Camp; and the Lord _Duncannon_ dying in _Alicant_, the first Guns that
were fir'd from _Gorge's_ Battery, were the Minute-Guns for his Funeral.
His Regiment had been given to the Lord _Montandre_, who lost it before
he had Possession, by an Action as odd as it was scandalous.
That Regiment had received Orders to march to the Lord _Galway's_ Camp,
under the Command of their Lieutenant-Colonel _Bateman_, a Person before
reputedly a good Officer, tho' his Conduct here gave People, not
invidious, too much Reason to call it in Question. On his March, he was
so very careless and negligent (though he knew himself in a Country
surrounded with Enemies, and that he was to march through a Wood, where
they every Day made their Appearance in great Numbers) that his Soldiers
march'd with their Muskets slung at their Backs, and went one after
another (as necessity had forc'd us to do in _Scotland_) himself at the
Head of 'em, in his Chaise, riding a considerable way before.
It happened there was a Captain, with threescore Dragoons, detach'd from
the Duke of _Berwick's_ Army, with a Design to intercept some Cash, that
was order'd to be sent to Lord _Galway's_ Army from _Alicant_. This
Detachment, missing of that intended Prize, was returning very
disconsolately, _Re infecta_; when their Captain, observing that
careless and disorderly March of the _English_, resolv'd, boldly enough,
to attack them in the Wood. To that Purpose he secreted his little Party
behind a great Barn; and so soon as they were half passed by, he falls
upon 'em in the Center with his Dragoons, cutting and slashing at such a
violent Rate, that he soon dispersed the whole Regiment, leaving many
dead and wounded upon the Spot. The three Colours were taken; and the
gallant Lieutenant-Colonel taken out of his Chaise, and carried away
Prisoner with many others; only one Officer who was an Ensign, and so
bold as to do his Duty, was kill'd.
The Lieutenant who commanded the Granadiers, received the Alarm time
enough to draw his Men into a House in their way; where he bravely
defended himself for a long Time; but being killed, the rest immediately
surrender'd. The Account of this Action I had from the Commander of the
Enemy's Party himself, some Time after, while I was a Prisoner. And
Captain _Mahoni_, who was present when the News was brought, that a few
_Spanish_ Dragoons had defeated an _English_ Regiment, which was this
under _Bateman_, protested to me, that the Duke of _Berwick_ turn'd pale
at the Relation; and when they offer'd to bring the Colours before him,
he would not so much as see them. A little before the Duke went to
Supper, _Bateman_ himself was brought to him, but the Duke turn'd away
from him without any further Notice than coldly saying, that _he thought
he was very strangely taken_. The Wags of the Army made a thorough jest
of him, and said his military Conduct was of a piece with his Oeconomy,
having two Days before this March, sent his young handsome Wife into
_England_, under the Guardship of the young Chaplain of the Regiment.
_April_ 15. In the Year 1707, being _Easter Monday_, we had in the
Morning a flying Report in _Alicant_, that there had been the Day before
a Battle at _Almanza_, between the Army under the Command of the Duke of
_Berwick_, and that of the _English_, under Lord _Galway_, in which the
latter had suffer'd an entire Defeat. We at first gave no great Credit
to it: But, alas, we were too soon woefully convinced of the Truth of
it, by Numbers that came flying to us from the conquering Enemy. Then
indeed we were satisfied of Truths, too difficult before to be credited.
But as I was not present in that calamitous Battle, I shall relate it,
as I received it from an Officer then in the Duke's Army.
To bring the Lord _Galway_ to a Battle, in a Place most commodious for
his purpose, the Duke made use of this Stratagem: He ordered two
_Irishmen_, both Officers, to make their way over to the Enemy as
Deserters; putting this Story in their Mouths, that the Duke of
_Orleans_ was in a full March to join the Duke of _Berwick_ with twelve
thousand Men; that this would be done in two Days, and that then they
would find out the Lord _Galway_, and force him to Fight, where-ever
they found him.
