_The Range from Botany Bay to Trinity Bay; with a farther Account of the
Country, its Inhabitants; and Productions_.
At day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May 1770, we set sail from Botany
Bay, with a light breeze at N.W. which soon after coming to the
southward, we steered along the shore N.N.E.; and at noon, our latitude,
by observation, was 33° 50' S. At this time we were between two and
three miles distant from the land, and a-breast of a bay, or harbour, in
which there appeared to be good anchorage, and which I called _Port
Jackson_. This harbour lies three leagues to the northward of Botany
Bay: The variation, by several azimuths, appeared to be 8° E. At
sun-set, the northermost land in sight bore N. 26 E. and some broken
land, that seemed to form a bay, bore N. 40 W. distant four leagues.
This bay, which lies in latitude 33° 42' I called _Broken Bay_. We
steered along the shore N.N.E. all night, at the distance of about three
leagues from the land, having from thirty-two to thirty-six fathom
water, with a hard sandy bottom.
Soon after sun-rise on the 7th, I took several azimuths, with four
needles belonging to the azimuth compass, the mean result of which gave
the variation 7° 56' E. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 33°
22' S.: We were about three leagues from the shore; the northermost land
in sight bore N. 19 E. and some lands which projected in three bluff
points, and which, for that reason; I called _Cape Three Points_, bore
S.W. distant five leagues. Our longitude from Botany Bay was 19' E. In
the afternoon, we saw smoke in several places upon the shore, and in the
evening, found the variation to be 8° 25' E. At this time we were
between two and three miles from the shore, in twenty-eight fathom; and
at noon the next day, we had not advanced one step to the northward. We
stood off shore, with the winds northerly, till twelve at night, and at
the distance of about five leagues, had seventy fathom; at the distance
of six leagues we had eighty fathom, which is the extent of the
soundings; for at the distance of ten leagues, we had no ground with 150
fathom.
The wind continuing northerly, till the morning of the 10th, we
continued to stand in and off the shore, with very little change of
situation in other respects; but a gale then springing up at S.W. we
made the best of our way along the shore to the northward. At sun-rise,
our latitude was 33° 2' S. and the variation 8° E. At nine in the
forenoon, we passed a remarkable hill, which stood a little way inland,
and somewhat resembled the crown of a hat: And at noon, our latitude, by
observation, was 32° 53' S., and our longitude 208° W. We were about two
leagues distant from the land, which extended from N. 41 E. to S. 41 W.,
and a small round rock, or island, which lay close under the land, bore
S. 82 W. distant between three and four leagues. At four in the
afternoon, we passed, at the distance of about a mile, a low rocky
point, which I called _Point Stephens_, on the north side of which is an
inlet, which I called _Port Stephens_: This inlet appeared to me, from
the mast-head, to be sheltered from all winds. It lies in latitude 32°
40', longitude 207° 51', and at the entrance are three small islands,
two of which are high; and on the main near the shore are some high
round hills, which at a distance appear like islands. In passing this
bay, at the distance of two or three miles from the shore, our soundings
were from thirty-three to twenty-seven fathom, from which I conjectured
that there must be a sufficient depth of water within it. At a little
distance within land, we saw smoke in several places; and at half an
hour past five, the northermost land in sight bore N. 36 E. and Point
Stephens S.W. distant four leagues. Our soundings in the night, were
from forty-eight to sixty-two fathom, at the distance of between three
and four leagues from the shore, which made in two hillocks. This Point
I called _Cape Hawke_: It lies in the latitude of 32° 14' S., longitude
207° 30' W.; and at four o'clock in the morning bore W. distant about
eight miles; at the same time the northermost land in sight bore N. 6 E.
and appeared like an island. At noon, this land bore N. 8 E. the
northermost land in sight N. 13 E. and Cape Hawke S. 37 W. Our latitude,
by observation, was 32° 2' S. which was twelve miles to the southward of
that given by the log; so that probably we had a current setting that
way: By the morning amplitude and azimuth, the variation was 9° 10' E.
During our run along the shore, in the afternoon, we saw smoke in
several places, at a little distance from the beach, and one upon the
top of a hill, which was the first we had seen upon elevated ground
since our arrival upon the coast. At sun-set, we had twenty-three
fathom, at the distance of a league and a half from the shore: The
northermost land then bore N. 13 E. and three hills, remarkably large
and high, lying contiguous to each other, and not far from the beach,
N.N.W. As these hills bore some resemblance to each other, we called
them _The Three Brothers_. They lie in latitude 31° 40' and maybe seen
fourteen or sixteen leagues. We steered N.E. by N. all night, having
from twenty-seven to sixty-seven fathom, at the distance of between two
and six leagues from the shore.
At day-break, we steered north, for the northermost land in sight. At
noon, we were four leagues from the shore, and by observation, in
latitude 31° 18' S., which was fifteen miles to the southward of that
given by the log; our longitude 206° 58' W. In the afternoon, we stood
in for the land, where we saw smoke in several places, till six in the
evening, when, being within three or four miles of it, and in
twenty-four fathom of water, we stood off with a fresh breeze at N. and
N.N.W. till midnight, when we had 118 fathom, at the distance of eight
leagues from the land, and then tacked. At three in the morning, the
wind veered to the westward, when we tacked and stood to the northward.
At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 30° 43' S., and our longitude
206° 45' W. At this time we were between three and four leagues from
the shore, the northermost part of which bore from us N. 13 W. and a
point, or head-land, on which we saw fires that produced a great
quantity of smoke, bore W. distant four leagues. To this Point I gave
the name of _Smokey Cape_: It is of a considerable height, and over the
pitch of the point is a round hillock; within it are two others, much
higher and larger, and within them the land is very low. Our latitude
was 30° 31' S., longitude 206° 54' W.: This day the observed latitude
was only five miles south of the log. We saw smoke in several parts
along the coast, besides that seen upon Smokey Cape.
In the afternoon, the wind being at N.E. we stood off and on, and at
three or four miles distance from the shore had thirty fathom water: The
wind afterwards coming cross of land, we stood to the northward, having
from thirty to twenty-one fathom, at the distance of four or five miles
from the shore.
At five in the morning, the wind veered to the north, and blew fresh,
attended with squalls: At eight, it began to thunder and rain, and in
about an hour it fell calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and
we had eighty-six fathom at between four and five leagues from the
shore: Soon after this we had a gale from the southward, with which we
steered N. by W. for the northermost land in sight. At noon, we were
about four leagues from the shore, and by observation, in latitude 30°
22', which was nine miles to the southward of our reckoning, longitude
206° 39' W. Some lands near the shore, of a considerable height, bore W.
As we advanced to the northward from Botany Bay, the land gradually
increased in height, so that in this latitude it may be called a hilly
country. Between this latitude and the Bay, it exhibits a pleasing
variety of ridges, hills, vallies, and plains, all clothed with wood, of
the same appearance with that which has been particularly described: The
land near the shore is in general low and sandy, except the points,
which are rocky, and over many of them are high bills, which, at their
first rising out of the water, have the appearance of islands.[73] In
the afternoon, we had some small rocky islands between us and the land,
the southermost of which lies in latitude 30° 10', and the northermost
in 29° 58', and somewhat more than two leagues from the land: About two
miles without the northermost island we had thirty-three fathom water.
