and I went off in a carriage to the Hermitage (the great Museum). W.
sent in his card to the Director of the Museum and also to the head of
the Cabinet des Medailles, as he wants a week's work at the medals. It
seems there is a splendid collection here. The gentlemen were very
civil, and we made rendezvous for to-morrow, W. for the medals and
Richard and I for the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum.
We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it. We walked
through some of the rooms--Peter the Great's gallery, which is full of
course of souvenirs--his clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed,
etc., and in another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and
presents given to Peter and Catherine II--a collection of snuff boxes,
crystal flagons, and goblets (some with precious stones encrusted in the
glass), jewelled belts and caps--most interesting.
We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of one of the rooms.
It rushes past like the sea, so broad and strong, with very fair waves,
a splendid river. We stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms,
and then went on for a general view of the city. It is very handsome,
but has no particular cachet (except the Neva) at this season of the
year--one ought to see it in winter when the river is frozen and the
real winter life begins. It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to
the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing as a mass,
but the architecture not very striking--afterwards to the fortress and
church of St. Peter and St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried--to
Peter the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building), drove
a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh breeze from the river
was most welcome and invigorating after the heat and dust of Moscow.
There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all kinds. We think
of going by steamer to Stockholm, all along the coast of Finland. They
tell us it is a beautiful journey, particularly at this time of year,
with the long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we decide,
as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean (they say the boats on
the rivers Volga, etc., are something terrible). We wound up in the
Perspective Nevsky--the great shopping street, but didn't get out of the
carriage, merely drove through. The shops look handsome and the vitrines
well arranged, just like Paris. There was very little animation in the
streets and very few carriages. They tell us many people have already
gone away for the summer.
We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were finishing Admiral
Jaures came in to suggest that we should dine at Peterhof to-morrow
afternoon. He says it is a very nice excursion--a short hour on the
boat, and we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started again in
the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La Pointe"--the great
rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg. It is a long hour's drive,
crossing quantities of small islands all connected by bridges, and one
finally arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of the
Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, the people get down
and walk about, or sit on the benches at the water's edge--a regular
salon--in summer one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there.
The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the Gulf is grey,
the banks low, no trees--but the air was delicious.
We met almost all our Moscow colleagues--also Princess Lise Troubetzkoi,
who was delighted to see W. and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted
us to go back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and I was
tired, having been going all day--evidently that is what people do, as
several of our colleagues too asked us, and expressed great surprise at
our wanting to go home so early.
We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then loitered a little in
the salon, as the windows were open, people walking and driving about
the streets, and nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least
the midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some tea, and a
little before one, making many excuses, I retired, rather feeling as if
I were going to bed with the chickens.
Friday, June 15th.
We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and I will write a little
now after breakfast, before we start for Peterhof. We took ourselves off
early in a droshky (Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman
where to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It was a lovely
morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed our drive. W. was shown at once to
the Cabinet des Medailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him,
and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man attached to the
Museum who knew his work well, and was remarkably intelligent, speaking
French quite well. The pictures are beautiful--there are quantities of
every possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks and the
Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madonnas were lovely too. I like
the Italian Madonna face so much--it is so pure and young and
passionless. Our guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what
we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed about two hours, seeing
all sorts of things "en passant" besides the pictures. The whole Museum
is crowded--I don't think they could get much more in.
Saturday, June 16th.
Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday afternoon. We took
the four o'clock boat, and had a nice sail down of an hour and a
quarter. The Jaures came with us, also Pittie, Fayet, and Calmon.
Corcelle went back to Paris from Moscow--also Sesmaisons, so our
Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several of our Moscow friends on
the boat--General Richter, Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court
is at Peterhof and they are all established there. They told us the
Emperor and Empress were not very tired after the excitement and
emotions of the Coronation--very happy that all had gone so smoothly,
and now quite pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children.
