HEAVITREE AND LONDON
(1845-1858)
SUCCESS OF THE _HANDBOOK_--_GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN_--ILLNESS AND
DEATH OF HIS WIFE--MARRIAGE WITH MISS MARY MOLESWORTH--TELBIN’S
“DIORAMA OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON’S CAMPAIGNS”--FRANCIS CLARE FORD
AND THE DIPLOMATIC SERVICE--DEATH OF SIR WILLIAM
MOLESWORTH--FAILING HEALTH--MARRIAGE OF CLARE FORD--LAST ARTICLE IN
THE _QUARTERLY REVIEW_, AND LAST LETTER TO ADDINGTON--DEATH AT
HEAVITREE, AUGUST 31ST, 1858.
“Since July” (Ford writes to Don Pascual Gayangos at Madrid,
November 27th, 1845) “I have been wandering with my son in Germany,
and have visited those mighty rivers, the Rhine and the Danube, and
beheld the temples and frescoes of Munich.”
He returned to England to find that the _Handbook_ was succeeding beyond
his own or his publisher’s expectations. In spite of its price, print,
and double columns, 1389 copies were sold in three months, and a second
edition was already talked of. The book had, in fact, created a
sensation. Under its unpretending title it gave a description of Spain,
past and present, which no other man living, foreigner or native, could
have produced. Men who knew the country intimately, such as Lord
Clarendon, Prescott, George Borrow, and Washington Irving, were as
enthusiastic as they were unanimous in its praise. “Surely never was
there,” wrote Prescott, “since Humboldt’s book on Mexico, such an amount
of information, historical, critical, topographical, brought together in
one view, and that in the unpretending form of a _Manuel du Voyageur_.”
Lockhart saw in the _Handbook_ “the work of a most superior
workman,--master of more tools than almost anyone in these days pretends
to handle,” and he found in its pages “the combination of keen
observation and sterling sense with learning _à la_ Burton and
pleasantry _à la_ Montaigne.” The book, in fact, took, and still holds,
its place among the best books of travel in the English language. Few
writers even now can touch on Spanish subjects without owing or
acknowledging a deep debt to Ford. Nor was his work merely a guidebook
to a particular country; it is a guidebook to all travellers, wherever
they might be, from its infectious capacity for enjoyment and the
richness and variety of its interests.
The letter to Gayangos, quoted above, was written on Ford’s way back
from Oxford, where that learned Spaniard had once hoped to obtain a
Professorship.
I am but just returned from Oxford, where I spent ten days. The
minds of the young men are perplexed with _Puseyismo y la Santa
Iglesia Catholica y Romana_. That evil, and a tremendous habit of
smoking cigars, seem to be the _features_ of the place, and perplex
the tutors and heads of colleges.
Among the Addington correspondence is a letter, written November 25th,
1845, from Oxford itself:--
OXFORD, _Nov. 25, /45_.
I propose leaving this learned city on Monday, and am about to
spend a week in Park Street, to settle some law matters for my
mother. This is the moment which is big with fate for the
Montanches Porkers, and I am about to write to Don Juan to forward
to me my annual adventure of _Jamones_. How do you feel disposed?
This Oxford is indeed changed since my time. The youths drink toast
and water and fast on Wednesdays and Fridays. They have somewhat of
a priggish, macerated look; _der Puseyismus_ has spread far among
the rising generation of fellows of colleges. Pusey, the
arch-heretic, has indeed the true Jesuit look. I sang an anthem out
of his book and _with_ him last Sunday, having been placed in a
stall at Christ Church between him and Gaisford of Greek fame; but
I have not yet joined Rome, being still rather of the school of
the æsthetics than of the ascetics.
Literary work was resumed. A second edition of the _Handbook_ had to be
prepared. Articles were written for the _Quarterly Review_ on such
varied subjects as “Spanish Architecture,” “Spanish Painting,” “The
Horse’s Foot,” “Spanish Lady’s Love.” In 1846 appeared his _Gatherings
from Spain_, consisting partly of the introductory essays to the
_Handbook_, partly of new material. The book was brought out at
lightning speed.
I am glad (he writes to Addington, December 1846) that _Gatherings_
have been deemed worthy of your perusal. The first part has indeed
been knocked off _currente calamo_, and almost without my ever
seeing the pages in revise. They were written against time,
composed, printed, and type distributed in three weeks. This is not
fair on the Author, as slips in style must inevitably occur. I have
almost written a new book as to half of it.
The success of the book was great.
The _Gatherings_ have taken wonderfully. All the critics praise
without exception. So I have sacked £210 by two months’ work, and
not damaged my literary reputation.
Lockhart congratulated him warmly on the achievement. “You may,” he says
(January 5th, 1847), “live fifty years without turning out any more
delightful thing” than the _Gatherings_. Tho’ I had read the _Handbook_
pretty well, I found the full zest of novelty in these Essays, and such,
I think, is the nearly universal feeling. Fergusson was at Lord
Clarendon’s in Herts at Christmas. Lord Clarendon said that he had had a
Spanish party a few days before--all highly pleased. One said it would
take, to get together the knowledge of this book, four of the most
accomplished of Spaniards. ‘Ah!’ said another, ‘but where could you get
_one_ that could put it all together in a form so readable?’ I forget
their names; but they were men of mark.”
From 1846 onwards Mrs. Ford’s health became a cause of ever-increasing
anxiety. Changes of climate were tried without permanent benefit. For
months together Ford was separated from his library. He still wrote
articles for the _Quarterly Review_, but he attempted no larger work.
Addington had apparently urged him to write a life of the Duke of Alva.
His answer shows that he felt that a different standard of historical
writing was forming, and that he had neither the youth nor the freedom
from other duties to satisfy the new canons of criticism.
As for Alva (he writes, December 14th, 1848), I imagine that _iron
Duke_ will form a prominent figure in Prescott’s _Philip II._, on
which he is hard at work. To write a _new_ and _real_ history,
State-paper offices, archives, and family documents must be
consulted all over the world. Neither eyes nor domestic businesses
permit a sufficient lucid interval. It is something for a man who
has idled away the best part of life to have put forth two red
tomes, and be acknowledged as competent. _Claudite jam rivos pueri,
sat prata biberunt._
Mrs. Ford died January 23rd, 1849. Six months later his mother, Lady
Ford, died at the age of eighty-two (July 13th, 1849). Business crowded
upon him, so that he describes himself as “hung, drawn, and quartered by
attorneys.” Solitary, depressed in spirits, worried by executorships and
trusteeships, he wrote nothing, and went nowhere. But gradually his life
resumed its usual course, though he made London, not Heavitree, his
home. His pen was once more busy. The marriage of his two elder
daughters interested and excited him.
“Great events” (he writes to Addington from 123, Park Street,
December 1850) “have taken place here. My humble dwelling has
become a perfect temple of Hymen. Cupid scatters orange blossoms
_plenis manibus_. _Both_ my girls are going to be married.
Georgy,[51]--you know,--to _Mowbray_, son of our old friend, Henry
Northcote; Minnie[52] to Edmund Tyrwhitt, next brother to Sir
Henry, and cousin
[Illustration:
R.R.Reinagle R.A.S. Pinx Emery Walker Ph Sc.
Lady Ford
b.1767 d.1949]
to my little Meta. So I shall be left, high and dry, to console
myself with _Jamones y seco_. Not but what a lady told me yesterday
that she heard as positive that _I_ was booked also. The ardent
imaginations of the best half of creation rush at conclusions, and
underrate the difficulties of fifty-four. After this, let no man
despair. Instead of making love, I have been pursuing a more
becoming task of writing articles.”
In the summer of 1851, Ford married Mary, only daughter of Sir Arscott
Ourry Molesworth, Bart., of Pencarrow, near Bodmin, sister of Sir
William Molesworth, who had succeeded his father as eighth Baronet in
1823, and was at this time, and to the date of his death (1845-October
1855), M.P. for Southwark. Politically Ford was little in sympathy with
his brother-in-law, who was an advanced Liberal, and for many years the
leader of the “Philosophical Radicals.” Writing to the Dowager Lady
Molesworth, August 18th, 1851, Ford says:--
The pen seems to have passed from the fingers of the late literary
Mr. Ford into those of Mrs. Ford. She is now with her nose in her
blotting-book, diligently, dutifully, and no doubt delicately
inditing to you. _I_ generally leave her to the monopoly of the
inkstand, and take refuge in my paint-box, having begun a series of
Spanish views to decorate her room, in the hopes of keeping her
out of Spain by bringing the Peninsula to Park Street.
Meanwhile we rub on pleasantly and much enjoy the repose of London
“out of town.” We vary existence by suburban trips of an approved
cockney and connubial character. One day we steam down to
Greenwich, champagne and whitebait; another, we float down the
beautiful Thames at Twickenham, to the disturbance of swans and
punters.
You will have heard from Mary of all our sayings and doings.
Nothing could be kinder or more hospitable than Miss Molesworth[53]
was. She is a very superior and a right honest woman. We
fraternised and sisterised greatly. I suppose I have some old
hankering and a predilection for the name of “Miss Molesworth.”