Having the advantage of a moon, we steered along the shore all night, in
the direction of N. and N. by E. keeping at the distance of about three
leagues from the land, and having from twenty to twenty-five fathom
water. As soon as it was light, having a fresh gale, we made all the
sail we could, and at nine o'clock in the morning, being about a league
from the shore, we discovered smoke in many places, and having recourse
to our glasses, we saw about twenty of the natives, who had each a large
bundle upon his back, which we conjectured to be palm-leaves for
covering their houses: We continued to observe them above an hour,
during which they walked upon the beach, and up a path that led over a
hill of a gentle ascent, behind which we lost sight of them: Not one of
them was observed to stop and look towards us, but they trudged along,
to all appearance, without the least emotion either of curiosity or
surprise, though it is impossible they should not have seen the ship by
a casual glance as they walked along the shore; and though she must,
with respect to every other object they had yet seen, have been little
less stupendous and unaccountable than a floating mountain with all its
woods would have been to us. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was
28° 39' S., and longitude 206° 27' W. A high point of land, which I
named _Cape Byron_, bore N.W. by W. at the distance of three miles. It
lies in latitude 28° 37' 30" S., longitude 206° 30' W., and may be known
by a remarkable sharp peaked mountain, which lies inland, and bears from
it N.W. by W. From this point, the land trends N. 13 W.: Inland it is
high and hilly, but low near the shore; to the southward of the point it
is also low and level. We continued to steer along the shore with a
fresh gale, till sun-set, when we suddenly discovered breakers a-head,
directly in the ship's course and also on our larboard bow. At this time
we were about five miles from the land, and had twenty fathom water: We
hauled up east till eight, when we had run eight miles, and increased
our depth of water to forty-four fathom: We then brought-to, with the
ship's head to the eastward, and lay upon this tack till ten, when,
having increased our sounding to seventy-eight fathom, we wore, and lay
with the ship's head to the land till five in the morning, when we made
sail, and at day-light, were greatly surprised to find ourselves farther
to the southward, than we had been the evening before, though the wind
had been southerly, and blown fresh all night: We now saw the breakers
again within us, and passed them at the distance of one league. They
lie in latitude 28° 8' S. stretching off east two leagues from a point
of land, under which is a small island. Their situation may always be
known by the peaked mountain which has been just mentioned, and which
bears from them S.W. by W. for this reason I have named it _Mount
Warning_. It lies seven or eight leagues inland, in latitude 28° 22' S.
The land about it is high and hilly, but it is of itself sufficiently
conspicuous to be at once distinguished from every other object. The
Point off which these shoals lie, I have named _Point Danger_. To the
northward of this Point the land is low, and trends N.W. by N.; but it
soon turns again more to the northward.
[Footnote 73: The appearance and adjustment of the hills in New Holland
have attracted very considerable regard. They are thought to bear a
strong resemblance in disposition to the Andes in South America. Some
interesting information on this topic will be given when we treat of
another voyage. This hint may suffice for the present.--E.]
At noon, we were about two leagues from the land, and by observation, in
latitude 27° 46' S., which was seventeen miles to the southward of the
log; our longitude was 206° 26' W. Mount Warning bore S. 26 W. distant
fourteen leagues, and the northermost land in sight bore N. We pursued
our course along the shore, at the distance of about two leagues, in the
direction of N. 1/4 E. till between four and five in the afternoon, when
we discovered breakers in our larboard bow. Our depth of water was
thirty-seven fathom, and at sun-set, the northermost land bore N. by W.
the breakers N.W. by W. distant four miles, and the northermost land set
at noon, which formed a point, and to which I gave the name of _Point
Look-out_, W. distant five or six miles, in the latitude of 27° 6'. On
the north side of this Point, the shore forms a wide open bay, which I
called _Moreton's Bay_, in the bottom of which the land is so low that I
could but just see it from the top-mast head. The breakers lie between
three or four miles from Point Look-out; and at this time we had a great
sea from the southward, which broke upon them very high. We stood on
N.N.E. till eight o'clock, when having passed the breakers, and deepened
our water to fifty-two fathom, we brought-to till midnight, when we made
sail again to the N.N.E. At four in the morning, we had 135 fathom, and
when the day broke, I perceived that during the night I had got much
farther northward, and from the shore, than I expected from the course
we steered, for we were distant at least seven leagues; I therefore
hauled in N.W. by W. with a fresh gale at S.S.W. The land that was
farthest to the north the night before, now bore S.S.W. distant six
leagues, and I gave it the name of _Cape Moreton_, it being the north
point of Moreton's Bay: Its latitude is 26° 56', and its longitude is
206° 28'. From Cape Moreton the land trends away west, farther than can
be seen, for there is a small space, where at this time no land is
visible, and some on board having also observed that the sea looked
paler than usual, were of opinion that the bottom of Moreton's Bay
opened into a river. We had here thirty-four fathom water, and a fine
sandy bottom: This alone would have produced the change that had been
observed in the colour of the water; and it was by no means necessary to
suppose a river to account for the land at the bottom of the Bay not
being visible, for supposing the land there to be as low as we knew it
to be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would have been
impossible to see it from the station of the ship; however, if any
future navigator should be disposed to determine the question, whether
there is or is not a river in this place, which the wind would not
permit us to do, the situation may always be found by three hills which
lie to the northward of it, in the latitude of 26° 53'. These hills lie
but a very little way inland, and not far from each other: They are
remarkable for the singular form of their elevation, which very much
resembles a glasshouse, and for which reason I called them the _Glass
Houses_: The northermost of the three is the highest and largest: There
are also several other peaked hills inland to the northward of these,
but they are not nearly so remarkable.[74] At noon, our latitude was, by
observation, 26° 28' S. which was ten miles to the northward of the log,
a circumstance which had never before happened upon this coast; our
longitude was 206° 46'. At this time we were between two and three
leagues from the land, and had twenty-four fathom water. A low bluff
point, which was the south head of a sandy bay, bore N. 62 W., distant
three leagues, and the northermost point of land in sight bore N. 1/4 E.
This day we saw smoke in several places, and some at a considerable
distance inland.
[Footnote 74: The depth of the Bay from Cape Moreton is said to be 34
miles--it then contracts into a small stream; and there is a
considerable river near Glass-House Peaks, as they have been
called.--E.]
In steering along the shore at the distance of two leagues, our
soundings were from twenty-four to thirty-two fathom, with a sandy
bottom. At six in the evening, the northermost point of land bore N. 1/4
W., distant four leagues; at ten it bore N.W. by W. 1/2 W. and as we had
seen no land to the northward of it, we brought-to, not well knowing
which way to steer.
At two in the morning, however, we made sail with the wind at S.W., and
at day-light, we saw the land extending as far as N. 1/4 E. the point we
had set the night before bore S.W. by W., distant between three and four
leagues. It lies in latitude 25° 58', longitude 206° 48' W.: The land
within it is of a moderate and equal height, but the point itself is so
unequal, that it looks like two small islands lying under the land, for
which reason I gave it the name of _Double Island Point_; it may also be
known by the white cliffs on the north side of it. Here the land trends
to the N.W. and forms a large open bay, the bottom of which is so low a
flat that from the deck it could scarcely be seen. In crossing this bay,
our depth of water was from thirty to twenty-two fathom, with a white
sandy bottom. At noon, we were about three leagues from the shore, in
latitude 25° 84' S., longitude 206° 45' W.: Double Island Point bore S.