The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a "petit Versailles,"
and "petit" it certainly is in comparison; but the park is pretty, well
laid out, with terraces and gardens, and the water-works really very
good indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and a good many
people walking about. What was lovely and quite unlike Versailles were
the glimpses of the sea one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove
all about. We went into the big Palace, where the present Emperor never
lives. He prefers a small place, half farm, half cottage, close to the
sea, and lives there quite contentedly and quietly like an ordinary
country gentleman. However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa--the
gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers everywhere.
We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told of on the sea, and
took the 10 o'clock boat home. The return was enchanting--a beautiful
starlight night, and fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme.
Jaures, who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I think she is
glad to go back to France, and "au fond" there are very few French women
who care to _live_ abroad altogether. After three or four years they get
homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was never homesick for
America--but I told her I had been so long away, and my life had been
such a full one that I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl
that used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey cart and a
big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so long ago the memory is getting
duller. Sometimes I shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house
with the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and the
white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where we upset so often in
the sleighs--all the children tumbling out into the snow drift, and
nobody minding.
We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we read quite easily at
the window. It is a wonderful light--no one ever seems to think of going
to bed.
This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to finish the pictures.
Decidedly the Rembrandts are the gems of the collection. There was one
old man in a sort of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face,
whose eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the room. We
left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk attached to the Cabinet des
Medailles. It seems they never leave anybody alone in the room with the
medals. W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had never seen,
and he means to have a good day's work, will not come back to breakfast
with us.
Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and meets us at the
Winter Palace this afternoon to show us the rooms. Our Mission is
dwindling; Fayet went off this morning, Pittie and Calmon go Monday.
Richard remains to make the journey with us to Stockholm by sea. We have
just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Jaures'. The Embassy is
small, but very well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome dinner.
All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and his two auditeurs, and
the French Consul and his wife. Admiral Jaures was very hospitable and
en train--all sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank must
have so many lonely hours, and are such swells on their ships, where no
one can associate much with them, that one would think it would make
them rather silent and reserved from long habit--but it is quite the
contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated, and good
talkers.
We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We met him at the Winter
Palace this afternoon, and went all about together. I can't say I found
it very interesting. The rooms are handsome--high, generally white, with
quantities of pictures--the portraits, some very old ones,
interesting--the large modern pictures of battles by sea and land less
so. I like very much the pictures of Peter the Great. He has a keen,
striking face, must have had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of
the portraits almost inspired, _hard_, not cruel. They were very anxious
to show us the rooms where the late Emperor died, but there had been
some mistake, and the man who has charge of the room could not be found,
nor the key either. I was very glad (not that I should have gone in),
for they said it was a horrid sight--the camp-bed and even his clothes
left as they were, thick with blood. He was carried there directly after
the attentat, and died on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the
splendid view again of the Neva from the windows of the ballroom. It
looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing in the afternoon light,
and all the white sails standing out well in the sun. The two young men
who were with us were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in
detail _except_ those concerning the Grande Armee and the disastrous
retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de tres interessant,
Madame--pas la peine de s'arreter----."
Sunday, June 17th.
This morning we went to the French Protestant Church--a large room with
white walls, and benches. There were very few people, but they tell us
it is fairly full in winter. There is a large French colony--shopkeepers,
theatre people, etc., and a great many Protestants. The Pasteur preached
a very fair, sensible sermon.
After breakfast we had some visitors--Sir Edward Thornton, who wants us
to dine one night; and a nice man, a Russian (whose name I never knew),
but who told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested, and who
has offered to go shopping with us one day, and show us the best
fur-shops. We went for a drive in the afternoon to the Park Catherine,
where a sort of fete populaire was going on. There were a great many
people, and a great many policemen (as there always are here), one would
think they lived in perpetual fear of an emeute, and yet the people all
looked so subdued and repressed--I haven't seen one fierce face. The
quantity of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of colour,
but the women are not attractive, nor pretty. All are wrapped up in
shawls, with a handkerchief over their heads.
We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States Legation), all
their people, including of course George Wurts, whom I was very pleased
to see again--Admiral Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul,
and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to America--he is named
Minister there. They have been in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about
America. I should think they would like it better than Japan, but I
believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was very amusing, and from
her account life in Japan must still be very primitive.
