CHAPTER XIII.

THE PANTHÉON.

The Church of Clovis--The Church of Sainte-Geneviève--France in the

Thirteenth Century--The Building of the New Church under Louis

XV.--Mirabeau and the Constituent Assembly--The Church of

Sainte-Geneviève becomes the Panthéon.

The College of France and the Sorbonne stand close together at the

corner of the Rue Saint-Jacques and the Rue des Écoles; and between the

College of France and the new Sorbonne, on the right, stands the Lyceum

of Louis the Great (Lycée Louis le Grand), formerly a Jesuit college,

founded by the order in 1550 in the Hôtel de Clermont; the property of

Cardinal de Praat in virtue of letters patent which the Parliament of

Paris declined to register until some dozen years after they had been

issued. Expelled from Paris after the attempt made by Jean Châtel on the

person of Henry IV., the Jesuits did not again obtain permission to

teach until 1618. Amongst their celebrated pupils were some who might

well be suspected of having been educated elsewhere--Molière, for

instance, and Voltaire.

Originally known as the College of Clermont, this institution became, in

virtue of letters patent, a royal foundation in 1662, when it received

the name of Louis the Great. It was afterwards, in 1753, connected with

the university. Here, indeed, until the time of the Revolution, the

assemblies of the university were held, as well as those of the “four

nations” included in it. The Revolution brought the Lyceum, with its

monarchical name, to an end; but it was revived at the time of the

Revolution, when it was once more called “Collège Louis le Grand.”

Public institutions, however, like streets, ships, and theatres, change

their names in France with each new form of government. The Lycée Louis

le Grand was called, under the Republic, the Consulate, and the Empire,

the Collège de l’Égalité; and under the Republic of 1848, when M. Carnot

was Minister of Public Instruction, Collège Descartes.

A few more steps, and from the point where the Rue Saint-Jacques is

intersected by the Rue Soufflet, may be perceived the Panthéon, the name

given to the imposing edifice which under monarchical governments has

always been known as the Church of Sainte-Geneviève.

On the site of the Panthéon stood originally a church dedicated by

Clovis to the Holy Apostles. It was destroyed by the Normans in one of

their incursions, and replaced soon afterwards by the Abbey of

Sainte-Geneviève. The bell which tolled in this once-celebrated edifice

hangs to-day in the Lycée Corneille.

For a number of centuries the Church of Sainte-Geneviève seems to have

had an uneventful history. Dulaure, however, in that strange book, “Les

Singularités Historiques,” gives some remarkable details in regard to

the life led and the actions performed by the clergy attached to

Saint-Geneviève, and indeed by the French clergy generally.

Under the reign of Louis VII., styled the Young, Pope Eugène III., says

this writer, driven out of Rome, came in 1145 to Paris, and a few days

after his arrival wished to celebrate mass at the Church of

Sainte-Geneviève. The canons to do him honour brought before the altar a

large silk carpet, on which the Pope knelt to pray. After the mass the

sovereign pontiff retired to the vestry, when his servants, lay and

ecclesiastic, took possession of the carpet, claiming that it belonged

to them simply because the Pope had made use of it. The servants of the

canons being of a different opinion snatched the carpet from the hands

of the Pope’s servants. The carpet, dragged on one side and the other,

gave way and was soon in pieces; the accident caused insults on both

sides followed by blows. The king, who had witnessed the tumult, went

forward to stop it; his authority, however, was powerless against the

fury of the combatants, and in the confusion he himself was struck.

Victory remained with the holders of the place--the attendants in the

Church of Sainte-Geneviève. The Pope’s followers, with torn clothes and

bleeding faces, went before their master, who complained to the king and

begged him to punish the insult. Thereupon the Pope and the king

resolved to change the constitution of the Sainte-Geneviève Monastery.

It was first resolved to send away the canons and replace them by monks

from Cluny, but this idea was abandoned. A new abbé was named and twelve

new canons were introduced from the Abbey of Saint-Victor, who were

formally installed in the Abbey of Sainte-Geneviève, to the great

displeasure of the former canons, who did all in their power to get rid

of these strangers.

They employed against them calumnious threats and even violence. In the

excesses of their animosity they ordered their servants to go in the

night and break in the doors of the church, take possession of the

building, and prevent the new canons from singing the matins, uttering

shrieks which prevented them from being heard.

[Illustration: THE PANTHÉON, FROM THE LUXEMBOURG GARDENS.]

In spite of the precautions taken by the Abbé Suger, in charge of the

church, they took possession of a great portion of the treasure,

detaching from the shrine of Sainte-Geneviève gold ornaments which

weighed fourteen marks, their object being to get together a sum

sufficiently large to send to the Pope in order to prevail upon him to

change his resolution in regard to the monastery. The conduct of the

canons caused all kinds of reports to be circulated; among others one to

the effect that the head of Sainte-Geneviève had been cut off and

removed from her shrine, whereupon the shrine was solemnly opened and

the body of the saint displayed, with its head, while at the same time

the Te Deum was sung.

Those indeed were lawless times; nor had matters improved in Paris in

the next century, when Jacques de Vitry, Archbishop Cardinal and Legate

of the Pope in France, wrote such an account of life in Paris as Pope

Eugène III. would doubtless have approved.

“Although the Lord has said,” wrote Jacques de Vitry in his “Western

History,” “that it is more blessed to give than to receive, the men of

our time, above all those who are in a position to command others, do

not confine themselves to extorting money from their subjects by

requiring from them unlawful presents, or by filling their greedy hands

with the product of the taxes and exactions with which they so unjustly

oppress them; they do far worse. The thefts, the rapines, and the acts

of violence which they exercise, now openly, now in secret on the

wretches under their dependence, render their cruel tyranny

insupportable. These lords, notwithstanding the pompous titles of which

they are so proud, do not omit to go out robbing and to perform the

trade of mere thieves; also that of brigands, for they ravage whole

tracts of country with their incendiarism. They respect nothing, not

even the property of the monasteries, nor of the churches. They profane

even the sanctuary, from which they carry away the objects consecrated

to the celebration of the mass. Whenever, for the slightest causes,

disputes arise between the poor and their lords and masters, the latter

succeed through their satellites in selling the property of these

unhappy beings. On the highways you see them, covered with iron, attack

the passers-by without sparing either the pilgrims or the monks. If they

wish to exercise personal vengeance against simple, innocent men, they

attack them through their bandits, scoundrels who follow the streets of

the towns and boroughs, or who, concealed in secret places, lay traps

for these poor wretches in order to catch them and shed their blood. On

the sea they are pirates, and without fearing the anger of God, they

plunder passengers and merchants, in many cases burning the ships and

drowning in the waves those whom they have despoiled. Princes and nobles

without faith are the associates of these robbers. Far from protecting

their subjects and maintaining them in peace, they oppress them; far

from repressing the rascals and keeping them down through the fear of

punishment, they favour them, become their patrons, and for the money

they receive from them help them in their scandalous actions. The French

nobles are like unclean dogs, who, always famishing, dispute with greedy

crows the flesh of carcases. The nobles, by the agency of their

provosts and their satellites, persecute the poor, rob the widow and the

orphan, lay snares for them, pick quarrels with them, and attribute to

them imaginary crimes in order to extort money. It is a common practice

with them to put in prison and load with chains men who have committed

no offence, and to make these innocent persons support cruel tortures in

order to extract sums of money from them. This is all done in order to

obtain supplies for their prodigality, their luxuries, their

superfluities, their mad expenditure on the vanities of the century, to

pay their usurers, to support mimes, singers, actors, jugglers,

parasites, and flatterers, veritable dogs of their courtyards.”

“This sketch,” says Dulaure, “traced by a man of serious character,

proves how great was the evil, how excessive was the disorder, how

entirely all principles were subverted. Such were the knights of the

twelfth and thirteenth centuries, whose loyalty, so much exalted in

novels, in poetical compositions, and on our modern stage, is constantly

disproved by history. These men, to whom so many glorious exploits, so

many generous actions are attributed, were merciless brigands, wretches

who would now figure at the hulks or in the dungeons of Bicêtre.”

[Illustration: PLACE DU PANTHÉON.]

