Though I well knew that packeteers did not carry firearms, I asked
Chief Factor Thompson--just for the sake of getting the truth from him
and giving it to the public:
"How does the Hudson's Bay Company arm their packeteers?"
"Arm them?" the Chief Factor laughed outright, "why, we always provide
them with an axe."
"Firearms, I mean."
"Firearms! Why, they aren't allowed to carry firearms at all. It's
against the rules and regulations of the Company. In the first place,
packeteers are supplied with plenty of grub for the trip; in the next
place, if they had a gun they might go hunting and fooling around with
it instead of attending to their business; and, moreover, it doesn't
matter whether the mail travels two hundred or two thousand miles,
there is no occasion for packeteers to carry firearms, for there are no
highwaymen and no animals in this country that would make an offensive
attack upon them."
And in truth, in all that wild brigade there were no fire-arms save
Oo-koo-hoo's old muzzle-loader; but then The Owl was a hunter by
profession, and he carried a gun only as a matter of business. Now for
the last twenty-five years that is exactly what I have wanted to tell
the public. When one reads a story, or sees a play or a moving
picture, in which characters bristling with firearms are set forth as
veritable representatives of life in the Canadian wilderness, he may
rest assured that the work is nothing but a travesty on life in Canada.
Any author, any illustrator, any playwright, any scenario writer, any
actor or any director who depicts Canadian wilderness life in that way
is either an ignoramus or a shameless humbug. And to add strength to
my statement I shall quote the experience of a gentleman who was the
first City Clerk, Treasurer, Assessor, and Tax Collector of Dawson
City--Mr. E. Ward Smith:
POLICE AND GUNMEN
"The Mounted Police generally received word in advance when any
particularly bad character was headed for the Yukon, and in all such
cases he was met when he slipped off the boat. I remember particularly
one case of the kind, as I happened to be on hand when the American
gunman landed. He was a quiet enough looking individual and had no
weapons of any kind in sight, but a close scrutiny revealed the fact
that he had a particularly evil eye in his sandy-freckled face. One of
the Mounties picked him out unerringly and tapped him on the shoulder.
"'Gat Gardiner?' he asked.
"'No,' said the newcomer. 'My name is Davidson.'
"'I happen to know you as Gat Gardiner,' insisted the policeman. 'Got
any weapons on you?'
"'Leave go of me,' flared the so-called Davidson, all the veneer of
civility gone. 'You got nothing on me. Let go, I say!'
"'I've got something on you,' declared the policeman, hauling a
revolver from the hip pocket of the man. 'Carrying concealed weapons
is against the law on this side the line. Back on the boat, you, and
don't you dare put foot ashore or I'll have you in jail. You go back
the way you came.'
"And Gardiner went. I saw him leaning over the rail when the boat
started on the return trip and he shook his fist at the policeman on
the wharf and emitted a string of vile oaths. But he never came back.
"When the notorious 'Soapy' Smith was killed at Skagway, Alaska, his
gang of desperadoes was promptly broken up and word came to Dawson that
some of them were headed for the Canadian side. They were gathered in
as soon as they crossed the line, denuded of weapons, and sent back.
Not one of the gang eluded the vigilance of the police.
"The law against carrying concealed weapons was a big factor in keeping
the peace. Comparatively few men took advantage of their legal right
to carry a revolver in sight. I remember seeing an open box in a
pawnshop containing the most amazing collection of weapons I had ever
set eyes on--revolvers with silver handles, pistols of carved ivory,
antiquated breech-loaders, weapons of fantastic design, and, probably,
of equally fantastic history, strange implements of death that had come
from all climes and bespoke adventures on all the seven seas.
"'Where did you get the lot?' I asked the proprietor.
"'They all sell their shooting irons. No use for them here. I get 'em
for practically nothing. Help yourself if you have any fancy that way.
I'll make you a present of anything you want.'
"So much for the wild Yukon of the novelists! Instead of lurching into
the dance hall and blazing away at the ceiling, picture the
'old-timer', the hardened miner of a hundred camps, planking down his
pistols on the counter of the pawnshop and asking 'How much?' That's
the truer picture."
As part of my boyhood education was derived from the study of American
illustrated magazines, I was led by those periodicals to believe that
the North American wilderness was inhabited by wild and woolly men
bedecked with firearms, and ever since I have been on the lookout for
just such characters. Now while I cannot speak for the Western States,
I can at least speak for Canada; and I must now admit that, during my
thirty-three years of contact with wilderness life, on one
occasion--but on one only--I found that there was justification for
describing the men of the northern wilderness as carrying firearms for
protection. But does not the one exception prove the rule?
It happened near Stewart, on the borderline of Alaska, several years
ago. I encountered a prospector who wanted to cross Portland Canal
from Alaska to Canada, and as I was rowing over, I offered to take him
across. When, however, he turned to pick up his pack I caught sight of
something that fairly made me burst out laughing; for it was as funny a
sight as though I had witnessed it on Piccadilly or Broadway. At first
I thought he was a movie actor who, in some unaccountable way, had
strayed from Los Angeles and become lost in the northern wilderness
before he had had time to remove his ridiculous "make-up"; but a moment
later he proved beyond doubt that he was not an actor, for he blushed
scarlet when he observed that I was focussing a regular Mutt-and-Jeff
dotted-line stare at a revolver that hung from his belt, and he
faltered:
"But . . . Why the mirth?"
"Well, old man," I laughed again, "for over twenty-five years I have
been roaming the Canadian wilderness from the borderline of Maine right
up here to Alaska, and in all that time--with the exception of the
Constables of the North-West Mounted Police--you are the first man,
woman, or child, I have seen carrying a revolver. And I swear, old
dear, that that's the truth. So now, do you wonder that I laugh?"
RECORD TRAVELLING
But to return to the Hudson's Bay Company's packet system, I asked
Chief Factor Thompson:
"Which is the more important, the summer or the winter mail?"
"Oh, the winter; for, when inward bound, it bears the Commissioner's
instructions to the district chief factors; and, when outward bound, it
contains information regarding the results and the progress of the
fur-trade, and orders for additional supplies."
"How many miles a day do the packeteers average on their winter trips?"
"Well," replied the Chief Factor, "I think the rate of speed maintained
by our packeteers is remarkable; especially when one considers the
roughness of the country, the hardships of winter travel, the fact that
the men must make their bread, cook their meals, care for their dogs,
and, when on the trail, cannot even quench their thirst without halting
to build a fire and melt snow. Yet the packeteers of the Mackenzie
River mail cover their two thousand miles on snowshoes at an average
rate of twenty-seven and a half miles a day, including all stoppages."
"That is certainly splendid travelling. Some of the packeteers, I
should judge, have made great records; haven't they?"
"Yes, that's true," acknowledged the trader, "the packeteers do make
great efforts to break records between posts. But, though they may
have succeeded in cutting down the time, their achievement is never
mentioned on the way-bill, nor does it affect the time allowed for the
completion of the trip; for, though the mail be brought in ahead of
time, it is never handed over to the relay until the appointed hour has
struck. Otherwise, the whole system would be thrown out of gear.
Exceptionally fast runs are not shown upon the way-bills, because they
would eventually affect the average time allowed for the trip; and in
stormy weather that would be hard upon the packeteers. The time
allowed for the transmission of a packet is calculated on a ten-years'
average. No excuse for delay, except death, is tolerated. At each
post on certain fixed dates relays of men and dogs are kept in
readiness to forward the mail without delay. A through way-bill
accompanies every packet from point of departure to point of delivery.
At each post along the route the time of arrival and the time of
departure of the mail must be entered upon the way-bill, as well as the
names of the packeteers and of the officers in charge."
"I understand that packets contain not only the despatches of the
Company, but the private mail of the employees, that of missionaries of
all denominations, that of chance 'explorers' or travellers, and even
that of opposition fur-traders. Is that a fact?"
"Yes, sir, and moreover, no charge is made by the Company."
"Do the Company's officers experience much trouble in procuring men to
act as packeteers?"
"Oh, no; none whatever. As a rule, when men enter the Company's
service, they stipulate that they shall be given a place on the packet;
for that affords them an opportunity to pay a visit to the next post,
and to join in the dance which is always held on the arrival of the
mail. Trippers consider themselves greatly honoured on being given
charge of a packet; for it means that they are held to be trustworthy,
and thoroughly familiar with the topography of the district."
"Before the advent of the railroad and the steamboat, which was the
longest of the Company's packet routes?"
"By all odds that of the Yukon packet. It made the journey from
Montreal to Fort Yukon, which was then situated at the junction of the
Porcupine and Yukon rivers. It was routed by way of the Ottawa River,
Lake Huron, Lake Superior, Lake of the Woods, Lake Winnipeg, the
Athabasca River, the Slave River, and the Mackenzie River. It was
forwarded in summer by canoe, in winter by dog-train, for the enormous
distance of four thousand five hundred miles. And let me tell you, it
is to-day, as it was two hundred years ago, the pride of the Company's
people that not one packet was ever lost beyond recovery. Packeteers
have been drowned, frozen, burned, shot, smothered, and even eaten; but
the packet has always reached its destination somehow."
