It will be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted
in the same manner as the principle employed in the construction of the
waist-body or basque.
We first commence to draw the back line B and O to F (Fig. 12).
[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
From O down, on the first line, place three-fourths of an inch, and from
O over to F, one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on
average size.
Starting at ¾, measure down to C, the length of natural waist, and to D,
the full parts of the hips; also to E the length wanted.
From C up to B place the height under the arm. Now at every one of these
points draw lines across, all at right angles with the first line.
Go in from C to N 1½ inch, and then draw a line from ¾, at top, to N, and
from the last point to E, and curve the back-line, as shown from ¾, past
R.
From N to M make the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as
desired.
Starting at R, place the width of back to G and draw a line up to S.
In the middle, between O and B, fix point A, and from there draw a line
over to J.
From the point where lines A-J and G-S cross draw a line to F.
Raise above J one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from F to S; then
from S go inside of line at J and curve the arm-hole of the back to I.
This last point is midway between J and G.
From I draw a line to N, then commence at I and draw line for the
side-seam to 8, going inside of straight line a trifle and thence with a
decided curve to M.
Draw a right-angle line with the waist-line F down to 3 from N, and to 4
from 2.
Now whatever the distance E is drawn from 3 must be placed from 4 to 5,
and the back may be finished by drawing the line from 2 to 5.
In case it is desired to make a narrow back, point E may be nearer to 3;
in such case point 5 would also be nearer to 4.
Cut the back out, and in order to draw the side-body lay it on the paper
in such a manner that there will be room enough to cut it out without
piecing.