Some idea of the extreme corruption of the French clergy in the

thirteenth century may be formed from a letter written by Pope Innocent

III. in 1203 to the Abbé of Saint-Denis, close to Paris. “There are,” he

said, “in your town priests who, abusing the clerical privilege, go

through the streets at night and visit the most disreputable houses,

breaking in the doors and taking the same liberties with the daughters

of respectable citizens. The provost and the officers of justice, from

respect for the liberties of the clerical order, do not dare to lay

hands on them; and if you, my son, wish to stop these disorders, the

culprits at once appeal to us, invoke our authority, ignore your

jurisdiction, escape the canonical punishment, and continue with

audacity their lawless habits.” The Pope then authorises the Abbé of

Saint-Denis to exercise against these “priestly libertines” all

ecclesiastical powers, without attending to their appeals.

The period of religious and warlike fanaticism was also a period of

licentiousness and persecution.

The Jews, at the chivalrous time of the Crusades, were particularly

unhappy. Their faith, their wealth, their usurious practices, exposed

them at all times to persecution, and the Crusaders, before starting for

the Holy Land, habitually massacred them. Kings drove them from the

country, and then, on payment of large sums, allowed them to return.

Dulaure (“Singularités Historiques”) attributes simply to avarice the

accusations, always justified by the fanaticism of the people, which

rulers brought against them, and which were withdrawn on payment of

money.

In 1290 a woman living at Paris had pawned some clothes for thirty sous

to a Jew named Jonathan, and wishing to take them out for the Easter

holidays without repaying the money advanced, was told, according to her

sworn testimony, that she might do so if she would bring to the Jew a

piece of the Holy Sacrament, which she did. Then the Jew thrust his

penknife into the Host, from which blood flowed in abundance without in

any way terrifying him. Then he took a nail and hammered it into the

Host; threw it into the fire, when it hovered above the flames; plunged

it into a kettle of boiling water, which it reddened with its blood,

receiving meanwhile no injury. These miracles did not frighten Jonathan.

The son of this Jew, seeing Christians go to church, said to them, “It

is useless for you to pray to your God, my father has killed him.” Then

a woman who lived next door to Jonathan entered his house under pretext

of getting a light, and took away the Host in the skirt of her dress;

after which she placed it in a wooden vessel and carried it to the curé

of Saint-Jean-en-Grève, to whom she narrated what she had seen. The

Bishop of Paris had Jonathan arrested, tried to convert him, and as the

Jew refused, burnt him alive.

“Jonathan,” says Dulaure, in commenting on this strange story, the

authenticity of which he regards as undeniable, “possessed a large

fortune. Was he convicted in any legal manner? Why was not the woman

brought to justice who gave the Host to Jonathan? She was more criminal

than the Jew. Everything in this process makes one suspect that an

odious plot had been woven against the Israelite in order to get hold of

his fortune.”

It was not the Jews alone, however, who were maltreated in these cruel

times. How severely Marguerite de Bourgogne, wife of Louis X., and

Blanche and Jeanne de Bourgogne, her sisters-in-law, were punished for

their undeniably licentious lives. The Abbey of Maubuisson, near

Pontoise, was the theatre of their misdeeds. Their principal accomplices

were Philippe and Gauthier d’Aunay, and they were both of them

maltreated, skinned alive, and then decapitated and hung by the arms to

the gallows. A beadle who had been mixed up with the princesses’

intrigues was condemned to the gibbet, and a monk who had played a still

more active part in connection with them was tortured to death. Queen

Marguerite, after being imprisoned in the Château Gaillard with her

sister-in-law Blanche, was strangled there in 1315; Jeanne was detained

in captivity at the Château of Dourdan--that same Jeanne de Bourgogne

who, according to the tradition, threw from the Tour de Nesle into the

Seine the students of whose discretion she wished to make sure.

* * * * *

But to return to the Church of Sainte-Geneviève, which, though by its

site one of the very oldest in Paris, dates, by its structure, only from

the eighteenth century. In 1754 Louis XV., finding himself seriously

ill, vowed “that if, through the intercession of Sainte-Geneviève, he

recovered, he would raise to her honour a new and sumptuous temple.”

