=576.= =Verge Pallets: to Measure their Opening.= The little instrument

shown in Fig. 259 may be used for this purpose; its mode of action will

be easily understood from an inspection of the figure.

[Illustration: _Fig. 259._]

One of the pallets being held with its flat face against the base of

the graduated semicircle by the lever and spring B, so that the axis of

the verge is at right angles to the plane of the instrument through the

point _n_, an index previously fixed to the other pallet will show by

the graduations the number of degrees of opening.

This index, shown at P, Fig. 160, must be very light. It is formed in

two parts, the body _c d_, and the small spring _z z_. The pallet when

held in the notch _c_, must have its face held flat against _c d_ by

the spring _z z_. The face _c d_ of the index must be quite smooth and

straight, so as to avoid any error in the reading of the scale.

[Illustration: _Fig. 260._]

The pressure-block C, Fig. 259 (shown in plan and elevation at C, Fig.

260), is movable on its center, and this center, which by an engraver’s

error is represented on the line _n r_, should be a little to the right

of that line.

=577.= =To Open or Close Verge Pallets.= Some workmen cut a notch at

the end of a small rod in which the verge is inserted, the two arms

of the fork being then drawn together by a screw; then, holding each

pallet in a pair of long-nosed pliers, one in each hand, the rod is

held in the flame of a lamp and, as soon as the body of the verge

becomes blue, it is gently twisted to the right or left according as

the pallets require to be opened or closed.

This method is not always convenient, and the following may be

recommended:

[Illustration: _Fig. 261._]

Support the verge by its shoulders between two cone-plate centers in a

pair of finishing turns, as seen in Fig. 261. A carrier _b_ is screwed

to the upper pallet, and prevents the verge from rotating; _c_ is a rod

through which heat is conducted; _a_, shown both in plan and elevation,

is another rod, which is much longer than _c_, and has a notch cut at

the end, so that it can be forced on to the lower pallet. The end _d_

is free, and the =T=-rest shown dotted at _s_, must be brought nearly

into contact with it, the distance between them corresponding to the

angle to which it is required to alter the opening of the pallets.

Now hold a lamp under the free end of _c_ and, as soon as the body

of the verge changes color, _d_ will descend by its own weight until

arrested by _s_, the opening will thus be increased or diminished to

the requisite extent.

The operation will be accomplished more quickly by directing the

blow-pipe flame against the verge body.

Of course when diminishing the opening, the verge must be held in the

reverse direction to that shown in the figure.

CYLINDER.

=578.= =To Polish the Cylinder Lips Mechanically.= The polishing of the

lips of a cylinder is one of the most delicate operations that can be

undertaken by a watchmaker; we have, therefore, endeavored to devise

an instrument by which this can be done mechanically, and which should

at the same time be so simple and so easily made that any watchmaker

should be able to construct it for himself.

[Illustration: _Fig. 262._]

=579.= It consists of two distinct parts which take their place in an

ordinary pair of finishing turns. 1. The plate P, Fig. 262, supported

on a rod T, to take the place of the =T=-rest. 2. The frame E, whose

axis replaces one of the runners. This much being clearly understood

from the figure, there will be but little difficulty in understanding

the following details.

[Illustration: _Fig. 263._]

On the plate P is mounted a bracket, _b b b′_, held by a screw and

washer. It has a slot cut lengthwise, so that on loosening the screw it

can be made to slide towards the right or left. The vertical portion

_b′_ supports a fork-shaped piece, _d c_, a front view of which is

given in Fig. 263, pivoted on a collet-screw, _f_, and this may be

fixed by a pin passing through its end like a bolt. The upper end

of the fork-piece is provided with teeth for a purpose that will be

presently apparent.

The long spindle, _g h_, turns between the two supports, _k_, _l_,

fixed to the plate P, under the action of the handle M. This axis

carries two eccentric cams, _q_ and R. When it rotates, the eccentric R

causes the fork _d c_ to rise and fall, thus occasioning an oscillating

movement of the rack _d_, at the same time the other eccentric _q_

presses against the back of the slide _i n_, which moves freely in the

guide _s_, and is always held against the cam by a helical spring _j_;

the slide thus has an oscillating motion in the direction of its length.

[Illustration: _Fig. 264._]

All the details in regard to the slide and its guide will be easily

gathered from the plan in Fig. 262, and the side elevation in Fig. 264.

A small iron polisher is adapted to the slide _n i_. Being pivoted on

a pin at one extremity, serving as an axis, its end _u_ is pressed

downward by the light spring _v_ (Figs. 262 and 264), which might be

replaced by a spiral spring below the polisher if preferred.

=580.= This being understood, we will pass to the frame E.

The rod that carries it is formed of thick drawn steel pinion wire, the

diameter of which is less than that of the hole in the poppet-head of

the turns. This spindle is provided with brass collars at _y_ and _z_

of such an external diameter as to be received in the poppet-head, in

which the rod can rotate freely. By adopting this arrangement, not only

is the frictional surface diminished, without reducing the accuracy of

the adjustment, but the apparatus can be easily adapted to any pair of

turns.

[Illustration: _Fig. 265._]

To the right-hand side of the frame is fixed, by two screws, the

cylinder carrier _x_ shown at X, Fig. 265. It must be removed in

order to set the cylinder in position by cementing its balance to the

surface; care is necessary to make sure that the back of the cylinder

shall be towards the side _e_ of the frame when the carrier is again

screwed in position. After having thus replaced it, set the rack _d_

to engage with the pinion wire _z_, in such a manner that, when the

eccentric cam R occupies the position indicated in Fig. 263, the small

iron polisher rests at the middle point of the cylinder lip. Now

finally clamp the screw that fixes the support T.

The mode of action of the machine will be easily understood. If, after

charging the polisher with polishing rouge the handle M is rotated,

the cam R will impart an oscillating angular movement to the frame E

through its axis _y z_, and the cam _q_ will, at the same time, cause

the polisher to move backwards and forwards, always in contact with the

surface of the lip during its movement.

=581.= The work will be performed more rapidly, and the polish will be

better if the iron have a slight lateral motion as well as that in the

direction of its length. It is, however, more simple to communicate a

longitudinal oscillating movement to the cylinder, and this answers the

same purpose; it is only necessary to make two small additions, the

spiral spring _o_ and the little cock _a_. The latter is fixed to _d_

in an inclined position (as indicated at A), and this inclination can

be varied by merely turning the left-hand screw. It will be evident

that when _d_ is ascending, the cock will push the spindle _y z_

forward; and when _d_ descends, the spindle will be brought back to its

initial position by the pressure of the spring _o_, which is simply

placed over the end of the opposite runner. This longitudinal movement

must be but slight, and it can be made as little as desired since it

depends solely on the inclination of _a_.

=582.= _Observations._ 1. The angular motion of the frame E must be

sufficient to enable the polisher to act on the entire surface of the

lip. The extent of this movement is determined by the size and the

degree of eccentricity of the cam R. The greatest motion will occur

when the spindle passes through the hole 1 (Fig. 263), and it will

gradually become less as the holes 2, 3, etc., are used. The cam _q_

should also have two or three holes for varying its eccentricity. These

cams may be made of hard wood, ivory, etc.

2. The iron polisher may be replaced by a piece of flexible spring

fixed by a screw to the slide; but its pressure is less uniform.

3. The bent arm _w_, Figs. 262 and 265, is clamped to the plate P by

a screw _d_, and the long arm _b_, Fig. 265, bears against the back

of the poppet-head, and thus ensures the steadiness of P. To insure

steadiness by its means, _b_ is drawn back in the direction of the

arrow, then hooked behind the poppet-head and clamped by the screw

_d_. The firmer the support is the better.

4. The machine may be arranged so that the two lips can be polished

at the same time, but it then becomes more complicated. In the tool

here described, as soon as one lip is polished the cylinder carrier is

unscrewed, turned around, and screwed against the left arm of the frame

E, in which are two screw-holes opposite to those in the right-hand

arm. Unscrewing the slide _b b_, the =T=-rest carrier is moved along

the lathe bar until the polisher is over the lip; _b b_ having been set

in position is clamped, and, after seeing that _w_ has a bearing, the

second lip may be polished.

5. The cylinder carrier shown at X, Fig. 265, is used when the balance

is in position. For a plain cylinder without its balance another form

of carrier is employed that has at the edge of its central hole a small

but solid projecting shell to which the cylinder is cemented.

=583.= _Methods of Obtaining Continuous Motion._ Rapid work is not

possible when a single handle, as shown at M, is used for working

the apparatus; recourse may, however, be had to one of the following

methods:

1. Mount a small pinion with a square hole at its center, and make it

engage with a large wheel driven by a handle. This wheel, having a

great number of teeth, will proportionately increase the rate of motion.

2. Take a powerful clock movement and connect up its center arbor with

the axis _g h_; having wound up the main spring, allow it to run down

so long as it possesses sufficient power to drive the mechanism.

3. Fix a ferule at _h_, and drive it by the aid of a foot-wheel.

BALANCE SPRING.

=584.= =To Select a Balance Spring.= Various methods are adopted for

this purpose. The most common, by which the strength is ascertained

from the length of cone formed by hanging the balance from the inner

coil of the spring while the outer is held in a pair of tweezers. A

more exact method, based on the same principle, is to employ the small

gauge shown in Fig. 266.

