Cook’s Inlet.—Manufacture of Quass.—Native Piety.—Mummies.—The North
Coast.—Geographical Position.—Shallowness of Behring Sea.—Alaskan
Peninsula.—Size of Alaska.—A “Terra Incognita.”—Reasons why Russia
sold it to our Government.—The Price Comparatively Nothing.—Rental of
the Seal Islands.—Mr. Seward’s Purchase turns out to be a Bonanza.
Cook’s Inlet, which lies to the north of the island of Kodiak, was
esteemed by the Russians to be the pleasantest portion of Alaska in the
summer season, with its bright skies and well wooded shores. It
stretches far inland in a northeasterly direction, and is quite out of
the region of the fogs which prevail on the coast. Gold has been
profitably mined for some years on the Kakny River, which empties into
the eastern side of this extensive inlet, and good coal abounds in the
neighborhood.
When the Russians first came to this region they taught the natives to
make what they called quass, a cooling and comparatively harmless acid
drink. To produce this article rye meal is mixed with water, in certain
proportions, and allowed to remain in a cask until fermentation takes
place and it is sour and lively enough to draw. Latterly the natives
have learned to add sugar, and thus to produce a fermented liquor of an
intoxicating nature. Progress in this direction has been made until now
they mix a certain portion each of sugar, flour, dried apples, and a few
hops, when they can be obtained, putting the whole into a close barrel
or cask. When fermentation has taken place and the mixture has worked
itself clear, it forms a strong intoxicant. This article proves the
cause of a thousand ills among the aborigines. In each of the scattered
villages among the islands there is sure to be seen a few broken-down
victims of this active poison, who have impoverished their families and
wrecked their own constitutions.
In each of these Aleutian islands there is found a Russian-Greek chapel
and a regularly appointed priest, this religion being preferred by the
natives to that of all other sects, captivating their simple minds by
its gorgeous show and its mystery. Their honest devotion, however, to a
religion which they cannot comprehend may be reasonably questioned.
There can be no doubt that their idolatrous customs and original
pantheism have been almost entirely abandoned,—ceremonies which were
elaborately described by the early voyagers, and which involved strange
incantations and even human sacrifices. Intercourse with the whites has
at least had the effect of abolishing the most objectionable features of
their early superstitions. The bishop of the organization is a Russian
and resides in San Francisco, whence he controls these parishes, which
he occasionally visits, being amply supplied with pecuniary means by the
home government at St. Petersburg. The piety of these Aleuts is very
pronounced, so far as all outward observances go, and we were told that
they never sit down to their meals without briefly asking a blessing
upon their rude repast. Golovin, a Russian who lived many years among
the Aleuts, says: “Their attention during religious services is
unflinching, though they do not understand a word of the whole rite.”
The same author goes on to say, “During my ten years’ stay in Unalaska
not a single case of murder happened among the Aleutians. Not an attempt
to kill, nor fight, nor even a considerable dispute, although I often
saw them drunk.” Hunting is the principal source of their support, and
to get the sea-otter they often make long, exposed trips in their
undecked boats, and experience many trying hardships. When they return
to their homes at the close of the season, having been nearly always
reasonably successful, the quass barrel is brought into requisition, and
its contents partaken of to excess, drunken orgies following with all
their attendant evils.
The Aleuts are a very honest people, quite unlike the Eskimos of the
north, who are natural pilferers. They are also possessed of a certain
stoicism which compels admiration. When they are sick or suffering great
pain they utter no complaint, and outwardly are always content, no
matter what the future may send as their lot. An Aleut is never known to
sigh, groan, or shed a tear. If he feels it, he never evinces immoderate
joy, but is always quiet, moderate, and grave. They are in a great
degree fatalists, and believe that which is decreed by the power in the
sky will come to pass, whatever they may do to prevent it. It is Kismet.
It is an interesting fact that before these islands were discovered by
the Russians, the natives were in the practice of preserving their dead
in the form of mummies, and this had probably been their habit for
centuries. Satisfactory evidence is afforded by what is found upon the
islands to show that they have been the residence of populous tribes for
over two thousand years. Mr. Dall, in his indefatigable researches, was
able to secure several examples of the mummified dead on these outlying
islands, eleven of which came from one cave on the south end of
Unalaska, but none were ever found or known to have existed upon the
mainland. This fact is looked upon by ethnologists as an important
addition to our knowledge of the prehistoric condition of these peculiar
people of the far Northwest, now part and parcel of our widespread
population. The mummies of Peru and those of Alaska are now arranged
side by side in the cases of the Smithsonian Institution at Washington,
and what is very singular is that they seem, in their general
appearance, to be almost identical.