Restored to health he showed himself ready to keep his word. The

architect employed to plan the structure was Soufflot, a man imbued with

memories of Rome, where he had passed several years of his life. On the

6th of September, 1764, the first stone of the new church was laid by

Louis XV. The construction had advanced far, and the dome had already

been commenced, when Soufflot perceived with horror that the massive

edifice threatened collapse, ugly cracks showing themselves here and

there in the masonry. In despair, full of self-distrust, and harassed by

the raillery of his critics, Soufflot died in 1720, without seeing the

completion of his work. Rondelet, who took his place, substituted for

the graceful but fragile pilasters and columns of his predecessor, heavy

masonry supports devoid of beauty, but at least capable of keeping the

roof aloft. For the pursuance of his undertaking, however, he required

money, and the want of it more than once suspended or retarded his

operations. Until 1789 the building went on with exasperating slowness.

Then, however, it received an unexpected impetus. Mirabeau had just

died. The Constituent Assembly wished to give the great orator a tomb

worthy of him, and at the same time to create a monument in which might

be brought together the tombs of all those great citizens who had

deserved well of their country: to create a Westminster Abbey. This

monument already existed; for it was precisely a sort of Panthéon that

Soufflot, never suspecting to what purpose his edifice would be turned,

had constructed. “In a civic transport,” says M. E. Quinet, “the

Constituent Assembly baptised with the name of Panthéon a monument which

now for the first time seemed to receive a soul. The church soon became

a temple of Renown--a place where the People gather to pronounce their

judgment on the dead. This is why that colonnade bears its splendours so

high aloft; why the cupola lifts itself up as though it were a crown on

the head of Paris. Here occurs the apotheosis, not of a

shepherdess--Sainte-Geneviève, that is to say--but of France, of the

country, in the form of illustrious men who have gone to breathe the air

of another shore. What had been blamed as superfluous luxury for the

prophetess of Nanterre was assuredly necessary for the glorification of

glorious men. How could the columns be high enough, the capitals proud

enough, the wreaths rich enough to celebrate those to whom their

terrestrial country owed terrestrial honours? The defects which had been

found in the church became so many beauties in the Panthéon.”

The assembly voted the following decree: “Art. I. The new edifice of

Sainte-Geneviève shall be used for the reception of the ashes of the

great men belonging to the period of French liberty. Art. II. The

legislative body shall alone decide to whom this honour is to be

awarded. Art. III. Honoré Riquetti Mirabeau is judged worthy to receive

such honour. Art. IV. The legislature shall not, in the future, have

power to decree this honour to any of its members who may die; that is a

question which shall be decided by the succeeding magistracy. Art. V.

Any exceptions which may be made in favour of great men who died before

the Revolution, shall be decided only by the legislative body. Art. VI.

The directory of the department of the Seine shall with promptitude put

the edifice of Sainte-Geneviève into a condition to fulfil its new

functions, and shall cause to be engraved over the pediment these words,

‘To the great men of a grateful country.’ Art. VII. Until the new church

of Sainte-Geneviève is finished the body of Riquetti Mirabeau shall

repose beside the ashes of Descartes, in the vault of the old church.”

The remains of Voltaire were transported to the Panthéon soon after

those of Mirabeau, and with a pomp no less magnificent. On the 30th of

May, 1791, Gossin, deputy for Bar-le-Duc, addressed the Tribune in an

enthusiastic outburst thus: “It was on the 30th of May that the honours

of sepulture were refused to Voltaire, and it is on the same day that

the national gratitude must acquit itself of its duty of reverence

towards one who has prepared men for toleration and liberty.” The

procession which accompanied the relics of Voltaire on their conveyance

to the Panthéon was imposing in the extreme. Representatives of numerous

corporations and professions attended to do homage to his memory, and at

one point in the cortège eight women dressed in white, and carrying a

statue of Liberty which appeared to be pointing to a complete edition of

Voltaire’s works, were borne along in a gilded car. Finally came the

sarcophagus, drawn by twelve white horses. After halts innumerable the

solemn procession drew up before the Panthéon to the flare of torches.

