CHAPTER VII

The last struggles of a rebellion--Departure of Captain Plessier--Our

new commander--Man-hunting--A friend in need--A false alarm--An

unexpected rise in life--On the Brigade Staff.

The remnants of the rebel forces, which had been smashed and dispersed

by Colonel Geil's column in the lower Yen-Thé, fled north and rallied

round their chief, De-Tam, who was hiding, together with a small number

of his most trusted retainers, in one of the wildest spots in the

dense forest region of the north-west of Nha-Nam, and about 10 miles

from that fort. This district is known to the natives by the name of

Quinh-Low.

At this time, owing to the large number of rebels we had slain or

captured, or who had surrendered during the past two months, the total

number of insurgents with De-Tam did not exceed two hundred. Efforts

had been made by the provincial mandarins to secure the chieftain's

submission. The French Government, preferring, if possible, to adopt

a policy of conciliation, rather than run the risks and be burdened

with the heavy expense resulting from a protracted struggle with such a

brave, resourceful and mobile foe, authorised the native functionaries

to offer the leader of the insurrection not only his life and liberty,

but also a remunerative post in the local administration, on the

condition that he would come in with his men and deliver up his arms

and ammunition.

These negotiations fell through, however, for De-Tam refused all offers

made to him, and wrote several letters to the French authorities in

which he informed them, in his usual high-flown, bombastic style,

that he would never surrender, and that he still possessed the utmost

confidence in the ultimate success of the cause he represented.

Notwithstanding these assertions, it is very probable that he would

gladly have accepted the terms offered had he been certain of enjoying

a quiet and comfortable life after his capitulation; but he was too

well versed in the natural cunning of his race not to know full well

that, in the event of his surrender, his very existence would be a

cause of constant dread to his former associates, the mandarins of the

Court of Hué, and they would most certainly find a way of ensuring his

silence, by means both wily and rapid, in the use of which Orientals

are experts.

From papers captured by the French troops, when they surprised the

encampment at Quinh-Low a few weeks later, it was learnt that the chief

had decided on the construction of a new series of defensive positions

in this region, with the intention of carrying on the rebellion with

something like its former success. His desires in this respect were,

however, doomed to disappointment, for such was the constant activity

of the troops occupying the different parts in the upper Yen-Thé

that no rest or respite were allowed him or his men. When the main

expedition had been broken up at the end of March, General Voyron had

given orders for the permanent occupation of the fortified positions at

Mo-Trang and Mona-Luong. These two forts, which had both been captured

from the enemy by the Thaï-Nguyen column, were well constructed, and

they required but little labour, mainly in the direction of felling

the trees that were too close up to the ramparts, to make them almost

impregnable when properly garrisoned. For several months after the

conclusion of the principal operations, the troops from these two

forts, together with the men from Nha-Nam and Bo-Ha, chased De-Tam from

one hiding-place to another; and, in consequence, he was never able to

establish any permanent centre of resistance.

Early in May my section was relieved by a similar detachment of the

Legion from Thaï-Nguyen, and we left Bo-Ha--for good this time--and

returned to our company at Nha-Nam.

On the 10th of the same month we were assembled under arms to witness

the departure of Captain Plessier, who was leaving for Haïphong, whence

he sailed for France a few days later. Our new commander, Captain

Watrin, took over the company and escorted his predecessor as far as

Cao-Thuong. Though the officer who was leaving us had always been a

severe disciplinarian, unsparing in regard to the work he had required

of us, yet his departure was a cause of chagrin to his Legionaries;

