FRENCH AND ENGLISH IN THE PASSES

"Beating from the wasted vines

Back to France her banded swarms,

Back to France with countless blows,

Till o'er the hills her eagles flew

Beyond the Pyrenean pines;

Follow'd up in valley and glen

With blare of bugle, clamour of men,

Roll of cannon and clash of arms,

And England pouring on her foes.

Such a war had such a close."

--TENNYSON.

"In both the passes, and on the heights above them, there was desperate

fighting. They fought on the mountain-tops, which could scarcely have

witnessed any other combat than that of the Pyrenean eagles; they

fought among jagged rocks and over profound abysses; they fought amidst

clouds and mists, for those mountain-tops were 5000 feet above the

level of the plain of France, and the rains, which had fallen in

torrents, were evaporating in the morning and noon-day sun, were

steaming heavenward and clothing the loftiest peaks with fantastic

wreaths." These words describe, with picturesque force, the most

brilliant and desperate, and yet, perhaps, the least known chapter in

the great drama of the Peninsular war: the furious combats waged

between British and French in the gloomy valleys and on the

mist-shrouded summits of the Western Pyrenees. The great campaign,

which found its climax at Vittoria, lasted six weeks. In that brief

period Wellington marched with 100,000 men 600 miles, passed six great

rivers, gained one historic and decisive battle, invested two

fortresses, and drove 120,000 veteran troops from Spain. There is no

more brilliant chapter in military history; and, at its close, to quote

Napier's clarion-like sentences, "the English general, emerging from

the chaos of the Peninsular struggle, stood on the summit of the

Pyrenees a recognised conqueror. From those lofty pinnacles the

clangour of his trumpets pealed clear and loud, and the splendour of

his genius appeared as a flaming beacon to warring nations."

But the great barrier of the Pyrenees stretched across Wellington's

path, a tangle of mountains sixty miles in length; a wild table-land

rough with crags, fierce with mountain torrents, shaggy with forests, a

labyrinth of savage and snow-clad hills. On either flank a great

fortress--San Sebastian and Pampeluna--was held by the French, and

Wellington was besieging both at once, and besieging them without

battering trains. The echoes of Vittoria had aroused Napoleon, then

fighting desperately on the Elbe, and ten days after Vittoria the

French Emperor, acting with the lightning-like decision characteristic

of his genius, had despatched Soult, the ablest of all his generals, to

bar the passes of the Pyrenees against Wellington. Soult travelled day

and night to the scene of his new command, gathering reinforcements on

every side as he went, and in an incredibly short period he had

assembled on the French side of the Pyrenees a great and perfectly

equipped force of 75,000 men.

Wellington could not advance and leave San Sebastian and Pampeluna on

either flank held by the enemy. Some eight separate passes pierce the

giant chain of the Pyrenees. Soult was free to choose any one of them

for his advance to the relief of either of the besieged fortresses, but

Wellington had to keep guard over the whole eight, and the force

holding each pass was almost completely isolated from its comrades.

Thus all the advantages of position were with Soult. He could pour his

whole force through one or two selected passes, brush aside the

relatively scanty force which held it, relieve San Sebastian or

Pampeluna, and, with the relieved fortress as his base, fling himself

on Wellington's flank while the allied armies were scattered over the

slopes of the Pyrenees for sixty miles. And Soult was exactly the

general to avail himself of these advantages. He had the swift vision,

the resolute will, and the daring of a great commander. "It is on

Spanish soil," he said in a proclamation to his troops, "your tents

must next be pitched. Let the account of our successes be dated from

Vittoria, and let the fête-day of his Imperial Majesty be celebrated in

that city." These were brave words, and having uttered them, Soult led

his gallant troops, with gallant purpose, into the gloomy passes of the

Pyrenees, and for days following the roar of battle sank and swelled

over the snow-clad peaks. But when the Imperial fête-day

arrived--August 15--Soult's great army was pouring back from those same

passes a shattered host, and the allied troops, sternly following them,

were threatening French soil!

Soult judged Pampeluna to be in greater peril than San Sebastian, and

moved by his left to force the passes of Roncesvalles and Maya. The

rain fell furiously, the mountain streams were in flood, gloomy mists

shrouded the hill-tops; but by July 24, with more than 60,000 fighting

men, and nearly seventy guns, Soult was pouring along the passes he had

chosen. It is impossible to do more than pick out a few of the purple

patches in the swift succession of heroic combats that followed: fights

waged on mountain summits 5000 feet above the sea-level, in shaggy

forests, under tempests of rain and snow. D'Erlon, with a force of

20,000 men, took the British by surprise in the pass of Maya. Ross, an

eager and hardy soldier, unexpectedly encountering the French advance

guard, instantly shouted the order to "Charge!" and with a handful of

the 20th flung himself upon the enemy, and actually checked their

advance until Cole, who had only 10,000 bayonets to oppose to 30,000,

had got into fighting form. A thick fog fell like a pall on the

combatants, and checked the fight, and Cole, in the night, fell back.

