During the first tenure of Rev. W. A. R. Goodwin as Rector of Bruton
Parish, in 1905, the restoration of the church building to its early
condition was begun. While no great alteration had ever been made to its
exterior, the interior arrangements had been modified to such an extent
as to make it scarcely recognizable. The entire arrangement, both within
and without, was now returned, as nearly as available information
permitted, to its condition after an enlargement that had been made in
1751.
During his second incumbency in Williamsburg, Dr. Goodwin became
increasingly impressed with the possibility of preserving this old
capital city as it was in its first period of importance. Only a few
other cities in America had the importance of Williamsburg in the
founding of our nation; and the others—Boston and Philadelphia—had long
since been swallowed up in great commercial cities. Williamsburg, on the
other hand, had remained for two hundred years very much the same both
in spirit and in physical appearance. Through the years it had continued
as the county-seat of an agricultural county and the trading center of
another similar one; no industries, no skyscrapers, no conflagrations
had changed it. To be sure, a few modern buildings would have to be
removed and a considerable number of ancient ones rebuilt. But, at that,
it remained the only center of colonial political importance where a
thorough restoration was thinkable.
[Illustration: HOME OF ROBERT CARTER NICHOLAS]
In connection with meetings of the Phi Beta Kappa Society, Dr. Goodwin
convinced Mr. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., of the soundness of his views in
this regard and studied the situation with him in its broad features.
The following year (1927) Mr. Rockefeller definitely determined to
undertake, with the coöperation of the City, the restoration of the
ancient part of Williamsburg to its condition as of mid-18th century—an
undertaking which is probably the greatest educational accomplishment of
the present century.
The restoration is not yet completed and it is unlikely that further
construction will be possible during the war. It may be roughly
estimated as within eighty or ninety percent of completion. The First
Theater in America is the outstanding public building not yet
reconstructed; the number of residences still awaiting attention is
indefinite but not large.
[Illustration: BASSETT HALL]
Not far from half the buildings now standing in the old part of the city
are the identical buildings which have lasted through from
pre-Revolutionary days. These buildings have been thoroughly repaired,
any modern additions removed and their grounds planted with such trees
and flowers as probably were there in the 18th century. These buildings
are technically described as “restored” in distinction from those which
had been destroyed and are “reconstructed.” A comparison of each
restored building with its condition just before restoration would be
interesting. The principal case available is that of the Cole Shop in
which hangs an oil painting loaned by Mrs. Rockefeller and showing the
interior of the shop in 1938 in contrast with its present condition
which is supposed to be as it was in 1780.
The most apparent change resulting from the restoration is that of Duke
of Gloucester Street itself. Prior to its restoration in 1935 there were
two concrete roadways separated by a strip of grass in which were
unpainted wooden poles carrying electric wires. The restoration of the
street illustrates very well the type of compromises which have been
necessary in order to keep Williamsburg an up-to-date community as it
distinctly was in its first century. Thus, while the wires have been
buried, the street has not been returned to its former condition of six
inches of mud or dust according to the weather; but it has been finished
with a hard surface nearly resembling gravel. The town has not reverted
to flambeaux for the wealthy and darkness for the poor; but the electric
street lights are as old-fashioned as possible. Most nearly impossible
of all problems was that of fire prevention; it was solved by installing
the least conspicuous hydrants in the grass and painting them green.
[Illustration: GEORGE WYTHE HOUSE]
The first buildings to be restored were those of The College. The
original building had suffered from three fires. These gave excuse for
adding the beautiful wings, housing the Chapel and the Great Hall, but
also gave opportunity for departure from the plans of Sir Christopher
Wren; so that the architects estimate that the building as we know it
(and as it was just before the Revolution) is about 50 percent Wren and
50 percent local adjustment. The cost of the third fire, which occurred
while the building was in the hands of Northern troops, was reimbursed
from the Federal Treasury on motion of Senator Hoar of Massachusetts.
