“I feel indeed flattered because somebody thought that I have the whole

Roman world, with Poppæa and Nero and Augustus and all the rest, under

my hat, yet, when I come to think of it, there is some difference

between us two. _My_ children know their papa, and I know Susan, Clara,

and Jean. But think what happened to Mommsen the other day. He was

proceeding to a bus from his residence, when an unmannerly wind carried

off his hat. A boy, playing in the street, picked it up and brought it

to the great man. (By the way, never run after your own hat--others

will be delighted to do it. Why spoil their fun?)

“‘Thank you,’ said Mommsen. ‘I never could have recovered the hat

myself.’ He looked the boy over carefully, and added:

“‘And a nice little boy. Do you live in the neighborhood? Whose little

boy are you?’

“‘Why,’ said the kid, ‘mamma says I am Professor Mommsen’s little boy,

but I never see him. He is always among the Romans, writing in a book.’

“‘Bless your heart, little man,’ said Mommsen. ‘To-night I will surely

be home early; tell your mamma, and ask her to introduce you and the

other children properly.’”

MARK, DOGS, DAGOES, AND CATS

Mark never tired telling of the Italian literary shark who

unsuccessfully tried to blackmail him out of twenty francs.

“He had a peculiar grievance, that Dago,” said Mark. “He vocalized

to the effect that he had done me the honor to call four times at my

villa and that, just as often, he came near losing the seat of his

pants by the actions of my degraded dogs, who drove him off. Hence, he

calculated that I owed him at least five francs per visit, on account

of his trouble and the anxiety he suffered. But as I kept no dogs,

neither degraded nor otherwise, my dogs couldn’t have worried the man.

And he wasn’t on my visiting list anyhow.”

“Somewhere,” continued Mark, “I put on record that I know the business

end of a horse very well, but I never bothered enough about dogs to

make sure of their anatomy. Pussy is the animal for me. You remember

my adventures in Koernerstrasse No. 7, Berlin. The women took that

apartment in Slumland over my head, and lured me to approve of their

choice by having two purring cats on the hearth, when I first saw the

place. I simply can’t resist a cat, particularly a purring one. They

are the cleanest, cunningest, and most intelligent things I know,

outside of the girl you love, of course.”

THE TRAGEDY OF GENIUS

On October 13, 1891, Mark Twain and I went together to the Berlin

University to see the great Virchow lionized and almost deified by his

fellow professors and by the students. Mark was much impressed and

promised to give Virchow a good send-off in his correspondence. And on

the way home he waxed almost sentimental, saying: “Virchow is seventy

years old. In a little while he will either be dead or that great

intellect of his will begin to deteriorate, and what a pity that would

be!

“There was Emerson, who valued impressions and ideas above

everything--in his way as great a man as Virchow and certainly a great

benefactor of his countrymen. But Holmes told me that in the late

seventies of his long life, facts counted no longer with Emerson, for

his memory was gone. At Longfellow’s funeral, which preceded his own

by a few months only, Emerson walked up to the coffin twice, probably

forgetting the second time that he had already gazed upon his late

friend’s face. When he had taken this last farewell, he came back to

his seat and said to the person nearest to him:

“‘That dead man was a sweet and beautiful soul, but I have completely

forgotten his name.’

“For myself,” concluded Twain, “I have forgotten many a thing, but I

will never forget that little speech of poor old Emerson. _Sic transit

gloria mundi_--such is the way of the world, a free translation, I

know, but highly applicable.”

KILTIES AND THE LASSIE

“I heard a good one on a young Scotchman, a fellow who was always

trying to show off in kilties. By the way, Andy Carnegie told me

about him. This young Scot, with some other chaps, went on a tramp of

the lakes of Scotland, and young Douglas had a good time showing off

his fine calves--talked about them and made comparisons with other

well-known legs, of actresses, bishops, dancers, etc. (In England all

bishops wear knickers, you know.)

