JOURNEY TO THE ZULU COUNTRY--HUNGER THE BEST SAUCE--A POPULAR SONG--AN
UNEXPECTED GUEST--PANDA'S REGIMENTS--HIS PET VULTURES--AN INGENIOUS
SCARECROW--ANOTHER REIT-BUCK--THE TELESCOPE--A LESSON IN SPOORING--A
TRIAL OF NERVES--INTRUDING LEOPARDS--A KAFFIR FEAST AND CONCERT--BAKED,
BLINDED, AND POISONED--PESHAUNA, A KAFFIR BELLE--KAFFIR LOVE-TALE--AN
ABDUCTION AND A RESCUE--NONE BUT THE BRAVE DESERVE THE FAIR.
Having received intelligence of a very good game country, between the
Imvoti and Tugela rivers, which was seldom visited, either by the
traders who went into the Zulu country or by any hunters, I determined
to make an expedition into this part, which was about seventy miles from
Port Natal. To accomplish my trip with comfort, I provided myself with
a pack-ox that was able to carry about a hundredweight; this animal I
loaded with some spiced beef, as a stand-by in case of getting no game,
some brandy, biscuits, salt, powder, tobacco, and a few beads; the
latter as presents for the Kaffirs. I started my ox, with two of my
Kaffirs and one of my horses, to get a day's journey in advance,
reserving my second horse to ride after the cavalcade. I made all
inquiries as to the style of place, but found it a rare occurrence for
two people's stories to agree. Some said there was no game at all
there, excepting a few bucks; one or two Kaffirs had heard that elands
and buffaloes were often found in the country near the Imvoti river;
others said there was not a single head of anything to be found.
Putting all these accounts down at their proper value, I determined to
inspect the place and judge for myself; for I generally found that the
ignorant or indolent reported that there was nothing in a country in
which a sportsman would find plenty. I started across the Umganie at
peep of day, and made a journey of nearly forty miles, when I came up
with my Kaffirs. They had been joined by my old friend Matuan, who told
me that he was going in the same direction to buy cattle, he having
obtained some money by the sale of Indian corn, which he grew in great
quantities. I had a small tent amongst the packs on my ox, just big
enough to crawl into; it was about seven feet long and three high, and
made a comfortable little kennel. I noticed a Dutchman's house about a
mile off; but as I had everything I wanted, and the night was fine and
moonlight, I preferred camping under the trees where I then was. We
lighted a fire and sat round it. A tin mug full of brandy-and-water
being served out to my black companions, they became very talkative.
Inyovu, who was armed with one of my guns, had managed to shoot a red
bush-buck on the journey, and we were busy lodging the venison in our
hungry maws. The appetite one gets at this out-of-door work is
perfectly wonderful; being in the open air all day and all night, I
suppose, causes a man to become very much, in habit, like some of the
four-footed _carnivora_. In the eating way there is no doubt about it;
the meat disappears in heaps; enough to feed an Irish family, here only
serves as a meal for one. Scarcely is it finished, when an infallible
appetite is again crying out for a supply. I had, unfortunately,
forgotten my plates and dishes; I was also without a fork; neither,
however, were missed by the Kaffirs; so I was forced to imitate their
proceedings. A long strip being cut off the buck, it was laid on the
red-hot embers, and was turned occasionally until cooked; a wisp of
grass was then put in requisition to hold one end of the meat, while the
hot ashes were shaken and knocked off, with a graceful swing of the left
hand the other end was caught in the mouth, and held hard until a
mouthful was separated with the knife; the remainder was kept hot until
one was ready for a second mouthful. This was certainly not a very
elegant way of dining, but still it was most delightfully simple.
The Kaffirs seemed to like the flavour that the wood gave to the meat.
Not having a taste that way myself, I made use of an iron ramrod to keep
the meat from the ashes; I strung the slices on the ramrod, one end of
which I stuck into the ground, and allowed it to bend over the fire at
an angle of forty-five degrees, cutting off the bits of meat as they
were done. After each of us had eaten as much as would have choked
three beings in civilised society, the Kaffirs commenced a song. It was
a very popular one in this part, commencing, "_Eno baba gofile_," with a
splendid chorus of "_E, yu, yu, yu; E, yu, yu, yu_." It was surprising
that no accident happened to any of them, as they shouted at the top of
their voices for nearly an hour with a fierce and determined action.