[Illustration: _Fig 266._]

A vertical pillar _n n_ is fixed on a smooth plate B, and the slide

C is held by friction in any position on _n n_. Place C so that the

distance between _c′_ and B is equal to the distance between the end

of the lower balance-staff pivot and the balance-spring collet. Having

now fitted the spring in this collet, raise the balance, by tweezers

holding the outer coil, until the lower pivot just rests on B. The

graduations on C will then afford a measure of the extension of the

spring, and this extension should about equal the radius of the balance

measured on the same scale.

When the number of vibrations performed in an hour is known, a spring

may be selected by fitting it to the balance and, while holding the

outer coils in the tweezers, supporting the lower pivot on a hard

smooth surface; the balance is then made to vibrate and the vibrations

are counted. The spring need not be pinned into the collet, but may be

attached by wax to the top pivot.

=585.= =To Fix a Balance-Spring to its Collet.= A common way of doing

this is to put the collet on a wire or broach which is held in one hand

while the other presents the inner end of the spring, held in tweezers,

to the hole in the collet; subsequently fixing it with a pin. The

following is a more convenient method:

At the middle of a brass plate is a boss tapped through a vertical hole

in its center to receive a small screw with flat head. When the collet

is fixed by this screw passing through it, the operation of setting the

spring in position and pinning it will be much facilitated, and the

plate will at the same time afford a means of testing its parallelism.

Two or three screws with heads of various sizes should be provided,

and, in order that they may be always available, they should be screwed

into holes at a corner of the plate.

This tool might be made of further use by adding an arrangement for

holding the stud while drilling it, with a view to ensure that the hole

is at the proper height.

[Illustration: _Fig. 267._]

=586.= =Balance-Spring Gauge.= A back view and side elevation of

this are shown in Fig. 267; it can be made without difficulty by any

watchmaker.

Through the middle of the plate passes a staff _a b_ lightly pivoted

between the cock _p_ and the plate, and projecting on the left-hand

side as far as the point _a_. Between the cock and plate it carries the

collet of the spiral spring _s_ and the stop-finger _d c_, and at the

point _z_ is a light finger _y z_ that passes over the graduations on

the dial.

When the stop-finger _d c_ is free it stands in the direction of the

dotted line _i_; on rotating the staff, by taking hold of the pivot

_a_, in the direction of the arrow _i_, the extremity _c_ of the finger

will be brought round till it presses against the inclined plane _r_,

which it will force back and, on coming against the stop near _c_, it

will be held fast in the notch of the small bent lever that terminates

at _r_. A spring maintains this lever always against a pin set in the

plate. The index finger _y z_ will now be standing over the zero of

the scale, and will be maintained in that position until the finger _d

c_ is released by a momentary pressure of the hand on the push-piece

_n_, when it will fly back to the initial position corresponding to the

dotted line _i_.

=587.= The instrument is used as follows: The small sliding holder

H, which is shown in section at E, (both of these figures being much

enlarged since it is extremely fine and light), has a hole through its

center that fits on to the axis at _a_. Having set a balance spring in

the clip as indicated at E, place H on the pivot _a_, tightening the

slide so that it can be used to rotate _a b_, and bring the stop-finger

round to the position _d c_. Holding the outer coil of the spring in

tweezers at _v_, its inner coil being held in the clip, release the

bent arm by means of the push-piece _n_. The point on the dial at which

the finger _y z_ is arrested will give a measure of the force of the

balance spring _v_.

It will be evident that a spring can now be easily selected of the same

strength as _v_, or stronger or weaker within definite limits which

will become well known when some use has been made of the instrument.

The entire mechanism is enclosed within a box that is covered by a

glass, through the middle of which a hole is made for the passage

of _a_. The spring _s_ is of about the strength ordinarily used for

18-line watches.

[Illustration: _Fig. 268._]

=588.= =To Set a Breguet Spring in Position.= To test the strength of

a flat spiral spring that is to be formed into a Breguet spring, it

must first be attached by its collet to the balance-staff. As the outer

coil cannot be held in the stud owing to its being so near to the pivot

hole, it must be held in the clip _b_ of the little appliance shown at

S, Fig. 268. Holding the watch-plate between _a_ and _c_, the arm D can

rise or fall on the rod _h_, and _b_ can be brought to such a position

that it grips the spring at a point just beyond the stud, so that,

when the spring is turned inward, the point held may be brought up to

the stud. The springing of the watch can thus be proceeded with, and

springs tried until one of the required strength is obtained. It then

only remains to give the spring the double curvature, and to take care

that the end of the overcoil is brought sufficiently near to the center.

Since the action of a Breguet spring is more free than that of an

ordinary flat spring, the watch may be found to lose slightly; it is

advisable therefore to time the watch before making the bend, so as to

show a gain. A little experience will enable the watchmaker to avoid

being much out, and any trifling error that there may be is corrected

either by a displacement of bend or by altering the central coil. If

the latter method is to be resorted to, it is better that the watch

should lose rather than gain a little.

=589.= =To Flatten an Ordinary Balance Spring.= Remove the collet and

stud, and clamp the spring by a central screw between two plates, which

are then placed on a blueing tray and gently heated. A small piece of

whitened steel is laid on the plate in order to see that the heat does

not exceed what is needed to give a blue temper. Allow the plates to

cool and separate them.

Ordinary springs being made of rolled steel and subsequently coiled,

always open out on heating; it is therefore necessary before resorting

to the above method, to coil up the spring, as otherwise the outer turn

will be found to have opened beyond the stud.

=590.= =To Diminish the Strength of a Balance Spring.= Scraping the

end or the entire length always renders the spring defective. Dipping

in acid is very little better. It is preferable to embed the spring in

cork or soft pith, and work it over a ground glass plate covered with

oil stone dust that is fine and smooth. This method might be resorted

to for reducing the height of a mainspring.

[Illustration: _Fig. 269._]

If the cork or pith is hard and only a little metal has to be removed,

the operation is successful; but it is apt to result in more metal

being removed from the edges than from the center. When much has to be

removed, the spring must be cemented to the polishing plate (shown at

G, Fig. 269, and described in article =345=) with fine wax, thoroughly

liquid, so that on pressing the spring all its coils may come in

contact with the plate; it must be held thus until cold. Now adjust the

leveling screws, so that the whole surface bears flat on the glass; rub

it as long as is considered necessary, and detach the spring as soon as

the plate is sufficiently heated; boil in alcohol to clean its surface.

=591.= =To Harden Gold Springs.= Gold detent, thermometer, suspension

and balance-springs can be obtained of a high degree of elasticity.

Rolling hardens them, but renders them very brittle. They can be made

supple and elastic, not by hardening, as in the case of steel, but by

annealing, care being taken not to exceed a certain degree of heat. The

spring may be coiled on a block and placed in a tube that has a smooth

steel lid, then heat the tube in the flame of a spirit lamp, and as

soon as the steel is of a blue temper, remove the flame and allow the

whole to cool.

Others anneal by keeping the spring in boiling oil for a definite

period.

The hardness of a gold spring increases with the proportions of alloy

it contains, and, if well annealed, it will be very elastic and will

break when bent too far, as in the case of steel.

=592.= =To Ease an Index on Its Endstone Cap.= It is a common but bad

practice among watchmakers to scrape the inside of the ring of the

index or to cut it through. A better method is as follows: Resting

the index on a cork, cover the inside of its ring with oil stone dust

and make the cap rotate in its seat by means of a pinion calliper, the

two points of which are inserted in the screw-holes. The operation is

repeated as often as may be required.

DIAL PLATE.

=593.= =To Cut the Large Hole in the Timepiece Dial Plate.= Some

workmen cut the hole in the dial-plate of a timepiece by means of a

strong pair of compasses, one leg of which terminates in a bullet-nose

that is supported in a central hole, while the other is provided with a

hardened cutting point that serves to scrape out a groove.

Others use a rule that revolves on a conical point and carries a slide

with a tracing point which can be replaced by a sharp-pointed cutter.

Proceed in exactly the same manner as when using the compass, but a

greater force can be applied, because, while one hand steadies the

center, the full force of the other is applied to the cutter.

A third and still simpler plan is adopted by some clockmakers. A rod

of the diameter of the central hole, and a cutter of which only the

cutting point projects, are gripped in a vise at a distance apart equal

to the radius of the hole to be made. Then passing the rod through the

central hole and holding the plate in both hands, rotate it, at the

same time applying pressure so as to cause the cutter to form a groove.

When a moderate depth has been attained, invert the plate and cut one

on the opposite side. Care is necessary when the grooves are on the

point of uniting; on the removal of the center, smooth the edge with a

half round file. Some workmen consider it more convenient to set the

cutter and rod in a thick piece of wood that is rounded at the top and

made flat on its two sides towards the bottom, so as to be firmly held

in the vise.

=594.= =To Drill an Enamel Dial.= Take a hard, well-sharpened graver

and moisten it with turpentine or turpentine that contains camphor in

solution, or in the following mixture, which is still better:

Turpentine 62 parts by weight.

Oxalate of potassium 4 ” ”

Camphor 4 ” ”

The two latter substances are reduced to powder and dissolved in the

turpentine, and two parts by weight of sandal wood may be added.

The graver point is placed on the dial at the point at which a hole

is required and the graver is rotated backwards and forwards between

the fingers. Practice, acquired by drilling a few holes in broken

dials, will soon indicate the degree of pressure that can be applied

without fear of accident. Some workmen prefer only to apply the maximum

pressure while the graver rotates in one direction, reducing it during

the opposite movement; others hold the handle or tang in one hand and

rotate the graver with the other, always in the same direction.