The name of Panthéon, sufficiently heathen in character, had not

hitherto been applied to the church of Sainte-Geneviève; but it appeared

a few days later in a petition demanding the same honours for Rousseau,

and signed by poets, artists, and scholars. The Assembly would willingly

have acceded, but such was the resistance of the inhabitants of

Montmorency, who eagerly requested that the ashes of this great writer

might be left in their midst, that it deferred its decision.

On the 21st of January, 1793, the Convention decreed that the body of

Lepelletier, deputy of Saint-Fargeau, who had been assassinated for

having voted the death of the king, should be translated to the

Panthéon. Then Marat, to whom, after the stab of Charlotte Corday, the

Convention had already erected a mausoleum on the Place du Carrousel,

was judged worthy of the Panthéon. On the 25th of November, 1793, Marie

Joseph Chénier, speaking before the Tribune, and armed with documents,

proved the transactions which Mirabeau had had with the Court,

contrasting therewith the disinterestedness of Marat, whose remains, as

he eloquently maintained, should displace at the Panthéon those of

Mirabeau, unworthy of such a resting-place. The Convention adopted his

propositions in a decree which was not executed until after the fall of

Robespierre, on the 22nd of September, 1794. The official programme of

the ceremonies, still extant, is interesting enough. After having fixed

the order and the route of the cortège the authors of the programme

added: “The procession will stop when it arrives on the Place of the

Panthéon; a tipstaff of the Convention will advance towards the door of

entrance, and there will be read the decree which excludes from the

Panthéon the relics of Mirabeau. Thereupon the body of Mirabeau shall be

conveyed out of the precincts of the Panthéon, and handed over to the

commissary of police for that section. Then the body of Marat shall be

placed in triumph on a platform elevated in the Panthéon.... All

citizens assisting at this ceremony shall be unarmed.” From the last

injunction it is evident that the authorities feared the possibility of

a riot. Everything, however, passed off quietly. The body of Mirabeau

was laid in a corner of the cemetery of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont.

At length, on the 19th of October, 1794, the turn of Rousseau came. His

body, borne by a deputation of the inhabitants of Ermonville, where he

had breathed his last, was received at the Tuileries, where the future

arch-chancellor pronounced over it an impressive speech. The remains of

the philosopher, enclosed in an urn, were then conveyed to the Panthéon,

escorted by the crowd and preceded by an orchestra playing various airs

from his own “Devin du Village.”

But the political tide was already on the turn. On the 1st of February,

1795, the bust of Marat, placed in several of the theatres and cafés,

was hooted and overthrown. His remains, according to the Abbé de

Montgaillard in his history of the Revolution, were snatched from the

Panthéon, dragged through the streets by young men, and cast amongst the

refuse of the Rue Montmartre--“a tabernacle,” says the abbé, “worthy of

such a god.” This account, however, is inaccurate; it was only Marat’s

effigy which was thrown into the sewer, his relics were transported to

Saint-Étienne-du-Mont.

In the meantime the Panthéon, as a structure, was in a state of neglect.

These installations of illustrious men within its walls had taken place

more or less hastily, and the works were far indeed from completion.

Mercier, in his “Picture of Paris,” thus describes a visit which he paid

to the Panthéon in 1795: “I ventured on the staircases of the edifice,

across ladders, heaps of cement, hammers, long saws and moving

scaffoldings. The least sound reverberated, the least movement seemed to

announce the approaching fall of the dome, and for the moment I imagined

myself interred in the Panthéon without any pleading or contest. When I

quitted the edifice I experienced the pleasure which is felt by sailors

and warriors at the end of tempests and combats: that of discovering

that I was alive.” By the time the Panthéon had been put into a

satisfactory condition the Empire had come into existence, and Napoleon,

who had just re-established public worship, wished to present the

Republican temple to the clergy, whilst maintaining the purpose for

which the Constituent Assembly had designed it. A decree, dated 20th of

February, 1806, dedicated the Panthéon to public worship under the name

of Church of Sainte-Geneviève, and consecrated it as a sepulchre for

citizens who, in the career of arms or in that of the administration or

of letters, had rendered eminent services to their country. The remains

of thirty-nine persons, not all of them truly illustrious, were

deposited in the Panthéon under the Empire; but the fall of the Empire

brought about another change. Louis XVIII. suppressed the necropolis,

and removed from the pediment the famous legend, “Aux grands hommes, la

patrie reconnaissante.”