1/4 W. and the northermost land in sight N. 1/4 E. This part of the
coast, which is of a moderate height, is more barren than any we had
seen, and the soil more sandy. With our glasses we could discover that
the sands, which lay in great patches of many acres, were moveable, and
that some of them had not been long in the place they possessed; for we
saw in several parts, trees half buried, the tops of which were still
green; and in others, the naked trunks of such as the sand had
surrounded long enough to destroy. In other places the woods appeared to
be low and shrubby, and we saw no signs of inhabitants. Two water-snakes
swam by the ship: They were beautifully spotted, and in every respect
like land-snakes, except that their tails were broad and flat, probably
to serve them instead of fins in swimming. In the morning of this day,
the variation was 8° 20' E., and in the evening, 8° 36. During the
night, we continued our course to the northward, with a light breeze
from the land, being distant from it between two and three leagues, and
having from twenty-three to twenty-seven fathom, with a fine sandy
bottom.
At noon on the 19th, we were about four miles from the land, with only
thirteen fathom. Our latitude was 26° 4', and the northermost land in
sight bore N. 21 W., distant eight miles. At one o'clock, being still
four miles distant from the shore, but having seventeen fathom water, we
passed a black bluff head, or point of land, upon which a great number
of the natives were assembled, and which therefore I called _Indian
Head_: it lies in latitude 25° 3'. About four miles N. by W. of this
head, is another very like it, from whence the land trends away somewhat
more to the westward: Next to the sea it is low and sandy, and behind it
nothing was to be seen, even from the mast-head. Near Indian Head we saw
more of the natives, and upon the neighbouring shore fires by night, and
smoke by day. We kept to the northward all night, at the distance of
from four miles to four leagues from the shore, and with a depth of
water from seventeen to thirty-four fathom. At daybreak, the northermost
land bore from us W.S.W. and seemed to end in a point, from which we
discovered a reef running out to the northward as far as we could see.
We had hauled our wind to the westward before it was light, and
continued the course till we saw the breakers upon our lee-bow. We now
edged away N.W. and N.N.W. along the east side of the shoal, from two to
one mile distant, having regular soundings from thirteen to seven
fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. At noon, our latitude, by observation,
was 20°26', which was thirteen miles to the northward of the log: We
judged the extreme point of the shoal to bear from us about N.W. and the
point from which it seemed to run out bore S. 3/4 W., distant twenty
miles. This point I named _Sandy Cape_, from two very large patches of
white sand which lay upon it. It is sufficiently high to be seen at the
distance of twelve leagues, in clear weather, and lies in latitude
24°45', longitude 206° 51': The land trends from it S.W. as far as can
be seen. We kept along the east side of the shoal till two in the
afternoon, when, judging that there was a sufficient depth of water upon
it to allow passage for the ship, I sent the boat a-head to sound, and
upon her making the signal for more than five fathom, we hauled our
wind, and stood over the tail of it in six fathom. At this time we were
in latitude 24°22', and Sandy Cape bore S. 1/2 E., distant eight
leagues; but the direction of the shoal is nearest N.N.W. and S.S.E. It
is remarkable that when on board the ship we had six fathom, the boat,
which was scarcely a quarter of a mile to the southward, had little more
than five, and that immediately after six fathom we had thirteen, and
then twenty, as fast as the man could cast the lead: From these
circumstances, I conjectured that the west side of the shoal was steep.
This shoal I called the _Break Sea Spit_, because we had now smooth
water, and to the southward of it we had always a high sea from the S.E.
At six in the evening, the land of Sandy Cape extended from S. 17 E. to
S. 27 E., at the distance of eight leagues; our depth of water was
twenty-three fathom: With the same soundings we stood to the westward
all night. At seven in the morning, we saw, from the mast-head, the land
of Sandy Cape bearing S.E. 1/2 E., distant about thirteen leagues: At
nine, we discovered land to the westward, and soon after saw smoke in
several places. Our depth of water was now decreased to seventeen
fathom, and by noon we had no more than thirteen, though we were seven
leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to W.N.W. Our
latitude at this time was 24° 28' S. For a few days past we had seen
several of the sea-birds called boobies, not having met with any of them
before; last night a small flock of them passed the ship, and went away
to the N.W.; and in the morning, from about half an hour before
sun-rise, to half an hour after, flights of them were continually coming
from the N.N.W. and flying to the S.S.E. nor was one of them seen to fly
in any other direction; we therefore conjectured that there was a
lagoon, river, or inlet of shallow water, in the bottom of the deep bay,
to the southward of us, whither these birds resorted to feed in the day,
and that not far to the northward there were some islands to which they
repaired in the night. To this bay I gave the name of _Hervey's Bay_, in
honour of Captain Hervey. In the afternoon we stood in for the land,
steering S.W. with a gentle breeze at S.E. till four o'clock, when,
being in latitude 24° 36', about two leagues from the shore, and having
nine fathom water, we bore away along the coast N.W. by W. and at the
same time could see land extending to the S.S.E. about eight leagues.
Near the sea the land is very low, but within there are some lofty
hills, all thickly clothed with, wood. While we were running along the
shore, we shallowed our water from nine to seven fathom, and at one time
we had but six, which determined us to anchor for the night.
At six in the morning we weighed, with a gentle breeze from the
southward, and steered N.W. 1/4 W. edging in for the land till we got
within two miles of it, with water from seven to eleven fathom; we then
steered N.N.W. as the land lay, and at noon, our latitude was 24° 19'.
We continued in the same course, at the same distance, with from twelve
fathom to seven, till five in the evening, when we were abreast of the
south point of a large open bay, in which I intended to anchor. During
this course, we discovered with our glasses that the land was covered
with palm-nut trees, which we had not seen from the time of our leaving
the islands within the tropic; we also saw two men walking along the
shore, who did not condescend to take the least notice of us. In the
evening, having hauled close upon a wind, and made two or three trips,
we anchored about eight o'clock in five fathom, with a fine sandy
bottom. The south point of the bay bore E. 3/4 S. distant two miles, the
north point N.W. 1/4 N. and about the same distance from the shore.
Early the next morning I went ashore, with a party of men, in order to
examine the country, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, the other
gentlemen, and Tupia: The wind blew fresh, and we found it so cold, that
being at some distance from the shore, we took our cloaks as a necessary
equipment for the voyage. We landed a little within the south point of
the bay, where we found a channel leading into a large lagoon: This
channel I proceeded to examine, and found three fathom water till I got
about a mile up it, where I met with a shoal, upon which there was
little more than one fathom; but having passed over it, I had three
fathom again. The entrance of this channel lies close to the south point
of the bay, being formed by the shore on the east, and on the west by a
large spit of sand: It is about a quarter of a mile broad, and lies in
S. by W. In this place there is room for a few ships to lie in great
security, and a small stream of fresh water; I would have rowed into the
lagoon, but was prevented by shallows. We found several bogs, and swamps
of salt water, upon which, and by the sides of the lagoon, grows the
true mangrove, such as is found in the West Indies, and the first of the
kind that we had met with. In the branches of these mangroves there were
many nests of a remarkable kind of ant, that was as green as grass: When
the branches were disturbed they came out in great numbers, and punished
the offender by a much sharper bite than ever we had felt from the same
kind of animal before.[75] Upon these mangroves also we saw small green
caterpillars in great numbers: Their bodies were thick set with hairs,
and they were ranged upon the leaves side by side like a file of
soldiers, to the number of twenty or thirty together: When we touched
them, we found that the hair of their bodies had the quality of a
nettle, and gave us a much more acute, though less durable pain. The
country here is manifestly worse than about Botany Bay: The soil is dry
and sandy, but the sides of the hills are covered with trees, which grow
separately, without underwood. We found here the tree that yields a gum
like the _sanguis draconis_; but it is somewhat different from the trees
of the same kind which we had seen before, for the leaves are longer,
and hang down like those of the weeping willow.[76] We found also much
less gum upon them, which is contrary to the established opinion, that
the hotter the climate, the more gums exude. Upon a plant also which
yielded a yellow gum, there was less than upon the same kind of plant in
Botany Bay. Among the shoals and sandbanks we saw many large birds, some
in particular of the same kind that we had seen in Botany Bay, much
bigger than swans, which we judged to be pelicans; but they were so shy
that we could not get within gun-shot of them. Upon the shore we saw a
species of the bustard, one of which we shot; it was as large as a
turkey, and weighed seventeen pounds and a half. We all agreed that this
was the best bird we had eaten since we left England; and in honour of
it we called this inlet _Bustard Bay_. It lies in latitude 24° 4',
longitude 208° 18'. The sea seemed to abound with fish; but unhappily,
we tore our seine all to pieces at the first haul: Upon the mud banks,
under the mangroves, we found innumerable oysters of various kinds;
among others the hammer-oyster, and a large proportion of small
pearl-oysters: If in deeper water there is equal plenty of such oysters
at their full growth, a pearl fishery might certainly be established
here to very great advantage.
