I saw a sudden swirl in the crowd of heads beneath the church steps, and

then a great shaking ran through the crowd; but there for a few instants

it boiled like a pot. A sudden cry had broken out, and it ran through

the whole space; waxing in volume as it ran, till the heads beneath my

window shook with it also; hands clapped, voices shouted: "_Un miracle!

Un miracle!_"

I was on my feet, staring and crying out. Then quietly the shaking

ceased, and the shouting died to a murmur; and the _ombrellino_ moved

on; and again the voice of the priest thrilled thin and clear, with a

touch of triumphant thankfulness: "_Vous etes la Resurrection et la

Vie!_" And again, with entreaty once more--since there still were two

thousand sick untouched by that Power, and time pressed--that infinitely

moving plea: "_Seigneur, celui qui vous aime est malade!_" And:

"_Seigneur, faites que je marche! Seigneur, faites que j'entende!_"

And then again the finger of God flashed down, and again and again; and

each time a sick and broken body sprang from its bed of pain and stood

upright; and the crowd smiled and roared and sobbed. Five times I saw

that swirl and rush; the last when the _Te Deum_ pealed out from the

church steps as Jesus in His Sacrament came home again. And there were

two that I did not see. There were seven in all that afternoon.

Now, is it of any use to comment on all this? I am not sure; and yet,

for my own satisfaction if for no one else's, I wish to set down some of

the thoughts that came to me both then and after I had sat at the window

and seen God's loving-kindness with my own eyes.

The first overwhelming impression that remained with me is this--that I

had been present, in my own body, in the twentieth century, and seen

Jesus pass along by the sick folk, as He passed two thousand years

before. That, in a word, is the supreme fact of Lourdes. More than once

as I sat there that afternoon I contrasted the manner in which I was

spending it with that in which the average believing Christian spends

Sunday afternoon. As a child, I used to walk with my father, and he used

to read and talk on religious subjects; on our return we used to have a

short Bible-class in his study. As an Anglican clergyman, I used to

teach in Sunday schools or preach to children. As a Catholic priest, I

used occasionally to attend at catechism. At all these times the

miraculous seemed singularly far away; we looked at it across twenty

centuries; it was something from which lessons might be drawn, upon

which the imagination might feed, but it was a state of affairs as

remote as the life of prehistoric man; one assented to it, and that was

all. And here at Lourdes it was a present, vivid event. I sat at an

ordinary glass window, in a soutane made by an English tailor, with

another Englishman beside me, and saw the miraculous happen. Time and

space disappeared; the centuries shrank and vanished; and behold we saw

that which "prophets and kings have desired to see and have not seen!"

Of course "scientific" arguments, of the sort which I have related, can

be brought forward in an attempt to explain Lourdes; but they are the

same arguments that can be, and are, brought forward against the

miracles of Jesus Christ Himself. I say nothing to those here; I leave

that to scientists such as Dr. Boissarie; but what I cannot understand

is that professing Christians are able to bring _a priori_ arguments

against the fact that Our Lord is the same yesterday, to-day, and for

ever--the same in Galilee and in France. "These signs shall follow them

that believe," He said Himself; and the history of the Catholic Church

is an exact fulfilment of the words. It was so, St. Augustine tells us,

at the tombs of the martyrs; five hundred miracles were reported at

Canterbury within a few years of St. Thomas' martyrdom. And now here is

Lourdes, as it has been for fifty years, in this little corner of poor

France!

I have been asked since my return: "Why cannot miracles be done in

England?" My answer is, firstly, that they are done in England, in

Liverpool, and at Holywell, for example; secondly, I answer by another

question as to why Jesus Christ was not born in Rome; and if He had been

born in Rome, why not in Nineveh and Jerusalem? Thirdly, I answer that

perhaps more would be done in England, if there were more faith there.

It is surely a little unreasonable to ask that, in a country which

three hundred and fifty years ago deliberately repudiated Christ's

Revelation of Himself, banished the Blessed Sacrament and tore down

Mary's shrines, Christ and His Mother should cooperate supernaturally in

marvels that are rather the rewards of the faithful. "It is not meet to

take the children's bread and to cast it to the dogs"--these are the

words of our Lord Himself. If London is not yet tolerant enough to allow

an Eucharistic Procession in her streets, she is scarcely justified in

demanding that our Eucharistic Lord should manifest His power. "He could

do no mighty work there," says the Evangelist, of Capharnaum, "because

of their unbelief."

