PRACTICE EXERCISES
=68. Staple.=—Fig. 48. Drawing and bending. Material required: 5 inches
of 1/4-inch round iron.
[Illustration: FIG. 48.—STEPS IN MAKING A STAPLE.]
Draw 1 inch of each end to a flat chisel-shaped point 1/4 inch wide;
these drawn ends should be 1-3/4 inches long, leaving 3 inches of round
stock between them. Heat the center and bend it, with points edgewise,
to a semicircle of 3/4 inch inside diameter. These ends should be of
equal length, parallel and straight.
When drawing the ends, heat the metal to a white heat to prevent
the fibers from splitting or separating. Heat only to a cherry
red for bending, to prevent heavy scaling, which is one cause of
rough-appearing work. Rough work may also be caused by improper use of
the hammer in striking too hard or frequently at one place. (See Fig.
48 for dimensions and stages.)
=69. Draw Spike.=—Fig. 49. Bending and drawing. Material required: 7
inches of 1/4-inch round iron.
[Illustration: FIG. 49.—STEPS IN MAKING A DRAW SPIKE.]
Bend 3-1/4 inches of one end nearly to a right angle; have the inner
corner almost sharp and square, the outer portion circular at the
corner. Then form a perfectly circular eye of the 3-1/4-inch end,
having the center of the eye in line with the central portion of the
stem. When drawing the point, first draw it square, then octagonal, and
then finish it to a round. (See Fig. 49 for dimensions and stages.)
=70. S Hook.=—Fig. 50. Drawing and bending. Material required: 5 inches
of 1/4-inch round iron.
Draw 1/2 inch of each end to a smooth, round point; this should make
the length from point to point 6-1/4 inches, and the central portion
for 4 inches should be full-sized 1/4-inch round. Using half of the
entire length, bend the first hook to an inside diameter of 7/8 inch,
then bend the remaining half in the opposite direction to the same
diameter, bringing both points directly toward each other, as shown.
When heating for bending, be careful to avoid burning the points. (See
Fig. 50 for dimensions and stages.)
[Illustration: FIG. 50.—STEPS IN MAKING AN S HOOK.]
=71. Pipe Hook.=—Fig. 51. Upsetting, forging, and bending. Material
required: 9 inches of 1/2-inch square. Norway iron or soft steel is
best for this exercise.
(_Caution._ To avoid injuring the fiber of the metal and to upset it
rapidly with the least amount of labor, always have the metal perfectly
straight, and heat it only where the upsetting is required.)
Bring 4 inches of the central portion of the material to a white heat;
if the heat extends beyond that distance, cool 2-1/2 inches of each
end, then the upsetting will be confined to the desired place. Cool
the ends quickly and thoroughly, so that the upsetting blows may be
delivered before the heat has vanished. The material should be held
vertically with the lower end resting on the anvil, while heavy blows
are delivered on the top end, thus upsetting the heated metal.
[Illustration: FIG. 51.—STEPS IN MAKING A PIPE HOOK.]
These operations should be repeated until the center is 7/8 inch thick
one way, with all excess metal forged on one side, as at _a_, and
the three others perfectly straight. Now form a shoulder _b_, with
overhanging blows, about 1/8 of an inch from the center or thickest
portion, but draw it no smaller than 5/16 of an inch at the bottom.
Then draw the metal marked _c_ to an approximate dimension of 1/2 ×
5/16 inch. Form this shoulder perfectly square, by holding it over a
square corner of the anvil and delivering backing-up blows on the heavy
end, while the drawn part rests flat on the anvil; the metal should
be hot at the shoulder and cold on the end where the blows are to be
delivered. Then use the flatter on the drawn end to smooth and draw
it to the finished dimensions of 1/2 × 1/4 inch, making it perfectly
smooth and straight on all sides. Cut off this drawn end 6 inches from
the shoulder, as shown at _d_.
Draw the heavy end to a sharp, square point, making it straight on the
side opposite to the shoulder and tapering from a point about 2-1/4
inches from the shoulder; this should also be made smooth with the
flatter. Sketch _e_ shows this so far completed.
Beginning 1/2 inch from the shoulder, bend the 6-inch end backward
through its smallest dimension, to a semicircle of 3 inches inside
diameter. An outline of the required semicircle should be inscribed
on a plate, or models may be made to verify it. Sketch _F_ shows the
completed hook.
=72. Gate Hook.=—Fig. 52. Drawing, bending, and twisting. Material
required: 7-1/4 inches of 3/8-inch square mild steel.
