The main building of old Fort Niagara, “The Castle,” is probably

the oldest piece of masonry in the State of New York, having been

constructed by the French in 1726. The stone-work of the barracks,

a structure 134 by 24 feet with walls only eight feet in height,

goes back to 1757, and in this year was, also, built the magazine.

The bake-house, replacing a former one on the same site, was put up

by the British in 1762 and the two stone block-houses by them in

1771 and 1773.

In the two hundred and eighty-eight and a half acres of the

government reservation here one is in touch visibly with the Past.

And what deeds of the Past these old stone buildings might tell if

they were given power of speech!

The name Niagara is of Iroquois origin, as are so many names of

New York State, and is of ancient application to the river and the

falls which bear them. The falls of the Niagara are indicated on

Champlain’s map of 1632 and in 1648 are spoken of by the Jesuit

Rugueneau as “a cataract of frightful height.” It is certain that

the indefatigable emissaries of the order of which he was a member

had penetrated to the region of the great falls before this. In

1678 the falls were visited by the Friar Louis Hennepin, who drew

a curious picture of them, still preserved, and gave a more curious

and exaggerated description.

[Illustration:

Copyright, Detroit Publishing Company

FORT NIAGARA, ON NIAGARA RIVER, N. Y.]

In the year that the good Friar Hennepin was paying his respects

to Nature’s great wonder, Robert Cavelier Sieur de la Salle was

building his fort at Frontenac, now Kingston, Canada West, and in

1675 King Louis XIV, that brilliant and indefatigable monarch of

France, whose legislative labors in opposition to race suicide

in Canada justly earned him the title of the Father of Canada,

bestowed upon our cavalier a large grant of land near his fort.

La Salle, inspired by the brilliant discoveries of Marquette and

Joliet in the region farther west than that wherein he had his

bailiwick, determined to explore the lands south of Ontario and

to connect the territories which he hoped thus to acquire with

Quebec by means of a series of posts. Empowered by his royal master

with letters warrant to embark upon this form of enterprise, he

crossed over Ontario, picked out a settlement point at, or near,

the present Lewiston, New York, and commenced the building of a

small vessel on Cayuga Creek above the falls, the supplies for this

vessel being carried from his little settlement near Lewiston,

below the falls, and in the direction of his main base at Fort

Frontenac. At the same time he commenced the construction of a

small fort at the mouth of the Niagara River, which would guard the

approaches to his work farther in the interior and would also

serve as one of the chain of posts by which he hoped to secure to

France the territory which he meant to acquire.

This little fort on Niagara Point at the mouth of the Niagara River

was kept up by La Salle during the remainder of his career in the

New World, and was continued by the Marquis de Nonville, Governor

of New France, who, in 1687, raised it to the dignity of a “fort

with four bastions.” At this time it was in the command of Troyes

with 100 men. Soon after this the little place was besieged by

Senecas, and while the four bastions and the other defences beat

off the savage foe, the garrison perished almost to a man from

the ravages of disease. Shortly after the point was abandoned

and allowed to fall into decay. During the succeeding years of

misfortune to the French the fort was filled only with weeds and

vines and savage visitors,--early prototypes of present-day tourist

throngs,--and it was not until 1725 that the place was reoccupied

and rehabilitated.

From this time for many years Fort Niagara was a little city in

itself and for a long time the greatest point south of Montreal or

west of Albany. The fort, proper, covered about eight acres and

had its ravines, ditches and pickets, curtains, counterscarps and

covered way; stone-towers, laboratory and magazine; mess-house,

barracks, bakery and blacksmith shop. For worship there was a

chapel with a large dial over the door to mark the course of the

sun. “The dungeon of the mess-house, called the black hole, was a

strong, dark, and dismal place; and in one corner of the room was

fixed the apparatus for strangling such unhappy wretches as fell

under the displeasure of the despotic rulers of those days. The

walls of this dungeon, from top to bottom, had engraved upon them

French names and mementos in that language. That the prisoners

were no common persons was clear, as the letters and emblems were

chiselled out in good style.”

