Sale by auction — Dinner and ball — Ride from Alexandria — Rain-water
lakes — Effects of distance — Ancient house — A wonderful Englishwoman —
A midnight serenade — A parting scene — Farewell to Egypt.
While visiting the Minister of Commerce, there took place a sale by
auction of wheat and other grains. About one hundred gentlemen, chiefly
Greeks, made their appearance and sat round on the divan; a little man
of rather curious appearance then entered and, in Italian, announced a
lot of one thousand ardebs of wheat, proposing forty piastres as a just
price. This he shouted out for about ten minutes, when the gentleman who
sat next me cried “Quaranta un quarto,” and after a good deal of
shouting the lot was finally knocked down to him, no one making any bid
either for that lot or any other.
These sales are to dispose of the produce of the land belonging to
Government, and that which comes into its possession in the way of
taxes. The news from England happened to be unsatisfactory, or the
bidding would have been more exciting.
In the evening we joined an English dinner-party; and after our six
months’ experience of boats, deserts and mud houses, as may be readily
imagined, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves over an excellent English
dinner, served in a capital English dining-room, followed by capital
tea, and then “Kathleen Mavourneen,” sung by English ladies in one of
the most elegant drawing-rooms I had ever entered.
We heard that there was also to be a ball—not exactly the entertainment
so familiar to us in England. In Alexandria the company commence dancing
at nine o’clock in the evening, the gentleman of the house locking every
one in at twelve. We heard that five hundred persons had been present,
among whom were Said Pasha and Achmet Bey, the two next heirs to the
vice-regal throne. The supper was furnished by the hotel,—a door having
been broken through the wall of the next house, to assist in effecting
the necessary arrangements.
I left Alexandria the next morning with my dragoman. The road we
followed after crossing the town and adjacent sand-hills led along the
shore of Lake Mariotis, in the mud of which we trotted for three or four
hours, when we came upon the shore of the sea, which is only separated
from the lake by a sea-wall of great size and strength, defended about
every two miles by a martello tower and ten guns, that did not look more
martial than the soldier attached to each looked able to serve the said
guns, had there been a sufficiency of ammunition, of which I did not see
any trace.
About half way there is a ferry across the sea, which in that place
makes an inland lake. Here we rested in a stable. The flies were ten
times more numerous than I had ever seen them in any part of the world,
as they covered every mouthful of fowl in its transit from my plate to
my mouth.
After an animated conflict between us and our horses, which evinced a
most decided objection to being lifted into the ferry-boat, we put off,
and in a few minutes were landed on the opposite bank, and continued our
ride along the shore of the sea. Our horse, being of Arab blood, seemed
to improve every minute; indeed mine put forth decided pretensions to
excellence, which was a good deal at variance with my first impressions
of him, founded on the facility with which he stumbled and fell during
the first few miles of our acquaintance.
We rode on about twelve miles, the south wind blowing like the draft of
a furnace, till we were within eight miles of Rosetta. We went into the
desert guided by black columns every half mile, through deep mud. The
rain has formed a kind of lake in the desert, through which we had to
walk our horses for the last six miles, the water covering at least
twelve square miles of sand.
Rosetta has a picturesque appearance, viewed from a distance, with its
cupola and innumerable minarets peering from among the sand-hills,
covered with palms; but you soon find that—
“’Tis distance lends enchantment to the view!”
On a nearer approach, you are struck with the apparent desolation of the
village. It is large and well-built throughout, of red bricks, with
fantastic balconies and curiously-wrought gable-ends. In all my
perambulations that night and the next morning, I did not meet seventy
people. The houses are almost all without tenants, and a capital
unfurnished dwelling, three stories high, may be purchased for £1 6_s._
The fact is, that Alexandria has destroyed the place, which before the
canal was cleared out was in a most flourishing condition—all the
strangers, all the exports, and most of the imports of Egypt passing
through it.
I thought myself extremely well off in the way of introductions, as I
had a letter to a European gentleman, another to a convent, and a third
to some engineers. They did me very little service, for I found the
gentleman had left home, the convent was deserted, and the engineers had
been discharged, leaving not the slightest trace of their whereabouts.
Having ridden a journey of forty miles in a broiling sun, I was not in
the best possible plight to take such a disappointment patiently. I
retired to a coffee-shop, and with a pipe endeavoured to forget that I
was half-starved, and thoroughly exhausted. My dragoman, whom I had sent
out to forage, returned in about two hours, with the welcome
intelligence of having found a house and procured ample materials for a
feast, in the shape of a couple of fowls, a quarter of a pound of
butter, and a couple of pounds of rice.
