CHAPTER XVIII.

BRITAIN, THE CONTINENT, AND HOME AGAIN.

I went by steamer to Glasgow, as I found the fares by that route

cheaper than to Liverpool. Municipal work in that city was then

attracting world-wide attention, and I enquired into the methods of

taxation and the management of public works, much to my advantage. The

co-operative works at Shields Hall were another source of interest to

me. At Peterborough I stayed with Mr. Hare's daughter, Katie, who had

married Canon Clayton. Never before did I breathe such an

ecclesiastical atmosphere as in that ancient canonry, part of the old

monastery, said to be 600 years old. While there I spoke to the Guild

of Co-operative Women on "Australia." In Edinburgh I had a drawing-room

meeting at the house of Mrs. Muir Dowie, daughter of Robert Chambers

and mother of Minnie Muriel Dowie, who wrote "Through the Carpathians,"

and another at the Fabian Society, both on effective voting. Mrs. Dowie

and Priscilla Bright McLaren, sister of John Bright, were both keen on

the suffrage, and most interesting women. I had been so much associated

with the suffragists in America, with the veteran Susan B. Anthony at

their head, that English workers in the cause gave me a warm welcome.

London under the municipal guidance of the County Council was very

different from the London I had visited 29 years earlier. Perhaps

Glasgow and Birmingham have gone further in municipalizing monopolies

than Londoners have, but the vastness of the scale on which London

moves makes it more interesting. Cr. Peter Burt, of Glasgow, had worked

hard to add publichouses to the list of things under municipal

ownership and regulation, and I have always been glad to see the

increasing attention paid to the Scandinavian methods of dealing with

the drink traffic. I have deplored the division among temperance

workers, which makes the prohibitionists hold aloof from this reform,

when their aid would at least enable the experiment to be tried. But in

spite of all hindrances the world moves on towards better things. It is

not now a voice crying in the wilderness. There are many thousands of

wise, brave, devoted men and women possessed with the enthusiasm of

humanity in every civilized country, and they must prevail. Professor

and Mrs. Westlake, the latter of whom was Mr. Hare's eldest daughter,

arranged a most successful drawing-room meeting for me at their home,

the River House, Chelsea, at which Mr. Arthur Balfour spoke. While he

thought effective voting probably suitable for America and Australia,

he scarcely saw the necessity for it in England. Party leaders so

seldom do like to try it on themselves, but many of them are prepared

to experiment on "the other fellow." In this State we find members of

the Assembly anxious to try effective voting on the Legislative

Council, Federal members on the State House, and vice versa. Other

speakers who supported me were Sir John Lubbock (Lord Avebury), Leonard

(now Lord) Courtney, Mr. Westlake, and Sir John Hall, of New Zealand.

The flourishing condition of the Proportional Representation Society in

England at present is due to the earnestness of the lastnamed

gentlemen, and its extremely able hon. secretary (Mr. John H.

Humphreys).

A few days were spent with Miss Jane Hume Clapperton, author of

"Scientific Meliorism," and we had an interesting time visiting George

Eliot's haunts and friends. Through the Warwickshire lanes--where the

high hedges and the great trees at regular intervals made it impossible

to see anything beyond, except an occasional gate, reminding me of Mrs.

Browning's--

And between the hedgerows green,

How we wandered--I and you;

With the bowery tops shut in,

And the gates that showed the view.

--we saw the homestead known as "Mrs. Poyser's Farm," as it answers so

perfectly to the description in "Adam Bede." I was taken to see Mrs.

