rendering our bad Circumstances much worse, the Earl of _Peterborow_ met
with a fortunate Reprieve, by Solicitations from the Queen, and Desires
tantamount to Orders, that he would go with the Troops left in
_Catalonia_ to the Relief of the Duke of _Savoy_. It is hardly to be
doubted that that General was glad to withdraw from those Scenes of
Confusion, which were but too visible to Eyes even less discerning than
his. However, he forebore to prepare himself to put her Majesty's
Desires in execution, as they were not peremptory, till it had been
resolv'd by the unanimous Consent of a Council of War, where the King,
all the Generals and Ministers were present. That it was expedient for
the Service that the Earl of _Peterborow_, during the Winter Season,
should comply with her Majesty's Desires, and go for _Italy_; since he
might return before the opening of the Campaign, if it should be
necessary. And return indeed he did, before the Campaign open'd, and
brought along with him one hundred thousand Pounds from _Genoa_, to the
great Comfort and Support of our Troops, which had neither Money nor
Credit. But on his Return, that noble Earl found the Lord _Galway_ had
been near as successful against him, as he had been unsuccessful against
the Enemy. Thence was the Earl of _Peterborow_ recall'd to make room for
an unfortunate General, who the next Year suffer'd himself to be decoy'd
into that fatal Battle of _Almanza_.
The Earl of _Peterborow_, on his leaving _Valencia_, had order'd his
Baggage to follow him to the Camp at _Guadalaxara_; and it arriv'd in
our little Camp, so far safe in its way to the greater at _Guadalaxara_.
I think it consisted of seven loaded Waggons; and General _Windham_ gave
Orders for a small Guard to escorte it; under which they proceeded on
their Journey: But about eight Leagues from _Cuenca_, at a pretty Town
call'd _Huette_, a Party from the Duke of _Berwick's_ Army, with Boughs
in their Hats, the better to appear what they were not (for the Bough in
the Hat is the Badge of the _English_, as white Paper is the Badge of
the _French_) came into the Town, crying all the way, _Viva Carlos
Tercero, Viva_. With these Acclamations in their Mouths, they advanc'd
up to the very Waggons; when attacking the Guards, who had too much
deluded themselves with Appearances, they routed 'em, and immediately
plunder'd the Waggons of all that was valuable, and then march'd off.
The Noise of this soon reach'd the Ears of the Earl of _Peterborow_ at
_Guadalaxara_. When leaving my Lord _Galways_ Camp, pursuant to the
Resolutions of the Council of War, with a Party only of fourscore of
_Killigrew's_ Dragoons, he met General _Windham's_ little Army within a
League of _Huette_, the Place where his Baggage had been plunder'd. The
Earl had strong Motives of Suspicion, that the Inhabitants had given
Intelligence to the Enemy; and, as is very natural, giving way to the
first Dictates of Resentment, he resolv'd to have lay'd the Town in
Ashes: But when he came near it, the Clergy and Magistrates upon their
Knees, disavowing the Charge, and asserting their Innocence, prevail'd
on the good Nature of that generous Earl, without any great Difficulty,
to spare the Town, at least not to burn it.
We march'd however into the Town, and that Night took up our Quarters
there; and the Magistrates, under the Dread of our avenging our selves,
on their part took Care that we were well supplied. But when they were
made sensible of the Value of the Loss, which the Earl had sustain'd;
and that on a moderate Computation it amounted to at least eight
thousand Pistoles; they voluntarily presented themselves next Morning,
and of their own accord offer'd to make his Lordship full Satisfaction,
and that, in their own Phrase, _de Contado, in Ready Money_. The Earl
was not displeas'd at their Offer; but generously made Answer, That he
was just come from my Lord _Galway's_ Camp at _Chincon_, where he found
they were in a likelihood of wanting Bread; and as he imagin'd it might
be easier to them to raise the Value in Corn, than in ready Money; if
they would send to that Value in Corn to the Lord _Galway's_ Camp, he
would be satisfy'd. This they with Joy embrac'd, and immediately
complied with.
I am apt to think the last Century (and I very much fear the Current
will be as deficient) can hardly produce a parallel Instance of
Generosity and true public Spiritedness; And the World will be of my
Opinion, when I have corroborated this with another Passage some Years
after. The Commissioners for Stating the Debts due to the Army, meeting
daily for that Purpose at their House in _Darby_ Court in _Channel Row_,
I there mentioned to Mr. _Read_, Gentleman to his Lordship, this very
just and honourable Claim upon the Government, as Monies advanced for
the Use of the Army. Who told me in a little Time after, that he had
mention'd it to his Lordship, but with no other Effect than to have it
rejected with a generous Disdain.