BEAR HOLDS UP MAIL
A sudden burst of laughter from the men at a neighbouring fire
attracted the attention of Chief Factor Thompson, and glancing over, he
remarked to me:
"Telling yarns, eh! Let's go over and listen."
Twelve or fifteen men were crowded round that fire--including Factor
Mackenzie, the Rev. Mr. Wilson, Father Jois, and Oo-koo-hoo--and they
were now coaxing "Old Billy Brass" to tell the next story. He was a
wiry little white man of about sixty who had seen much service in the
Hudson's Bay Company. He hesitated. They clamoured again, and he
began:
"But talkin' 'bout bears reminds me of a little affair I once had on
the Peace River," said the old man, glancing slyly from the corner of
his eye to see what effect his statement made upon his campfire
companions. Billy was sitting cross-legged upon his caribou robe; and,
as he turned the browning bannocks before the fire, he continued:
"Well, as I was sayin', me an' Old-pot-head's son once had a go with a
great big black bear away up on the Peace River. But, don't you forget
it, Billy Brass didn't lose the packet."
"Come, Billy, tell us all about it," coaxed the Chief Factor, well
knowing that if he were once started there would be on his part little
need of urging in order to extract from the old tripper all he knew, or
could invent to suit the occasion.
"Well, gentlemen, if you ain't too sleepy, an' if some o' you boys'll
watch the bannock, I don't mind tellin'," replied Billy as he leaned
toward the fire, picked up a red-hot coal, and palmed it into his pipe.
"But I can't give a funny bear story, the same as you've been tellin',
because all my experiences with bears have been mighty serious.
However, I'll try and tell you 'bout me an Old-pot-head's son; an' to
my mind it's the most serious of 'em all.
"As I was sayin', we was in charge of the Peace River packet; an' if it
hadn't been for the charm Father La Mille blessed for me at Fort Good
Hope, I don't know 's I'd be here to tell about it.
"Anyway, me an' Old-pot-head's son was carryin' the packet and headin'
for Hudson's Hope. It was the fall packet, an'--as winter was just
about due--we was hustlin' 'long for all we was worth, an' jabbin'
holes in the river with our paddles as fast as we could, in fear o' the
freeze up.
"As bad lack would have it, that very night the ice overtook us, an' we
had to leave the canoe ashore an' finish the voyage afoot. Lucky for
us, we was only about three-days' travel from the Fort, so we leaves
our axe an' whatever we don't particular need with the canoe.
"Mile after mile we walks along the river bank; an' as we don't have no
extra moccasins, our bare skin was soon upon the sand. What with
havin' our duds torn by bushes, an' our fallin' in the mud once or
twice, and several times a-wadin' creeks, we was a pretty sight when we
stops to camp that night. When the sun went down, we was so tired that
we just stopped dead in our tracks. We had been packin' our blankets,
our grub, an' cookin' gear to say nothin' o' the packet; so, of course,
we didn't give much thought to the campin' ground. But after supper I
looks round an' sees that we'd made our fire down in a little hollow,
an' that the place was bare o' trees 'ception three that stood in a row
'bout four lengths of a three-fathom canoe from our fire. The middle
one was a birch with a long bare trunk, an' on each side stood a pine.
Now, I want you gentlemen to pay perticler 'tention to just how they
stood; for them three trees is goin' to do a mighty lot o' figgerin' in
this here story.
"As I was sayin', there was two pines with a birch in between, an' all
standin' in a row, with the upper branches o' pines runnin' square in
among the branches o' the birch. 'Bout half ways between the birch and
the east pine, but a trifle off the line, was a pool o' water. Before
I turns in for the night, I takes the packet an' sticks it on the end
of a long pole, an' shoves it up against the birch tree, for fear o'
the fire spreadin' an' burnin' up the mail.
"Me an' Old-pot-head's son turns in an' sleeps as sound as any trippers
could. Some time in the night I wakes up with a mighty start that
almost busts me heart. Somethin' was maulin' me. So, with me head
still under the blanket, for I dassn't peep out, I sings out to the
Injun an' asks him what in creation he's kickin' me for; an' if he
couldn't wake me without killin' me. Old-pot-head's son yells back
that he hasn't touched me. Then you bet I was scared; for the thing
hauls off agen an' gives me a clout that knocks the wind plum' out o'
me.
"Just then I heard Old-pot-head's son shout, 'Keep still, Bill, it's a
big black bear.' I grabs the edges o' me blanket an' pulls 'em in under
me so hard I thinks I've bust it. But the bear keeps on maulin' me,
an' givin' me such hard swats that I began to fear it'd cave in me
ribs."
"But, Billy, why didn't you shoot it?" asked the Reverend Mr. Wilson.
"Shoot? Why, your reverence, don't you know, packeteers never carries
a gun?" the old man exclaimed with disgust, and then continued his
story:
"Not content with that, the brute starts to roll me over an' over. An'
all the time I'm doin' me best to play dead. Now you needn't laff.
I'd like to see any o' youse pretendin' you was dead while a big bear
was poundin' you that hard that you begin to believe you ain't
shammin'. An' when that ugly brute hauls off an' hits me agen, I
decides then an' there that there's no occasion to sham it. But just
as soon as I makes up my mind I'm dead, the bear leaves me; an' when I
can no longer hear him breathin', I peeps out of a tiny little hole,
and sees the big brute maulin' me old friend the Injun. Then I takes
another peep roun', an' don't see no escape 'cept by way o' them three
trees, so I just jumps up, an' lights out like greased lightnin' for
the nearest tree. After me comes the bear gallopin'. I guess that was
the quickest runnin' I ever done in all me life. I just managed to
climb into the lower branches o' the west pine as the bear struck the
trunk below me.
"When I stops for breath in the upper branches, I sees the old bear
canterin' back agen to have another go with me pardner.
"Just as soon as I was safe, the whole performance struck me as bein'
pretty funny, an' I couldn't help roarin' out and a-laffin' when I saw
the beast maulin' Old-pot-head's son, an' him tryin' for all he was
worth to play dead.
"Thinks I, I'll make me old friend laff. So I starts in to guy him,
an' he begins to snicker, an' that makes the bear mad, an' he begins to
roll the Injun. Then, you bet, I couldn't make him laff no more; for,
what with shammin' dead, an' bein' frightened to death into the
bargain, I don't think there was much laff left in him.
"You know how bears will act when they sometimes comes across a handy
log? Well, that's just what the beast was doin' with Old-pot-head's
son--it was rollin' him over an' over. The very next second it rolls
his feet into the fire. Down the tree I slid, like snow down a
mountain, an' stood at the foot of it an' pelted the bear with stones.
The Injun's blanket began to smoke. It was no laffin' matter, for I
knowed if I didn't drive the brute off in a jiffy Old-pot-head's son
would be a comin' out of his trance mighty sudden an' that meant a
catch-as-catch-can with a great, big, crazy black bear.
"As good luck would have it, the next time I threw a stone, it landed
on the tip of the bear's snout, an' with a snarl he comes for me. I
waits as long as I dares, then up the tree I skips, with the brute
follerin' me. About half ways up I thinks I hears a human bein'
laffin' in the east pine. So I looks over, an' sure enuff, I sees me
old pardner settin' on a limb an' fairly roarin'. All the same, I was
feelin' mighty squeemish, for the bear was comin' up lickety splinter
after me.
"Just then I spies a good stout branch that reaches out close against a
big limb of the birch, an' I crawls over. As the bear follers me, I
slides down the trunk o' the birch, an' lights out for the east pine
where me pardner was doin' the laffin'. On its way down the bear
rammed itself right smack against the mail-bag; and when the beast
struck ground, it smelt the man smell on the packet, an' began to gnaw
it.
"Now me an' Old-pot-head's son knowed well enuff we had to save the
mail-sack, so I slips down the east pine a ways, an' breaks off dead
branches, an' pelts them at the bear while the Injun crosses over into
the top o' the west pine. Then we both at once slides down as low as
we dares, an' I begins to lamm the brute with a shower o' sticks. Up
the tree it comes for me, while me pardner slips down, grabs the
mail-sack, an' sails up the west pine again.
"That was a mighty clever move, thinks I, but a bag is an orkad thing
to portage when you're meanderin' up an' down a tree with a bear after
you. But the tump-line was on it, just as we carried it the day
before, so it wasn't as bad as it might 'a' been.
"Well, when I went up the east pine, the bear follered, an', as there
wasn't any too much room between me an' the bear, I crosses over into
the birch an' slides down its slippery trunk as tho' it was greased. I
hits the ground a little harder than I wanted to, but didn't waste no
time in lightin' out for the west pine, where the Injun was restin';
an' all the time the bear was tryin' to grab me coat-tails.
"It was just a case of up to the west pine, cross over and down the
birch; then up the east pine, cross over an' down the birch; then up
the west pine, cross over an' down the birch, till we got so dizzy we
could a hardly keep from fallin'. If you could just 'a' seen the way
we tore roun' through them trees, I'll bet you would 'a' done a heap o'
laffin'.
"The bear was mighty spry in goin' up, but when it came to goin' down
he'd just do the drop-an'-clutch, drop-an'-clutch act. That's just
where me an' me pardner had the advantage on the brute; for we just
swung our arms an' legs roun' that birch an' did the drop act, too;
but, somehow, we hadn't time to do the clutch, so our coat-tails got
badly crushed every time we landed.