and their rough, though heartfelt expressions of regret were numerous

and outspoken. None of the officers are allowed to remain more than

three consecutive years in Tonquin, though they can return there after

a sojourn with their regiment in Algeria. Our Captain had completed his

period of colonial service, so that he could not have remained longer

with us even had he desired so to do. Officers of his stamp, that is,

men whose bravery is undisputed, who are severe but also anxious for

the welfare of the troops under their orders, will always be popular

with the Legionaries. His successor eventually became an even greater

favourite with the company, for, besides the qualities mentioned

already, he had a real affection for his men, though, when the occasion

required it, he tempered this sentiment with necessary sternness. He

regarded his command as a family, of which he was proud to be the head,

and made no show of the taciturn aloofness which had characterised his

predecessor. Captain Watrin, who was about thirty-eight years of age,

was a splendid specimen of humanity, for he was tall, broad-shouldered,

and extremely powerful. Fair, with blue eyes and a ruddy complexion,

he was a typical son of the "Lost Provinces"; and the fact of his

being a native of a village near Strassburg added not a little to his

popularity with the numerous Alsatians in the company. He seemed to

take a real pleasure in making himself acquainted with the individual

joys and sorrows of his men. Whenever the chance offered itself,

he would question us discreetly concerning our private hopes and

ambitions, and do his best to prove to his subordinates that he was to

them not only a chief, inflexible as far as questions of discipline

were concerned, but also a friend to whom they could confide their

troubles, ever ready with a word of consolation or advice, and all

the aid it lay in his power to render. His enquiries were probably

distasteful to such of the men as possessed a past they did not care to

recall; but when he perceived that a private was reluctant to confide

in him, he was too tactful to insist on the subject, and would smooth

matters over by a cheerful, "_Et bien, mon brave._ When you want a

confessor, come to me. I may perhaps be able to help you."

A few weeks after his arrival he was able to address every private

in his company by name, a trait which is exceedingly rare with the

officers in the French army. There is no doubt that the men were very

grateful to him for this detail, which certainly proved that their

chief was aware the Legionary was not merely an _enfant perdu_, to be

known only by the number stamped on each article of his kit, but that

he recognised that his men, like the rest of mankind, possessed their

just share of pride and passion, vice and virtue.

He very soon showed us that his military talents were of sterling

quality, for in his first engagements with the enemy it was at once

evident that his dispositions for the attack were taken with great

coolness and forethought, and with the careful intention of avoiding

all wanton loss of life. During the final rush and scrimmage he was

ever to the fore, and would not be denied the place of honour at the

head of the assault, which he led with no other weapon than a thick

stick.

Our company was kept continually on the move during the months of May

and June, reconnaissances and ambuscades being of daily occurrence.

Often we would make a night march, and, operating in conjunction with

parties sent out from the other forts, rush at dawn a village in which

several of the rebels had passed the night, or capture an encampment

situated in some out-of-the-way corner of the forest, or hidden in a

narrow jungle-covered defile between tall, steep hills.

Our ambuscades were generally placed on the paths leading to the south

by which supplies, coming from the few isolated villages still friendly

to the rebel cause, reached the enemy. These expeditions always

took place at night, for our foes no longer possessed the strength

and confidence which had allowed them to move about the country by

day, as they had been in the habit of doing before the downfall of

their citadels. To the majority of us the excitement of these little

expeditions was a source of real joy, notwithstanding the dose of

fever or twinge of rheumatism that sometimes resulted. We enjoyed the

silent, stealthy march through the dark, the long wait, hidden in rank

jungle, with anxious eyes peering through the gloom, our fingers on

the trigger, all listening intently to the thousand soft noises of

the night. Every nerve would be strained to its utmost tension, every

faculty keenly on the alert. The rustle of the long grass as a deer or

wild hog moved cautiously through it, the breaking of a twig, the hoot

of an owl, or even the sudden shrill chirp of the cicala would make the

heart leap with expectation, so that its hurried throb sent the blood

coursing through the arteries, and the system would tingle again under

a wave of suppressed excitement. More often than not our expectation

would be disappointed, for the enemy failed to put in an appearance,

though now and again our patience would be rewarded by a scrimmage, and

a convoy would be captured and several rebels slain or taken. Once our

ambuscade was surrounded and suddenly rushed by a strong band of most

determined Chinese banditti, of whose presence in the region we were

unaware. It is probable that they were going south with a convoy of

contraband opium. A desperate hand-to-hand struggle took place in the

dark. One of our men was killed in the first charge, and several were

wounded. One of the latter, a bugler, died of his injuries a few days

later. It is difficult to surmise what would have been the result of

the combat had not another detachment of our men, which had been posted

at a small ford about half a mile away, come to our assistance, for we

were completely surrounded, and owing to the blackness of the night we

could hardly distinguish our foes, who were cunning enough not to make

use of their rifles, attacking us instead at close quarters with their

heavy swords. On finding themselves charged in the rear the Celestials

withdrew, and at daybreak we found six of their dead on or near the

position. All these had been slain by the bayonet, for there had been

but little firing on our side since, owing to the danger of shooting

our friends, it had been found necessary to keep to steel. Though our

adventure lasted only a few minutes, I think those of us who escaped

unhurt from the _mêlée_ were passing thankful when it was over; for

never was it better proved that if in warfare an ambuscade can cause

great hurt to an enemy who comes upon it unawares, that same ambuscade

is in danger of total destruction should the enemy be forewarned of its

presence.