Mark lightly with the hardy on two edges 1-1/2 inches from one end,
as shown at _a_. Form shoulders at these marks on three sides of the
metal; do not make them too deep, as surplus metal will be required for
bending here. Draw the metal at the shoulders just made, continuing to
the end to 5/16 inch round and 2-1/2 inches long. Sketch _b_ shows the
work completed to this point.
Mark the opposite end on the same edges and in a like manner 4-1/2
inches from where the first shoulders have been formed; form shoulders
at these marks and also draw down to 5/16 inch round, making the
extreme end a smooth, round point, 2-1/2 inches long from the
shoulders, as at _c_. Both of these ends should be round and smoothly
drawn with the hand hammer.
[Illustration: FIG. 52.—STEPS IN MAKING A GATE HOOK.]
Bend the straight, round end from the side _e_ to a right angle,
proceeding as follows: When placing the work on the anvil, have the
side _e_ uppermost and the shoulder projecting over the edge of the
anvil the thickness of the round, or 5/16 inch; then when the metal
is bent, the inside corner will be formed at the proper place and
the shoulder will readily form into a right angle on the outer side.
Light upright and backing-up blows will aid in forming the right angle
after it has been bent, provided the piece is held with the round end
vertical and resting on the face of the anvil. If such blows are used
while it is being held over the edge of the anvil, they will reduce
the sectional dimensions and not materially aid in forming the angle.
Sketch _d_ shows this angle in solid lines. Now form the round portion
of this angle into a circular eye, making the inside diameter 1/2 inch,
with the center on a line with the center of the main stem. Sketch _d_
shows this eye in broken lines.
Bend the pointed end in the same manner and in the same direction as
the eye, having the distance between the eye and the angle 4 inches,
as shown in sketch _F_. Now heat this end and cool the extreme corner
of the angle to prevent its straightening, then form the hook to the
dimensions given in the sketch.
Heat the central portion of the square metal to an even cherry red;
hold the hook and 1 inch of the square portion securely in the vise;
then grasp the other end with the tongs or wrench 2 inches from the
vise, and revolve it once, thus forming a twist of the proper length.
Before cooling this work, see that the eye and hook are parallel and
the body of the hook is perfectly straight.
=73. Door Hasp.=—Fig. 53. Drawing, forging, punching, cutting, and
bending. Material required: 7 inches of 1 × 3/16-inch mild steel.
Mark lightly with the hardy on the edges 1 inch and 3-1/4 inches from
one end, as at _a_. Form shoulders at these marks with edge-to-edge
blows, as shown at _b_, so that the metal between them may be drawn
to smaller dimensions. The shoulders should be formed not deeper than
1/8 inch at first, and the metal between them should be drawn to a
corresponding dimension. Then forge the 1-inch end into a round eye, as
at _c_, and punch a 5/16-inch hole in its center, as shown at _d_. Now
draw the metal between the eye and the shoulders to exact dimensions, 3
inches long, 5/8 inch wide, and 3/16 inch thick, as shown at _d_.
[Illustration: FIG. 53.—STEPS IN MAKING A DOOR HASP.]
Mark the other end in the same manner 2-1/2 inches from the shoulders,
and form new shoulders at these marks with edge-to-edge blows. Draw
the metal to a length of 2-1/8 inches, making it 5/8 × 3/16 inch at
the shoulders and 1/2 × 1/8 inch at the end; the extreme end should be
forged round. Sketch _E_ shows these operations completed.
Locate the center of the 2-1/2-inch length; from that point place
a center-punch mark 7/8 inch each side of the center and punch a
5/16-inch hole at each mark with a hand punch, by placing the outer
edge of the punch at the center-punch mark. Deliver no blows on the
edges of this metal after the holes are punched.
Using a sharp, hot cutter, remove the metal between the holes, by
cutting it equally from both sides, thus forming the slot as indicated
by the broken lines in sketch _E_. By placing it over the hardy,
straighten the metal which forms the sides of this slot, and all other
portions, so that all edges will be straight and parallel to each
other. Smooth all flat surfaces with a flatter, using water to remove
the scale of oxide. If the marking and punching of the holes have been
carefully done, the inside length of the slot will now be 2 inches.