"It was a kind of go-as-you-please until about the tenth roun', when I
accidentally drops the mail-bag on the bear's head, an' that makes him
boilin' mad; so he lights out after us as tho' he had swallered a
hornet's nest.
"Then away we goes up an' down, up an' down, an' roun' an' roun' that
perpendicular race track, until we made such a blur in the scen'ry that
any fool with half an eye an' standin' half a mile away could 'a' seen
a great big figger eight layin' on its side in the middle o' the
landscape. We took turns at carryin' the packet, but sometimes I
noticed Old-pot-head's son was havin' a good deal of trouble with it.
It didn't seem to bother him much when he was climbin' up; for he just
swung it on his back with the loop o' the tump-line over his head, an'
so he had his hands free. But it was when he was comin' down the
slippery birch that the weight of the bag made him rather more rapid
than he wanted to be; an' so, when he an' the bag struck groun', they
nearly always bounced apart; an' if the Injun failed to get his feet in
time to ketch the sack on the first bounce, I ketched it on the second
bounce as I glode by. So between the two of us we managed to hang on
to the packet.
"By-an'-by, we was gettin' terribly tuckered out. It was a good thing
for us that the bear was gettin' winded an' dizzy as well; because, at
about the sixty-seventh roun', the brute had no sooner gone down the
birch than he bounded up agen just when Old-pot-head's son was
a-climbin' thro' the upper branches o' the birch. So he slips over
into the top o' the east pine, while I stays in the top o' the west
pine, an' the bear sits down in a upper crotch o' the birch.
"Well, we puts in a good many heats of anywhere from twenty-five to
seventy-five laps roun' that track by the time daylight comes, an'
sunrise finds us all ketching our wind in the upper branches. I
noticed that whenever the brute wanted to stop the whirligig it always
climbed up the birch just in time to separate me an' me pardner; an'
there we would sit, me in the west pine, me pardner in the east pine,
an' the black brute right in between.
"About breakfast time me an' the Injun was feelin' mighty hungry.
There we sat cussin' our luck an' castin' longin' glances down at the
grub bag. By the time I'd caught me wind a great idea strikes me.
Durin' the next heat I would rush out. So I sings out my intentions to
me pardner; an' he says he thinks we can do it. So while he was
carryin' Her Majesty's mail I was to try an' grab the grub bag.
"We got ready, an' dropped down them pines so fast that we both hits
groun' before the bear knows what's doin'. Then I leaves that tree
like as if all the animals in the woods was after me. I got on so much
speed that by the time I grabs the grub bag I was goin' so fast that I
couldn't turn roun' without slackin' down. That's where I loses a
terrible amount o' time, an' I was beginnin' to think it was all up
with me. By the time I got headed roun' agen for the tree, I sees that
the bear is comin' down with his back to me. When he hits groun' he
sees the Injun dancin' roun' the foot o' the west pine; so he makes for
the redskin, an' chases him up while I climbs the east pine.
"Then we all went roun' an' roun' for maybe fifty laps, an' the way we
wore the bark off them trees an' trod down the grass between 'em was a
caution. By-an'-by the bear gets so dizzy that he bucks up the birch
agen, an' sure enuff that stops the performance.
"I didn't need any breakfast bell to remind me to open the grub bag. I
just reaches in an' pulls out some busted bannock an' throws a chunk
over to Old-pot-head's son, an' without even sayin' grace, we starts
in. Every little while I'd toss another chunk of bread over to me
pardner an' just out o' sheer spite I'd chuck it so that it would go
sailin' thro' the air right in front o' the bear's snout. That makes
him mad. So he tried to catch the stuff as it flies by; but I just
puts on a little more curve, an' that makes him madder still, an' he
ups an' comes for me.
"Then we all knocks off breakfast an' goes for another canter. But it
don't do no good, 'ceptin' that we all gets puffed out agen. After a
bit, the bear stops to ketch his breath, an' then me an' me pardner
goes on with our breakfast.
"With the bear exercisin' us the way he did, we had to take our
breakfast in a good many courses. That makes it so long drawn out that
we gets mighty thirsty. The Injun asks me if the cups is in the grub
bag. I puts me han' in an' feels, but they ain't there. Then I
remembers that we left them down by the fire. We didn't either of us
care to risk snakin' a cup, so I tells me pardner that the next time we
goes roun' we'd best try an' grab a handful o' water. We didn't have
long to wait, for the bear soon gets another move on; an' then away we
all goes sailin' roun' agen. Every time me an' the Injun canters past
the pool, we just makes a sudden dip an' grabs up a handful o' water
an' throws it in.
"It took so much exercise to get so little water that I thought I'd die
of thirst while I was tryin' to drink me fill. When the bear caught on
to what we was doin', it just made him madder an' madder; an' he lights
out after us at such a breathless clip that we had to fairly gallop up
them pines, an' slide down the birch faster than ever. It wasn't long
before nearly every button was wore off, an' our clothes was so ripped
up an' torn down that I'd blush every time I'd ketch the bear lookin'
at me. An' every time we ran 'long the groun' from one tree to
another, me an' me pardner had to use both hands on our garments in
order to keep up our--er--respectability. However, the bear didn't
have the laff on us altogether, for he had gone up an' down them trees
so often an' so fast that he had worn all the hair off his stomach.
"After a while we all gets tuckered out agen; an' while we rests in the
trees me an' me pardner talks about the weather, lettin' on that there
ain't no bear anywheres nigh. So the time passed. As we didn't
recollect just how much grub we had at the start, or how much water
there was in the pool first off, we couldn't for the life of us reckon
just how long we'd been there. Neither me nor Old-pot-head's son would
care to take our oaths whether we'd been there a night an' half a day,
or half a dozen nights an' days; the night time an' the day time was so
mixed up together that we hadn't time to separate 'em. We were sure,
tho', that our grub was givin' out, the water was dryin' up, an' death
was gettin' good an' ready for us.
"We was in such a terrible tight place that I begins to think o' takin'
off me shirt an' flyin' it from the top o' the tallest pine as a signal
o' distress; for we was worse off than if we'd been shipwrecked. Talk
about bein' cast adrift on a raft! Why, it wasn't in it with bein'
fixed the way we was. We just stayed in one spot with no chance of
ever driftin' to'rds help. As long as the bear kept tab on us there
wasn't no sign of our ever gettin' a wink o' sleep. And more, besides
starvin' to death, we had to face bein' frozen; for our clothes was all
wore off, an' winter was comin' on mighty fast.
"At last, when me an' Old-pot-head's son had about given up hope, an'
was just pickin' out which would be the easiest death, what should we
see but somethin' bobbin' in an' out among the bushes. Say, it was
another bear! When it comes a little closer, we makes out it was a
little lady bear. No sooner does our old stern-chaser spy her than he
slides down to the groun', an' risin' up on his hind legs, throws out
his chest, an' cocks his eye at her, for all the world like a man when
he sees a pretty girl comin' his way. But when her dainty little
ladyship ketches sight of his bald-headed stomach, she just tosses up
her nose with disgust, an' wheels roun' an' makes for the tall timbers
with our affectionate friend limpin' the best he can after her.
"An' that's the last we sees o' the bear that tried to hold up the
Company's packet."
After the laughter had died down, Chief Factor Thompson yawned:
"Well, gentlemen, it's getting on. I must be turning in or my men will
be late in getting under way in the morning."
GOD AND THE WILD MEN
Drowsiness had indeed overtaken the camp. But now I must digress a
moment to tell you something that the public--at least the public that
has derived its knowledge of northern wilderness life from fiction--may
find it hard to believe. And this is what I want to say: that every
one in that whole brigade of wild men of the wilderness, from the
lowest dog-driver right up to the Chief Factor--when each had fixed his
bed in readiness for the night--knelt down, and with bowed head, said
his evening prayer to The Master of Life. Moreover, the fact that two
clergymen were present had nothing whatever to do with it, for the
"barbarians" of the forest would have done just the same had no priest
been there--just as I have seen them do scores and scores of times. In
fact, in some sections of the forest the native wilderness man--red,
white, or half-breed--who does not, is not the rule, but the exception.
Then, too--unless one's ears are closed to such sounds--one may
occasionally hear the voyageurs of the "North canoe" and the "York
boat" brigades, while straining on the tracking line, singing, among
other hymns:
Onward, Christian soldiers,
Marching as to war,
With the Cross of Jesus,
Going on before.
And, furthermore, I wonder if the fiction-reading public will believe
that the majority of the men in the fur brigades always partake of the
holy sacrament before departing upon their voyages? Nevertheless, it
is the truth--though of course truth does not agree with the orgies of
gun-play that spring from the weird imaginations of the stay-at-home
authors, who, in their wild fancy, people the wilderness with
characters from the putrescence of civilization. It is time these
authors were enlightened, for a man, native to the wilderness, is a
better man . . . more honest, more chivalrous, more generous, and--at
heart, though he talks less about it--more God-respecting . . . than
the man born in the city. That is something the public should never
forget; for if the public remembers that, then the authors of
wilderness stories will soon have to change their discordant tune.