[Footnote 75: For some remarks on these creatures, see the Section which
treats of this country in general,--E.]
[Footnote 76: There are several trees which yield a resinous substance,
resembling what is called dragon's blood, as the Pterocarpus draco, the
Dracaena draco, the Calamus draco, the Dalbergia monetaria, &c. Some
observations on the botany of New Holland are reserved for a future
page.--E.]
The people who were left on board the ship said, that while we were in
the woods about twenty of the natives came down to the beach, abreast of
her, and having looked at her some time, went away; but we that were
ashore, though we saw smoke in many places, saw no people: The smoke was
at places too distant for us to get to them by land, except one, to
which we repaired. We found ten small fires still burning within a few
paces of each other; but the people were gone: We saw near them several
vessels of bark, which we supposed to have contained water, and some
shells and fish-bones, the remains of a recent meal. We saw also, lying
upon the ground, several pieces of soft bark, about the length and
breadth of a man, which we imagined might be their beds; and, on the
windward side of the fires, a small shade, about a foot and a half high,
of the same substance. The whole was in a thicket of close trees, which
afforded good shelter from the wind. The place seemed to be much
trodden, and as we saw no house, nor any remains of a house, we were
inclined to believe that, as these people had no clothes, they had no
dwelling; but spent their nights, among the other commoners of Nature,
in the open air; and Tupia himself, with an air of superiority and
compassion, shook his head, and said, that they were _Taata Enos_, "poor
wretches,".[77] I measured the perpendicular height of the last tide,
and found it to be eight feet above low-water mark, and from the time of
low-water this day, I found that it must be high-water at the full and
change of the moon at eight o'clock.
[Footnote 77: The natives of New Holland are indeed "poor wretches;" but
let it be remembered that the term poor is relative. The reader must
make allowance for prejudice, in judging of their state from the
testimony of one who had lived in Otaheitan luxury. A Sicilian, it is
probable, would give a very sorry account of the Highlands and
Highlanders of Scotland--
Yet still e'en here Content can spread a charm,
Redress the clime, and all its rage disarm.
We never more erroneously estimate the happiness of a people, than when
we set up our own habits as the criterion of perfection. The error of
Tupia is the error of thousands.--E.]
At four o'clock in the morning we weighed, and with a gentle breeze at
south made sail out of the bay. In standing out, our soundings were from
five to fifteen fathom; and at day-light, when we were in the greatest
depth, and abreast of the north head of the bay, we discovered breakers
stretching out from it N.N.E. between two and three miles, with a rock
at the outermost point of them just above water. While we were passing
these rocks, at the distance of about half a mile, we had from fifteen
to twenty fathom; and as soon as we had passed them, we hauled along
shore W.N.W. for the farthest land we had in sight. At noon, our
latitude, by observation, was 23° 52' S.; the north part of Bustard Bay
bore S. 62 E. distant ten miles; and the northermost land in sight N. 60
W.; the longitude was 208° 37', and our distance from the nearest shore
six miles, with fourteen fathom water.
Till five in the afternoon it was calm, but afterwards we steered before
the wind N.W. as the land lay till ten at night, and then brought-to,
having had all along fourteen and fifteen fathom. At five in the morning
we made sail; and at day-light the northermost point of the main bore N.
70 W. Soon after we saw more land, making like islands, and bearing N.W.
by N. At nine, we were abreast of the point, at the distance of one
mile, with fourteen fathom water. This point I found to lie directly
under the tropic of Capricorn; and for that reason I called it _Cape
Capricorn_: Its longitude is 208° 58' W. It is of a considerable height,
looks white and barren, and may be known by some islands which lie to
the N.W. of it, and some small rocks at the distance of about a league
S.E. On the west side of the cape there appeared to be a lagoon, and on
the two spits which formed the entrance we saw an incredible number of
the large birds that resemble a pelican. The northermost land now in
sight bore from Cape Capricorn N. 24 W. and appeared to be an island;
but the main land trended W. by N. 1/2 N. which course we steered,
having from fifteen to six fathom, and from six to nine, with a hard
sandy bottom. At noon, on latitude, by observation, was 23° 24' S.; Cape
Capricorn bore S. 60 E. distant two leagues; and a small island N. by E.
two miles: In this situation we had nine fathom, being about four miles
from the main, which, next the sea, is low and sandy, except the points
which are high and rocky. The country inland is hilly, but by no means
of a pleasing aspect. We continued to stand to the N.W., till four
o'clock in the afternoon, when it fell calm; and we soon after anchored
in twelve fathom, having the main land and islands in a manner all round
us, and Cape Capricorn bearing S. 54 E. distant four leagues. In the
night, we found the tide rise and fall near seven feet; and the flood to
set to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward, which is just contrary
to what we found when we were at anchor to the eastward of Bustard Bay.
At six in the morning we weighed, with a gentle breeze at south, and
stood away to the N.W. between the outermost range of islands and the
main, leaving several small islands between the main and the ship, which
we passed at a very little distance; our soundings being irregular, from
twelve to four fathom, I sent a boat a-head to sound. At noon, we were
about three miles from the main, and about the same distance from the
islands without us: Our latitude, by observation, was 23° 7' S. The main
land here is high and mountainous; the islands which lie off it are also
most of them high, and of a small circuit, having an appearance rather
of barrenness than fertility. At this time we saw smoke in many places
at a considerable distance inland, and therefore conjectured that there
might be a lagoon, river, or inlet, running up the country, the rather
as we had passed two places which had the appearance of being such; but
our depth of water was too little to encourage me to venture where I
should probably have less. We had not stood to the northward above an
hour, before we suddenly fell into three fathom; upon which I anchored,
and sent away the master to sound the channel which lay to the leeward
of us, between the northermost island and the main: It appeared to be
pretty broad, but I suspected that it was shallow, and so indeed it was
found; for the master reported at his return that in many places he had
only two fathom and a half, and where we lay at anchor we had only
sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than the ship drew. While the
master was sounding the channel, Mr Banks tried to fish from the cabin
windows with hook and line: The water was too shallow for fish; but the
ground was almost covered with crabs, which readily took the bait, and
sometimes held it so fast in their claws, that they did not quit their
hold till they were considerably above water. These crabs were of two
sorts, and both of them such as we had not seen before: One of them was
adorned with the finest blue that can be imagined, in every respect
equal to the ultra-marine, with which all his claws and every joint was
deeply tinged; the under part of him was white, and so exquisitely
polished, that in colour and brightness it exactly resembled the white
of old china: The other was also marked with the ultra-marine upon his
joints and his toes, but somewhat more sparingly; and his back was
marked with three brown spots, which had a singular appearance. The
people who had been out with the boat to sound reported, that upon an
island where we had observed two fires, they had seen several of the
inhabitants, who called to them, and seemed very desirous that they
should land. In the evening, the wind veered to E.N.E. which gave us an
opportunity to stretch three or four miles back by the way we came;
after which the wind shifted to the south, and obliged us again to
anchor in six fathom.