Even after my wolf-like repast, the noise was too much for me, and I was
about begging them to drop the curtain on their performance, when they
suddenly stopped. I looked up and saw the white eyes of a strange
Kaffir a few yards from the fire. I saw that my party expected me to
speak, so gave the usual salutation, "_Saca bona_" which was responded
to by him. I then asked him to come and sit down and tell us the news,
and offered him my snuff-gourd. He soon told me that he was the head
man of a neighbouring kraal, that he had heard my Kaffirs singing; and,
in fact, he thought a good thing was going on, and he might as well have
a slice of it. We handed him the bones of the buck to pick, which were
all that were left; he cleaned them most completely, scarcely leaving a
mouthful for my two dogs, which had been anxious observers of our
operations. My Kaffirs were asking all sorts of questions from the new
comer. I found great satisfaction from understanding the language, and
before I retired for the night had made out the following as having been
the early career of our guest:--
His name was Eondema, and he was one of Panda's officers. Panda being
the great Zulu chief across the Tugela, he mentioned Panda's name with
great awe, as if it were not quite safe even here to speak of it aloud.
Eondema was a very fast runner, and had therefore been in Panda's light
infantry regiment called the _Impofarns_ (Elands).
"Panda," said he, "is a great chief, has many thousands of cattle, and
thousands of warriors. His hosts are like the grass, or a flight of
locusts; you might cut them down, or tread on them, but thousands would
still come on, and victory must be theirs." He had many regiments,
which he called by the names of animals, or by their qualities. These
were--the _Injlovus_, or Elephants, all men of great height and
strength. They were armed with a very heavy spear for stabbing, and
their shields were made of oxhides, and were stained black. "_Ma mee_!"
They were strong I exclaimed Eondema. Then there were the _Ingulubi_,
or Wild-pigs; the _Inyarti_, or Buffaloes; the _Imvubu_, or Hippopotami;
the _Impofarn_, etc. All these regiments were armed with spears and
shields. They imitated the actions and noises of the animals from which
they took their names, and were obliged in their battles to bring back
their own or their enemy's shield and assagy. When they attacked, they
rushed on at a charge in line. One or two assagies, used for throwing,
were lighter than those used for stabbing, and were thrown at the enemy
when within about forty yards.
The regiment was divided into divisions, the right division throwing
their spears to their left half-face, and the left division to their
right half-face. This arrangement was intended to dazzle the enemy, and
make the shower of spears more difficult to avoid. Eondema belonged to
the _Impofarn_ regiment, and, being ambitious, he was always either
shooting elephants (being fortunate enough to possess an old musket) or
bartering cattle. Eondema's herds attracted the attention of the chief,
and a jealous eye was cast upon them; but they could not well be taken
from him without his having committed some crime. Nothing was, however,
easier than to find a stick with which to beat him. As it is with
others, so it was with Panda. Eondema, there was little doubt, had, by
his witchcraft, caused an old cow of his chief's to die. Fortunately
for him, a friend intimated (at great personal risk) that a party had
received orders to assagy him during the following night. A hasty
retreat across the Tugela (the English boundary) saved him, at the loss,
however, of cattle and wives. Being a sharp fellow, he soon again made
money, _alias_ cattle, and was at this time head man of the kraal near
which I stopped on this night.
There does not seem to be any very great regard for human life amongst
the Kaffir chiefs, should they find their authority, supremacy, or
selfishness in question.
A story that has been told me--for the truth of which I beg I may not be
held responsible--may give an idea of the light manner in which life is
regarded, particularly in the old and infirm. Although this story may,
or may not, be a fact, still an anecdote on a country's peculiarities,
even if it is embellished, generally gives an idea of the people's
habits.
Panda keeps, it is said, some pet vultures, and if his supply of beef is
short, and he does not like killing an ox, he pats his darling birds on
the head, asking them if they are not very hungry. Then calling one of
his soldiers, he directs him to go and knock old Father So-and-So on the
head, and drag him into the bush for his vultures, as they are very
hungry. A fit meal for a vulture--a tough old Kaffir!