“At night the boys put up at a rather dilapidated inn, neither clean

nor promising other creature comforts. But the girl who waited on them,

maid or scullion, was a dandy--blonde and blue-eyed, rosy-cheeked and

sturdy of arm and leg.

“As she flitted in and out of the room, bringing whiskey and

water, cheese, bread and dried fish--that was all the bill of fare

afforded--the travelers’ eyes followed her, and when she left the room

there was many a knowing wink. Douglas got jealous of the attention

bestowed on Miriam.

“‘What is there to go daft over?’ he demanded peevishly.

“‘Well,’ said they in chorus, ‘for one thing, she has better legs than

you, Douglas.’

“Douglas hotly denied the imputation. There was an argument, and it was

finally agreed that the two be measured. If Douglas lost, he must pay

for the night’s reckoning.

“Accordingly, Douglas was put to the tape, and the girl also. Miriam

had a few more inches of calf, but the Scotchman was undaunted. ‘Have

you ever seen finer thighs than mine?’ he boasted.

“The lad who had been doing the measuring got flustered, but the girl

laughed:

“‘Don’t be afeerd, Laddie; the higher you go the bigger they grow. I’ll

be the winner.’

“And she was,” said Mark, with a chuckle of evident approval.

A WISE PROVISION OF PROVIDENCE

From a window at the Hotel de Rome, Mark and friends were “reviewing”

the ceremonial entry of the King of Italy in Berlin.

“Fine horse-flesh,” Mark kept saying, “and the gee-gees look better fed

and happier than all that bedizened and beribboned royalty.”

“What’s that string of riders following the ‘four-poster’” (Mark’s

description of a state coach), “tied to the twelve horses? They seem to

sport every conceivable uniform, Horse, Foot, and Artillery!”

“Those are the German kings and kinglets,” it was explained.

“Let’s count them,” said Mark.

They counted some twenty crowned heads, “young, old, and

mouse-colored,” said our friend, as he retired from the window and

attacked the coffee and cake. He sat musing for a while, but when

somebody suggested “billiards,” he became alert as usual.

“I have been thinking,” he said--“thinking of wise Providence. Just

fancy that Providence had run the Equator through Europe, instead of

through the Pacific, or wherever it is now. If the Equator happened to

be located in the Old World, each of the kings we have seen, and more

to be heard from, would be itching and grabbing for it, pouring out

their subjects’ blood like water (saving their own, of course) to get

hold of the blamed thing. I would make them _sit_ on it. Hot dogs.”

THE AWFUL GERMAN LANGUAGE

In the Berlin of 1891, street-car conductors gave you a ticket for

every mile traveled, and you were expected to keep all these tickets or

slips of paper in apple-pie order to show to an inspector who might,

or might not, come around. Mark regularly threw his on the floor, and

dropped cigar ashes on them. Accordingly, he had to pay double fare

every little while, and was abused into the bargain.

One afternoon, going to the Legation, we got into an old, rather narrow

bus, and opposite Mark sat a woman with an enormous bosom.

“What do you bet she takes No. 52. corsets?” he whispered. “She grew

that as a shelf for her bus tickets,” he continued. “If I had a

‘chester’ like that, I could save money.”

After a pause, he turned suddenly on me:

“What is bust in German?”

“Busen,” I translated.

“Male, female, or neuter?”

“Male--der Busen.”

He began slapping his knees with both hands, waggled his head from one

side to the other, and laughed till the tears ran down his cheeks. But

he never said another word on that trip.

Two months later the lecture, “The Awful German Tongue,” was delivered.

But at the embassy we knew it almost by heart before he came out with

it, for he was forever talking genitive case, declinations, definite

and indefinite articles, and male, female, or neuter.