The operation is continued, frequently arresting it, however, in order

to set the graver and moisten it, until the copper-plate and back

enamel are perforated.

As soon as this point is reached, take an iron or steel spindle,

pointed at one end. The point must be more obtuse than the hole already

formed in the dial. Charge this end with emery or oilstone dust, and

place in the chuck in your lathe; when the spindle is caused to revolve

the enamel on the contour of the hole will be rapidly removed. When

the copper disc is reached, a fine-pointed and sharp graver must be

used to remove the metal that is exposed as well as that which is

covered with only a thin layer of enamel; then renew the operation

with the spindle, occasionally drawing a file along the surface of the

acting cone. Or the cones of solid emery to be obtained at material

stores can be used for this purpose. A workman must be very careless or

unskilful to fail in rapidly drilling a hole in a dial by this method

without accident, and he may carry on the process easily until the hole

is large enough to permit the introduction of a rat-tail file.

=595.= =To Enlarge a Dial-Hole With a Rat-Tail File.= As an extra

precaution the contour of the hole on either side may be coned with a

spindle as explained above, so as to reduce the thickness of enamel to

be acted upon by the file; but a watchmaker that has had any experience

can dispense with such a preliminary, which we would at the same time

recommend.

The file must enter the hole freely. If only the point can do this, the

file must be held very short, so that the finger may come in contact

with the dial before the larger diameter of the file locks in the hole,

as this would almost certainly crack the enamel. Some workmen avoid

such an accident by forcing on to the file a rather long cork of small

diameter.

With a view to avoid scratching the face of the dial in case the file

is drawn out of the hole in its backward movement, it is well to round

off and polish its point.

During the forward movement a slight circular motion is given to the

file, and in returning no pressure is to be applied; the file must

merely slide over the surface. It is dipped from time to time in the

liquid mentioned in the last article. When the hole is large enough,

a conical spindle should be used to smooth its edges as in the earlier

stages of the process.

=596.= =To Remove Enamel from the Back.= To remove portions of the

enamel from the back when it touches part of the motion work, etc.,

various methods are adopted.

The little spindles of solid emery that may be obtained at material

stores may be used for the purpose.

Some watchmakers use a flattened lead ball perforated at its center and

carried on a taper arbor, forming a kind of small grindstone, rounded

across its rim. The arbor is held in a chuck and the edge of the lead

disc is moistened with water, and emery powder sprinkled over it; when

set in rotation the surface to be removed is held against the lead,

the necessary pressure being applied by the finger against the other

face. Water must be frequently sprinkled on the surface so as to avoid

heating, and to maintain the emery in its place, and the dial is washed

occasionally to examine the progress of the work.

In place of lead, some use emery formed into a solid block with shellac

or various kinds of cement; it is centered on a large taper arbor, and

should be at least a quarter of an inch thick and rounded at its edge.

Such a disc is very hard when cold; it is used in the manner explained

in the last paragraph, but wears more rapidly than the lead disc, if

the latter is well made and supplied with emery of the right degree of

coarseness, in sufficient abundance and evenly distributed.

=597.= =Dials Fixed by Screws through the Edges.= The screw-holes at

the edge are drilled in the manner already explained in article =594=,

and the center hole is enlarged as there described, if this is found

to be necessary in order to permit the free passage of the hour wheel.

The diameter of a dial may be reduced if it is too large in the manner

explained in article =600=. When it has been thus prepared, place it in

position, the XII being exactly opposite the pendant, with the movement

in the case, and close the bezel. If the dial is found to shake under

the bezel it should be fixed with three or four small wedges of

pegwood, care being taken that they do not subject the dial to much

pressure. The accuracy of the position may be tested by holding a

stretched piece of cord over the dial, and observing whether it passes

at the same time through the middle of the pendant, the center hole,

the XII and the VI. When the dial is thus found to be properly placed,

mark one of screw-holes on the watch-plate through a dial-hole. Some

care is necessary in doing this lest the hole is marked eccentrically

or the dial is displaced by pressure against one side of the hole in

it, which might result in the dial being cracked by the screw. Now

remove the plate from its case and drill its screw hole in the drilling

tool; tap it and fit the screw. Replace the plate in the case, and,

after fixing the dial to it with the one screw thus fitted, carefully

mark the second hole, etc.

Some workmen expedite the operation by marking and drilling the two

holes at the same time; but if at first they do not succeed in making

them in the required position they materially increase the time

occupied, as one hole at least requires to be bushed, etc.

=598.= =Dials Held in Position by Feet.= If the dial has feet, and it

is required to adapt them to the plate, they must be first carefully

bent straight; then take a piece of stiff card board of moderate

thickness, and laying it on a piece of lead, punch out with a

sharp-edged punch, or other means, a round hole of the diameter of a

foot. Having inserted one foot in this hole, and placed the card on a

flat surface with the dial uppermost, apply a slight pressure to this

latter so as to mark the position of the second foot. Then punch out a

second similar hole at the point thus indicated. If the operation has

been properly conducted the two feet will enter the holes easily, but

at the same time without constraint or shake, and they should project

on the opposite side.

It now only remains to cut out the cardboard to the size of the plate,

and, after making a central hole and a mark to exactly correspond with

noon, to place it in position in the frame and under the bezel, as

though it were the actual dial. Then mark the two holes for the dial

feet, using a sharp-pointed chamferer that just fits the hole, held

vertical and rotated by one hand, while pressure is applied by a finger

of the other hand.

Some workmen merely prick holes in the card with some sharp-pointed

instrument, or even force the feet through it at all risks; hence it

happens that feet are often bent out of the vertical, and, in order to

be able to bend them into the required position, it becomes necessary

to enlarge the holes in the plate and bend the dial feet.

[Illustration: _Fig. 270._]

=599.= =To Cut a Large Hole in a Dial. To set a Seconds Dial.= This

operation is performed in the ordinary lathe. The hole is cut by a

ring of thin iron or copper cut with saw-like teeth round its edge, as

shown at V, Fig. 270, kept in rotation and charged with fine emery and

oil or water or, what is better, turpentine. The mixture described in

article =594= will secure a still more rapid action.

It is advisable that the thickness of the ring be made to gradually

diminish from _e_ towards _i_, as indicated by the section at S, so as

to prevent it from choking and probably cracking the dial.

The following arrangement may be adopted: Prepare a strong ring with a

projecting internal ridge, shown in section at A B C; cement the dial,

_g d_, to this ridge, or fix it by any convenient means, and attach

this supporting ring to a chuck that rotates in a direction opposite to

that of the cutter, but much less rapidly. On reaching the copper disc,

reverse A B C and repeat the above process on the back enamel. The

copper is thus exposed on the two sides. On filling the deeper groove

with dilute nitric acid the metal will gradually be eaten away, and the

acid should be renewed as often as may be needed. It then only remains

to smooth the edge, beveling it on the front side, and to cement the

seconds dial in position.

The use of acid may be avoided and the cutter passed through the

copper, but greater care must be exercised, because the work is more

difficult when operating on metal. It will, however, not be difficult

after a few trials.

Willis recommends that the dial be cut straight through, commencing at

the back and using emery and oil, the dial being cemented on a brass

block immediately below the cutter, and rather less in diameter than

the hole produced. He mounts the cutter on a stock that is provided

with a pump center, the point of which is maintained throughout the

operation in the small hole or point that marks the center of the hole.

The great advantage of this method is that the taper of the hole is in

the required direction and no filing is necessary.

=600.= =To Reduce the Diameter of a Dial.= Resting the dial in an

inclined position against a block, file its edge with a smooth or

half-smooth file, which must only be allowed to act while advancing,

and is at the same time displaced sideways and turned so as to follow

the contour of the dial. The file should be dipped occasionally in

turpentine, and when sufficient enamel has been removed, pass a new

emery stick over it to remove the file marks.

=601.= =To Remove a Figure or Name from a Dial.= Oil of spike lavender

may be employed for erasing a letter or number.

Enamel powder made into a paste with water, oil, or turpentine, is also

used for this purpose. It should be previously decanted so as to obtain

several degrees of fineness. The powder used for re-polishing the

surface where an impression has been removed must be extremely fine. It

is applied on a piece of pegwood, although some use ivory.

The last and best system is to use diamond powder. Take a little of

the powder, made into a paste with fine oil, on the end of a copper

polisher, the surface of which has been freshly filed and slightly

rounded. On rubbing the marks they will be seen to rapidly disappear.

The surface is left a little dull; it may be rendered bright by rubbing

with the same powder mixed with a greater quantity of oil and applied

with a stick of pegwood.

Watchmakers will do well to try several degrees of fineness of the

diamond powder on old dials.

METAL DIALS.

=602.= =To Restore a Silver Dial.= We proceed to describe several

methods of doing this, but would at once observe that when the

earlier ones are adopted, the hours, if they are painted, necessarily

disappear; whereas they can be retained by resorting to the last method

although great caution must in that case be taken; moreover, it is much

more difficult to accomplish than the others.

=603.= First Method. This is the most expeditious system, and at the

same time the most certain of success.

If the hours are in enamel, there need be no fear; if engraved and

filled with black composition, this will disappear, but it can be

replaced without difficulty. There remains the case of painted hours to

be considered.