The interior of Alaska and its more Arctic regions north of the valley
of the Yukon remain still only partially explored. No more is actually
known of it than of Central Africa. It would be anything but a pleasure
excursion, at present, to penetrate the extreme northern harbors of the
extended coast line, which are mostly uninhabited, and which are
tempest-swept for a large portion of the year. Northwestern Alaska
shares with northeastern Siberia the possession of the coldest winter
climate in the world, but we must remember it is not always winter, and
thousands of Eskimos here find life quite tolerable. Beyond 70° of north
latitude no trees are to be found; even shrubs have disappeared, giving
place to a scanty growth of lichens and creeping wood-plants. Even here,
however, Nature asserts her prerogative and brings forth a few bright
flowers and blooming grasses in the brief midsummer days. Point Barrow
is what might be termed, in common parlance, “the jumping-off place;”
the beginning of that mysterious ocean where the compass needle, which
lies horizontal at the equator, attracted by an unexplained influence
dips and points straight downward. There is no lack of animal life in
this frozen region, the sea is as full as in the tropics; the whale here
finds its birthplace, and herring issue forth in countless columns to
seek more southern seas, while the air is darkened by innumerable flocks
of sea-fowl. The wolves, the polar bear, and other fur-bearing animals
afford meat and clothing to the Eskimo to an extent far exceeding his
requirements. Only thoroughly organized expeditions and a few
adventurous whalers attempt to pass Point Barrow, a long reach of low
barren land, and the most northerly portion of the Territory, which
projects itself into the great Arctic Ocean very much after the fashion
of the North Cape of Norway, in the eastern hemisphere, at latitude 71°
10′.
There is a village at Point Barrow containing about a hundred and fifty
people, living in houses partly under ground as a protection against the
cold. The roofs are supported by rafters of whale jaws and ribs. This
people we call the Eskimo proper. They have a severe climate to contend
with, but are abundantly supplied with food and oil from the sea. They
have a strange aversion to salt, and any food thus cooked or preserved
they will not eat unless driven to it by dire necessity. Our government
is just about to erect a comfortable structure here as a sort of refuge
to shipwrecked navigators of the Polar Sea, this being the verge of
those unknown waters which guard the secret of the Pole.
A peninsula makes out from near the centre of the western coast of
Alaska, the terminus of which is the nearest point between this
continent and Asia, the two being separated by Behring Strait, where the
East and the West confront each other, and where the extreme western
boundary of our country is the line which separates Asia from America.
This is called. Cape Prince of Wales, a rocky point rising in its
highest peak to twenty-five hundred feet above the sea. Here is a
village of Eskimos numbering between three and four hundred souls, who
do not bear a good reputation. They are skilled as fishermen on the sea
and hunters on the land, to which it may be added that they are
professional smugglers. Here it is quite possible in clear weather to
see the Asiatic coast—Eastern Siberia—from United States soil, the
distance across the strait being about forty miles. There are two
islands in the strait, known as the Diomedes, almost in a direct line
between Cape Prince of Wales on one side and East Cape on the other;
stepping-stones, as it were, between the two continents. Occasional
intercourse between the natives of the two opposite shores is maintained
to-day by means of sailing craft, and doubtless has been going on for
hundreds, if not for thousands, of years. So moderate are the seas, and
so calm the weather hereabouts at some portions of the year, that the
passage is made in open or undecked boats.
On King’s Island, fifty miles south of Cape Prince of Wales, there is a
tribe of veritable cave-dwellers. The island is a great mass of rock,
with almost perpendicular sides rising seven hundred feet above the sea.
On one side, where the angle is nearly forty-five degrees, the Eskimos
have excavated homes in the rock, about half a hundred of which are two
hundred feet above the sea. These people openly defy the revenue laws,
and are the known distributers of contraband articles, especially of
intoxicants.
Behring Sea, where it washes the shores of Alaska, from Norton Sound to
Bristol Bay, is slowly growing more shallow, having but fifteen fathoms
depth, in some places, forty miles off the west shore of the mainland,
and growing shallower as it approaches the continent. This has caused a
speculative writer to suggest the possible joining of Asia and America,
at some future period, by the gradual filling up of Behring Sea. The
reason of this is obvious. The Yukon River brings down from its course
of two thousand miles and more many hundred tons of soil daily which it
deposits along the coast, while the Kuskoquin River, second only to the
Yukon in volume, is engaged in the same work about a hundred and fifty
miles south of where the greater river empties into Norton Sound. These
large water-ways carry, like the Mississippi, immense deposits to the
sea, and the process has been going on night and day for no human being
knows how long.
One hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of this Kuskoquin River the
Moravians of Bethlehem, Pa., support a missionary establishment. The
station is named Bethel, one of the most isolated points in Alaska,
receiving a mail but once a year! Truly, nothing save fulfilling a
conscientious sense of duty could compensate intelligent people for thus
separating themselves from home and friends.
We have spoken of a peninsula making out at the north towards Asia, but
this comparatively insignificant projection from the mainland should not
be permitted to confuse the reader’s mind as regards the Alaska
Peninsula, properly so called, which extends from the southern part of
the Territory, ending in the islands which form the Aleutian group. This
peninsula is undoubtedly one of the most remarkable in the world, being
fifty miles broad and three hundred long, literally piled with
mountains, some of which are but partially extinct volcanoes, emitting
at the present time more or less smoke and ashes, sometimes accompanied
by blazing gases discernible at night far away over land and sea,
appearing to the midnight watch on board ship like a raging
conflagration in the heavens. The principal islands of the group of
which we have been speaking, and which stretch far away from the
southwestern corner of the Alaska Peninsula towards Kamschatka, as
though extending a cordial hand from the Occident to the Orient, are as
follows: Unimak, with a volcanic peak nine thousand feet high; Unalaska,
whose peak is five thousand seven hundred feet high; Atka, with a height
of four thousand eight hundred feet; Kyska, which is crowned by an
elevation of three thousand seven hundred feet; and Attoo, whose tallest
peak is over three thousand feet. This island is just about four hundred
miles from the Asiatic coast. Unimak has a large lake of sulphur within
its borders, and all of these islands have more or less hot springs.
From those in Unalaska loud reports issue at intervals, like the boom of
cannon, recalling our late similar experience in the Yellowstone Park.
Alaska constitutes the northwestern portion of the American continent,
and has a coast line exceeding eleven thousand miles. The extreme length
of the Territory, north and south, is eleven hundred miles, and its
breadth is eight hundred. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic
Ocean, on the east by British Columbia, on the south by the Pacific
Ocean, and on the west by Behring Strait and the North Pacific. Our
geographies and encyclopædias help us to little more than the boundaries
of this great Territory, which contains nearly six hundred thousand
square miles. The latest published estimates give the aggregate number
of square miles as nineteen thousand less than the amount we have named,
but Governor Swineford and other residents of the Territory believe it
to be an underestimate. As there is no actual survey extant, the figures
given can only be a reasonable approximation to the true number. The
boundary dividing Alaska and British Columbia was settled by treaty
between England and Russia in 1825, and the same line is recognized
to-day as separating our possessions in this quarter from those of Great
Britain. Alaska is as large as all of the New England and Middle States,
with Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan, Kentucky, and
Tennessee combined. So far as size is concerned, the Territory is,
therefore, an empire in itself, being equal in area to seventy-one
States like Massachusetts, and containing as many square miles as
England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, France, Spain, Portugal, Switzerland,
and Belgium united. It has been estimated by competent judges that, with
its islands, it has a coast line equal to the circumference of the
globe. Very few of our people, even among the educated class, have an
adequate idea of the immensity of this northwestern Territory, two
thirds of which abounds in available resources, only awaiting
development. Were Alaska situated on our Atlantic coast it would extend
from Maine to Florida.
Miss Kate Field, in a comprehensive article already quoted from,
published in the “North American Review,” justly censuring Congress for
its supineness and ignorance in relation to Alaska, says: “American
citizens, living comfortably on the Atlantic seaboard, knowing their own
wants and dictating terms to their submissive representatives, take
little heed of those new additions to the United States which are
destined to be the crowning glory of the Republic. When a nation is so
big as to render portions of it a _terra incognita_ to those who make
the laws, there’s something rotten this side of Denmark!... The march of
empire goes on in spite of human fallibility, and now the land of the
midnight sun knocks at the door of Congress. She is twenty-three years
old, and asks to be treated as though she were of age. The big-wigs at
Washington rub their eyes, put on their spectacles, and wonder what this
Hyperborean hubbub means?”
In examining the geographical characteristics of Alaska, we observe a
peculiarity in its outlying islands which is also found in the
construction of the continents. They all have east of their southern
points series of islands. Thus, Alaska has the Sitkan or Alexander
group; Africa has Madagascar; Asia has Ceylon; Australia has the two
large islands of New Zealand; and America has the Falkland Islands.
Alaska is the great island region of the United States.
