Most Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the
breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions of
the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and
that its width, can never lead to the best results.
[Illustration]
When the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use. But
this is only the case on normal sizes, from 34 to 38 breast, as all
deviations from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights
to the widths.
The problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange
the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for
the heights.
In practice we find that the average forms, measuring from 34 to 38
breast, require and can be cut by the full breast-measure, as the lengths
agree, in the majority of cases, with this size; but in larger and
smaller sizes this breast-measure will either be too small or too large,
therefore, in drafting any other sizes than those indicated, we must use
the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite the full
breast-measure, in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct
size, and neither too small or too large.
Table of Sizes.
=======+===============+=======
| SIZE TO DRAFT |
BREAST.| ONE-HALF | WAIST.
|BREAST-MEASURE.|
-------+---------------+-------
30 | 15½ | 22
31 | 15⅞ | 22½
32 | 16¼ | 23
33 | 16¾ | 23½
34 | 17¼ | 24
35 | 17⅝ | 24½
36 | 18 | 25
37 | 18½ | 25½
38 | 19 | 26
39 | 19½ | 26½
40 | 20 | 27
41 | 20¼ | 28
42 | 20¾ | 29
43 | 21⅛ | 30
44 | 21⅝ | 31½
45 | 21 | 33
46 | 21⅞ | 34½
47 | 22¼ | 36
48 | 22¾ | 37½
49 | 23 | 38½
50 | 23¼ | 39
-------+---------------+-------
In considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and
marked characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown
woman—the slender, and the large, fleshy form. All these tend to
establish that the first elements of a good System for constructing
garments is a good proportionate standard.
[Illustration]
In strict accordance with this we have given diagrams, illustrating the
system by which the art of cutting is thoroughly attained; we also give
the system as it should be used in drafting by measure.
Table of Sizes for Children.
====+========+========+===========
AGE.| BREAST.| WAIST. | LENGTH OF
| | | BACK TO
| | | NATURAL
| | | WAIST.
----+--------+--------+-----------
2 | 22 | 22 | 9
3 | 22¾ | 22¼ | 9½
4 | 23½ | 22½ | 10
5 | 24¼ | 22¾ | 10½
6 | 25 | 23 | 11
7 | 25¾ | 23¼ | 11½
8 | 26½ | 23½ | 12
9 | 27¼ | 23¾ | 12½
10 | 28 | 24 | 13
11 | 28¾ | 24¼ | 13½
12 | 29½ | 24½ | 14
13 | 30¼ | 24¾ | 14½
14 | 31 | 25 | 15
15 | 32 | 25 | 15½
----+--------+--------+-----------
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]