The house was a somewhat singular affair, with an imposing exterior,
having a gateway, composed of two granite pillars apparently of the
highly respectable antiquity of Rameses. The apartments were wonderfully
old and dilapidated. It was impossible to walk a step, as the ground was
so full of holes as greatly to resemble the stage of a metropolitan
theatre, with all the trap-doors open.
The state of the house made me a little anxious about the dinner; but,
on inquiring of my host, who possessed an aspect of antiquity
corresponding with his habitation, I was assured that I might set my
mind perfectly at rest upon that point, as his wife was an Englishwoman.
For this announcement, I must own, I was not quite prepared; the
existence of a countrywoman in so remote a place, and under such
circumstances, appeared so startling, that I could not refrain from
making a few inquiries. These elicited the following _facts_.
According to his statement, my host, while travelling in England, had
accidently gone to the Divan of our female Sultan, in the town of
Cherretoo. Here he had fallen in love with the private tire-woman of Her
Most Gracious Majesty, and had married her at once. She was represented
as highly accomplished, and could speak Greek, Turkish, Italian; in
short, was a help-mate to be proud of.
I waited dinner with as much confidence as a good deal of experience in
Oriental exaggeration would permit. In due time it was served. It was
evident at a glance, that in spite of her connection with the great,
Madame Ibrahim expected her guest to eat with his fingers; the fowls,
however, proved so ancient, that it would have spoiled the best blade to
have carved them; I turned to the rice—it floated in rancid butter. My
opinion of my countrywoman fell to a very low ebb; but when I found that
she spoke badly only a few words of English, I readily surrendered the
honour of being her compatriot.
Thoroughly satisfied with the slightest possible portion of her cookery,
I requested to be shown to my sleeping-room, that I might lose all sense
of my chagrin in the repose I needed. I was ushered into a den, where
five sacks of rice, covered with a rug, pointed out to me the
accommodations of my dormitory.
I started from the place, and took refuge in a coffee-shop, where I
tried to amuse myself by playing at dominoes with four Turks, who
cheated me in the most bare-faced manner, and whenever I won a game did
me the honour to insinuate that I could not have played honestly. Having
had enough of this, I resumed my narghileh, and shortly afterwards
retired to my sacks.
I had scarcely been there long enough fully to appreciate my luxurious
couch, when a wild dog, who had, easily no doubt, obtained an entrance
to the house, thrust his nose under my door, and howled after a fashion
peculiar only to such performers. It was loud, shrill, piercing,
melancholy, horrible, and diabolical: it thrilled one’s nerves, set
one’s teeth on edge, made one’s arteries throb, and was eminently
inducive to a fit of raging madness.
For some time I indulged in a little resignation, and a liberal
allowance of imprecations. The cur howled louder than ever. I thought if
I took no notice of him, he must soon get tired of his exertions and
would then quietly walk himself off. He soon proved that he had merely
been trifling with his strength. Maddened by the increasing din, I
shouted at him, in my most menacing voice, to take himself “out of
that,” with the greatest possible dispatch. It seemed then as if he had
suddenly become a Cerberus, and had three throats to howl with instead
of one. I should have got up before, to have stopped his serenade, had I
not known the state of the flooring and the probability if I moved in
the dark, of my disappearing into the rooms beneath at my first step.
The row continuing with, if anything, increased fury, I thought
conciliation might serve me better than force. I therefore cautiously
made my way to the door, on my hands and knees, and invited the noisy
brute to share my accommodations. This brought peace. He at once took
possession of my bed, with the confidence of one who knows his own
rights, and I was left to my own reflections, till daylight and Daireh
made their appearance.
I left Rosetta without much sorrow, and rode rapidly back to Alexandria,
admiring as I rode along the numerous wild flowers that beautified my
path. I counted fifteen varieties, among which were marigolds, poppies,
daisies, geraniums and orchises; they were so abundant that the air was
full of their fragrance.
The Indian Mail had at last arrived from Suez, and with many warm shakes
of the hand to our European friends, whose sympathy and kindness had
already given us a taste of home, we stepped on board the small harbour-
boats, and were rowed towards our steamer. We found that the same vessel
which had brought us to Africa was destined to carry us thence.
Our faithful servants were with us to the last moment, and as they
respectfully, yet most affectionately, kissed our hands, let more than
one tear fall upon them. Mahomet was so affected, that he could hardly
be persuaded to present himself for the final leave-taking. At last they
quitted us, and covering their faces as they descended into their boats,
were rowed away.