The immense strategic importance of the post was not lost on the

English. It guarded approach to the treasured winter regions of the

great lakes with their store of furs, and it furnished a fine base

for negotiations with the Indians of New York State and the keeping

of them in a state of disaffection with the English.

In 1755, during that series of preliminary conflicts which marked

the beginning of the great battle royal between France and England

for the possession of the New World, an expedition against Niagara

was fitted out by Governor Shirley, of Massachusetts, and proceeded

under his command as far as Oswego. Thus far it went and no

farther, for sickness and desertion thinned the ranks of the men,

and unfavorable weather, as well as the presence of the French in

strength at Frontenac just across the lake, rendered unwise further

advance in the Governor of Massachusetts’ project. It was not for

four years, 1759, that the arm of the English was used in strength

against the busy, ancient fort.

In this year General Prideaux, a capable officer, with Sir William

Johnson, of New York, as his second in command, was despatched

with a force of English colonial troops and Indians against the

post. Fort Niagara was garrisoned by 600 French soldiers under

the command of Captain Pouchot, a chevalier of the order of St.

Louis. About a mile up the river was a little wooden stockade

commanded by the half-breed Joincaire-Chabert, who with his brother

Joincaire-Clauzonne and a clan of Indian relatives had long been

a thorn in the side of the English in influencing the powerful

Five Nations against them. But Sir William Johnson was beginning

to have that ascendency over this savage federation which was to

be so great an aid to the English from this time forward and had

with him now 900 warriors of this clan to lead against the French.

So Joincaire closed up his little stronghold and joined his forces

to those of Pouchot, the combined strength of the two by no means

being sufficient to beat off the English attack.

There was another resource upon which Pouchot confidently relied,

however, and this was prospect of help from the back countries

controlled by the French. By order of Vaudreuil, the Governor

of New France, the French population of the Illinois, Detroit

and other distant posts had come down the Lakes, a motley and

picturesque throng, to help maintain the ascendency of France in

the New World. They were now gathered at various posts of the

French back country, and no sooner did Pouchot learn that the

English were about to attack him than he sent messengers to summon

all of these forces to Niagara.

The siege began with the clumsy lack of forethought which seemed

to mark all military operations of those days, which depended

chiefly upon native courage and final enthusiasm of assault to

carry through than wise foreplanning. The English trenches were

so unskilfully laid out that they were raked by the fire of the

fort. However, the English at last got down to business and their

batteries commenced to play upon the French. A prematurely bursting

shell from one of the coehorns killed Prideaux at almost the first

discharges of the bombardment and the command fell upon Sir William

Johnson, who proceeded with an enheartening energy to carry on the

good work. At the end of three weeks the rampart of Fort Niagara

was breached, more than 100 of the soldiery therein had been killed

and the garrison was in extremity. Yet Pouchot fought on valiantly,

resting upon the arrival of reinforcements from the French and

savage forces which he had summoned. At length a distant firing

told him that these were near.

Pouchot went with an officer to the bastion next to the river

and listened anxiously to the firing which told him that his

reinforcements were in conflict with the English and trying to

cut a way through to the beleaguered stronghold. For a time he

heard the sound of battle and then all was still. At length a

friendly Indian who had passed unnoticed through the lines of the

English came to the French commander. “Your men are defeated,” he

said in substance. Pouchot would not believe him. Nevertheless it

was true and this fact was the death-blow to French hold of Fort

Niagara. In the articles of surrender shortly afterward drawn up,

it was specially stipulated that the French should be protected

from the Indians as they feared that the massacre of Fort William

Henry would be avenged upon them. Johnson was able to restrain his

lawless allies and, though the fort was given to pillage, no French

lives were taken after the surrender.

From this time until the close of the American War of Independence

the post remained in English hands. During the Pontiac War of 1763

the Indians made an unsuccessful attack upon it and its garrison

frequently took part in small skirmishes with lurking unfriendly

Senecas in the woods around the post. Heavily garrisoned by the

English during the Revolution, it served as a base for the war

parties which frequently devastated the State of New York. Both the

expedition led by Colonel Butler, which culminated in the massacre

at Wyoming, New York, in 1778, and that which laid waste Cherry

Valley in the same year, started from Fort Niagara.