Bend the 2-1/8-inch end to a right angle at the shoulders, having the
length from the inside of the angle to the outside of the eye about 7
inches. Heat this entire end and quickly cool the extreme corner of
the angle to prevent its straightening there, then form the hook to
the dimensions given in sketch _F_. The inner edges of the slot may be
filed straight and parallel to the outside edges, but the semicircular
ends which have been formed by the punch should not be disturbed.
=74. Hexagonal Head Bolt.=—Fig 54. Upsetting and forging to a hexagonal
cross section. Material required: 7 inches of 1/2-inch round iron.
Heat one end to a white heat, then cool off 4-1/2 inches of the
opposite end, thus confining the upsetting to the required area; upset
the hot end until its diameter is 3/4 inch, and the length over all is
about 5-1/2 inches.
It is important that the 4-1/2 inches be kept perfectly cold, to
prevent upsetting there, also to prevent its sticking fast in the
heading tool, or possibly using more metal than is required for forming
the head.
[Illustration: FIG. 54.—HEXAGONAL HEAD BOLT.]
The upset metal should extend equally around the bolt. This will tend
to prevent the head from forming unequally when the metal is being
forged down on the heading tool. The head can be prevented from forming
on one side by directing the blows toward the opposite side. Form
the head by heating the upset end to a white heat, by inserting the
opposite end in the heading tool, and by delivering upright blows on
the heated end, unless others are required, thus forging down the upset
metal to 1/2 inch thick. Remove it from the heading tool and forge the
head into a hexagonal form. It will be necessary to insert the bolt in
the heading tool several times to obtain the exact dimensions of the
head, which should be 7/8 inch through its short diameter and 1/2 inch
thick. The chamfered finish on the top of the head is produced by using
a button head set while the bolt is held in the heading tool.
=75. Square-cornered Angle.=—Fig. 55. Upsetting, chamfering, and
forging a square corner. Material required: 10 inches of 1 × 1/2-inch
iron.
Upset the center by cooling 3-1/2 inches of each end to confine
the operation to the required place. The center should be 7/8 inch
thick, and all upset metal should be forged to one side; the opposite
side and both edges should be straight. Draw both ends tapering from
where the upsetting ceases to 3/4 × 1/4 inch at the ends; chamfer the
edges of the drawn ends on the straight, flat side, beginning about 2
inches from the center and continuing to the ends. If the drawing and
chamfering are properly done, each end will be 5-1/2 inches from the
center.
[Illustration: FIG. 55.—UPSETTING FOR A SQUARE CORNER.]
Heat and bend the stock at the upset center to a right angle, with
the upset metal on the outer side to provide for the square corner.
The bending should be done over the horn of the anvil to produce the
quarter-round fillet on the inner side, and may be confined to the
center by cooling both ends to where the upsetting begins.
As bends of this kind are somewhat difficult to make correctly, it
would be a great advantage to provide a form which may be made to fit
into the vise; then one end of the angle can be held securely with the
form while the opposite end is bent over it. By any simple form it is
impossible to make the outside corner perfectly sharp and square with
one operation; it is therefore necessary to forge the outside corner
sharp and square by delivering blows on both sides, somewhat in the
manner shown in Fig. 56, but good judgment must be used in doing this.
[Illustration: FIG. 56.—SQUARE-CORNERED ANGLE.]
The chamfering may be marred or entirely removed in forging the corner;
if so, rechamfer, and if the ends are of unequal lengths, the longer
one should be cut off equal with the other. Then all surfaces should
be made straight and smooth with the flatter and the scale removed by
occasionally dipping the flatter in water.
=76. Fagot Welding.=—Welding and forging to dimensions. Material
required: convenient pieces of scrap iron and a bar of 5/8-inch round
stock from 24 to 30 inches long.
Temporarily weld several separate pieces of scrap on to the bar until
sufficient metal is provided for a thorough welding and forging of a
solid piece of square iron 3-1/2 inches long and 11/16 inch square. The
welding should be done so as not to show where the pieces were joined.
Forge it perfectly square and smooth with the flatter. Cut one end off
square with a sharp hot cutter, then cut it to the required length.
=77. Round Weld.=—Fig. 57. Scarfing, welding, and swaging. Material
required: two pieces of 7/16-inch round iron, 4-1/2 inches long.
Upset one end to 9/16 inch, as shown at _a_. To form the scarf, deliver
backing-up blows with the face of the hammer, as shown at _b_, and
finish with blows delivered similarly with the ball. These backing-up
blows will form the heel of the scarf. Draw out the point of the scarf
with overhanging blows, as shown at _c_. The joining surface should be
convex so that welding will proceed from the center. Scarf both pieces
in the same manner, as at _d_.
