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[Illustration: Mary King Waddington]
[Illustration: Signature: Mary King Waddington]
LETTERS OF A
DIPLOMAT'S WIFE
1883-1900
BY
MARY KING WADDINGTON
ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS
AND PHOTOGRAPHS
SMITH, ELDER & CO.
LONDON 1903
Copyright, 1903, by Charles Scribner's Sons
for the United States of America
Printed by the Trow Directory, Printing and Bookbinding Company
New York, U. S. A.
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS
Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter of the late Charles King,
President of Columbia College in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864,
and a granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent to England
by the United States after the adoption of the Constitution.
Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871, after the death of her
father, she went, with her mother and sisters, to live in France, and in
1874 became the wife of M. William Henry Waddington.
M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in 1826. His grandfather was
an Englishman who had established cotton manufactories in France, and
had become a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, however, was
educated first in a Paris _lycee_, then at Rugby, and later at Trinity
College, Cambridge. As an under-graduate he rowed in the Cambridge boat
in the University race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University, M.
Waddington returned to France and entered public life. In 1871 he was
elected a representative from the Department of the Aisne to the
National Assembly, and two years afterward was appointed Minister of
Public Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January, 1876, he was
elected a senator for the Department of the Aisne, and two months later
again became Minister of Public Instruction. In December, 1877, he
accepted the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs.
M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of France to the Congress of
Berlin in 1878. On February 4, 1879, he became President of the Council
(Premier), retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879-1880
he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In May, 1883, he was sent as
Ambassador-Extraordinary to represent France at the coronation of the
Czar Alexander III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia was
appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James to succeed M. Tissot. He
held this post until 1893, and died in Paris in the following year.
Mme. Waddington accompanied her husband on his missions to both England
and Russia. The letters collected in this volume were written during the
period of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her sisters
the personages and incidents of her official life. About a fourth part
of their number have lately been published in _Scribner's Magazine_;
with this exception, the letters are now given to the public for the
first time.
#Tompkins McIlvaine.#
#New York#, April 1, 1903.
ILLUSTRATIONS
#Portrait of Madame Waddington# _Frontispiece_
FACING
PAGE
#Colonel Benckendorff# 34
_From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._
#The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de
l'Assomption# 66
#Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes# 68
#Grand Duc Wladimir# 104
_From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._
#M. William Waddington# 142
_From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son._
#The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London# 168
#The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London,
Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries# 172
#J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy# 178
_Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States.
From a photograph by Walery, Paris._
#The Duchess of Cambridge# 180
_From a photograph by Walery, London._
#Windsor Castle# 192
#M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son# 198
_From a photograph by Cesar, Paris._
#The Salon of the French Embassy in London# 210
#Lady Salisbury# 216
#Knowsley Hall# 228
_The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot, Lancashire._
#The Late Earl of Derby# 232
_From a photograph by Franz Baum, London._
#The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassadress# 240
_From a photograph by Walery, London._
#Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the
State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887# 250
_From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England._
#The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the
Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration,
London, June, 1887# 254
_From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch, Berlin._
#Comtesse de Florian# 262
_From a photograph by Walery, London._
#Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the
Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889# 304
_From a photograph by Russell & Sons, London._
#Lord Salisbury# 306
_From a photograph by Lambert Weston & Son, Dover._
#A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy# 320
_From a photograph by Barker & Pragnell, London._
#The Empress Frederick, Wearing the Order of the
Black Eagle# 388
_The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli._
#Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of
Wight# 392
_From a photograph by Broderick._
LETTERS
OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE
PART I
THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR
_To G. K. S_.
#Paris#,
31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,
March 15, 1883.
Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most interesting. I began by
refusing on account of my mourning, but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note
saying that there would be no one but the Leon Says and Mr. and Mrs.
Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to see Mr. Gladstone.
We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small dining-room, and
the talk at table was most interesting. I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked
older than her husband. He of course did most of the talking. He has a
fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself very erect, and
apparently knows everything about everything. When the men were smoking
after breakfast I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told me
about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish. She said her husband heard
it at a big London party, and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr.
Gladstone was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to tell the
unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him. Il y avait de quoi, for
even here in Paris, where _outside_ questions don't trouble them very
much, there was great excitement when the news came.
I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me on W.'s[1]
appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told him there was no truth in
the report (they had offered it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I
think he is quite right. He has no particular _attaches_ at Vienna. He
knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely perfectly, and hasn't
really the social talents that one needs in Vienna. They ought to send a
dashing general, or a courtier, not a serious savant.