[Illustration: ST. GEORGE TUCKER HOUSE]
The Botetourt Statue in the front campus has had a notable history. Lord
Botetourt was the Royal Governor who had repeatedly to prorogue the
Assembly for action inimical to the Crown. Nevertheless, the people of
Virginia respected him deeply for his personal qualities and for his
sincerely democratic sentiments, realizing that his public actions were
such as he was obliged to take regardless of his sympathies. So, after
his death in 1770, the Assembly had this statue made in London by
Sculptor Richard Hayward. The statue was erected in the open corridor of
the Capitol; but during the Revolutionary War feeling against all that
was English ran so high that some of the 100 percent disloyalists threw
it to the ground, with casualties that still are to be seen. When the
excitement somewhat calmed, and after the Capitol had been abandoned as
the seat of government, the Botetourt statue was set up in the College
campus, somewhat nearer the building than at present. During the War
Between the States the statue found refuge with the Eastern State
Hospital, thereafter being brought back to its present location. Lord
Botetourt’s body is entombed in the College Chapel.
[Illustration: A true MAPP of the Town of
WILLIAMSBURG
incorporated, 1722
at one time the CAPITAL of the Colony of
VIRGINIA.]
_A_. Wren Building, A.D. 1695 (pp. 4, 16, 20)
_B_. The Brafferton, 1723 (p. 20)
_C_. The President’s House, 1732 (p. 20)
_D_. The Cole Shop, _c._ 1756 (pp. 15, 24, 25)
_E_. Old County Prison, 1715.
_F_. Travis House, 1765 (p. 12)
_G_. Market Square Tavern, 1749.
_H_. Bland-Wetherburn Tavern, _c._ 1700 (p. 8)
_I_. Office of Secretary of the Colony, _c._ 1748 (p. 25)
_J_. Raleigh Tavern, _c._ 1740 (pp. 7, 8)
_K_. Dr. Blair’s Apothecary Shop, 1717.
_L_. Site of _Virginia Gazette_, 1736.
_M_. Ludwell-Paradise House, 1716 (pp. 6, 27)
_N_. George Wythe’s Residence, 1755 (pp. 16, 27)
_O_. Deane House and Forge.
_P_. Carter-Saunders House (p. 28)
_Q_. Site of First Theater in America, 1716 (p. 28)
_R_. St. George Tucker House, 1788 (pp. 17, 28)
_S_. Peyton Randolph House, _c._ 1715 (pp. 20, 28)
_T_. Coke-Garrett House, 1720 (pp. 21, 30)
_U_. Site of Second Theater, 1751.
_V_. Bassett Hall, 1753 (pp. 15, 30)
_W_. Masonic Lodge.
_X_. William Byrd’s Town House, 1769.
_Y_. Modern Court House.
_Z_. Tazewell Hall (p. 30)
[Illustration: THE RANDOLPH HOUSE]
The President’s House on the right as one faces the Wren Building and
The Brafferton on the left, both date from early 18th century. The
latter was originally a school for Indian boys and was supported by
funds from the estate of the eminent chemist, Robert Boyle. In the 19th
century, when it was no longer used by Indians, it became a home for
faculty members, notably Patrick Kerr Rogers and his son William Barton
Rogers who later founded the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The
Brafferton is one of the ancient buildings which has no record of a
damaging fire. The President’s House was burned while it was being used
by the French army and was restored by King Louis XVI.
The Palace, after the Capital was removed to Richmond, was transferred
to the Army for use as a hospital, during which occupancy it was
accidentally destroyed by fire. The southerly frontage of this property
was later used for the city’s public school. In order to return the
entire site to its original condition, as called for by the restoration
program, a modern school building has been erected just west of the
Palace grounds; also the railroad tracks, which ran through the
Governor’s Garden area, have been relocated to the north; and the entire
garden as well as the Palace itself has been reconstructed. The
extremely interesting research which underlies the entire restoration is
well illustrated in the case of the Palace. Information regarding the
design and construction of the building was obtained in such diverse
places as the Huntington Library in Pasadena, California, and the
Bodleian Library in Oxford, England. Fortunately, the original
foundations were still in good condition.
[Illustration: THE COKE-GARRETT HOUSE]
The restoration of The Capitol was facilitated by the fact that the
colonial legislature, in ordering its erection, determined the design
down to details not only of building but of furnishing. The building
itself, after various vicissitudes, was destroyed by fire in 1832. The
foundations were covered over and preserved by a patriotic group of
women who devoted themselves to saving important historical monuments,
the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities. When the
restoration of Williamsburg was undertaken, they presented this site to
the Restoration organization.
