The Great Yellowstone Lake.—Myriads of Birds.—Solitary Beauty of the
Lake.—The Flora of the Park.—Devastating Fires.—Wild Animals.—Grand
Volcanic Centre.—Mountain Climbing and Wonderful Views.—A Story of
Discovery.—Government Exploration of the Reservation.—Governor
Washburn’s Expedition.—“For the Benefit of the People at Large
Forever.”
In the southern section of the Yellowstone Park, near its longitudinal
centre, is one of the most beautiful yet lonely lakes imaginable, framed
in a margin of sparkling sands, and surrounded by Alpine heights. One
stretch of the shore about five miles long is called Diamond Beach; the
volcanic material of which it is formed, being entirely obsidian,
reflects the sun’s rays like brilliant gems, while the beach is caressed
by wavelets scarcely less bright. Surrounded by many wonders, the lake
is itself a great surprise, lying in the bosom of rock-ribbed mountains
at an elevation of nearly eight thousand feet above the sea. We know of
but one other large body of water on the globe at any such height,
namely, Lake Titicaca, in South America, famous in Peruvian history. The
Yellowstone Lake is always of crystal clearness, and is fed from the
eternal snow that piles itself up on the lofty peaks which surround it,
and which are sharply outlined in all directions against the blue of the
sky. The outlet of the lake is the Yellowstone River, which issues from
the northern end, while the Upper Yellowstone runs into it on the
opposite side. The lake is twenty-two miles long by fifteen in width,
and has an area of a hundred and fifty square miles. Its greatest depth
is three hundred feet, and it is overstocked with trout, many of which,
unfortunately, are infested by a parasitic worm which renders them unfit
for food; but this is not the case with all the fish; a large portion
are good and wholesome. Geologists find sufficient evidence to satisfy
them that this lake, now narrowed to the dimensions just given, in
ancient times covered two thirds of the present Park. Aquatic birds
abound upon its broad surface, and build their myriad nests on its green
islands. They are of many species, comprising geese, cranes, swans,
snipe, mallards, teal, curlew, plover, and ducks of various sorts.
Pelicans swim about in long white lines; herons, in their delicate
ash-colored plumage, stand idly on the shore, while ermine-feathered
gulls fill the air with their loud and tuneless serenade. Hawks,
kingfishers, and ravens also abound on the shore, the first-named
watching other birds as they rise from the water with fish, which they
make it their business, freebooter-like, to rob them of. The lake has
many thickly-wooded islands, and there are several long, pine-covered
promontories which stretch out in a graceful manner from the mainland,
the whole forming a grand primeval solitude. Now and again a solitary
eagle, on broad-spread pinions, sails away from the top of some lofty
pine on the mountain side to the deep green seclusion of the nearest
island. Even the presence of this proud and austere bird only serves to
emphasize the grave and solemn loneliness which rests upon the locality.
It is a charming feature of this placid lake which causes it to gather
into its bosom a picture of all things far and near: the clouds, “those
playful fancies of the mighty sky,” seem to float upon its surface; the
blue of the heavens is reflected there; the tall peaks and wooded slopes
mirror themselves in its depths. As we look upon the lake through the
purple haze of sunset, a picture is presented of surpassing loveliness,
tinted with blue and golden hues, which creep lovingly closer and closer
about the quiet isles; while there come from out the forest resinous
pine odors, delightfully soothing to the senses, accompanied by the soft
music of swaying branches, and the low drone of insect life.
To linger over such a scene is a joy and an inspiration to the
experienced traveler, who, in wandering hither and thither upon the
globe, places an occasional white stone at certain points to which
memory turns with never-failing pleasure. Thus he recalls a sunrise over
the silvery peaks of the grand Himalayan range; a thrilling view from
the Mosque of Mahomet Ali at Cairo, localizing Biblical story; or a
summer sunset-glow on the glassy mirror of the Yellowstone Lake.
Along the mountain side, east of the lake, are ancient terraces,
indented shorelines, and other evidences which clearly prove that, at no
very remote geological period, the surface of this grand sheet of water
was at least five or six hundred feet higher than it is at the present
time. Nearly two hundred square miles of the Park are still covered by
lakes.