Yes, it is true, every one of those wild men said his evening prayer
and then, with his blanket wrapped about him, lay down upon his thick,
springy mattress of fir-brush, with his feet toward the fire, and
slumbered as only a decent, hard-working man can. Out among the
dancing shadows that flitted among the snow-mantled bushes and heavily
laden trees a hundred and fifty eyes glared in the brooding
darkness--as though all the wolves in the forest were gathering there.
Later, when the sound of heavy breathing was heard round the fires, a
fierce, wolfish-looking dog, bolder than the rest, left its snowy bed
to hunt for more sheltered quarters. There was a whine, a snarl, then
the sound of clashing teeth. In a moment every dog leaped up with
bristling hair. Instantly bedlam reigned. Over seventy dogs waged the
wildest kind of war and the distant woods reechoed the horrible din. A
dozen blanketed mounds rose up, and many long lashes whistled through
the air. The seething mass broke away and flew howling and yelping
into outer darkness followed by a roar of curses--but only in civilized
tongues.
Presently all was still again. The men lay down, and the dogs, one by
one, came slinking back to their resting places. But in a couple of
hours one of the half-frozen brutes silently rose up, cautiously
stepped among the sleeping men, and lay couched close to a smouldering
fire. Another followed and then another until most of the dogs had
left their beds. Growing bolder, a couple of the beasts fought for a
warmer spot. In their tussle they sprawled over one of the men, but a
few lusty blows from a handy frying-pan restored calm. As the night
wore on some of the dogs, not contented with sleeping beside the men,
curled up on top of their unconscious masters. Then for hours nothing
but the heavy breathing and snoring in camp and the howling of distant
wolves was heard. Slumber had at last overtaken the wild men of the
wilderness--who always made it a rule to kneel down every night, and
ask God to bless their little children at home.
Now, though time still sped on, silence possessed the forest--until:
"Hurrah, _mes bons hommes_! _Levey, levey, levey_! Up, up up, up,
up!" ending in a shrill yell from the guide startled the drowsy crew.
It was three o'clock in the morning. Had it not been for the
brilliancy of the Northern Lights all would have been in darkness. An
obscure form bent over an ash-bed and fumbled something. A tiny blaze
appeared and rapidly grew until the surrounding forest was aflare.
Over the fires frying-pans sizzled, while tea-pails heaped with snow
began to steam. A hurried breakfast followed. The sleds were packed.
The dogs, still curled up in the snow, pretended to be asleep.
"Caesar! Tigre! Cabri! Whiskey! Tête Noire! Pilot! Michinass!
Coffee! Bull! Brandie! Caribou!" shouted the men. A few of the dogs
answered to their names and came to harness while some holding back
were tugged forward by the scruff of the neck. Others were still in
hiding. The men searched among the mounds and bushes. Every now and
then the crack of a whip and the yelp of a dog announced the finding of
a truant. Two trackers on large snowshoes had already gone ahead to
break the trail. It was easy to follow their tracks though the woods
were still in darkness and remained so for several hours. At dawn
Oo-koo-hoo and our little outfit parted company with the Dog Brigade.
Already the packet was many miles ahead. As I turned on my western
way, I thought of the work of these postmen of the wilderness, of the
hardships they endured, and the perils they braved; and the Chief
Factor's assertion that no packet had ever been lost beyond recovery,
recalled to mind other stories that were worth remembering: For
instance, a canoe express was descending the Mackenzie River; the canoe
was smashed in an ice jam, and the packeteers were drowned. A few
weeks later passing Indians caught sight of a stick bobbing in the
surface of the stream. Though the water was deep and the current was
running at the rate of three miles an hour, the stick remained in the
same place. So the Indians paddled over to investigate. They found
that to the floating stick was fastened a long thong, which on being
pulled up brought the missing packet to light.
Again, while making camp near the Athabasca River, the packeteers had
slung the packet in a tree, the usual place for it while in camp.
During the night their fire spread and burned up the whole equipment
except the tree, which, being green, received little more than a
scorching. The packet was unharmed.
On Great Slave Lake during a fierce snowstorm the packeteers became
separated from their dogs, and were frozen to death. But the packet
was recovered.
In one autumn two packeteers journeying from George's River Post to
Ungava Post drew up their canoe on a sandy beach, and camped beneath a
high, overhanging bank. During the night the bank gave way and buried
them as they slept. When the ice formed, the trader at Ungava sent out
two men to search for the missing packet. They found the canoe on the
beach; and from the appearance of the bank, conjectured what had
happened. Next spring the landslide was dug into, and the packeteers
were found both lying under the same blanket, their heads resting upon
the packet.
VI
WILD ANIMALS AND MEN
WOLVERINE AND HUNTER
One evening, while sitting before the fire in Oo-koo-hoo's lodge, we
heard sounds that told us that Amik had returned, and presently he
entered the tepee, full of wrath over the havoc a wolverine had wrought
along his trapping path. The pelts of more dead game had been ruined;
deadfalls had been broken; and even some of his steel traps had been
carried away. There and then Oo-koo-hoo decided that he would drop all
other work and hunt the marauder.
For its size--being about three feet in length and from twelve to
eighteen inches high--the wolverine is an amazingly powerful creature.
In appearance it somewhat resembles a small brown bear. Though it is
not a fast traveller its home range may cover anywhere from five to
fifty miles. It feeds upon all sorts of small game, and has been known
to kill even deer. It mates about the end of March, dens in any
convenient earthen hole or rocky crevice or cave that may afford
suitable shelter; and it makes its bed of dry leaves, grass, or moss.
The young, which number from three to five, are born in June. Whenever
necessary, the mother strives desperately to protect her young, and is
so formidable a fighter that even though the hunter may be armed with a
gun, he runs considerable risk of being injured by the brute. It has
been known to take possession of the carcass even of a caribou and to
stand off the hunter who had just shot it. Also, it has been known to
drive a wolf, and even a bear, away from their quarry. The
superstitious Indian not only believes that the wolverine is possessed
of the devil--for it is the most destructive animal in the northern
world--but he considers it also to be endowed with great intelligence.
The wily Indian, however, knowing the animal's habit of trying to
destroy what it cannot carry away, takes advantage of that very fact
and hunts it accordingly.
All that has been said in relation to trapping the fox applies also to
_le Carcajou_--_i.e._, the wolverine--save that the trap chain should
be doubled, and everything else made stronger and heavier in proportion
to the wolverine's greater size and strength. That evening Oo-koo-hoo
talked much of wolverines.
"My son, no other animal surpasses it in devilish cunning. For it is
not content to merely spring a trap, but it will carry it away--more
often for a short distance, but sometimes for miles--and hide or bury
it. Later on the wolverine may visit it again, carry it still farther
away and bury it once more. The wolverine has good teeth for cutting
wood, and will sometimes free a trap from its clog by gnawing the pole
in two. My son, I have even known a wolverine go to the trouble of
digging a hole in which to bury a trap of mine; but just in order to
fool me, the beast has filled up the hole again, carried the trap to
another place, and there finally buried it. But as a good hunter is
very observant, he is seldom fooled that way, for the wolverine, having
very short legs, has difficulty in keeping both the chain and the trap
from leaving tell-tale marks in the snow.
"Yes, my son, the wolverine is a very knowing brute, and if he thinks
he may be trailed, he will sometimes--without the slightest sign of
premeditation--jump sideways over a bush, a log, or a rock, in order to
begin, out of sight of any trailer, a new trail; or he may make a great
spring to gain a tree, and ascend it without even leaving the evidence
of freshly fallen bark. Then, too, he may climb from tree to tree, by
way of the interlocking branches, for a distance of a hundred paces or
more, all the while carrying the trap with him. Then, descending to
the ground, he may travel for a considerable distance before eventually
burying the trap. I have known him even leave a trap in a tree, but in
that case it was not done from design, for signs proved that the chain
had been caught upon a branch."
"How many wolverines," I asked, "do you suppose are causing all the
trouble on your and Amik's trapping paths?"
"Only one, my son, for even one wolverine can destroy traps and game
for twenty or thirty miles around; and the reason the brute is so
persistent in following a hunter's fur path is that it usually affords
the wolverine an abundance of food. Then, when the hunter finds the
brute is bent on steady mischief, it is time for him to turn from all
other work and hunt the thief. If at first steel traps fail, he may
build special deadfalls, often only as decoys round which to set,
unseen, more steel traps in wait for the marauder.
"If a hunter still fails, he may sit up all night in wait for the
robber, knowing that the more stormy the night, the better his chance
of shooting the brute. Sometimes, too, I have found a wolverine so
hard to catch that I have resorted to setting traps in the ashes of my
dead fires, or beneath the brush I have used for my bed, while camping
upon my trapping path." Then he added with a twinkle about his eye and
a shake of his finger: "But, my son, I have another way and I am going
to try it before the moon grows much older."
I asked him to explain, but he only laughed knowingly, so I turned the
subject by asking:
"Does an animal ever eat the bait after it is caught?"
"No, my son, no animal ever does that, not even if it be starving, but
it may eat snow to quench its thirst. Animals, however, do not often
starve to death when caught in traps, but if the weather be very
severe, they may freeze in a single night. If, however, the beast is
still alive when the hunter arrives, the prisoner will in most cases
feign death in the hope of getting free. That is true of most animals,
and, furthermore, it will feign death even when other animals approach;
but then, more often, its purpose is to secure the advantage of making
a sudden or surprise attack."