[1] W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's
husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A. J. K."
and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme.
Waddington's sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and
the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs.
Cornelius L. King.
We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped in my fur coat,
and driving in a shut carriage. Your tea in the garden sends a shiver
through me. It sounds quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des
Montagnes" to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see Athens; W. says
when I do that I will never care again for Rome; that colouring and
ruins are far superior in Greece. I almost think in that case I would
rather remain under my present impression of dear, beautiful Rome, not
quite like our American friend, who thought "the Colosseum was pretty,
but she liked the Court-House at St. Louis better."
#Paris#,
Sunday, March 18, 1883.
I will write a little this morning, Dear--I am just back from l'Etoile.
I have had rather an agitated week, and here is my news, good--bad--I
don't know myself. W. is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to
represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alexander. It was a
"bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell you from the beginning. We went
to ride as usual Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30).
When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't been gone ten minutes,
when le Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres (Challemel-Lacour) came to see
W., was much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme. H. he would
come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but one of the young attaches did,
with a note from Challemel begging W. to come and see him directly after
breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we both made up our
minds it was to insist on the Vienna Embassy. I protested, and I think
W. would not have taken it.
I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress at Redfern's,
and just as we were coming away W. appeared. He had seen the carriage at
the door and knew he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I
said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?"
"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coronation."
I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must frankly say I
was wretched. Of course he asked 24 hours to think it over, though the
Minister urged him very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me
to go, says a woman gives more eclat to an Embassy. Of course it will be
a magnificent sight, but I am a perfect poltroon--I am so afraid they
will take advantage of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that
should happen it would be better to be blown up together, but I really
am nervous (I am not usually such a coward, but Russian Nihilists and
dynamiters are terrible elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't
asked him to go.
Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s personal position,
and I have given no opinion, but I don't feel happy at all. I have
always said that I would never try to influence my husband's actions
(public) in any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as most
women do who marry public men, but I should like to put a decided veto
now. I will keep you au courant of the decision.
March 20th.
Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to Moscow, and takes
me with him. He consulted his brother and his friends and all told him
he could not refuse. As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself
would have asked Marechal MacMahon to go, if he had been at the Foreign
Office), he was "tout indique."[2] It seems all the other Powers are
going to send Princes--Spain, the Duc de Montpensier; England, the Duke
of Edinburgh; Italy, the Duc d'Aoste, etc.
[2] After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office.
We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of May. W. is busy now
composing his Mission. Of course everybody wants to go. It seems such an
undertaking. We had a nice ride this morning--various people riding
with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I overheard one timid old
gentleman saying to W., "Vous emmenez votre femme? Vous avez tort; on ne
sait pas ce qui peut arriver"--not very reassuring.
April 1st.
My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous, as I have only one
idea--the Mission. All the arrangements are being made, such an affair.
W. has sent off a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to hold
all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room We are 9 people--W.
and I; Comte de Pontecoulant, Ministre Plenipotentiaire (W.'s ancien
Chef de Cabinet); General Pittie (General de Division, chef de la maison
militaire du President de la Republique); Colonel Comte de Sesmaisons,
commandant les 6eme hussards; Francois de Corcelle, Secretaire
d'Ambassade; Commandant Fayet (de la maison du President--Jules Grevy);
Richard Waddington, Depute, Capitaine dans l'armee territoriale; Robert
Calmon, lieutenant dans l'armee territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument
necessaire en Russie.
We have three servants--W.'s valet Joseph and my two maids Adelaide and
Mdme. Hubert. All the gentlemen have their servants. Then there is
Pierson, the huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean, the
big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people, and writes down
names, etc.), two cooks with one or two garcons de cuisine; 3 coachmen,
Hubert of course, and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnificent
person, came this morning to see W. He has already represente on several
occasions, and driven gala carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined
to go with us (with very high wages, and making his conditions--will
drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the gala carriage, etc.).
That will necessitate very delicate negotiations with Hubert, who also
wishes to drive only the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never
driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy vehicles to
manage, I think he must waive his claim.
April 10th.
