Elbeuf has two churches worthy of our attention, St. Etienne and St.
Jean, but the former is very much the better. In St. Jean the first four
windows on the right, three of those opposite them, and the first on
each side in the Lady Chapel are all of the sixteenth century. There is,
however, so much restoration as to greatly diminish our interest, except
in the Lady Chapel. There the one to the right displays scenes from the
life of the Virgin, with a label below each. The lower right-hand panel,
in which appear Joseph and Mary, carries realism to an extraordinary
point, while its label prevents any misunderstanding of its meaning.
However unsatisfactory St. Jean may prove, we shall be consoled when we
enter St. Etienne. There the whole effect leads up to and culminates in
the splendid bay that, with its three lofty windows, each containing
three lancets in double tiers, forms the eastern end of the choir. There
are no transepts, the nave joining directly on to the choir. Although
the nave glass is all modern, it does not affront the glories of its
older neighbours in the choir, which is, unfortunately, so often the
case elsewhere. One is tempted to confine one's comments to the splendid
easterly screen of colour, but that would be discriminating unjustly.
The famous legend of St. Hubert, dated 1500 (the second from the east in
the southerly choir aisle), has been too much restored, but this is the
only one that can be thus reproached. In the east end of this aisle we
find at the bottom of a window two panels with tapestry-makers at work,
showing that it was the gift of that guild. Across, in the north aisle,
the easternmost window in the north wall is a Tree of Jesse, dated 1523.
Jesse is seated beneath a pavilion; from the tent pole sprouts a vine,
out of whose blossoms arise the usual half-length figures. In the
topmost pane of the traceries, the Virgin is seen emerging from a great
lily.