An Indian named Larzie, who was engaged to hunt meat for the priests at
Fort Resolution, once came upon a wolverine in one of his traps that
had done that very thing and won the battle, too. The snow, the trap,
and the carcass of a wolf, silently told Larzie every detail of the
fight. The wolverine, having been caught by the left hind leg, had
attempted by many means to escape, even trying to remove the nuts from
the steel trap with its teeth, as well as trying to break the steel
chain, and gnaw in two the wooden clog to which the trap was fastened.
But before accomplishing this, the wolverine had spied a pack of five
wolves approaching. In an effort to save its life the wolverine worked
itself down low in the snow and there lay, feigning death. The
cautious wolves, on sighting the wolverine, began circling about, each
time drawing a little nearer. Still suspicious, they sat down to watch
the wolverine for a while. Then they circled again, sat down once
more, and perhaps did a little howling, too. Then they circled again,
each time coming closer, until at last, feeling quite sure the
wolverine was dead, one of the wolves, in a careless way, ventured too
near. No doubt it was then that the wolverine, peeping through his
almost closed eyelids, had seen his chance--that the nearest wolf was
now not only within reach, but off guard, too--for the snow gave
evidence of a sudden spring. The wolverine had landed upon the back of
the wolf, clung on with his powerful forelegs, and not only ripped away
at the wolf's belly with the long, sharp claws of his free hind foot,
but with his terrible jaws had seized the wolf by the neck and chewed
away at the spinal cord. Then, no doubt, the other wolves, seeing
their comrade overpowered and done to death, had turned away and left
the scene of battle. Later, Larzie had arrived, and after killing the
wolverine and skinning both the conqueror and the conquered, had
lighted his pipe and leisurely read every detail of the story in that
morning's issue of the forest publication called _The Snow_.
Next morning, when I turned out before breakfast, I found that
Oo-koo-hoo had left camp before daylight; and half the afternoon passed
before he returned. That evening he explained that during the previous
night, the thought of the wolverine having haunted him and spoilt his
rest, he had decided on a certain plan, risen before dawn, and started
upon the trail. Now he was full of the subject, and without my asking,
described what he had done. Securing a number of fish hooks--trout
size--he had wired them together, enclosed them in the centre of a ball
of grease which he had placed inside an old canvas bag, and fastened
there with the aid of wires attached to the hooks. Then, carrying the
bag to where he found fairly fresh wolverine signs, he had dropped it
upon the trail as though it had accidentally fallen there. The
wolverine, he explained, would probably at first attempt to carry away
the bag, but on scenting the grease it would paw the bag about; then,
upon discovering the opening, it would thrust its head inside, seize
the ball of grease in its mouth, and start to pull it out. "If that
should happen," commented Oo-koo-hoo, "the wolverine would never leave
that spot alive; it would just lie there and wait for me to come and
knock it on the head."
But now at last--as later events proved--Oo-koo-hoo, the great hunter,
had encountered his match. Now it was no longer an unequal contest,
for now two could play at cunning--especially when both were masters at
the game. Three times The Owl visited his latest wolverine trap, only
to learn that twice the brute had inspected it and spurned it, for its
tracks proved that caution had kept the animal more than five feet
away. Later, as the winter wore on, the subject of wolverines was
rarely mentioned as it did not add to the cheerfulness of Oo-koo-hoo's
otherwise happy mood.
THE BEST FOOT-GEAR
About a week later, with a few days' outfit loaded upon our sled,
Oo-koo-hoo and I were heading first for the Moose Hills where we were
to hunt moose, and if successful, to cache the meat where Granny and
the boys could find it; then continuing farther north we were to call
upon The Owl's sister to deliver her a present from the children of
Oo-koo-hoo. In the meantime, Amik had gone upon one of his trapping
paths, and the boys were off to a swampy region to examine deadfalls
set for mink and fisher. The boys had taken the dogs with them.
It was a fine, cold, sunny morning when Oo-koo-hoo and I set out upon
our hunt, and with every breath we seemed to be drinking aerial
champagne that made us fairly tingle with the joy of living--for such
is the northern air in winter time. As we snowshoed along I felt
thankful for the excellent socks with which the old hunter had provided
me. On the last hunt my snowshoe thongs had blistered my feet, but
now, thanks to Oo-koo-hoo, I was shod with the most perfect footgear
for winter travel I have ever known--a natural sock that was both
blister- and cold-proof. I had never heard of it before, but The Owl
assured me that it had been long in fashion among the Indians. On each
foot I was now wearing next my bare skin a rabbit pelt--minus legs and
ears--put on, hair side out, while the skin was still green and damp,
and then allowed to dry and shape itself to the foot. Over the rabbit
pelts I wore my regular woollen socks, duffel neaps, and caribou-skin
mitten moccasins. The pelts had been removed from the rabbits by
simply cutting them between the hind legs, and then peeling them off
inside out. With the inside of the skin next the foot blisters never
form, nor does the hair wear off and ball up under the foot in such a
way that it may hurt the wearer. Though the rabbit pelt is very tender
and tears easily, it can be worn for five or six days of hard travel.
For warmth and comfort it is unexcelled.
Early that afternoon we came upon many lynx tracks, evidently there had
been a "pass of lynxes" as the hunters call it, for lynxes have a way
of gathering in bands of about four to eight and passing through the
forest. Oo-koo-hoo stated that they migrated in that way from one
region to another, covering many miles in search of game, especially
during the years when the rabbit plague causes a great shortage of
food; and had he known of their presence in time, he would have cut big
heaps of poplar, birch, and willow branches to attract the rabbits, and
thus furnish more food for the lynxes. Hoping, however, that he was
not too late, he set what few snares he had; nevertheless, he regretted
that the boys had gone off with the dogs, for, if they had not, he
would have tried to trail and tree the lynxes.
The boys had taken the dogs because they wanted them to haul their
sled. It was, however, against the advice of their grandfather, for he
had admonished them that only white men and half-breeds would use dogs
to haul a sled on a trapping path; that a good hunter would never do
such a foolish thing, and for many reasons: the traps--being usually
set close to the path--were apt to be either set off or destroyed by
the swinging sled; besides, the dogs' tracks would obliterate the
tracks of game; also the dogs might be caught in the traps;
furthermore, the smell of dogs always inspired fear in animals, again,
the noise of driving dogs frightened the game away. So, according to
Oo-koo-hoo, the wise hunter either packs his load upon his back, or, by
himself, hauls it upon his sled. But one must remember that The Owl
was an Ojibway and that those Indians as well as the Saulteaux Indians
prefer to haul their own sleds on the hunting trail and to keep their
dogs solely for trailing game; though all other Indians of the Strong
Woods use their dogs for hauling sleds. One advantage of the Ojibway
custom is that hunting dogs--when running loose--never have to be fed.
Amik, however, being a rather shiftless fellow, often spoilt his boys
as much as the average white father spoils his, for he never thrashed
them, though they frequently deserved it, and having given in to them
on many previous occasions, he had now let them take the dogs. But
speaking of parents' treatment of children, even an old she-bear could
give many a civilized father or mother pointers on how to bring up
children, for even among animals and birds one frequently finds a model
parent.
According to the verdict of the old fur-traders, the best trapper is
the uncivilized Indian. Though, apparently, he does not derive the
same amount of sport from his work as the white man does, he never
shirks his work and always takes great pains to prepare for and perfect
the setting of his traps. Though he is slow, he is, nevertheless, sure
and deadly in his work. Oo-koo-hoo assured me that the secret of
successful hunting was intelligence, caution, and patience.
During December and January, or according to the Indians, Yeyekoopewe
Pesim--"The Rime Moon," and Kakisapowatukinum--"The Moon When
Everything Is Brittle," there is always a lull in the trapping, for the
reason that then the days are shorter and the weather colder, and on
that account and also on account of the fact that the sun and winds of
March have not arrived to harden the deep soft snow, the forest
creatures prefer to remain more at home.
APPROACHING MOOSE
In approaching the Moose Hills we saw many moose tracks, but they were
old, the freshest having been made two days before. The age of these
the hunter was able to determine from the amount of newly fallen snow
in the track, as well as from other conditions; for he well remembered
how much snow had fallen each day for the last week or two, when and
which way the wind had blown, and when the sun was strong and the cold
severe. Now selecting a two-day-old trail as the best for us to
follow, he decided to camp for the night, and we spent the interval
between supper and bedtime discussing not only the hunting of moose,
but also their range and habits.
The extreme range of a moose covers from five to fifteen miles. More
often it is confined to a much smaller area that merely includes the
low-lying river and lake valleys that afford him the choicest of summer
food--the pineapple-like roots of waterlilies--and also affords him
protection from flies while he is wading and delving for those very
roots; and the higher lands among the hills, where he spends the winter
in the denser forest.
