CHAPTER X.

OLD GRAVESTONES IN IRELAND.

[Illustration: FIG. 88. SWORDS.]

In entering upon a chapter dealing with "Old Gravestones in Ireland,"

one is tempted to follow a leading case and sum up the subject in the

words: "There are no old gravestones in Ireland." But this would be

true only in a sense. Of those primitive and rustic carvings, which

are so distinctive of the eighteenth-century memorials in England, I

have found an almost entire absence in my holiday-journey ings about

Ireland--the churchyards of which I have sampled, wherever opportunity

was afforded me, from Belfast and Portrush in the north, down to

Killarney and Queenstown in the south. But there are unquestionably

old gravestones of quite a different order of simplicity in the Irish

burial-places, the most common type being the rough slab of stone,

several of which are here sketched at random from the graveyard of

the large village or little town of Swords, ten miles or so north of

Dublin (Fig. 88). Very few of these stones bear any inscription, and,

according to the belief of the local residents, never have been carved

or even shaped in any way. In one or two instances, however, the

effort of trimming the edges of the stone is clearly visible, and in

rare cases we see the pious but immature attempts of the amateur mason

to perpetuate, if only by initials, the memory of the deceased.[10]

Some such records still remain, but many have doubtless perished, for

the material is only the soft freestone so easily obtainable in the

district, and the rains and frosts of no great number of years have

sufficed to obliterate all such shallow carvings; the surfaces of the

laminated rock being even now in process of peeling off before our

eyes.

[Footnote 10: In a barren record of facts, such as this chapter is

meant to be, I avoid as far as possible deductions and reflections

apart from my immediate subject; but it is impossible to pursue an

investigation of this character without being deeply interested both

in the past history and present life of the people. I cannot help

saying that in one day's walk from Malahide to Balbriggan I learnt

far more of the Irish peasantry, the Irish character, and the Irish

"problem" than I had been able to acquire in all my reading, supported

by not a little experience in the capital and great towns of Ireland.

The village streets, the cabins, the schools, the agriculture and the

land, the farmer and the landlord, the poverty and the hospitality

of the people, were all to be studied at first hand; and there were

churches by the way at Swords and Rush which the archaeologist will

seek in vain to match in any other country. The Bound Tower (Celtic no

doubt) at the former place, and the battlemented fortalice, which is

more like a castle than a church, at Rush, are both worth a special

visit.]

The cross and "T.L." scratched on one of the stones appears to be

recent work, and the wonderful preservation of the stone to Lawrence

Paine, of 1686, can only be accounted for by the supposition that it

has long lain buried, and been lately restored to the light. The stone

is of the same perishable kind as the others, and it is certain that

it could not have survived exposure to the atmosphere, as its date

would imply, for upwards of 200 years. It may even be found that the

weather has chipped off the edges of the stones which now appear so

jagged, shapeless, and grotesque; but, from recent evidences gathered

elsewhere, it is but too probable that these rude pillars have been,

and still are, set up as they come from the quarry, without dressing

and free from any carving or attention whatever.

Many instances may be found in which slabs of stone, or even slate,

have been erected quite recently, the edges untrimmed, and the name of

the deceased simply _painted_ upon them more or less inartistically,

as in the sketch from Drogheda (Fig. 89). Such crude examples are the

more remarkable in a busy and thriving port like Drogheda, and amid

many handsome monuments, than among the peasantry of the villages; and

it is easy to imagine that if nothing more durable than paint has been

employed to immortalize the dead in past times all traces must have

speedily disappeared. The illustrations from Drogheda give the whole

inscription in each case, neither having date nor age, nor any other

particular beyond the name. The memorial on the left hand is of

slate--the other two of freestone; and the slate in the northern parts

of Ireland is the preferable of the two materials.

[Illustration: FIG. 89. DROGHEDA.]

There are at Bangor, ten miles west of Belfast, many such slate

records, which have endured for more than a century, and are still

in excellent preservation. One which attracted my especial notice at

Bangor was of the professional character here depicted, and in memory

of one of those bold privateers who were permitted to sail the seas on

their own account in the old war times.