[Illustration: FIG. 57.—STEPS IN SCARFING FOR A ROUND WELD.]
Heat and weld according to instructions on welding and finish the work
smoothly with swages; then cut to a length of 6 inches, having the weld
in the center.
Properly formed scarfs will produce perfect welds provided they are
heated to the welding temperature when they are joined, but those
improperly formed generally produce imperfect welds, although the heat
is right.
=78. Flat Right-angled Weld.=—Fig. 58. Material required: two pieces of
iron 3/4 × 3/8, 4-1/2 inches long.
Upset one end 1/8 inch larger than its diameters, as at _a_. By using
backing-up blows as in the previous exercise, form a heel on one
side, as shown at _b_, then resting the straight side on the anvil,
draw out the point with the ball of the hammer, as at _c_. In drawing
this point, the metal will spread and form a wide fan-shaped end, but
by resting the right side _d_ on the horn of the anvil and delivering
blows on the left, the latter edge will be straightened, leaving all
projecting metal on the right.
[Illustration: FIG. 58.—STEPS IN SCARFING FOR A CORNER WELD.]
Upset one end of the other piece to the same dimensions, allowing this
upsetting to continue along the metal about 1 inch. Form a scarf on the
left edge at _e_, with the ball of hammer, using blows similar to those
shown at _c_ and leaving the end square. Place them together to see if
the points meet the heels; if not, make necessary alterations so they
will.
Place the pieces in the fire, so that the side scarf will be removed
with the left hand and the end scarf with the right. When placing for
welding, the right-hand piece should be laid on the anvil and the
left-hand one placed in its proper position on top of it. The inside
corner should form a quarter-round fillet, the outside should be sharp
and square, and the longer end cut off to make them both equal. Smooth
all surfaces with a flatter. Sketch _F_ shows the weld completed; the
dotted lines indicate the location of the scarfs before welding.
=79. T Weld.=—Fig. 59. Scarfing and welding. Material required: two
pieces of 3/4 × 3/8-inch iron, 8 and 4-1/2 inches long.
[Illustration: FIG. 59.—STEPS IN SCARFING FOR A T WELD.]
Upset one end of the shorter piece 1/8 inch larger than its diameters,
and form a scarf similar to the first one for the right-angled weld,
but here allow it to form fan-shaped and project equally over each
edge, as shown at _a_.
Upset the center of the long piece to 1/8 inch or more larger than its
diameters, with the upset portion fully 1 inch long, as at _b_. Form a
scarf at this place with the ball of the hammer, allowing the metal to
bend edgewise, as at _c_. Do not make this scarf quite so wide as the
first one, as its edges should be entirely covered by scarf _a_ without
leaving any openings. See that they fit properly before heating for
welding.
Especial care should be taken to have a good fire. The long piece
should be placed in the fire so as to be removed with the left hand,
and the short one with the right. Place the short piece on the anvil,
with the long piece, held in the left hand, on top of and overlapping
it sufficiently to prevent any openings. When welded, the long piece
should be perfectly straight, with the short one at a right angle to
it. Finish the weld with the flatter while it is at a dull red heat.
Sketch _D_ shows the T completed.
[Illustration: FIG. 60.—CHAIN MAKING.]
=80. Chain Making.=—Fig. 60. Bending, scarfing, and welding links.
Material required: 8 pieces of 3/8-inch round iron, 6 inches long.
Heat and bend the center of each piece to a semicircle 3/4 inch
inside diameter; make the ends of equal length and parallel from
the semicircle, as at _a_. Take one of these bent pieces and form a
scarf on one end by holding it on the edge of the anvil at an angle
of 45 degrees, as shown at _b_, and delivering overhanging blows, as
indicated by the dotted circle, which represents the hammer. Turn the
link over, placing the other end in the same position as the first, and
scarf. Bend both scarfs toward each other equally until they overlap
sufficiently to prevent any opening being formed, as at _c_; this is
called closing the scarf.
Heat and weld the link by delivering the first few blows on its sides
while it is resting on the face of the anvil, then by delivering
lighter ones, while it is hung on the horn. While striking the light
blows, do not hold the link in a fixed position, but move it to receive
the blows around the circumference. The finished dimensions are 2 ×
3/4 inches inside; a slight variation in length does not make any
difference, but their ends and widths should be uniform.
