ART SMITHING AND SCROLL WORK
=141. Art Smithing.=—This subject might appropriately be considered a
separate branch, because many smiths, who really deserve the credit
of being excellent mechanics, have never become proficient in this
particular line of work.
Art smithing is the highest development of metal work. The best art
smiths are foreigners, as European countries use much more of this kind
of work for decoration than this country does. The greater part of this
work is entirely too difficult for the average student unless it is
attempted with the assistance of machinery.
It is possible, however, to do a certain amount of scroll work with
accuracy and make simple decorative pieces. One should commence with
the design of the article to be made. The harmonious combinations of
straight and curved lines and their adaptation for different purposes
should be studied. The study of design will not be taken up here, but
several examples which will furnish a basis for further work along this
line are given for consideration.
Designing may be done on any convenient material such as paper,
wood, or blackboard. The last is preferable because confusing marks
can easily be erased. A sketch thus made may be used as a working
drawing. If the design is to be used many times, a very convenient and
substantial method is to reproduce it on a piece of shellacked pine
board, and then paint it on in solid form. When this is dry, a few more
coats of shellac should be applied to preserve it. If desired, the
length of each individual scroll may be indicated.
There are various methods of obtaining the different lengths: by
placing a strong string over the scroll and then measuring the string;
by using a piece of soft wire in the same manner, lead wire being
preferred; or by the following method:—
Take a piece of 1/8-inch material 3 or 4 feet long, mark it lightly on
both edges into equal spaces either 3 or 6 inches long, and stamp the
feet or inches upon it with steel figures. After this is done, a small
rolling curl, as shown in Fig. 129, should be formed, and the entire
length bent on the scroll former while the material is cold. This is
the manner, minus the markings mentioned, in which all scrolls are to
be formed. This product with the markings upon it should be kept for
ascertaining the number of inches required for either large or small
scrolls. Always place the curled end of this measure in position on
the working drawing and adjust it until it conforms to the outline
of the design. Then place a crayon mark on both the drawing and the
measure where they cease to correspond; the length of that portion
which corresponds can be ascertained from the markings on the measure,
and all remaining irregular curves can be measured by a string, wire,
or rule. This measure will prove also to be quite a satisfactory and
accurate means of arranging new designs.
=142. Scroll Fastenings.=—There are three different methods used for
joining scrolls: welding, riveting, and banding with clips. The first
is the most difficult and the most artistic, but unless one is quite
expert at welding, especially in joining light material such as is
generally used for scroll work, it would perhaps be better to disregard
this method entirely.
Riveting presents a very neat appearance and makes the product quite
strong and substantial, but unless the marking and drilling of holes
is accurately done, the result presents a distorted and ill-shaped
combination, which cannot be remedied without drilling new holes.
It would be advisable, then, to adopt the last method generally,
resorting to riveting wherever it is impossible to use clips or bands,
or where strength is an essential requirement. If a clip is misplaced,
it can be replaced with a new one, or it may be moved into the proper
position without showing that an error has been made.
[Illustration: FIG. 128.—THE SCROLL FORMER.]
=143. Scroll Former.=—Fig. 128. This is a very handy tool for producing
scrolls in a rapid and uniform manner. It should be a perfectly
designed variable spiral. If several are provided, they should be
exactly alike, otherwise the scrolls produced with them will be unequal
and irregular and will present an inartistic appearance. The former
illustrated is made of 1 × 1/2-inch soft steel. Draw the end and form
the central portion, gradually tapering to about 3/16 of an inch thick,
but leave it of a uniform width. This end should be slightly beveled
from one side to form a protruding edge, over which the small curled
end of the material is securely held while the scroll is being bent. A
view of the former as it is used to start a scroll is given in Fig. 129
showing the metal in proper position for forming. The end indicated at
_a_, Fig. 128, may be bent downward and edgewise to a right angle, as
shown, or, if desired, it may be forged square to fit the hardy hole of
the anvil, but as this tool is most conveniently used when held in the
vise, the method shown at _a_ is better.
[Illustration: FIG. 129.—STARTING A SCROLL ON THE FORMER.]