Assuredly we shall repeat our visit, which our hostess so
repeatedly and really pressed.
The lady of the Lodge gave me lessons in the cultivation and
concoction of flax, which she conducts with great profit, and I
hope I may do no worse when an _Irish_ proprietor. I shall grow a
small plot of hemp for Cardinals and Co. By the way, what an
excellent politician Miss M. is!
In the spring of 1852 the most popular sight of London was Telbin’s
“Diorama of the Campaigns of Wellington.” On the battlefields
themselves, with Napier’s _History of the Peninsular War_ in his hand,
Ford had traced each move in the struggle between the English and French
in Spain. He had read every book which bore upon the subject; from the
lips of men who themselves had seen or taken part in the contest, he had
gathered details unknown to the historians; and he adored the Duke as
the greatest of Englishmen. From many of the places which the war had
made famous he had brought away his own sketches, and four of the
pictures (“The Night of the Battle of Talavera,” “The Capture of Ciudad
Rodrigo,” “The Victory of Salamanca,” “The Victory of Vitoria”) were
painted from his drawings. He also contributed the descriptive
letterpress, which was printed as _A Guide to the Diorama of the
Campaigns of the Duke of Wellington_ (London, 1852). His lively
descriptions of the battlefields are so vigorous that the following
extract from a rare book may be read with interest. It explains a
picture of “A Convoy intercepted by Partizans.”
The predatory system of Napoleon, in forcing the countries he
invaded to nourish his armies, necessarily sapped the foundations
of military discipline and good conduct. This increased the French
difficulties of subduing the Peninsula, which cannot be done with a
small army, and where a large one must starve i Polf separated
from magazines. The Massenas, who trusted to gaining their ends by
impetuous advances, did not or would not attend to organised
supplies, the sinews of war. Strong only when in position, and with
no hold on the soil or hearts of the nation, their convoys, few and
far between, were always exposed to be cut off by roving bands who
waged a _guerilla_, or little war, which, congenial to their
country--broken and rugged, and to their character--warlike but not
military, was conducted with infinite perseverance, energy, skill,
daring, valour, and success. Lord Wellington, who knew by
experience the impossibility of any Spanish army, “in want of
everything at the critical moment,” carrying on a regular war,
pronounced their partizanship the real and best national power.
Unparalleled in a contest of shifts and devices, and without
discipline or drill, the _Guerilleros_ waged a war to the knife;
and circumventing the invader by fair means and foul, avenged in
his heart’s blood wrongs too many ever to be forgotten, too great
ever to be forgiven. These hornets swarmed around every movement,
and displaced a force equal to 30,000 men, who were required to
patrol roads and keep communications open. The success of these
irregulars sustained the flame of Spain’s patriotism, amid the
disgrace and defeats of her regular armies. The French, who
smarted, executed them as robbers, because, forsooth, they wore no
uniform. Can a Marshal’s embroidery transform spoilers of church
and cottage into heroes, or its want degrade the honest defender of
altar and hearth into a bandit? Throughout the war, the surprises
of French convoys afforded scenes no less frequent than
picturesque. Down Alpine defiles and amid aromatic brushwood, the
long lines of laden mules, cars, and mounted escorts tracked their
tangled way, now concealed in rocks and thickets, now glittering in
the sun and giving life to the loneliness; then, in the most
perilous point of passage and behind loosened crags lurked the
partizans; every blunderbuss loaded and cocked, every finger on the
trigger, every knife unclasped, each breathlessly awaiting the
signal; nor ever was priest or monk wanting to shrive the souls,
and hold out immediate paradise to these humble crusaders, who fell
gloriously in the holy war for God, King and country. Honour
eternal to these noble sons of Spain! However wild, undisciplined
and oriental their resistance, it rises grandly, an example to the
world, now the crimes and follies of their unworthy leaders in
cabinet and camp have sunk into deserved oblivion.
Just now (Ford writes to Addington, May 7th, 1852) the old Tory’s
_Duke of Wellington’s Campaign Libretto_ is much talked of at the
Palace. Think of the F.M. going there _in personâ_, pulling out his
shilling, and buying a book, and carrying it off.
The old Duke (he adds, May 11th) has been to the Diorama, and was
much pleased, especially with Lisbon, Salamanca, Vitoria, and
Sorauren. When the squares at the concluding Waterloo began to
move, he quite fought his battles over again.
The Queen is illustrating the Diorama, the guide in hand.
Ford also notes that a large-paper copy had been bought by Lord
Malmesbury, then the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. He was
especially pleased with this purchase, because he was endeavouring to
obtain, through Addington, a nomination to the Diplomatic Service for
his only son, Francis Clare Ford. On leaving Eton, Clare Ford had
entered the 4th Light Dragoons. But military life was not to his taste:
he had sold out of the Army in June 1851, and was now studying in
France. By Addington’s advice a formal letter was written for submission
to the Foreign Secretary.
I am most anxious (wrote Ford) to start my only son in diplomacy,
to be followed up as his profession. You know the youth. He was at
Eton, has learnt the world in the course of soldiering, speaks and
writes French excellently, is a clever artist, gentlemanlike and
good-looking, can keep a secret, and is aged twenty-three.
Hereafter he will have an independent fortune.
I am fully aware that I have no right to apply to Lord Malmesbury
on private or public grounds; but, at least, I have always been,
and in the worst of times, a good Tory with pen and by mouth.
Across the letter which Addington wrote recommending Clare Ford, Lord
Malmesbury scribbled in pencil: “If the son is as clever as the father,
he deserves advancement. I have put him down, and hope to name him.” In
due course the nomination came. Writing to Addington, July 10th, 1852,
Ford says:
I really hardly know how _to thank you enough_. But I do _feel it
greatly_, and hope you believe that. Nothing could be more
gentlemanlike than Lord Malmesbury. In the middle of dinner--I sat
next to him--he said: “Let’s have a glass of champagne together and
drink your son’s health, whom I have just appointed an _attaché_ to
Naples.”
Before taking up his appointment abroad, Clare Ford was summoned home,
and began work at the Foreign Office in London. “The young diplomat,”
says his father, August 13th, 1852, “works hard at the desk, and is, I
am sure, in real and right earnest, and I hope by 1882 will be G.C.B.”
The hope was realised in the spirit, if not in the actual date. Sir
Clare Ford became a G.C.B. April 29th, 1889.
Hopeful of his son’s career and gratified by Lord Malmesbury’s
recognition of the young man as one of his “cleverest youngsters,” easy
in his own circumstances, established in his literary reputation,
preserving much of his extraordinary capacity for enjoyment, retaining
the freshness of his varied interests, a welcome guest everywhere in
society, counting his friends by the hundred, Ford seemed to have before
him many years of happiness. His pen was not idle. He wrote frequently
in the _Athenæum_ on subjects connected with art. He contributed several
articles to the _Quarterly Review_, notably that on “Apsley House”
(March 1853), in which he paid a fine tribute to the Duke of
Wellington.[54] He prepared a third edition of the _Handbook_, which was
in great part rewritten. He also was again busy with bricks and mortar
at Heavitree.
We have been (he writes to Addington, September 14th, 1854)
ruralising and rusticating ever since we fled from the thick-pent,
pestilence-stricken city. The days and weeks flit past with wings,
and fast as my ducats, for, to the raw material of ruin (farming),
I have in my dotage superadded building, and towers and domes are
rising while the bankers’ balance comes down. We are great in pigs
and pears, but only so-so in potatoes, which are cruelly diseased;
all my fond hopes of getting home by these tubers are dissipated.
I am pretty well, barring pocket;--early to bed and early to rise,
without, however, being wealthy or wise. _Handbook_ is at a
standstill; in fact, it is impossible to dip in the inkstand, or
remain indoors, when there is so much going on out of doors, and,
as I never admit either architects or nursery gardeners, there is
plenty for the master’s head to devise and eye to superintend.
In the autumn of 1855 Ford and his wife were hastily summoned to London
by the dangerous illness of her only brother. Sir William Molesworth had
won for himself a brilliant position in English politics. To his
advocacy had been mainly due the abolition of transportation, and his
speeches on colonial questions were marked by profound knowledge of the
subject and a statesmanlike breadth of view. In January 1853 he was
appointed First Commissioner of Works, with a seat in Lord Aberdeen’s
Cabinet. Two years later (July 1855), when he succeeded Lord John
Russell as Colonial Secretary, he had gained the legitimate object of
his ambition, and held an office for which he was acknowledged to be
peculiarly qualified. But his health, always weak, broke down under the
strain.
His system (writes Ford to Addington, October 21st, 1855), never
very strong, has succumbed to a long and late session, to which
the overwork of a new office was added just at the moment when
repose and the country were most wanting. He is in a _very critical
state_; but I do not quite despair, and I hope to-morrow to be able
to report progress.
I have no heart now to enter on those matters which would have
filled my pages. Oh the vanity of vanities! Look at poor Sir
William, a young man, stretched on his bed and wrestling with death
with the heart of a lion, and this just at the moment when all his
honours were budding thick and the object of a life’s honourable
ambition gained.
