CHAPTER VIII

PIERRE MAKES A FRIEND

The buyer who came to Bellerivre from the Gaspard silk mills was a

lively little Frenchman whom Pierre had often seen before.

"So it is you, my young friend, who this year raises the cocoons!" cried

the merchant cordially. "Who would have thought it possible? But

yesterday you were a baby in your father's arms. And now----" the little

man shrugged his shoulders. "Eh bien, le bon chien chasse de race! N'est

pas, Madame?"

Madame Bretton smiled.

"The lad is but doing his best to fill his father's place," she answered

quietly.

"That is as it should be with all good French boys, too," the

merchant assented. "And have you ever visited our silk mills at

Pont-de-Saint-Michel? No? Ah, but you should do so. It is only an hour's

journey, and if you are to raise silk you must learn all you can about

it. If I should give you a letter to our foreman would not Madame, your

mother, be willing you should go?"

Pierre glanced up eagerly.

His eyes sparkled.

"Would you, Mother? It would not cost very much, would it?" He turned

apologetically to the silk buyer. "You see," he explained, "in these war

days we must be very saving, for every franc that we can spare goes to

my father and my uncle, who are in the army."

"I know," sighed the agent. "Wherever I go it is the same. All the men

are at the front. But the cost of the trip I suggested is very little,

and I myself should be glad to----"

"No, Monsieur Leclerq," interrupted Madame Bretton. "I know what you

would say, and I thank you; but we are well able to pay Pierre's

expenses to Saint Michel, since you are so kind as to invite him. I am

sure the excursion would more than repay us. It would not be like taking

the money for a mere pleasure tour. Pierre shall go. It will be another

step toward making a silk merchant of him."

"I wish I could go, too," whispered Marie.

"You are not to be a silk merchant, cherie," answered her mother gently.

"We women are the stay-at-homes, who do all we can to help our men

forward in their careers; that is our work."

And so the next day Pierre, very happy and important, and with a large

box of luncheon under his arm, set out upon the train for the

Pont-de-Saint-Michel silk mills. To be going on such a long journey all

alone was a novel undertaking for the lad, who seldom left his own green

valley. It was almost as wonderful as if he were starting for

Marseilles, or indeed Paris itself. The place where he was going did

not, however, possess the glamour of either of these great cities. On

the contrary it was merely a sort of depot or centre to which all the

cocoons bought up in the vicinity were sent to have the silk reeled

from them; there were also at this plant some extensive throwing mills,

but no weaving was done there. Instead the thrown silk was sold to the

great weaving factories at Lyons, Tours, or other silk-making cities of

France; and the raw product was sent to Marseilles, from which market it

was either distributed to French mills or shipped to England or the

United States for manufacture.

The day was a beautiful one. Massive white clouds hung low over the

distant mountains; but the valley was flooded with golden sunshine that

illumined it like some vast search-light. The vineyards never looked

greener, the hillsides more velvety and cool, or the river more

sparkling. Now the train skirted the banks of the stream, now shot past

meadows of fertile farming land; or of a sudden it crossed a noisy

mountain torrent and crept up the hillside until the vegetation became

low and stunted, and the rocky peaks of the Pyrenees seemed but an arm's

length away. Then slowly down over a trestle of airily poised

bridge-work it descended to the valley again. Was ever a journey such a

marvel? To the French boy who had seen little of the outside world it

was an Arabian Night's dream.

All too soon Saint Michel was reached, and Pierre set out for the silk

mills, where he presented the card that Monsieur Leclerq had given him.

Then for a few minutes he waited in a small office where the jar of

machinery and the whirr of wheels caused a monotonous and unceasing

vibration.

Presently a giant foreman with sleeves rolled to the elbow came hurrying

out.

He regarded Pierre with surprise.

"They told me that one of our silk-growers wanted to see me," faltered

he uncertainly. "There has doubtless been some mistake. You are but a

boy."