This, then, is the supreme fact of Lourdes: that Jesus Christ in His

Sacrament passes along that open square, with the sick laid in beds on

either side; and that at His word the lame walk and lepers are cleansed

and deaf hear--that they are seen leaping and dancing for joy.

Even now, writing within ten days of my return, all seems like a dream;

and yet I know that I saw it. For over thirty years I had been

accustomed to repeat the silly formula that "the age of miracles is

past"; that they were necessary for the establishment of Christianity,

but that they are no longer necessary now, except on extremely rare

occasions perhaps; and in my heart I knew my foolishness. Why, for those

thirty years Lourdes had been in existence! And if I spoke of it at all,

I spoke only of hysteria and auto-suggestion and French imaginativeness,

and the rest of the nonsense. It is impossible for a Christian who has

been at Lourdes to speak like that again.

And as for the unreality, that does not trouble me. I have no doubt that

those who saw the bandages torn from the leper's limbs and the sound

flesh shown beneath, or the once blind man, his eyes now dripping with

water of Siloe, looking on Him who had made him whole, or heard the

marvellous talk of "men like trees walking," and the rest--I have no

doubt that ten days later they sat themselves with unseeing eyes, and

wondered whether it was indeed they who had witnessed those things.

Human nature, like a Leyden jar, cannot hold beyond a fixed quantity;

and this human nature, with experience, instincts, education, common

talk, public opinion, and all the rest of it, echoing round it; the

assumption that miracles _do not happen_; that laws are laws; in other

words, that Deism is the best that can be hoped--well, it is little

wonder that the visible contradiction of all this conventionalism finds

but little room in the soul.

Then there is another point that I should like to make in the presence

of "Evangelical" Christians who shake their heads over Mary's part in

the matter. It is this--that for every miracle that takes place in the

_piscines_, I should guess that a dozen take place while That which we

believe to be Jesus Christ goes by. Catholics, naturally, need no such

reassurance; they know well enough from interior experience that when

Mary comes forward Jesus does not retire! But for those who think as

some Christians do, it is necessary to point out the facts. And again. I

have before me as I write the little card of ejaculations that are used

in the procession. There are twenty-four in all. Of these, twenty-one

are addressed to Jesus Christ; in two more we ask the "Mother of the

Saviour" and the "Health of the Sick" to pray for us; in the last we ask

her to "show herself a Mother." If people will talk of "proportion" in a

matter in which there is no such thing--since there can be no

comparison, without grave irreverence, between the Creator and a

creature--I would ask, Is there "disproportion" here?

In fact, Lourdes, as a whole, is an excellent little compendium of

Catholic theology and Gospel-truth. There was once a marriage feast, and

the Mother of Jesus was there with her Son. There was no wine. She told

her Son what He already knew; He seemed to deprecate her words; but He

obeyed them, and the water became wine.

There is at Lourdes not a marriage feast, but something very like a

deathbed. The Mother of Jesus is there with her Son. It is she again who

takes the initiative. "Here is water," she seems to say; "dig,

Bernadette, and you will find it." But it is no more than water. Then

she turns to her Son. "They have water," she says, "but no more." And

then He comes forth in His power. "Draw out now from all the sick beds

of the world and bear them to the Governor of the Feast. Use the

commonest things in the world--physical pain and common water. Bring

them together, and wait until I pass by." Then Jesus of Nazareth passes

by; and the sick leap from their beds, and the blind see, and the lepers

are cleansed, and devils are cast out.

Oh, yes! the parallel halts; but is it not near enough?

_Seigneur, guerissez nos malades!_

_Salut des Infirmes, priez pour nous!_

VIII.