Proceed with another piece in like manner, but after scarfing it insert
the finished link and continue adding new ones, until there are five
links all together. The three extra pieces are for use in the next
three exercises.
=81. Welded Ring.=—Fig. 61. Bending, scarfing, and welding a ring of
round iron. Material required: one piece of 7/16-inch round iron, 8
inches long.
[Illustration: FIG. 61.—STEPS IN MAKING A RING.]
Heat, and bend over the horn of the anvil about 1-1/2 inches of each
end to an inside radius of no less than 1 inch, as at _A_. Then heat
the straight portion to a uniform temperature and bend it by holding
the piece in a vertical position on the anvil, and delivering upright
blows, as shown at _B_; this should produce a form similar to that
shown at _C_. Continue the bending by holding the work as at _D_. By
carefully observing the effect of these blows, you will be able to
determine how the work ought to be held to produce the complete ring.
These blows are used here to give the same effect as leverage blows.
If the position of the metal is changed when and where it should be,
almost a perfect ring may be produced without holding it on the horn
of the anvil. It is not the best method to hold the work on the horn,
because blows delivered in this way have a tendency to produce oval
sections where they hit. In forming this ring the ends should be left
open about 1 inch.
The directions for scarfing and welding are somewhat similar to those
given for links, except that the angle of the scarf should be nearly a
right angle. After the welding is completed, the ring should be made
perfectly round by placing it over a mandrel or the horn of the anvil.
When the ring is welded and complete, connect it to the chain with one
of the extra links.
=82. Chain Swivel.=—Fig. 62. Bending, scarfing, welding, and riveting.
Material: about 2 feet of 7/16-inch round iron. Norway iron is the
best, and this length is the most convenient for the first operations.
[Illustration: FIG. 62.—CHAIN SWIVEL.]
[Illustration: FIG. 63.—TOOL FOR WELDING A SWIVEL.]
For making this swivel, a special mandrel (Fig. 63) should be provided,
made of 3/4-inch round, mild or tool steel, with a short offset of 3/4
inch; the gudgeon or pin which is shown at _a_ should be 1-1/4 inches
long, 7/16 inch in diameter at the shoulder, and tapering to 5/16 inch
at the end. Any convenient length of handle that will prevent burning
the hand when welding, will do.
Bend about 2-1/2 inches of the 7/16-inch round stock to a right
angle, as at _a_, Fig. 64; make the corner as square as possible, by
upsetting it before bending; or after bending, by using upright and
backing-up blows. Flatten the bent portion _b_ parallel with the bar,
by first delivering the blows with the ball of the hammer to increase
the width as much as possible, then finish it to 3/16 inch thick with
the face of the hammer. The corner should be scarfed with the ball of
the hammer and the rib worked out, as shown at _c_.
[Illustration: FIG. 64.—STEPS IN MAKING A SWIVEL.]
Cut off the flat portion 2 inches from the bar, and form a thin scarf
at the end of _b_. Notice that this should be formed on the same side
with _c_. Beginning with the scarf at the end, the flat portion should
be bent or rolled up so that the scarfs will overlap considerably,
as indicated in the end view _d_. The special mandrel should now be
inserted in the opening shown here, and all placed in a 3/4-inch bottom
swage, while the scarfs are hammered into close contact.
The long bar should now be cut off 4-1/2 inches from the inside of the
bend, and a fan-shaped scarf formed with the ball of the hammer, as at
_e_. This should be drawn thin on the end and sides. The center of the
4-1/2-inch length is next bent and the last scarf placed in position
at _f_ by again inserting the mandrel, placing it in the swage, and
closing down the edges around the portions at _f_. It is then ready for
welding. Figure 62 shows this in solid lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.—MAKING AN EYE FOR A SWIVEL.]
A good clean heat should be procured for welding; the mandrel should be
quickly inserted, placed in the swage, and the welding done. This being
completed, a small eye is to be made of 3/8-inch round iron: first, by
bending it in the form shown at _a_, Fig. 65; second, by inserting a
punch in the opening and hammering the ends together, forming the eye,
as shown at _b_; third, by welding these ends solidly together, as at
_c_, and forging the whole to fit loosely in the swivel. The fitted end
is now cut off square 3/8 inch longer than the depth of the hole in the
swivel, heated, and, while the eye is held in the vise, it is quickly
riveted into place with a small straight or ball peen hammer. The eye
is shown in place by the broken lines in Fig. 62. Connect this swivel
to the chain with one of the extra links.