But it is in midsummer that we can study the moose with greatest ease,
for then he spends the sunrises and sunsets wading among the lily pads,
and if we are careful to observe the direction of the wind to guard
against being scented, and also careful to cease paddling or any other
motion before the big brute looks at us, we may, with the greatest ease
and safety, propel our canoe to within from a hundred yards to fifty or
forty feet of the great beast as he stands looking at us with raised
head and dilating nostrils trying to catch our scent. If he catches
it, he suddenly tosses his ponderous head, drops back slightly on his
hind legs as he swings round, and is off with a grunt. Nevertheless,
he--or she--will pause long enough to leave the sign that all deer
leave upon the ground when suddenly startled by--to them--the dreadful
smell of human beings. Or if it happens to be moonlight and the moose
is a bit mystified by the steady, but silent, scentless, and motionless
approach of our canoe, he may at first stand gazing at us, then grunt
at us, then back out of the water up on to the bank and there stand,
not fifty feet away, towering above us--for he may measure from six to
seven feet at the shoulder and weigh three quarters of a ton--shaking
his great antlers and grunting, or perhaps, more properly speaking,
_barking_ at us while he stamps his big fore hoofs until he shakes the
very river bank.
How children love to take part in such sport! How they thrill over
such an experience! Many a time I have taken them right up to even the
largest of bulls until the little tots could look into the very eyes of
the greatest of all living deer. What fine little hunters, too, they
made, never speaking, not even in a whisper; never moving--save only
their eyelids. In fact, I have been so close to wild moose that on one
occasion I could have spanked a huge bull with my paddle. He was
standing belly-deep in the river with his head under water, and so
close did my canoe glide past him that I had to turn it to prevent it
from running in between his hind legs. It was the sound of turning
aside the canoe that brought his head up, and when he beheld the cause,
he lunged forward and trotted away leaving a great wake of surging foam
behind him. His head, crowned with massive antlers, was a ponderous
affair. His body was as large as that of a Shire stallion and his back
just as flat, while his legs were very much longer. He was the largest
moose I have ever seen--and yet, by leaning slightly toward him, I
could have spanked him with my paddle! One such experience with a
great, wild animal, is more adventuresome, more thrilling and more
satisfactory, than the shooting of a hundred such creatures. It is
more than the sport of kings--it is the sport of men of common sense.
On another occasion, at Shahwandahgooze, in Quebec, in broad daylight,
I paddled a friend of mine right in between three bulls and a cow, and
there we rested with moose on three sides of us. They were standing in
a semicircle and no one of them was more than fifty paces away. They
were unusually fine specimens and had the bulls been triplets they
could not have been more alike even to the detail of their antlers.
The cow paid little attention to us and went on feeding while the
bulls, with heads held much higher than usual, stood as though in
perfect pose for some sculptor. There wasn't a breath of wind and the
wondrous spell must have lasted from eight to ten minutes; then a faint
zephyr came and carried our tell-tale scent to them and they wheeled
round and trotted away. Yet the head hunter from the city, who usually
stands off at long range and fires at the first sight of game, will
argue that killing is the greatest sport; when in truth it requires
greater courage and greater skill to approach, unarmed, so close to
game that one may touch it with a fish pole, and the reward is a much
greater and a more satisfactory thrill than the head hunter ever gets
from lying off at long range with a high-powered rifle and utterly
destroying life. Furthermore, think of how much better one can study
natural history by observing live animals in action, rather than
motionless ones in death! An artist, in his effort to render a perfect
portrait of a human being, never murders his sitter, as the so-called
"sportsman-naturalist" does. It seems to me that if sportsmen were
more active, more skilful, and more courageous, they would give up
slaughtering animals and birds for the sake of the unbounded pleasure
and adventure of observing wild game at closer quarters; but in truth,
long experience has taught me that the average hunter from the city is
something of a coward--never daring to walk alone in the forest without
his trusty, life-destroying machines.
But if those same hunters would only take a little more interest in
nature, pluck up a little more courage, and remember that the wild
animals of the northern forest are less vicious--when unmolested--than
are many of the tame animals of civilization, how much more sane they
would be. Remember, it is much safer to approach the great bulls of
the forest than it is to approach the smaller bulls of the farmers'
fields. Likewise, when tramping along the rural road one runs a much
greater chance of being bitten by the farmer's dog, than one does, when
travelling through the forest, of being bitten by a wolf. Then, too,
it is just the same of men, for the men of the cities are much more
quarrelsome, dishonest, and evil-minded than are those of the
wilderness, and that, no doubt, accounts for the endless slandering of
the wilderness dwellers by fiction writers who live in towns, for those
authors--never having lived in the wilderness--form their judgment of
life, either as they have experienced it in cities or as they imagine
it to be in the wilderness.
THE OUTLAW AND NEW YORKER
Now, in order to confirm my statement, I shall go to the very extreme
and quote what Al Jennings, the notorious outlaw, says upon this very
subject. The quotation is taken from Jennings' reminiscences of his
prison days, when he and the late lamented William Sydney Porter--the
afterward famous author O. Henry--formed such a strong friendship. In
the following dialogue Jennings is in New York City visiting
Porter--whom he calls "Bill"--and Porter is speaking:
"I have accepted an invitation for you, Colonel." He was in one of his
gently sparkling moods. "Get into your armor asinorum, for we fare
forth to make contest with tinsel and gauze. In other words, we mingle
with the proletariat. We go to see Margaret Anglin and Henry Miller in
that superb and realistic Western libel, 'The Great Divide.'"
After the play the great actress, Porter, and I, and one or two others
were to have supper at the Breslin Hotel. I think Porter took me there
that he might sit back and enjoy my unabashed criticisms to the young
lady's face.
"I feel greatly disappointed in you, Mr. Porter," Margaret Anglin said
to Bill as we took our places at the table.
"In what have I failed?"
"You promised to bring your Western friend--that terrible Mr.
Jennings--to criticize the play."
"Well, I have introduced him." He waved his hand down toward me.
Miss Anglin looked me over with the trace of a smile in her eye.
"Pardon me," she said, "but I can hardly associate you with the lovely
things they say of you. Did you like the play?"
I told her I didn't. It was unreal. No man of the West would shake
dice for a lady in distress. The situation was unheard of and could
only occur in the imagination of a fat-headed Easterner who had never
set his feet beyond the Hudson.
Miss Anglin laughed merrily. "New York is wild over it; New York
doesn't know any better."
Porter sat back, an expansive smile spreading a light in his gray eyes.
"I am inclined to agree with our friend," he offered. "The West is
unacquainted with Manhattan chivalry."
That is the truth in a sentence; and while O. Henry and Jennings have
spoken for the West, may I add my own experience of wilderness men and
say that the North, also, is unacquainted with Manhattan chivalry.
LAW AND ORDER ENFORCED
Furthermore, while upon this subject, I wish to add to my own protest
against the novelists' wild dreams of outlawry in the Canadian
wilderness, a quotation from E. Ward Smith's "Chronicles of the
Klondyke." Mr. Smith--as you no doubt remember--was the first city
clerk, treasurer, assessor, and tax collector of Dawson City; and this
is what he says:
"I want to say at the very outset that the Yukon was, in my opinion at
least, one of the most orderly corners of the earth. Even in the early
days of the boom, when miners and adventurers of all nationalities
poured in, the scales of justice were held firmly and rigidly. The
spell of the Mounted Police hung over the snow-bound land and checked
the evil-doer. It may sound ridiculous when I assert that the
Yukon--that gathering spot of so much of the scum of the earth--was
better policed than Winnipeg, or Toronto, or Halifax; but,
nevertheless, I believe it to be a fact.
"Of course, crimes were committed, some of which were never solved.
Doubtless, also many deeds of violence occurred whose authors never
came to light. But, on the whole, life and property were surprisingly
secure. One day I visited the cabin of my friend Lippy, who made a
million or so upon El Dorado. The door was partly open, so, on
receiving no response to my knock, I walked in. The cabin was empty.
On the table was a five-gallon pail heaped high with glittering nuggets
of gold! I glanced around the place. On the shelves and rafters, on
chairs and under bunks, were cans filled with gold. There was a snug
fortune in sight. Any one could have slipped in and stolen the lot. I
took Lippy to task about it when he came in. He did not seem at all
concerned, however.
"Pshaw," he said, "I always have quite a lot of gold about. But no one
would steal it. I've never lost anything."
But as the Yukon and New York are a long way from where Oo-koo-hoo was
hunting, let us return to his Moose Hills.
THE WAYS OF THE MOOSE
Moose mate in September and October, and during this period great
battles between bulls frequently occur before the victor walks off with
his hard-won spouse. The young--either one or two, but generally two
after the mother's first experience--are born in May, in some secluded
spot, and the calves soon begin to follow their mother about, and they
follow her, too, into their second year. Horns begin to grow on the
young bull before he is a year old, but they are mere knobs until he is
a year and a half old, when spikes form; by the third year he is
supplied with antlers. The perfect antlers of a big bull sometimes
measure seventy inches across, yet every winter--in January or
February--the horns are shed. During the mating season moose are
frequently hunted by the method known as "calling." The hunter, with
the aid of a birch-bark megaphone, imitates the long-drawn call of the
cow, to attract the bull. Then, when a bull answers with his guttural
grunt of Oo-ah, Oo-ah, the Indian imitates that sound, too, to give the
first bull the impression that a second is approaching, and thus
provokes the first to hurry forward within range of the hunter's gun.