First make thin marks with a fine point along the lines of all the

figures, taking care not to pass beyond their ends: and do the same

for the dots and lines that indicate the seconds. By using a glass and

following the instructions given in article =619=, no difficulty will

be experienced in doing this, and the fine lines and dots thus made

will afford sufficient guide for re-marking the hours.

Begin by cleaning the dial with a brush and fine pumice-stone so as to

remove spots and slight scratches.

=604.= _To Frost the Surface._ In order to frost the surface of the

dial, take a spirit lamp with large wick, and direct a blow-pipe flame

from it against the under side of the dial, which is held by one hand

with a hooked support. If the flame is gently directed over the entire

surface of the back, a good dead surface is obtained that resists a

moderate degree of friction either in soaping with a fine sponge, or

washing in a large quantity of water, or in applying soft bread and oil

of spike lavender to erase irregularities or marks made in painting the

figures.

The application of the flame is several times repeated, so as to obtain

a decisive and even frosting; but it is necessary, with a view to avoid

buckling the thin metal, to place an iron or copper washer behind the

dial. The flame oxidizes the surface of the metal; that is to say,

it causes the oxygen of the air to combine with the copper which is

alloyed with silver.

=605.= _Pickling or Bleaching the Dial._ Introduce sufficient warm

water into a suitable flat vessel to completely cover the dial, and

gently pour into it a few drops of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), so

that the two liquids are in the proportion of about 1 to 10; then lay

the dial in this dilute acid for a period that varies from half to one

or two minutes. The frosting will first become yellow and then of a

beautiful white color. Wash it in a large quantity of water, wipe with

a fine linen rag, and apply the flame momentarily to the back in order

to prevent the formation of spots on the surface.

When several dials have to be operated upon, the acid is put in a

porcelain dish and boiled by a lamp. Then place each dial for a moment

in it, wash in an abundant suppl of water, and dry by tapping with a

fine linen rag.

=606.= Second Method. For the benefit of such as care to experiment

with it, we add the following method: Brush the dial with a coarse

brush and pumice-stone reduced to an impalpable powder until no

scratches are visible. Make it red-hot and allow to cool. Then dip for

two or three seconds in a porcelain vessel containing dilute sulphuric

acid; on removal it will be found to be white, but rather dull. In

order to produce a clear frosted surface, place the dial in a mixture of

6 parts by weight of nitric acid of 1.22 sp. gr.[8]

21 ” ” sulphuric acid.

50 ” ” water.

Allow the metal to remain in this acid until no more globules are seen

to form on its surface, then withdraw it and immediately place in cold

water. The dial will be observed to be nearly black; it is then pickled

as above explained (=605=), washed well, heated red-hot and, when cold,

again pickled; the operation is concluded by thoroughly washing its

surface.

=607.= _Third Method._[9] Cover the surface of the dial with a thin

layer of soap, and brush it over, taking care to avoid touching the

hours if these are not enamelled. This can best be done with a fine

brush and pumice stone reduced to an impalpable powder. When the dial

has been made as clean as possible by this means, wash it carefully

with water and tartrate of potash (cream of tartar), then plunge

it immediately in the hot solution of nitrate of silver (=608=)

attaching it to the silver wire which is fastened to the zinc and

copper discs =609=; in two or three minutes the surface of the metal

will be perfectly frosted, and, if each operation has been cautiously

performed, the hours will remain intact.

Each time the zinc and copper discs are used they should be cleaned

with nitric acid, and rubbed over with pumice stone. As soon as the

dial is clean, immerse it in the solution; the least delay is apt to

cause the surface to become oxidized through contact with the air.

=608.= _To Prepare the Silver Solution._ Dissolve an ounce[10] of solid

nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) in a small quantity of water; filter

the solution and add twice its volume of liquid ammonia. In a separate

vessel dissolve 6 ounces of yellow prussiate of potash and 4 ounces of

crystallized carbonate of soda in 60 ounces of water, contained in a

vessel of enamelled iron, which must be placed on the fire. When near

the boiling point add the concentrated solution of nitrate of silver,

and allow the mixture to boil for an hour, taking care to add hot water

in sufficient quantity to make up for that lost by evaporation; then

filter the resulting solution.

=609.= _To Prepare the Discs and to Plate._ In order to use this

solution for restoring a dial or plating any other object, take two

discs about the size of a half dollar, one made of zinc and the other

of copper, and, after making a small hole in each, unite them with a

copper wire, or, preferably, with one of silver. After having attached

the dial or other object to this connecting wire, immerse the entire

system in a glass or earthenware vessel, and pour over it a sufficient

quantity of the solution, previously made hot.

If the object operated upon is perfectly clean, bright and free from

all greasy or oily matter, its surface will be found in two or three

minutes to be covered with a firmly adherent layer of silver. When

only a small piece is treated it will suffice to immerse it in the hot

liquor, and rub it with the finger; a bright silvered surface will thus

be obtained.

=610.= =To Clean Metal Dials of Clocks.= When the hours are neither

enamelled nor engraved, it is necessary to first trace out the several

lines and dots in a manner similar to that explained in article =619=.

=611.= _Ordinary Mode of Cleaning the Dial._ Very often it is possible

to make a silver or plated dial of either watch or clock sufficiently

clean by merely brushing with powdered cream of tartar worked into a

paste with water, carefully rubbing around any painted figures with a

fine stiff brush. Then wash with clean water, dry by gently tapping

with a fine linen rag, and expose to a slight heat. (This is in part

the same method as is described in article =607=; the two may be

combined). If the dial is tarnished, it must be silvered as explained

below.

=612.= =To Plate a Brass Dial.= _Preparing the Silver._ Place in a

glass flask from 100 to 150 grains of pure silver made into thin strips

by means of a hammer or rolling mill. Add five or six times the weight

of dilute nitric acid so as to completely cover the silver, and warm

the vessel, taking care to avoid breathing the fumes or admitting them

to the workshop. The metal will be dissolved, and, on continuing the

application of heat until all the liquid is evaporated, crystals will

be found at the bottom. When cool fill the flask with warm water and,

as soon as all the crystals are dissolved, pour the solution into a

porcelain dish, previously half filled with water. Place in it a sheet

of clean copper of about the size of three fingers, and allow it to

remain for the night.

On the following day all the silver will be found attached to the

plate, and it can be collected by immersing this in water. Carefully

pour off the water from the fine powder thus obtained, and wash it once

or twice with an abundant supply of pure water; then dry thoroughly

with the application of very moderate heat. If the silver thus obtained

is not required for immediate use, it should be kept in a dark blue

bottle to avoid the influence of light and moisture.

=613.= _To Prepare the Surface of the Dial._ It must be quite smooth,

thoroughly washed and dried. M. Robert recommends that the smoothing

be accomplished by using soft water of Ayr stone, rubbing in all

directions, in order remove scratches. Or pegwood charcoal can be used,

sloped at one end like a whistle, and applied with water. Others employ

pumice-stone powder and very fine emery paper.

=614.= _To Apply the Silver._ Take equal parts of rock-salt and cream

of tartar, pound them together, and when well mixed, take about 60 or

80 grains of the mixture, and add to it 15 or 20 grains of silver,

prepared as above described, and add a few drops of water to form a

thick paste, which must be well mixed and worked up on a ground glass

plate by means of a horn spatula to remove all grits. A glass pestle

may be used for this purpose.

The dial having been prepared, take up some of the paste with a

perfectly clean and rather stiff brush, and spread it over the surface

of the dial, rubbing quickly and somewhat harshly. The brush should be

worked about in all directions, so as to avoid scratches, until the

silver is found to adhere firmly to the dial. According to M. Robert,

this rubbing is to be continued until the required grain is obtained;

but M. Fournier states that it should be arrested when the surface

possesses a lead-grey color; the dial is then well washed, dried, and

the operation re-commenced exactly as before except that the brush

used is softer. A good surface will thus be formed, and it will be

whiter if the proportion of silver in the paste is increased.

The result attained in great part depends on the skill of the operator,

and this can only be acquired by experience.

=615.= _Observations._ If the mixture contains too much of the salt or

too little silver, the latter will adhere with difficulty, and will

come off in lumps or scales; moreover, it will not have so white a

color.

As the proportion of silver is increased, the white becomes gradually

better; but, on the other hand, if it is in excess the surface will

be coarse and uneven. Too much or too little water will have nearly

the same effect. The color is worse if the dial has been imperfectly

smoothed, and when several days or even hours are allowed to elapse

between the cleaning and silvering.

It is essential that the rock-salt and the cream of tartar be perfectly

pure; if they contain any earthy matter it will scratch the surface and

impair its whiteness.

As soon as the operation is completed, the dial must be washed in an

abundant supply of pure water; any neglect in this particular will

cause it to blacken. This washing may be performed with an ordinary

watch-brush, charged with cream of tartar. Then rinse the dial, and

dry, tapping gently with a fine linen rag, and finish by slightly

warming it.

=616.= =Gold Dials.= It will not be necessary to say much on this

subject. In order to restore the color to a gold or gilt dial, it may

be dipped for a few seconds in the following mixture: Half an ounce of

cyanide of potassium is dissolved in a quart of hot water, and two

ounces of strong ammonia mixed with half an ounce of spirits of wine

and added to the solution. On removal from this bath, the dial is

immediately immersed in warm water; then brush with soap, rinse, and

dry in hot boxwood dust. Or it may be simply immersed in dilute nitric

acid, but in that case any painted figures will be destroyed.