Lord _Galway_, who at this Time lay before _Villena_, receiving this
Intelligence from those well instructed Deserters, immediately rais'd
the Siege; with a Resolution, by a hasty March, to force the Enemy to
Battle, before the Duke of _Orleans_ should be able to join the Duke of
_Berwick_. To effect this, after a hard March of three long _Spanish_
Leagues in the heat of the Day; he appears a little after Noon in the
face of the Enemy with his fatigu'd Forces. Glad and rejoyc'd at the
Sight, for he found his Plot had taken; _Berwick_, the better to receive
him, draws up his Army in a half Moon, placing at a pretty good Advance
three Regiments to make up the Centre, with express Order, nevertheless,
to retreat at the very first Charge. All which was punctually observ'd,
and had its desired Effect; For the three Regiments, at the first Attack
gave way, and seemingly fled towards their Camp; the _English_, after
their customary Manner, pursuing them with Shouts and Hollowings. As
soon as the Duke of _Berwick_ perceiv'd his Trap had taken, he order'd
his right and left Wings to close; by which Means, he at once cut off
from the rest of their Army all those who had so eagerly pursu'd the
imaginary Runaways. In short, the Rout was total, and the most fatal
Blow that ever the _English_ receiv'd during the whole War with _Spain_.
Nor, as it is thought, with a great probability of Reason, had those
Troops that made their Retreat to the Top of the Hills, under Major
General _Shrimpton_, met with any better Fate than those on the Plain,
had the _Spaniards_ had any other General in the Command than the Duke
of _Berwick_; whose native Sympathy gave a check to the Ardour of a
victorious Enemy. And this was the sense of the _Spaniards_ themselves
after the Battle. Verifying herein that noble Maxim, _That Victory to
generous Minds is only an Inducement to Moderation_.
The Day after this fatal Battle (which gave occasion to a _Spanish_
piece of Wit, _that the English General had routed the French_) the Duke
of _Orleans_ did arrive indeed in the Camp, but with an Army of only
fourteen Attendants.
The fatal Effects of this Battle were soon made visible, and to none
more than those in _Alicant_. The Enemy grew every Day more and more
troublesome; visiting us in Parties more boldly than before: and often
hovering about us so very near, that with our Cannon we could hardly
teach 'em to keep a proper Distance. _Gorge_ the Governor of _Alicant_
being recall'd into _England_, Major General _Richards_ was by King
_Charles_ appointed Governor in his Place. He was a Roman Catholick, and
very much belov'd by the Natives on that Account; tho' to give him his
due, he behaved himself extremely well in all other Respects. It was in
his Time, that a Design was laid of surprising _Guardamere_, a small
Sea-port Town, in _Murcia_: But the military Bishop (for he was in a
literal Sense excellent _tam Marte, quam Mercurio_, among his many
others Exploits), by a timely Expedition, prevented that.
Governor _Richards_, my Post being always in the Castle, had sent to
desire me to give notice whenever I saw any Parties of the Enemy moving.
Pursuant to this Order, discovering one Morning a considerable body of
Horse towards _Elsha_, I went down into the Town, and told the Governor
what I had seen; and without any delay he gave his Orders, that a
Captain with threescore Men should attend me to an old House about a
Mile distance. As soon as we had got into it, I set about barricading
all the open Places, and Avenues, and put my Men in a Posture ready to
receive an Enemy, as soon as he should appear; upon which the Captain,
as a feint, ordered a few of his men to shew themselves on a rising
Ground just before the House. But we had like to have caught a Tartar:
For tho' the Enemy took the Train I had laid, and on sight of our small
Body on the Hill, sent a Party from their greater Body to intercept
them, before they could reach the Town; yet the Sequel prov'd, we had
mistaken their Number and it soon appeared to be much greater than we at
first imagin'd. However our Out-scouts, as I may call 'em, got safe into
the House; and on the Appearance of the Party, we let fly a full Volly,
which laid dead on the Spot three Men and one Horse. Hereupon the whole
Body made up to the House, but stood a-loof upon the Hill without reach
of our Shot. We soon saw our Danger from the number of the Enemy: And
well for us it was, that the watchful Governor had taken notice of it,
as well as we in the House. For observing us surrounded with the Enemy,
and by a Power so much superior, he marched himself with a good part of
the Garrison to our Relief. The Enemy stood a little time as if they
would receive 'em; but upon second thoughts they retir'd; and to our no
little Joy left us at Liberty to come out of the House and join the
Garrison.
