CHAPTER VII

HOW THE ROYALS HELD THE BLUFF: AN EPISODE OF TRENCH WARFARE

I

_Waiting_

The beginning of March found me with a battalion of The Royals in a

rather battered Belgian town. Its centre received a good deal of

attention from enemy artillery, but it offered two attractions which

brought in officers from divisions all around. After all, to men

accustomed to living in the trenches, the atmosphere was one of almost

Sabbath peace. The hall where 'The Fancies' made much of the humours of

trench life to uproariously delighted audiences was crowded out night

after night. You could not find anywhere greater zest and enjoyment. The

striking comradeship of soldiering, the common experience of audience

and actors, and the abandonment of all thought for the morrow, gave that

impression of cheerful carelessness the root of which is not happiness

but the conviction that the future is so uncertain and the possibilities

so dreadful that he is wise who lives for the hour only, even as the

hour may snatch life from him. I thought I knew the head in front of me,

and, leaning forward, saw it was my brother-in-law. It has always struck

me as quaint that he, who had been with his battery for a year and a

half, and I, who had been out for nine months, should have met again

under such circumstances. I had pictured a stricken field and much

coolness exhibited in an admittedly dramatic moment--something in line

with Stanley's 'Dr. Livingstone, I presume.' It was comforting to find

it otherwise, but, as Smee says in _Peter Pan_, it was 'galling too.'

First when looking into a shop window, and now in a concert hall, in all

these months of war! We said, 'Not a bad show, is it?' 'Not half bad.'

But there have been some strange meetings in this war. A private in our

battalion discovered his son, a boy of seventeen, in a new draft which

had just come up to the line. He had run away from home and been lost to

sight. The father set matters on a proper footing by thrashing his son

there and then in the front trench!

War was not very far off after all. Two days later we were having lunch

in the comfortable warm restaurant which is this tedious town's other

attraction. We drank our coffee to the accompaniment of the nasty sound

of arriving shells. Every time a shell screamed towards us the stout

lady behind the counter dropped on hands and knees, emerging flushed and

trembling after each had burst. We were rather amused; but when we went

out and round the corner of the street, the body of a man was being

swiftly carried away wrapped in a brown blanket. Forty soldiers, it was

said, had been killed and wounded. Distracted women stood in little

groups in the passages of the houses, and there was much blood in the

gutters.

Only a country invaded by the enemy drinks to its dregs the cup of war,

but the narrow belt a few miles behind the friendly army's trenches

enjoys great prosperity. The love of home or the love of money keeps the

population in many places where it would be better away. One beautiful

spring day I took shelter behind a farmhouse in the Hallebast-Vierstraat

area until some shelling on the path ahead had died down. The farmer's

wife came out and we got into conversation. A rise in the ground gave

some shelter from the German lines, but she told me that any movement on

horseback was immediately sniped with whizbangs. The day before all her

cows had been killed by shell-fire in the paddock behind the farmhouse,

but if she and her elderly husband let their land go out of cultivation,

how were they to live, and if they left, where could they go? When

high-explosives blew great holes in their sown land they just filled in

the holes and ploughed and sowed the place over again. The settled

sadness of her face and voice haunts me still. Others, however, stay in

danger because they are making so much money. Several shopkeepers in

this town admitted they had never known such prosperity. The estaminets

make enormous profits from the sale of very weak beer. A friend of mine,

having drawn battalion pay in notes of too large amounts, was told to

return to the paymaster and draw it in smaller sums. He found the office

closed, and turned into a little village shop to see if they could

change a part of it. To his amazement they changed the whole of it from

the till. The total amount was ten thousand francs. But how many

Belgians have lost their all?

Our billets were clean and very airy. For some reason, though all

furniture had been removed, the presses, which were all open, were full

of beautiful bed and table linen. It was very tempting, but fortunately

we resisted the temptation. The morning after we arrived, about seven

o'clock, a disturbance arose below. Angry women's voices were heard in

altercation with the servants, there were hurried footsteps on the

stair, and a moment later our door was thrust violently open. Two

strapping Belgian women strode in and demanded answers to many

questions. We adopted our friend the Major's plan, and feigned to know

even less French than we did. We were anxious to be very inoffensive as

we lay on the floor and watched these determined individuals throwing

open the presses and wardrobes. Inside the linen lay untouched, folded

neatly; we felt thankful we had left it so. They stamped out again, and

we heard the Colonel's voice raised in protest next door. The doctor and

I looked at one another. He seemed rather pale, and I noticed for the

first time that his head rested on an enormous soft pillow covered with

a spotless linen pillow-slip edged with beautiful lace.

But next morning we had a different awakening. Dawn was rising wanly

from the east to another day on the Salient. The broken windows were

rattling and the floor trembling under the dull continuous thudding of a

concentrated bombardment. We lay and listened, and for the thousandth

time hated war. We knew that men, some of whom we knew and loved, were

going over the parapet, many never to return.