Sir William Molesworth died October 22nd, 1855. Ford’s own health was
now rapidly breaking down. His eyesight began to fail. He slept badly.
The fatal malady which ultimately caused his death--Bright’s
disease--was already developed in his system, and affected his nervous
condition. His letters lost their gaiety. A visit to Paris in September
1856, where his son was now an _attaché_, did not revive his spirits.
Writing to Addington, he says:
One line from the most palatial Paris, the capital and centre of
general civilisation, where gold and gastric juice and the
insolence of health and intellect seem to be the things wanting,
and where the lust of the eye is indeed gratified. To those who
have not seen it for many years, the transformations are magical,
and the slaves of the lamp are at work day and night.
_Diruit--edificat_ is the imperial mandate.
We, I fear, must mark No. 2 in many things, not only in political
matters. Our _prestige_ has sadly fallen on the Continent, and the
French, who claim all the glory of the Crimea, almost fancy we
exist at their sufferance, and that by saving us at Inkerman, etc.,
they have wiped out Waterloo. Not a few call the English medal
which figures on the breast of many a Zouave _La Medaille de
sauvetage_, and compare it to that given by the Humane Society to
those who have rescued others from death and danger.
My son is alive and busy. He has now an idea of what _work_ is, and
this mission at Paris is of a very different stamp from _Otiosa
Neapolis_. However, work is good for the young. The time will
arrive, and how rapidly! when we must all say _tempus abire_, and
happy those who are _en règle_, and are blessed besides, like you,
with a strong and philosophic mind,--both of which are wanting to
me, who would gladly prefer them to gold and gastric juice.
In December 1856 Ford accepted the appointment to serve, with Lord
Broughton, the Dean of St. Paul’s, Michael Faraday, George Richmond,
and Charles Robert Cockerel, on a Royal Commission “to determine the
site of the National Gallery, and to report on the desirableness of
combining with it the Fine Art and Archæological Collection of the
British Museum.” But eight days after the announcement had appeared in
the _London Gazette_ (December 15th, 1856), he was obliged to withdraw
his consent to act, as he found that his health incapacitated him from
discharging the duties of the commission. The newspapers of the day bore
witness to the regret that was felt at his inability to serve. “We
expressed a fortnight ago,” says the _Illustrated London News_ for
January 3rd, 1857, “the general satisfaction that was felt in Mr. Ford’s
appointment. His place is not easily to be supplied. His practical good
sense, and the general esteem in which he is held, peculiarly fitted him
for the appointment.”
Ill though Ford was, he was able to enjoy the promise of his son’s
success in the diplomatic service. Promoted to be a paid _attaché_ in
March 1857, Clare Ford passed an examination which, as his father
proudly reports to Addington, was “the most brilliant ever passed in
international law.” In the summer of the same year (June 22nd, 1857) he
married Annie, second daughter of the Marquis Garofalo, the head of a
family distinguished in the history of Naples. Ford was at his son’s
wedding; but after that date he went less and less into society. His
last article in the _Quarterly Review_, “Rugby Reminiscences,” which
appeared in October 1857, was a review of _Tom Brown’s Schooldays_. For
him
[Illustration:
Velasquez Pinx. Emery Walker Ph. Sc.
Dona Margarita Mariana of Austria wife of Philip IV. of Spain.]
the subject had two special attractions. Arnold was an old schoolfellow
at Winchester, and ‘Tom’ Hughes had married Ford’s niece, the daughter
of his brother James. It is interesting to learn that Arnold had not
impressed his contemporaries at school with any “great promise of future
excellence,” though his “love for history rather than for poetry, and
for truth and facts in preference to fiction,” was already conspicuous.
But Ford traces Arnold’s encouragement of games and attention to the
supply of proper food at Rugby, to his own experience of “the cheerless
condition of Commoners,” and “the ‘Do-the-boys’ dietary” which had
prevailed at Winchester.
Ford’s last letter to Addington, dated December 20th, 1857, is written
from 123, Park Street:--
DEAR ADDINGTON,
Many thanks for your old-friendlike and most _seasonable_ letter,
and, indeed, I most sincerely reciprocate in wishing you and your
dear wife every possible happiness, and in these wishes Mrs. Ford
most entirely joins. May the season be pleasant to you both, nay,
even “merry.” May you both enjoy that good old epithet associated
to the auspicious moment, to which your sound health and right
cheery mind so fairly entitle you.
We dined last night with the Marshalls, and the turkey was indeed
most orthodox and succulent. Spring Rice dined there with _Bessy_,
and my son Clare with his _Bene_. They are preparing for Lisbon,
and will start in about a fortnight. _Bon voyage!_
The Indian news is well-timed. The worst is now past, and the
difficult task of reconstruction has begun. Your friend, Lord
Canning, seems to have done right well. Things seem to be
_bettering_ in the City; but I fear that there will be much
distress among our industrious operatives. The next three months
will be a terrible trial for the poor.
God bless you, dear Addington!
Ever yours most truly,
RICHARD FORD.
During the next few months the two old friends met frequently; but in
July 1858 Ford’s health had become so precarious that his son was
summoned home from Lisbon, where he now was an _attaché_. Richard Ford
died at Heavitree, August 31st, 1858.
INDEX
Abadia, General, 129
Abadía, Palace at, 88, 92
Aberdeen, Lord, 82
Absolutists, the, 5
Abu Abdullah, 59ⁿ
Addington, Henry Unwin--Plenipotentiary at Madrid (1829-33), 1, 73;
leaves Madrid, 124, 126, 127;
his pension, 135;
his criticism of Ford, 137, 141-4, 159, 163, 164, 193, 194;
his advice as to Clare Ford’s future, 212
_Advertising_, Hayward’s article on, 186
Agriculture in Morocco, 120
Agustina, “La Artillera,” the Maid of Zaragoça, 55
Airecillo, the, at the Alhambra, 41, 44, 47
Alagon, 134
Alameda Vieja, the, at Seville, 12, 18, 23, 128
Albaicin, the, 41
Albemarle Street, 182, 187, 190, 192
Alcantara, 88, 89, 92
Alcaravan (bittern), 69
Alcazar, the, 100, 105
Alcolea, 109
Alexander VI., Pope, 55
Alforjas (saddle bags), 124
las Alfujarras, jamon de, 139
Algeciras, Torrijos lands at, 19; 84, 86
Algiers, 120
Albania, 114, 117
Alhambra, the, 32, 34, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41,
51, 59ⁿ, 65, 72, 102, 108, 112, 114, 126, 146, 148, 161
Alicante, 54, 56, 57
Allan, Sir William, R.A., 170
“Ally Croaker,” 39
Althorp, Lord, 111
Alva, the Duke of, 89, 92;
life of, 205
Alva, Duke of, 122, 134
las Amarillas, Marques de, 10, 13, 98, 106, 108, 110;
the first man in Spain, 136, 137
Andalusia, rising in, 19
los Andes, Conde de, 77, 80, 81
Andujar, 35, 40, 42, 45, 49, 56, 65
Antequera, 117
Apsley House, article on, 214
Aqueduct at Merida, 32
Aranjuez, 131, 139
Arapiles, 91
Architecture, Spanish, article on, 204
Argamasilla de Alba, 30
Arjona, the Assistente, 13, 14, 15, 43, 87, 107