Scarce a Day pass'd but we had some visits of the like kind attended
sometimes with Rencounters of this Nature; in so much that there was
hardly any stirring out in Safety for small Parties, tho' never so
little away. There was within a little Mile of the Town, an old
Vineyard, environed with a loose stone Wall: An Officer and I made an
Agreement to ride thither for an Airing. We did so, and after a little
riding, it came into my Head to put a Fright upon the Officer. And very
lucky for us both was that unlucky Thought of mine; pretending to see a
Party of the Enemy make up to us, I gave him the Alarm, set Spurs to my
Horse, and rid as fast as Legs could carry me. The Officer no way bated
of his Speed; and we had scarce got out of the Vineyard but my Jest
prov'd Earnest, twelve of the Enemy's Horse pursuing us to the very
Gates of the Town. Nor could I ever after prevail upon my
Fellow-Traveller to believe that he ow'd his Escape to Merriment more
than Speed.
Soon after my Charge, as to the Fortifications, was pretty well over, I
obtain'd Leave of the Governor to be absent for a Fortnight, upon some
Affairs of my own at _Valencia_. On my Return from whence, at a Town
call'd _Venissa_, I met two Officers of an _English_ Regiment, going to
the Place from whence I last came. They told me, after common
Congratulations, that they had left Major _Boyd_, at a little Place
call'd _Capel_, hiring another Mule, that he rode on thither having
tir'd and fail'd him; desiring withal, that if I met him, I would let
him know that they would stay for him at that Place. I had another
Gentleman in my Company, and we had travell'd on not above a League
further, whence, at a little Distance, we were both surpriz'd with a
Sight that seem'd to have set all Art at defiance, and was too odd for
any thing in Nature. It appear'd all in red, and to move; but so very
slowly, that if we had not made more way to that than it did to us, we
should have made it a Day's Journey before we met it. My Companion could
as little tell what to make of it as I; and, indeed, the nearer it came
the more monstrous it seem'd, having nothing of the Tokens of Man,
either Walking, Riding, or in any Posture whatever. At last, coming up
with this strange Figure of a Creature (for now we found it was
certainly such) what, or rather who, should it prove to be, but Major
_Boyd_? He was a Person of himself far from one of the least Proportion,
and mounted on a poor little Ass, with all his warlike Accoutrements
upon it, you will allow must make a Figure almost as odd as one of the
old _Centaurs_. The Morocco Saddle that cover'd the Ass was of Burden
enough for the Beast without its Master; and the additional Holsters
and Pistols made it much more weighty. Nevertheless, a Curb Bridle of
the largest Size cover'd his little Head, and a long red Cloak, hanging
down to the Ground, cover'd Jackboots, Ass, Master and all. In short, my
Companion and I, after we could specifically declare it to be a Man,
agreed we never saw a Figure so comical in all our Lives. When we had
merrily greeted our Major (for a _Cynick_ could not have forborn
Laughter) He excus'd all as well as he could, by saying he could get no
other Beast. After which, delivering our Message, and condoling with him
for his present Mounting, and wishing him better at his next Quarters,
he settled into his old Pace, and we into ours, and parted.
We lay that Night at _Altea_, famous for its Bay for Ships to water at.
It stands on a high Hill; and is adorn'd, not defended, with an old
Fort.
Thence we came to _Alicant_, where having now been a whole Year, and
having effected what was held necessary, I once more prevail'd upon the
Governor to permit me to take another Journey. The Lord _Galway_ lay at
_Tarraga_, while _Lerida_ lay under the Siege of the Duke of _Orleans_;
and having some Grounds of Expectation given me, while he was at
_Alicant_, I resolv'd at least to demonstrate I was still living. The
Governor favour'd me with Letters, not at all to my Disadvantage; so
taking Ship for _Barcelona_, just at our putting into the Harbour, we
met with the _English_ Fleet, on its Return from the Expedition to
_Toulon_ under Sir _Cloudsly Shovel_.
I stay'd but very few Days at _Barcelona_, and then proceeded on my
intended Journey to _Tarraga_; arriving at which Place I deliver'd my
Packet to the Lord _Galway_, who receiv'd me with very great Civility;
and to double it, acquainted me at the same time, that the Governor of
_Alicant_ had wrote very much in my Favour: But though it was a known
Part of that noble Lord's Character, that the first Impression was
generally strongest, I had Reason soon after to close with another
Saying, equally true, _That general Rules always admit of some
Exception_. While I was here we had News of the taking of the Town of
_Lerida_; the Prince of _Hesse_ (Brother to that brave Prince who lost
his Life before _Monjouick_) retiring into the Castle with the
Garrison, which he bravely defended a long time after.