That the American forces were not unaware of the evil dominance of

this post on the far western border of New York, we cannot doubt,

as one of the objects of the expedition led by General Sullivan

against the Indians in 1779 was the destruction, if possible, of

Niagara; but this campaign ended only with the destruction of

Indian villages. Subsequent to the declaration of peace between

England and America, the point was held by English troops until it

was taken over by an American garrison in 1796, probably having

the distinction of being the last post surrendered by the English

to the Americans in the United States. In 1799, in anticipation of

another Indian war, the post was heavily reinforced.

A description of Fort Niagara between 1805 and 1814 has been given

by a daughter of Dr. West, surgeon to the post during those years.

It was then surrounded on three sides with strong pickets of

plank, firmly planted in the ground and closely joined together;

a heavy gate in front of double plank, closely studded with

iron spikes. The fourth side was defended with embankments of

earth under which were formerly barracks, affording a safe

though somewhat gloomy retreat for the families of soldiers, but

which had been abandoned and the entrance closed long before my

remembrance, having been so infested with rattlesnakes that had

made their dens within that it was hardly safe to walk across the

parade.

The last chapter in the history of the fort was not a glorious

one, though thoroughly typical of the desultory character of the

conflict between Great Britain and the United States which is known

as the War of 1812. The official declaration of the imminence of

hostilities reached Fort Niagara, June 26, 1812, and preparations

were immediately undertaken to strengthen and defend the work.

The fort was then under the command of Captain Leonard, United

States Artillery, with 370 men. During the night of December 19,

1813, the English, 500 strong, under Colonel Murray, crossed the

river, captured the sentinels and took the work by surprise,

killing 65 of the American garrison and taking prisoner almost all

of the remainder, with a loss to themselves of five men killed

and wounded. A disgraceful side of the matter is that none of the

American officers were at their posts at this time, but were off

junketing somewhere in the country near by. Twenty-seven cannon

of large calibre, 3000 stand of small arms, and a large amount

of clothing, garrison equipage, and commissary stores fell into

the hands of the British, who, as well, destroyed the villages of

Lewiston and Buffalo, besides all of the dwellings on the lake as

far as Eighteen-Mile Creek.

The capture of Fort Niagara was shortly afterwards characterized

in the following terms by General Cass who was ordered to the

frontier: “The fall of Niagara was owing to the most criminal

negligence; the force in it was fully competent for its defence.”

The English held Niagara until the close of the war and surrendered

it to the United States in March, 1815. The career of the point

from that time to the present has been merely one of growing old

gracefully.

FORT ONTARIO

OSWEGO--NEW YORK

It was in 1722 that Oswego, New York, was made the site of an armed

camp and, at that, it was more through the stubborn determination

of Governor Burnet of the colony that the thing should be done than

through any willingness of the staid burghers of the State Assembly

to co-operate with their executive in schemes leading to future

good. As a matter of fact, Governor Burnet is said to have paid the

bill for establishing his little fort out of his own pocket, though

he may have made this sum up in some other direction--authorities

do not tell us this kind of thing! Yet this little post was to

become one of the most decisive factors in determining the result

of the conflict between France and England for the New World, the

flags of three Christian nations were to fly over it at different

periods, and warriors white, red, French, English and colonial were

to struggle for its possession. So much grows out of so little!

[Illustration: The SOUTH VIEW of OSWEGO on LAKE ONTARIO

General Shirley _in 1755 Strengthen’d & inlarged this_ Fort _and

erected two others; one Westward 170 Square with a Rampart of

Earth & Stone. Another on the Opposite side of the Bason, 470

Yards distant from the_ Old Fort. _This which is called the_ East

Fort, _is built of Logs and the Wall is surrounded by a Ditch. The

Projection of the Rocks, renders the Channel at the Entrance into

the_ Onondaga River _very Narrow, and our Vessels are generally

warp’d from the Lake into the Bason_.

Explanation.

