CHAPTER XXVII.

THE HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.

A Glance at its History--Louis XIV. and Mme. de Maintenon--The

Pensioners--Their Characteristics and Mode of Life.

Another of the most notable buildings on the left bank of the Seine is

the Hôtel des Invalides. “There is no institution more worthy of

respect,” said Montesquieu, “than the Hôtel des Invalides. If I were a

prince I would rather have founded this establishment than have won

three battles.”

[Illustration: STATUE OF NAPOLEON. (_Formerly on the Vendôme Column, now

in the Invalides._)]

Before its institution Paris was full of old soldiers, mutilated,

miserable, and begging their bread. Nevertheless, they inspired a

natural and just interest as long ago as the time of Charlemagne, who

assigned them to the care of the priories and abbeys. “His successors,”

says M. de Chamberet in his “Histoire des Invalides,” “continued the

work of charity. When all the places in the religious houses were full,

assistance was given to the old soldiers, and in some cases fixed

pensions. But they were for the most part in deplorable circumstances.

Philip Augustus, the first of our kings who maintained a standing army,

conceived the idea of creating special establishments for his old

soldiers, and his grandson Saint Louis, on his return from the Crusades,

carried out to a certain degree the project formed by Philip Augustus.

The institution he founded was intended, however, for the reception only

of men of birth who had been blinded by the burning sands of Palestine.

The asylum, named Les Quinze-Vingts, was intended in fact for the blind,

and in connection with its original object the name has been preserved.”

Charles VI. did nothing; nor, during the English invasion and

occupation, would it have been possible to do much. Charles VII. did

very little, and Louis XI. followed the example of his predecessor.

Louis XII., the “father of his people,” Francis I., the “father of

letters,” and Henri II., the noble husband of Catherine de Médicis,

occupied themselves more or less with the fate of old and wounded

soldiers. Finally, on the 28th of October, 1568, Charles IX. published a

decree regulating the admission of wounded veterans to the priories and

abbeys. Under various pretexts old soldiers, it would seem, had been

admitted into religious houses without sufficient authority. The

ecclesiastical bodies complained of having these warriors quartered upon

them, and the warriors on their side complained that no provision was

made for their declining years. At length the matter received the

serious attention of Henri IV. Wishing to appease the ecclesiastics, but

at the same time not to neglect the old soldiers with whose aid he had

conquered his kingdom, he conceived the idea--which had already occurred

to more than one of his predecessors--of creating a special asylum for

both officers and men. In confirmation of his project, he issued an

edict in April, 1600, and letters patent in January, 1605, though his

death in 1610 prevented the founding of the establishment.

[Illustration: DOME OF THE HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.]

Far from prosecuting his idea, Marie de Médicis, now declared regent,

suppressed, by an order of the Council of State, the Military Houses of

Christian Charity and the House of Lourcine; and she afterwards

commanded that the mutilated officers and soldiers should go, as in the

past, to find shelter as recluses in the abbeys and priories liable for

their maintenance.

This unsatisfactory system led to all kinds of abuses, and the

complaints of the monastic brotherhoods at length assumed an absolutely

violent character. Louis XIII., to put an end to such a condition of

things, established, by an edict of November, 1633, under the title of

“Commanderie de St. Louis,” a community in which wounded military

veterans could be housed and fed for the rest of their lives. The want

of funds, however, and preoccupations of one kind and another, prevented

the prosecution of this scheme, which made no progress until Richelieu

took it in hand and on the 7th of August, 1834, continued the work at

his own expense. Unfortunately, however, just when the new institution

was on the point of being inaugurated (the public sheets had pompously

announced it, and a procession of the Commanderie of Saint Louis, with

flag and banner, had proclaimed it in the streets) the whole thing was

suddenly and unaccountably abandoned.