Let me here recommend to all travellers in the East, these three most
faithful domestics. Left alone with us in a position in which, perhaps,
no dragoman was ever left before, they behaved in a way which has
greatly raised the Arab character in our estimation, and left us a
recollection of services never to be erased from our memory.
It may be useful to add, that they can always be heard of from Mr.
Walne, Her Majesty’s Consul at Cairo, or from the master of the Hôtel de
l’Europe.
A very picturesque scene the calm harbour of Alexandria presented on
that last afternoon. The beautiful French mail-steamer was just loosing
her cables and getting up her steam; the ‘Ripon’ from England was
unloading her cargo of boxes into barges towed by government boats,
manned by a dozen white clad sailors; a handsome French sloop-of-war lay
close beside us: there were graceful vessels in every direction, and the
most glorious of sunsets filled both sky and sea with splendour as far
as the eye could penetrate.
Whilst Egypt was putting forth this brilliant aspect, we were forced to
take our farewell. Presently we sailed out of the harbour; in time the
glowing shore faded from our view, and then we again began to think of
that home to which our thoughts had been so constantly directed during
the whole of the latter portion of our tour.
* * * * *
Since the foregoing pages were printed, there has appeared in the
_Constitutionnel_ a long note bearing date, Constantinople, Sept. 4,
1851, addressed by the Sublime Porte to the Viceroy of Egypt, of which
my readers have, no doubt, seen a translation in some of the English
journals. The object of the document is to administer a sharp reproof to
Abbas Pasha, for having presumed to enter into an arrangement with an
English engineer to construct a railway in Egypt, without the
authorization of the Imperial Government at Constantinople, and, in
plain terms, to inform the Viceroy that he must not only have that
authorization before such an undertaking can be permitted, but before he
can obtain this, that he must prove to the satisfaction of the Imperial
Government, that the revenues of the country show a sufficient surplus
to meet the necessary expenses for the construction of the railway, and,
moreover, enter into a formal guarantee that no new taxes shall be
levied on the inhabitants to meet such a contingency—that the present
taxes shall not be increased for the same purpose—that the people should
not be compelled to labour gratuitously in the works, and that no loan
for it shall be contracted, or assistance obtained from foreign
companies.
In other words, and in a style indicating that this communication
proceeded from the most paternal government in the world, it attempts to
throw so many obstacles in the way of this grand enterprise as to amount
to a prohibition. Knowing how much _real_ interest the Sultan has shown
for the prosperity of the Egyptian people, and with what unceasing
jealousy he has watched the exertions of their rulers for their
advancement in wealth and intelligence, it is not difficult to
appreciate his present interposition.
In some instances a reference to the charity that begins at home has an
immense significance, and this possibly may be one of them; but surely
the indifference of the Government of Constantinople to the designs of
Mehemet Ali, that were carried on with a total disregard to all human
interests but his own, ought to have been considered sufficient
authority to his successor for carrying out the boldest and wisest
undertaking that has ever been heard of in Egypt. The construction of
the railway from Alexandria to Cairo is absolutely bringing one of the
least civilized of Eastern nations to a participation in some of the
greatest advantages enjoyed by the more advanced of the Western nations.
Its importance to England it is scarcely possible to exaggerate. And
here lies the true reason and cause of the document to which I have been
referring.
Our estimable neighbours on the other side of the Channel do not regard
our intimate relations with Egypt, and the facilities we there possess
for expediting our communications with our Indian empire, with that
amiability which distinguishes them on other occasions; it is presumed
that they would very gladly put an end to them, and bring about a state
of things as nearly as possible resembling what they have effected in
Greece and Spain. This object was steadily held in view by the Marquis
de Lavalette, while Consul-General of France in Egypt, for he there made
himself conspicuous by his opposition to everything that the Egyptian
Government contemplated, which he thought in any way conducive to the
interests of Great Britain. For these patriotic exertions he has since
been appointed Minister of France at Constantinople.
The Turkish Government, it is now evident, have not turned a deaf ear to
his representations, insinuations, and suggestions—the usual
ambassadorial artillery. The Sultan has been prevailed upon to declare
his opposition to the railway, which must be of such vast consequence to
the future prosperity of Egypt and—of England; and the declaration has
been made in language that does honour to French diplomacy.
It now remains for our own Government to ascertain _precisely_ the
intentions of the ministers of the President of France, to whom they
have so disinterestedly afforded their support; and I sincerely trust
they will see the necessity of upholding the cause of Abbas Pasha, in a
manner becoming the dignity of the British empire.