At five in the morning, I sent away the master to search for a passage
between the islands, while we got the ship under sail; and as soon as it
was light, we followed the boat, which made a signal that a passage had
been found. As soon as we had got again into deep water, we made sail to
the northward, as the land lay, with soundings from nine fathom to
fifteen, and some small islands still without us. At noon we were about
two leagues distant from the main, and by observation, in latitude 22°
53' S. The northermost point of land in sight now bore N.N.W. distant
ten miles. To this point I gave the name of Cape Manifold, from the
number of high hills which appeared over it. It lies in latitude 22° 43'
S. and distant about seventeen leagues from Cape Capricorn, in the
direction of N. 26 W. Between these capes the shore forms a large bay,
which I called Keppel Bay; and I also distinguished the islands by the
name of Keppel's Islands. In this bay there is good anchorage; but what
refreshments it may afford I know not; we caught no fish, though we were
at anchor, but probably there is fresh water in several places, as both
the islands and the main are inhabited. We saw smoke and fires upon the
main, and upon the islands we saw people. At three in the afternoon we
passed Cape Manifold, from which the land trends N.N.W. The land of the
Cape is high, rising in hills directly from the sea, and may be known
by three islands which lie off it, one of them near the shore, and the
other two eight miles out at sea. One of these islands is low and flat,
and the other high and round. At six o'clock in the evening we
brought-to, when the northermost part of the main in sight bore N.W. and
some islands which lie off it N. 31 W. Our soundings after twelve
o'clock were from twenty to twenty-five fathom, and in the night from
thirty to thirty-four.
At day-break we made sail, Cape Manifold bearing S. by E. distant eight
leagues, and the islands which I had set the night before were distant
four miles in the same direction. The farthest visible point of the main
bore N. 67 W. at the distance of twenty-two miles; but we could see
several islands to the northward of this direction. At nine o'clock in
the forenoon we were abreast of the point which I called Cape Townshend.
It lies in latitude 22° 15', longitude 209° 43'. The land is high and
level, and rather naked than woody. Several islands lie to the northward
of it, at the distance of four or five miles out at sea; three or four
leagues to the S.E. the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which there
appeared to be an inlet or harbour. To the westward of the Cape the land
trends S.W. 1/2 S. and there forms a very large bay which turns to the
eastward, and probably communicates with the inlet, and makes the land
of the Cape an island. As soon as we got round this cape, we hauled our
wind to the westward, in order to get within the islands, which lie
scattered in the bay in great numbers, and extend out to sea as far as
the eye could reach, even from the mast-head: These islands vary both in
height and circuit from each other, so that although they are very
numerous, no two of them are alike. We had not stood long upon a wind
before we came into shoal water, and were obliged to tack at once to
avoid it. Having sent a boat a-head, I bore away W. by N. many small
islands, rocks, and shoals lying between us and the main, and many of a
larger extent without us; our soundings till near noon were from
fourteen to seventeen fathom, when the boat made the signal for meeting
with shoal water; upon this we hauled close upon a wind to the eastward,
but suddenly fell into three-fathom and a quarter; we immediately
dropped an anchor, which brought the ship up with all her sails
standing. When the ship was brought up we had four fathom, with a
coarse sandy bottom, and found a strong tide setting to the N.W. by W.
1/2 W. at the rate of near three miles an hour, by which we were so
suddenly carried upon the shoal. Our latitude, by observation, was 22°
8' S. Cape Townshend bore E. 16 S. distant thirteen miles; and the
westermost part of the main in sight W. 3/4 N. At this time a great
number of islands lay all round us.
In the afternoon, having sounded round the ship, and found that there
was water sufficient to carry her over the shoal, we weighed, and about
three o'clock made sail and stood to the westward, as the land lay,
having sent a boat a-head to sound. At six in the evening we anchored in
ten fathom, with a sandy bottom, at about two miles distance from the
main; the westermost part of which bore W.N.W. and a great number of
islands, lying along way without us, were still in sight.
At five o'clock the next morning, I sent away the master with two boats
to sound the entrance of an inlet which bore from us west, at about the
distance of a league, into which I intended to go with the ship, that I
might wait a few days till the moon should increase, and in the mean
time examine the country. As soon as the ship could be got under sail,
the boats made the signal for anchorage, upon which we stood in, and
anchored in five fathoms water, about a league within the entrance of
the inlet; which, as I observed a tide to flow and ebb considerably, I
judged to be a river that ran up the country to a considerable distance.
In this place I had thoughts of laying the ship ashore, and cleaning her
bottom; I therefore landed with the master in search of a convenient
place for that purpose, and was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander.
We found walking here exceedingly troublesome, for the ground was
covered with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharp and
bearded backwards, so that whenever they stuck into our clothes, which
indeed was at every step, they worked forwards by means of the beard,
till they got at the flesh, and at the same time we were surrounded by a
cloud of musquitos, which incessantly tormented us with their stings. We
soon met with several places where the ship might conveniently be laid
ashore, but to our great disappointment we could find no fresh water. We
proceeded however up the country, where we found gum trees like those
that we had seen before, and observed that here also the gum was in very
small quantities. Upon the branches of these trees, and some others, we
found ants nests made of clay, as big as a bushel, something like those
described in Sir Hans Sloan's Natural History of Jamaica, vol. ii. p.
221, tab. 258, but not so smooth; the ants which inhabited these nests
were small and their bodies white. But upon another species of the tree
we found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and having
worked out the pith, occupied the pipe which had contained it, yet the
parts in which these insects had thus formed a lodgment, and in which
they swarmed in amazing numbers, bore leaves and flowers, and appeared
to be in as flourishing a state as those that were sound. We found also
an incredible number of butterflies, so that for the space of three or
four acres the air was so crowded with them, that millions were to be
seen in every direction, at the same time that every branch and twig was
covered with others that were not upon the wing. We found here also a
small fish of a singular kind; it was about the size of a minnow, and
had two very strong breast fins; we found it in places that were quite
dry, where we supposed it might have been left by the tide; but it did
not seem to have become languid by the want of water, for upon our
approach it leaped away, by the help of the breast fins, as nimbly as a
frog; neither indeed did it seem to prefer water to land; for when we
found it in the water, it frequently leaped out, and pursued its way
upon dry ground; we also observed that when it was in places where small
stones were standing above the surface of the water at a little distance
from each other, it chose rather to leap from stone to stone, than to
pass through the water; and we saw several of them pass entirely over
puddles in this manner, till they came to dry ground, and then leap
away.[78]
[Footnote 78: As the natural history department of the account of this
country will be filled up when we come to another voyage, little or no
attention is paid to it at present. Dr Hawkesworth's labours, it may
have been already observed by the intelligent reader, are satisfactory
to any one more than to a student of that science.--E.]