At this time, thanks to the experience they had acquired during the

past year and a half, and also to their having been employed during

the last three months in continually chasing the enemy from place to

place, through the wildest country it is possible to imagine, the men

of my company had become splendid jungle fighters. Each of them was

now not only a hardened, almost fever-proof soldier, but also a good

shot and an efficient scout, ever on the alert to notice each sign by

the way, to catch each sound in the air, and understand their meaning.

A footprint, a broken twig, a tiny streak of smoke creeping up from

between the trees to the sky, the dull thud of the distant axe as it

hit the wood, and the hundred and one other trifling indications of

the passage of man in the tangle of forest-covered hills were at once

seized upon and put to profit.

Conversant with the enemy's methods of fighting in the dark glades and

sombre thickets of his favourite haunts, the Legionaries and their

officers had learnt to trust no longer to the paths, but to advance

silently yet swiftly through the undergrowth, taking advantage of

every bit of cover, and making of each tree in the wood, each rise in

the ground, a temporary rampart. Encouraged by their officers, the men

took great delight in this new sport, which seemed more like a hunt,

in which the quarry was man, than regular warfare. The fact of their

not being continually in touch with their officers and "non-coms,"

and having consequently to depend sometimes on their own resources,

developed their individual initiative and self-reliance; whilst the

novelty of the situation gave full scope to their courage and love of

adventure. Perhaps with troops possessing less stamina and _morale_,

even these short periods of independent action would have been

dangerous, but with these well-disciplined and seasoned soldiers of the

Legion this new method of attack seemed rather to increase the zeal and

self-confidence of the men.

The following statement, drawn up by a rebel deserter, the written

translation of which still exists, most probably, in the records at

the headquarters of the 2nd Brigade, will give some idea of how hard

pressed were De-Tam and his faithful few by our troops at this period.

"The favourite wife of our old chief De-Nam was heavy with child when

the fire from the big guns and the approach of your infantry in such

great numbers obliged us to evacuate our positions. Notwithstanding

her condition she accompanied De-Tam and his lieutenants De-Truat and

De-Hué into the great forest at Quinh-Low. Here she gave birth to a

male child, posthumous son of our former leader; this was on the second

day of the fifth month" (May 26th). "At this time there were but few

men with De-Tam, for the majority of our troops had been scattered

all over the country, and many had gone south to their villages; thus

we were but sixty men armed with rifles, and with us were seven women

and two little ones. We had plenty to eat, for we drew rice from the

secret hiding-places in the forest, where great store of this food had

been placed many months before, by the wise orders of our Ong (Lord),

who was dead. But the white soldiers left us no peace, and each day

they pressed us so hard that we dared not sleep two nights in the

same place. At last we found a cave, to reach which we had to descend

a passage leading straight down into the earth." (In this district

are to be found numerous workings of former iron mines which were

abandoned several centuries ago, and are now overgrown with jungle. It

is probably to one of these that the deserter made allusion.) "We had

been in hiding in this place for several days when a party of soldiers,

who had followed the tracks of one of our men who had been sent out to

fetch water, nearly discovered our retreat. These soldiers hunted for

us until sundown and remained all the night in the forest, so that,

knowing this and fearing lest the cries of the young child should

betray us, De-Tam ordered us to dig a hole, and in it De-Nam's son was

buried alive.

"When the mother was told of what had befallen her babe--for it had

been taken from her whilst she was sleeping, and she knew not where it

had gone--she was stricken with much sorrow, and went away from us,

weeping and complaining, into the forest, where she slew herself in the

agony of her grief.

"On the morrow, when the troops had moved off a little, we succeeded in

getting away further into the jungle...."

* * * * *

The 9th June, 1902, I happened to be with a scouting party, and came

upon the body of the dead woman. It was still warm, and a native knife,

embedded right up to the hilt, had pierced the heart. Like the rest of

my comrades, I imagined at the time that this unfortunate creature had

been murdered by the rebels; and it was only several weeks later, when

assisting at the examination of the deserter mentioned above, that I

learned what had really happened.