* * * * *
As these sheets have for the second time passed through the press, I
take advantage of the opportunity this affords me, of bringing my hasty
narrative of Egyptian affairs down to the present time.
The representations of M. de la Fayette exercised so much influence over
the Turkish Government, which had for several years been jealously
watchful of every proceeding of the Egyptian Viceroy, that it seemed
disposed to exercise its superiority in a manner as offensive to him, as
it could by any possibility be made. I believe that Sir Stratford
Canning, our able Ambassador at Constantinople, made some efforts in
behalf of Abbas Pasha; but either they were not sufficiently energetic
to influence the Sultan, or the determination of his ministers to pursue
a policy of the most stringent character, with their Sovereign’s
powerful vassal, was too resolute to be easily shaken, and the Imperial
Government appeared bent on its course, of making the Pasha a cypher in
his own province.
The intention of the Sultan to stop the proposed railway in Egypt,
created considerable excitement in England, particularly among the
mercantile community. A public meeting was held in London on the 14th of
October last, in which resolutions were passed expressive of its
sympathy with Abbas Pasha. The extent to which the suppression of the
railroad would affect English interests, and the propriety of this
country interposing to prevent the enlightened ruler of Egypt being
deprived, by the jealousy of the Turkish ministers, of those powers
which his family had been permitted to exercise since they had held the
government of the country, became so generally understood and widely
canvassed, that the stir thus created, reached our minister at the
Turkish capital, and his representations to the Sublime Porte grew more
urgent. The result was, that the construction of the railroad was
permitted under certain conditions, which, however, if strictly
followed, would render its completion impossible. In consequence of this
limited approval, English engineers of eminence have since been employed
in deciding upon the best line, and in making arrangements for
conquering the difficulties that lay in the way of its formation.
The most offensive feature in the restrictions which the Government of
the Sultan seeks to lay upon the rule of the Pasha, took the shape of
the _Tanzimat_—a law by which the Imperial Government would deprive the
Pasha of his right of inflicting the punishment of death, in his own
dominions. As such a law would deprive Abbas Pasha of all respect among
Arabs, Nubians, and Egyptians, the Pasha has hitherto evaded every
attempt to introduce it into Egypt.
If forced into a struggle with the Imperial Government on this point, he
looks for assistance from this country: nor ought he to look for it in
vain. It is almost impossible to over-estimate the importance of our
upholding the cause of a ruler who has it in his power to advance the
interests of this country to an incalculable extent. Public opinion has
declared itself in his favour. Of this he has been made aware in a
manner that evidently afforded him the highest satisfaction; for on the
27th of December last, a deputation from the public meeting, to which I
just now referred, headed by Arthur Anderson, Esq., M.P., waited on the
Pasha, by appointment, at his palace of Abbasia, to express the
sentiments of that meeting, and the feeling of the English people
generally. His Highness received the deputation with unusual
distinction, and expressed his great satisfaction at the sympathy for
his position, of which the communication he had just heard, assured him.
Not the smallest of the marvels of 1851, is the fact of some two or
three gentlemen, proceeding from their quiet English homes to the coast
of Africa, to express to the Sovereign of a scarcely civilized State,
the compliment which had been paid to him in a meeting of London
merchants. Abbas Pasha, however, is well worthy of such embassies: and
we trust that the people of this country will prove in a still more
demonstrative manner, when a proper occasion occurs, their appreciation
of his services in the cause of civilization and commerce.
THE END.
LONDON:
Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street.
Transcriber's note:
pg 22 Changed: "behind in our datrabeeyehs" to: "dahabeeyehs"
pg 60 Changed: "at Carnac and Aboosimhel" to: "Aboosimbel"
pg 65 Changed: "where-ever there is a promise of food" to: "wherever"
pg 76 Changed: "To day being Christmas-day" to: "To-day"
pg 91 Changed: "bananas, promegranates, and cream-fruit" to:
"pomegranates"
pg 112 Changed: "immense stores of vory" to: "ivory"
pg 120 Changed: "hermetrically-sealed boxes purchased" to:
"hermetically-sealed"
pg 161 Changed: "made by the Governmen of Egypt" to: "Government"
pg 162 Changed: "in many intances boys of good" to: "instances"
pg 195 Changed: "collection of household gods, pitchers" to: "goods"
pg 237 Changed: "not likely to supserede steam" to: "supersede"
pg 262 Changed: "had nothing to to boast of" to: "nothing to boast"
pg 277 Changed: "CHAPTER XVI." to: "CHAPTER XVIII."
pg 298 Changed: "dinner with as much confidenee" to: "confidence"