While we stayed at _Huette_ there was a little Incident in Life, which
gave me great Diversion. The Earl, who had always maintain'd a good
Correspondence with the fair Sex, hearing from one of the Priests of the
Place, That on the Alarm of burning the Town, one of the finest Ladies
in all _Spain_ had taken Refuge in the Nunnery, was desirous to speak
with her.
The Nunnery stood upon a small rising Hill within the Town; and to
obtain the View, the Earl had presently in his Head this Stratagem; he
sends for me, as Engineer, to have my Advice, how to raise a proper
Fortification upon that Hill out of the Nunnery. I waited upon his
Lordship to the Place, where declaring the Intent of our coming, and
giving plausible Reasons for it, the Train took, and immediately the
Lady Abbess, and the fair Lady, came out to make Intercession, That his
Lordship would be pleas'd to lay aside that Design. The divine Oratory
of one, and the beautiful Charms of the other, prevail'd; so his
Lordship left the Fortification to be the Work of some future
Generation.
From _Huette_ the Earl of _Peterborow_ march'd forwards for _Valencia_,
with only those fourscore Dragoons, which came with him from _Chincon_,
leaving General _Windham_ pursuing his own Orders to join his Forces to
the Army then under the Command of the Lord _Galway_. But stopping at
_Campilio_, a little Town in our Way, his Lordship had Information of a
most barbarous Fact committed that very Morning by the _Spaniards_, at a
small _Villa_, about a League distant, upon some _English_ Soldiers.
A Captain of the _English_ Guards (whose Name has slip'd my Memory, tho'
I well knew the Man) marching in order to join the Battalion of the
Guards, then under the Command of General _Windham_, with some of his
Soldiers, that had been in the Hospital, took up his Quarters in that
little _Villa_. But on his marching out of it, next Morning, a Shot in
the Back laid that Officer dead upon the Spot: And as it had been before
concerted, the _Spaniards_ of the Place at the same Time fell upon the
poor, weak Soldiers, killing several; not even sparing their Wives. This
was but a Prelude to their Barbarity; their savage Cruelty was only
whetted, not glutted. They took the surviving few; hurried and dragg'd
them up a Hill, a little without the _Villa_. On the Top of this Hill
there was a Hole, or Opening, somewhat like the Mouth of one of our
Coal-Pits, down this they cast several, who, with hideous Shrieks and
Cries, made more hideous by the Ecchoes of the Chasm, there lost their
Lives.
This Relation was thus made to the Earl of _Peterborow_, at his Quarters
at _Campilio_; who immediately gave Orders for to sound to Horse. At
first we were all surpriz'd; but were soon satisfy'd, that it was to
revenge, or rather, do Justice, on this barbarous Action.
As soon as we enter'd the _Villa_ we found that most of the Inhabitants,
but especially the most Guilty, had withdrawn themselves on our
Approach. We found, however, many of the dead Soldiers Cloaths, which
had been convey'd into the Church, and there hid. And a strong
Accusation being laid against a Person belonging to the Church, and full
Proof made, that he had been singularly Industrious in the Execution of
that horrid Piece of Barbarity on the Hill, his Lordship commanded him
to be hang'd up at the Knocker of the Door.
After this piece of military Justice, we were led up to the fatal Pit or
Hole, down which many had been cast headlong. There we found one poor
Soldier alive, who, upon his throwing in, had catch'd fast hold of some
impending Bushes, and sav'd himself on a little Jutty within the
Concavity. On hearing us talk _English_ he cry'd out; and Ropes being
let down, in a little Time he was drawn up; when he gave us an ample
Detail of the whole Villany. Among other Particulars, I remember he told
me of a very narrow Escape he had in that obscure Recess. A poor Woman,
one of the Wives of the Soldiers, who were thrown down after him,
struggled, and roared so much, that they could not, without all their
Force, throw her cleaverly in the Middle; by which means falling near
the Side, in her Fall she almost beat him from his Place of Security.
Upon the Conclusion of this tragical Relation of the Soldier thus saved,
his Lordship gave immediate Orders for the Firing of the _Villa_, which
was executed with due Severity: After which his Lordship march'd back to
his Quarters at _Campilio_; from whence, two Days after, we arriv'd at
_Valencia_, Where, the first Thing presented to that noble Lord, was all
the Papers taken in the Plunder of his Baggage, which the Duke of
_Berwick_ had generously order'd to be return'd him, without waste or
opening.