It is not for us to enter into the brief history of the country, that
is, brief as known to us, but it is well to fix in the mind the fact
that Russia’s title was derived from prior discovery. Behring first saw
the continent in this region of North America, July 18, 1741, in
latitude 58° 28′, and two days later anchored in a bay near a point
which he called St. Elias, a name which he also gave to the great
mountain overshadowing the neighboring shore. It is sufficient for our
purpose that we know this Territory was purchased from Russia by our
government in 1867, after that country had occupied it a little more
than a century, paying therefor the sum of seven million two hundred
thousand dollars. It has been truly said that it was practically giving
away the country on the part of Russia; but doubtless diplomatic reasons
influenced the Tzar, who would much rather have presented it outright to
the United States than to have it, by conquest or otherwise, fall into
the hands of England, who was known to crave its possession as connected
with her Pacific coast interests. So when the first Napoleon sold us
Louisiana, he did so not alone in consideration of the money, which was
doubtless much needed by his treasury,—amounting to sixty million
francs,—but because he was not willing to leave this distant territory a
prey to Great Britain in the event of hostilities between France and
England, which were then imminent. He was glad, as he remarked, “to
establish forever the power of the United States, and give to England a
maritime rival destined to humble her pride;” adding, “It is for the
interest of France that America should be great and strong.”
Alaska was a white elephant to Russia, but in our hands it has already
proved a bonanza.
Any one can now see that the sum named as an equivalent for this
colossal territory was a trifling value to place upon it, when its great
extent is realized, together with its vast mineral wealth and
inexhaustible supply of fish, fur, and timber. It is in fact the only
great game and fur preserve left in the Western world, inviting the
trapper and hunter to reap a rich return for their industry. Nowhere
else on this continent do wild animals more abound, or enjoy such
immunity from harm, as is afforded them in the dense, half-impenetrable
forests of Alaska, where Nature herself becomes our gamekeeper,
preventing the too rapid extinction of animal life.
From a lease in favor of the Alaska Commercial Company of San Francisco,
giving them the exclusive right to take seals on the Prybiloff group of
islands, our government has received four and one half per cent.
interest, annually, during the last nineteen years, on the entire
purchase-money paid to Russia. This same company, whose term is just
about to expire, would gladly renew the lease with our government at a
considerable advance upon the amount heretofore paid; but it is an open
question whether the continuance of this great monopoly is for the best
interest of Alaska, when considered in all its bearings.
Undoubtedly this contract is a real benefit in one way. The company,
through its agents, will take good care to see that no outside interest
interferes with their rights so as to permit any indiscriminate
slaughter of the seals. Whereas, were the capture of these peltries not
guarded, an end of the product would be brought about in a very short
time. There is a manifest injustice in all monopolies, as we view them;
but of two evils, in this instance we should perhaps feel inclined to
choose the least by selling the privilege to a responsible company. It
must be admitted that the high-handed course of the present company,
their arbitrary assumptions, and their treatment of the natives
generally, are represented in a very bad light by many residents of
Alaska; but little else, however, could be expected of so great a
monopoly. One thing is certain, and that is, the company has realized a
great fortune by its contract.
There were plenty of people who ridiculed the acquisition of this
Territory at the time when it was brought about; but there were also
some far-seeing statesmen, influenced by no selfish motives, who felt
very different about the matter, among whom was Mr. Seward, then
Secretary of State, and to whom the credit is mostly due for
consummating the important purchase. That able diplomat considered the
transaction to have been the most important act of his official career,
and put himself on record to that effect. He remarked, in discussing the
matter at a public meeting, “It may take two generations before the
purchase is properly appreciated.” Mr. Seward was right. It was a
crowning glory for him to have added a new empire to his country’s
domain, though in 1867 its great commercial importance was hardly known,
even to himself. Its valuable gold deposits were then thought possibly
to exist; but subsequent developments have already far outstripped
anticipations in that direction, and the large yield of the precious
metal is annually increasing.
“I thought when Alaska was purchased, in 1867,” says that keen observer
and clever writer, Captain John Codman, “that it might answer for a
great skating park; but now I know, from merely coasting along its
southeastern shores and landing at a few of its outposts, that the seven
million two hundred thousand dollars paid for it is less than the
interest of the sum that it is worth. A great part of it is yet
unexplored, for its whole area is three times greater than the republic
of France; but what has been discovered is invaluable, and what has not
been discovered may be valuable beyond calculation.”
So little did we, as a people, appreciate the new acquisition that it
was almost entirely neglected for seventeen years. Not until 1884 was it
granted a territorial government, Hon. John H. Kinkead, ex-governor of
Nevada, being the first governor appointed for Alaska. “Twenty years
ago,” says Governor Swineford of Alaska, “I made political capital out
of Seward’s purchase. I called it the refrigerator of the United States.
I heaped obloquy on William H. Seward. I shall spend the rest of my life
in making reparation to what I have so foully wronged.” Such has been
the general testimony of all who speak from personal observation, and
uninfluenced by sinister motives.
------------------------------------------------------------------------