A New Rejoicing—Processions—Change in the Valley—The
Odalique’s Grave—The Palace of Eyoub—The State
Apartments—Return to Pera.
A couple of days of rest succeeded to the marriage festivities, and
during that time all the tents which had fringed the height above Dolma
Batchè were transferred to the Valley of the Sweet Waters, whither they
were followed by the tumblers, rope-dancers, and jugglers, who had
delighted the crowd in the purlieus of the Imperial Palace. A new
rejoicing to succeed the bridal fètes; the two younger sons of the
Sultan, and eight thousand children, belonging to every class of the
Turkish population, from the Pashas to the charcoal-venders of the
metropolis and its vicinity, were to be circumcised with much pomp at
Kahaitchana. A temporary building, shaped like a crescent, and capable
of containing the whole number, had been erected above the upper kiosk,
and near the border of the stream, across which a new bridge had been
thrown; the pavilion was lined throughout with rich hangings, and well
cushioned, and presented a very gay and pretty appearance.
The Sultan entertained the Imperial Family at his Palace on the
Barbyses; the Pashas gave daily dinners in their tents; and there was
not an araba in Constantinople or Pera that was not in requisition.
After passing to Eyoub in our caïque, we hired a close araba, in which
we drove to the valley. The scene was a very animated one; lines of
coffee-tents clung to the sides of the heights; groups of women, seated
on their mats, were scattered over the greensward; itinerant
fruit-merchants wandered to and fro, with their strawberries neatly
arranged in small baskets wreathed with oak leaves, and their cherries
heaped in pyramids; mohalibè and yahourt were to be seen on all sides:
the little fountains of the sherbet-venders were tinkling like distant
sheep-bells; and, high above the heads of the crowd, a rope-dancer was
balancing himself in mid-air, with his crimson satin vestment flaring in
the hot sunshine.
One pretty feature in the scene was the constant succession of
scholastic processions; each mosque sending its little troop, headed by
an Imam, to parade the valley, and to chant a prayer for the
preservation of the Sultan’s sons; after which all the children of the
Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Catholic, and Jewish schools, accompanied by
their masters, passed before the Sultan, and shared in the festivities,
to which they had been especially invited. Nor was the appearance of the
Turkish children who assisted at the ceremony less interesting; as they
all, save those belonging to the more distinguished families, who wore a
vast quantity of gold embroidery about their coats and fèzes, were
dressed in a kind of uniform, provided for them by the Sultan; and had
their long hair plaited in innumerable braids, and woven together with
gold threads, sometimes to a quarter of a yard in breadth.
For the first hour I was exceedingly amused. The Barbyses was alive with
caïques—the air was loud with music and laughter—the greensward was
crowded with arabas and idlers; and every shady tree had a colony
beneath its boughs. But I soon wearied of the coil and confusion by
which I was surrounded; the green, fresh, quiet valley had lost all its
charm; I could scarcely recognize my favourite spots; nor was it until
the close of twilight, when the illuminated glories of the port flashed
out like a circle of fire in the distance, that I became reconciled. The
moon silvered over the rippling river; the nightingales were loud in the
Palace gardens; a million of twinkling stars were relieving the deep
blue of the summer sky; while here and there erections of many-coloured
light rose flashing out amid the leafy boughs of the crowd-invaded glen.
Pashas came and went in their noiseless caïques; dulcimers and
tambourines deadened at times the music of the night bird; and the low
wind, which heaved the elastic branches of the water willow, and came
sighing along the ripple of the sweet river, rendered the valley by
night a scene of enchantment.
I wandered to the grave of the Odalique: the moonlight was resting upon
the record-stone; and a nightingale, seated amid the branches of the
overhanging tree, was breathing out its song of mournful melody: it was
far away from the idle throng of revellers, and I was weak enough to be
glad that it was so.
The night was so lovely that we dismissed our araba, and determined on
returning in a caïque as far as the Palace of Eyoub, where I had been
invited by the Princess Azmè to pass the night; but, on arriving there,
we found that the Sultana and the principal ladies of her household had
been detained by the Sultan, and would not return until the following
day.
As, however, I was fearful that the opportunity of seeing this palace
might not recur, from the fact that the Princess never inhabits it save
on occasions of festival at Kahaitchana, when she profits by its
vicinity to the valley, I availed myself of the offer of the
house-steward to show me over the state apartments, which are entirely
unfurnished, but in themselves extremely magnificent. The screen of
light that extended along the whole front of the building cast its glare
through the unshuttered windows, and was reflected back by the gilded
walls and glittering cornices. The decorations throughout are heavy, but
of the greatest richness, and by far the most Oriental in their
character, of any that I had yet seen. The palace was built by Sultan
Selim, and its situation is beautiful. What was formerly the
reception-room of that unfortunate Sovereign, is entirely lined with
gilding, the walls being niched, and overhung with stalactited cornices
similar to those which decorate many of our old cathedral tombs; and the
weight of this elaborate ornament is relieved by a ceiling of faint
blue, sprinkled with silver stars. But the absence of furniture, and the
vast extent of the building, gave an air of desolation and discomfort to
its whole appearance, which even the well-matted and curtained rooms
that had been temporarily fitted-up for the use of the Sultana’s harem
failed to overcome: and, consequently, when I had satisfied my
curiosity, I pleaded the absence of Her Highness, and those individuals
of her suite with whom I was acquainted, as my apology for not availing
myself of her flattering invitation; and, reentering-our caïque, we
dashed out into the centre of the port; and after contemplating for a
time its temporary glories, were landed at the Echelle des Morts, and,
passing along beneath the moon-touched and sighing cypresses of the
grave-yard, soon found ourselves at Pera.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] As an example of the morals of the Greek clergy, it may not
be impertinent to mention that this house was bequeathed by the
Archbishop of Dercon, who died a few months ago at Therapia, to
Hesterine, _la dame de ses pensées_.
[2] Signifying mistress, or lady.
[3] Mihirmàh, the glory of the moon.
[4] The fact of the Patriarch being not only the head of the
church, but also the chief magistrate of his nation, will
account for the proximity of the prison to the Episcopal
Palace.
[5] I am aware that I may here be taxed with an anachronism,
and reminded that in the days of Mahomet the use of tobacco was
altogether unknown in Turkey; but I, nevertheless, maintain my
position, being perfectly convinced that the Hourii would now
beckon in vain to a paradise of which the chibouk did not form
a feature.
[6] The height of the mosque to the summit of the dome is 185
French feet; the dome itself, from the gallery to the leads,
47, and its diameter, 54.
[7] Mignionette.
END OF VOL I.
LONDON:
F. SHOBERL, JUN., LEICESTER STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE.