CHAPTER XI.

Enormous Slaughter of Seals.—Manner of Killing.—Battles between the

Bulls.—A Mythical Island.—The Seal as Food.—The Sea-Otter.—A Rare and

Valuable Fur.—The Baby Sea-Otter.—Great Breeding-Place of Birds.—Banks

of the Yukon River.—Fur-Bearing Land Animals.—Aggregate Value of the

Trade.—Character of the Native Race.

Surgeon J. B. Parker tells us in a published article upon the fur-seals

of Alaska, that just previous to the transfer of the country to this

government five hundred thousand sealskins were being taken from these

islands annually, though it was pretended by the Russians that they

restricted the number to one quarter of this total. The strange instinct

of the animals which causes them to return yearly in such marvelous

numbers to be slaughtered is a mystery difficult to solve. Persistent

cruelty exercised towards them for a century has not disturbed their

affection for this chosen breeding-place of their ancestors in Behring

Sea.

The seals are universally killed by a sharp blow upon the head from a

club, which fractures the skull and produces instant death. The natives

are so skillful in dealing this blow that a second one is not necessary,

and the seal cannot reasonably be supposed to suffer any pain, so that

the operation is robbed of all cruel features. The frequent battles

fought between the old bulls to maintain possession of their chosen

ground and their harems are represented to be of the fiercest character,

sometimes ending in the death of one of the combatants, though they are

so very hardy and tenacious of life that this is by no means common. The

breeding season is at its height in the middle of July. Early in

September, the pups having learned to swim, the “rookeries” are

gradually broken up for the season, old and young departing together for

the deep-sea feeding grounds, nothing being seen of them again as a body

until the following May or June. It is quite a mystery as to where they

go, but that they promptly disperse in various directions seems most

probable, as no seals are met with in large numbers by navigators of the

Pacific or the South Seas, and they only land for breeding purposes. The

author has seen a few in the month of March off the Samoan group of

islands, also in the month of December near the coast of Cochin China.

And again, in crossing the Indian Ocean from Bombay to the mouth of the

Red Sea, in February, an occasional head of the fur-seal would appear

above the surface of the ocean, showing how widely dispersed these

animals are. There is a theory which has long existed, to the effect

that when the seals depart from Behring Sea they seek a lonely island

group in the central Pacific Ocean, somewhere between 53° and 55° north

latitude, and longitude 160° to 170° west, where they pass their winter

months in peace and plenty. Expeditions have been fitted out at San

Francisco for the purpose of discovering these possible islands, but no

one has ever seen them. Those most conversant with seal-life do not

entertain this supposition, and for good reasons. If any such land

existed in the region designated it would surely have been discovered,

as it is too near the direct track of commerce not to have been sighted

long ago.

The flesh of the fur-seal is eaten by the natives, and the blubber also

serves for fuel, as well as furnishing a much-used oil. The stench of

the burning fat is extremely disgusting to one not accustomed to it.

There is but little lean meat on the animal; nearly the whole body is

composed of blubber. The whites eat the flesh of the young seal, which

is not unpalatable when properly prepared, and is called Alaska pork.

When the females arrive at the “rookeries,” like the old males, they are

in remarkably good flesh, so much so, indeed, as to render locomotion

difficult; but though they do not fast like the bulls, they nevertheless

become quite thin by the end of the season.

St. George and St. Paul islands contain about three hundred and fifty

Aleuts, whose sole business is killing and skinning the seals, and

afterwards salting and packing the pelts for shipment. They are all in

the regular employment of the Commercial Company, which leases the

islands. By the terms of the lease from our government, only natives of

the Aleutian group of islands can be employed to kill the seals; no

whites except the overseers are permitted to remain on the two islands.

An agent of the United States occasionally visits them to see that the

spirit of the lease is faithfully adhered to; otherwise they are quite

isolated from the outer world. Under the protective system, which is

presumedly adhered to, the number of seals is said to be on the

increase, and the space on the shores which they occupy is enlarged

yearly. It has been officially estimated, after actual inspection, that

over one million seals are born on these islands every year. It is

asserted that double the number of pelts now authorized could safely be

taken from the Pribyloff group annually, and it would certainly seem so,

when this extraordinary fecundity is realized. But it must also be taken

into consideration that man is not the only enemy which the fur-seal has

to encounter. When the young ones leave the shore to begin their

deep-sea life, they become the prey of many marine cormorants, among

which the shark is said to be the most active. This tiger of the ocean

does not attack the large, full-grown seals, who are too wary and active

for him, but the young ones often fill his capacious maw.

The aborigines employed upon the seal islands do not reach a very old

age; persons of over fifty years are seldom found among them.

Consumption is the most fatal disease which they encounter; this runs

its course with singular speed after being once contracted. All attempts

of the physicians are in vain; the patient, falling into a condition of

hopeless indifference, soon passes away. We were told that the natives

of Alaska generally were very difficult to treat medically, ignoring the

benefit of medicines, and generally refusing to take them. These

semi-savages will not hesitate to resort to incantations to exorcise

evil spirits (or disease, which to them is the same thing), but they

fear to use the white man’s agent to remove these evil influences.

For a number of years the manufacture of oil from seal blubber was

followed by the fur company with profit, thus disposing of the carcasses

of the animals whose skin had been removed; but oil-making on the seal

islands has been discontinued, as being no longer a paying business.

The sea-otter is a large animal, having fine, close black fur, sprinkled

with long, white-tipped hairs, which strongly individualize it and add

much to its beauty. Its pelt is used mostly for trimming, being both too

heavy and too expensive for making up into entire garments. The size of

a full-grown skin is about four feet in length by about two and a half

wide. It is a solitary marine animal, never seen in numbers, rarely even

with a mate, and is extremely shy, demanding great patience and

shrewdness in the hunter to insure its capture. This animal rarely lands

except to bring forth its young, and the natives say that it sometimes

gives birth to its progeny on floating sedge or kelp at sea. Of this

material the ingenious creature makes a sort of buoyant nest, according

to the natives’ ideas. When sleeping, it floats upon its back, carrying

its young clasped to its body in a ludicrously human fashion. The

Indians hunt the animals by going out a considerable distance to sea in

their frail canoes, and watching for the appearance of the otter’s nose

above the water, they paddle silently towards it so as not to disturb

the game. At the proper moment the well-balanced and delicate lance is

thrown with unerring aim. A careful watch is then kept for the

reappearance of the otter, which must soon come to the surface to

breathe, being a warm-blooded, respiratory animal. A second lance is

pretty sure to disable the otter, when it floats helpless on the

surface, falling an easy prey to the pursuer. At times six or eight

natives in single canoes join in the hunt, so as to form a broad circle;

the nearest one to the otter when he rises after being wounded is the

one to throw the second lance. The hunters obtain from the local traders

between forty and fifty dollars for a full-grown otter skin, and

sometimes double that amount, so that if successful in the pursuit they

are well rewarded for many hours of patient watchfulness, aside from

which they realize a keen enjoyment in the pursuit as sportsmen.

The hunters oftenest pursue their game alone, and if a native secures an

otter after a whole week of watching he feels well repaid, though during

that time he has lived on a scanty supply of food, and has slept nightly

in the open air exposed to the rain. Sometimes his watch is kept in his

boat upon the sea, and sometimes among the rocks on the shore, in a bay

where the otters are known to resort occasionally. A few years of such

rough life and exposure ages even an Alaskan Indian, and it is not

surprising that rheumatism and consumption should so prevail among them.

Up to a certain stage such a life may harden the hunter, but the

turning-point comes at last, and when the native begins to fail in

physical strength he does so rapidly; simply giving way to the first

attack, rejecting all medicine which the white man may offer, and unless

he is an important member of his tribe, a chief or a leader of some

sort, even the shaman or medicine man with his incantations is not

called in. Good nursing is discarded, the invalid considers it to be his

fate to die, and seems to go half way to meet the grim destroyer.

The fur of the sea-otter varies in beauty of texture and value according

to the animal’s age and the season of the year in which it is captured.