I went to sleep after Eondema's story, but could occasionally hear the
voices of the party. They seemed to find eating the only thing
necessary; they did not drink or sleep. On the following day I was
amused at seeing an ingenious plan that the Kaffirs used to frighten the
birds from their corn-gardens. These were sometimes of great extent,
ten and twenty acres being in cultivation together. Several
descriptions of birds, in large flocks, invaded them, and would have
done great damage in carrying off the corn, but for the precautions
taken. In the centre, or most elevated spot of the garden, a kind of
platform was erected, on which were two or three boys and girls. From
this stage three ropes (manufactured by the Kaffirs) were tied to the
extreme ends of the garden, and sufficiently low to be amongst the thick
stalks and stems of the Indian corn. These long lines were connected to
each other on an enlarged plan of a spider's web. When a flock of birds
was seen to settle in any part of the field, two or three of the
youngsters caught hold of the line that led over the spot, and shook it
violently, shouting at the same time: the noise made by the rope
frightened them away on the wing at once.
A white stranger was a very rare visitor in this part. As I had turned
off the high road to the Zulu country, I could hear the great fact of an
"_Umlungo_" arriving, shouted from hill to hill, and kraal to kraal; the
Kaffirs generally all turned out to see me, passing remarks on myself,
gun, and horses, in the coolest manner. When they found that I could
speak to them in their own tongue, and was on a shooting trip, they had
a much higher opinion of me than if I had been a trader. On the next
night I took up my quarters at the kraal of a sporting Kaffir, who was
called Inkau; he had a gun and was a mighty Nimrod, having shot
elephants, buffaloes, hippopotami, and nearly all the large game. He
was supplied with powder by a Dutchman at Natal, for the purpose of
shooting elephants, half the ivory falling to the said Dutchman's share.
He informed me that buffaloes and elands were not farther off than we
could walk while it took the sun to go from "there to there,"--pointing
to two clouds in the sky. I was now pleased that I had not paid any
attention to the croakers who had assured me there was no game whatever
about here. Elephants were not far off either, and bucks so plentiful
that they would often destroy the mealeas (as the Indian corn is here
called), if it were not regularly watched. Inkau very graphically
described the manner in which a buffalo was to be shot:--"You must get
close to him, and shoot _so_," said he, standing steady as a rock and
aiming with his gun. "If you do like this, you won't kill him;" at the
same time giving effect to his explanations by shaking himself, and
holding his gun as if in a great fright. Inkau's description was
correct.
As it was still nearly an hour to sundown, I went with two or three
Kaffirs to a neighbouring ravine, in which a reit-buck was generally
found. Inkau, like nearly every Kaffir whom I have seen, could only
shoot well at a stationary object; this reit-buck, therefore, by keeping
a sharp look-out, had managed to escape so many times from Inkau's
erring bullet, that at last he gave up firing at him as a waste of
powder. On our nearing the long reeds, the buck sprang out, and
cantered quietly up the hill; the Kaffirs shouted to me to fire, but I
waited until his outline stood out in bold relief against the sky, when
I lodged an ounce of lead in his shoulder, which had the effect on him
of an irresistible invitation to that night's supper; his steaks were
most excellent eating, and I thenceforth stood high in Inkau's
estimation.
A reit-buck, as he falls, weighs something over a hundred pounds, and in
Inkau's kraal, at the feast, there were about thirty people, men, women,
and children. Yet such were the performances in gastronomy, that there
was after dinner scarcely a sufficient quantity of the reit-buck
remaining to supply me with a breakfast on the following morning. There
was such a scarcity of corn in this kraal, that I had difficulty in
getting even a mouthful for my horses; they suffered consequently in
condition, and the one I rode on the first day, was too weak for me to
get anything like a gallop out of him. I started quite early in the
morning with Inkau, to a spot which he told me elands frequented. We
reached a commanding position, where I pulled out my telescope for an
inspection. My companion had never seen such an implement before, and
could not comprehend what I was doing; so that when at last I rested it
on the saddle, and got him to look through it, his delight and
astonishment knew no bounds. Good sight is much valued by the Kaffirs,
and the possession of a telescope would raise a man to as high a
position of envy there as that of a Koh-i-noor its fortunate owner in
England. No game appeared in sight, so Inkau proposed that we should
make for some high table-land a few miles distant. I led my horse and
walked beside Inkau, who rarely saw a clump of bushes or a distant peak,
but what he had to tell me that he shot something _there_ so many moons
ago, indicating by his fingers the number.