=617.= _Another Receipt._ The following is the method ordinarily

adopted for coloring gold dials; but it is to be observed at the outset

that, although apparently characterized by extreme simplicity, a good

deal of skill is needed to ascertain when the mixture is of the right

consistency, and when the dial has been sufficiently exposed to its

action.

Make a mixture of 4 oz. saltpetre, 2 oz. alum and 2 oz. common salt

(the purest attainable), with a very little water. On placing this in

a blacklead crucible over the fire it will become limpid, and must

be allowed to boil until somewhat pasty and of a pale yellow color,

stirring all the while with a stick. Now take two dials, back to back,

that have been cleaned and blackened by annealing, and pass a platinum

wire through their centers so that they hang horizontally, resting

on a loop at its end; immerse the dials in the hot color crucible,

and, after holding it for a short time, withdraw them and immediately

immerse in a vessel of nearly boiling water standing close by. The

“color” will then be washed, and the progress of the work can be

observed. The dials are again dipped in the crucible if necessary, and

will probably require about three minutes’ immersion in all. It is

advisable that the “color” be thick rather than thin, as in the latter

case the dials are apt to be clouded.

=618.= =To Re-Paint the Hours on a Dial.= The following system has

reference to metallic dials, but the reader will be able to select

without difficulty the parts that are applicable to altering and

retouching the figures on an enamel dial.

We can answer from experience for its being successful, but would at

once observe that it cannot be practised hastily, because some skill

is essential in addition to patience and care: with them, success is

certain.

=619.= _First Method._ Before removing the hour figures and the

divisions for minutes, mark them with a fine steel point, using a lens

and proceeding with great caution. These marks will remain, so that

after the dial has been colored or otherwise treated, it will only be

necessary to trace over them with a fine brush charged with ink.

The short horizontal lines at the top and bottom of each figure, termed

serifs, as well as the two circles that enclose the minute divisions,

can be drawn with a sharpened point of the screw-bar compass.

=620.= _Second Method._ Lay on the dial to be treated, or on another

of the same dimensions that has the hours well marked, a piece of

tracing paper, so that neither it nor the dial can be displaced, and,

using India ink and a fine drawing pen, accurately trace the hour

figures and the minute divisions. When the ink is dry, invert the

paper and trace the figures, etc., thus obtained on the other side of

the paper, this time using a pencil instead of ink. Laying the paper

on the dial so that neither can slip, pass with a rounded point of

some soft metal over all the figures and divisions. Now remove the

paper without permitting it to rub against the dial. If the pencil

has been selected of a suitable degree of hardness, and the operation

skilfully conducted, the marks showing the hours and minutes will be

clearly visible, although faint, and, holding the glass to the eye, the

several marks must be traced over with a fine brush or pencil. If this

operation is performed carefully, the dial will present a very good

appearance.

=621.= _Third Method._ Place the dial within a kind of large barrel

that has at its center a thick pivot projecting. The three rules, D,

F, J, Fig. 271, can be fitted on to this by their central holes so as

to rotate on it. Being supported by the rim of the barrel, they will

pass very near to the surface of the dial without rubbing against it.

From an inspection of the figures it will be evident that D is used

for forming the bars of an X, F for those of a V, and J for that of an

I. Of course the serifs at either end of a numeral are made with the

compass.

[Illustration: _Fig. 271._]

It is unnecessary to observe that if the edge of the rim be graduated,

and the rules terminated by any convenient arrangement for arresting

their motion at the graduations, the hours can be traced on a dial from

which all marks have been erased. It then only remains to paint them in

with ink.

=622.= =Inks for Painting the Hours.= Work up some clean lampblack in

oil of spike lavender. Then add a small quantity of spirit varnish, and

thoroughly mix the whole. This is applied with a fine brush, and the

success of the operation depends very much on the selection of this

latter.

=623.= _Another Recipe._ Mix together ivory black, pure wax, and

turpentine; the more the turpentine is in excess, the more will the ink

be colored. It is best adapted for filling in the figures engraved in

dials, and a gentle heat should be applied to impart a smooth surface.

Any irregularities in the painting may be erased by the aid of oil of

spike lavender and soft bread.

HANDS.

=624.= =To Set a Watch-Hand in Position.= The most delicate part of

this operation is the enlarging of the center hole of a minute hand and

the closing of the hour hand socket when necessary.

Set the hand in cement on a brass plate that has a hole passing through

at the point corresponding to the socket. The hole must then be

enlarged with a semi-cylindrical drill to a diameter such that it will

only be necessary to gently pass the broach through afterwards. The

drill must not be worked too rapidly, and the plate may require to be

immersed occasionally in water, so as to avoid heating the cement and

thus loosening the hand.

When the hole in a watch-hand is too large, it may generally be

sufficiently reduced by means of the staking tool.

=625.= =To Redden Watch-Hands.= Make into a paste (while holding over a

lamp) a mixture of two parts carmine, two parts chloride of silver, and

one part Japan varnish. Having spread some of this over the hands, lay

them face upwards on a sheet of copper, applying heat until the desired

tint is produced.

GLASSES.

=626.= =To Drill Glass.= A hole can be rapidly made in a piece of glass

by using a steel spindle ground at the extremity to a point with three

or four faces, and hardened in mercury. This spindle may be chucked in

the lathe, or rotated between the finger and thumb, the point being

moistened from time to time with turpentine or the mixture mentioned

in article =594=. The glass operated upon should be held against the

blade with the thumb or a pad immediately behind it, and should receive

a gentle rocking motion so as to prevent the drill from choking in the

hole formed; and as soon as the point appears on the other side, the

drilling should be re-commenced from that side. It is a good precaution

to mark the point at which the hole is required with a diamond or the

steel point before commencing, and the pressure applied while drilling

must be but slight.

=627.= =To Cut Glass.= It is possible to cut a sheet of glass roughly

to any required shape with an ordinary pair of scissors, if the

operation is performed under water. Of course a smooth edge cannot be

obtained by such means, but it will often be found sufficient.

A more exact method is to use a piece of ignited charcoal or the

pastile mentioned below, first making a scratch as a starting-point and

holding the heated substance a little in advance of the crack: this

will follow the direction in which the hot body is moved. The method is

available for dividing glass tubes or other objects in irregular shape.

What is known as the “Berzelius pastile” for cutting glass is formed

of the following mixture: Gum arabic, 6 parts; gum tragacanth, 2³⁄₁₀

parts; benzoin, 2³⁄₁₀ parts; lampblack, 18 parts; and the requisite

quantity of water. Mix the gum tragacanth with water and leave it to

swell up for some hours; dissolve the gum arabic in a sufficiency of

water, and powder the benzoin finely. Mix the three, forming a paste of

such a consistency as to be moulded, the lampblack and a little water

being also added. The pastiles are then formed by rolling between two

plates.

The diameter of a watch-glass can be reduced by centering it in a

lathe, chucking it between two pieces of cork or a pair of cork arbors,

and applying a moistened piece of glass to the edge, or an emery

stick. When the desired diameter is attained, polish the edge with

pumice-stone followed by putty powder applied on a wet cork.

BROACHING.

=628.= =To Broach a Hole Vertically.= A hole in a plate, as for

example, that in a barrel, is seldom maintained at right angles to

the surface by young watchmakers when they have occasion to employ a

broach. By adopting the following very simple method, success may be

assured:

Take along cork of a diameter rather less than that of the barrel or

other object operated upon, and make a hole in the length of the cork

through which the broach can be passed. When the cork has been turned

quite true on its end and edge, the broach is pushed through and used

to enlarge the hole; by pressing against the back of the cork it is

kept always against the barrel, and the vertically of the broach is

thus maintained.

=629.= =To Broach and Maintain the Hole Round.= Many workmen either use

bad broaches or work them in a jerky manner so as to make striæ within

the hole. To avoid such distortion when uncertain of the hand, draw

the broach somewhat out of the hole and insert in the space thus left

one or two pieces of hard wood, forming a kind of jacket, so that at

least two cutting edges of the broach may be prevented from acting; the

broach forcing its way into the pieces of wood, will carry them round

with it. A few trials will enable a workman to employ this method.

[Illustration: _Fig. 272._]

When operating on holes that are rather large it is a good practice to

use broaches that are semi-cylindrical or triangular, their sections

being as shown at C, A, or D, Fig. 272. C and D are excellent for

smoothing a hole, but remove very little metal; A does more work

in a given time and, if well handled, will maintain the hole very

round. When operating on a large hole, these broaches can be rotated

in a brace; but, in the case of small or medium size holes, it is

much better to mount them in a drilling headstock like those used by

case-makers for the joint holes, and the tools can be revolved by the

aid of a hand or foot-wheel. Only one precaution need be noted, namely,

the necessity of avoiding the application of too much pressure, so that

the broach jams in the hole.

SOLID AND HOLLOW SQUARES.

=630.= =To File an Arbor or Drift Square by Hand.= The most expeditious

mode of making a square, as, for example, that of a barrel-arbor, is

by using the tool described in article =513=, or one of analogous

construction; but in their absence the square must be made by hand.

