PARIS, _1863._

DEAR M.,--The ice in the Bois continues very good; I am skating every day.

I have commenced to teach the little Prince Imperial. He is very sweet,

and talks very intelligently for his age. The other day, when I was

skating with the Empress, a gentleman (I think he was an American),

skating backward, knocked against us with such force that the Empress and

I both fell. I tried with all my might to keep her from falling, but it

was impossible. Her first words, when we were helped on our feet again,

were, "Don't tell the Emperor; I think he did not see us."

That same evening there was a ball at the Tuileries, and when the Empress

came to speak to me she said: "How are you? I can hardly stand up." I

answered, "I am worse off, your Majesty; I can stand up, but I cannot sit

down."

Yesterday, when I came home from my singing lesson with Delle Sedie, I

found the family quite excited. The Empress's chamberlain had just been

here to say that the Empress desired that we would come to the Tuileries

next Monday, and expressed the wish that I should bring some music. I

wrote to Delle Sedie and begged him to advise me what I should sing; he

answered that he would come himself and talk it over with me, and Monsieur

Planté, a young, budding pianist, who was ordered from the Tuileries to

accompany my songs, was sent for, and Delle Sedie came at the same time.

Delle Sedie thought that I should begin with "Tre Giorni son che Nina," of

Pergolesi, and then the air from "Lucia," and if I were asked to sing

again the "Valse de Venzano."

On these occasions gentlemen wear the _pantalon collant_, which is a

most unbecoming and trying costume, being of black cloth fitting very

tight and tapering down to the ankle, where it finishes abruptly with a

button. Any one with a protruding ankle and thin legs cannot escape

criticism.

_Le petit lundi_ of the Empress was not so _petit_ as I expected; there

were at least four or five hundred people present.

I was presented to the Princess Mathilde (the cousin of the Emperor), a

very handsome and distinguished-looking lady, who is married to and

separated from Prince Demidoff. Her palace is directly opposite our hotel.

I was also presented to the Princess Clothilde, and many others. I was

very nervous before singing, but after my first song I did very well.

There was dancing, and everything was very unceremonious and easy. I think

(I will just say it to you, dear mama) that I had a success. Their

Majesties were very kind, and thanked me many times, and the Duke de Morny

said that he was very proud of his protégée, for it was he who had

suggested to the Empress that I should sing for them. It was a delightful

evening, and I enjoyed myself and my little triumph immensely. I made the

acquaintance of the Austrian ambassador and the Princess Metternich. She

seemed very pleasant, and put me directly at my ease. She is far from

being handsome, but dresses better than any woman in Paris, and has more

_chic_. In fact, she sets the fashion as much as the Empress does.

The Emperor, at the instigation of the Duke de Morny, has given orders for

the construction of a bridge over the Marne near Petit Val, a thing we

needed greatly. When you were here, if you remember, one had to walk from

the station to the river, about a little quarter of a mile. Once there you

had to wave and shout for the ferryman, who, before allowing you to get on

the boat, would attend to what cattle or merchandise were waiting there

for transport. I do not think the bridge would have been built had not the

Duke de Morny come out by train to Petit Val to avoid the long drive of

twelve miles from Paris, and had been bored by this primitive means of

transporting his august person. He said he was astonished and mortified

that such a state of things should exist so near Paris. So was every one

else. Otherwise the "bac" would have gone on forever.

The Carnival has never been so whirlwindy as it has been this year; and I

don't know how the purses of our lords and masters are going to hold out;

and while the poor, "whom we have always with us," are getting rich, the

rich, whom we don't always have, alas! are getting poor. For the private

fancy-dress ball at the Tuileries last Monday, to which the guests were

invited by the Empress, Worth alone made costumes to the tune of two

hundred thousand dollars, and yet there were not four hundred ladies

invited.

To begin at the top, the Empress was dressed as the wife of a doge of

Venice of the sixteenth century. She wore all the crown jewels and many

others. She was literally _cuirassée_ in diamonds, and glittered like

a sun-goddess. Her skirt of black velvet over a robe of scarlet satin was

caught up by clusters of diamond brooches. The Prince Imperial was allowed

to be present; he was dressed in a black-velvet costume and knee breeches;

his little, thin legs black-stockinged, and a _manteau Vénitien_ over

his shoulders. He danced twice, once with Mademoiselle de Châteaubourg,

and then with his cousin, Princess Anna Murat, who, being made on

Junoesque lines, and dressed as a Dutch peasant with enormous gold

ornaments over her ears, and a flowing white lace cap, towered above her

youthful partner. He is only seven years old, and rather small for his

age, which made the contrast between him and his colossal partner very

striking. Princess Mathilde looked superb as Holbein's Anne of Clèves. She

wore her famous collection of emeralds, which are world-known.

Princess Clothilde had also copied a picture from the Louvre; but her robe

of silver brocade, standing out in great folds about her waist, was

anything but becoming to her style of figure. Princess Augustine Bonaparte

(Gabrielli) was in a gorgeous costume of something or other; one had not

time to find out exactly what she was intended to represent; she was

covered with jewelry (some people pretended it was false, but it did not

look less brilliant, for that). A fancy ball is an occasion which allows

and excuses any extravagance in jewelry; whereas, at an ordinary ball it

is considered not in good taste to wear too much. I just mention this

casually, in case you should want to make a display when you lunch at Miss

Bryant's some Sunday.