He was a determined sportsman, and seemed to love hunting for the sake
of sport alone. He did not care what work he went through, and was
certainly a most gentlemanly Kaffir, as he never asked for a present, or
any reward for all his trouble, and seemed unexpectedly pleased when I
presented him, on leaving, with the value of a blanket, some powder, and
a box of lucifer-matches. On passing near a deep woody ravine, he told
me that he would go down in it and beat the bush for a buffalo, and that
I might wait up at the top, where I should probably get a shot, as any
game that might be in the ravine would come out on that side, and make
for the dense bush by the river. I did as he requested, and heard him
coolly beating the bushes in the hollow beneath. Presently something
came rushing towards me; I was all ready for a buffalo, but saw only a
bush-pig, which I allowed to pass unhurt, fearing that the report of my
gun would alarm the country, and that my Kaffir would not consider this
pig a sufficient excuse. Soon after, Inkau came out of the bush, and
said, "No buffalo there to-day," and walked quietly on. When he crossed
the spoor of the bush-pig, he suddenly stopped, and looking down, said,
"A buffalo has passed here this morning!" I was amused at what I
thought was his mistake, and allowed him to make one or two more remarks
about it; I then told him that it was a bush-pig. "No! a buffalo," he
positively asserted. The grass was long but green, and no sand could be
seen, or any ground that could take an impression. I said that a
bush-pig had passed there just now. "I know it," he answered; "look
here,"--pointing to where the grass was trodden down, and was still
springing slowly up again,--"that is wild pig, but that"--pointing to
some other marks that were on the same track--"is buffalo. Besides, a
wild pig does not eat the tops of grass." As he gave this last
conclusive argument, he picked a handful of grass, and showed me the
tops eaten off. I saw that I had fallen several degrees in his
estimation by such great want of observation. The matter being settled
beyond a doubt, he followed instantly on the trail, which led down to
the river. Inkau moved at a run, so _I_ mounted to keep up with him.
We soon came to a part of the bush too thick for a horse to go through;
I therefore dismounted, off-saddled, and turned my nag out to graze, and
then entered the bush. As we neared the game, which we knew we were
doing by the freshness of the spoor, Inkau slackened his pace; he was
steady as a rock, and was evidently well supplied with nerves. He asked
me whether I felt at all afraid, as he would go on alone if I did. I
answered him by holding out my gun at arm's length, when he, seeing it
quite steady, complimented me, but cautioned me by saying that the
buffaloes here were very dangerous. I did not think this was such sharp
work as the elephant-hunting about Natal, in the thick bush, as although
the buffalo is very savage and cunning, a small tree will save you from
him, whereas an elephant must be fenced off with rather a big one. The
usual careful approach being made, the danger in this sport is not very
great. Accidents happen to men who move carelessly, either thinking
that they are not near game, or anxious to show that they are not
afraid. An incautious person is sure, sooner or later, to meet with a
mishap, if he goes much after dangerous animals. A true sportsman need
not trouble himself about what people think. Some may take a delight in
being able to say that they have walked in a bush, and tired at
elephants and buffaloes, without any of the precautions that I have
named as necessary; I should recommend them not to do so often. We shot
this buffalo, but I will give details in another part. I was afraid
that some of the _carnivora_ might feast on him, so we determined to
return to my horse, and make the best of our way back to the kraal. A
large party instantly set off with assagies to bring in the meat, while
I had some dinner and a glass of brandy-and-water. I then strolled out
to a neighbouring kloof, and poked about the bushes in search of game.
Hearing some guinea-fowl calling, I drew my bullets, and put buckshot
into both barrels. This is a plan I rarely practised, as it is better
always to retain a bullet in one barrel; in the present case the neglect
of this might have led to a serious affair. Having crept down to where
I thought I heard the guinea-fowl, I saw a couple of creatures moving in
the long grass. I could not see what they were; but thinking that they
must be bucks, I crept down towards them until well within shot; I then
stood up, and ran forward. When within a few yards of the objects, I
was brought to a stand-still, by seeing a leopard jump up: he gave a
snarl at me, and then bounded off, followed by a second one. They went
away just like two cats, leaping lightly over everything in their
course. My finger was on the trigger to fire, but remembering the
Dutchman Hendrick's advice, I thought it wiser to let them alone. I saw
them go over a rocky hill some distance off, and was quite willing to
let them thus retreat.
