CHAPTER LXIX.

THE COCOA-PALM

While the doctor and the natives were taking a digestive nap after

dinner, I strolled forth to have a peep at the country which could

produce so generous a meal.

To my surprise, a fine strip of land in the vicinity of the hamlet, and

protected seaward by a grove of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, was

under high cultivation. Sweet potatoes, Indian turnips, and yams were

growing; also melons, a few pine-apples, and other fruits. Still more

pleasing was the sight of young bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees set out

with great care, as if, for once, the improvident Polynesian had

thought of his posterity. But this was the only instance of native

thrift which ever came under my observation. For, in all my rambles

over Tahiti and Imeeo, nothing so much struck me as the comparative

scarcity of these trees in many places where they ought to abound.

Entire valleys, like Martair, of inexhaustible fertility are abandoned

to all the rankness of untamed vegetation. Alluvial flats bordering the

sea, and watered by streams from the mountains, are over-grown with a

wild, scrub guava-bush, introduced by foreigners, and which spreads

with such fatal rapidity that the natives, standing still while it

grows, anticipate its covering the entire island. Even tracts of clear

land, which, with so little pains, might be made to wave with orchards,

lie wholly neglected.

When I considered their unequalled soil and climate, thus unaccountably

slighted, I often turned in amazement upon the natives about Papeetee;

some of whom all but starve in their gardens run to waste. Upon other

islands which I have visited, of similar fertility, and wholly

unreclaimed from their first-discovered condition, no spectacle of this

sort was presented.

The high estimation in which many of their fruit-trees are held by the

Tahitians and Imeeose—their beauty in the landscape—their manifold

uses, and the facility with which they are propagated, are

considerations which render the remissness alluded to still more

unaccountable. The cocoa-palm is as an example; a tree by far the most

important production of Nature in the Tropics. To the Polynesians it is

emphatically the Tree of Life; transcending even the bread-fruit in the

multifarious uses to which it is applied.

Its very aspect is imposing. Asserting its supremacy by an erect and

lofty bearing, it may be said to compare with other trees as man with

inferior creatures.

The blessings it confers are incalculable. Year after year, the

islander reposes beneath its shade, both eating and drinking of its

fruit; he thatches his hut with its boughs, and weaves them into

baskets to carry his food; he cools himself with a fan platted from the

young leaflets, and shields his head from the sun by a bonnet of the

leaves; sometimes he clothes himself with the cloth-like substance

which wraps round the base of the stalks, whose elastic rods, strung

with filberts, are used as a taper; the larger nuts, thinned and

polished, furnish him with a beautiful goblet: the smaller ones, with

bowls for his pipes; the dry husks kindle his fires; their fibres are

twisted into fishing-lines and cords for his canoes; he heals his

wounds with a balsam compounded from the juice of the nut; and with the

oil extracted from its meat embalms the bodies of the dead.

The noble trunk itself is far from being valueless. Sawn into posts, it

upholds the islander’s dwelling; converted into charcoal, it cooks his

food; and supported on blocks of stone, rails in his lands. He impels

his canoe through the water with a paddle of the wood, and goes to

battle with clubs and spears of the same hard material.

In pagan Tahiti a cocoa-nut branch was the symbol of regal authority.

Laid upon the sacrifice in the temple, it made the offering sacred; and

with it the priests chastised and put to flight the evil spirits which

assailed them. The supreme majesty of Oro, the great god of their

mythology, was declared in the cocoa-nut log from which his image was

rudely carved. Upon one of the Tonga Islands, there stands a living

tree revered itself as a deity. Even upon the Sandwich Islands, the

cocoa-palm retains all its ancient reputation; the people there having

thought of adopting it as the national emblem.

The cocoa-nut is planted as follows: Selecting a suitable place, you

drop into the ground a fully ripe nut, and leave it. In a few days, a

thin, lance-like shoot forces itself through a minute hole in the

shell, pierces the husk, and soon unfolds three pale-green leaves in

the air; while originating, in the same soft white sponge which now

completely fills the nut, a pair of fibrous roots, pushing away the

stoppers which close two holes in an opposite direction, penetrate the

shell, and strike vertically into the ground. A day or two more, and

the shell and husk, which, in the last and germinating stage of the

nut, are so hard that a knife will scarcely make any impression,

spontaneously burst by some force within; and, henceforth, the hardy

young plant thrives apace; and needing no culture, pruning, or

attention of any sort, rapidly advances to maturity. In four or five

years it bears; in twice as many more, it begins to lift its head among

the groves, where, waxing strong, it flourishes for near a century.

Thus, as some voyager has said, the man who but drops one of these nuts

into the ground may be said to confer a greater and more certain

benefit upon himself and posterity than many a life’s toil in less

genial climes.

The fruitfulness of the tree is remarkable. As long as it lives it

bears, and without intermission. Two hundred nuts, besides innumerable

white blossoms of others, may be seen upon it at one time; and though a

whole year is required to bring any one of them to the germinating

point, no two, perhaps, are at one time in precisely the same stage of

growth.

The tree delights in a maritime situation. In its greatest perfection,

it is perhaps found right on the seashore, where its roots are actually

washed. But such instances are only met with upon islands where the

swell of the sea is prevented from breaking on the beach by an

encircling reef. No saline flavour is perceptible in the nut produced

in such a place. Although it bears in any soil, whether upland or

bottom, it does not flourish vigorously inland; and I have frequently

observed that, when met with far up the valley, its tall stem inclines

seaward, as if pining after a more genial region.

It is a curious fact that if you deprive the cocoa-nut tree of the

verdant tuft at its head, it dies at once; and if allowed to stand

thus, the trunk, which, when alive, is encased in so hard a bark as to

be almost impervious to a bullet, moulders away, and, in an incredibly

short period, becomes dust. This is, perhaps, partly owing to the

peculiar constitution of the trunk, a mere cylinder of minute hollow

reeds, closely packed, and very hard; but, when exposed at top,

peculiarly fitted to convey moisture and decay through the entire stem.

The finest orchard of cocoa-palms I know, and the only plantation of

them I ever saw at the islands, is one that stands right upon the

southern shore of Papeetee Bay. They were set out by the first Pomaree,

almost half a century ago; and the soil being especially adapted to

their growth, the noble trees now form a magnificent grove, nearly a

mile in extent. No other plant, scarcely a bush, is to be seen within

its precincts. The Broom Road passes through its entire length.

At noonday, this grove is one of the most beautiful, serene, witching

places that ever was seen. High overhead are ranges of green rustling

arches; through which the sun’s rays come down to you in sparkles. You

seem to be wandering through illimitable halls of pillars; everywhere

you catch glimpses of stately aisles, intersecting each other at all

points. A strange silence, too, reigns far and near; the air flushed

with the mellow stillness of a sunset.

But after the long morning calms, the sea-breeze comes in; and creeping

over the tops of these thousand trees, they nod their plumes. Soon the

breeze freshens; and you hear the branches brushing against each other;

and the flexible trunks begin to sway. Toward evening the whole grove

is rocking to and fro; and the traveller on the Broom Road is startled

by the frequent falling of the nuts, snapped from their brittle stems.

They come flying through the air, ringing like jugglers’ balls; and

often bound along the ground for many rods.

Omoo: Adventures in the South Seas · 第 31 / 44 章