Soften the jaws of a hand-vise and make four flat faces on them,

forming an exact square, either by filing or by attaching pieces by

rivets. Having clamped the steel on which a square is to be formed

in the vise, hold this in one hand and rest it in a recess in a wood

block; with the other hand hold the file, determining its position by

laying it on the upper face of the square before applying it to the

arbor. After giving one or two strokes, test the truth of the face

formed by again laying the file on the upper face of the vise. Then

turn the vise through a quarter of a circle and proceed in the same

manner; and so on for the other two faces. Before finishing the square

and while there still remains a slight excess of metal on each face,

ascertain, by examining the end and measuring the lengths of the faces,

whether the square is accurately formed.

[Illustration: _Fig. 273._]

Put in the lathe and draw with flat file in the direction of the axis

along each face. If the square is to be polished after hardening,

proceed in the same manner, using an iron polisher in place of the

file, to which longitudinal, transverse, and circular movements may be

given.

After hardening, the square may be tempered to some shade between

pale yellow and a deep blue, according to the purpose for which it is

intended.

=631.= _Another Method._ Let it be required to fit a square to the

hole in a keyless winding pinion, the diagonal of which is _a′ b′_,

Fig. 273. Turn the end _c d_ of the rod down until it exactly enters

the square hole. Measure with a tapered strip of brass whose edges are

filed sharp the diagonal _a′ b′_; this will give the diameter _a b_

of the larger portion of the rod, as will be gathered from the figure

_a′ d b′ c_.

Turn down the portions of the rod on which the square is to be made and

file four faces, each time arresting the action of the file when it is

on a level with the smaller cylindrical portion, maintaining the angles

equal by observing that the four portions of the circumference retain

their equality while gradually diminishing. By a little care and using

the square-headed hand-vise described above, success may be assured.

=632.= =To Drift a Square Hole in Steel of Moderate Thickness.= The

steel in which it is required to make a square hole must be very soft

and thoroughly annealed, otherwise it is sure to crack under the action

of the drift or when hammered.

To make the hole in the center of a stop-finger, for example, the hole

must first be drilled of a diameter less than the side of the final

square: the drift is then inserted, liberally supplied with oil. On

removing the drift, the square is enlarged by means of a fine square

file acting on each of its corners; then with slightly larger drifts

the hole is gradually increased to the required size. They are driven

with a rather heavy hammer, care being taken to maintain them vertical

and with each change of drift a file should be passed over the surface

to remove the metal that collects at the corners.

=633.= =To Drift a Stem Winding Pinion.= For this purpose the methods

explained above are insufficient, on account of the great thickness of

metal, which we repeat, must always be very soft.

Nevertheless, by using drifts that are very slightly conical, short,

and roughed like a file in an inclined direction, and by using a number

that succeed one another of gradually increasing diameter, steel of

considerable thickness can be treated in the above manner; but it is

far less expeditious than the method explained below.

The piece of steel with a hole drilled through it should be from a

third to half as large again in diameter as it is finally required to

be. After turning the surface true and the two ends flat, the tube is

driven on to a long drift of suitable temper, well oiled and of nearly

the diameter of the hole to be made. Clamping this drift in a hand-vise

or sliding tongs, rest the steel tube on an anvil with its axis and

one face of the drift parallel to the surface, and forge the tube with

a medium size hammer. Turn the drift through a quarter of a circle,

again forge the tube, and so on. Care should be taken that the drift is

forced further into the tube from time to time, oil being at the same

time applied.

A punching machine is also very serviceable for the purpose of

drifting. Sometimes the attempt is made to forge the metal red-hot, but

this is much more difficult on account of the rapidity that is needed

in threading the hot steel, hammering and removing it. Moreover, the

steel has to be heated several times and is apt to be burnt.

If the method above explained, in which the metal is kept cold, is

carefully performed, it succeeds very well, but it must be observed

that steel is often met with that is irregular in composition and

cracks.

TO STRAIGHTEN A ROD, PLATE OR WHEEL.

=634.= =A Steel Rod.= When the rod is short use a large pair of sliding

tongs or a hand-vise, the jaws of which have been softened in order

to make a groove in each parallel to their edge. Placing the rod in

the cylindrical recess thus formed between the jaws, fix one side of

the hand-vise in a bench vise, holding a spirit lamp near the jaws

and, as the steel changes its color, tighten the slide or screw of the

former. When the metal assumes a blue color and the jaws are as tight

as possible, remove the lamp, allowing the whole to cool slowly or by

applying water.

The jaws should be formed so as to bend the rod rather more than

is ultimately required, because steel on being released is apt to

partially recover its initial curvature.

When the rod is long grip its two ends in the frame of a fret-saw,

which should be somewhat strong. Then hold a lamp under the rod, at

the same time stretching the rod more and more, and allow the steel

to remain stretched until quite cold. If it has been sufficiently

stretched the metal will be rendered perfectly straight.

=635.= =A Plate, Escape-Wheel or Stem Wind Wheel.= In the middle of a

square plate that is moderately thick, fit a strong screw with a large

and long head; this screw must pass freely through a disc that is

perfectly flat and fits easily into the upper side of the escape-wheel.

Now fix the plate between the jaws of a bench-vise, and, placing the

wheel between this plate and the disc with a moderate pressure applied

by the screw, hold a lamp to the under side, gradually tightening the

screw as the steel changes color so as to obtain a maximum pressure

when a blue temper is reached. Leave the whole to cool in position.

=636.= =A Verge, Small Arbor or Pinion Staff.= When steel is

sufficiently tempered, it may be laid flat on a smooth piece of copper

held in the vise and flattened by hammering as in the case of an

ordinary rod; but if it is hard the blade of the hammer must be used.

Every watchmaker knows, for example, that a verge is straightened by

striking with the blade against its concave side, while the convex side

rests flat on a smooth anvil. By the action of the hammer the side that

is struck becomes a little longer, thus straightening the staff, It is

not usually necessary to remove the marks left by the hammer, but if

this has to be done the operation should be continued beyond what is

necessary to straighten the metal, then temper it to a blue color and

allow it to cool.

A small smooth taper arbor or pinion staff, can be straightened by

resting it on a wood block, and rubbing the concave side lengthwise

with a worn file of medium cut, applying considerable pressure, the

arbor being firmly supported below to avoid breakage. The result is

the same as with the blows of a hammer, but the marks left are barely

visible.

FOOTNOTES:

[7] It may be well to point out that the above details relate to the

case in which the stem-wind work is on the top plate. When it is under

the dial, of course the corrections here given for a deep and shallow

depth will be reversed.

[8] This contains about 1 part of pure acid and 2 parts of water.

[9] Taken from M. H. Robert’s _Etudes sur diverses questions

d’horlogerie_.

[10] If a greater or less quantity of the solution is required,

all these quantities must, of course, be increased or diminished

proportionately.

CLOCK HAIRSPRINGS.

Repairers’ Assortment. Best Quality, Colletted, carefully arranged,

box containing 50, fifteen kinds, by mail, $1.50

Same Assortment, box containing 100, 2.50

One Dozen for any make of clocks, .50

One-Half Dozen for any make of clocks, .30

Single Springs, .10

If your jobber doesn’t keep them send and get them direct, postpaid.

F. N. MANROSS,

Manufacturer of every description of Clock and Gauge Hairsprings.

FORESTVILLE, CONN.

The American Jeweler

CHICAGO, ILL.

A Monthly Journal for Watchmakers and Jewelers.

As an advertising medium it is unsurpassed. Advertising Rates mailed on

application. Has more =paid subscribers= than any other journal in the

trade.

If in search of a situation or if you want a watchmaker, place your

want ad. in The American Jeweler.

$1.00 per Year. Send for Sample Copy.

GEO. K. HAZLITT & CO.

...PUBLISHERS...

91 Plymouth Place, CHICAGO, ILL.

Eureka Mainspring Winder,

FOR WATCHMAKERS’ USE.

[Illustration: Patented May 25, 1886.]

This instrument is always ready for use, and will instantly wind any

watch spring into coils to fit any American or Swiss Barrel. It is

simple and durable.

Price, Nickel Plated, $1.25.

The trade will find it to their advantage to send us their orders,

as we have the most experienced men, and all orders are filled with

the best quality goods, the same day as order is received, and at the

lowest market prices.

GREEN BROS.

_Importers and Jobbers of Watchmakers, Jewelers and Engravers

Fine Grade Tools, Materials and General Supplies._

11 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK.

THE HARTUNG COMPANY,

211 STATE ST., CHICAGO.

Watchmakers and Jewelers

__FOR THE TRADE EXCLUSIVELY__.

Fine Watch Repairing of all kinds our Specialty.

Demagnetizing. Changing key wind watches to stem wind. Watch case and

jewelry repairing.

All work promptly and carefully executed. Our reputation is of a

good and long standing. We will be pleased to send price list and

information on demand.

CRUCIBLE FURNACE For Manufacturing

Jewelers....

=No. 15. Crucible Furnace.= This will take crucibles up to 4×3½ inches,

holding about six pounds when full, and with ½ inch gas pipe, and a

pressure of gas supplying about 50 feet per hour, will melt a crucible

of gold, silver or brass in about 30 minutes, and the same quantity of

cast iron in about 60 minutes from the time the gas is first lighted.

It is made in a very substantial manner, and is recommended as a

first-rate furnace for manufacturing jewelers, reducing photo waste,

etc. The lid can be lifted away by a handle provided for the purpose.

Prices on Application.

MANUFACTURED ONLY BY

BUFFALO DENTAL MFG. CO

587-589 Main Street,

BUFFALO, N. Y.