1. _The River Onondaga_

2. _The Lake Ontario_

From William Smith’s view of the Province of New York, London

edition of 1757]

One of the earliest mentions of Oswego in the history of the

colonies is that in 1687 the Onondaga Indians presented a petition

to the mayor and common council of Albany, that busy little trading

post, requesting them to establish a trading post and fort at this

point. The mayor and common council evidently thought that this

was too wild an undertaking; for no defences existed there when, in

1696, the restless Frontenac landed at Oswego Point on a punitive

expedition against the Five Nations and built himself a little

stockade fort before pressing on to fruitless victory into the

interior of the country.

The strategic importance of the location to the English was not

lost on these astute empire builders, giving access as it does

with the Hudson Valley by way of the Oswego River, through Oneida

Lake, to the headwaters of the Mohawk River, or giving access to

the Susquehanna Valley by way of the Oswego River, Lake Onondaga

and the head of the Susquehanna. During the governorship of Lord

Bellemont, in the province of New York, the establishment of a post

at Oswego was contemplated, and material was even ordered from

England for the purpose, but it remained for Governor Bellemont’s

successor to carry out in effect what had been before done in

theory.

In 1727 Governor Burnet called the attention of the councillors of

the province to the fact that he had established a post at Oswego

(the name was borrowed from the Iroquois), and added that he had

sent a captain, two lieutenants and sixty soldiers to the point and

that he intended to keep a force there always.

This announcement came to the ear of the governor of New France and

so incensed him that he sent a letter to Governor Burnet asking

that official why, in opposition to the plain stipulations of the

Treaty of Ghent which forbade the erection of works of defence or

offence, he had constructed and manned this fort. Governor Burnet

replied by calling attention to the French building of “Oneagorah”

or Niagara, thus showing that the practice of justifying a soiled

pot by pointing to a black kettle is of ancient foundation. Anyhow,

Governor Burnet went cheerfully on with his fortifying of Oswego,

though Governor Beauharnais sent several expeditions to harass and

deter his workmen.

This first fortification at Oswego was of a very simple character.

Beauharnais complained that it was “a redoubt with galleries and

full of loop-holes and other works belonging to fortifications,”

but Burnet merely says that the “walls were four feet thick of

large good stone” and finds no other details to dilate upon.

In 1741 the colony authorized the expenditure of 600 pounds,

sterling, to “erect a sufficient stone wall at a proper distance

around the trading house at Oswego, either in a triangular or

quadrangular form, as the ground will best admit of, with a bastion

or block-house in each corner to flank the curtain.” Later on we

find that complaints were made to the General Assembly that the

contractors who had the job in hand were using clay instead of

stone and that they were skimping their work fearfully in order to

line their pockets generously. This is one of the very earliest

public scandals of New York State and one that seems to have eluded

the muck-raker so far.

The post was abandoned between the years 1744 and 1755 as, on the

outbreak of hostilities with Canada, its occupants feared that they

could not in their exposed and unsupported position withstand an

attack in force from Quebec.

As the years went on, however, the post of Oswego became

increasingly valuable to the English and they in turn became far

more able to hold their own. Situated as it was between Niagara

and the ocean,--between the back country of the French and their

metropolis of Quebec,--it fairly broke the back of the long

wriggling French line of settlements, which extended from the mouth

of the St. Lawrence to the mouth of the Mississippi.

In 1755 the English authorities agreed upon a plan of invasion

of Canada and resolved to make Oswego their base of operations.

Accordingly Colonel Shirley, of Massachusetts, with his own and Sir

William Pepperell’s regiments, with some New Jersey and New York

militia, in addition, made his way to Oswego, arriving there about

the end of June, 1755. They were prevented by sickness and ill luck

from proceeding against Niagara as had been their intention, and

the one great thing that they accomplished was the rehabilitation

of the old fort. They also commenced a fort on the west side of

the river, which they called Fort Ontario, and Fort Ontario has

survived to the present day. An extract from the “Gentleman’s

Magazine” of 1756, New York Colonial Documents, gives an idea of

this undertaking:

When it was determined that the army at Oswego should go into

winter quarters, they began a new fort upon the hill upon the

east side of the river, about 470 yards from the old one; it is

800 feet in circumference and will command the harbor; it is

built of logs from 20 to 30 inches thick; the wall is 14 feet

high and is encompassed by a ditch 14 feet broad and 10 feet

deep; it is to contain barracks for 300 men. On the other side of

the river west from the old fort another new fort is erecting;

this is 170 feet square. A hospital of frame-work, 150 feet by 30

feet, is already built and may serve as a barrack for 200 men,

and another barrack is preparing of 150 feet by 24.