The old soldiers were still lamentably unprovided for when this ancient

grievance forced itself upon the notice of Louis XIV. Paris was just

then inundated with soldiers reduced to the last extremity, although an

ordinance of the 7th of January, 1644, required them to be sent out of

the town as quickly as possible, and despatched to the frontiers, where,

it was said, a subsistence was assured to them. Another decree strictly

forbade them to solicit alms. Both edicts, however, were in practice

ignored. Some of the invalids continued to stay in Paris; others went

into the provinces to carry with them disorder and scandal. In 1670 a

royal edict was issued ordering the immediate construction of the Hôtel

des Invalides; and, pending its completion, part of the funds set apart

for it were employed for renting in the Rue du Cherche-Midi an immense

house, which served as refuge for the future pensioners. It is true that

the religious chapters, who had to bear a share in the expense, showed a

great disinclination to pay; but Louvois, who had the matter in hand,

would by no means allow them to hang back, and in 1674 the veterans were

transferred to their new abode. One fine day in October the king drove

up to the institution in a magnificent carriage drawn by eight white

horses, and followed by numerous equipages. At two o’clock a parade of

the veterans began on the esplanade, where they marched three abreast.

Two soldiers, well-nigh centenarians, who had served at the battles of

Arques and of Ivry, headed the procession. On a subsequent occasion

Louis XIV. paid a second visit to the Invalides, accompanied by Madame

de Maintenon. As soon as his carriage entered the gate, several of the

veterans got in front of the body-guard forming the escort and kept them

back, saying that from the moment His Majesty entered the place he

should have no other guard than his old servants. Those who had defended

him on the battle-field could, they declared, look after him quite well

whenever he was pleased to come and visit them. A lively altercation

took place on this point, and attracted the attention of the king, who,

informed of what had occurred, ordered the captain of his guards to

withdraw outside the building, adding that in future whenever he visited

the place he would confide his person to his dear old disabled soldiers.

[Illustration: DORMER WINDOW ON THE FAÇADE, HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.]

[Illustration: DORMER WINDOW ON THE FAÇADE, HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.]

Just as the illustrious visitors were going away, one pensioner who was

minus a limb or two approached Madame de Maintenon and presented to her

a plate bearing a piece of the regulation bread surrounded with flowers.

“Permit me, madam,” he said, “to beg you to taste the bread we are fed

with.” The court ladies present took a bite at it and complained of it

to the king, who severely reprimanded the chief official of the

establishment, and ordered him to supply bread of better quality.

[Illustration: THE COURT OF HONOUR, HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.]

The building, meanwhile, was not large enough to accommodate all the

pensioners who had found refuge in the different religious retreats. The

least infirm, therefore, had to yield precedence to their comrades, and

Louvois ordered that forty companies should be despatched to

Montreuil-sur-Mer, others being sent to Havre, Abbeville, and other

fortified towns. Louvois died in 1691, much lamented by the pensioners.

[Illustration: INVALIDES.]

In 1714 the king made a last and lengthy visit to the Invalides. In his

will he commended the establishment to the particular care of his

successors. “The foundation of the Invalides,” says M. Monnier, “is

perhaps the one act of Louis XIV. which has remained popular.” In 1716

Peter the Great visited the Hôtel des Invalides, made a detailed

inspection of it, and tasted the water drunk within its walls. On his

return to Russia he founded an Hôtel des Invalides at St. Petersburg.

To skip over a somewhat uneventful period to the Revolution, the home of

the pensioners was on the 14th of July, 1789, seized, without

resistance, by the mob, who took possession of all the guns and carried

them off.

The Constituent Assembly, despite the opposition of its military

committee, maintained the Hôtel des Invalides. The Convention placed it

under the special surveillance of the Legislative Body and, in some

particulars, ameliorated the lot of the pensioners and their families.

As for Napoleon, whether as First Consul or as Emperor, he took a great

interest in the Invalides, whose population he did not allow to

diminish; and the same solicitude has been displayed by the more pacific

governments which have succeeded him.

Ever since the building was first inhabited, the pensioners--old,

indeed, but still gay of heart--have from time to time amused themselves

at the expense of their sometimes too curious visitors. Chief amongst

the jokes played upon such persons must be mentioned the

popularly-reported one of the “invalid with the wooden head.” This

traditional joke dates from almost the foundation of the institution,

and a manuscript in the library of the arsenal speaks of it in these

terms:--

[Illustration: TOMB OF NAPOLEON]

“As people of all kinds come to visit the house, certain playful

soldiers have invented a method of mystification for those whom it is

easy to take in, and to whom they give information as to whatever

sights of curiosity or interest the place contains. They recommend them

above all not to quit the place without having seen the invalid with the

wooden head. When the proposition is assented to, they indicate his

corridor and his room, and, as their comrades are in the conspiracy,

they make their victims perform sundry journeys through different parts

of the establishment in quest of a wooden head, which they might really

behold if they looked at themselves in the glass. They are sent from

floor to floor and from room to room by their tormentors, who invent all

kinds of explanations for his absence, such as:--‘He was here a moment

ago; he has gone no doubt to get shaved, and will be back directly. Pray

take a seat.’”