Armament, the, for Portuguese expedition, 83
Armeria, the, 70
Arnold, Dr. Thomas, 134ⁿ, 219
Arrests for sketching, 57
Ass, the, 7, 56
Asses’ milk, 71
_Athenæum_, the, 214
Athenæum, the, at Exeter, 155
_Ay de mi, Alhama_, 117
Azulejos, 82, 83, 148
Babylon, walls of, 156
Bacalao (dried fish), 107
Badajoz, 32, 77, 79;
artillery ordered to, 80; 81, 88, 91
Bara, 46
Barbate, the, 20
Barbary, travelling in, 117
Barcelona, 54, 55, 57, 59, 60;
description of, 61; 110;
Llauder expelled from, 136
Baring, 90
Barings, the Miss, 171
Barranco de San Juan, the, 128
Bassetlaw job, the, 53
Batushka (Borrow), 192
Baylen, 49
Benalua, 66
Benavente, 92
“Bene” (Mrs. Clare Ford), 220
Benin, Bight of, 197
Berja, lead mines at, 37
Bermudez, Cea (or Zea), 1, 2, 114
de Berry, la Duchesse, 99ⁿ
“Bessy,” 219
Best, Mr., 167
_Bible in Spain_, the, quoted, 20, 21; 180-4
Bigge, Captain, 27, 31
Bilbao, 88, 93
Boabdila, 59ⁿ
Boars, wild, 18
Bodleian Library, the, 146
Bodmin, 207
Borgia, Cæsar, 35, 55
Borrow, George, on Quesada, 20;
_Zincali_, 179;
_Bible in Spain_, 180-4;
his Greek servant, 180; 185;
his biography, 185, 189;
at Oulton Hall, 190, 191, 192; 194, 202
Bory de Saint Vincent, 143
Botiga, the, 40, 67
Bowring, Dr., 147, 149
Boyd, Robert, 73, 74, 75, 76, 93
Brackenbury, Sir John, Consul at Cadiz, 31, 72, 76, 83, 112, 115, 128, 138
Brasero, the, 12, 16
Brazilian Slave Trade, the, 198, 199
_British and Foreign Review_, the, 179
“Brook, Master,” 40
Brougham, Lord, 17ⁿ
Broughton, Lord, 217
la Bruyère, quoted, 151
Bull fights, 102, 103;
in honour of Princess Isabella, 122;
Ford’s article on, 122ⁿ, 163, 165, 166, 167
Buller, Colonel, 102, 103, 107, 110
Bulteel, Mr., 149
Bunyan, John, 181, 183
Burdett, Sir Francis, 24, 52
Burgos, 59, 61, 93, 109, 110
Burra, 56
Burton, Professor Edward, his _Antiquities of Rome_ (1821), 171
Burton, Robert (author of the _Anatomy of Melancholy_), 202
Bustard, the, 18, 69
Byron, Ada (Lady Lovelace), 151
Byron, Lord, 95, 117ⁿ, 151, 152;
_The Corsair_, 199
Cadiz, the Cortes at, in 1812, 3;
free trading at, 10, 27, 52;
riots at, in 1831, 20, 27, 41;
assassination of governor, 20, 26;
the _Malabar_ at, 116;
cholera at, 127, 128, 138
Cain, the originator of cob walls, 156
_Ça ira_ of the Spanish Revolution, the, 4
Cajeput oil, 62
Caldero, 31
Calle de Alcala, in Madrid, 21, 41, 45, 54
Calle de Genoa, at Seville, 11
Calle de los Monsalvos, at Seville, 68
Calomarde, 97, 98
Campillo de la Arena, 47, 49, 65, 66
_Candide_, 153
Canning, Lord, 220
Canning, Lady Stratford, 111
Canning system, the, 25
Capara, 92
Cardenas, the Venta de, 30
Cardenio, 30
Cardinals & Co., 208
Cardona, the salt mines at, 55, 61, 63, 64
Carlos, Don, 4;
retires to Portugal, 5, 98; 74, 96, 97;
his wife, 97; 121, 159
“Carlos, Don:” _see_ Downie
Carlota, Princess, of Naples, 97, 99ⁿ, 100
Carmen Convent, the, at Malaga, 73
Carnarvon, Lord, 17, 181
Cartuja Convent, the, near Burgos, 109
Casa de los Expositos, the, 114
Casa Sanchez, the, in the Alhambra, 146
Cassiobury, 43
Castlereagh, Lord, 17
Cavallero, Juan, 76
Ceca, La, 39
Cemetery at Malaga, the, 73, 74
Charles IV., and the Salic Law, 96;
his wife, 99ⁿ
Charles V. at the Alhambra, 36, 72;
at San Yuste, 88, 92;
founder of the Maestranza, 103ⁿ
Charlotte, Princess, 114
Château Margaux, 186
Cheffhttinschkwi, 70
Cherbourg, 170
Chico, el Rey, 59ⁿ
Cholera, the, 61, 67, 89, 99, 103, 113;
at Lisbon, 116; 125, 127;
precautions against, 129-32
Chorizo (sausage), 139, 183
Chorlito (curlew), 69
Christina, Queen, 2, 4, 5;
degrades Moreno, 73; 74, 97, 99ⁿ, 107, 136ⁿ
Ciudad Rodrigo, 89, 91, 92;
capture of, Ford’s picture, 209
Clarendon, Lord, 202, 205;
and _see_ George Villiers
Cob walls, 147, 151, 152, 155, 156, 159
Coche de colleras, the, 35, 49, 134
Cockerel, Charles Robert, 218
Colburn, Mr., 117
Collier, Mr., 198
Compostella, 93
Conder, Josiah, his “Italy” (1831), 171
“Constantine the Great” (Lord Normanby), 169
Constitution, the, 3;
rejected by Ferdinand VII., 4;
and Pedro IV., 74
Constitutionalists, return of the, 4
Consuls, English, 112, 114
Cook, Samuel Edward (afterwards Widdrington), 31ⁿ,
38ⁿ, 77, 83, 88, 90, 139, 140, 141, 142
Cordova, 39
Coria, 92
Corpus, el Dia de, 121
Corral de Conde, at Seville, 12
Cortijo del Puche, the, 54
Coto del Rey, the, 14, 16, 18
Couskousu, 120
Cowper, Lady, 16
Cranstoun, Lord, 160, 162
Cranstoun, the Hon. Eliza (second wife of Richard Ford), 160
Crawford, Oswald John Frederick, 186ⁿ
Cuarto, the, 100ⁿ, 107
de Custine, Marquis (Author of _L’Espagne sous Ferdinand VII._), 33, 43, 53, 66
Danube, the, 201
Dart, the, 161, 165
Daubeny, Professor, 31ⁿ
Dennis, G., his _Summer in Andalusia_, 28ⁿ
Despeña-perros, 30
_Diario_, the, 107
Dickens, Charles, 167, 170
Diligences in Spain, 28, 29;
stopped on account of cholera, 129, 130, 131
“Dionysia” (Mrs. O’Lawlor), 37, 58, 67, 80, 87, 102, 113, 126
Dionysio, bookseller at Seville, 11
Diorama of the Campaigns of the Duke of Wellington, Guide to the, 209-12
Dog-days, at the Alhambra, 52
Dolorosita, (niece of Francisca de Molina), 72
Domestic appliances, at Seville, 71, 77
Don, General Sir George, 9, 21, 44
Downie (“Don Carlos”), the commandante at Jaen, 40, 45, 50, 65, 67, 69, 87
Dress, in Spain, 6, 7;
in Morocco, 118;
at state funerals, 134
Drewe, Mr., High Sheriff of Devon, 199
Drummond-Hay, Edward William Auriol, H.B.M. Consul at Tangier, 112, 119, 124
Dudley, Lord, 2, 14, 17, 43
Dulcinea, 30
Ebrington, Lord, 149
_Echo_, the, 197, 198
Ecija, 39
Eden, Sir William, 66, 70, 71, 75, 77, 78, 79, 81, 88, 90, 116
_Edinburgh Review_, the, 183, 184, 185, 186, 189, 214ⁿ
El Bravo (Sancho IV.), 84
El Bueno (Guzman), 85, 103, 138
El Feroz (Heaphy), 90
El Galib (Mohammed I.), 59;
(Mark), 114
El Gitano (Borrow), 190
El Majadero (gawk), 90
El Pilar, 55, 62, 64
El Rey Chico, 59ⁿ
_El Santo Rostro_, 66ⁿ
El Toboso, 30
Elche, the city of palms, 54, 57
Election, parliamentary, for South Devon, 148 _seq._
Ephesus of Mariolatry, the (Zaragoça), 55
Escribano, the, at Manzanares, 131
Escurial, the, 53
de España, the Conde, 61, 98;
replaced by Llauder, 136ⁿ
Essex, Lord, 43, 160
Estcourt, T. G. Bucknall, M.P., 154
Estcourt, Eleanor Anne (Mrs. Addington), 154
Estefa, José Maria retires to, 99
Estremadura, 92
Eton, school bills at, 189;
Montem, 192; 212
Exeter, 134, 135, 136;
its library, 135, 140; 144, 145, 146;
old furniture from, 146;
railway to, 192;
July (1846) assizes at, 197
Exmouth, 175, 196, 197
Falmouth, 138
Faraday, Michael, 218
Faure, 143
_Felicidade_, the, 197, 198
Ferdinand VII., 1, 4;
his restoration, 4;
his marriage, 4;
his character, 5;
his health, 74, 79, 98, 114;
his children, 97;
restores the Salic law, 97;
winters at Seville, 103;
his letter to the Captains General, 114;
his patronage of art, 140, 141;
his death and funeral, 133, 134, 188
_Ferdinand and Isabella_ (Prescott’s), reviewed by Ford, 166, 168
Ferdinand the Catholic, 109
Fergusson, 205
Fez, 120
Flax, cultivation of, 208
Flegras, General, 87
Florida Blanca, court of, 122
Foote, Samuel, 39ⁿ
Ford, Frances (wife of Thomas Hughes), 134ⁿ, 219
Ford, Francis Clare, 155, 212, 213, 214;
his examination in international law, 218;
his marriage, 218;
G.C.B., 213, 214;
at Naples (1852), 213;
at Paris (1856), 216, 217;
at Lisbon (1857), 220
Ford, Georgina (wife of Mowbray Northcote), 206
Ford, James, 134, 137, 219.