They are considered to be in their prime when about five years old, and

those skins which are taken in winter are always of a more beautiful

texture than those which are secured in summer. Of all animals hunted by

man it is most on the alert, and, as we have said, most difficult to

obtain. One intelligent statement declares that before they were so

systematically hunted eight thousand skins were shipped from Alaska in a

single year, but we believe that from four to five thousand otter skins

would be considered a good twelve months’ yield in these days. The

Saanack islets and reefs are the principal resort of these animals on

the coast, and hither the natives come from long distances to hunt them,

camping on the main island. Frequent attempts have been made to rear the

young sea-otter, specimens being often taken when the mother is

captured, but they always perish by starvation, never partaking of food

after being separated from the mother; a well-known fact, which was

referred to with not a little sentiment by the experienced hunter who

related the circumstance to us. “Him die of broke heart,” said the

native, attempting an expression of tenderness upon his egg-shaped

features, which proved a ludicrous caricature. We saw a stuffed specimen

of a young sea-otter in a native cabin at Juneau, consisting of the skin

only, but very cleverly mounted and preserved by the hunter who had

captured its mother.

It is somewhat singular that the world’s supply of otter fur, like that

of sealskin, comes almost entirely from the coast of Alaska, in the

North Pacific and Behring Sea. Otter fur may be said to be almost

confined in its geographical distribution to the northwest shores of

America.

The successful pursuit of the animal, so far as the natives are

concerned, is of even more importance than that of the fur-seals, for

contingent upon its chase, and from the proceeds of its pelts, some five

thousand natives are enabled to live in comparative luxury. It requires,

as we have shown, great energy, hardihood, and patient application to

effect its capture, but the sea-otter is a most beneficent gift of

Providence to these aborigines, and administers, as well, to the pride

of the fashionable world. The natives in former times attached great

importance to preparing themselves for hunting the sea-otter, fasting,

bathing, and performing certain mystic rites before embarking for the

purpose. After his return from a successful hunt the Aleut was

accustomed to destroy the garments which he wore during the expedition,

throwing them into the sea, so that the otters might find them and come

to the conclusion that their late persecutor had been drowned and there

was no further danger in frequenting the shore. This practice,

ridiculous as it seems to us, serves to illustrate the superstitious

character of the Alaskan natives, who seldom fail to see omens in the

most trifling every-day occurrences.

The interior and northern parts of Alaska are the greatest

breeding-places for birds in the world, being the resort of innumerable

flocks, which come from various parts of this continent, and others

which make the tropical islands their home a large portion of the year

on both the Atlantic and Pacific sides of America. These myriads of the

feathered tribes consist largely of geese, ducks, and swans, coming

hither for nesting, and to fatten upon the wild salmon berries, red and

black currants, cranberries, blackberries, bilberries, and the like,

which greatly abound during the brief but intense Arctic summer. There

are eleven kinds of edible berries which mature in August, among which

the wild strawberries are the finest flavored we have ever eaten. It is

said that the geese especially become so fat feeding upon the plentiful

supply of wholesome food that at the close of the season they can hardly

fly, and are thus easily caught by the natives, who, in turn, feast

luxuriously upon their tender and succulent flesh. Explorers tell us

that they have seen on the banks of the Yukon—the great river of central

Alaska, and the third in magnitude in America—the breeding-place of the

canvas-back ducks, which has been heretofore a matter of some mystery.

They prepare on the banks of this northern watercourse broad platforms

of sedge, mingled with small twigs and bushes, laid compactly on marshy

places, and without building a carefully arranged nest deposit their

eggs in untold numbers. That keen and scientific observer, the late

Major Kennicott, says he saw on the banks of the Yukon acres of marshy

ground thus covered with the eggs of the canvas-back ducks, in numbers

defying computation. “The region drained by the Upper Yukon is spoken of

by explorers,” says Mr. Charles Hallock, editor of “Forest and Stream,”

“as being a perfect Eden, where flowers bloom, beneficent plants yield

their berries and fruits, majestic trees spread their umbrageous fronds,

and song-birds make the branches vocal. The water of the streams is pure

and pellucid; the blue of the rippled lake is like Geneva’s; their banks

resplendent with verdure, and with grass and shining pebbles.”