It was too manifest, after the Earl's arrival at this City, that the
Alteration in the Command of the _English_ Forces, which before was only
receiv'd as a Rumour, had deeper Grounds for Belief, than many of his
Friends in that City could have wish'd. His Lordship had gain'd the Love
of all by a Thousand engaging Condescensions; even his Gallantries being
no way prejudicial, were not offensive; and though his Lordships did his
utmost to conceal his Chagrin, the Sympathy of those around him made
such Discoveries upon him, as would have disappointed a double Portion
of his Caution. They had seen him un-elated under Successes, that were
so near being unaccountable, that in a Country of less Superstition than
_Spain_, they might almost have pass'd for miraculous; they knew full
well, that nothing, but that Series of Successes had pav'd a Passage for
the General that was to supersede him; those only having removed all the
Difficulties of his March from _Portugal_ to _Madrid_; they knew him the
older General; and therefore not knowing, that in the Court he came
from, Intrigue was too often the Soul of Merit, they could not but be
amazed at a Change, which his Lordship was unwilling any body should
perceive by himself.
It was upon this Account, that, as formerly, he treated the Ladies with
Balls, and to pursue the Dons in their own Humour, order'd a _Tawridore_
or _Bull-Feast_. In _Spain_ no sort of public Diversions are esteemed
equal with this. But the Bulls provided at _Valencia_, not being of the
right Breed, nor ever initiated in the Mysteries, did not acquit
themselves at all masterly; and consequently, did not give the
Diversion, or Satisfaction expected. For which Reason I shall omit
giving a Description of this Bull-Feast; and desire my Reader to suspend
his Curiosity till I come to some, which, in the _Spanish_ Sense, were
much more entertaining; that is, attended with much greater Hazards and
Danger.
But though I have said, the Gallantries of the General were mostly
political at least very inoffensive; yet there happen'd about this Time,
and in this Place, a piece of Gallantry, that gave the Earl a vast deal
of Offence and Vexation; as a Matter, that in its Consequences might
have been fatal to the Interest of King _Charles_, if not to the
_English_ Nation in general; and which I the rather relate, in that it
may be of use to young Officers, and others; pointing out to them the
Danger, not to say Folly, of inadvertent and precipitate Engagements,
under unruly Passions.
I have said before, that _Valencia_ is famous for fine Women. It indeed
abounds in them; and among those, are great Numbers of Courtezans not
inferior in Beauty to any. Nevertheless, two of our _English_ Officers,
not caring for the common Road, however safe, resolv'd to launch into
the deeper Seas, though attended with much greater Danger. Amours, the
common Failing of that fair City, was the Occasion of this Accident, and
two Nuns the Objects. It is customary in that Country for young People
in an Evening to resort to the Grates of the Nunneries, there to divert
themselves, and the Nuns, with a little pleasant and inoffensive
Chit-chat. For though I have heard some relate a World of nauseous
Passages at such Conversations, I must declare, that I never saw, or
heard any Thing unseemly; and therefore whenever I have heard any such
from such Fabulists, I never so much wrong'd my Judgment as to afford
them Credit.
Our two Officers were very assiduous at the Grates of a Nunnery in this
Place; and having there pitch'd upon two Nuns, prosecuted their Amours
with such Vigour, that, in a little time, they had made a very great
Progress in their Affections, without in the least considering the
Dangers that must attend themselves and the Fair; they had exchang'd
Vows, and prevail'd upon the weaker Vessels to endeavour to get out to
their Lovers. To effect which, soon after, a Plot was lay'd; the Means,
the Hour, and every thing agreed upon.
It is the Custom of that Nunnery, as of many others, for the Nuns to
take their weekly Courses in keeping the Keys of all the Doors. The two
Love-sick Ladies giving Notice to their Lovers at the Grate, that one of
their Turns was come, the Night and Hour was appointed, which the
Officers punctually observing, carry'd off their Prey without either
Difficulty or Interruption.
But next Morning, when the Nuns were missing, what an Uproar was there
over all the City? The Ladies were both of Quality; and therefore the
Tidings were first carry'd to their Relations. They receiv'd the News
with Vows of utmost Vengeance; and, as is usual in that Country, put
themselves in Arms for that Purpose. There needed no great canvassing
for discovering who were the Aggressors: The Officers had been too
frequent, and too publick, in their Addresses, to leave any room for
question. Accordingly, they were complain'd of and sought for, but
sensible at last of their past Temerity, they endeavour'd, and with a
great deal of Difficulty perfected their Escape.
Less fortunate were the two fair Nuns; their Lovers, in their utmost
Exigence, had forsaken them; and they, poor Creatures, knew not where to
fly. Under this sad Dilemma they were taken; and, as in like Offences,
condemn'd directly to the Punishment of _immuring_. And what greater
Punishment is there on Earth than to be confin'd between four narrow
Walls, only open at the Top; and thence to be half supported with Bread
and Water, till the Offenders gradually starve to Death?