ARTIST OR PHOTOGRAPHER

Mr. Clemens had met Lenbach, the eminent German painter, in Vienna,

and when, a year or two afterwards, I ran across Mark in Munich, he

proposed that we call at Lenbach’s studio. So to Akademie Strasse we

went, and duly admired Lenbach’s collections. “Mostly painted kaisers,

kings, and kinglets, also one man, W. K. Vanderbilt,” was Mark’s

estimate. I saw Lenbach eye Clemens with business in his heart. Mark

saw it too. “Wonder if he intends to throw me on the linen, I mean the

canvas,” he whispered, while Lenbach was busy in another part of the

shop.

“It would increase his popularity immensely,” I sotto voce’ed back.

Lenbach returned--with a camera, and as Mark looked puzzled, Lenbach

explained: “I always get every possible angle I can of the persons I

want to paint. Now, if you will just stand still, Mr. Clemens, for a

little while, I will be ever so much obliged.”

And Lenbach made the rounds of Clemens, who had taken off his overcoat,

more than once, photographing every important bit of anatomy, back,

sides, front, arms, legs, ear, full face, back of head, cheeks, hands,

eyes, etc.

“They told me in Vienna that Lenbach was an artist,” commented Mark

when we gained the sidewalk. “As you saw, he is merely a photographer.

Glad I never went to pieces over his art with a capital A.”

Whether the painting was ever undertaken by Lenbach I don’t know,

but it would be immensely interesting to get those plates from the

“photographer’s” studio.

MARK INTERVIEWED THE BARBER ABOUT HARRY THAW

During his last visit to London, Mark called me up one morning and

said: “My arm aches and I can’t do it myself, so for God’s sake, take

me to a barber who can scrape one’s face without taking half the hide

off. I am getting mighty tired of being flayed alive in this here burg.”

Accordingly we drove down to the Cecil in the Strand.

“I understand you are the man who treats a delicate skin like an

American beauty rose,” said Mark to the barber.

“I will treat yours, Mr. Clemens, as if it were a butterfly. For I

have read what you have said about Italian barbers,” was answered. And

the things that happened to Mark’s face, head, hands and feet while in

the chair would fill a column of “The Times” to enumerate. He remained

two hours in the chair, and was not allowed to pay a red penny for the

accommodation.

Later, at a well-known grillroom, we saw the massage artist alone at a

table, and seated ourselves at the same board. The barber talked about

other American celebrities and notorieties he had treated and mentioned

Thaw.

“Oh, you shaved Harry--tell me about it,” said Mark.

When the barber had finished, Mark insisted, looking fiercely at me:

“Not a word of this in New York, or there will be another dozen Thaw

trials.”

As Harry Thaw is now disposed of, temporarily, at least, it won’t do

any harm to print Mark’s interview with the barber.

It seems that Harry and Evelyn occupied a suite at the Cecil before

they made that notorious exhibition of themselves in New York. Harry

was an early riser and Evelyn was not, and when the barber called at

eight, as ordered, Evelyn either had to be put out of bed forcibly by

Harry or remained under the covers (for a time at least).

“And could you do your barbering and currycombing with that pretty

thing within arm’s length?” asked Mark.

“I had to,” said the barber. “I was paid for it; besides, there was a

terrible horsewhip on the bed and a revolver in an open drawer.

“Harry insisted upon smoking while I wielded the razor, and I had the

greatest difficulty in the world not to cut him. He also insisted upon

quarreling with Evelyn or lauding her beauty while my knife played

around his mouth. This sort of thing went on for a week or more, when

one fine morning I saw that Harry had rigged up a shooting stand in the

hall of the apartment.

“‘Close the door,’ he cried, ‘and pull the curtains across. I don’t

want the servants to hear.’ Then he began firing at the target. Evelyn

had been asleep, and hearing shots, jumped out of bed and began

crying: ‘My God!’ and ‘Mamma;’ likewise promised ‘never to do it

again.’”

“Never to do _what_ again?” asked Mark.

“I don’t know, sir.”

“But you were right next to her; why didn’t you ask her?” insisted Mark.