=144. Bending or Twisting Fork.=—Fig. 130. This fork is shown with
dimensions suitable for bending material 1/8 or 3/16 inch in thickness.
For thicker material all dimensions should be proportionately increased.
[Illustration: FIG. 130.—BENDING OR TWISTING FORK.]
This tool is very serviceable and quite easily made of round tool
steel; if such stock is not at hand, octagonal tool steel can be
swaged to the desired dimension. If it is made of soft steel, it will
meet requirements for a considerable length of time.
=145. Bending or Twisting Wrench.=—Fig. 131. This should be made from
the same quality of steel of the same dimensions as the preceding tool.
[Illustration: FIG. 131.—BENDING OR TWISTING WRENCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 132.—SCROLL BENDING.]
The bending wrench is used in connection with the bending fork for
shaping a scroll, as shown in Fig. 132. When the wrench is placed over
the material so that its jaws will grip the sides and the handle of the
wrench is pulled in the direction indicated by the arrow, bending will
take place at _e_. If the straight end of the scroll were pulled in the
same direction, bending would occur at _f_. Sometimes when scrolls are
being connected with the band, they are sprung out of place. By the use
of this wrench they can be brought again into position by bending them
close to where the band was put on.
These tools may be used together for twisting light material, when the
vise and monkey wrench could not readily be utilized.
[Illustration: FIG. 133.—CLIP FORMER.]
=146. Clip Former.=—Fig. 133. This and the two following tools should
be made of 0.80 to 0.90 per cent carbon tool steel. A convenient size
of material for the one shown is 1 × 1/2 inch. The portion forming the
connecting loop must be flattened and forged to about 1/4 inch thick to
provide a spring for retaining its shape. The ends should be forged to
two different thicknesses. The 1/4-inch side is used in bending clips
for banding two pieces of 1/8-inch material, and the 3/8-inch side for
three pieces. When a different thickness of material is to be used,
these ends should be made to correspond with it. The inner and outer
edges of these ends should be made slightly rounding to prevent cutting
the material from which the clips are made. Most of this light scroll
work is made from stock with round edges, therefore it is not necessary
to have the clips bent sharp and square.
[Illustration: FIG. 134.—USE OF THE CLIP FORMER.]
The former should be so proportioned that it can be placed between the
jaws of the vise, as shown in Fig. 134. Here the loop is resting on
the box of the vise, which supports it and prevents it from falling
out of position when the pressure of the vise is released. The ends
of the clip former should extend above the jaws of the vise about 2
inches, so that the clips can be bent without striking the vise with
the hammer. A view of these ends, with a piece of half-oval iron in
position for bending, is shown at _A_, Fig. 137. One end of the clip
material should be placed between the ends of the former, one half the
width of the scroll stock, 3/16 of an inch if the stock is 3/8 inch
wide. By tightening the jaws of the vise upon the sides of the former,
the half-oval iron will be securely held, while it is being bent over
with the hand hammer to the form indicated by the broken lines. The
clip will then be ready for fastening the scrolls together.
[Illustration: FIG. 135.—CLIP HOLDER.]
[Illustration: FIG. 136.—USE OF THE CLIP HOLDER.]
=147. Clip Holder.=—Fig. 135. Stock 3/4 inch square is best suited for
making this tool. The central portion forming the loop should be drawn
and forged to about 1/4 inch thick, gradually increased to 1/2 inch
where the shoulders are formed. The distance from these shoulders to
the outside end of the loop should be less than the distance from the
top of the vise jaws to the vise box. Then the tool will be supported
entirely on these shoulders, as shown in Fig. 136, and the tool may be
placed near the ends of the vise jaws, which sometimes will prove to
be quite an advantage. The length from the shoulders to the ends may
be about 2 inches. These ends should be drawn tapering from the outer
sides to about 1/2 inch square. On the inside a depression 3/16 inch
deep should be formed so that the holder will fit over the bent end of
a clip, as shown at _B_, Fig. 137.
[Illustration: FIG. 137.—FORMING A CLIP.]
