BELL’S CATHEDRAL SERIES
SAINT DAVID’S
[Illustration: _Photo. F. Frith & Co._
ST. DAVID’S CATHEDRAL, FROM THE N.E.]
THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF
SAINT DAVID’S
A SHORT HISTORY AND
DESCRIPTION OF THE FABRIC
AND EPISCOPAL BUILDINGS
BY
PHILIP A. ROBSON, A.R.I.B.A.
WITH FIFTY [Illustration] ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON GEORGE BELL & SONS 1901
Dedication.
TO THE
MEMORY OF
THE VERY REVEREND
JAMES ALLEN, M.A.,
DEAN OF ST. DAVID’S,
OF
TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE,
THIS SHORT HISTORY
IS DEDICATED
IN THE HOPE THAT ST. DAVID’S
MAY EVER FIND SUCCESSORS TO BENEFIT BY
THE EXAMPLE OF THIS HER MOST SELF-SACRIFICING
AND CAREFUL OF CUSTODIANS.
AUTHOR’S PREFACE
This treatise is little more than a careful digest of numerous works, of
the more important of which a list is given. A sincere note of
obligation is due to Messrs. Jones and Freeman’s scholarly and accurate
_History of St. David’s_ and to Mr. John Murray’s _Handbook to the Welsh
Cathedrals_; but the list is given quite as much to assist future
students as to emphasise those writers to whom the author has been under
special obligations.
Those who may wish to visit St. David’s will find it remarkably
inaccessible, and they will be well advised to travel to Haverfordwest
by train, sleep there, and drive on, over the sixteen miles and
seventeen hills, to St. David’s on the next day. For cyclists there is a
much better road from Letterston station, but the other is preferable
from the picturesque point of view.
The illustrations are mostly from the author’s own photographs, but his
special thanks are due to Mr. A. David and Mr. Morgan, to whose hearty
co-operation on the spot a large meed of whatever success they may
attain is unhesitatingly given. The general views are from photographs
by Valentine, Frith and Co., and Poulton; the general measured drawings
are reduced from the elaborate plans of J. Taylor Scott, F.R.I.B.A.,
which won the silver medal of the Royal Institute of British Architects
in 1882; a few illustrations are taken from old prints in the author’s
collection, and for some reproductions we have been indebted to the
excellent plates in Messrs. Jones and Freeman’s _History of St.
David’s_.
PHILIP A. ROBSON.
PALACE CHAMBERS,
9, BRIDGE STREET, WESTMINSTER.
LIST OF PRINCIPAL WORKS CONSULTED
OWEN’S DESCRIPTION OF PEMBROKESHIRE. London, 2 vols., 1603 [reprinted
1892 and 1897], 8vo, pp. xxviii and 286, and pp. iv and from 287-578,
paper covers. Edited with notes and appendix by Henry Owen (Cymmrodorion
Record Series, No. 1).
CAMBRIA TRIUMPHANS. London (A. Crooke), 1661, folio, pp. 256; a
preliminary in sixes and three folding plates of arms; Russia extra; two
vols. in one; numerous woodcuts. _Note._--Very rare. Briant’s, £30 9s.;
Heathcote’s, £29 18s. 6d.
A SURVEY OF THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. DAVID’S AND THE EDIFICES
BELONGING TO IT, AS THEY STOOD IN THE YEAR 1715. London, 1717, sm. 410,
pp. xii, 202, vii, panelled calf. By Browne Willis. Illustrated “with
draughts,” consisting of two treble-folding plates opposite p. 1, “The
Iconography” (_i.e._, plan) and “South Prospect,” and opposite p. 91 a
double-folding plate containing fifty-two shields. Very rare. Towneley
copy sold for £1 11s. 6d. Considering its date, a most excellent book.
HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF THE PARISH OF ST. DAVID. London (E. Harding),
1801, 4to, pp. viii and 206, boards. By George W. Manby. Nine whole-page
aquatints. _Note._--Rare, but amusing rather than veracious when not
copying Browne Willis.
THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF ST. DAVID’S. London and Tenby, 1856, 4to,
pp. xii, 400, cloth. By W. B. Jones, M.A., and E. A. Freeman, M.A.
Illustrated. _Note._--The best work on the subject.
CAMBRIAN JOURNAL. Vol. iii., London, 1856, 8vo; contains an elaborate
review of J. and F.’s History, with illustrations.