That night, as dusk fell, the old steeple with its rent side looked down

on cobbled streets thronging with ordered ranks of men standing ready to

move. Here and there a few officers spoke together, or a man gave his

chum a light from his fag, or straps were tightened. A rifle butt rang

on the pavement, and the adjutant's horse moved his feet restlessly.

These men had no illusions as to what they would probably have to face;

but none guessed that there lay ahead the most dreadful test of physical

endurance which the old battalion, since the great retreat, had ever

known.

II

_The Bluff_

What had happened was this. Soon after our division had been moved back

to the rest area, part of the line which it had been holding was

strongly attacked and lost to the enemy. Several counter-attacks failed,

and finally our own Division was brought back from rest to recapture

the lost trenches. One brigade attacked with great dash and success. The

lost trenches were re-occupied, and our own brigade, which had been

lying in support, was ordered to take over and hold them against the

expected counter-attacks. The Bluff, which was the main feature of the

position and the worst part of which The Royals, as the senior

battalion, were given to hold, was a low hill jutting out at the

re-entrant to the Salient, south-east of Ypres. It was a strong tactical

position commanding the approaches to our trenches, as the enemy well

knew. Seen from our front line farther south it had the dead, bleak

appearance of all ground that is much shelled. Pitted by high explosive,

burned yellow by fumes of gas and shells, and stripped of every living

thing, with blackened stumps of trees sparsely scattered on its summit,

this muddy hillock dominated the flat lands, and, on the sunny morning

when I first saw it, seemed indescribably sinister and menacing. It said

to me, 'I am war, the antagonist of everything clean and comely, of

everything fresh and young: misery of mind and body, torment of kindly

earth and all its little growing things, lover of all that is foul and

dead.'

III

_'We've keepit up the reputation o' the auld mob, onyway'_

That night the weather suddenly changed. There had been a hint of spring

in the air, but in an hour that was wiped out by a bitter north wind

sweeping the bare fields with icy rain and snow. The transport, pitched

in the filthy morass known as 'Scottish Lines,' saw its labour of three

weeks thrown away in a couple of nights. For the human beings there were

a few tents and huts, but in face of the searching wind canvas seemed

quite porous, and the huts were badly built and had a hundred openings

to the bitter air. But up at the Bluff conditions were terrible. The

trenches had disappeared under repeated bombardments, and had become

mere chains of shell holes in which the men stood up to their thighs in

liquid mud. When the C.O. arrived to take over the headquarters' dug-out

he found it blown to pieces. Within lay the bodies of the previous

occupants--four officers. Another dug-out was finally found. It was deep

in a bank at the end of a narrow passage twenty feet long. Within was a

chamber six feet long, four broad and four high, and in this place, so

horribly like a grave, the C.O., second-in-command, and adjutant lived

for three days and four nights. A candle gave light, and whenever a

shell burst above the flame jerked out. The sergeant-major and the

orderlies and servants lived in the tunnel, squatting on their haunches

in the mud. Outside there were no other dug-outs at all. The shelling

was continuous, but the cold was far worse. Men sank in the mud and

remained motionless for hours. Many fell into shell holes and had to be

hauled out with twisted telephone wires. The wounded suffered horribly.

Owing to the mud and the German barrage no supplies could be brought up,

and it was impossible to light braziers. On the fourth night relief

came, but it was daylight before the last company sucked itself out of

its mudholes and waded back in full view of the enemy. Fortunately a

blinding snowstorm swept down from the north and hid all movement just

when it seemed certain that disaster would occur. Every available

vehicle was sent up to meet the battalion, but there was a long walk

before these could be reached. The men crept along on sodden, swollen

feet--no gumboots had been obtainable. They came along in groups, now of

two or three, now of six or seven, or one by one. They were bent like

old men, and staggered as they walked, their faces set and grey. The

most terrible thing of all was the utter silence. Snow muffled the fall

of the dragging feet; it lay thick on the masses of ruins in the

shattered empty villages; and when the brigade major's greeting rang

out men shrank and looked fearful at the sudden sound. Yet when I spoke

to any, as they staggered through the snow past the point whither I had

gone to meet them, life flickered up for a moment from the depths of

that final exhaustion. 'What price Charlie Chaplin now, sir!' said one

man whose wavering footsteps led him hither and thither. And another in

simple words summed up the heroic simple spirit of them all: 'Well,

we've keepit up the reputation o' the auld mob, onyway.' Indomitable

men! Who could ever vanquish you?

Rest meant tent boards under frozen canvas, but it was rest. On that

weary morning even the uninviting outline of Reninghelst village seemed

like home.

THE HISTORIC TRIANGLE

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