[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable
in the leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only
to those who make them for the highest fashionables, but especially to
those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called
upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies who have
a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian
exercise, and it is quite necessary, not only for the tailor but the
dressmaker, to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made. At one
time it was thought impossible for anyone but a tailor to make a stylish
riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their dressmakers.
[Illustration]
The first thing necessary is a good measure of the form, by which a
correct pattern must be cut, as a well-setting, comfortable riding-habit
cannot be made without it.
The jacket has a few peculiarities:
There should be no seam down the middle of the back; the front, side-body
and back are cut one inch below the natural waist.
The skirt and back form a pleat like the skirt-pleat of a coat.
The buttons should be small and round. The sleeves are tightly buttoned
up at wrist.
The inside of jacket should be lined with silk, carefully wadded and
stitched in close rows. It should have a belt inside, stitched to each
seam at waist, which is to close it tight to the form.
The Figures we give show to advantage some of these peculiarities. The
draft is a good model of such a habit, and is universally adopted, being
both suitable and elegant. It “looks quite English” and very pretty.
A plain standing collar of white linen should be worn with it and a
gentleman’s cravat of black silk, or if the jacket is made with the
lapels turning down a flat scarf is more appropriate.
[Illustration]
We add to this an article published in “Munster’s Gazette of Fashion” on
riding-habits. This will enable our readers to be more fully posted, not
only on what is worn here but what is in keeping with London styles:
“We have devoted one of the plates issued with the current
number of our publication to the representation of the newest
and most fashionable style of a lady’s riding-habit in wear.
The lengthening of the waist, which we reported last year, has
been maintained, although it has not been increased; and the
jacket-skirt is about the same in length. It is fastened up to
the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar
rounded off at the front. The jacket-skirt is cut in one piece
instead of two, as heretofore, and at front runs off at an
angle from the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part,
and is lined with cloth, or interlined with some article of
substance, to give it a firmness. The edges of the back skirts
terminate in a point at the bottom. A small square tab, with
two holes in it, is sewn across under the bottom of the back,
and is fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top of the back
part of train. The edges are usually trimmed with a narrow
silk braid, sewn on flat, and the body and the sleeves lined
with light colored silk. Ball buttons and fancy silk buttons
are generally used. Five or six buttons are sewn on at the
hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open.
Some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their
riding-habits, and eschewing all fictitious aids by way of
adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain, with
the edges turned in and stitched, and smoked pearl or vegetable
ivory shank buttons.
Veils are no longer considered correct, no doubt because they
may be considered too effeminate in character and out of place
with the “billy-cock” hat.
The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than
the walking length. It is turned up at the bottom, with a
narrow hem only, and the V’s taken out at the seams are covered
with ribbon.
Colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown, olive
and green—not too light. Blue and black are also worn. The
small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred
on account of their making up so satisfactorily. Dress meltons
and tweeds are also worn, but the makes are not so appropriate.
One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the
necessity for every lady, taking equestrian exercise, to wear
riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as
the habit, with a fly-front open to leg-seam, or with a long
opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the
centre, and a narrow strap at bottom.”
In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft.
But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for
waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like
that on last Figure.