There has also been a long consultation about horses, how many for the
gala carriage. When Marechal MacMahon went as Ambassador Extraordinary
to the Emperor of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and running
footmen (it seems there must be six or two--four are not allowed. Four
would be too sporting--not serious enough). We have four enormous
footmen, and one ordinary sized one for every-day use--2 gala carriages,
and a coupe d'Orsay, which must be painted dark blue with white stripes,
our colours.
April 12th.
We are getting on slowly. The horse question is settled--no one has more
than two, so we take 9 enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to
get them. They could not be found anywhere in France. I forget the exact
height (as big as they make them), but he promises to get them from
England, or the Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed of
enormous, heavy coach horses.
We had a most satisfactory interview this morning with M. Lhermite, the
head man of the great restaurant, Potel & Chabot. W. had been rather
bothered about a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of the
whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant--he does W.'s service,
and can look after an ordinary household, but would not be at all up to
the mark in this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for someone,
so he came and volunteered to go with us, and superintend everything. He
was so well dressed and had such good manners that W. rather demurred,
and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite pressed it very
much, and wound up by saying, "J'ai ete cuisinier moi-meme, Monsieur,
personne ne vous servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has
full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc.
The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the plan of the house which
he has found. It seems large and handsome, a good entrance, marble
staircase, large ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It
calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently the house of
a rich Jew.
Sunday, May 6th.
I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even get up for church.
The standing at the dressmaker's is something awful. Yesterday I tried
12 dresses (finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at
Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome--I think the Court dresses
will be handsome. The principal one for the day of the Coronation is
sapphire blue satin embroidered all round the train (3 metres long),
with a beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold and
silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant (not at all like
me), but they said I must have "des toilettes a effet qui seraient
remarquees." The under-dress is salmon pink satin, the front all covered
with flowers to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers (short
ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the regulation white waving
plumes of the English Court are not de rigueur in Russia. The other
train is a pale pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet
leaves, all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look
handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all.
I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orloff, Russian Ambassador
here, who is a great friend of ours, and who was very anxious from the
first that I should go. I confided to him that I was very nervous and
uncomfortable. I don't mind so much in the day time when I am seeing
quantities of people, and interested in the preparations; but I don't
sleep, and have visions of the Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of
horrors. As Richard[3] goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a
guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly bring up a
Frenchman, and after all we may none of us ever come back.
[3] Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator of
the Seine Inferieure.
Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W. gave her the key of
his secretaire, and said his will and last directions were there, in
case anything happened to him--cheerful preparations for a festive
journey.
Tuesday, May 8, 1883.
Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house is a
curiosity--crowded with every conceivable thing. My two maids (I take
Mdme. Hubert too, as Adelaide is not very strong, and if she gave out I
should be in a bad way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each
have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and coat for
travelling, and a black silk for their gala occasions. Pontecoulant is
always teasing Mdme. Hubert, and asking if "ses toilettes sont pretes."
This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were paraded under the
windows. They started to-night, as they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite
is a treasure. He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of
all kinds. W. and Pontecoulant gave him all their instructions, and then
he came for mine. I told him I must have my maids in the room next to
me, and as we had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a
fair-sized bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange as a sort of
boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are on the street), and the maids
a large room opening out of the dressing-room. He is eminently
practical; takes charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of
dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are ready in
time, clean and well turned out.
Pontecoulant, who is also very practical, overlooks that part of the
business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy and Lhermite will report to
him every morning. Leroy has also just been in, much pleased with his
gala carriage and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular about
his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will all ever settle down
to our quiet life again.
Thursday, 10th.
I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start, dressed in my
travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a long coat lined with red
satin, and a black hat with blue feathers (I haven't got on the coat and
hat yet). There has been such a procession of people all day, and great
vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather bothered about my
jewels--how to carry them. I have taken everything the family own.
Anne's necklace, with some extra stones I had, has been converted into a
tiara. All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at the
Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high, studded with jewels,
any ordinary arrangement of stars and feathers would look insignificant.
Freddy, who is an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate
all my efforts on the tiara--he also suggested ropes of pearls
(artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to that. Chemin, the
jeweller, was very anxious I should "louer" a sort of breastplate of
diamonds--but on the whole I preferred taking less--merely mine and the
sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am sure I don't
know. I don't care to carry them myself in a bag, as I never by any
chance carry my bag, I should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't
like to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels in two
trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with silk stockings, etc.