"I am nevertheless a silk-grower," smiled Pierre modestly. "It is

because the men of our household are in the trenches that I----"

Impulsively the foreman thrust out his hand.

"I too have relatives in the battle line," he said. "My brother and

cousins are there, and I should be with them now were it not for an ugly

wound I got at the Marne. They will not take me back to fight, even

though I have begged to go. And so here I am--restless and half angry

that I must remain boxed up at Saint Michel and make silk instead of

being where the firing is going on. Yet some must stay behind and carry

on the country's industries. Perhaps I can still do my bit here. I have

tried to be philosophical about it and work as hard as I can, for I feel

that those who cannot help in one way can, maybe, help in another."

He glanced at the card Pierre had brought.

"Bretton is your name?"

"Pierre Bretton."

"Monsieur Leclerq says your shipment of cocoons was a good contribution

to the prosperity of France."

Pierre flushed.

"I am glad if it seemed so. We must support ourselves--my mother,

sister, and I--and not be a burden to the country while my father is

away."

"That's the right spirit," answered the foreman heartily. "And so you

want to see your silk reeled off--yours, or somebody's else? Well, you

shall. I am busy myself and so cannot go with you; but Henri, one of our

boys, shall take you with him and tell you all you wish to know. Do not

fear to ask questions if you do not understand, for Henri is well able

to answer them. He knows everything that anybody can about silk

reeling."

As he beckoned to a tall, slender boy who sat at a desk opposite the

foreman smiled kindly down at Pierre.

"Henri," he continued when the employee approached, "I want you to show

this young silk-raising friend of ours, Monsieur Bretton, how we sort

cocoons and reel them off. Tell him everything you can, for he is a

grower and has the right to know."

"Mais, oui, avec beaucoup de plaisir," answered the boy. "I will do my

best." He bowed to the foreman, who, after shaking Pierre by the hand,

turned away. "Now Monsieur Bretton----"

"My name is Pierre. No one ever called me Monsieur Bretton before, and I

do not like it," protested Pierre smiling. "I am but a boy like

yourself. Please call me by my first name--if you do not mind."

Henri beamed on him.

"I should like it much better," he replied cordially. "And I am Henri

St. Amant. Now it is all understood, is it not? Shall we begin then our

journey through the filature? We will go into the sorting rooms first,

where the cocoons that are sent to us are classified. Most of them have

already been cured, or baked, for the majority of our customers do that

for us. When they do not we have to expose the cocoons in our own

ovens."

"Don't most of your cocoons come to you sorted?" questioned Pierre.

"Most of them are roughly classified," nodded Henri. "But the grading

must be much more finely done. Only experts can sort cocoons

thoroughly."

[Illustration: HE LED THE WAY INTO A LONG ROOM]

As he spoke he led the way into a long room, where on every hand girls

were moving in and out among heaps of cocoons that were either piled

high on tables or massed upon squares of canvas on the floor. The room

and everything in it was spotless.

"We try to keep the cocoons from getting soiled, you see," explained

Henri.

"Is the sorting done by girls?" questioned Pierre, astonished.

"Since the war, yes. We have had to train them to take the places of

those who have gone to be soldiers. It is not, of course, heavy work,

but it requires skill and judgment since the many varieties of cocoons

need different treatment. Here, for example, are dupions, or double

cocoons, which as you doubtless already know have more floss on the

outside than do others, and must be well cleaned before any attempt at

reeling can be made. Often they cannot be run off at all because the two

caterpillars that worked together to make the single cocoon have

intertwined the threads until they break all to bits when we try to

separate them. Here is another species of cocoon." Henri pointed to a

pile on the next table. "These are of beautiful texture, smooth and

satiny. But they must be treated with tepid, not hot, water, as are a

good proportion of the others, and the accumulation of gum mixed with

the filament must be soaked out with soap-suds. This will give you an

idea how many things there are to think of in reeling. Some cocoons give

off their silk too easily, and unless put into cool water will snarl;

others fail to give off the thread at all and instead must be treated

with hot water, which aids in loosening it. Another difficulty we

sometimes encounter is that the reelers cannot catch the end of the

thread to begin their work; this usually indicates that the water into

which the cocoons have been put is too cool. On the other hand if the

silk ruffs up and comes off in snarls upon the brush, the matted masses

indicate that the water is too hot. All this the reelers must learn by

experience, and they must learn it, too, without wasting our silk. Two

general laws underlie this feature of silk-reeling: hot water makes the

silk run faster, and cold water retards its progress. Your problem is to

see which treatment your cocoons require."