The last illustrious men admitted to the honours of the temple supposed

to have been erected to them by a “grateful country” were Victor Hugo,

the great Carnot, the deputy Baudin, killed on a barricade during the

_coup d’état_ of 1851, General Marceau, and La Tour d’Auvergne, “the

first grenadier of France,” whose name, by order of Napoleon, used to be

pronounced at every roll-call of his regiment, when this answer was

solemnly given: “Mort sur le champ de bataille.”

[Illustration: WELL IN THE COURTYARD, CLUNY MUSEUM.]

The large open space to which the Panthéon gives its name--Place du

Panthéon--was the scene of terrible conflicts between the troops and the

insurgents during the Revolution of February, 1848, and again during the

unsuccessful insurrection of June in the same year, when troops and

national guards all took part against the workmen set free to starve or

fight by the closing of the national workshops which, for financial

reasons, could no longer be carried on, and against the social

democrats who placed themselves at their head. On the northern side of

the Place stands the Sainte-Geneviève Library, which, like all the Paris

libraries, is open to all comers.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE PANTHÉON.]

A foreigner who happened to visit the Quartier Latin, and observed the

students strolling, lounging, or driving off to the theatre or a ball,

might fancy that they led an easy and idle life, but he would be

mistaken. These youths, ardent pleasure-seekers as they are, give

three-fourths of their time to severe study. Earlier in the day a

visitor to the Rue Saint-Jacques might have seen them waiting

impatiently for the classes to begin at the College of France; might

have seen them issue thence, full of enthusiasm for the great thinkers

of their time, and wend their way to this or that public institution

affording facilities for private study. A proportion of them would be

found to resort to the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, where a noble

collection of books ranged on shelves adorned with delicate sculptures

may well conduce to the tranquil exercise of the mind.

The first library of Sainte-Geneviève, which was founded as a private

institution in 1624, and became national property in 1790, occupied in

the buildings of the old abbey of the same name a habitation which had

to be abandoned some forty years ago, because the building began

everywhere to crumble and threaten collapse. The new library was

finished and inaugurated in 1850; and although the external architecture

is somewhat plain and heavy, the interior is highly artistic, with many

a mural painting by master hands. Formerly this library possessed a very

curious collection of crayon sketches, portraits of personages of the

sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, which were transferred by an

imperial decree to the library of the Rue de Richelieu. It can support

this loss, however, rich as it is in quaint and valuable specimens of

art. For its manuscripts, with certain exceptions, the Bibliothèque

Sainte-Geneviève is not remarkable; though it boasts a particularly fine

collection of old printed books, with bindings sumptuous and fantastic

enough to turn the head of a bibliophile.

Dependent on the church of Sainte-Geneviève, which it was destined to

survive, is the church of St. Stephen-of-the-Mount. Among the wonders of

Saint-Étienne-du-Mont is the tomb of Sainte Geneviève, whose relics,

patroness saint of Paris as she was, were burnt in 1793 by the Paris

Commune in the Place de Grève. During the fête of Sainte Geneviève, from

the 3rd to the 11th of January, the church is crowded with pilgrims from

the Paris suburbs to the number, it is calculated, of more than one

hundred thousand. In the chapel immediately facing the altar stands a

monument which contains the heart of Monseigneur Sibour, Archbishop of

Paris, assassinated on the 3rd of January, 1857, in this very church,

when he was opening the nine days’ service in honour of Sainte

Geneviève, by a priest whom he had interdicted. The predecessor of

Monseigneur Sibour, Monseigneur Affre, was shot dead by the insurgents

of June, 1848, when exhorting them from a barricade to cease fighting.

His successor, Monseigneur Darboy, was put to death with the other

hostages whom the Paris Commune in 1871 had taken with the view of

securing for the Communards made prisoners by the troops the character

of prisoners of war.

[Illustration]

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