When I was thus attending my Lord _Galway_ at _Tarraga_, he receiv'd
Intelligence that the Enemy had a Design to lay Siege to _Denia_;
whereupon he gave me Orders to repair there as Engineer. After I had
receiv'd my Orders, and taken Leave of his Lordship, I set out,
resolving, since it was left to my Choice, to go by way of _Barcelona_,
and there take Shipping for the Place of my Station; by which I propos'd
to save more time than would allow me a full Opportunity of visiting
_Montserat_, a Place I had heard much Talk of, which had fill'd me with
a longing Desire to see it. To say Truth, I had been told such
extravagant Things of the Place, that I could hardly impute more than
one half of it to any thing but _Spanish_ Rhodomontado's, the Vice of
extravagant Exaggeration being too natural to that Nation.
_MONTSERAT_ is a rising lofty Hill, in the very Middle of a spacious
Plain, in the Principality of _Catalonia_, about seven Leagues distant
from _Barcelona_ to the Westward, somewhat inclining to the North. At
the very first Sight, its Oddness of Figure promises something
extraordinary; and given at that Distance the Prospect makes somewhat of
a grand Appearance: Hundreds of aspiring Pyramids presenting themselves
all at once to the Eye, look, if I may be allowed so to speak, like a
little petrify'd Forrest; or, rather, like the awful Ruins of some
capacious Structure, the Labour of venerable Antiquity. The nearer you
approach the more it affects; but till you are very near you can hardly
form in your Mind any thing like what you find it when you come close to
it. Till just upon it you would imagine it a perfect Hill of Steeples;
but so intermingled with Trees of Magnitude, as well as Beauty, that
your Admiration can never be tir'd, or your Curiosity surfeited. Such I
found it on my Approach; yet much less than what I found it, was so soon
as I enter'd upon the very Premisses.
Now that stupendious Cluster of Pyramids affected me in a Manner
different to all before; and I found it so finely group'd with verdant
Groves, and here and there interspers'd with aspiring, but solitary
Trees, that it no way lessened my Admiration, while it increased my
Delight. Those Trees, which I call solitary, as standing single, in
opposition to the numerous Groves, which are close and thick (as I
observ'd when I ascended to take a View of the several Cells) rise
generally out of the very Clefts of the main Rock, with nothing, to
Appearance, but a Soil or bed of Stone for their Nurture. But though
some few Naturalists may assert, that the Nitre in the Stone may afford
a due Proportion of Nourishment to Trees and Vegetables; these, in my
Opinion, were all too beautiful, their Bark, Leaf, and Flowers, carry'd
too fair a Face of Health, to allow them even to be the Foster-children
of Rock and Stone only.
Upon this Hill, or if you please, Grove of Rocks, are thirteen Hermits
Cells, the last of which lies near the very Summit. You gradually
advance to every one, from Bottom to Top, by a winding Ascent; which to
do would otherwise be Impossible, by reason of the Steepness; but though
there is a winding Ascent to every Cell, as I have said, I would yet set
at defiance the most observant, if a Stranger, to find it feasible to
visit them in order, if not precaution'd to follow the poor _Borigo_, or
old Ass, that with Paniers hanging on each Side of him, mounts
regularly, and daily, up to every particular Cell. The Manner is as
follows:
In the Paniers there are thirteen Partitions; one for every Cell. At the
Hour appointed, the Servant having plac'd the Paniers on his Back, the
Ass, of himself, goes to the Door of the Convent at the very Foot of the
Hill, where every Partition is supply'd with their several Allowances of
Victuals and Wine. Which, as soon as he has receiv'd, without any
further Attendance, or any Guide, he mounts and takes the Cells
gradually, in their due Course, till he reaches the very uppermost.
Where having discharg'd his Duty, he descends the same Way, lighter by
the Load he carry'd up. This the poor stupid Drudge fails not to do, Day
and Night, at the stated Hours.
Two Gentlemen, who had join'd me on the Road, alike led by Curiosity,
seem'd alike delighted, that the End of it was so well answer'd. I could
easily discover in their Countenances a Satisfaction, which, if it did
not give a Sanction to my own, much confirm'd it, while they seem'd to
allow with me that these reverend Solitaries were truly happy Men; I
then thought them such; and a thousand times since, reflecting within my
self, have wish'd, bating their Errors, and lesser Superstitions, my
self as happily station'd: For what can there be wanting to a happy
Life, where all things necessary are provided without Care? Where the
Days, without Anxiety or Troubles, may be gratefully passed away, with
an innocent Variety of diverting and pleasing Objects, and where their
Sleep sand Slumbers are never interrupted with any thing more offensive,
than murmuring Springs, natural Cascades, or the various Songs of the
pretty feather'd Quiristers.