The clip and a sectional view of the two pieces of material that are
to be connected are shown at _B_ as they are placed in this tool. By
tightening the vise upon the holder, the lower portion of the clip will
be clamped securely on the pieces and held while the upright end of the
clip is bent over and around the upper half of the material with the
hand hammer. Then the following tool will be brought into use.
=148. Clip Tightener or Clincher.=—Fig. 138. The most convenient stock
from which to make this tool is 3/4-inch octagon tool steel. It is
made by upsetting and forging the end to about 1-1/4 × 1/2 inches,
then filing a depression not more than 3/16 inch deep and wide enough
to fit tightly over the outer portion of the bent end of a clip. The
corners indicated at _e_ should be made slightly round to prevent them
from marring the outside of the clips. This tool should be about 6-1/2
inches long, with the head end drawn as for a cold chisel.
[Illustration: FIG. 138.—CLIP TIGHTENER OR CLINCHER.]
By holding this tool on top of the bent-over clip, as shown at _C_,
Fig. 137, and delivering a few heavy blows upon it, the clip will be
tightened and clinched securely over and around the pieces.
[Illustration: FIG. 139.—JARDINIÈRE STAND OR TABORET.]
=149. Jardinière Stand or Taboret.=—Fig. 139. The height from the floor
line to the top of the circular board is 26 inches; the height from
the floor line to the upper ring _E_ is 19-1/2 inches; the height from
the floor line to the lower ring _F_ is 7 inches; the extreme width is
18-1/2 inches.
The process of making this stand will be given here. By following a
similar course, any of the other designs given in this chapter may be
made. The material usually employed for making this is 1/2 × 1/8-inch,
and there should be four sections or legs, as shown at the left, also
two bands or rings, like the one shown in the upper right, and one
top board 7/8 inch thick and 8 inches in diameter, which is shown
under the ring. The following list gives the number and lengths of the
various pieces required:—
4 pieces 45-1/2 inches long.
4 pieces 22-1/2 inches long.
4 pieces 15-1/2 inches long.
4 pieces 15 inches long.
2 pieces 14-1/2 inches long.
4 pieces 13 inches long.
All pieces should be straightened immediately after being cut to
length. The main branch, 45-1/2 inches long, should be marked with a
center punch at all places where bending or twisting is to be done.
From the end of the stock to _A_ is 6 inches; from _A_ to _B_, 9
inches; _B_ to _C_, 4-1/2 inches; the length of the twisted portion is
2-1/2 inches.
All ends that are to be scrolled, should be drawn, curled, and fitted
to the central portion of the former, as previously indicated. When
_both_ ends of the same piece are to be scrolled, observe carefully
whether they revolve in the _same_ or in _opposite_ directions. These
ends should not be cooled after drawing and fitting, because cooling
will have a tendency to harden them slightly and prevent uniform
bending. All ends that are to be connected to another piece by clips
should now be drawn out to a thin edge, but of a uniform width.
Now proceed to form the main branch by making the twisted portion
between _B_ and _C_; straighten if necessary. Form the upper angular
bend of 90 degrees at _A_ while it is held in the vise; this can be
done cold, by carefully avoiding breaking or cutting the material with
the sharp edge of the vise. Now form a scroll at the top on the former.
Next bend at _B_ in the same manner and direction as before, and make
the two quarter circles between _A_ and _B_, with the bending fork
alone or by combining the use of it with the bending wrench. Exercise
care in doing this, in order to have the correct space for scroll 2
and ring _E_, which should be 5 inches outside diameter. The lower
angular bend at _C_ should now be made, followed by forming as much of
the scroll _D_ as possible on the former. Then bend the irregular curve
between _D_ and _C_.
The next member to be scrolled and fitted into position is the
15-1/2-inch piece, 4. This must be carefully made in order to have the
extreme height of the scroll at the proper distance from the bottom
line, also at the proper distance from the center line, to provide
an exact dimension where the lower ring _F_ is to be connected. The
outside diameter of ring _F_ should be 5 inches. Then scroll and fit
the 15-inch piece, 3, followed by the 13-inch piece, 5, and finish this
leg by arranging the 22-1/2-inch piece, 2, last, so that it will not
extend above the bottom line of the circular board and will leave at
least a 1/4-inch space between the center line and the sides of the
curves.