The French columns were in movement at daybreak, but still the fog hid

the whole landscape, and the guides of the French feared to lead them

up the slippery crags. At Maya, however, the French in force broke

upon Stewart's division, holding that pass. The British regiments, as

they came running up, not in mass, but by companies, and breathless

with the run, were flung with furious haste upon the French. The 34th,

the 39th, the 28th in succession crashed into the fight, but were flung

back by overpowering numbers. It was a battle of 4000 men against

13,000.

The famous 50th, fiercely advancing, checked the French rush at one

point; but Soult's men were full of the _élan_ of victory, and swept

past the British flanks. The 71st and 92nd were brought into the

fight, and the latter especially clung sternly to their position till

two men out of every three were shot down, the mound of dead and dying

forming a solid barrier between the wasted survivors of the regiment

and the shouting edge of the French advance. "The stern valour of the

92nd," says Napier, "principally composed of Irishmen, would have

graced Thermopylae." No one need question the fighting quality of the

Irish soldier, but, as a matter of fact, there were 825 Highlanders in

the regiment, and 61 Irishmen. The British, however, were steadily

pushed back, ammunition failed, and the soldiers were actually

defending the highest crag with stones, when Barnes, with a brigade of

the seventh division, coming breathlessly up the pass, plunged into the

fight, and checked the French. Soult had gained ten of the thirty

miles of road toward Pampeluna, but at an ominous cost, and, meanwhile,

the plan of his attack was developed, and Wellington was in swift

movement to bar his path.

Soult had now swung into the pass of Roncesvalles, and was on the point

of attacking Cole, who held the pass with a very inadequate force,

when, at that exact moment, Wellington, having despatched his aides in

various directions to bring up the troops, galloped alone along the

mountain flank to the British line. He was recognised; the nearest

troops raised a shout; it ran, gathering volume as it travelled down

all the slope, where the British stood waiting for the French attack.

That sudden shout, stern and exultant, reached the French lines, and

they halted. At the same moment, round the shoulder of the hill on the

opposite side of the pass, Soult appeared, and the two generals, near

enough to see each other's features, eagerly scrutinised one another.

"Yonder is a great commander," said Wellington, as if speaking to

himself, "but he is cautious, and will delay his attack to ascertain

the cause of these cheers. That will give time for the sixth division

to arrive, and I shall beat him." Wellington's forecast of Soult's

action was curiously accurate. He made no attack that day. The sixth

division came up, and Soult was beaten!

[Illustration: Combat of Roncesvalles, July 25, 1813. From Napier's

"Peninsular War."]

There were two combats of Sauroren, and each was, in Wellington's own

phrase, "bludgeon work"--a battle of soldiers rather than of generals,

a tangle of fierce charges and counter-charges, of volleys delivered so

close that they scorched the very clothes of the opposing lines, and

sustained so fiercely that they died down only because the lines of

desperately firing men crumbled into ruin and silence. Nothing could

be finer than the way in which a French column, swiftly, sternly, and

without firing a shot, swept up a craggy steep crowned by rocks like

castles, held by some Portuguese battalions, and won the position.

Ross's brigade, in return, with equal vehemence recharged the position

from its side, and dashed the French out of it; the French in still

greater force came back, a shouting mass, and crushed Ross's men. Then

Wellington sent forward Byng's brigade at running pace, and hurled the

French down the mountain side. At another point in the pass the French

renewed their assault four times; in their second assault they gained

the summit. The 40th were in reserve at that point; they waited in

steady silence till the edge of the French line, a confused mass of

tossing bayonets and perspiring faces, came clear over the crest; then,

running forward with extraordinary fury, they flung them, a broken,

tumultuous mass, down the slope. In the later charges, so fierce and

resolute were the French officers that they were seen dragging their

tired soldiers up the hill by their belts!

It is idle to attempt the tale of this wild mountain fighting. Soult

at last fell back, and Wellington followed, swift and vehement, on his

track, and moved Alten's column to intercept the French retreat. The

story of Alten's march is a marvellous record of soldierly endurance.

His men pressed on with speed for nineteen consecutive hours, and

covered forty miles of mountain tracks, wilder than the Otway Ranges,

or the paths of the Australian Alps between Bright and Omeo. The

weather was close; many men fell and died, convulsed and frothing at

the mouth. Still, their officers leading, the regiment kept up its

quick step, till, as evening fell, the head of the column reached the

edge of the precipice overlooking the bridge across which, in all the

confusion of a hurried retreat, the French troops were crowding. "We

overlooked the enemy," says Cook in his "Memoirs," "at stone's-throw.