Ford, Mary Jane (wife of Edmund Tyrwhitt), 206
Ford, Meta (wife of O. J. F. Crawford), 186ⁿ, 207
Ford, Richard, as a sportsman, 18, 19;
birth of a son, 25;
his son’s death, 98;
birth of a daughter, 104;
his return to England, 125, 133;
at Park Street, 133, 166, 203, 206, 207, 208, 219;
at Southernhay, 135, 137;
his pocketbooks, 137, 138;
illness of his son, 155;
his second marriage, 160, 161;
his daughters, 185, 189;
their marriages, 206;
his church building, 192, 193;
his third marriage, 207;
Bright’s disease, 216;
visits his son in Paris, 216;
Commissioner on the site of the National Gallery, 218;
his death, 220;
and _see_ Reviews
Ford, Lady, her death, 206
Ford, Mrs. (the first), her Pajez guitar, 53;
her health, 15, 70, 74, 76, 78, 82, 83, 88, 93, 98, 104, 106, 110, 123, 125;
her riding habit, 108, 135;
her silver box, 111, 113, 115, 116;
her death, 156, 157
Ford, Mrs. (the second), 160, 161, 162, 163, 164, 188, 192, 196;
her health, 205;
her death, 206
Ford, Mrs. (the third), 207, 208
Fords, the five Miss, 137
Fowling-pieces, 18, 19
Francisco de Paula, 97, 99, 102, 103ⁿ
Frias, Duke of, 122
Fulford, Mr. Baldwin, jun., 149
“Gaffer George,” 55
Gaisford, Dr., 203
Galignani’s newspaper, 15, 26, 52, 57, 93, 94, 99, 127
Game, at Seville, 18, 19
Garofalo, Marquis, 218
Garofalo, Annie (wife of Clare Ford), 218
Gaspacho (soup), 100
_Gatherings from Spain_, 138, 204
Gayangos, Don Pascual, 201, 202
_Gazette de France_, the, 136
Generalife, the, 41, 48, 109, 110
George III., 188
George IV., 114
Germany, 201
Geronimo, church of, in Madrid, 121
de Gersdorf, Mr., 43
Gibraltar, 9;
Torrijos at, 19; 23;
officers kidnapped at, 75; 85, 121, 138
Gil Blas, 181, 183
_Gipsies in Spain_, the (Borrow), 179, 183ⁿ
Giralda, the, 23
Giron, General, 10, 13;
_see_ Marques de las Amarillas
Godoy, 99ⁿ
Godson, Mr., 198
Gorro, the, 130
Granada, the Duke of Wellington on, 3;
climate, etc., 34, 35; 40, 49, 51, 90, 99,
108, 109, 110, 116, 117, 121, 124, 125, 129, 166
Grant, 134, 135
Grazalema, 86
Greenwich, whitebait at, 208
_Greville Memoirs_, the, 17ⁿ, 101ⁿ, 124
Grey, Lord, his ministry, 17
Griffiths’, at Gibraltar, 138
Grimaldi, 119
Guadairo, the, 85
Guadalete, the, 85
Guadalquivir, the, 18
Guarroman, 130
Guerilleros, 210, 211
Guisado de Perdices, 49
Gurwood, Lt.-Col., his _Wellington Dispatches_, 166
Gutierez, 103
de Guzman, Alonzo Perez (El Bueno), 84, 85, 103, 138
Guzman, Don Rafael, 103
Haliburton, Thomas Chandler, author of _Sam Slick_, 167
_Handbook for Travellers in Spain_, the (1845), 66ⁿ, 138,
173-9, 184, 186, 187, 188, 190, 192;
first edition cancelled, 193, 194, 195, 196;
(1846), 197, 201, 202;
second edition (1847), 204;
third edition (1855), 214, 215
Hats, in Granada, 50, 51
Havre, 172
Hawtrey, of Eton, 192
Hay: _see_ Drummond Hay
Hayward, Abraham, 186
Head, Sir Edmund, 128;
his book reviewed by Ford, 128; 139, 143, 144
Heaphy, Captain, 66, 70, 90, 140
Heavitree, 146 _seq._, 150;
Elizabethan apartment at, 154,
finished and furnished, 154, 155;
the garden-house at, 173
Heraldry, Spanish, article on, 163
_Hermes_, the, 115, 116
Hierro, Oliver y, Governor of Cadiz, 20
Hildebrand, 195
Himno del Riego, el, 4
_Historical Inquiry into the unchangeable character of a war in Spain_, 158
Holbein, 110
Holland, Lady, her sheets, 100
Holy War, the, 35
Holy Week, 112, 114
Hoppner, Mr. R. B., 52
Horner, Mr., 102
Horse’s Foot, the, article on, 204
Houston, Sir William, Governor of Gibraltar, 76, 85
Howell, James, his _Epistolæ Ho-elianæ_, 138ⁿ
Huelva, cholera at, 127; 128
la Huerta, composer of the Hymn of Riego, 4
Hughes, Thomas, 134ⁿ, 219
Humboldt, 202
Hurdes: _see_ Jurdes
Ibrahim Pacha, defeats the Turks at Konieh, 115
Igualada, 64
_Illustrated London News_, the, 218
Income tax, the, 184
India, after the mutiny, 220
Infantado, Duke of, 122
Influenza, the, 155, 193
Inglis, H. D., his _Spain in 1830_, 56
Inkerman, 217
Inquisition, the, restored by Ferdinand VII., 4
International Law, Clare Ford’s examination in, 218
Irish Church Question, the, 148
Irun, 6
Irving, Washington, 3, 36, 117, 202
Isabella, Queen, 96, 109
Isabella, Princess, birth of, 5, 97;
proclaimed queen, 5; 96, 98;
recognized as heiress to the throne, 121; 99ⁿ, 114
Isla de Leon, 4
“Jaca cordovese,” 8
Jaen, 35, 40, 46, 47, 49, 50, 65, 69, 87;
cholera at, 129
“Jamon de las Alfujarras,” 139
Jamones, 203, 207
Jermyn Street, Ford’s house in, 162
Jersey, 170
Jersey, Lady, 16, 17
Jewelry, of the Moors, 118, 120, 121
Jews, the, in Morocco, 116, 117, 118, 119
Joanes (or Juanes), Vicente, 55, 60
Joinville, 193
Jones, Owen, his _Plans, etc., of the Alhambra_ (1842), 167
“Jorge, Don” (Borrow), 194, 197
“José, Don,” _see_ O’Lawlor
José Maria, _see_ Maria
“Juan, Don,” 203
Junta de Sanidad, the, 130
Jurdes, 92
“King John’s Tavern,” Exeter, 146
King, Lord, his marriage, 151, 152, 162
Konieh, defeat of the Turks at, 115ⁿ
Kutayah, Treaty of, 115
de Laborde, Alexandre, 143ⁿ
Ladrones, 37, 99
Lady’s Love, Spanish, article on, 204
La Granja, 96, 97, 105, 139
La Granja, Marquis de, 69, 77
Lambert, Abbot of S. Rufus, quoted by Ford as St. Ambrose, 138
Landseer, Sir Edwin, 170
Lannes, Marshall, 56
Larpent’s _Journal_, reviewed by Ford, 214ⁿ
Las Batuecas, 92
Leon, 93
Leslie, Charles, R.A., 170
Lewis, Mr. J. F., 95, 102, 105, 106, 108, 109, 113
Lewis, Mr. F. C., 95ⁿ
Lienzo work, 161
Lillifant, Mr., 149
Lisbon, 79;
the _Hermes_ at, 116;
the cholera at, 116; 212
Llauder, General Manuel, 98, 136
Locke, John, 152
Lockhart, John Gibson, 155, 160, 165;
his “Ballads,” 167 179, 182;
on the _Handbook_, 202;
on the _Gatherings_, 204, 205
Loja, 117
_London Gazette_, the, 218
Lorano, Don Pablo, his _Antiquedades arabes_, 109
Los Humeros, 12
Louis Philippe, 8, 176
Lovelace, Earl of: _see_ Lord King
Lowestoft, 190
Lowndes Street, Ford’s house in, 162
Loyola, 195
Lugo, 88, 93
Lyndhurst, Lady, 17
Lyndhurst, Lord, 17ⁿ
Macadam, 40
la Macarena, 12
Macaroni, 171, 174
Macaulay, Thomas Babington, 52
Macklin, Miss, 39ⁿ
Madeira, 110
Madrid, riots at, suppressed by Quesada, 20, 21; 93, 94;
exchange at, 113; 193
Maestranza, the, 103
Magazines, penny, 138
Mairena, fair at, 12
Major, the, 127
Majoral, the, 35, 45, 49, 130
Majos, the, 43, 87, 103
_Malabar_, the, 116
Malaga, 2, 3, 37, 54, 59;
Torrijos lands at, 73;
Carmen Convent at, 73; 74, 78, 90, 99, 104, 121, 123, 138
Malle de Poste, the, 94
Mallorca, 111
Malmesbury, Lord, 212, 213, 214
Mamhead, 164
la Mancha, 30
Manning, Mr., 198, 199
Manresa, 55, 63
Manzanares (the rebel), 20
Manzanares, 130
Maratti, Carlo, 15
Maria da Gloria, 5, 74, 101ⁿ
Maria Francisca, of Braganza, 97
Maria, José, Bandit of Andalusia, 7, 27, 40, 67, 68, 75, 79, 81, 85, 86, 89;
his retirement, 99, 102, 112, 113
Maria Luisa, wife of Charles IV., 99ⁿ