All parts should be assembled on the drawing after they are fitted, and
marked with crayon wherever the clips are to be placed to secure them.
The material for the clips, which should be 3/8-inch half-oval Norway
iron, should be cut up in lengths equal to the four outside dimensions
of the combined materials plus 1/8 of an inch for bending, or 1-5/8
inches in this case. After these pieces are bent on the clip former,
fasten the scrolls together with the clip holder and the clincher.
After the four legs or parts have been assembled, lay each separately
on the drawing, to make sure that the places, where they are to be
connected with the rings and the circular board, are properly located.
If they are correct, mark these places with a center punch, and drill
9/64-inch holes where the rings are to be connected and 3/16-inch holes
where the top is to be secured.
The two 14-1/2-inch pieces are for the rings. Drill a 9/64-inch hole
3/8 of an inch from each end in both pieces, countersink one side of
one end of each piece, and grind a beveled edge on this end, but on
the opposite side from the countersink. Form them into rings having
the countersink inside. Connect the ends of each ring with a 1/8 ×
3/8-inch round-head rivet, inserting it from the outside of the ring
and riveting the ends together, filling the countersink. Place the
rings separately on the mandrel and make them perfectly round on the
inside by forming a slight offset on the outside end where it begins to
lap over the beveled inside end.
Draw a 5-inch circle on a piece of board and divide it into quarters.
Place the rings on this outline with the outside end about 1/4 inch
from one of the quarter lines. Mark where each quarter line crosses the
ring, center-punch these places, drill 9/64-inch holes, and countersink
them on the inside. Then assemble the legs by riveting the upper ring
to the standard with 1/8 × 1/2-inch rivets, the lower one with 1/8 ×
3/8-inch rivets, their heads toward the exterior so that riveting will
be done on the inside of the rings filling the countersink. Place the
circular top board in position and secure it with 1-inch #10 round-head
wood screws. This will complete the construction, with the exception of
a coat of black japanning, if a glossy finish is desired, or a coat of
dead black lacquer if a rich dull black is desired.
[Illustration: FIG. 140.—UMBRELLA STAND.]
=150. Umbrella Stand.=—Fig. 140. Extreme height, 27-1/2 inches; extreme
width, 18-1/2 inches; upper rings, 9-1/4 inches inside diameter;
lower ring, 5-1/4 inches inside diameter. Provide a small deep pan to
rest on top of this ring.
[Illustration: FIG. 141.—READING LAMP.]
=151. Reading Lamp.=—Fig. 141. Extreme height, 23 inches; height of the
stand, 14 inches; base, 8-1/4 inches wide; shade, 14 × 14 inches wide,
6-1/4 inches high, top opening, 4 × 4 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 142.—ANDIRONS AND BAR.]
=152. Andirons and Bar.=—Fig. 142. Extreme height, 24 inches; extreme
width of base, 18 inches; height from the floor line to the top of the
upper scroll, 11-1/2 inches; length of bar, 40 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 143.—FIRE SET.]
=153. Fire Set.=—Fig. 143. Extreme height, 30 inches; height to the
holders, 24 inches; height to the top of the upper scroll, 11-1/2
inches; extreme width of the base, 14 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 144.—FIRE SET SEPARATED.]
=154. Fire Set Separated.=—Fig. 144. Extreme length of implements, 22
inches.
QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW
Explain three methods of obtaining the length of a scroll. Should
scrolls be bent hot or cold? Why are the ends of the clip former
made to different thicknesses? Why is the clip former made thinner
at the loop? How is that tool placed in the vise? Why is the clip
holder made with shoulders on its outer sides? Give the rule for
cutting off clip stock. After the scroll material has been cut to
length, what should be done? When ready to draw and bend the curl for
a scroll what should be observed? Why shouldn’t it be cooled after
drawing and curling? What is done with the ends of a scroll if they
are to be fastened with clips? Explain how the rings are made for the
jardinière stand. Describe the process of making the umbrella stand
in Fig. 140.