"Of course those who sort the cocoons can tell nothing of that,"

ventured Pierre.

"Oh, no. The sorters simply put into one place those cocoons that are of

the same kind. The way the cocoons behave in the water is the business

of the reeler. We have tanks or basins of a graduated temperature, and

the operators soon learn into which one to put a cocoon of a certain

type."

"I did not dream one had to know so much just to reel off the silk,"

murmured Pierre. "I had always supposed it would be an easy matter; but

now I see it isn't."

Henri laughed.

"But I have not told you half our troubles yet," he answered

mischievously. "Thus far I have spoken only of the cocoons. In addition

there is the water to consider. That must be the right sort, too. It

must be as pure as we can get it, both chemically and in color. And even

then the high temperature necessary to bring the silk off the cocoons

will cause any sandy sediment there may be in it to rise to the surface

and cut the filament as we reel it off. We have to be prepared for that

emergency as well as the others. And now to return to the sorting of

the cocoons. Do you see that pile over there? Those are what we call

perfect ones. The thread from them will go into the finest quality silks

and satins, as the filament has neither spots nor flaws."

"But those cocoons are very small," objected Pierre.

"Yes. The best cocoons are not always the largest, by any means. It is

quality, not size, that counts." Henri passed on. "Here now," he

continued as he paused before another lot, "are some more pointed at one

end than at the other. We know from bitter experience that they will

reel badly, because the silk which runs smoothly at the beginning will

prove to be weak in some places and break. We toss them aside and reel

them separately. These _cocalons_, as we call this other kind, are also

thrown out because they are hard to wind."

"They are much larger," observed Pierre.

"You are right. Nevertheless they have no more silk on them. The reason

they look bigger is because the worm spun them less compactly; unless

they are put into cold water they will tangle and mat when reeled."

"And that next lot?"

"_Soufflons_? They are the most imperfect cocoon made. The silk is so

loosely spun that it cannot be wound at all, and is good only for

floss."

Pierre shook his head despairingly.

"I thought I knew quite a lot about cocoons," he said. "But by the time

I go home I shall feel I don't know anything. Why, I never could learn

to sort all those kinds if I kept trying for years."

"Only those who have handled thousands of cocoons can," returned his

guide consolingly. "I couldn't begin to do it. Here is a pile now! They

have a hole in the end and cannot be reeled because every time the

thread comes to the perforation it is broken. Probably the moth was

allowed to escape and injured the filament. They must be used for floss,

too, for they are good for nothing else."

The boys wandered on down the room.

"In this pile you will see what we call _good choquettes_," resumed

Henri. "I must tell you about them, for the species is peculiar. The

worm inside them died before finishing its work and stuck onto the

inside of the cocoon." He took one from the heap and shook it. "It does

not rattle, you see. Nevertheless the filament on it is of excellent

quality--not very strong, perhaps, but of fine texture. In contrast to

these good choquettes is this tableful of _bad choquettes_. Like the

others the silkworm died during his spinning, but this time he rotted

away inside, leaving the cocoon black and mottled."

"Healthy worms make the best cocoons, of course," Pierre rejoined.

"Not at all," contradicted Henri. "Here is what is known as a calcined

cocoon made by a worm which had a peculiar disease that turned it to

powder. You would not think that such a creature could spin the best

quality of silk there is, would you? Yet it is so. Listen to the queer

rattle the cocoon has."

Holding it to Pierre's ear he shook it gently.