On my return to Nha-Nam in May, I had been glad to renew relations with

my friend Doy-Tho; and whenever I found time to do so, I passed my

evenings in his _caigna_, and, seated beside him as he smoked, talked

over the situation.

He was always very well informed on all that was going on, though he

most certainly owed much of his knowledge to his former enemy, but

now devoted friend, Linh-Nghi, who, since the termination of the main

operations, had been nominated to the important post of _lu-thuong_

(headman) of the village of Long-Thuong; and, in return for the

services he had rendered to the authorities, important stretches of

cultivated land, formerly owned by some of the rebels, had been made

over to him.

It was from Tho that I learned of the lasting impression which the

rapid capture of all De-Tam's fortifications had produced upon the

population of the Yen-Thé. The majority of the people, he said, were no

longer moved to enthusiasm by this chiefs appeals to their patriotism,

and they now possessed no confidence in the ultimate success of the

movement in favour of their exiled monarch. However, my friend was

never weary of repeating that, until the French succeeded in killing or

capturing De-Tam, the chief would be a source of constant trouble in

the region, because most of the peasants possessed such a real dread

of him, that but few of the villages would dare to refuse his demands

for money or rice, so long as he remained an outlaw, and had at his

disposal a band of cruel and determined partisans.

Though I think that Tho was glad of my company, it was evident to me

that he was chagrined at my continued refusal to become a votary of the

soothing drug, which, like the majority of his compatriots, he regarded

as one of the necessities of existence. His disgust at my persistence

was all the more intense because it was an open secret that several of

the French officers and sergeants, serving in the native regiments,

smoked opium, and took but little pains to conceal the fact. He would

give me as examples the names of his superiors who indulged in the

pleasure procured by the subtle poison, hoping to induce me to follow

their example; though, curiously enough, he would generally conclude

his exhortations with quaint reflections full of irony, concerning the

excess to which most of the Europeans who indulged in this passion

would go; and he would then, in grandiloquent terms, replete with

Oriental conceit, inform me that he was himself complete master of his

own desires. He would swell with pride and delight when, to humour him,

I would praise his powers of self-control, though, for the matter of

that, I was convinced the length of his purse and the veto of Ba, his

wife, had more to do with the number of pipes he smoked, than any check

he was himself capable of imposing on his cravings.

He would speak at length on this subject, bringing out his words with

a slow, drawling, sing-song cadence in which there was no indication

of emotion, though now and again, when he had given an opinion he

considered was possessed of more than ordinary value, he would pause

somewhat longer than necessary, watching me intently the while, to see

if I had fully grasped the sense of his argument and appreciated the

beauty of his flowery metaphor.

"Yes, friend," he would say. "Tell me, I beg you, has not Heaven

given to us men the different pleasures of life so that we shall draw

from them delight wherewith to lighten our troubles and to forget our

hardships? Indeed you do know, since I myself told it to you, that

our wise men have long since decided that these numerous and varied

pleasures can be classified according to their merits, which consist in

the degree of bliss they can procure us. Each of these emotions finds

its proper place in its proper section, which last is itself one of

'The Seven Joys,' even as a soldier has his appointed position in one

of the four battalions of his regiment. The ancients represented 'The

Seven Joys' by as many bats, because, like our pleasures, these animals

flit around us in eccentric curves; though it requires but a little

patience and a light blow to bring them to our feet. That is why in

our pagodas, our houses and upon the altars to our ancestors you will

always see, sculptured or painted, the seven bats which are 'The Seven

Joys.'

"Heaven has sent us a thousand flowers--of which the most beautiful is

the sacred lotus--so that we should admire their colours and shape,

glory in their scent and draw great joy therefrom; also the splendour

of our hills, our forests and our rivers, the beauty of our women, the

love of our little ones, the pleasures of the chase, and the gladness

in the slaughter of our foes, are only a few of the million joys in

life, amongst which _Ong-Tu-phian_ (Lord Opium) is not the least in

importance; and these blessings have been generously accorded us by

the Lord Buddha himself, and any refusal to participate in them is

indeed rank blasphemy. But be warned that in all things there must be

moderation, and because of our friendship, I would not see you do like

the _Ong-Quan-hai_ (lieutenant) I have already spoken of, for, if his

orderly speaks not lies, this young man smokes one hundred and twenty

pipes each day, which is a great foolishness indeed; for in this way

his pleasure is no longer his servant, to come and go at his bidding,

but rather he has become the slave of his pleasure. Neither is his

case an exception, for nearly all you Western foreigners are alike in

this matter, and ever you go to the extremes. Either you will not touch

the drug--most probably because you are afraid of yourselves--or, if

you once begin, you will increase each day the number of pipes you

smoke, until your pleasure kills you, instead of remaining content with

a moderate use of it."