In the afternoon we renewed our search after fresh water, but without
success, and therefore I determined to make my stay here but short;
however, having observed from an eminence that the inlet penetrated a
considerable way into the country, I determined to trace it in the
morning.
At sun-rise I went ashore, and climbing a considerable hill, I took a
view of the coast and the islands that lie off it, with their bearings,
having an azimuth compass with me for that purpose, but I observed that
the needle differed very considerably in its position, even to thirty
degrees, in some places more, in others less; and once I found it differ
from itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. I
took up some of the loose stones that lay upon the ground, and applied
them to the needle, but they produced no effect, and I therefore
concluded that there was iron ore in the hills, of which I had remarked
other indications both here and in the neighbouring parts. After I had
made my observations upon the hill, I proceeded with Dr Solander up the
inlet; I set out with the first of the flood, and long before high water
I had advanced above eight leagues. Its breadth thus far was from two to
five miles, upon a S.W. by S. direction; but here it opened every way,
and formed a large lake, which to the N.W. communicated with the sea;
and I not only saw the sea in this direction, but found the tide of
flood coming strongly in from that point: I also observed an arm of this
lake extending to the eastward, and it is not improbable that it may
communicate with the sea in the bottom of the bay, which lies to the
westward of Cape Townshend. On the south side of the lake is a ridge of
high hills which I was very desirous to climb; but it being high-water,
and the day far spent, I was afraid of being bewildered among the shoals
in the night, especially as the weather was dark and rainy; and
therefore I made the best of my way to the ship. In this excursion I saw
only two people, and they were at a distance; they followed the boat
along the shore a good way, but the tide running strongly in my favour,
I could not prudently wait for them: I saw however several fires in one
direction, and smoke in another, but they also were at a distance. While
I was tracing the inlet with Dr Solander, Mr Banks was endeavouring to
penetrate into the country, where several of the people who had leave to
go ashore were also rambling about. Mr Banks and his party found their
course obstructed by a swamp, covered with mangroves, which, however,
they resolved to pass; the mud was almost knee deep, yet they resolutely
went on, but before they got half way, they repented of their
undertaking: The bottom was covered with branches of trees interwoven
with each other, sometimes they kept their footing upon them, sometimes
their feet slipt through, and sometimes they were so entangled among
them, that they were forced to free themselves by groping in the mud and
slime with their hands. In about an hour, however, they crossed it, and
judged it might be about a quarter of a mile over. After a short walk
they came up to a place where there had been four small fires, and near
them some shells and bones of fish, that had been roasted: They found
also heaps of grass laid together, where four or five people appeared to
have slept. The second lieutenant, Mr Gore, who was at another place,
saw a little water lying in the bottom of a gully, and near it the track
of a large animal: Some bustards were also seen, but none shot, nor any
other bird except a few of the beautiful loriquets which we had seen in
Botany Bay. Mr Gore, and one of the midshipmen, who were in different
places, said that they had heard the voices of Indians near them, but
had seen none. The country in general appeared sandy and barren, and
being destitute of fresh water, it cannot be supposed to have any
settled inhabitants. The deep gullies, which were worn by torrents from
the hills, prove that at certain seasons the rains here are very copious
and heavy.
The inlet in which the ship lay I called Thirsty Sound, because it
afforded us no fresh water. It lies in latitude 22° 10' S. and longitude
210° 18' W. and may be known by a group of small islands lying under the
shore, from two to five leagues distant, in the direction of N.W. and by
another group of islands that lie right before it, between three and
four leagues out at sea. Over each of the points that form the entrance
is a high round hill, which on the N.W. is a peninsula that at high
water is surrounded by the sea; they are bold to both the shores, and
the distance between them is about two miles. In this inlet is good
anchorage in seven, six, five, and four fathom; and places very
convenient for laying a ship down, where, at spring-tides, the water
does not rise less than sixteen or eighteen feet. The tide flows at the
full and change of the moon about 11 o'clock. I have already observed
that here is no fresh water, nor could we procure refreshment of any
other kind. We saw two turtles, but we were not able to take either of
them; neither did we catch either fish or wild-fowl, except a few small
land-birds: We saw indeed the same sorts of water-fowl as in Botany Bay,
but they were so shy that we could not get a shot at them.
As I had not therefore a single inducement to stay longer in this place,
I weighed anchor at six o'clock in the morning of Thursday the 31st of
May, and put to sea. We stood to the N.W. with a fresh breeze at S.S.E.
and kept without the group of islands that lie in shore, and to the N.W.
of Thirsty Sound, as there appeared to be no safe passage between them
and the main: At the same time we had a number of islands without us,
extending as far as we could see: During our run in this direction our
depth of water was ten, eight, and nine fathom. At noon, the west point
of Thirsty Sound, which I have called Pier Head, bore S. 36 E. distant
five leagues; the east point of the other inlet, which communicates with
the sound, bore S. by W. distant two leagues; the group of islands just
mentioned lay between us and the point, and the farthest part of the
main in sight, on the other side of the inlet, bore N.W. Our latitude by
observation was 21° 53'. At half an hour after twelve, the boat, which
was sounding a-head, made the signal for shoal water, and we immediately
hauled our wind to the N.E. At this time we had seven fathom, at the
next cast five, and at the next three, upon which we instantly dropped
an anchor that brought the ship up. Pier Head, the north-west point of
Thirsty Sound, bore S.E. distant six leagues, being half-way between the
islands which lie off the east point of the western inlet, and three
small islands which lie directly without them. It was now the first of
the flood, which we found to set N.W. by W. 1/2 W.; and having sounded
about the shoal, upon which we had three fathom, and found deep water
all round it, we got under sail, and having hauled round the three
islands that have been just mentioned, came to an anchor under the lee
of them, in fifteen fathom water; and the weather being dark, hazy, and
rainy, we remained there till seven o'clock in the morning. At this time
we got again under sail, and stood to the N.W. with a fresh breeze at
S.S.E.; having the main land in sight, and a number of islands all round
us, some of which lay out at sea as far as the eye could reach. The
western inlet, which in the chart is distinguished by the name of Broad
Sound, we had now all open; at the entrance, it is at least nine or ten
leagues wide: In it, and before it, lie several islands, and probably
shoals also; for our soundings were very irregular, varying suddenly
from ten to four fathom. At noon, our latitude by observation was 21°
29' S., a point of land which forms the north-west entrance into Broad
Sound, and which I named _Cape Palmerston_, lying in latitude 21° 30',
longitude 210° 54' W. bore W. by N. distant three leagues. Our latitude
was 21° 27', our longitude 210° 57'. Between this Cape and Cape
Townshend lies the bay which I called the _Bay of Inlets_. We continued
to stand to the N.W. and N.W. by N. as the land lay, under an easy sail,
having a boat a-head to sound: At first the soundings were very
irregular, from nine to four fathom; but afterwards they were regular,
from nine to eleven. At eight in the evening, being about two leagues
from the main land, we anchored in eleven fathom, with a sandy bottom,
and soon after we found the tide setting with a slow motion to the
westward. At one o'clock it was slack, or low water; and at half an hour
after two the ship tended to the eastward, and rode so till six in the
morning, when the tide had risen eleven feet. We now got under sail, and
stood away in the direction of the coast, N.N.W. From what we had
observed of the tide during the night, it is plain that the flood came
from the N.W., whereas the preceding day, and several days before, it
came from the S.E.; nor was this the first or even second time that we
had remarked the same thing. At sun-rise this morning, we found the
variation to be 6° 45' E.; and in steering along the shore, between the
island and the main, at the distance of about two leagues from the main,
and three or four from the island, our soundings were regular from
twelve to nine fathom; but about eleven o'clock in the forenoon we were
again embarrassed with shoal water, having at one time not more than
three fathom, yet we got clear without casting anchor. At noon we were
about two leagues from the main, and four from the islands without us.