The river separated us; but the French were wedged in a narrow road,

with inaccessible rocks on one side, and the river on the other." Who

can describe the scene that followed! Some of the French fired

vertically up at the British; others ran; others shouted for quarter;

some pointed with eager gestures to the wounded, whom they carried on

branches of trees, as if entreating the British not to fire.

In nine days of continual marching, ten desperate actions had been

fought, at what cost of life can hardly be reckoned. Napier, after

roughly calculating the losses, says: "Let this suffice. It is not

needful to sound the stream of blood in all its horrid depths." But

the fighting sowed the wild passes of the Pyrenees thick with the

graves of brave men.

Soult actually fought his way to within sight of the walls of

Pampeluna, and its beleaguered garrison waved frantic welcomes to his

columns as, from the flanks of the overshadowing hills, they looked

down on the city. Then broken as by the stroke of a thunderbolt, and

driven like wild birds caught in a tempest, the French poured back

through the passes to French soil again. "I never saw such fighting,"

was Wellington's comment on the struggle.

For the weeks that followed, Soult could only look on while San

Sebastian and Pampeluna fell. Then the allied outposts were advanced

to the slopes looking down on France and the distant sea. It is

recorded that the Highlanders of Hill's division, like Xenophon's

Greeks 2000 years before them, broke into cheers when they caught their

first glimpse of the sea, the great, wrinkled, azure-tinted floor,

flecked with white sails. It was "the way home!" Bearn and Gascony

and Languedoc lay stretched like a map under their feet. But the

weather was bitter, the snow lay thick in the passes, sentinels were

frozen at the outposts, and a curious stream of desertions began. The

warm plains of sunny France tempted the half-frozen troops, and Southey

computes, with an arithmetical precision which is half-humorous, that

the average weekly proportion of desertions was 25 Spaniards, 15 Irish,

12 English, 6 Scotch, and half a Portuguese! One indignant English

colonel drew up his regiment on parade, and told the men that "if any

of them wanted to join the French they had better do so at once. He

gave them free leave. He wouldn't have men in the regiment who wished

to join the enemy!"

Meanwhile Soult was trying to construct on French soil lines of defence

as mighty as those of Wellington at Torres Vedras; and on October 7,

Wellington pushed his left across the Bidassoa, the stream that marks

the boundaries of Spain and France. On the French side the hills rise

to a great height. One huge shoulder, called La Rhune, commands the

whole stream; another lofty ridge, called the "Boar's Back," offered

almost equal facilities for defence. The only road that crossed the

hills rose steeply, with sharp zigzags, and for weeks the French had

toiled to make the whole position impregnable. The British soldiers

had watched while the mountain sides were scarred with trenches, and

the road was blocked with abattis, and redoubt rose above redoubt like

a gigantic staircase climbing the sky. The Bidassoa at its mouth is

wide, and the tides rose sixteen feet.

But on the night of October 7--a night wild with rain and

sleet--Wellington's troops marched silently to their assigned posts on

the banks of the river. When day broke, at a signal-gun seven columns

could be seen moving at once in a line of five miles, and before Soult

could detect Wellington's plan the river was crossed, the French

entrenched camps on the Bidassoa won! The next morning the heights

were attacked. The Rifles carried the Boar's Back with a single

effort. The Bayonette Crest, a huge spur guarded by battery above

battery, and crowned by a great redoubt, was attacked by Colborne's

brigade and some Portuguese. The tale of how the hill was climbed, and

the batteries carried in swift succession, cannot be told here. It was

a warlike feat of the most splendid quality. Other columns moving

along the flanks of the great hill alarmed the French lest they should

be cut off, and they abandoned the redoubt on the summit. Colborne,

accompanied by only one of his staff and half-a-dozen files of

riflemen, came suddenly round a shoulder of the hill on the whole

garrison of the redoubt, 300 strong, in retreat. With great presence

of mind, he ordered them, in the sharpest tones of authority, to "lay

down their arms," and, believing themselves cut off, they obeyed!

A column of Spanish troops moving up the flanks of the great Rhune

found their way barred by a strong line of abattis and the fire of two

French regiments. The column halted, and their officers vainly strove

to get the Spaniards to attack. An officer of the 43rd named

Havelock--a name yet more famous in later wars--attached to Alten's

staff, was sent to see what caused the stoppage of the column. He

found the Spaniards checked by the great abattis, through which

flashed, fierce and fast, the fire of the French. Waving his hat, he

shouted to the Spaniards to "follow him," and, putting his horse at the

abattis, at one leap went headlong amongst the French. There is a

swift contagion in valour. He was only a light-haired lad, and the

Spaniards with one vehement shout for "el chico blanco"--"the fair

lad"--swept over abattis and French together!

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