Mark, Mr., Consul at Malaga, 2, 3, 54, 59, 73,
74, 75, 81, 83, 98, 99, 104, 106, 114, 121, 141
Marryat, Captain Frederick, 167
Marseillaise of Spain, the, 4
Marshalls, the, 219
Martin, Captain, 66, 70, 71, 75, 78, 79, 81, 90
Massenas, the, 210
_Matilda_, 169
Meara: _see_ O’Meara
Medina Celi, 134
Medina Sidonia, 85
Mehemet Ali, 115
Melbourne, Lord, 148
Mengibar, 130
Merida, 32, 88, 89, 92
_Merry Wives of Windsor, The_, 40ⁿ
Mexico, Humboldt’s book on, 202
“la Mezquita,” at Oulton Hall, 191
Miguel, Dom, 5, 74, 81, 99;
his fleet destroyed, 101; 103
Miguelites: _see_ Miquelites
Milan, 172
Milman, Dean, 218
Mina, General, 136ⁿ
Minaño, Diccionario de España, 172, 174, 176, 187
Miquelites, or Miqueletes, the, 35, 36, 40, 42, 45, 49, 50, 56
Mohammed I. (Ibn-al-Ahmar), 59ⁿ
Molesworth, Sir Arscott Ourry, 207
Molesworth, Miss Caroline, 208
Molesworth, Miss Mary (third wife of Richard Ford), 207
Molesworth, Sir William, M.P., 207;
in the Cabinet, 215;
Colonial Secretary, 215;
his last illness, 215;
his death, 216
Molesworth, Dowager Lady, the 207
de Molina, Francisca (“Tia Antonia”), and the Alhambra, 36, 37, 54, 72, 114
Monet, Don Juan Antonio, of Algeciras, 81, 86, 87
Monserrat, 55, 61, 63
Montaigne, 202
Montanches Porkers, 203
Moreno, Vicente Gonsalez, Captain-General of Malaga, 72, 73;
of Granada, 73; 76, 77, 78, 98, 106
Morgan, Lady, 150, 151
de Mornay, Charles, 90
_Morning Post_, the, 197
Muchacha, 148
Munich, 201
Murcia, 90
Muriel, 110
Murillo, 11
Murray, John, 164, 165, 167, 172, 173, 177, 178, 179;
Memoir of John Murray, 180, 184; 185, 186;
his death, 187, 188, 190, 193, 194
Murviedro, 55, 58, 60
Musée Standish, the, 8
Nagle, Jane Francis (Mrs. James Ford), 134ⁿ
Napier, Admiral Sir Charles, 101
Napier, Sir W. F. P., his _Peninsular War_, 128, 143, 193, 209
Napier, Macvey, Editor of the _Edinburgh Review_, 186
Napoleon, his system of supplies, 209 _seq._
Narvaez, 193
National Gallery, the, 218
Nicholas I., 18
Nightingales in the Alhambra, 48
“No-popery” disturbances in Devonshire, 194, 195
Northcote, Mowbray, 206
Northcote, Stafford, 149, 206
Norwich, Borrow at, 191
Ocaña, 131
O’Connell, 147, 149, 170, 190
O’Donnel, General, 81
O’Lawlor, General, agent for the Duke of Wellington (Don José), 3, 32, 37,
41, 46, 48, 49, 51, 58, 69, 80, 83, 87, 102, 105, 106, 108, 111, 113;
his tailor, 123;
birth of a daughter, 126; 128, 129
_Oliver Twist_, reviewed by Ford, 169
Olive wood, for burning, 105
O’Meara, 66, 70, 90
O’Neil, General, 69, 71, 77, 78, 105, 106
Oporto, occupied by Pedro IV., 74;
the _Hermes_ at, 116
Ormerod, Miss, 208
Orvieto, 172
Ossuna, 116
Ottley, Sir Richard, 171;
his daughter, 171
Oulton Hall, 190, 191
Oviedo, 93
Oxford, Ford at, 146, 202, 203
Oxholm, Colonel, 65
Painting, Spanish, Ford’s article on, 204
Pajez, Juan, his guitars, 53ⁿ, 111
Palmerston, Lord, 14, 69, 73, 159
Palms, the city of: _see_ Elche
Palo santo (wood), 53ⁿ
Paris, 216
Parker, Mr., M.P. for South Devon, 148, 149, 150
Partizans, convoy intercepted by, 209
Partridges, 46, 47, 49
Pascoe, Captain, 44
Pasqual, 54, 56, 62, 63, 64
Passports for Mr. F. J. Lewis, 95, 102;
and cholera, 130
Patio de los Leones, the, 41, 72, 126
Pavito, roast, 47
Pearson, Mr., his watch, 50
Pedro IV., 5;
resigns the throne of Brazil, 74;
occupies Oporto, 74; 88, 94, 99, 100, 101, 103, 128
Pedroza, Ramon, 38
Peel, Sir Robert, 52, 148, 187
Pelissier, Marshal, 199
Pencarrow, 207
_Penny Cyclopædia_, the, 184, 185
Percy, Captain, of the _Malabar_, 116
Perry, James, of the _Morning Chronicle_, 169
Philip II., 122;
Prescott’s _Philip II._, 205
Philip V., 96
“Philosophical Radicals, the,” 207
Philpotts, Dr. Henry, Bishop of Exeter, 149, 150, 154, 194, 195
Phipps, Constantine Henry, first Marquis of Normanby, 169, 170
Phœnicians, the, introducers of cob walls, 156
Picacho de la Veleta, 50, 52, 54, 83, 128
Pidcock’s lions, 41
Pilar: _see_ El Pilar
Pincian, pines from the, 146
Pindar, of Seville, 43
de Pineda, Maria, 38, 41, 42, 45
Pirates, execution of, at Exeter, 199
Placencia, 88, 89, 91, 92
Plato, 150
Platt, Mr. Baron, 198
Plaza de Alcala, the, 63
Plaza de la Carne, the, at Seville, aqueduct at, 11
Plaza de la Constitution, the, 3
Plaza del Duque, the, at Seville, 11
Plaza Mayor, the, at Madrid, 122
Plazuela San Isidoro, the, at Seville, 8
Poland, revolution in, 24
_Policy of England towards Spain_ (pamphlet), 159
Polpette, 171
Pompeii, 190
Porchester, Lord, 52
Porrit’s _Unreformed House of Commons_, 53ⁿ
Portland mutton, 188
Portugal, civil war in, 5, 74;
armament against, 78; 79, 83, 88, 91, 126
Prado, the, at Madrid, 125
de Prats, Miquel, 35
Prescott, W. H., his _Ferdinand and Isabella_ reviewed by Ford, 166, 168;
his _Philip II._, 205;
on the _Handbook_, 202
Presidarios, the, 72
Protestants buried at Malaga, 73
Puchero, 5, 139, 165
Puerta del Vino, the, at the Alhambra, 161
Punch, 182
“Purissima,” the, 60
Pusey, Dr., 203
Puseyism at Oxford, 203
Pynes, 206ⁿ
_Quarterly Review_, the, 122, 128, 134, 137,
138, 155, 158, 159, 160, 169, 182, 183, 186, 204, 205, 214, 218
Quesada, Captain General of Andalusia, 20, 21, 26, 28;
of Madrid, 20, 98;
Borrow on, 20, 21; 61, 75, 87, 95;
reforms the police, 106; 107, 108, 110;
his character, 136
Quesada, Madame, 108, 110
Queso de albaricoqui, 42
Quintas, 91
_Quixote, Don_, 30
Rabat, 120
Rack Street, Exeter, 146
Radford, Mr., his establishment, 145
Radnor, Lord, 17
Rafaello ware, 174
Ravasa, or Ravisa, 59, 62, 70, 89
Reading, 154
Reform Bill, the, 52, 53
Register chest from Exeter Cathedral, 146
Retford, East, borough of, 53
Reviews and Articles, by Ford:--
Apsley House (_Quarterly Review_, March 1853), 214
_Bible in Spain_ (_Edinburgh Review_, February 1843), 182-6
Cob Walls (_Quarterly Review_, April 1837), 155, 156, 159
Horse’s Foot, the (_Quarterly Review_, June 1846), 204
Larpent’s _Journal_ (_Edinburgh Review_, July 1853), 214ⁿ
_Oliver Twist_ (_Quarterly Review_, June 1839), 169
Prescott’s _Ferdinand and Isabella_ (_Quarterly Review_, June 1839), 166, 168
Ronda and Granada (_Quarterly Review_, March 1839), 166
Semilasso in Africa (_Quarterly Review_, July 1837), 158, 159
Spanish Architecture (_Quarterly Review_, March, 1846), 204
Spanish Bull-feasts and Bull-fights (_Quarterly Review_, October 1838),
122ⁿ, 163-5
Spanish Heraldry (_Quarterly Review_, June 1838), 163
Spanish Lady’s Love (_Quarterly Review_, September 1846), 204
Spanish Painting (_Quarterly Review_, June 1848), 128, 204
Spanish Theatre (_Quarterly Review_, July 1837), 158
_Tom Brown’s School Days_ (_Quarterly Review_, June 1848), 134ⁿ, 218
_Zincali, or, The Gipsies in Spain_ (_British and Foreign Review_,
No. XXVI.), 179
Rhine, the, 201
Ribalta, Francisco, 55, 58
Ribera (Spagnoletto), 54
Richmond, George, R.A., 218
del Riego, Don Rafael, 4
Rio Tinto, mines at, 92