In speaking thus Tho was but echoing the opinions of his compatriots,

for the inhabitants of Indo-China, like the Chinese, are convinced

of their superiority, so far as intelligence is concerned, over the

European.

Partly from curiosity and also because I was determined to show

this little brown man that I possessed more self-restraint than he

gave me credit for, I consented one evening to make the experiment,

and smoked four pipes. I was rewarded by a most violent headache,

prolonged nausea, and a sleepless night crowded with waking nightmare.

It is hardly necessary to add that I did not repeat the experiment;

and though for some time Tho persisted in telling me that I had not

given the drug a fair trial, he finally dropped the subject. But it is

probable that my inability to partake of his favourite pleasure was to

him another proof of the decided inferiority of the European.

About the middle of June, Lieutenant Deleuze, the intelligence officer

from Thaï-Nguyen, to whom reference was made in a preceding chapter,

came to us to assist in the operations that were going on, for owing

to his knowledge of the vernacular, of the natives and their customs,

he was able to obtain information when others, less gifted, would most

certainly have failed. This officer was also instructed to complete a

new map of the region, for the late expedition had brought to light

the many errors and omissions contained in the former surveys of the

province. My friend Lipthay accompanied the Lieutenant, for he was to

assist in the topographical work.

I was pleased, indeed, to see my friend again, and was happy at being

able to congratulate him on his recent promotion, for he was now a

corporal; and we "wetted his stripes" on the evening of his arrival

with several bottles of good wine. In confidence he informed me that I

was myself to be attached to the intelligence staff of the district;

and, though he disclaimed all knowledge of the cause, I soon found out

that I owed this chance of promotion to his good offices.

I little knew at the time what important changes in my existence this

new departure would bring me, though had I possessed that knowledge it

could hardly have increased my gratitude for the "good turn" my chum

had done me.

For a month I worked with Lieutenant Deleuze, and accompanied the

different reconnaissances and little columns; making rough surveys of

the ground covered, and bringing back the sketches to Nha-Nam, where

they were amplified and checked. During these expeditions I was mounted

on a native pony, and armed with a carbine instead of the longer and

less handy rifle.

My new life was a most agreeable one, for not only did I escape all the

drudgery of fatigue duties in the fort, but when the reconnaissance

with which I might happen to be out, got in touch with the enemy, I

would put away my compass and _planchette_ and do duty as a galloper;

carrying information from the scouts to the commanding officer, and

going back again with orders. My mount was only 11-1/2 hands in height,

so that when I was in the saddle my feet were but a few inches from

the ground, but the animal's pluck, endurance and surefootedness were

extraordinary.

On the 15th July, Lipthay, together with the other members of the

district staff, returned to Thaï-Nguyen. I was left behind, as my

employment had only been a temporary one; but I continued to do

topographical work for our Captain, and was in consequence spared the

ordinary company routine.

Owing to the extreme heat which had now set in, the authorities gave

orders for the suspension of all operations, except in case of great

urgency, so that nothing more exciting went on than an occasional hour

of drill or theoretical instruction. Having failed to capture De-Tam

while it was still possible to move the troops, the authorities were

now obliged to wait for cooler weather.

Within the _réduit_, or little citadel, of our fort, a military

telegraph office had been erected, communicating with Bo-Ha and

Thaï-Nguyen by wire, and with Mo-Trang and Mona-Luong by the

heliograph. Two French operators, a marine and a gunner, were in charge

of the station.

Since I had been detached on special service I had messed with these

two telegraphists, and it was not long before we were the best of

friends. Bougand, the marine, and Gremaire, the gunner, were Parisians

of good family and education; and, thanks to their natural versatility

and wit, we soon found means of introducing a certain amount of fun

into our existence, which helped to relieve the terrible monotony of

life in the fort.