ST. DAVID’S. THE CATHEDRAL OF SS. ANDREW AND DAVID. Tenby, n.d., but
reprinted from the _Cambrian Journal_, 1864, 8vo, pp. 18, paper covers.
By M. E. C. Walcott.
HANDBOOK TO THE CATHEDRALS OF WALES. 1st ed., 1873, pp. xx and 334, 2nd
ed., 1887, post 8vo, pp. 334, cloth [by R. J. King], illustrated.
_Note._--2nd edition was revised by the late Dean Allen.
ST. DAVID’S; ITS EARLY HISTORY AND PRESENT STATE. London and Derby,
1868, sm. 8vo, pp. 42, limp cloth. By an Ecclesiologist (Fox). Three
illustrations.
H.M. COMMISSIONERS’ REPORT ON CATHEDRAL CHURCHES. London (Eyre and
Spottiswoode), 1883, folio (pp. 24 on _St. David’s_), irregularly
paged.
ST. DAVID’S (Diocesan Histories). London (S.P.C.K.), Brighton, and New
York, 1888, post 8vo, pp. x, 254, fancy cloth. By W. L. Bevan, M.A. With
map. _Note._--Best history of the Diocese.
THE BUILDER. Vol. lxiii., No. 2,600 (Cathedral Series). An article,
three full-page plates (including a good plan) and sketches. Folio.
London, December 3, 1892.
A GUIDE TO THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. DAVID’S, THE BISHOP’S PALACE, AND THE
COAST CHAPELS. London (Jones and Evans), Tenby (Mason), 1896, crn. 8vo,
pp. 90, paper covers. By Travers J. Briant.
PEMBROKESHIRE ANTIQUITIES. Solva (H. H. Williams), 1897, 8vo, pp. vi.
and 84, paper boards (consisting of reprints from the _Pembroke County
Guardian_ by various authors). St. David’s is mentioned on pp. 8, 34,
37, 53, 68, and 77.
THE ARCHITECTURAL REVIEW. Vol. v., Nos. 27, 8, 9, folio. London, 1899;
many photographic illustrations by P. A. Robson.
CATHEDRAL ORGANISTS. London (Novello), 1899, 8vo, pp. xii and 142,
cloth. By John K. West (St. David’s, pp. 76 and 77).
LIST OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
List of Works consulted xi
I. THE SITE AND GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FABRIC 2
Previous Churches--Bishop de Leiâ--Fall of the Tower 4
Bishop Gower--The Perpendicular Period 5
The Civil War--West Front rebuilt--Scott’s Restoration 6
II. THE EXTERIOR 9
The Cathedral Precincts 9
The Church 11
The Tower 12
The South Side 14
The South Porch 14
The South Transept 16
The East End 16
The Ruined Chapels 19
The North Side 19
The Library or Chapter House 19
The North Transept 20
The North Doorway 20
The West Front 21
III. THE INTERIOR--THE NAVE 23
The Font 28
The Rood Screen 30
The Organ 32
THE CHOIR AND TRANSEPTS 36
The Parclose Screen 44
The Stalls 44
The Chapel of St. Thomas 46
The Chapter House or Library 47
The Throne 48
The Sedilia 48
THE SHRINE OF ST. DAVID 50
THE SHRINE OF ST. CARADOC 54
The Aisles of the Presbytery 55
THE CHAPELS EAST OF THE PRESBYTERY 57
Bishop Vaughan’s or Trinity Chapel 60
The South Chapel Aisle 65
The Ante Chapel 65
The Lady Chapel 66
The North Chapel Aisle 68
MONUMENTS IN THE CHURCH (otherwise than in the
Eastern Chapels) 71
Bishop Gower’s Tomb 71
IV. THE PRECINCTS 83
THE CLOISTERS AND ST. MARY’S COLLEGE 83
THE BISHOP’S PALACE 85
The Parapet 88
The East Chapel 89
The Bishop’s Hall and Study 89
The Great Hall 89
The West Chapel 92
APPENDIX I.--BISHOPS of St. David’s 93
Precentors and Deans 94
Organists 95
APPENDIX II.--Extracts from Sir G. G. Scott’s Report, 1869 97
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
St. David’s Cathedral from the N.E. _Frontispiece_
Arms of the See _Title-page_
The West Front before the restoration of 1862 2
The Cross and Cathedral Tower 3
St. David’s from Speed’s Map 5
South-west View before the restoration of 1862 7
South View about 1700 9
Plan of St. David’s, 1806, by John Carter 10
Top of the Tower 11
Ceiling of Central Tower 13
South Elevation (drawn by J. Taylor Scott) 15
South Doorway 17
The Nave, looking East 22
Elevation of a Bay of the Nave, looking East (drawn by J. T. Scott) 24
Norman Shaft with Re-carved Capital 25
Details of Pier Arches (from Jones and Freeman) 26
Carved Panels and Arch-ornaments in the Triforium (from Jones and
Freeman) 26
Groining of Rood Screen showing the flying ribs 31
The Rood Screen and Organ 33
The Presbytery in 1856 (from Jones and Freeman) 36
The Choir and Presbytery, 1895 37
The Parclose Screen 43