As to the flora of the Yellowstone Park, seventy-five per cent. of the
whole area seems to be covered by dense forests, the black fir being the
most plentiful, often growing to three or four feet in diameter and a
hundred and fifty feet in height. The white pine is the most graceful
among the indigenous trees, and is always remarkable for its stately
symmetrical beauty. The thick groves of balsam fir are particularly fine
and fragrant, while the dwarf maples and willows are charming features
as they mingle abundantly with larger and more pretentious trees. Wild
flowers, Nature’s bright mosaics, are found in great variety during the
summer, though there is rarely a night in this neighborhood without
frost, while the winters are truly arctic in temperature. The larkspur,
columbine, harebell, lupin, and primrose abound, with occasional daisies
and other blossoms. Yellow water-lilies, anchored by their fragile
stems, profusely sprinkle and beautify the surface of the shady pools.
Exquisite ferns, lichens, and velvety mosses delight the appreciative
eye in many a sylvan nook which is only invaded by squirrels and
song-birds.
Here, as in the valley of the Yosemite, it is melancholy to see the
track of devastating fires caused by the half-extinguished blaze left by
careless camping parties. It is difficult to realize how intelligent
people can be so wickedly reckless as to cause such destruction. Many a
forest monarch stands bereft of every limb by the devouring flames, and
large areas are entirely denuded of growth other than the shrubbery
which springs up quickly after a sweeping fire in the woods, as though
Nature desired to cover from sight the devastating footsteps of the Fire
King. The grasses grow luxuriantly, especially alpine, timothy, and
Kentucky blue grass.
There are many wild animals in the Park, such as elk, deer, antelope,
big-horn sheep, foxes, buffalo, and what is called the California lion,
a small but rather dangerous animal for the hunter to encounter. The
buffalo is rarely seen in the West, and it is said is now only to be
found wild in this Park. The streams and creeks also swarm with otter,
beaver, and mink. These animals are all protected by law, visitors being
only permitted to shoot such birds as they can cook and eat in their
camps, together with any species of bear they may chance to fall in
with; and there are several kinds of the latter animal to be found in
the hills. At least this has been the case until lately; but stricter
rules have been found necessary, and no visitors are now permitted to
take firearms with them while remaining in the Park. The purpose of the
government is to strictly preserve the game, the effect of which has
already been to render the animals gathered here less shy of human
approach, and to greatly increase their number.
So abundant are the evidences of grand volcanic action throughout the
lake basin that it has been looked upon by scientists as the remains or
centre of one enormous crater forty miles across! Dr. Hayden, the
profound geologist, who was sent professionally by the government to
report upon the Park, declares it to have been the former scene of
volcanic activity as great as that of any part of this planet, a
conclusion which the observer of to-day is quite ready to admit,
inasmuch as the subsidence has yet left enough of the original forces to
demonstrate the sleeping power which still lurks restlessly beneath the
soil. We wonder, standing amid such remarkable surroundings, how many
centuries have passed since the valley assumed its present shape.
Everything is indicative of high antiquity, and it is probably rather
thousands than hundreds of years since this volcanic centre was at its
maximum power and activity. The valley has been partly excavated out of
ancient crystalline rocks, partly out of later stratified formations,
and partly from masses of lava that were poured forth during a
succession of ages which make up the different epochs of the earth’s
long history.
The lowest level of the Park is about six thousand feet above the sea,
and the average elevation, independent of mountains, is much over this
estimate. It is very properly designated as the summit of the continent,
and gives rise to three of the largest rivers in North America, namely:
on the north side are the sources of the Yellowstone; on the west, three
of the forks of the Missouri; and on the southwest are the sources of
the Snake River, which flows into the Columbia, and thence to the
distant Pacific Ocean.