Countess Walewski had powdered her hair and wore a Louis XV. amazon

costume, a most unbecoming yellow satin gown with masses of gold buttons

sewed on in every direction. This was not very successful.

Marquise de Gallifet, as the Angel Gabriel, with enormous real swan's

wings suspended from her shoulders, looked the part to perfection, and

most angelic with her lovely smile, blond hair, and graceful figure.

Princess Metternich was dressed as Night, in dark-blue tulle covered with

diamond stars. Her husband said to me, "Don't you think that Pauline looks

well in her nightgown?"

Countess Castiglione, the famous beauty, was dressed as Salammbô in a

costume remarkable for its lack of stuff, the idea taken from the new

Carthaginian novel of Gustave Flaubert. The whole dress was of black

satin, the waist without any sleeves, showing more than an usual amount of

bare arms and shoulders; the train was open to the waist, disclosing the

countess's noble leg as far up as it went incased in black-silk tights.

The young Count de Choiseul, who had blackened his face to represent an

Egyptian page, not only carried her train, but held over the head of the

daughter of Hamilcar an umbrella of Robinson Crusoe dimensions. Her gold

crown fell off once while walking about, and Choiseul made every one laugh

when he picked it up and put it on his own black locks. She walked on all

unconscious, and wondered why people laughed.

My costume was that of a Spanish dancer. Worth told me that he had put his

whole mind upon it; it did not feel much heavier for that: a banal yellow

satin skirt, with black lace over it, the traditional red rose in my hair,

red boots and a bolero embroidered in steel beads, and small steel balls

dangling all over me. Some com-pliments were paid to me, but unfortunately

not enough to pay the bill; if compliments would only do that sometimes,

how gladly we would receive them! But they are, as it is, a drug in the

market.

The Emperor was in domino--his favorite disguise--which is no disguise at

all, for every one recognizes him.

[Illustration: DANIEL FRANÇOIS ESPRIT AUBER]

I met the famous Auber at the Tuileries ball. The Duke de Persigny brought

him and introduced him to me, not because Auber asked to be presented, but

because I was most anxious to make his acquaintance, and begged the duke

to bring him. He is a short, dapper little man, with such a refined and

clever face.

Wit and repartee sparkle in his keen eyes. His music is being very much

played now--"Fra Diavolo" and "Dieu et la Bayadère," and others of his

operas. His music is like himself--fine and dainty, and full of

_esprit_; his name is Daniel François Esprit. M. de Persigny said, "Madame

Moulton desires to know you, Monsieur Auber." I said, "I hope you will not

think me indiscreet, but I did want to see you and know the most-talked-

about person in Paris." In reply he said: "You have the advantage over me,

Madame. I have never heard myself talked about." Then the Duke de Persigny

said something about my voice. Auber turned to me, and said, "May I not

also have the privilege of hearing you?" Of course I was tremendously

pleased, and we fixed a day and hour then and there for his visit.

Prince Jérome, who is a cousin of the Emperor (people call him Plon-Plon),

is not popular; in fact, he is just the contrary. But his wife, the

Princess Clothilde, would be exceedingly popular if she gave the Parisians

a chance to see her oftener. She is so shy, so young, and the least

pretentious of princesses, hates society, and never goes out if she can

avoid it. Prince Jérome is, of all the Napoleonic family, the one who most

resembles Napoleon I. in appearance, but not in character. There is

nothing of the hero about him. Since he had the misfortune to be suddenly

indisposed the night before the battle of Solferino, and did not appear,

they call him "craint-plomb." _Sé non è vero è ben trovato._

The stories people tell of the Prince are awful; but one is not obliged to

believe them if one does not want to.

There was such an amusing _soirée_ at the Duke de Morny's in honor of

the Duchess's birthday. They gave a play called "Monsieur Choufleuri

restera chez lui le.......," which the Duke wrote himself, and for which

Offenbach composed the music inspired by the Duke, who vowed that he

"really did make the most of it." But, his conscience pricking him, he

added, "At least some!" which I think was nearer the truth.

It was a great success, whether by the Duke de Morny or by Offenbach, and

was the funniest thing I ever saw. Every one was roaring with laughter,

and when the delighted audience called for "l'auteur," the Duke came out

leading Offenbach, each waving his hand toward the other, as if success

belonged to him alone, and went off bowing their thanks together. Apropos

of the Duke de Morny, he said of himself: "I am a very complicated person.