Our latitude by observation was 20° 56', and a high promontory, which I
named _Cape Hillsborough_, bore W. 1/2 N., distant seven miles. The land
here is diversified by mountains, hills, plains, and valleys, and seems
to be well clothed with herbage and wood: The islands which lie parallel
to the coast, and from five to eight or ten miles distant, are of
various height and extent; scarcely any of them are more than five
leagues in circumference, and many are not four miles: Besides this
chain of islands, which lies at a distance from the coast, there are
others much less, which lie under the land, from which we saw smoke
rising in different places. We continued to steer along the shore at the
distance of about two leagues, with regular soundings from nine to ten
fathom. At sun-set, the farthest point of the main bore N. 48 W. and to
the northward of this lay some high land, which I took to be an island,
and of which the north-west point bore 41 W.; but not being sure of a
passage, I came to an anchor about eight o'clock in the evening, in ten
fathom water, with a muddy bottom. About ten we had a tide setting to
the northward, and at two it had fallen nine feet; after this it began
to rise, and the flood came from the northward, in the direction of the
islands which lay out to sea; a plain indication that there was no
passage to the N.W. This however had not appeared at day-break, when we
got under sail and stood to the N.W. At eight o'clock in the morning, we
discovered low land quite across what we took for an opening, which
proved to be a bay, about five or six leagues deep; upon this we hauled
our wind to the eastward round the north point of the bay, which at this
time bore from us N.E. by N. distant four leagues: From this point we
found the land trend away N. by W. 1/2 W. and a streight or passage
between it and a large island, or islands, lying parallel to it. Having
the tide of ebb in our favour, we stood for this passage; and at noon
were just within the entrance: Our latitude by observation was 20° 26'
S.; Cape Hillsborough bore S. by E. distant ten leagues; and the north
point of the bay S. 19 W. distant four miles. This point, which I named
_Cape Conway_, lies in latitude 26° 36' S., longitude 211° 28' W.; and
the bay which lies between this Cape and Cape Hillsborough I called
_Repulse Bay_. The greatest depth of water which we found in it was
thirteen fathom, and the least eight. In all parts there was safe
anchorage, and I believe, that upon proper examination, some good
harbours would be found in it; especially at the north side within Cape
Conway; for just within that Cape there lie two or three small islands,
which alone would shelter that side of the bay from the southerly and
southeasterly winds, that seem to prevail here as a Trade. Among the
many islands that lie upon this coast, there is one more remarkable than
the rest; it is of a small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies E. by
S. ten miles from Cape Conway, at the south end of the passage. In the
afternoon, we steered through this passage, which we found to be from
three to seven miles broad, and eight or nine leagues in length, N. by
W. 1/2 W., S. by E. 1/2 E. It is formed by the main on the west, and by
the islands on the east, one of which is at least five leagues in
length: Our depth of water in running through was from twenty to
five-and-twenty fathom, with good anchorage everywhere, and the whole
passage may be considered as one safe harbour, exclusive of the small
bays and coves which abound on each side, where ships might lie as in a
bason. The land both upon the main and islands is high, and diversified
by hill and valley, wood and lawn, with a green and pleasant appearance.
On one of the islands we discovered with our glasses two men and a
woman, and a canoe with an outrigger, which appeared to be larger, and
of a construction very different from those of bark tied together at the
ends, which we had seen upon other parts of the coast; we hoped
therefore that the people here had made some farther advances beyond
mere animal life than those that we had seen before. At six o'clock in
the evening, we were nearly the length of the north end of the passage;
the north-westermost point of the main in sight bore N. 54.W., and the
north end of the island N.N.E. with an open sea between the two points.
As this passage was discovered on Whitsunday, I called it _Whitsunday's
Passage_, and I called the islands that form it _Cumberland Islands_, in
honour of his Royal Highness the Duke. We kept under an easy sail, with
the lead going all night, being at the distance of about three leagues
from the shore, and having from twenty-one to twenty-three fathom water.
At daybreak, we were abreast of the point which had been the farthest in
sight to the north-west the evening before, which I named _Cape
Gloucester_. It is a lofty promontory, in latitude 19° 59'S., longitude
211° 49' W. and may be known by an island which lies out at sea N. by W.
1/2 W. at the distance of five or six leagues from it, and which I
called _Holborne Isle_; there are also islands lying under the land
between Holborne Isle and Whitsunday's Passage. On the west side of Cape
Gloucester the land trends away S.W. and S.S.W. and forms a deep bay,
the bottom of which I could but just see from the mast-head: It is very
low, and a continuation of the low land which we had seen at the bottom
of Repulse Bay. This bay I called _Edgecumbe Bay_, but without staying,
to look into it, we continued our course to the westward, for the
farthest land we could see in that direction, which bore W. by N. 1/2 N.
and appeared very high. At noon, we were about three leagues from the
shore, by observation in latitude 19° 47' S., and Cape Gloucester bore
S. 63 E. distant seven leagues and a half. At six in the evening, we
were abreast of the westermost point just mentioned, at about three
miles distance, and because it rises abruptly from the low lands which
surround it, I called it _Cape Upstart_. It lies in latitude 19° 39' S.,
longitude 212° 32' W., fourteen leagues W.N.W. from Cape Gloucester, and
is of a height sufficient to be seen at the distance of twelve leagues:
Inland there are some high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape,
afford but a barren prospect. Having passed this Cape, we continued
standing to the W.N.W. as the land lay, under an easy sail, having from
sixteen to ten fathom, till two o'clock in the morning, when we fell
into seven fathom; upon which we hauled our wind to the northward,
judging ourselves to be very near land: At day-break, we found our
conjecture to be true, being within little more than two leagues of it.
In this part of the coast the land, being very low, is nearer than it
appears to be, though it is diversified with here and there a hill. At
noon, we were about four leagues from the land, in fifteen fathom water,
and our latitude, by observation, was 19° 12' S. Cape Upstart bearing S.
32° 30' E. distant twelve leagues. About this time some very large
columns of smoke were seen rising from the low lands. At sun-set, the
preceding night, when we were close under Cape Upstart, the variation
was nearly 9° E., and at sun-rise this day, it was no more than 5° 35'.;
I judged therefore that it had been influenced by iron-ore, or other
magnetical matter, contained under the surface of the earth.
We continued to steer W.N.W. as the land lay, with twelve or fourteen
fathom water, till noon on the 6th, when our latitude by observation was
19° 1' S. and we had the mouth of a bay all open, extending from S. 1/2
E. to S.W. 1/2 S. distant two leagues. This bay, which I named
_Cleaveland Bay_, appeared to be about five or six miles in extent every
way: The east point I named _Cape Cleaveland_, and the west, which had
the appearance of an island, _Magnetical Isle_, as we perceived that the
compass did not traverse well when we were near it: They are both high,
and so is the main-land within them, the whole forming a surface the
most rugged, rocky, and barren of any we had seen upon the coast; it was
not however without inhabitants, for we saw smoke in several parts of
the bottom of the bay. The northermost land that was in sight at this
time, bore N.W. and it had the appearance of an island, for we could not
trace the main-land farther than W. by N. We steered W.N.W. keeping the
main land on board, the outermost part of which, at sun-set, bore W. by
N. but without it lay high land, which we judged not to be part of it.
At day-break, we were abreast of the eastern part of this land, which we
found to be a group of islands, lying about five leagues from the main:
At this time, being between the two shores, we advanced slowly to the
N.W. till noon, when our latitude, by observation, was 18° 49' S. and
our distance from the main about five leagues: The northwest part of it
bore from us N. by W. 1/2 W. the islands extending from N. to E. and the
nearest being distant about two miles: Cape Cleaveland bore S. 50 E.
distant eighteen leagues. Our soundings, in the course that we had
sailed between this time and the preceding noon, were from fourteen to
eleven fathom.