The moment Benediction was given, the room began rapidly to fill; but I

still watched the singing crowd outside. Among others I noticed a woman,

placid and happy--such a woman as you would see a hundred times a day in

London streets, with jet ornaments in her hat, middle-aged, almost

startlingly commonplace. No, nothing dramatic happened to her; that was

the point. But there she was, taking it all for granted, joining in the

_Magnificat_ with a roving eye, pleased as she would have been pleased

at a circus; interrupting herself to talk to her neighbour; and all the

while gripping in a capable hand, on which shone a wedding ring, the

bars of the Bureau window behind which I sat, that she might make the

best of both worlds--Grace without and Science within. She, as I, had

seen what God had done; now she proposed to see what the doctors would

make of it all; and have, besides, a good view of the _miracules_ when

they appeared.

I suppose it was her astonishing ordinariness that impressed me. It was

surprising to see such a one during such a scene; it was as incongruous

as a man riding a bicycle on the judgment Day. Yet she, too, served to

make it all real. She was like the real tree in the foreground of a

panorama. She served the same purpose as the _Voix de Lourdes_, a

briskly written French newspaper that gives the lists of the miracles.

When I turned round at last, the room was full. Among the people present

I remember an Hungarian canon, and the Brazilian Bishop with six others.

Dr. Deschamps, late of Lille, now of Paris, was in the chair; and I sat

next him.

The first patient to enter was Euphrasie Bosc, a dark girl of

twenty-seven. She rolled a little in her walk as she came in; then she

sat down and described the "white swellings" on her knee, with other

details; she told how she had been impelled to rise during the

procession just now. She was made to walk round the room to show her

state, and was then sent off, and told to return at another time.

Next came Emma Sansen, a pale girl of twenty-five. She had suffered from

endo-pericarditis for five years, as her certificate showed; she had

been confined to her room for two years. She told her story quickly and

went out.

There followed Sister Marguerite Emilie, an Assumptionist, aged

thirty-nine, a brisk, brown-faced, tall woman, in her religious habit.

Her malady had been _mal de Pott_, a severe spinal affliction,

accompanied by abscesses and other horrors. She, too, appeared in the

best of health.

We began then to hear a doctor give news of a certain Irish Religious,

cured that morning in the _piscines_; but we were interrupted by the

entry of Emile Lansman, a solid artisan of twenty-five who came in

walking cheerfully, carrying a crutch and a stick which he no longer

needed. Paralysis of the right leg and traumatism of the spine had been

his, up to that day. Now he carried his crutch.

He was followed by another man whose name I did not catch, and on whose

case I wrote so rapidly that I am scarcely able to read all my notes.

His story, in brief, was as follows. He had had some while ago a severe

accident, which involved a kind of appalling disembowelment. For the

last year or two he had had gastric troubles of all kinds, including

complete loss of appetite. His certificate showed too, that he suffered

from partial paralysis (he himself showed us how little he had been able

to open his fingers), and anaesthesia of the right arm. (I looked over

Dr. Deschamps' shoulder and read on the paper the words _lesion

incurable_). It was certified further that he was incapable of manual

work. Then he described to us how yesterday in the _piscine_, upon

coming out of the bath, he had been aware of a curious sensation of

warmth in the stomach; he had then found that, for the first time for

many months, he wished for food; he was given it, and he enjoyed it. He

moved his fingers in a normal manner, raised his arm and let it fall.

Then for the first time in the Bureau I heard a sharp controversy. One

doctor suddenly broke out, saying that there was no actual proof that it

was not all "hysterical simulation." Another answered him; an appeal was

made to the certificate. Then the first doctor delivered a little

speech, in excellent taste, though casting doubt upon the case; and the

matter was then set aside for investigation with the rest. I heard Dr.

Boissarie afterwards thank him for his admirable little discourse.

Finally, though it was getting late, Honorie Gras, aged thirty-five,

came in to give her evidence. She had suffered till to-day from

"purulent arthritis" and "white swellings" on the left knee. To-day she

walked. Her certificate confirmed her, and she was dismissed.