I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a nice young coachman
who comes to replace Hubert in our absence, and also provided a surprise
for baby in the shape of a large train, which will distract him the
first days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes with us. He
is one of those who always accompany the foreign Princes who pass
through Paris, and is said to know well all the great nihilist leaders
(all of whom he says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordinary
policemen with him. They go of course on the train with us, and never
lose sight of us. I shall feel rather like a distinguished criminal
being tracked across Europe.
Pontecoulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur, who presented
himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted upon being included in the
suite (consequently travelling free of expense on the special trains,
etc., with us). He really isn't my coiffeur--I never have anyone except
Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad to have him. He
said to Pontecoulant, "Monsieur le Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je
pose le diademe de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;"
however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambassadrice takes her own
coiffeur with her, as well as her two maids.
Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try and reason with
myself, and not be the arrant coward I really feel like.
_To G. K. S._
#Kaiserhof, Berlin#,
Saturday, May 12th, 1883.
Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far most comfortably. We
arrived last night about 9, and this morning I am unpacking a little,
and settling myself, as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure
from the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We got rather
early to the station, as W. was preoccupied with the baggage, and
besides there were last words to say to all the people who came to see
us off. Henrietta, rather tearful, came with us to the station--Francis
was so engrossed with his new railway train that was careering round on
beautiful green rails in his father's study, that he was quite
indifferent. The whole quai was filled with boxes and trunks labelled
"Waddington, Moscow," and when you think that all the soldiers took
their saddles and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone
represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coupe d'Orsay, and all the
heavy harness and servants' liveries, you can imagine what an excitement
there was until everything was put on board.
We started, however, fairly punctually--W. and I had a lit-salon, with
cabinet de toilette; the two maids and W.'s man next door, and
Sesmaisons and Francois de Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the
rest of the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coupe next to
ours. There were all sorts of last directions to be given to
Pontecoulant, and to poor Henrietta, who remains in charge of Francis.
I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good traveller, and
about 7 Adelaide came in to arrange me a little, as we were to breakfast
at Cologne (where we were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and
also the consul at Duesseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s. We had a
very good little breakfast in the private room, and when we started
again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at the last moment to conduct us to our
coupe, there was much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur and
Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excitement at the station, and
all the people who were coming and going in the numerous trains that
passed through had their heads out of the windows to see what was going
on. They had filled our coupe with papers of all kinds (German),
illustrated and political, also a large bouquet for me.
We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time, but at a round
table at one end of the large room. Who do you think came to see me? Mr.
Joy; he had seen in the papers that we were to pass through, so he took
himself down to the station to see if he could see us. I introduced him
to W.--we had only time for a little talk, as he came rather late. He
also brought papers and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with
literature for the present.
When we arrived here at the station we found M. de Courcel, our
Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with all his staff. He drove us at
once in his carriage to the hotel, and said he would come in again an
hour later and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful
rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room, two good-sized
bedrooms and a very good ante-room (where by the way Pierson, with his
chain and sword and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out
of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as if I was back
at the Quai d'Orsay, and he was announcing my visitors).
While we were talking to Courcel last night one of the hotel servants
came in to say--would I go for one moment to speak to the maids, he
couldn't make out what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these
ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as they could, and
to find a polygot waiter, or someone to translate for them; that I
certainly was not going to look out for them, and they had better try
and learn a little German.
Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bismarck all want to see
W.--he also warns him that Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't
think W. minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman himself, and
I imagine he will say all he wants to to the great man.
10-30.
W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the Pariser Platz to see
the outside of the French Embassy; it looks big and imposing. We came
home through "Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and has much
more the air of a capital than when I first saw it a great many years
ago. Of course I was much struck with the quantities of soldiers one
sees in the streets. The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like
ramrods, so stiff; and when they are walking two or three together take
up the whole pavement.
Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us--Sesmaisons is delighted to
be back in Berlin. He was military attache there at the time of the
Berlin Congress, when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends.
M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with a long list for
W., his audience cards, invitations, etc. Then came George de Bunsen
with his wife and daughters. I had never seen the ladies of the family,
and was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very friendly, and we
made various engagements with them. M. de Bunsen I had seen before in
France--he is quite charming, very good-looking, and not at all
Prussian, so cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive.
W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to the Embassy
first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel. The rooms are large and
handsome, with good pictures and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in
the Thiergarten, and the Jardin Zooelogique (where we saw an enormous
yellow lion--a terrible beast, handsome, too). W. then went to see
Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who was very amiable, but said nothing in
particular--none of Bismarck's people ever do.