Roberts, David, his sketches, 128
Rome, 171
Ronda, Manzanares at, 20;
snow-clad hills at, 83; 84, 85, 86, 116, 117, 166
Rubens, 14
_Rugby Reminiscences_, 218
Rugby, school food at, 219
Russia, protects Constantinople, 115
Saguntum, 55, 58
St. Ambrose, “viscarium diaboli,” 138;
_see_ Lambert
St. Barbe, M. de, 33, 43, 53, 66
St. Malo, 170
St. Veronica’s handkerchief, 66ⁿ
St. Vincent, Cape, 101ⁿ
Sala de los Abencerrages, the, 72
Sala de los Embajadores, the, at the Alhambra, 38, 41
Salamanca, 37, 80, 88, 89, 91, 92, 95;
Ford’s picture, 209, 212
Salic Law, the, set aside in favour of Isabella, 5, 96, 97
Salsa de Zandunga, 139
_Sam Slick_, 167
San Diego, Jesuit convent at, 1;
Ford’s child buried at, 98
San Felipe de Xativa: _see_ Xativa
San Fernando’s Monks, 39
San Ignacio, Cueva de, 55
San Lorenzo, Duchess of, 66
San Lorenzo, Duke of, 87
San Martin, Bishop of Barcelona, 110
San Martin, General, 110
San Miguel, Evaristo, 4
San Pedro, vespers of, 125
San Yuste, convent, 88, 92, 190
Sancho IV. (El Bravo), 84
Sandridge, 162, 164
Santa Cruz, Marques de, 140, 141
Santa Engracia, convent at Zaragoça, 55, 64
Santiago, 92
Sarah, 69
Sarsfield, General, 91
“la Sartenilla de Andalucia” (Ecija), 39
Sartorius, Admiral Sir George, 101ⁿ
Schepeler, his _Histoire de la Révolution en Espagne_, 193
Scott, Sir Walter, 107
Scrope, William, his _Art of Deer-stalking_ (1838), 167
Segovia, 59
Selkirk, Lord, 167
_Semilasso in Africa_, Ford’s article on, 158
Senior, William Nassau, 155
Seu, the, 55
Seville, Mr. Wetherell’s tannery at, 1; 11-12;
Game at, 18, 19;
spring climate, 22;
floods at, 23;
taken by Mohammed I., 59;
carnival at, 79; 94;
cholera at, 127
Sheets, at the Alcazar, 100
Shirreff, Captain, port admiral at Gibraltar, 2, 22, 23, 80, 116, 117
Sicily, trip to, 172
“Sidi Habismilk” (Borrow’s Arabian horse), 191
Sierra Leone, 197
Sierra Morena, the, 33, 109
Sierra Nevada, the, 46, 50, 54
Smiles, Samuel, his _Memoir of John Murray_ quoted, 181, 182
Socrates, 150
Sorauren (or Sauroren), 212
Soto de Roma, Duke of Wellington’s property at, 3, 37
Southampton, 170
Southernhay, Exeter, 135-7
Southey, Robert, his _History of the Peninsular War_, 193
Spagnoletto, 54
Spain, political condition of, 3-5;
description of, 6;
fresh outbreak in, 188
_Spanish-Bull-feasts and Bull-fights_, Ford’s article on, 163, _seq._
Spring Rice, Mr., 219
Stalking-horse, the, 18
Standish, Mr. Hall, 8, 10, 70, 76
_Star_, H.M.S., 198
Starke, Mariana, her _Travels in Europe_, 177
Stewart, ----, 169
Stoke Gabriel, 161
Stroud, returns Lord John Russell, 148
Style, Ford’s, 139-44, 159, 160
Surplice, the white, 194, 195
Tafilet, 120
Talavera, 32, 77;
battle of, Ford’s picture, 209
Tangier, 112, 117, 118
Tariff, the, 184
Tariffa, 43, 84, 85;
women at, 85; 138
Tarragona, 55, 58
Tartana, 56
Telbin’s Diorama, 202
Terni, falls at, 171
Tertulia, 16, 65
Tetuan, 112, 116, 119;
description of, 120
Theatre, the Spanish, Ford’s article on, 158
Thurtell, Mr., 191
“Tia Antonia”: _see_ Francisca de Molina
Tierney, 17
“Tigers, the,” 44, 114
Tio, Jorge, 55
Tiles (_azulejos_), 82, 83, 148
Toledo, 53, 92, 185
_Tom Brown’s School Days_, 134ⁿ;
reviewed by Ford, 134ⁿ, 218
Toreadors, 103ⁿ
de la Torre, Frasquito, and his robbers, 86
Torrijos, General, 19, 21, 31, 72;
lands near Malaga, 73;
surrenders, 73;
death of, 73
Toulouse, 170
Tragala, the, 4
Transportation, Sir W. Molesworth and, 215
Travelling in Spain, 6, 28, 29;
in Morocco, 119
Triana, suburb of Seville, 24
Triunfo, the, 38
Twickenham, 208
Tyrwhitt, Edmund, 206
Tyrwhitt, Sir Henry, 206
Tyrwhitt-Jones, Sir T., Bart., 206
Urdax, Moreno murdered at, 73
Valdepeñas, 30, 66, 126, 153
Valdès, General, 136
Valencia, 54, 55, 57, 58;
pictures at, 60
Valladolid, 59, 81, 89, 93
Vega, the, 39, 83
Vega, Lope de, 89
Vejer, fight at, 20, 26; 85
Velazquez, 96;
Ford’s Life of, 184, 185
Venta de Cardenas, the, 30
Venta de Quesada, the, 30
Vera, capture of, 136
Via Babuino, the, 175
Vigo, the _Hermes_ at, 116
Villiers, George, Minister at Madrid, 124, 125, 127;
his dinners, 134
“Viscarium diaboli,” 138
Visiting, 16, 17;
in Morocco, 119
Vitoria, 94;
Ford’s picture, 209, 212
_Wasp_, H.M.S., 197
Watches, cheap, 50
Water at the Alhambra, 42, 44, 47
Waterloo, 212, 217
Watt, James, 107
Weare, Mr., 191
Wellesley, Henry, 95
Wellington, Duke of, 3, 10, 13, 32,
37, 51, 82, 91, 92, 94, 128, 167,
184, 187, 193, 209, 210, 212, 214
_Western Times_, the, 198
Westmorland, Lord, 107
Wetherell, Mr., his tannery at Seville, 1
Wetherell, Sir Charles, 52
Weymouth, 170, 186, 188
White, Mr. Fernando, 16
Widdrington: _see_ Samuel Edward Cook
Wilkie, David, 170
Williams, Don Julian, Consul at Seville, 72, 82
“Wilsons,” Ford’s, 176
Winchester, 219
Women, the “viscarium diaboli,” 138
Xativa, San Felipe de, 54, 56, 57
Xeres, 72, 76, 79, 84, 86, 87, 138
Xenil, the, cypresses from, 146
_Yes or No_, 169
Zafra, 89, 92
Zagal, the, 35, 134
Zamarra, the, 173, 191
Zamora, 94
Zandunga, salsa de, 139
Zaragoça, 54, 55;
the Maid of, 55;
first siege of, 55;
second siege of, 56; 57, 59, 61
_Zincali_, Borrow’s, 179, 183
Zouave medals, 217
Zurbaran, 200
_Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England._
FOOTNOTES:
[1] General Sir George Don.
[2] The free warehousing of goods at the Port of Cadiz was permitted
from 1828 to 1832, when the increase of smuggling led to its
abandonment.
[3] The Marques de las Amarillas, who had been War Minister in 1820,
was nominated by Ferdinand VII. to the Council of “Regency.” He was
appointed Captain-General of Andalusia in 1832.
[4] Don Julian Williams, Consul at Seville, and, in Ford’s opinion, the
best judge of Spanish pictures then living.
[5] Lord Lyndhurst, according to Greville (_Memoirs_, ed. 1888, vol.
ii. p. 69), expected that the Great Seal would be put in commission,
and that, after a few months, he would fill the office again.
Brougham’s acceptance of the Lord Chancellorship upset his calculations.
[6] Greville makes the same criticism, and enumerates six members of
the Grey family who were provided for in the distribution of offices.
(_Ibid._, p. 80.)
[7] _Bible in Spain_ (ed. 1896), vol. i. p. 181.
[8] _Bible in Spain_, p. 204.
[9] _A Summer in Andalucia_ (G. Dennis), vol. i., p. 264, 2 vols. 8vo,
London, 1839.
[10] Mr. (afterwards Sir John) Brackenbury, the Consul at Cadiz.
[11] Samuel Edward Cook, Captain in the Royal Navy, assumed in 1840 the
name of Widdrington. He published in 1834 _Sketches in Spain during
1829-32_ (London, 2 vols. 8vo). He paid a second visit to Spain in
1843, accompanied by Professor Daubeny, then Professor of Botany and
Chemistry at Oxford. Of this visit Captain Widdrington gives an account
in his _Spain and the Spaniards in 1843_ (London, 2 vols. 8vo, 1844).