“But it was her private business,” said the barber.

“Sure it was, but that was so much more reason for worming it out of

her. You are a good barber, but a h---- of a reporter.”

“Of course, the floor attendants came trooping to Thaw’s door and the

house telephone and speaking tubes emitted a volley of questions.

“Harry was prepared to give an impertinent though truthful answer. But

Evelyn took the phone in hand and swore that it was an accident, due to

her carelessness--Harry had nothing to do with it, and she was going to

apologize to the management. When things had quieted down, Thaw told me

on the d. q. that he would transfer his revolver practice to a certain

shooting gallery. ‘I want to be an A No. 1 shot when I return to New

York,’ he said. ‘There is a fellow who has deeply wronged my girl and I

am going to have it out with him.’”

HIS PORTRAIT--A MIRROR

“People wonder why I spend so much time abroad,” said Mark Twain at a

little luncheon party in Vienna, where young wine, fresh from the vat,

circulated freely. “One of the reasons is that I have no doubles in

foreign countries, while in the States I had notice served on me twice

a month on the average that I look exactly like Mr. Cobbler Smith or

Mr. Bricklayer Brown. I was told they had the very same warts, in the

very same places, where I sport them--accuracy or imagination, which?

The day before I left New York I got a letter of that sort and, having

booked passage and nothing to fear, I made bold to answer it.

“‘My dear Sir,’ I wrote. ‘I was so much impressed by the resemblance

that I bear your face, feet, hands, mustache, eyelids, ears, hair,

eyes, eyebrows, cheeks, and other things, that I had the portrait of

yourself you so kindly enclosed framed, and hereafter I shall use it in

place of a mirror when I shave.’”

“Wife never saw that letter,” added Mark. “She was packing.”

MARK, BISMARCK, LINCOLN, AND DARWIN

I had been to see Bismarck to help boom Bryan for the Presidency, when

that gentleman happened to get defeated for the Senate.

“And is old Bismarck still reading those trashy French novels?”

inquired Mark.

“Much worse,” I said.

“Started Paul de Kock over again?”

“Worse still. He is reading Mark Twain now.”

“You don’t say. Since when the reform?”

“Since his daughter-in-law, Herbert’s wife, the little Countess Hoyos,

gave him a set for Christmas.”

“Hoyos, Hoyos. I met some people of that name in Italy.”

“Your fair patroness hails from Trieste, or neighborhood.”

“How do you know that Bismarck not only owns, but reads, my books?”

demanded Mark.

“Because he asked me whether there are still steamer loads of Yankees

going picnicking in Palestine with Mark Twain for a bear-leader. The

old Prince told me he read ‘Innocents Abroad’ twice, and memorized the

best things in it to relate to his grandchildren.”

“Quite a compliment--I _do_ wish Bismarck hadn’t been such a rascal--in

politics, I mean--for in private life he was quite a gentleman, I

understand. And it is to laugh how, relying on that, de Blowitz worked

the greatest of scoops during the Berlin Congress. Namely, about that

world-moving affair the ‘London Times’ for weeks could get no more or

better news than, mayhap, the Brighton Enterprise. Finally de Blowitz,

the Thunderer’s international representative, lit upon a fourth-rate

secretary in the German foreign office, who had an exceedingly broad

appetite and a correspondingly narrow pocketbook. De Blowitz offered to

pay for the secretary’s luncheons, provided the young gentleman would

exchange hats with him daily, the Berliner’s chapeau concealing certain

notes about goings on at the foreign office under the hat band. Agreed!

By this ruse de Blowitz gathered the whole Berlin treaty piecemeal and

was able to cable it from Brussels to London even before that famous

document was read in the Congress.”

Mark continued: “If Bismarck had been the ordinary small-minded

statesman, he would have got on to de Blowitz’s game before it was half

finished, but being a gentleman, he saw nothing out of the way in the

association of ‘The Times’ correspondent with one of his secretaries.”