Unprovided, however, as the pensioners are with wooden heads, many of

them, by their various forms of mutilation, afford a sufficiently

curious spectacle to the crowd. Those veterans who have lost the use of

both hands are termed “Manicros.” They have to be specially waited upon

by their comrades, and as it is necessary to remunerate the latter for

their services, a fund for the purpose has been established. There is a

special table for those who, having been wounded in the jaw, cannot

masticate their food. Easily digestible hashes, soups, etc., are

prepared for them by the “sisters”; and their table is furnished with no

niggardly regard for expense.

The death of Louis XIV. was keenly regretted by the pensioners, who sent

representatives to his funeral clad in deepest mourning. The death of

Louis XV., who was more beloved by his people generally, caused little

sorrow at the Invalides, the pensioners viewing the funeral cortège, as

it passed along, with frigid eye.

Coming to Napoleon, we find him conferring honour upon the Invalides by

celebrating there the anniversary of the taking of the Bastille. He

wished, moreover, on this solemn occasion, to consolidate the growing

institution of the Legion of Honour. A salute of several cannons from

within the precincts announced the emperor’s arrival. He took his seat

upon a throne. Behind him were ranged the colonels-general of the guard,

the governor, and the great officers of the crown. Meanwhile the

empress, accompanied by the princesses, her sisters, and her maids of

honour, had been received by the grand master of the ceremonies, who had

led her to his tribune.

The cardinal legate, who was to officiate, took up his position beneath

a daïs to the right of the altar, the cardinal archbishop of Paris and

his clergy placing themselves on the left. Behind the high altar, on an

immense amphitheatre, seven hundred invalids and two hundred pupils of

the Polytechnic School were already stationed, while the nave contained

the great officers and the members of the Legion of Honour.

When the cardinal legate had celebrated divine service the grand

chancellor was conducted to the foot of the throne, proclaimed the

object of the institution of the Legion of Honour, and enumerated the

duties which were incumbent upon its members. This discourse at an end,

Napoleon received the oaths of each member. The decorations were borne

in basins of gold, and the first one was conferred upon the emperor

himself, by the hand of his brother, Prince Louis, future king of

Holland.

The most remarkable member of the Legion of Honour who ever dwelt in the

Hôtel des Invalides was a widow named Brulon, who, in times past,

disguised in male uniform, had seen no end of military service,

fighting, sometimes by her husband’s side, with distinguished valour.

She had been through seven campaigns, and bore the marks of three very

decided wounds. Entering the ranks in 1811, she became a corporal the

following year, a sub-lieutenant by royal mandate in 1822, and a member

of the Legion of Honour in 1847. She died in 1848, deeply lamented by

all who knew her, none of whom had ever seen her in feminine attire.

The Invalides pensioner, although, as we have seen, he will sometimes

have his joke, is, as a rule, a morose old grumbler. His tendencies are

those of a recluse. Although by the rules of the hotel he has to live,

eat, drink, and sleep in common with his fellow pensioners, he keeps

himself aloof, seldom seeks society, and is the reverse of

communicative, “garrulous old age” being a phrase hardly applicable to

one who, placed amongst men with the same experiences as himself, does

not find them such appreciative and inspiring auditors as persons from

the world outside. His friendships, in fact, are nearly always formed

with civilians, though the decree which forbade the excursion of

pensioners beyond the precincts of the hotel has reduced the number and

intimacy of these friendships very considerably. A second decree, issued

by the Minister of War, prohibited pensioners from performing any work

in public places. Previously they had been employed to guard civic

monuments, and to assist at constructions and demolitions; but it was

found that the money they so earned was too often spent in a manner

which neither morality nor good taste could sanction.

The grounds in front of the hotel contain a large flower-bed, beyond

which are a number of small gardens belonging to the pensioners, who

take a great pride in them, and adorn them with a beautiful display of

flowers. It is noticeable, however, that all the gardens are alike, a

grotto of shells, among other characteristic objects, belonging to each.

