Our way from Pont-Audemer lies for some little distance through the
large Foret de Brotonne, one of those tidy symmetrical woods produced by
the excellent system of French forestry. Its excellence, however, is
largely practical, for all the charm of the "forest primeval" is pruned
away. On reaching the banks of the Seine we find ourselves in full view
of the pretty town of Caudebec, its graceful cathedral spire beckoning
us across the water. It is just at this point in the river that there
occurs the Mascaret, the local name given to a swift-rushing wave
produced by the conflict between the incoming tide and the outgoing
current of the river; it takes place only at stated intervals and is
then viewed by numerous tourists. Assuming that we have arrived at a
time when the Mascaret is not interfering with navigation, we embark
upon a flat, open ferry-boat and soon reach the bank on the other side
and are off to the cathedral. Few French churches have their Gothic
architecture lightened and beautified by more infinite detail of carving
than this at Caudebec, while over all rises an airy spire encircled at
three different heights by a stone crown--a form of decoration very
unusual and quite lovely. Above the west portal is a gallery that
attracts our notice because its open-work stone railing is composed of
Gothic letters. Once inside the church, we realise that the windows are
well worth a visit, particularly to one seeking quaint details in glass,
for there are many such here. We have already referred in our
introduction to the first window on the right, the Israelites crossing
the Red Sea. In order to render the scene as descriptive and realistic
as possible, red glass is used to make the sea, thus removing any
possible doubt in the observer's mind as to the identity of that body of
water. Almost opposite (the second on the left) is a Tree of Jesse, upon
which the descendants appear at full length instead of as the usual
busts. Much golden brown is used, not only in the intricate convolutions
of the vine, but also in the costumes and in the stone terrace
supporting the pavilion below which Jesse is seated. Above the small
north portal is a pleasing canopy window of the fifteenth century whose
unusual feature is that the bottom of it is curved to fit the arched top
of the door. Because of this unusual base, the customary pedestals at
the foot could not be used, but the irregularly shaped space is
tastefully filled with decorations of yellow stain, surcharged with
shields whose heraldry catches the eye of the American traveller,
because they bear stars on a blue field, as well as red and white
stripes. Fifteenth century canopies also fill the first window to the
east of this portal and the three to the west, one being dated 1442,
and all containing four lancets. A couple of windows across the church
are also of this type, while the whole of the side-lights of the
clerestory contain contemporary light-admitting panels, whose colour is
restricted to a few round bosses bearing golden rays, and to the broad
golden borders which here are carried up into and almost fill the
tracery panes above. Another very unusual feature (and one which we have
just noticed at Conches) is the presence of two pieces of music written
out in the form called "full chant" and borne by angels.
If one can spare the time, Villequier, four kilometres down the Seine,
should be visited. The small church there has seven excellent sixteenth
century windows, one of which, that in the centre on the north side, is
really famous. The lower half of its three lancets each contains a
figure on a white background bearing an etched damasked pattern,
bordered richly in gold. Across the entire upper half is spread out a
spirited naval battle in which four ships are engaged. The armoured
knights are depicted with great vigour, while excellent use is made of
the artistic possibilities provided by three great pennants, two of red
with white crosses, and one of yellow bearing a black eagle.
The route from Caudebec to Rouen is charming, thanks to the
ever-changing views provided by the windings of the Seine. If we please,
we may stop on the way to view the Abbey of St. Wandrille (recently
purchased by Maeterlinck) and also the loftily impressive ruins of the
Abbey of Jumieges. Jumieges, in the midst of its beautiful park, is most
picturesquely situated within one of those very pronounced loops so
common in the lower Seine, which seem to signify the unwillingness of
its waters to depart from this delightful corner of France.