[Illustration: THE COURT HOUSE OF 1770]
Another ancient building which had been preserved (and is still owned)
by the A. P. V. A. is The Powder Horn, more formally known as The Public
Magazine. After the Revolutionary War this building was used for a
variety of purposes, including religious worship, at which time stained
glass windows were installed. When the Baptist Church became strong
enough to build their own edifice just to the east of the Magazine, they
tore down the surrounding wall and used the bricks for the foundation of
the new church. This congregation has now removed to a newer part of the
town and the Powder Horn has been restored to its original condition. In
this building is a collection of Revolutionary arms.
Across the road from the Powder Horn is The Court House of 1770. This is
now commonly called “the Old Court House” since the location of the
still older seat of city and county government (in the rear of the
Powder Horn) has been used for the present modern Court House. The
Restoration of the Old Court House illustrates one of the guiding
policies of the restoration which is to perpetuate the old part of
Williamsburg as it was in the 18th century, by no means with the object
of beautifying it. In 1910 the Old Court House was consumed by fire
except as to the exterior walls. In rebuilding, the structure was
distinctly improved in appearance by addition of columns to support the
piazza roof; in its restoration the columns were omitted, thus securing
authenticity at the expense of beauty. The intention has been to keep to
this policy of authenticity throughout the restoration; it will be
noticed, for example, that the planting in restored gardens is of 18th
century plants, though in many cases modern culture has improved the
species. Within the Old Court House may be seen a selection from the
many tons of artifacts which have been recovered in the course of
excavations about the ancient buildings.
[Illustration: THE PUBLIC GAOL]
As early as 1701, while meeting in the Wren Building, the Virginia
Assembly enacted legislation specifying details not only for the Capitol
but also for a Gaol (pronounced gail, not goal) to be erected on the
north side of the square which was reserved for these buildings and the
office of the Secretary of the Colony. Parts of the Gaol were torn down
after the removal of the state court to Richmond, for Williamsburg has
always been quite law-abiding. The portions thus destroyed have now been
re-added to the surviving building, as also the stocks and pillory
outside the wall. So the whole may now be seen as it stood when
Blackbeard’s men were imprisoned and hanged here.
The final restoration of Bruton Parish Church was made during the last
days of Dr. Goodwin and he was able to visit it during all but the last
stages. At the first service held in the completed edifice his body was
buried beneath the floor of the church by the side of great men of
colonial times. It has been suggested that an appropriate epitaph,
referring not alone to the church but to the community, would be: If you
would see his monument, look about you.
[Illustration: THE COLE SHOP]
The Cole Shop (D) is believed to be the oldest store in America, having
opened for business shortly after 1750. It was built by Charles
Taliaferro, a coach and chair maker. Originally consisting of only one
room, prior to 1782 another small building was moved up and joined to it
on the west as a sort of lean-to, the roof-line which had theretofore
been a symmetrical dormer being extended to cover the addition. At a
later, but still early, date two rooms were added in the rear and the
street elevation was finished off with a false front. In 1804 the shop
was sold to Dr. Jesse Cole in whose family it remained until the death
of his grandson in 1936.
There is no record of the type of goods carried under the Taliaferro
management; but in 1827 a professor newly arrived in Williamsburg wrote
thus of the Cole Shop: “I reached the Post Office which stands in the
Center of Main St. It is one of the Curiosities of this Place.... There
is not an Article whatever in the World which could not be found in it.
It is a Book Seller’s Store in which you will find Hams and French
Brandy; it is an Apothecary’s Shop in which you can provide yourself
with silk Stockings and shell Oysters; it is a Post Office in which you
may have Glisters and chewing Tobacco & in a Word it is a Museum of
natural History in which we meet every Afternoon to dispute about the
Presidential Election and about the Quality of Irish Potatoes.”