Mark was genuinely proud of Bismarck’s partiality for his books, even

if it came late in the day.

“Do you know,” he once said, “that I gave Charles Darwin the strength

to write some of his most famous and epoch-making volumes? How? I am

told that, when the great scientist was utterly fagged out with study,

investigation, and with the manifold experiments he was carrying

on, he would read my ‘Innocents’ or ‘Tom Sawyer’ or, maybe a Harper

Magazine story, for a half hour or an hour. Then he would go to work

again and later was ready for bed. Only when this here Mark Twain had

lulled his nerves into proper condition, Darwin wooed sleep, I am told,

but I can’t vouch for the truth of this story.”

On another occasion Mark said: “I was born too late to help ease

Lincoln’s hours of worry. Ward Hill Lamon, whom we met in Berlin, told

me more than once that Lincoln would have been a constant reader of my

‘literature’ if he had lived long enough to enjoy my books, and none

knew Lincoln better than Lamon.

“And when my girls admonish me to behave in company, it always recalls

the stories Lamon told me about old Abe’s awkwardness.

“When Abe and he were riding circuit in Illinois, they carried their

office in their hats, and Abe contracted the habit of pulling off his

hat from the back so as not to spill any papers. That was all right

on the circuit, but in the White House it looked undignified. So Mrs.

Lincoln asked Lamon, a most courtly gentleman, to remonstrate with the

President and teach him to take off his hat ‘decently.’ ‘Decently’ was

the word she used, said Lamon. He continued:

“‘I did my best during a night’s smoker, Mr. Seward helping me, and

the President proved a good enough scholar for any high-school of

courtesy. Eight or ten times he took off his hat properly, without

a reminder of any sort. Then, at the good-night, I tried him again.

‘Let’s do it in the right courtly fashion,’ I said, doffing my chapeau

like the Count of Monte Cristo.

“‘Here goes,’ said the President, reached his right hand back, and

pulled off his stovepipe in the old Illinois circuit style.”

“You see,” concluded Mark, “it was no use trying to make a courtier of

Lincoln. The same here.”

MARK AT THE STOCK EXCHANGE, VIENNA

A day or two after I sent Clemens my translation of Field Marshal Count

Moltke’s Letters, he called at my hotel in the forenoon and proposed

that we walk to the stock exchange. The stock exchange, as usual, was

swarming with gentlemen of the Jewish persuasion, and Mark asked me to

pay particular attention to them.

“They are the smartest of the lot here,” he insisted, “and so is

a Jewish peddler smarter than a Christian house-owner--I mean the

average. I say it again; the Jews are the greatest people let loose.

“According to Moltke’s essay in the Letters you sent me, the Jews ate

up Poland. Very well, the storks eat up frogs. Do we blame the storks?”

MARK AND THE PRUSSIAN LIEUTENANT

Mark liked to be taken around to real German places, and one day

I escorted him to a Weinstube Unter den Linden, which had quite a

reputation for liquid and other refreshments. The room we entered was

full of lunchers; we sat down at a small side table that afforded a

good look around. About fifteen feet ahead of us was a pier glass on

the wall between two windows, and in front of it a table where an old

man with his frau were eating the national dish with sausage trimmings.

The old folks were enjoying themselves heartily, and, as Mark put it,

“they ate so you can hear them a mile off, like Chicago millionaires.”

Presently, a young lieutenant strode in, sword trailing, spurs jingling.

“Look at that,” said Mark. “All the stupidity and maliciousness of his

ancestors, male and female, for two hundred years back, is mirrored in

his face.”

The junior war lord stalked up the centre aisle, gave his cap to

a bowing waiter, and stood up in front of the pier glass. Then he

pulled a comb out of one pocket and a brush out of another, and began

“currycombing himself,” as Mark expressed it. Parting his hair all the

way down to the neck, he brushed it sideways both ends--over the old

people’s sauerkraut and sausages. Mark kicked at me under the table

and called me names for not going and knocking the fellow down.

