REPAIRING AND EXAMINING WATCHES.
METHOD.
=449.= Expedition and certainty in watchmaking and repairing are
primarily secured by proceeding on a definite system, both in details
of construction or repairing.
The best watchmakers, and practical men generally, take their work in a
certain order, from which any departure is exceptional. By this means
they avoid the necessity of doing work twice over and of frequently
taking up the same piece; a circumstance that often occurs with young
watchmakers, owing to forgetfulness or to a want of sequence in their
ideas.
They should from the first exercise themselves in working methodically
on a definite system.
It must, however, be understood that no method can be inflexible, nor
can it be equally advantageous for different individuals, because
men differ in regard to manual dexterity, goodness of eyesight and
of memory, power of associating their ideas, etc. A system that is
suitable to a person of unexcitable temperament will have to be
modified by one is oppositely disposed. Everyone will be able to decide
for himself as to the best system to adopt and the order in which to
take his daily work.
These preliminary observations appear necessary because the method
explained below of examining a Geneva watch has been regarded by some
as too long and minute. We would urge any young watchmaker that hears
such ideas advanced to assure himself that it is a mistake, because the
system here explained is only put forward subject to the modifications
that experience suggests; and it is to be observed that many of the
operations given can be performed more rapidly than they are described.
When a watchmaker experiences a great loss of time, does it not usually
arise from the fact that he is obliged to take a watch to pieces, or
nearly so, after its repairing and examination were thought to have
been completed; or when a watch that has been repaired is brought back
to be examined before the ordinary period of cleaning has elapsed?
Let him add together the numerous hours spent in this kind of thankless
work, let him sum up the worries experienced, and the discredit, etc.,
to which he has been subjected, and he will see that systematic work
would have saved him both loss of money and loss of credit.
EXTERNAL EXAMINATION OF THE WATCH.
=450.= In the following paragraphs, when the manner in which a given
fault manifests itself is not indicated at once, it should be sought
in the index of this volume, either under the name of the operation or
under that of the object to which it relates. The reader will see for
himself which passages refer exclusively to the English or American and
which to the Geneva watch.
=451.= =Case, Glass, Dial, Dome.= Glance at the case in order to
ascertain that it has not received a blow or been subjected to
pressure; that the joints and fly springs work well; and that the
hands in rotating touch neither the glass nor dial. By laying the
nail on the surface of the glass, it will be easy to see whether there
is sufficient freedom between the socket of the hand and the glass.
In case of doubt, place a small piece of paper on the hand, close
the bezel and tap the glass with the finger while the watch is in an
inclined position. If free, the paper will be displaced.
The set-hands square should be rounded at the end and a trifle below
the level of any accidental bending of the back of the watch, and the
dome must not press on the balance-cock wing or the central dust cap
(if present). The above remark also applies to the winding square of a
fusee watch.
There must also be sufficient freedom between the going-barrel teeth
and the banking-pin of the balance on the one hand, and the internal
rim of the case, the fly-springs, and the joints on the other.
Otherwise there is danger of contacts when the case is closed which
occasion irregularity and stoppage often difficult to detect.
=452.= The dome must be at a sufficient distance from all parts of the
movement, more especially the balance-cock. If there is any occasion
for doubt on this point put a thin layer of rouge on the parts that
are most prominent. Close the case and holding it in one hand to the
ear, apply a pressure at all parts of the back with a finger of the
other hand, listening attentively in order to ascertain whether the
vibrations are interfered with. If the interval is insufficient, a
trace of rouge will be found on the inside of the dome. In such a case,
if the dome cannot be raised nor hollowed slightly in the lathe (when
formed of metal), lower as far as possible the index work and the
balance-cock wing and fix in the plate, close to the balance, one or
two screws with mushroom heads that will serve to raise the dome.
Ascertain that the hands stand sufficiently far apart; that the hour
hand does not rub against the hole in the dial; and that the minute
hand does not come nearer to the dial in one place than in another, a
fault which may arise either from the dial not being flat or from the
center-wheel being badly planted.
Remove the movement from its case, after making sure that it is held
steadily by the locking screws; take off the hands, and see that the
hour wheel has the right amount of play; this freedom may be diminished
if required by laying on the wheel small discs of tinsel cut out with a
punch. If the dial presses against any part of the movement, or is not
flat or comes so near to any of the pivot-holes as to draw off the oil,
it must be ground away until a sufficient amount of freedom is obtained.
TO EXAMINE A GENEVA MOVEMENT.
=453.= Although the following remarks refer in the main to foreign
watches with a Lepine movement, very many are also applicable to the
English and American watches; further observations specially bearing on
them will be found in articles =477-80=.