[Illustration: OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY OF THE COLONY]
The discussion group referred to by Prof. De La Pena was the famous
Pulaski Club which moves its sessions from indoors to the benches
outside in favorable weather. George Washington, in his diary, refers
repeatedly to attending the club at Mrs. Campbell’s Tavern (near the
Capitol) but in modern times the meeting place has been at the Cole
Shop. This is claimed to be the oldest men’s social club in the country;
and whatever may be the members’ effect on the quality of Irish
potatoes, they have effectively “saved the country” for a long time.
Le Maison des Foux (Eastern State Hospital for the Insane, to you), of
which Dr. Jesse Cole was the Superintendent was founded by the Colony in
1769. It is on the site of the Custis estate where Martha Dandridge
lived with her first husband. The only Custis building still standing is
the small brick house which can be seen over the fence from Francis
Street. This is generally known as “Martha Washington’s Kitchen.”
[Illustration: A PAPER MULBERRY TREE]
[Illustration: THE WILLIAMSBURG INN]
The _Virginia Gazette_ office (L) has not yet been reconstructed. The
_Gazette_, which is now published on Prince George Street, is the oldest
newspaper in the South, having been established in 1736. It probably
also operated the Post Office in the early days of that institution.
The Ludwell-Paradise House (M) now houses Mrs. John D. Rockefeller’s
collection of American Folk Art, ranging from cigar store Indians to oil
paintings. This house was owned and occupied in the early years of the
19th century by Mrs. Lucy Ludwell Paradise, daughter and granddaughter
of two Ludwells who owned this and many other Virginia estates,
including Green Spring. She and her husband held the unique distinction
of maintaining their home in London as the social center of American
sympathizers during the Revolutionary War.
George Wythe’s House (N) was erected in 1755 and has suffered remarkably
little change in the intervening years. The outbuildings were destroyed
and have been reconstructed and the restored house has been furnished
throughout with genuine 18th century furniture. Aside from the Palace,
this is the only restored residence which is open to public inspection,
all others being occupied as private homes, many of them by descendants
of the original owners. George Wythe was a very substantial citizen of
the late colonial and early republican period. He was a Signer of the
Declaration of Independence and, as first law professor in America,
instructed such leaders of democracy as Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe,
John Marshall and St. George Tucker.
The Carter-Saunders House, The Home of Robert Carter Nicholas (P),
Treasurer of the Colony, being a fine house next to the Governor’s
Palace, was close to the social center of the capital city and was
always occupied by socially prominent citizens including more than one
of the mighty Carters and by the Governor himself when his own residence
was undergoing repairs. There is a fine garden which can be seen from
the walk that connects Palace Green with West Scotland Street.
The First Theater in America (Q) has not yet been reconstructed but its
location is marked on the ground. Some of the great English actors of
that day came to play in this house and the social setting was gala
indeed. As cited in a little book, _The Sports of Colonial
Williamsburg_, Shakespeare, Addison, Steele, Ciber and Garrick were
favorite authors in Colonial Williamsburg. This theater is the scene of
Mary Johnston’s book, Audrey. The heroine was portrayed as an actress in
this theater and as living in the delightful old house between the
Theater and the Palace, which is therefore often called “the Audrey
House” or The Brush-Audrey House, it having been built in 1718 by John
Brush, armorer and gunsmith to the Governor and keeper of the Powder
Magazine. In the rear of the Audrey House and the theater site is the
oldest growth of box in Williamsburg; this should be approached from
Scotland Street as the southerly portion of this box garden is so
overgrown that it has been necessary to close it.
The St. George Tucker House (R), one of the most beautiful in
Williamsburg, was ancient in its beginning and was enlarged to its
present dimensions just after the Revolutionary War by St. George Tucker
who came from Bermuda to study law under George Wythe and later
succeeded him as law teacher and author. The house is now occupied by
one of his descendants.
The Randolph House (S) was owned in 1742 by Sir John Randolph, the only
native of Virginia to be knighted. This house was the residence of Gen.
Rochambeau prior to the Battle of Yorktown and probably during the two
years of waiting for the Treaty of Paris. Here, also, Lafayette was
entertained on his return visit to America in 1824.
[Illustration: A PLEACHED ARBOR IN THE GOVERNOR’S GARDEN]
The Coke-Garrett House (T) was begun in 1720 and added to at later times
as shown by various floor levels. Altogether, it is one of the finest
residences in Williamsburg and has a famous old garden which is second
only to that of the Governor.