FIG. 90.--AT BANGOR, IRELAND.

The following is the epitaph, as clearly to be read now as on the day

when it was carved on this slab of Irish slate, more than a century

since:

"Born to a course of Manly action free,

I dauntless trod ye fluctuating sea

In Pompous War or happier Peace to bring

Joy to my Sire and honour to my King.

And much by favour of the God was done

Ere half the term of human life was run.

One fatal night, returning from the bay

Where British fleets ye Gallic land survey,

Whilst with warm hope my trembling heart beat high,

My friends, my kindred, and my country nigh,

Lasht by the winds the waves arose and bore

Our Ship in shattered fragments to the shore.

There ye flak'd surge opprest my darkening sight,

And there my eyes for ever lost the light.

"Captain George Colvill of the Private Ship

of War 'Amazon,' and only son of

Robert Colvill of Bangor, was wrecked

near this ground 25th February 1780, in

ye 22nd year of his age."

A possible explanation of the long endurance of this slate slab may

be found in the practice which prevails in this and some other

churchyards of giving all such memorials a periodical coat of paint;

of which, however, in the case here quoted there is no remaining

trace.

Altogether, primitive as they may be, the gravestones of the last

century in Ireland, so far as I have seen them, compare favourably

with the works of the hedge-mason in England which we have seen

in earlier chapters. Even the poor pillar of rough stone, unhewn,

ungarnished, and bare as it is, represents an affectionate remembrance

of the dead which is full of pathos, and has a refinement in its

simplicity which commands our sympathy far above the semi-barbarous

engravings of heads and skulls which we have previously pictured. The

immaturity of provincial art in Ireland is at least redeemed by an

absence of such monstrous figures and designs as we at the present

day usually associate with the carvings of savages in the African

interior.

But the eighteenth-century gravestones in Ireland are not all of the

primitive kind--many of them being as artistic and well-finished as

any to be found in other parts of the British Isles. The predominant

type is the "I.H.S.," surmounted by the cross, which appears on

probably four-fifths of the inscribed stones of the eighteenth and

early nineteenth centuries in Ireland. The only instances which came

under my notice bearing any resemblance to the incipient notions of

human heads so frequently met with in certain parts of England

were the three here copied (Fig. 91). Nos. 2 and 3 are taken from

gravestones in the old churchyard near Queenstown, and the other

appears in duplicate on one stone at Muckross Abbey by the Lakes of

Killarney.[11] The stately wreck of Muckross Abbey has in its decay

enclosed within its walls the tombs of knights and heroes whose

monuments stand in gorgeous contrast to the desolation which is

mouldering around them; while on the south side of the ancient edifice

is the graveyard in which the peasant-fathers of the hamlet sleep,

the green mounds which cover them in some instances marked by carved

stones taken from the adjacent ruins. Both Abbey and grounds are still

used for interments, together with the enclosure about the little

church of Killaghie on the neighbouring eminence--a church which

(like a few others) enjoys the reputation of being the smallest in the

kingdom.

[Footnote 11: The Muckross stone (No. 1) was overgrown with ivy which

quite covered up the inscription, but its date was probably about

1750. Of the two from Queenstown, No. 2 is to Mary Gammell, 1793, aged

53; and No. 3 to Roger Brettridge, 1776, aged 63.]

[Illustration: FIG. 90. BANGOR, IRELAND.]

[Illustration: FIG. 91. MUCKROSS AND QUEENSTOWN.]

I leave to the ethnologists the task of accounting for these abnormal

carvings in the South of Ireland, and associating them with the like

productions of the same period in the South of England. Or perhaps

I ought rather to excuse my insufficient researches, which, though

spread over a broad area, are yet confined to but a few of the many

spots available, and may very probably have passed by unexplored the

fruitful fields. But, in the words of Professor Stephens, the

apostle of Runic monuments, I claim for this work that it is "only

a beginning, a breaking of the ice, a ground upon which others may

build." My pages are but "feelers groping out things and thoughts for

further examination."

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