It was all very matter-of-fact. There is no reason to fear that Lourdes

is all hymn-singing and adjurations. It is a pleasure to think that, on

the right of the Rosary Church, and within a hundred yards of the

Grotto, there is this little room, filled with keen-eyed doctors from

every school of faith and science, who have only to present their cards

and be made free of all that Lourdes has to show. They are keen-brained

as well as keen-eyed. I heard one of them say quietly that if the Mother

of God, as it appeared, cured incurable cases, it was hard to deny to

her the power of curing curable cases also. It does not prove, that is

to say, that a cure is not miraculous, if it might have been cured by

human aid. And it is interesting and suggestive to remember that of such

cases one hears little or nothing. For every startling miracle that is

verified in the Bureau, I wonder how many persons go home quietly, freed

from some maddening little illness by the mercy of Mary--some illness

that is worthless as a "case" in scientific eyes, yet none the less as

real as is its cure?

Of course one element that tends to keep from the grasp of the

imagination all the miracles of the place is all this scientific

phraseology. In the simple story of the Gospel, it seems almost

supernaturally natural that a man should have "lain with an infirmity

for forty years," and should, at the word of Jesus Christ, have taken up

his bed and walked; or that, as in the "Acts," another's "feet and

ankle-bones should receive strength" by the power of the Holy Name. But

when we come to tuberculosis and _mal de Pott_ and _lesion incurable_

and "hysterical simulation," in some manner we seem to find ourselves in

rather a breathless and stuffy room, where the white flower of the

supernatural appears strangely languid to the eye of the imagination.

That, however, is all as it should be. We are bound to have these

things. Perhaps the most startling miracle of all is that the Bureau and

the Grotto stand side by side, and that neither stifles the other. Is it

possible that here at last Science and Religion will come to terms, and

each confess with wonder the capacities of the other, and, with awe,

that divine power that makes them what they are, and has "set them their

bounds which they shall not pass?" It would be remarkable if France, of

all countries, should be the scene of that reconciliation between these

estranged sisters.

That night, after dinner, I went out once more to see the procession

with torches; and this time my friend and I each took a candle, that we

might join in that act of worship. First, however, I went down to the

_robinets_--the taps which flow between the Grotto and the

_piscines_--and, after a heartcrushing struggle, succeeded in filling my

bottle with the holy water. It was astonishing how selfish one felt

while still in the battle, and how magnanimous when one had gained the

victory. I filled also the bottle of a voluble French priest, who

despairingly extended it toward me as he still fought in the turmoil.

"_Eh, bien!_" cried a stalwart Frenchwoman at my side, who had filled

her bottle and could not extricate herself. "If you will not permit me

to depart, I remain!" The argument was irresistible; the crowd laughed

childishly and let her out.

Now, I regret to say that once more the churches were outlined in fairy

electric lamps, that the metallic garlands round our Mother's statue

blazed with them; that, even worse, the old castle on the hill and the

far away Calvary were also illuminated; and, worst of all, that the

procession concluded with fireworks--rockets and bombs. Miracles in the

afternoon; fireworks in the evening!

Yet the more I think of it, the less am I displeased. When one reflects

that more than half of the enormous crowd came, probably, from tiny

villages in France--where a rocket is as rare as an angelic visitation;

and, on the carnal side, as beautiful in their eyes--it seems a very

narrow-minded thing to object. It is true that you and I connect

fireworks with Mafeking night or Queen Victoria's Jubilee; and that they

seem therefore incongruous when used to celebrate a visitation of God.

But it is not so with these people. For them it is a natural and

beautiful way of telling the glory of Him who is the Dayspring from on

high, who is the Light to lighten the Gentiles, whose Mother is the

_Stella Matutina_, whose people once walked in darkness and now have

seen a great Light. It is their answer--the reflection in the depths of

their sea--to the myriad lights of that heaven which shines over

Lourdes. Therefore let us leave the fireworks in peace.

It was a very moving thing to walk in that procession, with a candle in

one hand and a little paper book in the other, and help to sing the

story of Bernadette, with the unforgettable _Aves_ at the end of each

verse, and the _Laudate Mariam_, and the Nicene Creed. _Credo in ...

unam sanctam Catholicam et Apostolicam Ecclesiam._ My heart leaped at

that. For where else but in the Catholic Church do such things happen as

these that I had seen? Imagine, if you please, miracles in Manchester!

Certainly they might happen there, if there were sufficient Catholics

gathered in His Name; but put for Manchester, Exeter Hall or St. Paul's

Cathedral! The thought is blindingly absurd. No; the Christianity of

Jesus Christ lives only in the Catholic Church.