Arch between the S. Transept and Choir Aisle 45
Double Piscina, St. Thomas’s Chapel 46
The Sedilia 49
The Shrine of St. David (Base) 51
The Shrine of St. Caradoc (Base) 55
Screen of Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel 57
Roof of Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel 59
Recess in Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel 61
Bosses on the Cornice 62
Window in Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel 62
Niche 63
Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel 64
View from Ante Chapel to Lady Chapel 66
Sedilia and Tomb in Lady Chapel 67
The North Chapel Aisle 68
Tomb of a Priest, N. Chapel 70
Tomb of Bishop Morgan 72
Bishop Gower’s Tomb 73
Tomb of a Knight 77
Abraham Stone 79
North Doorway of Nave 80
The College of St. Mary (after H. Gastineau) 82
The Bishop’s Palace, 1779 (after Paul Sandby, R.A.) 86
Section of Chimney in Kitchen 89
Bishops’ Palace 90
Bishops’ Palace; View of Courtyard (from Jones and Freeman) 91
Gable-Cross lying in Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel 96
Plan of the Cathedral _At end_
[Illustration: THE WEST FRONT BEFORE THE RESTORATION OF 1862.
(_The figures in the foreground are those of Sir G. G. Scott, Dean
Allen, Prof. E. A. Freeman, the Bishop and Mrs. Jones._)]
[Illustration: THE CROSS AND CATHEDRAL TOWER.]
ST. DAVID’S CATHEDRAL
CHAPTER I
THE SITE AND GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FABRIC
The see of Minevia, or St. David’s, was founded in the sixth century. It
has always included the whole of Pembrokeshire, and is by far the most
important of the four Welsh sees--St. David’s, St. Asaph, Bangor, and
Llandaff. The impressively wild and open scenery which surrounds St.
David’s gives it also a natural advantage irrespective of its greater
size. But the site of the cathedral cannot be regarded as satisfactory,
being close to the little river Alan, on almost marshy ground. Its
drainage has consequently always been a source of trouble and expense.
In questioning the founder’s choice of site it must always be clearly
remembered that the buildings were originally monastic, and that
seclusion, combined with a good natural water supply, were regarded by
the old monastic builders as primary essentials. Once selected by St.
David, however, this site has always been regarded with veneration by
those who in later times added to the original foundation.
The existing church is not less than the fourth on this site. The
monastic church was destroyed by fire in 645 and the second in 1088, and
the third was that visited by Henry II. in 1171 and 1172 (_vide_
Giraldus). The first view of the church generally seen is that from the
south-east and from almost on a level with the top of the central tower.
The _tout ensemble_ is certainly remarkable, and few thoughtful visitors
fail to find a pigeon-hole in their memory for this first impression,
which is invariably conjured up by the name “St. David’s.”
Calixtus II. (Pope 1119-1134) canonised St. David in 1131,[1] and the
church was solemnly dedicated to him in conjunction with St. Andrew, to
whom the previous church had been dedicated. Of this primitive British
church, which St. David himself founded long before the coming of St.
Augustine, nothing is now visible. For in 1180 Peter de Leiâ, the third
Norman bishop (1176-1198), replanned the whole building. Indeed, in
consideration of the works being in progress (1189), the Cardinal Legate
excused the bishop, Giraldus, and certain others from joining in the
Crusade, provided that they contributed towards the expenses of those
going and towards the completion of St. David’s Cathedral. It is to this
Bishop de Leiâ that St. David’s, even as we see it now, mainly owes its
grandeur.
But soon after the completion of the new church the central tower fell,
seriously damaging all the adjacent parts, which were rebuilt, including
one stage of the tower, by 1248. The foundations, however, on the wet
site caused further trouble, and it was not till 1866 that they were
properly laid and the tower secured by the late Sir (then Mr.) G. G.