Cash, a younger friend of George Eliot, and took tea with two most

interesting, old ladies--one 82, and the other 80--who had befriended

the famous authoress when she was poor and stood almost alone. How I

grudged the thousands of acres of beautiful agricultural land given up

to shooting and hunting! We in Australia have no idea of the extent to

which field sports enter into the rural life of England. People excused

this love of sport to me on the ground that it is as a safety valve for

the energy of idle men. Besides, said one, hunting leads, at any rate,

to an appreciation of Nature; but I thought it a queer appreciation of

Nature that would lead keen fox hunters to complain of the "stinking"

violets that throw the hounds off the scent of the fox. I saw Ascot and

Epsom, but fortunately not on a race day. A horse race I have never

seen. George Moore's realistic novel "Esther Waters" does not overstate

the extent to which betting demoralizes not only the wealthier, but all

classes. There is a great pauper school in Sutton, where from 1,600 to

1,800 children are reared and educated. On Derby Day the children go to

the side of the railroad, and catch the coppers and silver coins thrown

to them by the passengers, and these are gathered together to give the

children their yearly treat. But this association in the children's

minds of their annual pleasure with Derby Day must, I often think, have

a demoralizing tendency.

While in London I slipped in trying to avoid being run down by an

omnibus and dislocated my right shoulder. I was fortunate in being the

guest of Mr. and Mrs. Petherick at the time. I can never be

sufficiently grateful to them for their care of and kindness to me.

Only last year I went to Melbourne to meet them both again. It was the

occasion of the presentation to the Federal Government of the Petherick

Library, and I went over to sign and to witness the splendid deed of

gift.

I have left almost to the last of the account of my English visit all

mention of the Baconians I met and from whom I gained valuable

information in corroboration of the Baconian authorship. In some

circles I found that, to suggest that Shakspeare did not write the

plays and poems was equal to throwing a bombshell among them. As a

Baconian I received an invitation to a picnic at the beautiful country

house of Mr. Edwin Lawrence, with whom I had a pleasant talk. The house

was built on a part of a royal forest, in which firs and pines were

planted at the time of the great Napoleonic wars when timber could not

be got from the Baltic and England had to trust to her own hearts of

oak and her own growth of pine for masts and planks. Mr. Lawrence had

written pamphlets and essays on the Baconian theory, and I found my

knowledge of the subject expanding and growing under his intelligent

talk. His wife's father (J. Benjamin Smith) had taught Cobden the

ethics of free trade. It was through the kind liberality of Miss

Florence Davenport Hill that a pamphlet, recording the speeches and

results of the voting at River House, Chelsea, was printed and

circulated. When I visited Miss Hill and her sister and found them as

eager for social and political reform as they had been 29 years

earlier, I had another proof of the eternal youth which large and high

interests keep within us in spite of advancing years. Miss Davenport

Hill had been a member of the London School Board for 15 years, and was

reelected after I left England. Years of her life had been devoted to

work for the children of the State, and she was a member of the Board

of Guardians for the populous union of St. Pancras. Everyone

acknowledged the great good that the admission of women to those boards

had done. I spent a pleasant time at Toynbee Hall, a University centre,

in the poorest part of London, founded by men. Canon and Mrs. Barrett

were intensely interested in South Australian work for State children.

Similar University centres which I visited in America, like Hull House,

in Chicago, were founded by women graduates. Mrs. Fawcett I met several

times, but Mrs. Garrett Anderson only once. When the suffrage was

granted to the women of South Australia I received a letter of

congratulation from Dr. Helen Blackburn, one of the first women to take

a medical degree. Nowadays women doctors are accepted as part of our

daily life, and it is to these brave pioneers of the women's cause,

Drs. Elizabeth Blackwell, Helen Rackburn, Garrett Anderson, and other

like noble souls, that the social and political prestige of women has

advanced so tremendously all over the English-speaking world. It only

remains now for a few women, full of the enthusiasm of humanity and

gifted with the power of public speaking, to gain another and important

step for the womanhood of the world in the direction of economic

freedom. Before leaving England I was gratified at receiving a cheque

from Mrs. Westlake, contributed by the English proportionalists, to

help me in the cause. This was the second gift of the kind I had

received, for my friends in San Francisco had already helped me

financially on my way to reform. Socially I liked the atmosphere of

America better than that of England, but politically England was

infinitely more advanced. Steadily and surely a safer democracy seems

to be evolving in the old country than in the Transatlantic Republic. I

left England at the end of September, 1894.