There alone in the whole round world do you find that combination of

lofty doctrine, magnificent moral teaching, the frank recognition of the

Cross; sacramentalism logically carried out, yet gripping the heart as

no amateur mysticism can do; and miracles. "Mercy and Truth have met

together." "These signs shall follow them that believe.... Faith can

remove mountains.... All things are possible to him that believes....

Whatsoever you shall ask of the Father in My Name.... Where two or three

are gathered together in My Name, there am I in the midst of them."

There alone, where souls are built upon Peter, do these things really

happen.

I have been asked lately whether I am "happy" in the Catholic Church.

Happy! What can one say to a question like that? Does one ask a man who

wakes up from a foolish dream to sunshine in his room, and to life and

reality, whether he is happy? Of course many non-Catholics are happy. I

was happy myself as an Anglican; but as a Catholic one does not use the

word; one does not think about it. The whole of life is different; that

is all that can be said. Faith is faith, not hope; God is Light, not

twilight; eternity, heaven, hell, purgatory, sin and its

consequences--these things are facts, not guesses and conjectures and

suspicions desperately clung to. "How hard it is to be a Christian!"

moans the persevering non-Catholic. "How impossible it is to be anything

else!" cries the Catholic.

We went round, then, singing. The procession was so huge that it seemed

to have no head and no tail. It involved itself a hundred times over; it

swirled in the square, it humped itself over the Rosary Church; it

elongated itself half a mile away up beyond our Mother's garlanded

statue; it eddied round the Grotto. It was one immense pool and river of

lights and song. Each group sang by itself till it was overpowered by

another; men and women and children strolled along patiently singing and

walking, knowing nothing of where they went, nothing of what they would

be singing five minutes hence. It depended on the voice-power of their

neighbours.

For myself, I found myself in a dozen groups, before, at last, after an

hour or so, I fell out of the procession and went home. Now I walked

cheek by jowl with a retired officer; now with an artisan; once there

came swiftly up behind a company of "Noelites"--those vast organizations

of boys and girls in France--singing the _Laudate Mariam_ to my _Ave

Maria_; now in the middle of a group of shop-girls who exchanged remarks

with one another whenever they could fetch breath. I think it was all

the most joyous and the most spontaneous (as it was certainly the

largest) human function in which I have ever taken part. I have no idea

whether there were any organizers of it all--at least I saw none. Once

or twice a solitary priest in the midst, walking backward and waving

his arms, attempted to reconcile conflicting melodies; once a very old

priest; with a voice like the tuba stop on the organ, turned a

humorously furious face over his shoulder to quell some mistake--from

his mouth, the while issuing this amazingly pungent volume of sound. But

I think these were the only attempts at organization that I saw.

And so at last I dropped out and went home, hoarse but very well

content. I had walked for more than an hour--from the statue, over the

lower church and down again, up the long avenue, and back again to the

statue. The fireworks were over, the illuminations died, and the day was

done; yet still the crowds went round and the voice of conflicting

melody went up without cessation. As I went home the sound was still in

my ears. As I dropped off to sleep, I still heard it.

IX.

Next morning I awoke with a heavy heart, for we were to leave in the

motor at half-past eight, I had still a few errands to do, and had made

no arrangements for saying Mass; so I went out quickly, a little after

seven, and up to the Rosary Church to get some pious objects blessed. It

was useless: I could not find the priest of whom I had been told, whose

business it is perpetually to bless such things. I went to the basilica,

then round by the hill-path down to the Grotto, where I became wedged

suddenly and inextricably into a silent crowd.

For a while I did not understand what they were doing beyond hearing

Mass; for I knew that, of course, a Mass was proceeding just round the

corner in the cave. But presently I perceived that these were intending

communicants. So I made what preparation I could, standing there; and

thanked God and His Mother for this unexpected opportunity of saying

good-bye in the best way--for I was as sad as a school-boy going the

rounds of the house on Black Monday--and after a quarter of an hour or

so I was kneeling at the grill, beneath the very image of Mary. After

making my thanksgiving, still standing on the other side, I blessed the

objects myself--strictly against all rules, I imagine--and came home to

breakfast; and before nine we were on our way.

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