I returned up the ravine, and killed two guinea-fowl at one shot, as
they were running furiously along a path. I thought my old buffalo
might not be so tender as a guinea-fowl, in which supposition I was
correct. A Kaffir girl plucked one of the birds for me, and I thought
it particularly good, although it had not the addition of bread sauce or
gravy. As it was getting dark the Kaffirs returned, almost weighed down
by the immense weight of meat. Never had there been such luxurious
times in their land; meat without reserve; snuff in plenty; and a round
of brandy-and-water for the principal men. One or two large earthen
vessels were placed on the fire, and huge pieces of the buffalo were put
into them to stew. During the cooking, all the men assembled in the
largest hut, which was circular, and like all the others. It was about
twenty feet in diameter, about seven feet high, and in shape like a
beehive. A large place in the centre was hollowed out for the fire; no
chimney was considered necessary, a little hole that was in the thatch
being more for look than use; the smoke from the fire was thick and
blinding. The Kaffirs sat, like so many dogs, watching the meat
stewing, at the same time trying little tit-bits of about half a pound
or so, just as wetters to their appetites. They soon began a song,
which was an extempore laudation of me: there was a great repetition of
the same words, but very good time was kept, and a great deal of
exercise gone through. The arms were held something in the attitude
that a prizefighter would assume, and the body violently jerked up and
down. Every now and then one of the party would give a signal, when
they all would stop, and a man, with a very high tenor voice, shout a
few words; at the termination of these a chorus would join in amidst
yells and shrill whistles. Throughout, however, they kept a sort of
regularity, and, although barbarous in the extreme, it was music of its
kind. They did not seem to understand why I preferred to remain outside
in the cold, and repeatedly asked me to come inside the hut; so not to
appear exclusive, I took off my coat and waistcoat, and joined the
festive scene, by which I appeared to give great satisfaction. In a
quarter of an hour, however, I had had quite enough of it; I was baked
nearly to a cinder, blinded with the smoke, and poisoned with the smell.
A Kaffir, after his bath, is not the most sweetly perfumed animal in
the world; but when five-and-twenty hot men assemble in one hut, and sit
round a fire, it becomes too much to get over even with the aid of
powerful snuff. I therefore pitched my tent outside, and, concealing
myself between its folds, was soon asleep. The moon was still high when
I awoke, and, not feeling inclined to sleep again, I took my gun, and
wandered out in the cool night-air. Not a sound indicated the presence
of human beings; the country all round could be as plainly seen as
during the daylight, the night was so clear and bright. Several
mysterious sounds occasionally could be heard both far and near; the
hyaena's laugh was frequently audible, and twice I most distinctly heard
the deep growl of a lion, sounding as though he were on a range of hills
some three or four miles off: there was no mistaking his voice when once
heard. I stopped out for nearly an hour, enjoying the beauty of the
moonlight, and the wildness of the noises that alone disturbed the
night: not a breath of wind was stirring. I could see indistinctly dark
forms moving about on the opposite hills, an occasional shriek from
which indicated some prowling jackals or hyaenas on the look-out for
prey. I soon began to feel very cold, and returned to creep again under
the folds of my tent.
The following day was spent in an unsuccessful trip after elephants that
Inkau had heard were near the Imvoti; we saw nothing of them, and
returned home tired and hungry.
Amongst the members of this kraal was a very nice-looking Kaffir woman.