We came away early--about 10.30--and have been poring over guide-books
ever since, making out our journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at
night, and with no lamps).
Tuesday, June 19th.
We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt on the Lancaster,
Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had invited all the Corps Diplomatique,
and the few Russians who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve,
Benckendorff, etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Russian
steamer, and once under way the breeze was delicious. I wore my white
batiste with Valenciennes, and a big black hat (which wasn't very
practical on the steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about
considerably, but I thought it looked so nice with the white dress). The
American ship looked beautiful as we drew near--an old-fashioned
frigate, all dressed with flags. The getting on board was not very easy,
as she lay far out, and we had to get into small boats from our steamer
and go out to her. It didn't look very pleasant when they put the steps
down and told us to jump. There were fair waves, and when they told us
to jump the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course swung under
the steps on the top of the wave at the right moment. Lady Thornton got
down all right, so did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying
time. She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she was standing
on the steps between two strong sailors who told her to jump. She did
her best, poor thing, and several times we in the boat below saw a stout
white leg suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back, and she
never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man-like, was furious, which
of course made her much more nervous; however, after several attempts
she gave it up, and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look
quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the air waiting for
the boat to arrive.
We danced about well in the little boat, for every time it came up, and
she didn't come down, we had to go back and repeat the performance. The
American Legation got off first and were received by a salute of 15
guns, and then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers received
us at the top of the ladder, and the band played our national airs, and
they gave the Ambassador's salute, 17 guns, and a great noise it made
just over our heads as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and
her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God Save The
Queen"--then came the "Marseillaise," and for a moment I forgot I was a
Frenchwoman and looked to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't
come in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I recovered
myself in time to bow and smile my thanks.
I was delighted to find myself on an American ship, I so rarely see
American officers of any kind. The ship was in splendid condition, so
beautifully clean. We had a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin.
He took me down to see the table before all the guests came, and very
pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some handsome silver. No one
enjoyed the day more than Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about
coming, as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us about it.
We told him the dancing would be mild, and he might never have a chance
to see a big American ship again, and strongly advised him to come.
While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one of the young
officers came up to her (she knew several of them, as they were some
years in Washington) saying he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an
American, did she know which one, and could she introduce him.
"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife of the French
Ambassador, who is sitting next to me now," and immediately presented
the young man, who said he had been looking at all the ladies to see
which was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed because he
heard me speaking French. We became great friends, and he took me all
over the ship. We danced a little on deck--a quadrille d'honneur--I with
my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with Jaures, Madame Jaures
with Admiral Baldwin. Then we left the dancing to the young ones and sat
quietly on deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the
Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band--they were
almost all Italians. I went over at once and talked to them, so did the
Nuncio, which of course delighted them.
We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer. The sea was much
calmer, and the getting off one boat and on another was not such a
difficult operation even for poor Mdme. A----. The sail back was about
two hours--quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twilight, and we
were all sorry when it came to an end.
This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy, so I have stayed
quietly at home. Richard and I breakfasted tete-a-tete, as W. was off at
an early hour to his medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if
the Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for a long
spell of work as the Italians were. _They_ struck after _two_ days of
such work, and then took it in turns. One day at Milan I went to get him
at the end of the day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the
country, so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying,
"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur etait vraiment aux Medailles
toute la journee." I suppose he felt that he wouldn't have stayed
working all those hours, and also quite understood that I suspected W.
of doing something else.
We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has told us all about
the boat we want to take to go to Stockholm. He says they are Swedish
boats, very clean, and very good food; also very few people at this time
of the year.
Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some visits. Calmon will go
and see you and give you all our news. He won't tell you what I will,
that he had a great success in Moscow--his artillery uniform, the
astrakhan tunique, was very becoming--all the ladies found him "tres
beau garcon." I must add too that Richard also had a great
success--evidently artillery uniform is becoming. It was rather amusing
to see the face of one of the young ladies when I made some reference to
Madame Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married--I never should have
dreamed of it"--and after a moment, "What is his wife like?" doubtfully.