The second new fort noted in this extract is Fort George, a rude

structure and one not fitted long to stand against the elements.

Another result of Shirley’s expedition was to cause the French,

who had been rather inactive, to bestir themselves. In the fall of

1755 they heavily reinforced their posts, sending to Fort Niagara

a lively young Captain named Pouchot. In 1756 this observant man

despatched a memorial to his superiors at Quebec, setting forth

that the English at Oswego were not on the alert, or in force, and

that the capture of the post was a feasibility. The authorities at

Quebec thought well of this idea, so well in fact that Montcalm,

himself, who was at Fort Frontenac,--newly arrived in New France to

take over the command of the military forces of the whole French

new world,--took charge of the expedition, which was organized on

Captain Pouchot’s suggestion.

Before proceeding in force against Oswego, Montcalm ordered De

Villiers to proceed with 700 men to the headwaters of the Oswego

River and to observe the enemy at Oswego. This force advanced

rapidly, surprised and took Fort Bull, on Wood Creek near the

head of Oneida Lake, and destroyed a large amount of provisions

destined for Oswego. On May 7, 1756, a party of Indians set out

from Fort Niagara, made a descent upon some ship carpenters near

Oswego, and returned to Niagara with twelve scalps. These repeated

successes, joined with Braddock’s defeat, produced a profound

effect upon the Indians and caused the Iroquois Federation to side

for the time with the French. Throughout the early summer of this

year Montcalm’s men continued to harass the garrison at Oswego,

capturing many stores of provisions designed for Fort Ontario.

Montcalm hurried his preparations, so that by August he was ready

to march against Oswego with 3000 men well equipped. He landed on

Four-inch Point, east of Oswego, on August 11, and marched to a

swamp a short distance in the rear of Fort Ontario, where he gave

charge of the engineering operations now developing upon his

expedition to Captain Pouchot.

Pouchot constructed a road through the swamp in one night and

opened up with a battery upon Fort Ontario at sixty paces distance.

The garrison fled in disorder across the river to the old fort.

Montcalm sent a strong force to cross the river above to cut off

retreat and opened fire the next morning with a battery on the

river bank. Colonel Mercer, the English commander, was killed and

his men soon surrendered. The spoils of the conqueror were 120

cannon, 9 vessels of war in process of construction, and a great

quantity of provisions and munitions of war.

There now occurred another one of those horrible massacres which

fouled the name of the French through their inability to control

their savage allies. The prisoners numbered 1700, many of them

civilian employees in the ship-yards, and Montcalm had pledged

their safety. Notwithstanding this, more than a hundred were killed

by the savages, either quickly or by the slow process of torture.

The French losses in the siege were 30 killed and wounded, and the

English killed in fighting numbered 150.

The artillery of the English forts at Oswego was removed to

Fort Niagara and the forts were dismantled. The forts remained

unoccupied until 1759, when the English advancing to the attack of

Fort Niagara left a force of 500 men here to protect their rear

and keep open their lines of communication. The French advanced

against this small command and would have taken it by surprise

had not a priest insisted upon speaking to the troops before they

went into battle. The English became apprised of the approach of

the French during this delay and sallied out to attack them, with

victory in the subsequent battle crowning their efforts.

In 1760 General Amherst strengthened the forts at Oswego and left a

large force here which became valuable in the war against Canada.

This was one of the few fortunate moves that this general made.

Fort Ontario was also an important base for the British during the

war of American Independence. In 1777 the English Colonel St. Leger

gathered 700 men here and was joined by Brant with 700 Indians. The

combined forces marched to besiege Fort Stanwix at the head of the

Mohawk River, but were defeated and pursued back to their base,

where they hurriedly embarked for Montreal.

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