cover

the surface of the land[188]. If the river does not rise, there is no

sowing, and famine is sore in the land. Sowing is done in the month of

Marheshwan, after the river has gone back to its ordinary channel. In

the month of Adar is the barley-harvest, and in the month of Nisan the

wheat-harvest.

In the month of Nisan they have cherries, pears, cucumbers, and gourds

in plenty, also beans, peas, chickpeas, and many kinds of vegetables,

such as purslane, asparagus, pulse, lettuce, coriander, endive,

cabbage, leek, and cardoon. The land is full of all good things, and

the gardens and plantations are watered from the various reservoirs

and by the river-water.

The river Nile, after flowing past (the city of) Mizraim, divides into

four heads: one channel proceeds in the direction of Damietta, which

is Caphtor[189], where it falls into the sea.

[p.102]

The second channel flows to the city of Reshid (Rosetta), which is

near Alexandria, and there falls into the sea; the third channel goes

by way of Ashmun, where it falls into the sea; and the fourth channel

goes as far as the frontier of Egypt[190]. Along both banks of these

four river-heads are cities, towns and villages, and people visit

these places either by ship or by land. There is no such

thickly-populated land as this elsewhere. It is extensive too and

abundant in all good things.

From New Mizraim unto Old Mizraim is a distance of two parasangs. The

latter is in ruins, and the place where walls and houses stood can be

seen to the present day. The store-houses also of Joseph of blessed

memory are to be found in great numbers in many places. They are built

of lime and stone, and are exceedingly strong[191]. A pillar is there

of marvellous workmanship, the like of which cannot be seen throughout

the world.

Outside the city is the ancient synagogue of Moses our master, of

blessed memory, and the overseer and clerk of this place of worship is

a venerable old man; he is a man of learning, and they call him Al

Sheik Abu al-Nazr[192]. The extent of Mizraim, which is in ruins, is

three miles.

[p.103]

Thence to the land of Goshen is eight parasangs; here is Bilbais[193].

There are about 300 Jews in the city, which is a large one. Thence it

is half a day's journey to Ain-al-Shams or Ramses, which is in ruins.

Traces are there to be seen of the buildings which our fore-fathers

raised, namely, towers built of bricks. From here it is a day's

journey to Al Bubizig, where there are about 200 Jews. Thence it is

half a day to Benha, where there are about 60 Jews. Thence it takes

half a day to Muneh Sifte, where there are 500 Jews[194]. From there

it is half a day's journey to Samnu, where there are about 200 Jews.

Thence it is four parasangs to Damira, where there are about 700 Jews.

From there it is five days to Lammanah, where there are about 500

Jews[195]. Two days' journey takes one to Alexandria of Egypt, which

is Ammon of No; but when Alexander of Macedon built the city, he

called it after his own name, and made it exceedingly strong and

beautiful[196]. The houses, the palaces, and the walls are of

excellent architecture. Outside the town is the academy of Aristotle,

the teacher of Alexander. This is a large building, standing between

other academies to the number of twenty, with a column of marble

between each. People from the whole world were wont to come hither in

order to study the wisdom of Aristotle the philosopher.

[p.104]

The city is built over a hollow by means of arches. Alexander built it

with great understanding. The streets are wide and straight, so that a

man can look along them for a mile from gate to gate, from the gate of

Reshid to the gate by the sea.

Alexander also built for the harbour of Alexandria a pier, a king's

highway running into the midst of the sea. And there he erected a

large tower, a lighthouse, called Manar al Iskandriyyah in Arabic. On

the top of the tower there is a glass mirror. Any ships that attempted

to attack or molest the city, coming from Greece or from the Western

lands, could be seen by means of this mirror of glass at a distance of

twenty days' journey, and the inhabitants could thereupon put

themselves on their guard. It happened once, many years after the

death of Alexander, that a ship came from the land of Greece, and the

name of the captain was Theodoros, a Greek of great cleverness. The

Greeks at that time were under the yoke of Egypt. The captain brought

great gifts in silver and gold and garments of silk to the King of

Egypt, and he moored his ship in front of the lighthouse, as was the

custom of all merchants.

[p.105]

Every day the guardian of the lighthouse and his servants had their

meals with him, until the captain came to be on such friendly terms

with the keeper that he could go in and out at all times. And one day

he gave a banquet, and caused the keeper and all his servants to drink

a great deal of wine. When they were all asleep, the captain and his

servants arose and broke the mirror and departed that very night. From

that day onward the Christians began to come thither with boats and

large ships, and eventually captured the large island called Crete and

also Cyprus, which are under the dominion of the Greeks. [The other

MSS. add here: Ever since then, the men of the King of Egypt have been

unable to prevail over the Greeks.] To this day the lighthouse is a

landmark to all seafarers who come to Alexandria; for one can see it

at a distance of 100 miles by day, and at night the keeper lights a

torch which the mariners can see from a distance, and thus sail

towards it[197].

[p.106]

Alexandria is a commercial market for all nations. Merchants come

thither from all the Christian kingdoms: on the one side, from the

land of Venetia and Lombardy, Tuscany, Apulia, Amalfi, Sicilia,

Calabria, Romagna, Khazaria, Patzinakia, Hungaria, Bulgaria, Rakuvia

(Ragusa?), Croatia, Slavonia, Russia, Alamannia (Germany), Saxony,

Danemark, Kurland? Ireland? Norway (Norge?), Frisia, Scotia,

Angleterre, Wales, Flanders, Hainault? Normandy, France, Poitiers,

Anjou, Burgundy, Maurienne, Provence, Genoa, Pisa, Gascony, Aragon,

and Navarra[198], and towards the west under the sway of the

Mohammedans, Andalusia, Algarve, Africa and the land of the Arabs: and

on the other side India, Zawilah, Abyssinia, Lybia, El-Yemen, Shinar,

Esh-Sham (Syria); also Javan, whose people are called the Greeks, and

the Turks. And merchants of India bring thither all kinds of spices,

and the merchants of Edom buy of them. And the city is a busy one and

full of traffic. Each nation has an inn of its own.

By the sea-coast there is a sepulchre of marble on which are engraved

all manner of beasts and birds; an effigy is in the midst thereof, and

all the writing is in ancient characters, which no one knows now.

[p.107]

Men suppose that it is the sepulchre of a king who lived in early

times before the Deluge. The length of the sepulchre is fifteen spans,

and its breadth is six spans. There are about 3,000 Jews in

Alexandria.

The Itinerary of Benjamin of Tudela · 第 5 / 10 段