But when the rutting season is over, the hunting is done by snaring or
stalking or trailing. The moose derives its winter food principally
from browsing upon hardwood twigs, and when the deep snows of midwinter
arrive, he is generally to be found in a "yard" where such growth is
most abundant.
A moose yard is usually composed of a series of gutters from one foot
to eighteen inches wide, intersecting one another at any distance from
ten to fifty feet or more apart, and each gutter being punctured about
every three feet with a post hole in which the moose steps as it walks.
The space between the tracks is generally nothing but deep, soft snow,
anywhere from three to five feet in depth.
Beside the moose tracks that Oo-koo-hoo and I had seen that day was
much silver birch and red willow, and from the signs of freshly cropped
twigs we knew that the moose were not unusually tall, and we knew, too,
from the fact that the tracks were sharply defined as well as from
their ordinary size and that they were not deeply impressed in the
snow, that the moose were those of about three years old.
THE OWL TRACKS MOOSE
That night, as Oo-koo-hoo was in a talkative mood, he told me much
about the hunting of moose, as we sat before our snow-encircled fire in
the still, silent, sombre woods.
"We hunters usually take moose by shooting or snaring them, and the
first thing to do is to find a track, and if it is old, follow it up
until new signs appear. And now, my son, as you may some day want to
hunt moose on your own account, I shall tell you how to trail them and
what to do when you find them. Listen to my words and remember: As
soon as you find a fresh track, look toward the sun to learn the time
of day; for if it is between eight and nine on a winter morning the
moose will be feeding, as it seldom lies down until between ten and
three. If feeding, the track will zig-zag about, and for a time head
mainly up wind, until its feeding is nearly done, then if the wind is
from the right, the moose will turn to the left and circle down wind
and finally come about close to its old trail where it will lie down to
rest. So when you find a zig-zagging track about which the brush has
been browsed, and when the wind comes from the right of the trail, you,
too, should circle to the left, but instead of circling down wind as
the moose has done, or is now doing, you circle up wind until you
either approach the danger point where the wind may carry your scent to
the moose, or otherwise, until you cut the moose's track. In either
case you should now retrace your steps for some distance and then begin
a new circle, and this time, a smaller one. If you now find a new
trail, but still no sign that the moose has turned up wind, or is about
to do so, you retrace your steps and begin a still smaller circle, then
when you strike the trail again, you can judge fairly well--without
even getting a sight of it--the exact position of your quarry. Then is
the time to take off your snowshoes and approach with greater care then
ever; but remember, always keep to leeward of the track and always look
up wind. Should you now come to an open space, watch carefully any
clumps of trees or bushes; if passing through heavy timber, watch for
an opening, and if there should be fallen timber there, scan it most
carefully where the dead trees lie, for there, too, your game may be
lying. Remember, my son, if you approach a moose directly he will
either see or scent you, and in circling, you must understand that only
the skill of the hunter in reading the signs can successfully determine
the size of the circle--sometimes it may cover a quarter of a mile.
"Then, too, my son, the seasons play a part in hunting. In winter, a
moose, of course, does not go to water, but eats snow to slake its
thirst. But whenever there is open water, a moose will go to drink
about sunrise; in the fly season, however, all rules are broken, as the
brute then goes to water night or day, to get rid of the pests, and it
will even remain submerged with nothing above the surface--save its
nose. In stormy weather look for moose among heavy timber, and in fair
weather search the open feeding places. But in bad weather, though the
hunter gains one advantage, the moose gains another; for while many
twigs and sticks are apt to be broken by the high wind and thus the
sound of the hunter's approach is less likely to be heard, the eddying
currents of air are then more apt to carry the hunter's scent to the
moose regardless of the fact that his approach may be faultless.
"Also, my son, you must be careful not to disturb the little tell-tale
creatures of the woods or success that seems so near may vanish in a
moment; for a raven may fly overhead, and spying you, circle
about--just as the pigeons used to do--and then crying out may warn the
moose of your presence. Or you may flush a partridge; or a squirrel,
taking fright, may rush up a tree and begin chattering about you; or a
rabbit may go drumming into a thicket, and the moose, reading these
signs of alarm, will surely look about to learn the cause.
"But, my son, should you spy a moose lying down, it is rather risky to
fire at it in that position, as it is then hard to hit a vital spot.
The better way is to stand with cocked gun covering the game, and then
break a twig--not too sharply though, or you may scare away your
quarry. Watch its ears: if they flop back and forward, it has heard
nothing, but if both ears point in your direction, keep still and be
ready, for it has heard you, and now with one great spring it may
disappear into a thicket. Instead of breaking a twig, some hunters
prefer to whistle like a startled rabbit while other hunters prefer to
speak to the moose in a gentle voice, always taking care to use none
but kindly words, such as for instance: 'Oh, my lazy brother, I see you
are sleeping long this morning.'
"For we Indians never speak harshly to so good an animal, nor do we
ever use bad words, as bad words always bring bad luck to the hunter.
"In winter, my son, a moose makes much noise in walking and feeding,
for then he often breaks off the tops of little trees--though some of
the trunks may be as thick as a man's arm. The moose breaks down trees
of such a size by placing his big shoulder against it, and curving his
powerful neck round it, and then bending it over with his massive head.
Then, too, he often rides down small trees, such as birch or poplars,
just by straddling his fore legs about them and using his chest to
force them over.
"In shooting a moose, remember the best spot is just behind the
shoulder, and while the next best is in the kidneys, the head is not a
good shot for a smooth-bore gun, for bone often deflects a round ball.
A good hunter always tries to get a clear view of his quarry, for even
a twig may deflect his bullet. And remember, too, my son, that as a
rule, when coming upon a fresh track, it is wiser to back-track it than
to follow it up at once, as back-tracking will provide the hunter with
about all the information he may require, as the back trail will tell
him if the game was travelling fast or slow, whether it was fleeing in
fright or feeding; and if feeding, whether it was feeding quietly or in
haste; and if in haste, the twigs would be torn off instead of being
clean cut. Sometimes a good hunter will back-track a trail several
miles in order to assure the success of his hunt.
"My son, if a moose is badly frightened by man-smell it may at first go
off on the gallop and then settle down to a steady trot for four or
five miles before it stops to listen--but not to feed. Then, turning
its head this way and that, and even trembling with excitement, as it
throws its snout into the air, to test if danger is still following, it
may then start off again on another long trot, but all the time it
will, as much as possible, avoid open places. Later it may attempt to
feed by tearing off twigs as it hurries along, and then at last it will
circle to leeward and finally rest not far from its old trail. Under
such conditions, the distance a moose travels depends largely upon the
depth of the snow. Two or three feet of snow will not hamper it much,
but when the depth is four feet, or when the moose's belly begins to
drag in the snow, the brute will not travel far. An old bull will not
run as far as a young one, and a cow will not travel as far as a bull;
but when tired out a moose sleeps soundly, so soundly, indeed, that a
hunter can easily approach as close as he pleases. But don't forget,
my son, that a good hunter never runs a moose--at least, not unless he
is starving--as running a moose spoils the meat.
"Sometimes, my son, a hunter may use a dog to trail a moose, but it is
dangerous work for the dog, as the moose may turn at bay and strike at
the dog with any one of its chisel-like hoofs or may even seize the dog
by the back in its mouth, carry it for a little way, then throw it into
the air and when it falls trample it to death. So, my son, when
hunting moose in that way, it is best to have two dogs or more, as then
one dog may attack while another is being pursued. But I warn you, if
you are in pursuit of a moose and if he turns at bay for the first time
. . . look out . . . for then he will surely attack you; if, however,
he turns at bay through sheer exhaustion or from over-whelming pain, he
will not always fight; but under the first condition, the hunter is a
fool if he approaches within ten paces of a bayed moose."
"THE OWL" MAKES A KILL
Rising early next morning we made a very small fire to cook our
breakfast and were ready to start as soon as dawn came to light us on
our way. Oo-koo-hoo took great care in loading his gun as he expected
to come upon moose at any time. He placed a patch of cotton about the
ball before ramming it in, and made sure that the powder showed in the
nipple before putting on the percussion cap. And as he took his
fire-steel and whetted a keener edge upon his knife, a smile of
hunter's contentment overspread his face, because he well knew how soon
he was to use the blade. That morning he did not light his pipe as
usual because, as he explained, he wanted to have his wits about him;
furthermore, he did not wish to add to the strength of his man-smell;
and whispering to me he added with a smile:
"My son, when I smell some men, especially some white men, I never
blame the animals of the Strong Woods for taking fright and running
away."
And that reminds me that while we white people consider the negro the
standard-bearer of the most offensive of all human body smells, the
Indian always unhesitatingly awards the palm to the white man, and
sometimes even the Indian children and babies, when they get an
unadulterated whiff from a white man, will take such fright that it is
hard for their mothers to console them--a fact that has often made me
wonder what the poor little tots would do if they scented one of those
highly painted and perfumed "ladies" that parade up and down
Piccadilly, Fifth Avenue, or Yonge Street?
After following the trail for about fifteen minutes, we came to where
the moose had been lying down, and the hunter whispered:
"My son, I am glad I did not smoke, but I am sorry that we camped so
near." Then he added as he pointed to the impression of a moose's body
in the snow: "A moose seldom lies twice in the same place in the snow,
as the old bed would be frozen and hard as well as dirty."