These little plots of ground, so gay with bloom in the summer, are the

delight of the children who come with their parents to visit some old

grandfather who has lost a limb or two in the defence of his country.

[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON.]

The uncommunicativeness of the pensioner is attributed by M. Monnier to

his having nothing to communicate. “If you ask him for his

reminiscences,” says this admirable writer, “you will be astonished to

find that, much as he has seen, he has learned little and retained

little.” If, for instance, he is spoken to about Egypt, he declares that

he has found Egypt just like any other country. “What about the

inhabitants?” says the inquirer. “The same as any other inhabitants,” is

the reply. “But the costumes?” “What costumes?” “Their different

costumes. How are they dressed?” “Like us--they do not go naked.” “And

the pyramids--those monuments of another age--which rise heavenwards and

lose themselves in the clouds?” “Same thing as occurs here--at Boulogne

and Calais, by the sea shore.” The visitor gives this gentleman up and

passes to another, who has been to China, and who declares that the

habits of the Chinese are identical with those of the French. “But how

about their temples, their pagodas?” suggests the visitor. “Do you mean

their houses?” “Yes, the places where they live, and those where they

pray.” “Just like our own, with doors and windows--everything the same

as here.” It is fair to suppose that M. Monnier, who is nothing if not a

humourist, was so amused at the manner in which some few of the old

soldiers had gone through the world with their eyes shut that he found

the temptation to generalise this individual characteristic a trifle too

strong for him.

The first stone of the Hôtel des Invalides was laid on the 30th

November, 1670. Four years afterwards the place was ready for the

reception both of officers and men. The plans of the whole building,

with the exception of the dome, were drawn up by Libéral Bruant, who

directed the works until his death. His duties were then taken up by

Mansard, who made no change in his predecessor’s design, though he

proposed the addition of a dome for which he submitted plans, and which

was in due time constructed.

The Hôtel des Invalides stands in view of the Seine, at the extremity of

a large esplanade planted with trees. In the middle of this esplanade

there used to be a fountain which, under the First Empire, surmounted

the lion of St. Mark, transported from Venice. Retaken in 1814 by the

Austrians, the lion was replaced by an enormous fleur-de-lis, for which

the Revolution of July substituted a bust of La Fayette. Bust and

fountain have both disappeared.

On the Esplanade side of the Invalides are ranged a number of cannons,

forming what is called the “triumphal battery,” which sends forth a peal

of thunder on the occasion of some victory or state ceremony. The pieces

are served by the pensioned artillerymen. The “triumphal battery” is

particularly interesting from being largely composed of all kinds of

foreign guns--Austrian, Prussian, Russian, Dutch, Venetian, Algerian,

and Chinese, many of them taken in action.

Behind the “triumphal battery,” screened off by a sort of stone bastion,

are the little gardens cultivated by the pensioners. Farther back is the

principal façade of the hotel, three storeys high, and more than 200

metres wide, surmounted by a row of attics, and pierced with 133

windows. Projecting from the façade is a forepart enclosing a large

arcade, of which the tympan represents Louis XIV. on horseback,

accompanied by Justice and Prudence, two divinities to whom he did not

always lend an ear. This group, the work of Couston, was maltreated by

the Revolution, but restored by Cartellier. On the two sides of the

entrance are the statues of Mars and Minerva, likewise by Couston. At

the angles formed by the forepart and the façade are pedestals

supporting four figures, in bronze, of chained nations, humbling

themselves at the feet of the statue raised to Louis XIV. by Marshal de

la Feuillade on the Place des Victoires and overthrown in 1792. These

figures are executed by Desjardins.

An adequate description of the interior of the Invalides would fill a

small volume. Remarkable by its architecture, it is interesting by the

military relics and trophies preserved in it. A subterranean crypt,

beneath the celebrated “dome,” contains the tomb of Napoleon, whose

remains were conveyed thither from St. Helena.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: LATUDE RECOGNISES D’ALIGRE AT CHARENTON. (_See p.

216._)]

[Illustration: THE LAËNNEC HOSPITAL, RUE DE SÈVRES.]

Old and New Paris: Its History, Its People, and Its Places, v. 2 · 第 27 / 49 章