CHAPTER XII

THE HOME-COMING

"There are about a dozen different processes which taken together are

known as throwing," explained Henri. "First the silk reeled from the

cocoons must be wound; then cleaned of all gum; picked--which means that

the uneven lumps must be removed; doubled, to make the thread stronger;

twisted, to make it still firmer; rewound; and finally reeled all over

again into silken yarn. Then it is ready to be put into any form

desired, in accordance with orders received from the weaving companies.

Sometimes it is made into what we call _singles_, one thread being given

a twist to make it stronger. Sometimes, as I told you, it is made into

_tram_, two or three threads being twisted lightly together just enough

to hold them; tram, as I said, is used for the filling or woof of woven

materials. Or perhaps _organzine_, which forms the warp threads of woven

goods and is composed of two or as many more singles as desired, is

ordered. Organzine can, of course, be made in any size specified, its

coarseness or fineness varying with the strength necessary; and it can

also be twisted any number of times to make it loose or tight. It must,

however, be twisted in the opposite direction from the twist given it

when the thread is made into singles or else that twist would come out

and do no good. And just here is an amusing point and one that nettles

the American buyers not a little. The moment raw silk is twisted even

once, transforming it into singles, the custom-house officials on the

other side of the water cease to regard it as a raw product although

nothing in the way of actual manufacture has taken place in its

preparation. The difference in its rating makes a difference in the duty

levied on it. Odd, isn't it?"

"How do you come to know all these things, Henri?" demanded Pierre. "You

seem to have studied everything there is to learn about silk."

"Indeed I haven't! But when you hear silk-making talked on every hand

you can't help picking up more or less information about it. Let me be

set down in a weaving mill, though, and I should be ignorant as a baby.

The problems of weaving are not in my line. Here in Pont-de-Saint-Michel

almost every one is employed in the Gaspard filature, or in the throwing

mills; and if not, the people raise silkworms. Since the men have been

called to the colors practically all the work of this big manufacturing

plant is being done by women, boys, and children. The few men we have

who are operating the heavier machines have either been sent home from

the front because they were wounded or else they are not strong enough

to fight. So you see, silk is the language of the whole village."

Henri gave a little shrug to his shoulders.

"It seems as if France must turn out enough silk for herself and all

the world," observed Pierre, motioning to the great bales heaped in a

near-by shipping-room.

"The output is, of course, very small now in comparison with what it

usually is," answered the elder boy. "The war has made a great

difference. Normally France does provide a good share of the world's

silk. But other countries do as much, if not more. For a long time Asia

sent most of the silk to the United States. Labor was very cheap in

China, as well as Canton and Shanghai. The natives, however, employed

very primitive methods in preparing their material and did it very

poorly, often winding the raw silk on bamboo sticks that roughened or

broke it. Frequently the thread would be a mass of dirt and slugs.

Merchants would not stand for this, and now American manufacturers have

gone to China and set up their own filatures equipped with American

machinery."

"How stupid of China to lose a chance like that for trade!"

"The Chinese are the slowest of all the big nations to adopt new ideas,

my father says; but they are waking up. They have been so clever in the

past, and the foremost to discover so many things that it is a pity

others should take from them the fruits of their learning. It is to

China, people say, that we owe the entire silk industry. And careless

preparation of their raw silk has not been their only or greatest

crime."

For a moment Henri paused.

"No. About 1870 the Chinese silk dealers got it through their heads that

what the American manufacturers demanded was a heavy silk thread. Now

instead of selecting more carefully the cocoons from which they wound

their raw silk and reeling it more perfectly, they set their ingenuity

to work to increase the weight of the fibre itself by loading it with

acetate of lead."

"I should think the Americans would have been pretty angry at that!"