But as we had not made much noise, nor cut any big wood to make a fire,
he was hopeful that our chances were still good; and at sunrise he
concluded that it was time we should leave our sled behind and begin to
track our quarry more cautiously. From then on there was to be no
talking--not even in a whisper. Soon we came upon yesterday's tracks,
then farther on we saw where the moose had circled before lying down
again for the night, with their eyes guarding their front while their
scent guarded their rear.
At last we came upon still fresher signs that told that the moose might
be within a hundred paces or less. At a signal from the old hunter I
imitated him by slipping off my snowshoes, and standing them upon end
in the snow, and Oo-koo-hoo leading the way, began to circle to our
right as a gentle wind was coming on our left. Now our progress was
indeed slow, and also perfectly noiseless. It seemed to take an age to
make a semicircle of a couple of hundred paces. Again we came upon the
tracks of the moose. The signs were now fresher than ever. Retracing
our own tracks for a little way we started on another circle, but this
time, a smaller one, for we were now very near the moose. Silent ages
passed, then we heard the swishing of a pulled branch as it flew back
into place; a few steps nearer we progressed; then we heard the
munching sound of a large animal's jaws. Oo-koo-hoo rose slightly from
his stooped position, peered through the branches of a dense spruce
thicket, crouched again, turned aside for perhaps twenty paces . . .
looked up again . . . raised his gun and saying in a gentle voice: "My
brother, I need . . ." he fired.
Instantly there was a great commotion beyond the thicket, one sound
running off among the trees, while the other, the greater sound, first
made a brittle crash, then a ponderous thud as of a large object
falling among the dead under-branches.
The hunter now straightened up and with his teeth pulled the plug from
his powder horn, poured a charge into his gun, spat a bullet from his
mouth into the barrel, struck the butt violently upon the palm of his
left hand, then slipping a cap upon the nipple, moved cautiously
forward as he whispered: "Its neck must be broken." Soon we saw what
had happened. One moose was lying dead, the ball had struck it in the
neck; it was a three-year-old cow--the one Oo-koo-hoo had
selected--while the other, a bull, had left nothing but its tracks.
Presently The Owl re-loaded his gun with greater care, then we returned
for our snowshoes and to recover our toboggan before we started to skin
the carcass. On the way Oo-koo-hoo talked of moose hunting, and I
questioned him as to why he had turned aside for the last time, just
before he fired, and he answered:
"My son, I did it so that in case I should miss, the report of my gun
would come from the right direction to drive the moose toward home and
also toward our sled; and in case, too, that I hit the moose and only
wounded it, the brute would run toward our sled and not take us farther
away from it. Also, my son, if I had merely wounded the beast, but had
seen from the way it flinched that it had been struck in a vital spot,
I would not have followed immediately, but would have sat down and had
a smoke, so as not to further disturb the wounded animal before it had
time to bleed to death. Besides, a mere glance at the trail would tell
me whether or not I had mortally wounded the moose--whether the brute
was hit high or low, and whether the blood was dark or light. If hit
high, the blood would be upon the branches as well as upon the snow; if
the blood was black it would mean that an artery had been severed and
that the moose was mortally wounded. If the latter had happened, then
would be the time for me to get out my pipe and have a smoke."
SKINNING ANIMALS
As we were to be busy for the rest of the day, we made a suitable camp
and started a fire and by that time the moose had stiffened enough for
proper handling while removing the skin. As usual the hunter's first
act was to cut the eyes, then to cut off the head, which he at once
skinned and, removing the tongue, hung the head beside the fire to cook
while we went on with our work.
But while we propped up the moose and got it into good position, three
whiskey jacks (Canada Jays) came, as they always seem to come at the
first sign of smoke, to pay us a visit and partake of the feast. They
are fluffy, heavily feathered little birds of gray, with wings and tail
of darker hue, and with a white spot on their forehead. They are not
unlike the blue jay in their calls and shrieks, though they have some
notes of their own that are of a quieter, softer tone. They are
friendly little beggars that will at times come so near that they may
occasionally be caught in one's hand; but while one likes to have them
about for the sake of their companionship, they will, uninvited, take a
share of anything that is good to eat. They are the most familiar
birds to be seen in the winter forest, and they have a remarkable way
of laying their eggs and nesting in the month of March when the weather
may register from twenty to forty below zero.
In the forest there are several different ways of skinning animals: one
is called "case skinning" and another is called "split skinning." To
case skin an animal such as ermine, fox, fisher, lynx, marten, mink,
otter, muskrat, rabbit, or skunk, the skin is cut down the inner side
of each hind leg until the two cuts meet just under the tail, and then
the pelt is peeled off by turning it inside out. To split skin an
animal such as wood-buffalo, moose, wapiti, caribou, deer, bear,
beaver, wolf, or wolverine, the skin is cut down the belly from throat
to tail and also on the inside of each leg to the centre cut, and then
the pelt is peeled off both ways toward the back. All split skins are
stretched on rectangular frames--all save beaver skins which are
stretched on oval frames. All case skins are stretched over
wedge-shaped boards of various sizes--all save muskrat skins which are
more often stretched over a hooped frame or a looped stick. So, of
course, our moose pelt was "split skinned," but there is still another
way to skin an animal that is too large for one man to turn over, and
that is--in case the animal is lying on its belly--to split the skin
down the back and then peel it off both ways toward the belly.
If the skin is to be used as a robe, the hair is left on, and the
animal's brains are rubbed into the inner side of the pelt, after the
fat has been removed, and then the skin is left to dry. That softens
the pelt; but traders prefer skins to be sun-dried or cold-dried. If
the skin is to be used as leather, the hair is cut off with a knife,
and a deer's shin-bone is used as a dressing tool in scraping off the
fat; both sides of the skin are dressed to remove the outer surface.
It is easier to dress a skin in winter than in summer, but summer-made
leather wears better, for the reason that the roots of the hair run all
through a summer skin; whereas in winter the roots show only on the
outer side; that is why a fur-trader--when looking only at the inner
side--can tell whether a skin has been taken in winter or summer. In
dressing leather the inner side is rubbed well with brains which are
then allowed to soak in for three or four days; then the skin is soaked
in a vessel filled with water--but not in a river--for about two days
more; then it is stretched again and let dry, then scraped with a bone,
shell, or steel scraper--if it is a moose skin, only on one side, but
if it is a caribou skin, on both sides. The object of scraping is to
further soften the skin. After that, it is taken off the stretcher and
rubbed together between the hands and pulled between two people. Then
it is stretched again and smoked over a slow fire that does not blaze.
Woodsmen hunt moose for food and clothing. Townsmen hunt moose for the
satisfaction of killing. But should the townsman fail in his hunt, he
may hire a native "Head Hunter" to secure a head for him; and that
reminds me of one night during the early winter, when a strange
apparition was seen crossing the lake. It appeared to have wings, but
it did not fly, and though it possessed a tail, it did not run, but
contented itself with moving steadily forward on its long, up-turned
feet. Over an arm it carried what might have been a trident, and what
with its waving tail and great outspreading wings that rose above its
horned-like head, it suggested that nothing less than Old Beelzebub
himself had come from his flaming region beyond to cool himself on the
snow-covered lake. But in reality it was just Oo-koo-hoo returning
with a fine pair of moose horns upon his back, and which he counted on
turning over to the trader for some city sportsman who would readily
palm it off as a trophy that had fallen to his unerring aim, and which
he had brought down, too, with but a single shot . . . of $25.
While at work I recalled how Oo-koo-hoo had surmised, before he had
examined the carcass, that he had broken the moose's neck with his
ball, and on questioning him as to how he knew, he replied:
"My son, if an animal is hit in the neck and the neck is broken, the
beast will collapse right where it is; but if hit in the heart, it will
lunge forward; if hit in the nose, it will rear up; if hit in the
spine, it will leap into the air. Yes, my son, I have seen a great
bull buffalo leap lynx-like, into the air, when it was struck in the
spine."
Knowing that the hunter had wanted to procure more than one moose I
asked him why he had not at once pursued the other? And he explained:
"For two reasons, my son: first, because I don't want a bull, I want
the tenderer meat and the softer skin of a cow; and secondly, even if I
had wanted him, I would not have pursued him at once as that would
cause him to run. If a moose is pursued on the run, it overheats, and
that spoils the meat, because the moose is naturally a rather inactive
animal that lives on a small range and travels very little; but it is
quite different with the caribou, for the caribou is naturally an
active animal, a great traveller, that wanders far for its food, and to
pursue it on the run only improves the flavour and the texture of its
meat."
OLD-TIME HUNTING
After supper, as we sat in the comfortable glow of the fire, we talked
much of old-time hunting, for in certain parts of the Great Northern
Forest many of the ancient methods are practised to-day. Fire is often
made by friction; many hunters still use the bow and arrow, while
others use the flintlock gun; frequently, too, they rely upon their
spears; bone knives and awls as well as stone axes are still applied to
work; fish nets are yet woven from the inner bark of cedar; and still
to-day wooden baskets and birch-bark rogans are used for the purpose of
heating water and boiling food. Notwithstanding our far over-rated
civilization the natives in some sections are dressed to-day in
clothing entirely derived from the forest.