The Earl of _Peterborow_, though highly exasperated at the Proceedings
of his Officers, in compassion to the unhappy Fair, resolv'd to
interpose by all the moderate Means possible. He knew very well, that no
one Thing could so much prejudice the _Spaniard_ against him, as the
countenancing such an Action; wherefore he inveigh'd against the
Officers, at the same time that he endeavour'd to mitigate in favour of
the Ladies: But all was in vain; it was urg'd against those charitable
Intercessions, that they had broke their Vows; and in that had broke in
upon the Laws of the Nunnery and Religion; the Consequence of all which
could be nothing less than the Punishment appointed to be inflicted. And
which was the hardest of all, the nearest of their Relations most
oppos'd all his generous Mediations; and those, who according to the
common Course of Nature should have thank'd him for his Endeavours to be
instrumental in rescuing them from the impending Danger, grew more and
more enrag'd, because he oppos'd them in their Design of a cruel
Revenge.
Notwithstanding all which the Earl persever'd; and after a deal of
Labour, first got the Penalty suspended; and, soon after, by the Dint of
a very considerable Sum of Money (a most powerful Argument, which
prevails in every Country) sav'd the poor Nuns from immuring; and at
last, though with great Reluctance, he got them receiv'd again into the
Nunnery. As to the Warlike Lovers, one of them was the Year after slain
at the Battle of _Almanza_; the other is yet living, being a Brigadier
in the Army.
While the Earl of _Peterborow_ was here with his little Army of great
Hereticks, neither Priests nor People were so open in their
superstitious Fopperies, as I at other times found them. For which
Reason I will make bold, and by an Antichronism in this Place, a little
anticipate some Observations that I made some time after the Earl left
it. And as I have not often committed such a Transgression, I hope it
may be the more excusable now, and no way blemish my Memoirs, that I
break in upon the Series of my Journal.
_VALENCIA_ is a handsome City, and a Bishoprick; and is considerable not
only for the Pleasantness of its Situation and beautiful Ladies; but
(which at some certain Times, and on some Occasions, to them is more
valuable than both those put together) for being the Birth-place of
Saint _Vincent_, the Patron of the Place; and next for its being the
Place where _Santo Domingo_, the first Institutor of the _Dominican_
Order had his Education. Here, in honour of the last, is a spacious and
very splendid Convent of the _Dominicans_. Walking by which, I one Day
observ'd over the Gate, a Figure of a man in stone; and near it a Dog
with a lighted Torch in his Mouth. The Image I rightly enough took to
intend that of the Saint; but inquiring of one of the Order, at the
Gate, the Meaning of the Figures near it, he very courteously ask'd me
to walk in, and then entertain'd me with the following Relation:
When the Mother of _Santo Domingo_, said that Religious, was with Child
of that future Saint, she had a Dream which very much afflicted her. She
dreamt that she heard a Dog bark in her Belly; and inquiring (at what
Oracle is not said) the Meaning of her Dream, she was told, _That that
Child should bark out the Gospel_ (excuse the Bareness of the
Expression, it may run better in _Spanish_; tho', if I remember right,
_Erasmus_ gives it in _Latin_ much the same Turn) _which should thence
shine out like that lighted Torch_. And this is the Reason, that
wherever you see the Image of that Saint, a Dog and a lighted Torch is
in the Group.
He told me at the same time, that there had been more Popes and
Cardinals of that Order than of any, if not all the other. To confirm
which, he led me into a large Gallery, on each Side whereof he shew'd me
the Pictures of all the Popes and Cardinals that had been of that Order;
among which, I particularly took Notice of that of Cardinal _Howard_,
great Uncle to the present Duke of _Norfolk_. But after many _Encomiums_
of their Society, with which he interspers'd his Discourse, he added one
that I least valu'd it for; That the sole Care and Conduct of the
Inquisition was intrusted with them.
Finding me attentive, or not so contradictory as the _English_ Humour
generally is, he next brought me into a fair and large Cloister, round
which I took several Turns with him; and, indeed, The Place was too
delicious to tire, under a Conversation less pertinent or courteous than
that he entertain'd me with. In the Middle of the Cloister was a small
but pretty and sweet Grove of Orange and Lemon-trees; these bore Fruit
ripe and green, and Flowers, all together on one Tree; and their Fruit
was so very large and beautiful, and their Flowers so transcendently
odoriferous, that all I had ever seen of the like Kind in _England_
could comparatively pass only for Beauty in Epitome, or Nature imitated
in Wax-work. Many Flocks also of pretty little Birds, with their
chearful Notes, added not a little to my Delight. In short, in Life I
never knew or found three of my Senses at once so exquisitely gratify'd.
