PARIS

Before starting on our thirteenth century tours, Paris supplied us with

very useful results from our comparison of the glass in the Ste.

Chapelle with that of the north rose at Notre Dame. Not so satisfactory

was our study of the fifteenth century canopy windows at St. Severin in

that city. We shall, however, find excellent sixteenth century glass in

several of the Paris churches, and will thus be afforded an opportunity

to prepare for our excursions by obtaining in advance some idea of the

style of that period, and shall also find some examples by its best

artists. Let us begin at St. Germain l'Auxerrois, whose charmingly light

tower and graceful exterior seem to give the lie to the sinister fact

that from this very belfry rang out the signal for the massacre of St.

Bartholomew. The west wall of the north transept provides a reason for

here beginning our study of sixteenth century glass, because there, side

by side, are two very similar windows, harmonising agreeably one with

the other, and yet the architecture of the canopies of one is fifteenth

century Gothic, and of the other, Renaissance. This very conveniently

illustrates for us one of the marked changes which came over our glass.

If the canopies were not enough to date them, other details are not

lacking to perform that service. The earlier window has all the features

of the distant landscape put in with the leads, while in the later one

they are delicately painted on greyish blue; especially note this in the

well scene. The other windows in this transept are also attractive and

the warmth of some of the reds in the bed draperies of the earlier one

of the pair just mentioned should be noticed. The adjusting of the

figures to their panes in the transept rose windows is adroitly handled,

particularly some of the kneeling angels in the south one. In the west

wall of the south transept, the problem of placing a central figure when

the architect provided only four, instead of five lancets, is gracefully

overcome.

At St. Gervais we have one of the few opportunities to compare two of

the greatest artists produced by the new school--Robert Pinaigrier and

Jean Cousin--but that is about all that can be said for this ugly

church, where architecture, white windows and modern glass combine to

drive away the student. The best window is by Pinaigrier, the Judgment

of Solomon (second on the right in the choir chapels); it is dated 1531,

and although considered by many his masterpiece, seems to us to have too

much marble pavement, etc., for its personages; and further, the little

scenes in the tracery lights contrast disagreeably not only with the

picture below, but also with its minarets and their sky background which

jut up into the space above. We must, however, note how the accurate

perspective contributed by the lines of the pavement and the distant

architecture facilitates the correct stationing of the figures without

confusing them as to position or foreshortening. His, also, are the

twelve panels in the Lady Chapel, giving scenes from the life of the

Virgin Mary: here the composition is delightful. We may remark in

passing that at least one of them displays verses which by reason of

their quaint expressions are less suited to our times than to the more

unrestrained speech of those earlier days. Jean Cousin's window, the

Martyrdom of St. Lawrence (1551), is the first on the right in the

choir, and though good in technique, is not attractive. We should

reserve judgment upon his work until after we have visited Vincennes.

Across the river and at the top of the hill crowned by the Pantheon is

to be found an edifice that looks more like an architectural freak than

a church--St. Etienne-du-Mont. It seems to realise its own ugliness and

tries to conceal itself behind the Pantheon. Once we enter its portal we

find a vast improvement over the distressing exterior of this confection

of stone. There are plenty of spacious windows and a general airy

effect. Swung high in the air across the front of the choir is a

graceful stone jube arch, seemingly fastened to the columns at each end

by double loops of delicate spiral stairways. The choir is so lightly

constructed, and with so few obstructing columns, that the whole of the

ambulatory space becomes a part of it. This arrangement enables us to

enjoy the glazing of the ambulatory and the choir chapels from all parts

of the building. A little door marked "Sacristie" leads off from the

ambulatory through a corridor to the Chapel of the Catechism. Along the

west wall of this chapel are ranged a series of twelve panels by

Pinaigrier, and because they are on the level of the observer's eye, he

is afforded every facility for examining what could be accomplished by a

great artist in enamelling colour on glass. In fact, there is no place

in France where this can be more conveniently studied. Although all

twelve are fine, that devoted to the allegory of the wine press is

easily the best. Oddly enough, it was the gift of a rich wine merchant.

In it are to be found faithful portraits of Pope Paul II, Emperor

Charles V, Francis I, and Henry VIII of England, as well as sundry

cardinals and archbishops, all in rich ceremonial costume. Needless to

say, those individuals have nothing to do with the subject of the

window, but the opportunity to display portraits of them was too good

for the artist to waste. This frequently appears on glass of the period

and sometimes the result verges on the ludicrous.

After visiting these stately temples, the quiet church of St. Merri

appears even more modest and retiring than its obscure site just off the

busy quarter about the Hotel De Ville really renders it. In fact, so

well is it hidden that we would have missed it had we not been seeking

very carefully. The windows here are more interesting than beautiful and

their effectiveness has been impaired in several ways. We read that

during the eighteenth century those in charge of the church, after

careful deliberation, replaced a great deal of the coloured by white

glass, especially in the nave, where they removed the two central

lancets of each group of four, leaving only the upper half of the two

outer ones. Of course, the result was not only disastrous to the

window's general effect, but entirely extinguishes any warmth of tone in

such glass as remains. We cannot but deplore the absence of the

abstracted panes, for the remains in the side lancets and tracery lights

evidence such skill, as well in combination of tones as in drawing (more

particularly in the handling of perspective), that one can readily

imagine what harm has been done. Even the few scenes that are left are

well worth inspection, and are as interesting as any of this epoch in

Paris. Notice in the third window on the right, the way in which the

landscape is carried back until it ends in a little red-topped tower,

from which peer out two heads. Fortunately, these deliberate and

painstaking vandals spared the glass in the three westerly windows on

each side of the choir, and also in the eastern walls of the transepts.

The panels on the left, showing the history of Joseph, are better than

their neighbours across the choir.

Of the sixteenth century glass to be seen in Paris, this much can be

said: it varies markedly, illustrates most of the types of that time,

and is therefore very useful in preparing us for the tours we are about

to take.

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