By nailing a damp sheet over a window which gave upon the gun-platform,

and with the aid of a powerful lamp, sometimes used for signalling

at night, we started a shadow theatre. Our troupe and scenery we cut

out of thick cardboard, and we were able to present adaptations of

some of the most popular dramas and comedies of the day, the text and

_mise-en-scène_ of which would have been a startling revelation to the

original authors.

These performances were given twice a week, and lasted from 7.30 till

9 P.M., and our audience was composed of all the Legionaries not on

duty and such of the native troops as cared to attend. There was, of

course, no accommodation for the spectators, who were indeed above such

details; and they contented themselves with standing, or squatting,

upon the hard ground to watch the show. Though some of our audience

saw fit to make rude remarks concerning the tone of voice in which

the feminine _rôles_ were read, the majority were unsparing of their

applause; and the appearance of the silhouettes of such famous artists

as the golden-voiced Sarah or the two Coquelins brought down the house.

Now and again some ready-witted interruption from one of the spectators

would cause the temporary disappearance of the actors from the stage

and a momentary cessation of the performance, for, unable to control

our emotions or continue the dialogue, we would fall on the floor of

the little mat-shed hut, where we would lie convulsed with laughter,

until the noisy public threatened to pull down the house unless we

continued the play.

Success ofttimes breeds foolhardiness, and in an evil hour, finding

that we had exhausted the _répertoire_ our memories offered us, of

plots from the Parisian stage, we decided to draw on local incidents

for the construction of our plays. At first all went well, for such

farces as _The De-Tam's Defeat_, in which that chief, after refusing

the hand of the Governor-General's daughter and a big dowry, died

through incautiously tasting the contents of a tin of bully-beef,

supplied by the Commissariat for the use of the troops, were

successful, and produced no untoward results. But, craving for still

greater popularity, we were foolish enough to put upon our stage

the too transparently caricatured counterpart of one of the senior

non-commissioned officers in the company of native troops, who, though

an excellent soldier, was possessed of many eccentricities. This

veteran resented our impudence, and we were reported and obliged to

suspend our performances.

The instruments were placed in the upper storey of the little telegraph

station, and I was in the habit of sitting upstairs for a couple of

hours each evening with either of my friends who happened to be on

duty. Here we would chat and smoke--for the messages were few and far

between after eight--and while away the time till eleven.

On the evening of 22nd May I was there as usual; Bougand was on

duty, and we had been exchanging opinions concerning the adjutant,

who had succeeded in obtaining the _clôture_ of our theatre, when

our conversation was suddenly interrupted by a call on the Morse

from Thaï-Nguyen. In the middle of the message he was receiving, my

companion gave a sudden whoop of astonishment; though this did not

cause me much emotion, for I was accustomed by now to his pet mania,

which consisted in telling me all sorts of tall stories concerning the

wires he received, and I prepared myself to greet a yarn about the

capture of De-Tam, or my promotion to the much-desired dignity of a

full blown corporal. When the message was finished, and he had rapped

back that he had read the same correctly, he jumped up excitedly, came

over to me and, holding out his hand, shouted:

"_Mon vieux_, I congratulate you!"

"_Blagueur!_" I answered. "Spare me your mouldy joke. It's much too hot

to laugh, so be sensible. Let's take a glass of wine, if any remains in

the bottle, and then I'll go to bed."

"I assure you----" He almost yelled it, but I would not let him go

on, and taunted him with the staleness of the joke he was trying

to play; till, in despair of obtaining a hearing, he rushed over to

the instrument, tore off the band and handed it to me to read. To my

amazement I saw, clearly printed in little blue letters upon the narrow

strip of paper, beyond the possibility of a hoax, the following message:

"_Major--Thaï-Nguyen, to Captain-Commanding Nha-Nam.--Send soldier

Manington by first convoy to Phulang-Thuong, from whence he will

proceed to Bac-Ninh to take service as secretary, Brigade Staff._"

The next few minutes were exciting ones, and it was not until we had

hauled Gremaire from his bed downstairs, communicated the news to him,

and drowned our emotion in a jugful of wine and water, with a lemon cut

up in it, that things began to assume their normal proportions.