In the afternoon, we saw several large columns of smoke upon the main;
we saw also some people and canoes, and upon one of the islands what had
the appearance of cocoa-nut trees: As a few of these nuts would now have
been very acceptable, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, and with him went
Mr Banks and Dr Solander, to see what refreshment could be procured,
while I kept standing in for the island with the ship. About seven
o'clock in the evening they returned, with an account that what we had
taken for cocoa-nut trees, were a small kind of cabbage-palm, and that,
except about fourteen or fifteen plants, they had met with nothing worth
bringing away. While they were ashore, they saw none of the people, but
just as they had put off, one of them came very near the beach, and
shouted with a loud voice; it was so dark that they could not see him,
however they turned towards the shore, but when he heard the boat
putting back, he ran away or hid himself, for they could not get a
glimpse of him, and though, they shouted he made no reply. After the
return of the boats, we stood away N. by W. for the northermost land in
sight, of which we were abreast at three o'clock in the morning, having
passed all the islands three or four hours before. This land, on account
of its figure, I named _Point Hillock_: It is of a considerable height,
and may be known by a round hillock, or rock, which joins to the Point,
but appears to be detached from it. Between this Cape and Magnetical
Isle the shore forms a large bay, which I called _Halifax Bay_: Before
it lay the group of islands which has been just mentioned, and some
others, at a less distance from the shore. By these islands the Bay is
sheltered from all winds, and it affords good anchorage. The land near
the beach, in the bottom of the Bay, is low and woody, but farther back
it is one continued ridge of high land, which appeared to be barren and
rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we continued standing to the N.N.W.
as the land trended, having the advantage of a light moon. At six, we
were abreast of a point of land which lies N. by W. 1/2 W., distant
eleven miles from Point Hillock, which I named _Cape Sandwich_. Between
these two points the land is very high, and the surface is craggy and
barren. Cape Sandwich may be known not only by the high craggy land over
it, but by a small island which lies east of it; at the distance of a
mile, and some others that lie about two leagues to the northward. From
Cape Sandwich the land trends W. and afterwards N. forming a fine large
bay, which I called _Rockingham Bay_, where there appears to be good
shelter, and good anchorage, but I did not stay to examine it: I kept
ranging along the shore to the northward, for a cluster of small
islands, which lie off the northern point of the Bay. Between the three
outermost of these islands, and those near the shore, I found a channel
of about a mile broad, through which I passed, and upon one of the
nearest islands we saw with our glasses about thirty of the natives,
men, women, and children, all standing together, and looking with great
attention at the ship; the first instance of curiosity we had seen among
them: They were all stark naked, with short hair, and of the same
complexion with those that we had seen before.[79] At noon, our
latitude, by observation, was 17° 59', and we were abreast of the north
point of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us W. at the distance of about
two miles. This boundary of the Bay is formed by an island of
considerable height, which I distinguished by the name of _Dunk Isle_,
and which lies so near the shore as not to be easily distinguished from
it. Our longitude was 213° 57' W. Cape Sandwich bore S. by E. 1/2 E.
distant nineteen miles, and the northermost land in sight N. 1/2 W.: Our
depth of water for the last ten hours had not been more than sixteen,
nor less than seven fathom. At sun-set, the northern extremity of the
land bore N. 25 W. and we kept our course N. by W. along the coast, at
the distance of between three and four leagues, with an easy sail all
night, having from twelve to fifteen fathom water.
[Footnote 79: Dampier was of opinion, from the inattention of the people
of New Holland whom he fell in with, that they had some defect in
vision, so that they could not see at the usual distance. But this
opinion has been long abandoned. Other savages have occasionally
exhibited as strong marks of indifference to objects, one should think,
well fitted to attract their admiration and astonishment. A certain
degree of civilization seems absolutely requisite to rouse the human
mind to feelings of curiosity. Under this degree, man resembles a
vegetable, much more than that animated and intelligent being he becomes
in cultivated society.--E.]
At six o'clock in the morning, we were abreast of some small islands,
which we called _Frankland's Isles_, and which lie about two leagues
distant from the mainland. The most distant point in sight to the
northward bore N. by W. 1/2 W. and we thought it was part of the main,
but afterwards found it to be an island of considerable height, and
about four miles in circuit. Between this island and a point on the
main, from which it is distant about two miles, I passed with the ship.
At noon, we were in the middle of the channel, and by observation in the
latitude of 16° 57' S. with twenty fathom water. The point on the main,
of which we were now abreast, I called _Cape Grafton_: Its latitude is
16° 57' S., and longitude 214° 6' W., and the land here, as well as the
whole coast for about twenty leagues to the southward, is high, has a
rocky surface, and is thinly covered with wood: During the night we had
seen several fires, and about noon some people. Having hauled round Cape
Grafton, we found the land trend away N.W. by W., and three miles to the
westward of the Cape we found a bay, in which we anchored about two
miles from the shore, in four fathom water with an oozy bottom. The east
point of the bay bore S. 74 E., the west point S. 83 W., and a low,
green, woody island, which lies in the offing, N. 35 E. This island,
which lies N. by E. 1/2 E. distant three or four leagues from Cape
Grafton, I called _Green Island_.
As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor, I went ashore, accompanied
by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. As my principal view was to procure some
fresh water, and as the bottom of the bay was low land covered with
mangroves, where it was not probable fresh water was to be found, I went
out towards the Cape, and found two small streams, which however were
rendered very difficult of access by the surf and rocks upon the shore:
I saw also, as I came round the Cape, a small stream of water run over
the beach, in a sandy cove, but I did not go in with the boat, because I
saw that it would not be easy to land. When we got ashore, we found the
country every where rising into steep rocky hills, and as no fresh water
could conveniently be procured, I was unwilling to lose time by going
in search of lower land elsewhere: We therefore made the best of our way
back to the ship, and about midnight we weighed and stood to the N.W.,
having but little wind, with some showers of rain. At four in the
morning, the breeze freshened at S. by E. and the weather became fair:
We continued steering N.N.W. 1/2 W. as the land lay, at about three
leagues distance, with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom water. At ten,
we hauled off north, in order to get without a small low island, which
lay at about two leagues distance from the main, and great part of which
at this time, it being high-water, was overflowed: About three leagues
to the north-west of this island, close under the main land, is another
island, the land of which rises to a greater height, and which at noon
bore from us N. 55 W. distant seven or eight miles. At this time our
latitude was 16° 20' S. Cape Grafton bore S. 29 E. distant forty miles,
and the northermost point of land in sight N. 20 W.; our depth of water
was fifteen fathom. Between this point and Cape Grafton, the shore forms
a large, but not a very deep bay, which being discovered on Trinity
Sunday, I called _Trinity Bay_.