“Don’t you see, he’s peppering those people’s dinner with his

dandruff,” he said. “Be a sport and go and kick him well, young fellow.”

But I knew better. The lieutenant would have spitted me on the end of

his sword before I could say Jack Robinson.

Gradually Mark’s wrath melted away and he saw only the funny side of

the affair. When the lieutenant had taken his seat at the table, he put

one knee over the other and ordered his pea soup on the rough--that is,

with the husks intact.

“Husks are filling, you know,” said Mark, “or perhaps his stomach is

full of chickens. Chicks like husks; that lieutenant is human, after

all.”

I thought we had seen enough and I encouraged him to go home.

“Oh, no,” he said. “I am going to see this circus to the end. Presently

that old woman will vomit when one of the lieutenant’s bristles tickles

her funny bone, and then she will spew all over his boots and pants. I

am waiting for that.”

MARK STUDIES THE COSTERMONGER LANGUAGE

“Funny that we never took to asses in New York and other parts of the

States,” said Mark one afternoon as we were passing through Soho,

London. He was watching the little costermonger carts traveling to

and fro with considerable speed, taking into account the petty draft

animals, the heavy loads and the boy or girl perched on top.

“The donkeys seem well fed,” mused Clemens a block or two further on,

“but I don’t like a whip in the driver’s hand. Hear that,” he cried

indignantly, “the rude way that corduroy-panted chap is talking to his

meek donkey. Let’s listen some more. It’s a scream.”

After the cart had driven away, Clemens said: “The patter of the

costermonger, when you come to think of it, is really a language

within the English language, and one might do worse than give it

printed tongue--_i. e._, raise it above the merely occasional use

British writers accord it. I want to look into that costermongery,” he

continued. “See if you can’t find, hire or steal some coster chap worth

listening to, some one who knows the patter with all the trimmings.”

And at his door he added: “Get an ‘Arriet,’ for the ‘Arry’s’ are too

tough.”

A week or two later Herbert Beerbohm Tree found us such a patter artist

among the employees of Her Majesty’s Theatre--a scrub lady--and here

follow some of the stories she told us, corrected and amended by Mark,

who cut out coster words not generally understood.

MARK AND THE COSTERMONGERS

That _Beautiful_ Funeral

Two Girls Meeting at the Corner of a Street.

“Hullo, I didn’t know you had moved up this way again. Who are you in

black for?”

“Stepfather. Thank Gowd! he _was_ a reg’lar log on the fambly’s leg.

Kept a-ebbing and a-flowing and _wouldn’t_ die. But you know when we

moved to ’Ampsted, that settled him. Those flu winds it was as took ’im

off.

“We ’ad a postmortem and everything on ’im, and when they opened ’im

you know they found he had two ulsters in his inside and there was

’aricot veins in his legs too. But it was the influential winds that

took ’im off, real.

“Of course Mother ’ad ’im insured in all sorts of places. So, poor man,

he real paid for all this beautiful mourning we are having on him. We

all dress alike in this beautiful black.

“On the funeral day we had all our cousins up from up-country and we

had such a _beautiful_ funeral and such a swell party atter. We had a

hotch-bone of beef and blanmanges and jellies and cakes and tarts, and

by Gowd! we did enjoy ourselves.

“Good-by, Maisie, see you another day, for my missus isn’t a

disagreeable old cat like most of ’em. That’s why I ’ave this bit of

talk with you. But I means to better myself soon as I can.”

Ada’s Beast of a Man

“Well, m’am, I feels all over alike. That beast of a ’usband of my

pretty pet of a Ada he wouldn’t let her have a van to move in when she

had all that sweep of furniture that he bought for her at the market

for five pounds ($25) and her chest of drawsers besides. Real, I don’t

feel as if I could eat a bit, I don’t.

Abroad with Mark Twain and Eugene Field · 第 4 / 10 段