The women can be handsome, although perhaps admiration for them is an
_acquired taste_. Well, Peshauna (the girl's name) was the best-looking
of Inkau's wives, and was placed as head woman of Inkau's kraal; she did
but little work, and was highly dressed, in the extreme of the fashion,
not in crinoline or embroidery, but in beads and brass. Bound her head
she had a broad band of light-bine and white beads; a pendent string of
the latter hanging in a graceful curve over her eyelids, giving them the
sleepy, indolent look assumed by so many of our fair sex. Bound her
neck in numbers, strings of beads were negligently hung, and a little
apron of fringe about a foot long was fastened round her waist; this was
neatly ornamented with beads of red, white, and blue; her wrists were
also decorated with bracelets made of beads and brass, while her ankles
were encircled with a fringe made from monkey's hair. This was the
full-dress costume of Peshauna. To these adornments the most affable
and agreeable manners were added, quite divested of that _hauteur_ and
assumption so often practised by acknowledged belles; she had a most
graceful way of taking her snuff; and stuck through her ears were two
very long mimosa-thorns for the purpose of combing her woolly locks. I
think all must agree in placing her on record as a most charming and
divine nymph! She was, alas, another's! Twenty cows had been paid for
her, and five men assagied, before she became the property of my gallant
friend Inkau. It took at least a pint of gin before I could work him up
to tell his story, which he did in words something like the following;
his action and expression, however, had so much to do with the beauty of
the story, that it loses fearfully in retailing:--
"I had long heard people talk of Peshauna being a beauty, but did not
think much about it until I went buffalo-shooting near her father's
kraal. I stopped there one night and saw her. _Ma mee_! she was
_muthle kakulu_!" (the superlative of beautiful). "I talked to her a
great deal, and I thought that she would soon like me. I went out next
day, and shot a young buffalo. I managed to get help enough to bring it
to the kraal, and I gave it all to Peshauna. Her father had asked many
cows for her, but somehow no one had yet offered enough. When I heard
this, I felt very frightened lest some one should carry her off before I
could manage to buy her. My two wives I had always thought would have
been enough for me, and I had given so many cows for them, that I really
had not twenty left. I considered how I could manage, and hoped that
fourteen cows paid, and seven more in ten moons, would be as good as
twenty now. But Ama Sheman, her father, would not have this, and told
me that a young chief named Boy would give the twenty cows at once. I
was very angry at this, and asked Ama Sheman to wait a little, which he
agreed to do for four months, as he said he would sooner see her my
_umfazi_ [wife] than Boy's. I went home, and was always after
elephants. I got very rash, and was nearly killed by them once or
twice, for my gun was not big enough. At last I killed a large
bull-elephant, and got eight cows as my share. I started off at once to
tell Ama Sheman that my cows were ready. He did not seem pleased to see
me, but told me he should like to see my cows. He was an old _chingana_
[rogue], and wanted to see which had the finest lot of cattle, Boy or I,
as Boy had now offered twenty cows as well as myself. Mine were the
finest, so it was agreed that I was to take Peshauna as my _umfazi_.
When this was settled, I went out to try and shoot a buffalo for our
marriage-feast. I did kill a large one before the sun was up high, and
I returned with it to the kraal. As I came near, I heard the women and
children screaming. I ran up, and found that Boy had watched all the
men out of the kraal, had then walked quietly in with three of his
people, and caught my dear Peshauna, and, before she had suspected
anything, carried her off. Ama Sheman went out to try and stop them,
but he was knocked on the head with a knob-kerry, and lay as if dead.
They got off well from the kraal, and were out of sight when I returned,
for they did not think I should be back so soon. I shouted for the men,
who soon came in. We got our assagies, and I had my gun. Ama Sheman
came all alive again, and eight of us started in chase. We went fast,
and soon sighted the four rascals. As we came near them, they seemed
surprised, and did not know what to do. They soon let Peshauna loose,
and ran for their lives. We gained on them, and I threw away my gun,
that I might run quicker. They had a river to cross, which was deep;
they were wrong to try and get across; they ought to have fought on this
side. Before they had gone over half the water, we had assagied two of
them. They soon sank, and were eaten up by the alligators. The other
two got over. We all jumped into the water, and swam after them. One
of our young men, a very fast runner, went past me, and neared Boy; as
he did, he shouted to him not to run like a dog, but to stop and fight.
Boy took no notice until the man was close to him, when he suddenly
stopped, turned round, and threw an assagy, which went through our fast
runner, and killed him. It was Boy's last achievement, for I was on him
like a leopard, and my assagy going into his heart was pleasant music to
me. The other Kaffir was killed by Ama Sheman. We hid their bodies, as
we did not wish a war with their kraal. We all kept the story quiet,
and they did not for some time discover what had become of Boy and his
party. The hyaenas and vultures soon picked their bones."
I complimented Inkau on his bravery, and told him that I thought his
wife Peshauna was well worth the price he had paid, and the danger he
had incurred, for her possession; and when she came again into the
kraal, I looked upon her wild beauty with additional interest.