"They were. They told the Chamber of Commerce at Shanghai that the

United States would refuse to buy silk of China unless this practice was

stopped. That scared the people, and for a while the adulteration of

the material ceased. But the reform was not for long. From time to time

the natives went back to their old tricks until by and by not only

America, but even the greater part of Europe, got all out of patience

with them. When they finally remedied the evil it was too late. Other

countries had learned the art of silk-raising and had stepped in and

snapped up most of the trade. My father says that now America, which is

the largest silk consumer of the world, buys only about a quarter of her

raw silk from China."

"So the evil-doer does not always prosper," laughed Pierre.

"Evidently not. In contrast to China's actions see what Japan did. That

nation was enterprising enough to cultivate silk and foster its reeling;

and when America sent the Japs machinery they set it up and soon had

tremendous filatures run by their own people. There were thousands of

factories where whole Japanese families were employed in reeling silk

from the cocoons. The Japanese raw silk, however, was not always free

from gum, and in time there was so much complaint about this from

America that conditioning houses were established at Yokohama where the

goods of each Jap merchant were examined and his personal trade-mark

attached to his wares so if they did not come up to the standard they

could be traced back to the owner who shipped them. Now more and more

Japanese silk is sold, and in the main it is good, although America

sometimes complains that it drops below the standard. Certainly no one

can begrudge Japan her prosperity, since she had the wit to grasp her

opportunity for commerce."

"Surely not."

"I think the trading of different nations one with another is all very

interesting, anyway," went on Henri. "Why, we are like one big

family--or ought to be! My father has no patience with war. He thinks we

should try and overlook the other's faults as we do at home, and live

together in peace. We all need each other, and the products peculiar to

each land. No one of us can get on without the rest, for as yet no one

country has been able to turn out everything its people require. It

takes every climate and every national characteristic to bring together

the produce of the globe. Besides, trade brings the different races

closer together. One of the greatest pities of this war is its

interference with commerce through which avenue we were all building up

bonds of universal friendship and sympathy. It stands to reason that we

understand the people of China or America better if we have dealings

with them and meet them sometimes, than if we always stay here in France

and read about them, doesn't it? And surely trade brings about greater

prosperity everywhere."

"It was to bring back to France that prosperity and peace that your

family and mine went to the war," murmured Pierre gently.

"Yes. And if this can be accomplished, and this frightful war be the

last war of the world it will be worth all that we have sacrificed,"

returned the older boy fervently. "But peace is a long time in coming."

He sighed.

"And prosperity will be still longer, I fear," added Pierre soberly.

There was an instant of tense silence.

Both boys were thinking.

"Speaking of commerce," resumed Henri, breaking in upon the serious

tenor of the moment and speaking in his former tone, "you doubtless know

that before the opening of the Suez Canal London was the great raw silk

centre of the world; now our own Marseilles leads, or did before this

fighting began. And we must not leave out Italy when talking of

silk-growing nations, for our neighbors, the Italians, have done as much

if not more silk exporting as has France. You see their climate is ideal

for raising silkworms; and when they are not beset by a plague that

destroys their crops, as it did between 1864 and 1878, the industry

prospers wonderfully with them. The thread from the Italian cocoons

seems to be naturally stronger than ours, and some of the best quality

raw silk in the world comes from small Italian villages. Then, too, of

course Italian labor is cheap. While in France we pay unskilled reeling

operatives from twenty to twenty-five cents a day Italian workmen doing

the same thing get only fifteen or twenty cents. There is not so much

American machinery used in Italy as here, however, and therefore some

merchants in the United States prefer French to Italian thread. But

generally speaking the very finest and highest priced silks made in

America are manufactured from French or Italian material. For many

purposes where less perfect thread is required the Americans use silk

from the East. It is cheaper, and manufacturers cannot afford the more

costly Italian and French thread for everything they make. Importing the

material in bulk, even compactly as it is shipped, is enormously

expensive. For you see there is always the chance of loss in the silk

business."

"Why?"

"Because although silk is necessary in the manufacture of certain

indispensable articles it is for the most part a luxury, and the demand

for it fluctuates. When times are hard people go without silk gowns and

silk stockings; nor do they expend their money in silk, satin, brocade,

or velvet hangings. The fashion, too, has much to do with the demand.