[Illustration: No. 15. Patented May 18, 1880.]

Watchmaking

If you want to become a thorough practical watchmaker, you can do so

at less expense and in less time at this school than any other place.

Students received at any time. Send for catalogue and samples of

engraving. Address:

Hutchinson’s Practical School for Watchmakers,

J. L. HUTCHINSON, La Porte, Ind.

SUPERINTENDENT.

Anything and Everything in the shape of

Dials Made to Order from our own

Design or from Yours.

[Illustration]

Dials with Portraits, Monograms, Landscapes, Yachting, Hunting,

Fishing, Polo, Base Ball, Tennis, Cricket, or in fact any design.

SOCIETY DESIGNS A SPECIALTY.

Complete Stock of Plain and Fancy Dials always on hand.

L H. KELLER & CO.

Watchmakers and Jewelers

Tools and Materials

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

64 NASSAU STREET NEW YORK.

The Chicago Watchmakers’ Institute

A Modern Trade

School.

Best in America.

[Illustration]

Scientific and

Practical

In all its Methods.

__TEACHES__

Watchmaking and Repairing,

Jewelry Work and Engraving,

and gives a Thorough Course in Optics.

Call and see our school and its work, or send for catalogue.

GEO. D. PARSONS, PRINCIPAL.

913 D, Masonic Temple, CHICAGO, ILL.

WHEN YOU __NEED THE BEST__

Pivot Polishers,

Gear Cutters,

Idler Pulleys,

Hairspring Stud Index,

Crown Chucks,

Turning Tools,

Roller Removers,

Tempering Compound,

Staking Tools,

Pivot Drills,

Pump Drills,

[Illustration]

Or any of the tools you need daily; and when you want the best and most

practical tools, those that have been designed by practical workmen and

proved by them; when you want the latest, best and cheapest tools; send

for circulars and prices to

A. W. JOHANSON,

Manufacturer of Watchmakers’ and Jewelers’ Tools,

_326 Wells Street_ _CHICAGO, ILL._

PRACTICAL BOOKS

....FOR....

Watchmakers AND Jewelers.

FOR SALE BY

GEO. K. HAZLITT & C^o.,

91 PLYMOUTH PLACE, CHICAGO.

=Staff Making and Pivoting.= Practical directions for making new staffs

from raw material. By Eugene E. Hall. Chapter I. The raw material; the

gravers; the roughing out; the hardening and tempering. Chapter II.

Kinds of pivots; their shape; capillarity; the requirements of a good

pivot. Chapter III. The proper measurements and how obtained. Chapter

IV. The gauging of holes; the side shake; the position of the graver.

Chapter V. The grinding and polishing; the reversal of the work; the

wax chuck. Chapter VI. Another wax chuck; the centering of the work.

Chapter VII. The finishing of the staff; pivoting; making pivot drills:

hardening drills; the drilling and fitting of new pivots. Illustrated

with 24 engravings. 48 pages.

Paper covers $ 25

=Watch Repairing.= By N. B. Sherwood. Contents: The Bench and its

Accessories; The Vise and Oilstone; Lathe Appliances; The Jacot Lathe;

Depthing Tool; Expanding the Web of a Wheel; The Spreading Tool and

its Use; The Rounding-Up Tool; Stud Remover; Opening the Regulator;

Roller Remover; Replacing Broken Teeth; Graining Polishing Blocks;

Polishing Steel Work; Polishing Pivots; Superiority of Conical Pivots;

The Cutting Engine; To Cut ’Scape Wheels; Replacing Broken Arbors:

Hardening and Tempering. Illustrated.

Price 35

=The Watchmakers’ and Jewelers’ Practical Hand Book.= A guide to the

student and a workshop companion for the practical watchmaker. Hundreds

of valuable suggestions from private formulas and the best authorities,

together with hints on making certain repairs. An invaluable book for

the workman. The most valuable book for the money ever offered to

the trade. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Edited and compiled

by Henry G. Abbott. Illustrated with 154 zinc etchings. 118 Pages.

Flexible muslin, 50 cents. Paper covers

35

=Prize Essay on the Detached Lever Escapement= for watches and

timepieces. A practical and theoretical treatise, by Moritz Grossman,

to which the first prize was awarded by adjudicators appointed by

the British Horological Institute, London. 118 pages, bound in paper

covers, with 20 full page plates, bound in a separate volume. Two

volumes, price,

1 50

=Acme Record of Watches Bought and Sold.= A complete record for dealers

in watches, by which they can at all times tell what watches have

been sold, by whom bought, price paid, profit made, etc., and in case

of the watch being imperfect, the dealer can readily ascertain from

whom he purchased it, or if stolen he has a full description of them

which should materially aid in their recovery. Books of 3,000 Entries,

substantially bound

$1 00

=The Acme Record of Watch Repairs.= A simple and economical method of

recording watch repairs. Book of 1,000 entries, substantially bound

1 00

=The Acme Record of Jewelry Repairs.= A simple and economical method

of recording jewelry and miscellaneous repairs. Book of 1,000 entries,

substantially bound

1 00

=The Acme Watch Guarantee Book.= If you desire to increase your watch

repair business, purchase an Acme Guarantee Book, and advertise the

fact that you “give a written guarantee with all work turned out.”

These books are printed with a stub so that you may keep a record of

all guarantees made, with date, name of owner, description of movement

and case, repairs, etc. They are bound in heavy, substantial covers

printed on good paper and perforated all around so they can be easily

torn out.

Books of 200 Guarantees 1 00

Books of 300 Guarantees 1 50

Books of 500 Guarantees 2 52

[Illustration]

=Abbott’s Americas Watchmaker and Jeweler.= By Henry G. Abbott. An

Encyclopedia for the Horologist, Jeweler, Gold and Silversmith.

Containing Hundreds of Private Receipts and Formulas, Compiled from the

Most Reliable Sources. Complete Directions for Using all the Latest

Tools, Attachments and Devices for Watchmakers and Jewelers.

Among other things contained in this volume may be mentioned a thorough

explanation of adjustments, both to positions and isochronism;

directions for making all the alloys used by a watchmaker, jeweler

and metalworker; a review of all the escapements, their action,

construction and proportion, together with diagrams of each escapement;

an exhaustive treatise on balances, their expansion and contraction,

auxiliaries, sizes and weights and direction for poising; the balance

staff, and full and complete directions for making and replacing

new staffs, together with the use of the graver in turning and

the manipulation of measuring instruments; directions for making

twenty different cements of great value to the watchmaker and

jeweler, including lathe wax; directions for cleansing, pickling and

polishing all kinds of metals: magnetism and the use of the various

demagnetizers; electroplating, bronzing and staining all metals; gauges

of all kinds, and directions for using; soldering and directions

for making all kinds of hard and soft solder and fluxes; steel, its

treatment in annealing, hardening, tempering, etc.; watch cleaning,

repairing, etc.: a treatise on wheels and pinions: directions for

using all modern tools and appliances; and hundreds of miscellaneous

receipts, formulas and hints on all kinds of work, of great value to

every workman. This edition contains forty-four pages more than former

editions, and each page contains one-third more matter than the pages

of former editions. An alphabetical list of over five hundred European

watchmakers who manufactured watches prior to 1800, with years in

which they carried on business, from which the watchmaker can easily

establish the age of any movement that a customer may desire to know

about; an alphabetical list of all books on horology published in the

English or French language prior to 1850; portraits and sketches of all

the celebrated watchmakers of the world from 1600 to 1894. 354 pages.

Illustrated with 288 engravings. Paper covers, $1 25. Fine muslin

$1 50

[Illustration]

=A Simple and Mechanically Perfect Watch.= By Moritz Grossmann. A

Prize Essay on the Construction of a Simple yet Perfect Watch. Written

in a masterly manner by one of the greatest of Horological Authors.

Illustrated with many engravings. From the standpoint of the practical

man at the bench this is one of the most exhaustive essays ever written

on the subject and no practical workman can fail to appreciate it. 96

pages 38 diagrams. Paper, 75c. Fine muslin

1 00

=The Watchmakers’ Library.= This book consists of a collection of the

best articles from the various trade journals of this country and

Europe, among the authors being Moritz Grossmann, M. Kessels, Chas.

Spiro, Chas. Reiss, Herman Horrman, P. M. Youlen, M. Sandoz, Herman

Grosch, James U. Poole, E. Sordet and Vincent Lauer. The papers are all

of a practical nature and of great value to the practical watchmaker,

the whole forming a volume of 290 pages and index. In Paper Covers

1 00

=Prize Essay on the Balance Spring and its Technical Adjustments=

(Baroness Burdett Coutt’s Prize). By M. Immisch. A description of

the invention of the balance spring, its effect upon the art of

watchmaking; the effects of inertia of the balance; resistance of

the air; balance adjustment by means of turning screws and washers;

proportions of spring and balance; nature of spirals; lengths of

balance vibrations and their effect upon the timing; pinning in equal

and unequal coils; the Breguet spring; making its curves, pinning;

regulating isochronal springs, etc. Fully illustrated with numerous

engravings and diagrams. Cloth. Price

1 00

=Repairing Repeating Watches.= By C. T. Etchells. A practical treatise

on the subject and the only one in print. Fully illustrated. The most

vexatious repairs that come to the watchmaker are those on repeating

watches—and yet they are the most profitable if you know just how to

make them. Not every watchmaker can make them, and that is just why

they are profitable. Do you know how? If not, why not? You are never

too old to learn. Paper covers

35

=The Escapements.= Their Action, Construction and Proportion. All watch

and clock escapements thoroughly illustrated and described Illustrated

with twenty diagrams. Paper Covers Price

$ 50

Same in cloth binding 75

=Prize Essay on Watch Cleaning and Repairing.= By F. C. Ries. This work

took the first prize, (offered by The American Jeweler) in competition

with thirty-six other writers. Contents: Examination of the Movement;

Taking Down; Fitting the Dial; Fitting Center Pivot and Bridge;

Bushing; Endshake; Worn Center Pinions; Truing the Barrel; Repairing

the Ratchet; Putting on Square on a Fusee; Examination of Mainspring;

Stemwind Mechanism; Examination of Train; Imitation Gilding; Pivots;

Making Balance Staff; The Hairspring; Jeweling; Cleaning in General.