"Is she pretty?" "Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you
that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise.
How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am settled again at
Bourneville--walking in the park with the children, riding all over the
country with W., and leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall
remember all I want to tell you.
_To H. L. K._
#Hotel Demoult, Petersburg#,
Wednesday, June 20th, 1883.
Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the Thorntons, who gave
us tea. Their Embassy is charming--a big house on the Quai Anglais. The
drawing-rooms are large and high. All the windows look out on the Neva,
and they say it is quite beautiful at night. Then we went back to the
hotel, got W., who had had a fine morning with his medals--says the
collection is magnificent, much larger than he had any idea of, and
started off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow evening
between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean, and the Captain was
quite overwhelmed with the distinguished passengers he was to have the
honour of transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown into one)
big enough for a family. I interviewed the stewardess, a nice
fresh-looking Norwegian woman. Conversation was rather difficult, as I
spoke German and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the
other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They tell us the voyage
is enchanting, all in and out of small fiords, islands, and narrow
rivers. We stop five or six hours each day to see the country, and never
have any sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally rough.
We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our Consul, a very nice
man, very intelligent. He too had interviewed the Captain, and told him
to take every care of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two
Finnish towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing. About 10
o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had a pleasant hour with some
of the colleagues. It is always cool there, and the drive out is
interesting, so unlike anything else.
Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and Moulin of the French
Embassy to see the Falls of Smatra, which are said to be very fine. We
pick him up at Helsingfors.
I walked about a little with Adelaide--I never see anything the least
like a femme du monde in the streets. I suppose the "societe" are away
for the summer, and the streets look rather as September streets do in
Paris.
W. and I dined at the Thorntons'--handsome and pleasant. Jaures was
there, not his wife, she has already started for Paris, and the Ternaux
Compans, a nice young menage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She
was very well dressed, in white. There was also the Danish Minister (I
forget his name). He is a friend of the Empress and tres bien vu a la
cour. After dinner someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thornton
danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the mazurka. Lady
Thornton says, like everyone else, that the society of Petersburg is
very ferme. They know everybody, but I fancy very few of the
diplomatists make real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as
the Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and sociable. She
also finds the climate very trying. She showed me all the rooms, which
are charming. In all the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is
most trying, and of course people who live there must have regular hours
for sleep--for us birds of passage it is of no consequence, and going to
bed seems the last thing one would think of doing in Petersburg.
We came home about 11, and now W. is busy over his Paris letters, also
putting his notes in order, as he has finished with the medals. He has
had three or four days of real hard work, but says it rested him after
all the Court festivities.
Jeudi, 21 Juin.
We have been shopping all the morning,--W. and I and M. Lomatch (I have
found his name). We bought, among other things, a sled for Francis--I
haven't seen one since I left America--and a good deal of Russian lace,
which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We came back to a late
breakfast, and I am writing now at the last moment while they are
carrying down the trunks. We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our
boxes and Adelaide, and install ourselves, and then go for tea to
Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just opposite the wharf
where the steamer starts from. I am quite sorry to go. We are very
comfortable here, and the streets are so amusing. I should like once to
hear a little laughing and singing, as the various groups of
work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass--but they are a curiously sad,
subdued race.
Friday, June 22d. "En mer."
We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), where we go on
shore for some hours, and I will write a little. I have a nice straw
arm-chair on deck (the sail shades me), a table with books, papers, etc.
We embarked at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about 4--saw the
Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks English quite well, and who
is much pleased to have us on his boat. He went down to the cabin with
us, which is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and
a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens into the ladies'
cabin, where he had also arranged the end near our cabin for us--two
arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adelaide has a nice state-room just
opposite--also Richard. There were not many people on board--and he said
he hadn't many passengers, chiefly men.
We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the Coutoulys', who
have a nice apartment directly on the river. It is so broad and swift
one feels almost as if one was on the sea-shore. There is much passing
all the time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where the
boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we went back to the boat.