I slept but little that night, and lay speculating as to how it was

that fortune had so favoured me, for a berth on the Staff meant

interesting work, extra pay and comfortable quarters; in fact,

a return to partial civilisation. The change carried with it one

drawback, however, which made me hesitate as to whether it would not

be better for me to propose another man in my place, for I knew that

promotion was very slow on the Brigade, the number of "non-coms" there

being limited to three, and I was already somewhat disappointed at not

receiving my "stripes" at the same time as my friend Lipthay; though

this had been owing to the fact that several corporals had been sent

out to the corps with the last batch of troops from Algeria, so that

the vacancies had been few, and only the best had been chosen.

Next morning I was called up to the _rapport_, and after Captain Watrin

had informed me of the order received from our Major, I told him of

my fears; but he would not listen to them at length, and informed me

that I must go: that he was proud that a man from his company had been

chosen, and that I might congratulate myself on my good luck.

"Why, _mon garçon_," he said, "you have only to do your work well

and keep sober--and you will do that, I know, for the honour of the

company--and promotion will come in good time. In two years you will

probably be a sergeant; and then, if you so choose, you will be able to

go to St Maixent (the military school for sergeants who wish to become

officers), and get a commission. Now go to the sergeant-major and get

your _feuille de route_, for you will leave with the convoy to Bo-Ha

to-morrow morning." Then, offering me his hand, this excellent man and

true gentleman said: "Now, good luck to you; and be careful to remember

always that you belong to the Legion, and that the honour of the corps

is yours also."

After packing my kit and getting my papers from the sergeant-major,

who chaffed me good-naturedly by saying that now that I was going

to be on intimate terms with a general, he hoped I would not put on

too much "side," I went round the company to say good-bye. Later I

slipped away to Tho's hut in the native village, and told him of my

coming departure. The little man was evidently chagrined at the news;

nevertheless, he congratulated me most heartily, and made me promise to

write to him, saying, with evident pride, that he was now able to read

a little French, so that, with the aid of one of the native clerks in

the Commissariat Department, he would be able to decipher my letters.

We had a grand dinner that evening in the little telegraph station,

a tin of salmon and several bottles of beer having been purchased to

swell the _menu_ provided by our usual rations.

My friends drank to my success, and I to their health and speedy return

to France; and it was late in the night before I retired to rest for

the last time in the fort which had, with few intervals, been my home

for the past fifteen months.

Several of my comrades were present to bid me "Godspeed" when, early

the next morning, I filed out with the convoy through the gates of our

position.

Together with several sick men, both Legionaries and _tirailleurs_,

who were going down to the hospital, I left Bo-Ha that evening. We

descended the river in _sampans_, and reached Phulang-Thuong next

morning.

On the morning of the 26th July I left for Bac-Ninh with the weekly

convoy to Hanoï which carried the mails. We passed through Dap-Cau

at noon, and arrived at our destination at 2 P.M. The country we

traversed was a big cultivated plain, dotted with villages, with here

and there occasional small groups of low hills.

At Bac-Ninh there is a small citadel, built, no doubt, towards the

end of the eighteenth century by one of the engineers lent by Louis

XVI. to his ally, the Emperor of Annam. It is hexagonal in shape, and

constructed according to the principles of Vauban. Each of its sides

has a frontage of about 1000 yards, and is furnished with numerous

flanking bastions and demi-lunes. There was a company of marines, a

battalion of the 3rd Regiment of _Tirailleurs Tonkinois_, and about

a thousand militia in garrison there. Inside the citadel were the

houses of the General Commanding the 2nd Brigade, the Resident of the

province, the officers' quarters, the barracks of the troops, the Staff

offices, and the lodgings of the soldier-secretary.

On my arrival I reported to the Brigade Major, Captain Michaud, who

sent me on with an orderly to the Intelligence Department, where I was

to be employed.

The chief of this office, Lieutenant Cassier, received me very kindly;

and, after telling one of the secretaries, a marine, to go and show me

where our lodgings were situated, he informed me that I might rest that

afternoon, and come to work the next morning.

I found that I was quartered, together with the other scribes--five

privates and two corporals--in a one-roomed brick building with a

verandah in front, which was situated at the end of the General's

garden, and looked out into the parade ground of the native infantry.

On the other side of this open space, about 300 yards away, were the

buildings occupied by the French marines.

I washed, disposed my kit above the cot which I noted was of the

comfortable pattern in use in Algeria, and went for a stroll into the

town, about a couple of hundred yards outside the fortifications, for I

desired to reconnoitre the surroundings before dinner, which I had been

informed was at 6 P.M.