But their Courtesy to Strangers is no less engaging than their Solitude.
A recluse Life, for the Fruits of it, generally speaking, produces
Moroseness; Pharisaical Pride too often sours the Temper; and a mistaken
Opinion of their own Merit too naturally leads such Men into a Contempt
of others; But on the contrary, these good Men (for I must call them as
I thought them) seem'd to me the very Emblems of Innocence; so ready to
oblige others, that at the same Instant they seem'd laying Obligations
upon themselves. This is self-evident, in that Affability and
Complaisance they use in shewing the Rarities of their several Cells;
where, for fear you should slip any thing worthy Observation, they
endeavour to instil in you as quick a Propensity of asking, as you find
in them a prompt Alacrity in answering such Questions of Curiosity as
their own have inspir'd.
In particular, I remember one of those reverend old Men, when we were
taking Leave at the Door of his Cell, to which out of his great Civility
he accompany'd us, finding by the Air of our Faces, as well as our
Expressions, that we thought ourselves pleasingly entertain'd; to divert
us afresh, advanc'd a few Paces from the Door, when giving a Whistle
with his Mouth, a surprising Flock of pretty little Birds, variegated,
and of different Colours, immediately flock'd around him. Here you
should see some alighting upon his Shoulders, some on his awful Beard;
others took Refuge on his snow-like Head, and many feeding, and more
endeavouring to feed out of his Mouth; each appearing emulous and under
an innocent Contention, how best to express their Love and Respect to
their no less pleased Master.
Nor did the other Cells labour under any Deficiency of Variety: Every
one boasting in some particular, that might distinguish it in something
equally agreeable and entertaining. Nevertheless, crystal Springs
spouting from the solid Rocks were, from the highest to the lowest,
common to them all; and, in most of them, they had little brass Cocks,
out of which, when turn'd, issu'd the most cool and crystalline Flows of
excellent pure Water. And yet what more affected me, and which I found
near more Cells than one, was the natural Cascades of the same
transparent Element; these falling from one Rock to another, in that
warm, or rather hot Climate, gave not more delightful Astonishment to
the Eye, than they afforded grateful Refreshment to the whole Man. The
Streams falling from these, soften, from a rougher tumultuous Noise,
into such affecting Murmurs, by Distance, the Intervention of Groves, or
neighbouring Rocks, that it were impossible to see or hear them and not
be chann'd.
Neither are those Groves grateful only in a beautiful Verdure; Nature
renders them otherwise delightful, in loading them with Clusters of
Berries of a perfect scarlet Colour, which, by a beautiful Intermixture,
strike the Eye with additional Delight. In short, it might nonplus a
Person of the nicest Taste, to distinguish or determine, whether the
Neatness of their Cells within, or the beauteous Varieties without, most
exhaust his Admiration. Nor is the Whole, in my Opinion, a little
advantag'd by the frequent View of some of those pyramidical Pillars,
which seem, as weary of their own Weight, to recline and seek Support
from others in the Neighbourhood.
When I mention'd the outside Beauties of their Cells, I must be thought
to have forgot to particularize the glorious Prospects presented to your
Eye from every one of them; but especially from that nearest the Summit.
A Prospect, by reason of the Purity of the Air, so extensive, and so
very entertaining that to dilate upon it properly to one that never saw
it, would baffle Credit; and naturally to depaint it, would confound
Invention. I therefore shall only say, that on the _Mediterranean_ Side,
after an agreeable Interval of some fair Leagues, it will set at
defiance the strongest Opticks; and although _Barcelona_ bounds it on
the Land, the Eyes are feasted with the Delights of such an intervening
Champion (where beauteous Nature does not only smile, but riot) that the
Sense must be very temperate, or very weak, that can be soon or easily
satisfy'd.
Having thus taken a View of all their refreshing Springs, their
grateful Groves, and solitary Shades under single Trees, whose Clusters
prov'd that even Rocks were grown fruitful; and having ran over all the
Variety of Pleasures in their several pretty Cells, decently set off
with Gardens round the, equally fragrant and beautiful, we were brought
down again to the Convent, which, though on a small Ascent, lies very
near the Foot of this terrestrial Paradise, there to take a Survey of
their sumptuous Hall, much more sumptuous Chapel, and its adjoining
Repository; and feast our Eyes with Wonders of a different Nature; and
yet as entertaining as any, or all, we had seen before.