En route from Le Mans to Sees we must pass directly through Alencon,
famous for its lace, and especially for the sort known as Point
d'Alencon. If en automobile we should stop here long enough to see the
Renaissance glass in the church of Notre Dame. Although of a later
period than that which we are now considering, we must not be so
narrow-minded as to deliberately pass by fine glass, no matter when it
was made. The exterior of Notre Dame struck the writer as curiously
emblematic of the impression which one receives of the town. The church
is squat and ugly, but it is redeemed by the lace-like Gothic of its
western porch, which, fearful lest it be not remarked, thrusts itself
out into the street. In similar fashion, Alencon as a town has its
commonplaceness condoned by reason of the beauty of its lace, a beauty
which is constantly thrust upon your attention by its inhabitants. The
glass to be noticed is around the nave clerestory. A most charming stone
setting is provided for this sixteenth century glazing by the broad and
high embrasures of six lancets each. Particularly note how, at the top
of each sheaf of lancets, the delicate lines of the traceries flow
upward and inward like flames aspiring from a broad-based fire, seeking
the outlet above of a narrow chimney. The picture period is here at its
best, and the artist, regardless of the upright stone mullions, has
spread his subject across all the lancets of each embrasure, and has
lavished upon them all the shades of his richly stocked palette. Over
the west portal we have the same shape of window, but here it is broader
and permits of eight lancets. The subject is the well-worn one of Jesse
and his descendants, but the design is distinctly novel, and an unusual
amount of green foliage against a blue background lends a pleasant tone
to the picture. The descendants are relegated to the upper panes, while
the major portion of the great surface is divided equally between Jesse
(on the right) and a large panel enclosing the scene of the Saviour's
birth (on the left). Of the rest of the glass in this church it is
kindly comment to say that it is unsatisfactory.
But let us push on to Sees, 20 kilometres further. One reads but little
of the cathedral there, and more's the pity, because from any point of
view it is not only admirable, but picturesquely delightful. Placed upon
a slight eminence in the midst of a wide basin, this elevation suffices
to make it visible from a long distance on every side. Its gracefully
aspiring twin spires, its mantle of flying buttresses, the charming
conformation of its eastern end, all conspire to allure us and fill us
with expectations of what a nearer view may reveal. Nor does the
interior fail to realise all this distant promise. What a graceful
lightness of stonework is everywhere visible, supplemented by the
glazier's intelligent delicacy of touch. The nave alone lacks its
ancient glass. Nowhere in France or elsewhere can the fourteenth century
glass artist be seen to greater advantage than at Sees. Very happy is
the way in which his light-admitting grisaille has been enlivened and
decorated by coloured borders and bands of richly-toned, canopy-framed
figures. At Evreux we will find him more splendid, more varied, but
here, around the choir and the transepts, he has worked out more
consistently, more coherently, his new idea of combining translucence
and colour decoration. Dainty, almost dangerously fragile as is the
stonework that supports the upper windows, the glazier's handwork is
daintier still--a film of soft grisaille held in a spider's web of lead
lines, whilst across the middle third are bands of early canopies. Not
only in the clerestory of choir and transepts, but also in the choir
chapels below, do we find this treatment uniformly carried out. The
completeness of the scheme of decoration, as well as the satisfactory
adjustment of colour to grisaille, give an ensemble which we elsewhere
seek in vain. Not satisfied with the illumination provided by his airy
clerestory, the architect has pierced his triforium gallery throughout.
In this lower tier there has been no attempt to introduce figures, the
glazier having contented himself with surrounding his grisaille by
decorated borders. The only exception to this rule is where the
triforium gallery passes below the lovely rosaces that decorate the
transept ends--there, in each case, the row of ten lancets is filled,
alas! with modern glass whose thin tones betray it at once. Fortunately
one is too much absorbed in looking at the great roses above to notice
them very intently. So high up are these rosaces in their respective
walls that the arching of the ceiling actually passes in front of their
upper corners. That in the south transept is a wheel window with
medallions in the ends of the spokes, but instead of the rest of the
openings being glazed in grisaille (as at Rouen Cathedral), colour is
here used throughout. Very different is the north transept rose, from
the centre of which six broad arms diverge, separating groups of
blossom-like apertures. The colour is good, but would have been better
had there been omitted the white borders that make the coloured panels
seem about to start from their sockets. The luminous effectiveness of
the interior is utilised and accentuated by the placing of the
double-faced altar on a raised platform in the middle of the crossing
where the transepts can contribute to its glory equally with the choir.
The high altar carries off the unusual honour of this central position
with great dignity and success.
So much are we seized and held by the charm of the general effect that
we are not tempted, as is so often the case elsewhere, to solace
ourselves with spelling out quaint details in individual windows.
Nevertheless, that form of research is here well worth while. Three
times on the south side of the choir clerestory and again in the second
choir chapel on the left, do we find the donors, ingenuously holding in
their uplifted hands small models of their gift windows. Several times
we will note two canopy panels whose stories must be read together, as
for example in the first choir chapel on the right, where a mounted man
in armour is piercing with his spear the side of the crucified Christ in
the next panel to the right. Interesting as are these and many other
similar details, it is the softly tinted illumination of the whole
interior, more than any particular feature, that makes us remember Sees
Cathedral as one of the most satisfactory French examples of fourteenth
century glazing.