Not far from this, Saint _Vincent_, the Patron, as I said before, of
this City, has a Chapel dedicated to him. Once a Year they do him Honour
in a sumptuous Procession. Then are their Streets all strow'd with
Flowers, and their Houses set off with their richest Tapestries, every
one strives to excel his Neighbour in distinguishing himself by the
Honour he pays to that Saint; and he is the best Catholick, as well as
the best Citizen, in the Eye of the _religious_, who most exerts himself
on this Occasion.
The Procession begins with a Cavalcade of all the Friars of all the
Convents in and about the City. These walk two and two with folded Arms,
and Eyes cast down to the very Ground, and with the greatest outward
Appearance of Humility imaginable; nor, though the Temptation from the
fine Women that fill'd their Windows, or the rich Tapestries that
adorn'd the Balconies might be allow'd sufficient to attract, could I
observe that any one of them all ever mov'd them upwards.
After the Friars is borne, upon the Shoulders of twenty Men at least, an
Imagine of that Saint of solid Silver, large as the Life; It is plac'd
in a great Chair of Silver likewise; the Staves that bear him up, and
upon which they bear him, being of the same Metal. The whole is a most
costly and curious Piece of Workmanship, such as my Eyes never before or
since beheld.
The Magistrates follow the Image and its Supporters, dress'd in their
richest Apparel, which is always on this Day, and on this Occasion,
particularly sumptuous and distinguishing. Thus is the Image, in the
greatest Splendor, borne and accompany'd round that fine City; and at
last convey'd to the Place from whence it came: And so concludes that
annual Ceremony.
The _Valencians_, as to the Exteriors of Religion, are the most devout
of any in _Spain_, though in common Life you find them amorous, gallant,
and gay, like other People; yet on solemn Occasions there shines
out-right such a Spirit as proves them the very Bigots of Bigotry: As a
Proof of which Assertion, I will now give some Account of such
Observations, as I had time to make upon them, during two _Lent_
Seasons, while I resided there.
The Week before the _Lent_ commences, commonly known by the Name of
_Carnaval Time_, the whole City appears a perfect _Bartholomew_ Fair;
the Streets are crouded, and the Houses empty; nor is it possible to
pass along without some Gambol or Jack-pudding Trick offer'd to you;
Ink, Water, and sometimes Ordure, are sure to be hurl'd at your Face or
Cloaths; and if you appear concern'd or angry, they rejoyce at it,
pleas'd the more, the more they displease; for all other Resentment is
at that time out of Season, though at other times few in the World are
fuller of Resentment or more captious.
The younger Gentry, or Dons, to express their Gallantry, carry about
them Egg-shells, fill'd with Orange or other sweet Water, which they
cast at Ladies in their Coaches, or such other of the fair Sex as they
happen to meet in the Streets.
But after all, if you would think them extravagant to Day, as much
transgressing the Rules of common Civility, and neither regarding
Decency to one another, nor the Duty they owe to Almighty God; yet when
_Ash-Wednesday_ comes you will imagine them more unaccountable in their
Conduct, being then as much too excessive in all outwards Indications of
Humility and Repentance. Here you shall meet one, bare-footed, with a
Cross on his Shoulder, a Burden rather fit for somewhat with four Feet,
and which his poor Two are ready to sink under, yet the vain Wretch
bears and sweats, and sweats and bears, in hope of finding Merit in an
Ass's Labour.
Others you shall see naked to their Wastes, whipping themselves with
Scourges made for the Purpose, till the Blood follows every Stroke; and
no Man need be at a Loss to follow them by the very Tracks of Gore they
shed in this frentick Perambulation. Some, who from the Thickness of
their Hides, or other Impediments, have not Power by their Scourgings to
fetch Blood of themselves, are follow'd by Surgeons with their Lancets,
who at every Turn, make use of them, to evince the Extent of their
Patience and Zeal by the Smart of their Folly. While others, mingling
Amour with Devotion, take particular Care to present themselves all
macerated before the Windows of their Mistresses; and even in that
Condition, not satisfy'd with what they have barbarously done to
themselves, they have their Operators at hand, to evince their Love by
the Number of their Gashes and Wounds; imagining the more Blood they
lose, the more Love they shew, and the more they shall gain. These are
generally Devoto's of Quality; though the Tenet is universal, that he
that is most bloody is most devout.