Scott. In 1248 an earthquake shook the building in a serious manner, and
probably started or aggravated the curious outward inclination of the
nave arcade, which can be seen in the illustration, p. 22. The fall of
the tower also necessitated alterations in the buildings which had just
been erected to the east of the crossing, and no doubt the earthquake
also prevented any attempt to complete the stone groining of the nave,
for about the year 1500 huge buttresses were added on the north or river
side to prevent further settlements. Bishop Martyn (1296-1328)
completed De Leiâ’s plan by adding the Lady Chapel; but his immediate
successor, Bishop Gower (1328-1347), has, more surely than any
prelate--not excepting De Leiâ--left his impress on the present
buildings. Under his direction a stage was added to the tower; the south
porch was built; the walls of the aisles were raised to their present
height and preparations made for vaulting; the eastern chapel to the
south transept and alterations to those east of the north transept were
carried out; the aisles received Decorated windows and their walls
buttresses; and the very remarkable Rood-screen and its adjuncts were
then first added. Of his splendid episcopal palace across the Alan more
anon.
[Illustration: FROM SPEED’S MAP OF PEMBROKE.]
In the Perpendicular period the principal alterations were the renewal
of the main roofs; the addition of the huge buttresses on the north side
of the nave; the vaulting of the chapel just east of the Presbytery, and
the addition of one more stage to the tower. It should be noted that
this was the only period in which the difficulties of vaulting were
overcome, although extensive preparations for a sexpartite system had
been made.
Nothing of note was done to the fabric for a long period after this,
till Bishop Field whitewashed the cathedral internally in 1630! Then we
find that during the Civil War much damage was done, traces of which can
be easily found in the ruined chapels east of the Presbytery. The
transepts and Lady Chapel were stripped of their lead, and consequently
fell into a state of ruin. The roofs of the former were reconstructed in
1696, but the vaulting to the latter did not fall till nearly eighty
years later. Sundry precautions were taken to prevent the main fabric
from falling into absolute ruin--_e.g._, the southern arch of the tower
was filled up; but St. David’s had fallen on evil days, and it is not
till nearly 1800 that we read of a subscription for rebuilding the West
Front from plans by Nash which are said to have been approved by the
Society of Antiquaries. The frontispiece to this chapter shows this
front as it was before Scott’s great restoration of 1862. The additions
from 1800 to 1862, as given by Messrs. Jones and Freeman, make extensive
reading, but do not count for very much in the building. The Chapel of
St. Thomas, east of the North Transept, was converted into a Chapter
House 1827. During the forties the South Transept was re-arranged as a
parish church and the seventeenth-century vestry was treated as a kind
of eastern aisle. Butterfield added some Decorated windows--notably the
great North Transept window--and the north aisle of the Presbytery again
received a roof.
In 1862 Scott was requisitioned by Bishop Thirlwall to examine the
fabric and make a report on its proposed complete restoration, and in
1869 he was able, in his second report, to announce the satisfactory
repair of the tower. This work was one of extreme difficulty, as will be
seen from the Appendix (see p. 97). The church was then for the first
time properly drained; and the next parts to be taken in hand by Scott
were the Choir, Presbytery and their aisles, and after that De Leiâ’s
original Transitional work, at a cost of about £40,000. This amount
included Willis’s organ, and the reconstruction of the West Front in
memory of Bishop Thirlwall (of which latter the Very Rev. James Allen,
[Illustration: SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF THE CATHEDRAL BEFORE THE RESTORATION
OF 1862.]
afterwards Dean, was the inaugurator). Dean Allen contributed in a most
generous way towards the restoration, as, _inter alia_, the expenses of
the renovation of the North Transept, St. Thomas’s Chapel, Library, and
Treasury, and the roofs of Bishop Vaughan’s Chapel and the ante-chapels
he defrayed entirely. The Rev. J. M. Treherne and his wife each gave
£2,000 by legacy, and the latter gave an annual subscription of £200
during her life.
It is most welcome news that the present Dean and Chapter have already
started a fund for the final section of the restoration, viz., that of
the ruinous eastern chapels, wherein is exquisite work being surely
destroyed. And it is hardly too much to expect that the Welsh will not
fail to respond to this dual opportunity for at once reverencing their
Patron Saint and removing what is to-day indeed a national reproach.
[Illustration: SOUTH VIEW ABOUT 1700, FROM AN OLD PRINT.]