Some seasons women wear only satins and that throws back on the

manufacturers the silks they have on hand; or velvets are worn and the

satins have to be shelved. The vogue of certain colors also often causes

loss. It is a great lottery to be a silk merchant, my father says."

"Certainly the silkworm creates lots of business for people," declared

Pierre smiling.

"And the thread for weaving sarsnet--or sateen, taffeta, satin, and

velvet, as well as providing the fibres for sewing-silk is not all the

little caterpillar gives, either. Had you thought of the oiled silk,

used for a thousand and one purposes? Or of the silk-gut we use near the

hooks of our fish-lines?"

"I fish with just a string," replied Pierre.

Henri chuckled.

"You are not an expert fisherman then, Pierre," he answered. "Still, one

can land a very good fish with a pole and string; I have done it scores

of times. But professional fishermen have a bit of silk-gut to connect

the hook with the line. Not only is it very strong, but it is invisible

when under water. Most of the silk-gut is made in Italy or Spain, the

Spaniards surpassing all others at manufacturing it. Valencia is the

chief centre for the industry."

"And how is it made? Spun from silk fibres?"

"Not at all. You remember how, before the silkworm begins to spin, the

viscid secretion is stored in the two long ducts at each side of the

little creature's body. It is that material which it unites into a

single thread in the spinaret, you know. Well, before the worm has a

chance to spin, it is put into vinegar and this jellied silk is

extracted. It is first soaked in cold water and afterward in a caustic

solution so that its outer covering can be loosened and taken off. Then

the yellowish gum is dried in a shady place and bleached white by means

of sulphur fumes. You can see that it is expensive because so many

silkworms must be sacrificed, and because the thread produced is so

small. Why, I have read that it takes as many as twenty or thirty

thousand strings to make a pound."

Pierre gasped.

"No wonder I don't use silk-gut on my fish-line!" he exclaimed.

In the meantime the boys were passing on amid the stifling atmosphere

and whirling machines.

Suddenly the noon whistle blew and the busy wheels of the mill became

still.

Pierre and Henri were only too glad to emerge with the others from the

close, steamy air of the factory into the coolness of the outdoor world.

Down by the river's bank they unpacked their luncheon, a royal feast,

for Madame Bretton had sent enough food for both hungry boys. They were

in jubilant spirits.

"If I had a line with some silk-gut on it I might perhaps land a trout,"

said Pierre mischievously.

Henri shook his head.

"There are no fish in this stream, because the waste from the mill flows

into it. But some day in the spring, when I have a holiday, I can show

you a brook up in the hills where you can catch as many trout as you

like--silk-gut or no silk-gut," he said.

[Illustration: A ROYAL FEAST]

"There are fishing-holes at Bellerivre, too," retorted Pierre proudly.

"Why should you not make the next visit? You could then see my mother

and my sister Marie; and I could show you our silk-house."

The sounding of the whistle cut short further conversation and warned

the boys that their day together was at an end. Henri had to go back to

the mill and resume work at his machine from which the kindly foreman

had released him in the morning; and Pierre must take his train home.

But what a perfect day it had been!

As the engine hurried him toward Bellerivre Pierre busied himself

thinking how much he would have to tell his mother and Marie. The

village was reached almost before he realized it, and as he descended

from the train he was surprised to find Monsieur le Cure standing on the

platform to greet him.

The face of the priest was pale, and with apprehension Pierre made his

way toward him.

"My son!" was all the old man could say.

Instantly Pierre knew.

"You have bad news, Father," he cried quickly. "It is from the war. Tell

me! Do not fear. I am no longer a child."

Trembling, the kindly friend put a hand on the boy's shoulder.

"It came this morning--the message," he said. "I did not tell your

mother, but waited for you. There has been another great battle and----"

"My father?"

"He is missing, Pierre."

"And Uncle Jacques?"

"He will come no more, my son. He has given his life for France."

[Illustration]

The Story of Silk · 第 12 / 15 章