We dined early at the Embassy with all the personnel. The dinner was
good and handsome, plenty of servants, lights, flowers--everything in
very good style. While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I
talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences, and how difficult
her beginnings were, but I suppose they always must be until one has had
time to look around a little. We have just come home, and after talking
a little with the gentlemen I have left them to their cigars and papers,
and am glad to be in my own quarters.
The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They have found a gerant who
speaks French, and who has taken them a little about Berlin, which they
find "tres gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one o'clock
to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Empress nor Princesses, are
here, so I have nothing to do.
Sunday, May 13th.
I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read. The two gentlemen
breakfasted with us as usual, and a little before one W. went off for
his audience with the Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to
him. (He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold embroidery,
and he is very hot and uncomfortable.) The audience lasted about
three-quarters of an hour. W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance
and conversation, said he was au courant of everything--he said among
other things--"Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Waddington a Moscow? eh bien! moi,
je n'envoie pas mon heritier," adding though immediately he didn't think
there was any danger from the Nihilists this time.
He had barely time to get home and out of his uniform when Lord and Lady
Ampthill arrived. They were quite charming, both of them. He and I
plunged into the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as Odo
Russell. They are great favourites here, both at court and with their
colleagues. He spoke a great deal about St. Vallier, said he was the
best colleague he had ever had.
At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uniform this time), and
I drove out to the George Bunsens' to have tea. They have a pretty
house. Theodore was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked
us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Embassy. When I got back
I found W. smoking in a big arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with
Bismarck, who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs" while
he was there. He said he was very frank, almost brutal, in his
appreciations of other countries, and particularly of different public
men whose views didn't coincide directly with his, but on the whole not
too offensive. He kept him until his dinner was announced (at 5
o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his way back from Moscow,
and give him his impressions; so apparently it is only from his own
agents that he doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing to
him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some manifestation or
political crisis, and naturally saying what he thought about the matter;
and the very curt answer he received from the Minister, saying he had
asked for facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would think
that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on the spot would have a
certain importance.
Tuesday, 15th.
It is very warm--I have been out with Adelaide trying to get a light
blouse, my cloth body is unbearable. Everything was shut yesterday, as
it was Whit Monday. W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went
to the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young men. It was
rather amusing, a lovely day, about three quarters of an hour by train
from Berlin. The public was not nearly so elegant as on a Paris
race-course, but there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff,
arrogant officers (always en tenue).
When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W. at the door, just back
from his dinner, so Francois de Corcelle and I dined tete-a-tete, and W.
talked to us--said the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince
Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there. The Grand Duchess
told W. that in a telegram received that morning from her mother (the
Empress Augusta) she had said how much she regretted not seeing him,
that she had always watched his career with great interest, and was very
glad to see him coming to the front again.
The Emperor talked about everything--France; England; the religious
question in France; he believed French women of all classes were
clerical, and under the influence of the priests, so naturally they
could have no sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it
is a mistake to have the women against you." We had an audience with the
Prince Imperial after dinner, which was pleasant, but absolutely
commonplace. He and all the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue.
We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was pleasant. W. was very
glad to have a quiet talk with M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive,
such a charming manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the
French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleichroeder, an Israelite
banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and therefore interesting. We came
early, as all the rest of our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and
we wanted to see them. They all came up after supper, looking most
cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather warm in the middle of
the day, and were quite game to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as
we go on to Warsaw to-morrow night.
Wednesday, May 16th.
We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a few lines to
finish this very long epistle, and will send it from here. It is still
very warm. I went out to see some of the pictures (how beautiful the
Velasquez are) and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pontecoulant and I
breakfasted together at the hotel; W. and Richard at the George
Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and hospitable as possible.
After breakfast we had various visits, and then Pontecoulant, Corcelle
and I went for a last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet
either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince Imperial, but
we didn't. There were plenty of people riding and driving, as it was the
fashionable day "Corso." We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an
open carriage with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court
liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver. Everybody bowed and
curtseyed, the officers saluting de front.
We went round by the Zoo to show Pontecoulant the big lion. Pontecoulant
was most amusing over their journey, and said he was nearly driven out
of his mind the day before they started with all the people who came to
see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left him, that it
won't be his fault if my diadem is not perfectly pose, and that he plied
him with beer all along the route. He is here supping and living at the
hotel with all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that he was
at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de circonstance" for the night
journey. What do you suppose it would have been?
Pontecoulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day he left, and had
left orders at the Foreign Office that the Havas telegrams which will
keep her au courant of our movements shall always be sent to her. All
the personnel except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night. I am not
sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at 11 to-night, and get to
Alexandrownow about 7.30 to-morrow. That is the Russian frontier, and
there we shall have some sort of official reception.
W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy, the military attache,
and that always does him good. I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse,
so I trust it won't be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the
frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here we have lived so
with the Embassy that I hardly feel as if I was abroad, only the cadre
is different, and the Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't
think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I should think M. de
Courcel's succession would be a very difficult one. He knows German
well, and has always lived with diplomatists, but if they send a
political man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bismarck said
to W. when they were talking about any possible war in Europe--"Je
desire la paix, je suis un homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant
for the French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has largely
contributed to his satisfaction is the possession of Alsace-Lorraine.
We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the balcony, and we saw all the
gentleman-servants, omnibuses and baggage start. We shall only go just
in time to have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel, who
is coming to say good-by. The gerant of the hotel has just been up to
hope we were satisfied--would we telegraph when we came back, as of
course he would give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large
bouquet.
Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the hotel, on the same floor
with us. Every time I go down the corridor I see two or three tall, dark
men, dressed in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make me
low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung," as they call it here.
My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should arrive at 4
to-morrow afternoon.
_To H. L. K._
#Hotel de l'Europe, Varsovie#,
Thursday, May 17th, 1883.
Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30 this afternoon. We
started at 11--it was very hot even at that hour of the night, and the
coupe-lit stuffy and uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were
at the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united made quite a
gathering. I had a little talk with Princess Guillaume Radziwill, who is
starting for the Coronation. It seems she has splendid jewels, and was
rather bothered to know how to carry them. She has got them all on, in
little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks she won't be very
comfortable all night, with pins, brooches, etc., running into her. She
was horrified when I told her where mine were.
The night was long, we were not very comfortable, and the gentlemen
were decidedly squeezed in one little carriage. We stopped somewhere,
I don't remember the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee.
I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to Alexandrownow, the
Russian frontier, about 8. The station had a decidedly festive
appearance--flags, greens, soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently
preparing a salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all thought it
was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to the strains of the
"Marseillaise," when we heard the "Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a
Hessian Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also going to
the Coronation, so we rentreed our heads, and remained quietly in our
carriages until they had disposed of him.
Then came our turn. We were received with all ceremony--a tall Russian
officer took charge of me, saying, in very good French, he was sure I
would like to brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me
upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was waiting with hot
water, towels, brushes, tea, and little rolls. I took off my dress to
have it brushed, and while I was standing in my petticoats several
gentlemen came to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various
perfectly unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid laughed and made
signs, and carried off my dress, which I thought was dangerous--however
I couldn't say anything, so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide
arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a cup of tea when
the maid reappeared with my dress, accompanied by another officer, who
told me in French, from the other side of the door, that his Royal
Highness of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of breakfasting with
him. I said I would come with pleasure, but begged they wouldn't wait,
as I was not quite ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found
my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room, where were the
Prince and his party, including W. and a Russian general, who had been
sent from Varsovie to meet the Hessian Prince.
They were all at table--the Prince put me next to him, introduced the
Russian general and all his suite, and we had rather a pleasant hour. We
had excellent tea in glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious
little rolls, eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall,
broad-shouldered, good-natured German, speaking French quite well.
We had the same ceremony at starting, first the "Wacht-am-Rhein" for the
Germans, then the "Marseillaise" for us. The journey was not
particularly interesting from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself
most curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at the station
here--the Governor of Varsovie, and Prefet de Police en tenue, and our
Consul, M. Berard.
We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms, which are
comfortable, and started again for a little drive through the town
before dinner. Anything so unlike the cities one has been accustomed to
see can't be imagined, long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many
houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep holes, and paving
stones as big as ordinary rocks--why the carriage ever got along was a
mystery to us all. The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long
caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached to the carriage is a
problem, as they apparently have no harness of any description. I used
to think we didn't use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's
face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill without any
breeching?
There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every direction, all with
their long caftans, greasy, black curls, and ear-rings. I had time to
rest a little before dinner. We all dined together, also Berard the
Consul, all the men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moire with
white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of pearls which I
had on under my corsage. Pontecoulant, who is the next man to W., took
me in, and I had General Pittie on the other side. The dinner was
handsome and well served. Pontecoulant had attended to that while we
were driving about.
