These drafts illustrate a new style of lady’s jacket, which will be
acceptable to many for street wear. The style and general effect at once
denote the character of the garment. The jacket is well adapted for
outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted
added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close
together, as the buttons now used are so very small; therefore, on this
jacket, they are placed only one inch apart.
The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height
of the lady. A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished
off with small buttons put close together.
The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap
put on, leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the
latter case it can be ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only
put in when it is cut longer than Figure.
The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be
regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as
ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.
The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running
them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the
bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless
carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be
borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam.
The sudden rise of a lady’s hip, and the marked difference between
the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below, make it
extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the
prominence of the figure at this part of the body.
The bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing
of silk, which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the
dress-skirt.
The collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short. A narrow
binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close
and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material, the stitching looks
more appropriate.
[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
The button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt. This form of jacket
makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet.
For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will make very stylish garments.
The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of
curving up over the hips as on the Figure, and then it is equally as well
adapted to be worn with any dress, as in the shape we illustrate.