The little town of Bac-Ninh is situated on the old mandarin road from

Hanoï (the capital of Tonquin) to Lang-son and the Chinese frontier,

about 18 miles from the metropolis. It contains a population of eight

thousand natives, is the capital of the province of the same name, and

has a cathedral, seat of the Spanish bishopric of eastern Tonquin.

Though it is not a manufacturing centre of any importance, its only

local production being silk embroidery work--for which, however, it is

famous--it is considered as one of the principal commercial towns of

the colony, because its markets are a medium of barter or exchange for

objects imported from the surrounding provinces and also from China,

through the frontier towns of Lang-son and Cao-Bang. I wandered through

the narrow streets for an hour or so, and was delighted with the life

and bustle of the little town. It was market day, and the busy throngs

jostled one another as they passed to and fro. The natives are noisy

individuals, and their shrill cries as they hawked their wares or

wrangled over the price of some article for household use--a basket

of rice, yams, or some other comestible--were perfectly bewildering

at first to me; for I had become so used to the silence of the empty

plains and the jungle-covered hills, that even the tiny stir of this

overgrown village produced an impression akin to what an inhabitant of

Exmoor might feel were he suddenly transported to the busiest centre of

London.

I got back in good time to the citadel, for I was anxious not to commit

so serious a breach of etiquette as to make my new comrades await

dinner for me.

I received a hearty welcome from them all, though only one of them,

a lance-corporal, who was working in the general office, belonged to

the Legion: he came from the 2nd Regiment. We sat down to our meal in

a small building close to the offices of the Brigade; and the fare,

which was better than I had been used to at Nha-Nam, and the unexpected

luxuries of china plates, real glasses, a table covered with white

oil-cloth and a punkah, were more than sufficient to reconcile me to

my new surroundings. Owing to the extra pay we drew--about one and

sixpence a day--it was not only possible to keep up a good mess, but,

besides the cook, we were able to maintain a boy, at four _piastres_ a

month--about eight shillings--and this faithful servitor swept out our

quarters, made the beds, cleaned our boots, pipe-clayed our helmets,

and performed a hundred and one other services, which I had become

so used to doing for myself that it was several days before I could

become accustomed to leave the work to him, much to the amusement of

the other secretaries.

The morning after my arrival I rose and dressed at 5.30 A.M., as I had

been used to do in my company; but I got roundly sworn at by the other

occupants of the room for awakening them by my noisy ablutions. The

fault lay with them, however, for they had neglected to inform me that

the office opened at eight, though it was several weeks before I could

accustom myself to lie abed till seven each morning.

I found that my task consisted partly in aiding in the drawing up of

a new map of the Yen-Thé, and partly in clerical and intelligence

work. This last part was the most interesting, for I had to write down

the reports of the different spies attached to the Brigade, and the

depositions of the captured brigands when they were interrogated by the

lieutenant in charge of our office. Besides this, I had to pass an hour

each morning with the Brigade Major, as it was my duty to register all

the correspondence received, the letters and reports being handed over

to me for that purpose by Captain Michaud, as soon as he had perused

them. By this means I became acquainted with everything of interest

that was going on in the colony, so far as rebellion, brigandage and

military operations were concerned; and I had not been long on the

staff before I realised that the little warfare in which my company

had taken a part in the Yen-Thé was but a chapter in the history of a

struggle that was still going on all over the country, outside of the

Delta provinces, between the French on one hand and the Tonquinese

rebels and Chinese bands on the other. Columns were marching, or

being organised, against such chiefs as Luu-Ky, whose powerful gangs

of well-armed plunderers overran the provinces of Quang-Yen, Lam and

Lang-son; the veteran banditti of the quasi-feudal lords, Ba-Ky and

Luong-Tam-Ky, in the districts of Cao-Bang and Ha-Giang, on the higher

reaches of the Red River, and the frontiers of Yunan, Kwang-si and

Kwang-tung; and skirmishes were reported daily by the officers who

commanded the numerous forts and blockhouses, whose garrisons were

continually coming in touch with the bands infesting the mountainous

regions of the colony.

A Soldier of the Legion An Englishman's Adventures Under the French Flag in Algeria and Tonquin · 第 7 / 8 章