[12] _L’Espagne sous Ferdinand VII._ Par le Marquis Astolphe de
Custine. 4 tomes, 12º, Bruxelles, 1838.
[13] “Widow of a Brigadier” at Granada, says Captain Cook (_Sketches in
Spain_, vol. i., p. 327).
[14] “Ally Croaker” is a song in Foote’s comedy _The Englishman in
Paris_ (1753): it was sung by Miss Macklin to the guitar.
[15] Alluding to the name assumed by the husband of Mrs. Ford in _The
Merry Wives of Windsor_.
[16] Half a farthing the pitcher.
[17] Probably Ford had advised Addington to wear a cheap watch for fear
of brigands. To have no watch at all was construed as an attempt to
cheat the robber of his legitimate reward, and exposed a traveller to
worse treatment than a slender purse.
[18] In 1830 the Parliamentary area of the corrupt Borough of East
Retford was enlarged by the addition of the Hundred of Bassetlaw,
in which the delinquent borough was situated (1 Wm. IV. c. 74). The
borough electorate was thus increased by the forty-shilling freeholders
who already voted in the elections for their county. (Porritt’s
_Unreformed House of Commons_, vol. i. p. 16.)
[19] The guitars made at Cadiz by Juan Pajez, and his son Josef rank
with the violins of Stradivarius. The best have a backboard of dark
wood called _Palo Santo_.
[20] Vicente Joanes, or Juanes (1523-1579).
[21] Francisco Ribalta (1551-1628).
[22] _Spain in 1830._ By H. D. Inglis, 2 vols. 8vo, London, 1831.
[23] Mohammed I. (Ibn-al-Ahmar), 1238-71, is said to have begun the
Alhambra in 1248. When he returned from the surrender of Seville, his
subjects saluted him by the title _galib_ or conqueror. He replied “_Le
galib ile Allah_” (“There is no conqueror but God”). The words are
everywhere introduced in the building as the founder’s motto. _El Rey
chico_ was the name given to Abu Abdullah (corrupted by the Spaniards
into Boabdila), the last Moorish King of Granada.
[24] _El Santo Rostro_, the impression of our Saviour’s face on the
handkerchief of St. Veronica, was only shown to the public on great
festivals.
[25] Ford’s _Handbook for Travellers in Spain_ is dedicated to Sir
William Eden, Bart., “in remembrance of pleasant years spent in
well-beloved Spain.”
[26] Don Juan Antonio Monet, appointed Minister of War October 1832.
[27] The village of Arapiles was the Duke of Wellington’s position at
the battle of Salamanca, July 22nd, 1812.
[28] The visit which John Frederick Lewis (1805-76) paid to Spain
(1832-4) was a turning-point in his artistic career. Till then he
had devoted himself almost exclusively to animals. His _Sketches and
Drawings of the Alhambra_ were published in 1835, and his _Sketches
of Spain and Spanish Character_ in 1836. Frederick Christian Lewis,
the father of “Spanish” Lewis, was a well-known engraver and landscape
painter.
[29] The Infante, Francisco de Paula, youngest child of Maria Luisa,
wife of Charles IV., was said to be her son by Godoy. He married the
Princess Carlota, sister of Queen Christina and the Duchesse de Berry.
His son was King Consort of Isabella II. (1846).
[30] _A cuarto_ is a copper coin of the value of four _maravedis_, i.e.
about a farthing.
[31] Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir George) Sartorius, was in 1831
appointed to command the Portuguese fleet acting for Maria da Gloria
against Dom Miguel. His command was successful. But the final blow
was struck by Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir Charles) Napier, who
succeeded him in June 1833. Napier destroyed Dom Miguel’s fleet off
Cape St. Vincent, July 3rd, 1833. The news reached London on July 14th,
“to the great delight of the Whigs and equal mortification of the
Tories” (_Greville Memoirs_, ed. 1888, vol. iii. p. 9).
[32] The _Maestranza_ was a corporation of gentlemen, instituted by
Charles V., to improve the breed of horses, encourage equestrian
exercises, and control the management of amphitheatres. Men of rank
and good family, like Don Rafael Guzman, rarely adopted the profession
of _toreador_. But the Infante, Don Francisco, was at the head of a
movement to revive the art of bull-fighting.
[33] Sir Walter Scott died September 21st, 1832.
[34] See page 1.
[35] The Egyptian troops under Ibrahim Pacha, son of Mehemet Ali,
defeated the Turks at Konieh, December 21st, 1832. The Sultan appealed
for aid to the Czar, who ordered 30,000 troops and 12 sail of the line
to go to the protection of Constantinople. Further hostilities were
averted by the treaty of Kutayah, May 1833.
[36] The capture of Alhama, the key to Granada, February 28th, 1482,
prepared the way for the expulsion of the Moors. _Ay de mi, Alhama!_
(“Woe is me, Alhama!”) is the refrain of Byron’s “very mournful ballad”
(_Poems_, vol. iv., pp. 529-34, ed. 1901).
[37] _Spanish Bull-feasts and Bull-fights._ By Richard Ford. _Quarterly
Review_, No. CXXIV., October 1838, pp. 395-6.
[38] Sir Edmund Head wrote, among other works and translations, _A
Handbook of the History of the Spanish and French Schools of Painting_
(London, 1848), which was reviewed by Ford in the Quarterly Review, No.
CLXV., June 1848, pp. 1-37.
[39] A volume of the sketches of David Roberts was published in 1837,
under the title of _Picturesque Sketches in Spain_.
[40] James Ford (1797-1877) was ordained in 1821, and became a
Prebendary of Exeter Cathedral in 1849. A good classical scholar, he
was a voluminous writer, chiefly on religious and moral subjects. In
1825 he married Jane Frances Nagle. Their eldest daughter married
Thomas Hughes, the author of _Tom Brown’s School Days_, which Richard
Ford, himself a contemporary of Arnold at Winchester, reviewed in the
_Quarterly Review_ for October 1857, the last article he ever wrote.
[41] General Manuel Llauder commanded the Royalist troops against the
Liberal leaders Mina and Valdès in Navarre, and by the capture of
Vera, October 1830, had suppressed the rising. As Inspector-General
of Infantry, he was chosen by Queen Christina, in October 1832, to
replace the Conde de España, an avowed Carlist, as Captain-General of
Catalonia. Ford probably means that Llauder, who at first had been
inclined to moderate Liberalism, grew reactionary in his views. It was
his later political opinions which made his appointment as Minister of
War in 1835 so unpopular, and in July 1835 led to his expulsion from
Barcelona.
[42] James Howell’s _Epistolæ Ho-elianæ; Familiar Letters, Domestic and
Foreign, etc._, 4 vols., 1645-55.
[43] The _Itinéraire descriptif de l’Espagne_ (par Alexandre de
Laborde, 5 tomes, Paris, 1806-21) was edited by Bory de Saint Vincent
in 1827, who, in 1823, had published a _Guide du Voyageur en Espagne_
(Paris, 1823).
[44] The two articles, one on the Spanish Theatre, the other a review
of _Semilasso in Africa_, appeared in No. CXVII. of the _Quarterly
Review_ (July 1837), pp. 62-87 and 133-64 respectively.
[45] Mariana Starke wrote _Travels in Europe for the use of Travellers
on the Continent, and likewise in the Island of Sicily. To which is
added an account of the remains of ancient Italy_. (1st Edition, 1820;
8th Edition, 1833.)
[46] Reprinted from the _Memoir of John Murray_. By Samuel Smiles, vol.
ii. pp. 491-2.
[47] _The Bible in Spain._ By George Borrow, London, 1842 (2 vols.
12mo).
[48] “Mr. Borrow’s book on the _Gipsies of Spain_, published a couple
of years ago, was so much and so well reviewed (though not, to our
shame be it said, in our own journal), that we cannot suppose his name
is new to any of our readers.”--_Quarterly Review_, No. CXLI. (Dec.
1842), p. 169.
[49] ‘Meta’ Ford, born October 1840, the only child of Richard Ford’s
second wife, married Oswald John Frederick Crawford, and died in 1899.
She inherited much of her father’s wit, love of art, and conversational
ability.
[50] _Histoire de la Révolution en Espagne._ 3 vols. Leipzig, 1829-31.
[51] Georgina Ford married the Rev. Mowbray Northcote, third and
youngest son of Sir Stafford Henry Northcote, Bart., of Pynes, near
Exeter.
[52] Mary Jane Ford married Edmund Tyrwhitt, second son of Sir T.
Tyrwhitt Jones, Bart.
[53] Miss Caroline Molesworth, Mrs. Ford’s aunt, was a distinguished
botanist and meteorologist, whose scientific papers were edited by Miss
Ormerod (_Cobham Journals: Meteorological Observations_, London, 1880,
8vo).
[54] He also reviewed Larpent’s _Journal_ in the _Edinburgh Review_ for
July 1853 (vol. xcviii. pp. 216-40).