My intended visit to Paris was cancelled through the death a short time

before of the only friend I wished to meet there, the Baroness

Blaze-de-Bury, and I went straight through to Bale. I made a detour to

Zurich, where I hoped to see people interested in proportional

representation who could speak English. An interesting fellow-worker in

the cause was Herr Karl Burkli, to whom I suggested the idea of

lecturing with ballots. The oldest advocate of proportional

representation on the Continent, M. Ernest Naville, I met at Geneva. In

that tiny republic in the heart of Europe, which is the home of

experimental legislation, I found effective voting already established

in four cantons, and the effect in these cantons had been so good (said

Ernest Naville) "that it is only a matter of time to see all the Swiss

cantons and the Swiss Federation adopt it." In Zurich Herr Burkli was

delighted that they had introduced progressive taxation into the

canton, but the effect had been to drive away the wealthy people who

came in search of quiet and healthy residence. Progressive taxation has

not by any means proved the unmixed blessing which so many of its

advocates claim it to be. In New Zealand, we are told, on the best

authority, that land monopoly and land jobbery were never so rampant in

the Dominion as since the introduction of the progressive land tax. One

wondered how the three million Swiss people lived on their little

territory, so much occupied by barren mountain, and lakes which supply

only a few fish. My Zurich friends told me that it was by their

unremitting industry and exceptional thrift, but others said that the

foreign visitors who go to the recreation ground of Europe circulate so

much money that instead of the prayer "Give us this day our daily

bread" the Swiss people ask, "Send us this day one foreigner."

In Italy I saw the most intense culture in the world--no pleasure

grounds or deer parks for the wealthy. The whole country looked like a

garden with trellised vines and laden trees. Italian wine was grown,

principally for home consumption, and that was immense. Prohibitionists

would speak to deaf ears there. Wine was not a luxury, but a necessity

of life. It made the poor fare of dry bread and polenta (maize

porridge) go down more pleasantly. It was the greater abundance of

fruit and wine that caused the Italian poorer classes to look healthier

than the German. In Germany, which taxed itself to give cheap beet

sugar to the British consumer, the people paid 6d. a lb. for the little

they could afford to use; and in Italy it was nearly 8d.--a source of

revenue to the Governments, but prohibitive to the poor. There were no

sweet shops in Italy. England only could afford such luxuries. I

visited at Siena a home for deaf mutes, and found that each child had

wine at two of its daily meals--about a pint a day. It was the

light-red wine of the country, with little alcohol in it; but those who

warn us against looking on the wine when it is red will be shocked to

hear of these little ones drinking it like milk. Those, however, who

live in Italy say that not once a year do they see any one drunk in the

streets.

I reached South Australia on December 12, 1894, after an absence of 20

months. I found the women's suffrage movement wavering in the balance.

It had apparently come with a rush--as unexpected as it was welcome to

those whose strenuous exertions at last seemed likely to be crowned

with success. Though sympathetic to the cause, I had always been

regarded as a weakkneed sister by the real workers. I had failed to see

the advantage of having a vote that might leave me after an election a

disfranchised voter, instead of an unenfranchised woman. People talk of

citizens being disfranchised for the Legislative Council when they

really mean that they are unenfranchised. You can scarcely be

disfranchised if you have never been enfranchised; and I have regarded

the enfranchisement of the people on the roll as more important for the

time being than adding new names to the rolls. This would only tend to

increase the disproportion between the representative and the

represented. But I rejoiced when the Women's Suffrage Bill was carried,

for I believe that women have thought more and accepted the

responsibilities of voting to a greater extent than was ever expected

of them. During the week I was accorded a welcome home in the old

Academy of Music, Rundle street, where I listened with embarrassment to

the avalanche of eulogium that overwhelmed me. "What a good thing it

is, Miss Spence, that you have only one idea," a gentleman once said to

me on my country tour. He wished thus to express his feeling concerning

my singleness of purpose towards effective voting. But at this welcome

home I felt that others realized what I had often said myself. It is

really because I have so many ideas for making life better, wiser, and

pleasanter all of which effective voting will aid--that I seem so

absorbed in the one reform. My opinions on other matters I give for

what they are worth--for discussion, for acceptance or rejection. My

opinions on equitable representation I hold absolutely, subject to

criticism of methods but impregnable as to principle.

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