At the first approach of winter the augmented millions of birds take

flight for the low latitudes, or their homes in the temperate zone, the

old birds accompanied by the broods which they have hatched in the

solitudes of the far north. Those which have come from the neighborhood

of the Caribbean Sea turn in their flight unerringly in that direction;

those from the South Pacific islands heading as surely for that tropical

region. Only the ptarmigan and the Arctic owl, with a few of the

white-hawk family, remain to brave the winter cold of northern Alaska,

with the hardy Eskimo, the walrus, and the polar bear. The smaller

tribes of birds are well represented here in the summer season, even

including several species of swallows, martins, and sparrows, these tiny

creatures seeming to follow some general bird instinct. Even the

domestic robin is seen as far north as Sitka. Limited scientific

research has recognized and classified one hundred and ninety-two

different kinds of birds which are found in this Territory, a

considerable number of which were unknown to science previous to 1867.

We have said nothing relative to the hair-seals, or sea-lions, of

Alaska, because their importance is comparatively insignificant, having

no commercial value. Nevertheless, they are utilized by the ingenious

natives in various ways; the hides serve as a covering for a certain

class of boats, made with wooden frames, and are also employed for

several domestic purposes. The walrus is found in largest numbers on the

north coast, in the true Arctic region, affording some valuable oil,

together with considerable ivory, in carving which the natives are very

expert. Though the fur-trade of the land is by no means equal to that of

the sea, still its aggregate results are very considerable. It employs

numerous hunters and gives profitable business to many white traders,

nearly all of whom make a permanent home in the Territory. Undoubtedly

the most prolific and valuable fur-yielding district on the mainland is

the valley of the Yukon, where the beaver, marten, several kinds of

bears, with the wolf and fox, afford the best fur. We saw at the

principal store in Wrangel many packages of bearskins prepared for

shipment to San Francisco. These packages would average five hundred

dollars each in value, and had been gathered from those brought in by

the natives during the two weeks intervening between the arrival of the

regular steamers. Single bearskins sell here, according to their

marketable character, for from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars each.

The natives make little or no use of these skins, preferring the woolen

blanket of commerce. The red and cross fox is found everywhere in the

Territory, and its skin is comparatively cheap. It is singular that the

blue fox is found only on the islands of St. Paul, St. George, Attoo,

and Atkha, while the white fox is to be sought only at the far north.

There is also the black fox, which, however, is a great rarity, thought

to be an occasional accident of nature; the skins always bring

extravagant prices from the traders. The black fox is not found in any

special locality, but occurs now and again in any part of the Territory.

The skin of the silver fox is also highly prized, and proves a valuable

peltry to the native hunters, forty dollars each being the usual price

paid by the white traders. Only a few hundred are taken yearly. The

land-otter and the beaver so abound as to make up a large total value

annually. The latest official records show that there has been produced

and shipped from Alaska annually an average of fifty-seven thousand

beaver skins; eighteen thousand land-otter skins; seventy-one thousand

foxes’ skins of the various sorts; and of musk-rats two hundred and

twenty-one thousand. These figures should be largely added to in each

instance (we were told by one official that this aggregate estimate

should be doubled), in order to include the unregistered pelts which are

annually secured by various hunters, both whites and natives, and which

find their way to distant markets through irregular channels, more

especially over the borders of British Columbia.

This fur-trade is open to all, but requires capital, organization, and

persistency to make it profitable. The natives do nearly all of the

hunting and trapping, and will only engage in it, as a rule, to supply

themselves with means to procure certain luxuries from the trader’s

store, such as sugar, tea, and tobacco. We are sorry to add to these

comparative necessities the article of whiskey, which is only too often

furnished illicitly to the eager natives. When these wants are supplied

they idle away their time until stimulated once more by their

necessities to go upon the trail of the fur-bearing animals. Of course

there are some exceptions to this, many of them being steady and willing

workers, but we speak of the average native. There is no fear of the

supply of furs being exhausted under this system of capture; even a

combined and vigorous effort on the part of the hunters could not

accomplish that in many years. Unlike our western Indians, these

Alaskans are a comparatively thrifty race, entirely self-sustaining, and

never require support from the government, notwithstanding idleness is

their besetting sin, as is, indeed, characteristic of uncivilized people

everywhere.

We were told of several of these aborigines who had learned the lesson

of thrift from the whites to such good effect as to have saved sums of

money varying from one to five hundred dollars, which they had deposited

in the Savings Bank of San Francisco, and upon which they drew their

annual interest; an investment, the safety and economy of which they

fully appreciated.

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The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska · 第 11 / 24 章