Bassett Hall (V), the only Williamsburg house with the long straight
avenue approach which was so common out in the country, was built in the
middle of the 18th century. It was at times a residence, at times a
tavern. It takes its name from Martha Washington’s nephew who bought it
soon after the Revolutionary War. Later it was owned by Abel P. Upshur,
a member of President Tyler’s Cabinet and it is believed that
Vice-President Tyler was visiting here when he was notified of his
succession. The estate is now the home of Mr. and Mrs. Rockefeller.
Tazewell Hall (Z) gets its name from an owner who purchased it after it
had been forfeited by John Randolph, the Tory, when he fled to England
at the outset of the Revolutionary War. This John Randolph (who later
returned and was buried in the College Chapel) was the last Attorney
General under the Crown and his son, who was born in this house, was the
first Attorney General of the United States. The house was moved to its
present position to facilitate a real-estate development to the south;
it formerly stood squarely opposite the end of South England Street. As
can be clearly seen, it has not yet been restored.
[Illustration: THE CAPITOL TOWER]
[Illustration: _SKETCH OF
“CITY OF WILLIAMSBURG”
VIRGINIA
1943_
_By Courtesy of the City Manager_]
1—Episcopal Church
2—Methodist Church
3—Presbyterian Church
4—Baptist Church
5—Catholic Church
6—Masonic Lodge
7—U. S. O.
8—Post Office
9—The Lodge
10—Williamsburg Inn
_New Williamsburg_
Williamsburg never grew substantially beyond the limits defined in 1699
until the year 1900 when the boundaries were extended at both ends of
the town to take in the development of population that occurred with the
growth of the College. Repeatedly since then enlargements have been
made, especially as the College grew during the presidency of Dr. J. A.
C. Chandler. Of late there has been building in the Capitol Landing Road
district and out Jamestown Road; but throughout the present century the
principal growth has been along Richmond Road. Here all the churches
except Bruton have built new edifices opposite the College. The
Methodists, it is true, are just inside the ancient city limits, at the
College Corner. At the outset of the restoration it was determined,
whether wisely or not, that the westerly block on each side of Duke of
Gloucester Street should not be restored, but developed for the
convenience of the residents. The shops in these two blocks are designed
to be in keeping with the ancient architecture but are in no way
restorations.
Just within the southern boundary of old Williamsburg, the Restoration
operates two modern hotels: the Williamsburg Inn and The Lodge. The
former is, during the war, reserved for military and naval officers and
their families; the Lodge is still open to the general public. In either
case, reservations should be made in advance, especially for weekends.
Persons planning to visit Williamsburg and desiring accommodations in
private families should communicate in advance with proprietors of
guest-houses or with the Room Registry jointly operated by the Chamber
of Commerce and the U. S. O.; and an advance deposit should be made. The
reason for this is that Williamsburg (as will be seen by the map on page
2) is a very small civilian island almost entirely surrounded by
military and naval establishments populated by many thousands of service
men whose relatives desire to visit them. It is this situation which
leads to the uncertainty of reply when questions are asked as to the
population of Williamsburg. Including the Hospital patients, the 1940
census showed about 4,000 residents. Up to opening of hostilities the
population is supposed to have doubled.
All Williamsburg churches have regular meetings at 11 o’clock Sunday
mornings; the Masons on the second Monday evening of each month; the
Rotary Club every Thursday; the Lions on alternate Tuesdays. For
information about other of their activities it will be well to telephone
as follows:
Roman Catholic Church,
Rev. T. J. Walsh (tel. 411)
Episcopal Church,
Rev. F. H. Craighill (tel. 158)
Baptist Church,
Rev. A. F. Ward (tel. 178-W)
Presbyterian Church,
Rev. C. M. Pratt (tel. 309-R)
Methodist Church,
Rev. L. F. Havermale (tel. 384-J)
Christian Science Church,
Mrs. J. J. Montague (tel. 258-J)
Williamsburg Lodge No. 6, A.F. & A.M.,
Mr. B. C. Creasy (tel. 24)
Rotary Club,
Mr. M. W. Foster (tel. 270)
Lions Club,
Capt. W. H. Kelly (tel. 226)