"These cocoons not only have excellent silk on them, but they have more

of it than if they had been spun by a healthy worm. As a result they

command the highest price and buyers are eager to find them."

"I guess I don't know anything about silkworms or cocoons either,"

announced Pierre in dismay.

Both boys laughed.

"It is amazing how much there is to know about almost anything when you

once start to learn about it from top to bottom," declared Henri. "I

came into this filature when quite young, and it has taken me years to

find out even the little I know now."

"I think you know a lot," Pierre returned admiringly. "I'd be happy if I

knew even half as much."

"Oh, no you wouldn't," was the prompt retort. "You'd want to know a

great deal more, just as I do--that is, if you were any good. There are

a thousand things I want to find out. The silk business, you see, is to

be my trade. I have an uncle in the weaving mills at Lyons, and some

day when I know more he is to find a place for me there. So I am

learning all I can about the classifying and reeling of cocoons; and I

have also raised a few silkworms so as to be familiar with the very

beginnings of the industry. Soon I am to go into the filature to help

with the reeling; and after that they have promised to send me on into

the throwing mills, where the filament is twisted into thread

preparatory to weaving. Then I shall be ready to go to Lyons and see how

silks, satins, and velvets are made. Lyons, you know, is a famous

silk-making city. It was there that Philippe de la Salle, the great silk

designer, lived. Because he did such beautiful work he was decorated by

Louis XVI with the Order of Saint Michel and was given a pension of six

mille livres. Think of that! Alas, such things do not happen now. That

was long ago--between 1723 and 1803. His good fortune did not, however,

last long, for the Revolution came, and the court which gave him his

money went out of power. Still the people of Lyons were proud of him and

despite the fact that he had been a court favorite they provided for

him lodgings in the Palais Saint Pierre, where he lived for the rest of

his life."

"I am afraid I do not know much about what he did," said Pierre with

engaging frankness.

"Why, it was Philippe de la Salle who designed the silk hangings for the

chamber of Marie Antoinette, and who originated the Empire motif of the

wreath of laurel; he also designed silks gorgeous with garlands

intertwined with ribbon; or decorated with baskets of fruit and flowers;

and sometimes he made use of great birds. He has done some of the finest

silk designs ever woven. My uncle told me, however, that years and years

before that wonderful silks were made; and that fragments showing

beautiful designs are in the museums of Berlin and Nuremberg, as well as

in our own Cluny Museum, and the great museums of London. He said there

were also marvelous church vestments of even earlier date and also some

very ancient Byzantine silks splendid with griffins, eagles, and lions.

Some day, perhaps, I shall go to see them, and maybe I myself may learn

to weave such fabrics. Who knows? And what are you going to do,

Pierre?"

"I suppose I shall just go on raising silkworms," was the quiet reply.

"It is hard work, but I see nothing else ahead for me. However, when my

father and uncle return from the war there will be time enough for me to

think what I will do."

"Ah, but you have a plan already; I can see that!" Henri cried.

Pierre nodded gravely.

"Yes, I have a plan--or perhaps I better call it a dream. I should like

to go to America. One can earn more money there. My mother's brother is

at Paterson, New Jersey, which is in America, and I have some young

cousins there also."

"Yes, yes, I know," exclaimed Henri eagerly. "There are great silk mills

at Paterson where they make fine silks and ribbons--some of them as

beautiful as any we make in France. Maybe some day you will go there."

"I'm afraid not," returned Pierre. "Even should the war end and my

father and uncle come home again I have no money to go to America."

"Don't give up so easily," Henri said, placing a hand on the younger

boy's shoulder. "We never can tell what will happen. My mother says that

if we do the best we can every day sometimes the thing we wish most will

come to us; if not, Le Bon Dieu will send something else which may be

even better."

"I am trying to do my best," Pierre answered bravely. "And anyway so

long as my father and uncle are safe nothing else really matters."

The boys exchanged a smile and passed on into the filature, as the

factory where the reeling was done was called.

[Illustration]

The Story of Silk · 第 8 / 15 章