After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the Governor's box
to see a famous ballet. I was rather tired, and as we start again
to-morrow, and have two nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed
early. I was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough, from
Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to Moscow to represent his
country, and now I am going to bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will
try and write a little en route. They say I can probably, as the Russian
roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very slowly.
Friday, 2 o'clock.
I will go on a little and send this letter also from here. We had an
expedition this morning to one of the chateaux belonging to some member
of the Sobieski family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque,
where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was on such a
villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is worse), and the road long
and straight through flat country, not very interesting. The chateau was
full of pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible souvenir
of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and quite worth seeing. I
enjoyed the outing, as everything was absolutely unique, carriages,
costumes, carts, people, language, houses, a poor tumble-down little
hovel next to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens.
We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I went to see what was
happening to the maids. I had left them in such a dejected condition on
the landing when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any servant
(couldn't make them understand when they did), couldn't get my boots or
travelling skirt, or hot water, or anything, in fact. The hotel is full
of people, all starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion,
but they really must learn to get along without all modern conveniences.
#Entre Varsovie et Moscou#,
en wagon, Samedi soir, 19.
I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stopping at Smolensk
for tea. It is rather difficult when we are moving (though we go slowly)
as you will see by the writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As
soon as it stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials in
uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated with greens and flags,
where most elaborate repasts are provided. We got off from Varsovie
yesterday most comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our
Consul Berard, were at the station to see us off, and an engineer of the
company, who goes with us to Moscow to interpret and look after us
generally. The train is most luxurious--for W. and me one long saloon
carriage lined with grey satin, and with every variety of easy chair,
sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flowers on one of the tables and
maps of the route on another. Communicating with it and directly behind
are two bedrooms for us--mine is capitonne in blue satin, a very
good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a dressing-room with
every modern convenience. W.'s is grey satin, equally comfortable, with
dressing-room, bath, etc.--behind these again a coupe for the
maids--then a long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs,
tables, etc, and small coupes. The engineer showed us all the
arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also told us that two
employes would be stationed at each end of our carriage always for
whatever we might want.
We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever see Varsovie
again. We stopped somewhere about 5.30, and found a charming little tea
waiting for us in a private room, served of course in glasses with
pieces of lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fraternized
with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the train. M. Schimmelpenninck,
a tall, stylish-looking man, with his son and gendre. The young men had
recognized W., having seen him at the Congres de Berlin; so they
recalled themselves, and we made friends. We agreed to take all our
meals together, and as apparently we shall have about 6 in the day we
shall probably see a good deal of each other.
We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well) at Brest, always the
same ceremonial; and after dinner some of the gentlemen came and paid us
visits. We talked of course about "La Grande Armee" and Napoleon's
campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground that they followed.
The two moujiks at the doors are most attentive and intelligent; as soon
as they hear any noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or
anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a table just now),
they seem to divine it, and appear instantly and ask, I suppose, what we
want. We have no means of communication, but they evidently understand.
I was very comfortable last night in my little blue room, and had been
sleeping quietly, when I seemed to divine that someone had come in. I
didn't stir, and half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather
startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came one of the moujiks
quite quietly. He moved very softly about the room, rather an appalling
figure, with his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face
(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the lamp, drew the
curtain of the dressing-room a little closer to keep out any draught
(didn't come up to the bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was
a curious experience, flying through the darkness of the night, and
wakening to see that strange figure prowling about.
About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this time standing at
the door, and making many perfectly unintelligible remarks. It was so
evident I didn't understand that he smiled, made a despairing gesture
with his hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would come back I
got up and fastened the door. In a few moments I heard a colloquy
outside, and then the voice of the engineer asking when I would like my
maid and my tea--also saying they would stop in about an hour for early
breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's would be brought to our
carriage.
I asked to have the maid at once--so Adelaide appeared with hot water
and a cup of tea, and I dressed as comfortably as if I was in my
dressing-room at the Rue Dumont d'Urville. As soon as I was ready I went
into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean, had been swept
and dusted, window-panes washed (Adelaide saw the men doing it); a very
nice little breakfast tray was brought, tea, every variety of good
little rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the rolls,
didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was close to the window--all
the gentlemen came up and talked to us, and as usual there were
quantities of people about.