Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body,
so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure
from I on centre of the back to the centre of the front D, half-breast,
or 18 inches; at this last point draw a line up and down for front line.
[Illustration]
Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as point 21 of the front;
draw down to 27 a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist; also
draw a straight line down from 27 to 35 at bottom.
From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the same to 23, now sweep the
neck from P.
From C, which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary
builds, on the line draw one to B on the back.
Now measure the length of shoulder on the back from 5 to 4, and place the
same from C to 22, and curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From
G on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 4½ inches, where
a line is drawn from H; then finish arm-hole from 22 to H and 21.
Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 33, and curve seam to
34; also locate the length by laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and
where 19 comes is 34.
From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the
centre.
At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half of breast, and curve
the front line from 23 to waist at S, where it comes back to the straight
line, and thence to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside
of it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2½ inches at breast, 2
at waist, and 2¼ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from
points S to 1½ on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in
darts.
In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J,
which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the
full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24,
two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.
In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in
previous Figures.