Price

25

=Watch and Chronometer Jeweling.= By N. B. Sherwood. A complete

treatise on this subject and the only one in print. Contents:

Peculiarities of Gems used in Making Jewels; Requisite Tools and How

to Use Them; Shaping and Polishing the Jewel; Opening the Jewel;

Setting the Jewel; The Endshake Tool; General Hints to the Repairer.

Illustrated. Price

35

[Illustration]

=General Letter Engraving.= By G. F. Whelpley, the acknowledged

authority on engraving. His latest and best work. Contents: General

Hints to Beginners; Lines and Curves; Originality; Practice Material;

Position of Graver; Treatment of Gravers; Correct Spacing; Coffin

Plate Engraving; Necessary Tools; Laying out the Work Preparation of

Plate; Use of Gravers; Methods of Cutting; Slope and Height of Letters;

Inclination of Graver; Transfering; Letters Appropriate for Long and

Short Names; Harmony in Laying Out; Touching Up; Difficult Materials

and their Treatment; Tools and Materials; Sharpening Gravers; Choice

of Tools; Engraving in Rings; Gravers for Same: Engraving Blocks and

Stands: Ciphers, their Formation and Ornamentation; Inscriptions; Best

Manner of Cutting; Ciphers as Compared with Monograms; Monograms and

their Treatment; Figure Monograms or Cipheroids; Intertwining, Complex

Monograms; General Treatment. Copiously Illustrated. 112 pp. Paper

$1.00. Cloth

1 25

=The Watchmakers’ and Jewelers’ Practical Receipt Book.= A workshop

companion, comprising full and practical formula and directions for

solders and soldering, cleaning, pickling, polishing, bronzing,

coloring, staining, cementing, etching, lacquering, varnishing, general

directions for finishing all metals, hundreds of miscellaneous receipts

and processes of great value to all practical watchmakers and jewelers.

This is the only book on the market to-day that gives full and complete

directions for etching names, portraits, etc., in the bowls of souvenir

spoons and silver articles in general. This so-called trade secret

is sold by certain persons at $5.00. Dozens of other “trade secrets”

that are advertised for sale in trade papers at from $1.00 to $5.00

can be found in this book. Worth its weight in gold to any practical

watchmaker and jeweler. 132 pages, illustrated. Paper covers, $1.00.

Fine English muslin binding

1 25

=Poising the Balance.= An Essay of unusual merit. By J. L. Finn 25

=Hairspringing.= A complete treatise on the art of hairspringing. By A.

Z. Price

25

=Adjustments to Positions, Isochronism and Compensation.= The only work

on the subject in print. 50 pp. Illustrated. Price

25

=Repairing Watch-Cases.= A practical treatise on the subject. By W.

Schwanatus. Contents: Repairing the Pendant; Lining Pendant Holes; Work

at the Joints; Soldering the Bezel; The Closing of the Case; Taking Out

the Dents. 40 pp. Price.

25

=Jewelers’ Practical Receipt Book.= Contains a mass of most valuable

receipts, formulas and information, gathered from the best and most

reliable sources. Fifth edition, revised and enlarged. 48 pp. Price

15

=Prize Essay on the Balance Staff and Cylinder.= By P. W. Eigner. This

essay took the first prize offered by the American Horological Society.

Gives methods for turning, grinding and polishing, from staff to

pivots. Illustrated with numerous engravings. Paper covers

25

=Compensating Pendulums and How to Make Them.= A practical treatise

on the construction of mechanically perfect Pendulums, for the use of

watchmakers. By J. L. Finn and S. Riefler. Illustrated. Paper covers,

Price

35

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between paragraphs.

In versions of this eBook that support hyperlinks, the references

to illustrations lead to the corresponding illustrations. Links to

articles have been provided where they are referenced in other sections.

The index was not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page

references.

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been corrected

after careful comparison with other occurrences within the text and

consultation of external sources.

Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added, when a

predominant preference was found in the original book.

Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,

and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.

Pg 15: removed redundant “to” in “Teeth, to true”.

Pg 28: “horisontal” replaced with “horizontal”.

Pg 29: “emphacise” replaced with “emphasize”.

Pg 29: “an” replaced with “in” ind “one portion removed in order”.

Pg 36: “faciliy” replaced with “facility”.

Pg 42: Caption “Fid. 20” replaced with “Fig. 20”.

Pg 58: “acqua” replaced with “aqua”.

Pg 59: “deterorated” replaced with “deteriorated”.

Pg 78: Duplicate section “88” appeared between sections 85 and 86.

This has been renumbered “85a”.

Pg 102: “phosporus” replaced with “phosphorus”.

Pg 102: Reference to paragraph “666” replaced with “591”.

Pg 116: “cleasing” replaced with “cleansing”.

Pg 117: “cautions” replaced with “cautious”.

Pg 118: “choride” replaced with “chloride”.

Pg 124: “imposible” replaced with “impossible”.

Pg 131: “camporated” replaced with “camphorated”.

Pg 138: Added the word “be” to “The other stones may be

treated in similar manner”.

Pg 139: “dimished” replaced with “diminished”.

Pg 143: “necessary” replaced with “unnecessary”.

Pg 145: “keylesss” replaced with “keyless”.

Pg 147: “expriments” replaced with “experiments”.

Pg 149: “degress” replaced with “degrees”.

Pg 150: “throughly” replaced with “thoroughly”.

Pg 152: Replaced “the” with “to” in “working up towards to

the extremity”.

Pg 153: “sucessful” replaced with “successful”.

Pg 155: “escapments” replaced with “escapements”.

Pg 155: Replaced “too” with “to” in “sealing-wax causes objects

to adhere”.

Pg 156: “bebstween” replaced with “between”.

Pg 156: “especiably” replaced with “especially”.

Pg 160: “magnanese” replaced with “manganese”.

Pg 160: “iatter” replaced with “latter”.

Pg 167: Removed extra “as” in “it is known as a tourmaline”.

Pg 170: “rottten” replaced with “rotten”.

Pg 176: “dazzing” replaced with “dazzling”.

Pg 177: Original text unclear, inferred “taking” in “necessity of

taking care”.

Pg 180: “aquired” replaced with “acquired”.

Pg 189: “ltttle” replaced with “little”.

Pg 197: “calliper” replaced with “caliper”.

Pg 199: “operatar” replaced with “operator”.

Pg 204: Removed extra “be” in “10 feet high may be used as a fixture”.

Pg 206: Replaced “varries” with “varies”.

Pg 208: Removed duplicate “is” in “H is a pipe”.

Pg 209: “ot” replaced with “not”.

Pg 218: Replaced “to” with “too” in “Having too much end-shake”.

Pg 234: “obstuse” replaced with “obtuse”.

Pg 237: Removed duplicate “the” in “raising the edge of a jewel”.

Pg 247: “cuting” replaced with “cutting”.

Pg 251: Replaced “ase” with “are” in “polishers are used”.

Pg 281: Replaced “Illinos” with “Illinois”.

Pg 281: Replaced “Bregeut” with “Breguet”.

Pg 334: Replaced “idex” with “index”.

Pg 341: Replaced “portio” with “portion”.

Pg 345: Replaced “templets” with “templates”.

Pg 348: Replaced “cuttter” with “cutter”.

Pg 357: Removed duplicate “is” in “It is well to have some

change wheels”.

Pg 358: Replaced “It” with “Its” in “Its edge must be saddle-shaped”.

Pg 367: Replaced “late” with “plate”.

Pg 347: Replaced “appplicable” with “applicable”.

Pg 389: Replaced “make” with “made” in “remarks made in speaking”.

Pg 404: Replaced “mannner” with “manner”.

Pg 410: Corrected caption “Fig. 24” to “Fig. 231”.

Pg 418: Replaced end of line “dur-” with “during”.

Pg 422: Corrected caption from “Fig. 338” to “Fig. 238”.

Pg 432: Replaced “characacteristic” with “characteristic”.

Pg 433: Original text unclear, inferred “not to” in

“advisable not to touch the fusee”.

Pg 454: Correction caption from “Fig. 251” to “Fig. 255”.

Pg 463: Removed duplicate “the” from “their heads on the dial side”.

Pg 463: Replaced “escapment” with “escapement”.

Pg 470: “acuracy” replaced with “accuracy”.

Pg 471: “longtitudinal” replaced with “longitudinal”.

Pg 506: “d’horologerie” replaced with “d’horlogerie”.

Pg 511: Added “know” in “Do you know how?”

Pg 512: Replaced “Fuzee” with “Fusee”.