_Je suis le fils d'une reine, frère d'un Empereur et gendre d'un Empereur,

et tous sont illégitimes_." It does sound queer! But he really is the son

of Queen Hortense (his father being Count Flahaut); he is in this way an

illegitimate brother of Napoleon III., and his wife is the daughter of the

Emperor Nicholas of Russia. There you have a complicated case. My young

sister-in-law has just married Count Hatzfeldt, of the German Embassy

(second secretary). He is very good-looking without being handsome, and

belongs to one of the most distinguished families in Germany. Countess

Mercy-Argenteau appeared, comet-like, in Paris, and although she is a very

beautiful woman, full of musical talent, and calls herself _une femme

politique_, she is not a success. The gentlemen say she lacks charm. At

any rate, none of the _élégantes_ are jealous of her, which speaks for

itself. She is not as beautiful as Madame de Gallifet, nor as _élégante_

as Countess Pourtales, nor as clever as Princess Metternich.

Madame Musard, a beautiful American, has a friendship (_en tout

déshonneur_) with a foreign royalty who made her a present of some--

what he thought valueless--shares of a petroleum company in America. These

shares turned into gold in her hands.

The royal gentleman gnashes his false teeth in vain, and has scene after

scene with the royal son, who, green with rage, reproaches him for having

parted with these treasures. But the shares are safely in the clutches of

papa in New York, far away, and furnishing the wherewithal to provide his

daughter with the most wonderful horses and equipages in Paris. She pays

as much for one horse as her husband gains by his music in a year, and as

for the poor prodigal prince, who is overrun with debts, he would be

thankful to have even a widowed papa's mite of her vast wealth. Another

lady, whose virtue is some one else's reward, has a magnificent and much-

talked-of hotel in the Champs Élysées, where there is a staircase worth a

million francs, made of real alabaster. Prosper Mérimée said: "C'est par

là qu'on monte à la vertu."

Her salons are filled every evening with cultured men of the world, and

they say that the most refined tone reigns supreme--that is more than one

can say of every salon in Paris.

I am taking lessons of Delle Sedie. He is a delightful teacher; he is so

intelligent and has such beautiful theories, and so many of them, that he

takes up about half the time of my lesson talking them over.

This is one of the things he says: "Take your breath from your boots." It

sounds better said in French: _Prenez votre respiration dans vos

bottines._ I don't think he realizes what he says or what he wants me

to do. When I told him that I had sung somewhere unwillingly, having been

much teased, he said: "You must not be too amiable. You must not sing when

and what one asks. There is nothing like being begged. You are not a hand-

organ, _pardieu_, that any one can play when they like." And this sort of

talk alternates with my songs until time is up, when off I run or go,

feeling that I have learned little but talked much. However, sometimes

I do feel compensated; for when, to demonstrate a point, he will sing a

whole song, I console myself by thinking that I have been to one of his

concerts and paid for my ticket.

Yesterday I received the inclosed letter from the Duke de Morny, inviting

us to go with him in his loge to see a new play called "Le déluge." It was

not much of a play; but it was awfully amusing to see. Noah and his three

sons and his three daughters-in-law marched into the ark dragging after

them some wiry, emaciated débris of the Jardin des Plantes, which looked

as if they had not eaten for a week. The amount of whipping and poking

with sticks which was necessary to get them up the plank was amazing; I

think they had had either too few or too many rehearsals. But they were

all finally pushed in. Then commenced the rain--a real pouring cats-and-

dogs kind of rain, with thunder and lightning and the stage pitch-dark.

The whole populace climbed up on the rocks and crawled about, drenched to

the skin, and little by little disappeared. Then, when one saw nothing but

"water, water everywhere," the ark suddenly loomed out on top of the rocks

(how could they get it up there?), and the whole Noah family stepped out

in a pink-and-yellow sunset, and a dear little dove flew up to Noah's hand

and delivered the olive branch to him. The dove was better trained than

the animals, and had learned his rôle very well.

On coming out of the theater, we found, instead of the fine weather we had

left outside, a pouring rain which was a very good imitation of the deluge

inside. And none of us had an umbrella!

You see what the Duke de Morny writes: "I am making a collection of

photographs of the young and elegant ladies of Paris. I think that you

ought to figure among them, and though it is not an equal exchange, I am

going to ask you to accept mine and give me yours." And he brought it to

me last night.

An invitation for the ball at St. Cloud for the King of Spain, who is now

in Paris to inaugurate the new rail road to Madrid, and another ball at

the Tuileries will keep us busy this week.

PETIT VAL, _June 17th._ We have been here a week, rejoicing in the

lilacs and roses and all the spring delights. The nightingales are more

delightful than ever. There is one charmer in particular, who warbles most

enchantingly in the cedar-tree in front of my window. He has a lady-love

somewhere, and he must be desperately in love, for he sings his little

heart out on his skylarking tours to attract her attention. I try hard

(naïve that I am) to imitate his song, especially the trill and the long,

sad note. I wonder if either of them is deceived: whether she thinks that

she has two lovers (one worse than the other), or, if _he_ thinks he has a

poor rival who can't hold a candle to him.

Auber wrote a cadenza for the "Rossignol" of Alabieff, which he thought

might be in nightingale style. But how can any one imitate a nightingale?

Auber, in one of his letters, asked me: "Chantez-vous toujours des duos

avec votre maître de... champs?"

[Illustration: À MADAME LILLIE MOULTON]

In the Courts of Memory, 1858-1875; from Contemporary Letters · 第 17 / 153 题