If possible, before leaving the neighborhood, the visitor should ascend
Mount Washburn, the highest point of observation within the great
reservation, a feat easily accomplished on horseback. Such an excursion
is particularly desirable since all the scenery of the Park is
circumscribed while we are at the level of its springs, geysers, and
lakes. The grand view from this elevation will repay all the time and
effort expended in its accomplishment. Its height above the base is five
thousand feet, its height above the sea five thousand more. A clear day
is absolutely necessary for the proper enjoyment of such an excursion,
in order to bring out fairly the panorama of forests, lakes, prairies,
and mountains, decked by the golden glory of the sunshine. In some
directions the vision reaches a hundred and fifty miles through space.
Here, on the summit of Mount Washburn, we virtually stand upon the apex
of the North American continent, if we except one or two of the
sky-reaching peaks of the Territory of Alaska.
As we face the north, just before us lies the valley of the Yellowstone,
and in the distance, looming far above its surroundings, is the tall
Emigrant Peak. To the eastward Index and Pilot peaks pierce the clouds,
beyond which stretches away the Big Horn Range. In the west the summits
of the Gallatin Mountains follow one another northward, while trending
in the same direction, but farther towards the horizon, is the lofty
Madison Range. We gaze until bewildered by peak after peak, mountain
beyond mountain, range upon range, mingling with each other, all
combining to form a glorious view embodying the indescribably grand
characteristics of the Rocky Mountain system, the equal of which we may
never again behold.
The tall range of mountains which girdle the Park are snow-covered all
the year round, frigid, giant sentinels, which long proved a complete
barrier to organized exploration, forming an amphitheatre of sublime and
lonely scenery. The story of the discovery of this Wonderland is briefly
told as follows: It seems that a gold-seeking prospector named Coulter
made his way with infinite perseverance into the region in 1807, and
after many hair-breadth escapes from Indians, wild beasts, poisonous
waters, and starvation, finally succeeded in rejoining his comrades,
whom he entertained with stories of what he had seen, which seemed to
them so incredible that they believed him to be crazy. Afterwards, first
one and then another adventurer found his way hither, and though each of
them corroborated Coulter’s story, they were by no means fully credited.
But public attention and curiosity were thus aroused, leading the
government to send Professor Hayden and a small exploring party to
carefully examine the region. This enterprise not only corroborated the
stories already made public, but greatly added to their volume and
amazing detail.
It was found that the representations of Coulter and those who followed
him, so far from exaggerating the wonders of the Yellowstone, in reality
fell far below the truth.
During the year 1870 Governor Washburn, accompanied by a small body of
United States cavalry, entered the Park by the valley of the
Yellowstone, and thoroughly explored the cañons, the shores of the great
lake, and the geyser region of Firehole River, together with the various
interesting localities of which we have spoken. On returning he declared
that the party had seen the greatest marvels to be found upon this
continent, and that there was no other spot on the globe where there
were crowded together so many natural wonders, combined with so much
beauty and grandeur.
Finally Congress, foreseeing that the greed of speculators would lead
them to monopolize this Wonderland for mercenary purposes, promptly took
action in the matter, setting the region aside as a National Park and
Reservation, for the benefit of the people at large forever, retaining
the fee and control of the same in the name of the government.
Not many persons have ever attempted to traverse the Park in the winter
season, but it has been done by a few hardy and adventurous people, who
nearly perished in the attempt. Such individuals have reported that the
raging snow-storms and blizzards which they encountered were on a scale
quite equal to the other demonstrations and natural curiosities of the
place. The trees in their neighborhood were beautifully gemmed with the
frozen vapor of the geysers, and the heated springs seemed doubly active
by the contrast between their temperature and that of the freezing
atmosphere. It was only by camping at night upon the very brink of these
boiling waters that life could be sustained, with the atmosphere at
forty degrees below zero.
One who comes hither with preconceived ideas of the peculiar sights to
be met with is sure to be disappointed, not in their want of
strangeness, for the Park is overstocked with curiosities having no
counterpart elsewhere, but the features are so thoroughly unique that
his anticipations are transcended both in the quality and the quantity
of the food for wonder which is spread out before him on every side.
------------------------------------------------------------------------