=83. Chain Swivel.=—Figs. 66 and 67. Fullering, forging, bending,
welding, and riveting. Material: a piece of 1 × 1/2-inch iron, 4 or
more inches long.
Using top and bottom fullers, form two sets of depressions not deeper
than 1/4 inch, on each edge and opposite to each other, the first pair
to be 1 inch from the end, the second pair 1 inch from the first, as at
_a_.
[Illustration: FIG. 66.—STEPS IN MAKING A SWIVEL.]
Draw the 1-inch end to 7/16 inch round, leaving it slightly heavier
where it was fullered to provide excess metal for further bending.
The opposite end should now be cut off 1 inch from the fullered place
and drawn to the same dimensions as the first end. Forge the central
portion into a circular form and punch a 3/8-inch hole in its center.
Cut off all surplus material, making the ends 3-1/2 inches long from
the center of the hole, as at _b_.
[Illustration: FIG. 67.—THE COMPLETED SWIVEL.]
Bend each end to a right angle close up to the eye and make the arms
parallel and one inch apart, as at _c_. Drift the hole by driving the
punch through between the parallel ends, thereby forming a slightly
tapered hole. Scarf and weld the ends as you would a link. Make a small
eye of 3/8-inch round stock, proceeding in the manner explained in the
previous exercise, also following the same instructions as to fitting,
cutting, and riveting. Connect the link end of this swivel to the chain
with one of the extra links. (See Fig. 67.)
[Illustration: FIG. 68.—STEPS IN MAKING A CHAIN GRABHOOK.]
=84. Chain Grabhook.=—Fig. 68. Forging, punching, and bending.
Material: one piece of 3/4 × 3/8-inch iron, 4-1/2 inches long.
Form a depression as at _a_, 1/4 inch deep and 3/4 inch from one end
with overhanging blows. (The opposite edge should be kept perfectly
straight during this and the following operations.) Forge the 3/4-inch
end into a circular-shaped eye 3/8 inch thick, and punch a 1/4-inch
hole, in the center, as at _b_. This hole should be drifted or expanded
with a punch driven through from both sides alternately until the
diameter becomes 1/2 inch.
By hanging this eye over the horn of the anvil so that the inner
corners of the eye rest on the horn, by delivering blows opposite to
those corners, and by changing its location so that blows will be
delivered on all outside corners, the sectional form will be changed
from square to octagon; by similar operations the form may be changed
from octagon to round. During this change, light blows should be used
in order to make the eye smooth. This stage is shown at _c_ with a
sectional view of the eye.
[Illustration: FIG. 69.—THE COMPLETED CHAIN GRABHOOK.]
Proceeding from the eye toward the opposite end, forge both edges round
to correspond with the eye, leaving the metal 3/4 inch wide, 3 inches
from the eye, as shown at _d_.
Draw the remaining section tapering from this extreme width to 1/4
inch, and forge the edges round as before. The hook should be 3/16
inch round at the end and 3 inches long from the widest point, as
shown at _E_. Heat the middle portion; cool the point and the eye, and
bend the hook edgewise over the horn of the anvil toward the straight
side, until the point is opposite the depression first formed. The
inside semicircle formed by bending should be 1/2 inch in diameter,
the other inside lines straight and parallel. The extreme point should
be slightly curved away from the eye, and all flat surfaces hammered
smooth with light blows while the hook is at a dull red heat. Figure 69
shows the hook completed. Using the remaining extra link, connect the
hook to the swivel.
QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW
What forging operations are employed in making the staple and the
draw spike? What hammer blows are used on them? What caution should
be observed in heating the S hook for bending? What operations are
employed in making the pipe hook? Which is the most difficult? Where
was the most difficult forging encountered? How was the point drawn?
What operations are employed in making the gate hook? Explain how
the angle should be bent, and how the blows should be delivered to
make it square. Why should the extreme corner of the angle be cooled
off before bending the hook? What operations are employed in making
the hasp? Which one is used first? Into what form is the metal to be
forged in making the bolt? What is meant by chamfering? What kind
of hammer blows should be used in chamfering? Why should the metal
be upset for the round weld? What special hammer blows are to be
used in forming the scarfs? Explain how the scarfs are formed for
the right-angled weld. How should scarfs be placed in the fire? How
should they be placed on the anvil? Explain how the scarfs are formed
for the T weld. Describe the scarfing of a link. Describe the welding
of a link. What is the effect of bending the ring over the horn of
the anvil? What operations are used in making the chain swivel?