=454.= =The Motion Work and Hands.= Rotate the wheels connecting the
hour and minute-hands by the aid of a key and a glance will suffice
to show whether the several depths, which should be light, are
satisfactory. The wheels should not rub against one another, the plate,
barrel, or stopwork. The barrel should have been previously examined to
ascertain that it is not inclined to one side, as if it were, an error
would probably be made in estimating the degree of freedom.
The set-hands arbor (the square of which should be a trifle smaller
than that of the barrel-arbor) must turn rather stiffly in the center
pinion, and the cannon pinion must be held on the arbor sufficiently
tight to avoid all chance of its rising and so becoming loose; for
this would alter the play of the hands and motion work. If any fault
is found in the adjustment correct it at once, so as to avoid doing so
after the movement has been cleaned.
If it has not been already done, slightly round the lower end of cannon
pinion and the steel shield, care being taken to avoid forming a burr
on the pinion leaves. These two pieces ought to rest on the ends of the
center pinion pivots, and at the same time be some distance removed
from the plate and bar respectively.
=455.= =Freedom and Endshake.= Observe that there is sufficient
clearance between the plate and barrel; the barrel and center-wheel;
the several wheels in succession both between themselves, their cocks,
and sinks; between the balance on the one hand and its cock, the
center-wheel, fourth wheel cock, the balance-spring coils and stud on
the other. The fourth wheel is frequently found to pass too near to the
jewel forming the lower pivot-hole of the escape-wheel.
The end-shake of the wheels may be tested by taking hold of an arm of
each with tweezers and lifting it. This may also be done in the case of
the escape-wheel, but, when the cock is slight, it will be sufficient
to press gently upon it with a pegwood stick, then releasing it, and
observing the apparent increase in the length of pivot. At the same
time ascertain that the width and height of the passage in the cock
is enough to allow the teeth, when carrying oil, to pass with the
requisite freedom.
Holding the watch on a level with the eyes, lightly raise the balance
with a pegwood point several times, each time allowing it to fall.
The variation observed in the space between the collet and cock will
indicate the end-shake of the balance-staff.
=456.= =Action of the Escapement.= The side play of the balance pivots
in their holes can be easily estimated by touch, or this may be done
by the eye, attentively watching the upper pivot through the end-stone
with a powerful glass, while the watch lies flat and the lower pivot
in the same manner with the watch inverted. If the end-stones are not
clear enough, although such a case is rare, remove first one end-stone
and examine the pivot; then replace it and remove the other.
It should be possible to rotate the balance until the banking pin comes
against its stop, without causing the escape wheel to recoil at all, or
allowing a tooth to catch outside the cylinder behind the small lip.
The banking-pin sometimes passes too near to the fourth wheel staff.
The =U=-arms should rest nearly in the middle of the banking slot of
the cylinder: they should be as far from the upper as from the under
edge of this slot, so that the end-shakes may have free play in all
positions of the watch.
Ascertain that the balance-spring is flat; that it coils and uncoils
regularly without constraint; that it does not touch the center wheel,
the stud, or the inner curb-pin (with its second coil). The rapid
examination of the escapement may now be regarded as completed if the
watch in hand is merely being cleaned after having previously gone well.
But if engaged on a watch that has not gone well previously, or if
examining a new one, the action of the escapement must be thoroughly
tested.
=457.= =Visible Depths.= While the train is in motion through the
force of the mainspring or the pressure of a finger against the barrel
teeth, examine with a glass all the depths that are visible. That of
the escapement, for example, can be easily seen through the jeweled
pivot-hole when this is flat, the watch being laid horizontal and a
powerful glass used. When the action cannot be seen in this manner with
sufficient distinctness, hold the watch up against the light and look
through it. Depths that cannot be clearly seen, or about which any
doubt exists, must be subsequently verified by touch. (=458.=)
If examining a new watch, it may be found necessary to form inclined
notches at the edge of the cocks or near the center hole of the
plate so to see the action of the depths. But it is important that
the settings of the jewels are not disturbed, and indeed that enough
metal is left around these holes to admit of their being re-bushed if
necessary.
=458.= =Invisible and Doubtful Depths.= These must be tested by touch,
and the requisite corrections applied after having re-polished the
pivots, etc., as may be necessary. We would observe that holes a trifle
large are less inconvenient than those which afford too little play;
providing the depths are in good condition.
=459.= =Length of Balance Pivots: Centering the Balance-Spring.= Remove
the end-stone from the chariot and see that the pivot projects enough
beyond the pivot-hole when the plate is inverted. Then remove the cock
and detach it from the balance. Take off the balance-spring with its
collet from this latter and place it on the cock inverted, so as to see
whether the collet is central when the outer coil is midway between
the curb-pins. Remove the cock end-stone and end-stone cap, place the
top balance pivot in its hole and see that it projects a little beyond
the pivot-hole.
Place the balance in the figure-of-=8= calliper to test its truth, and,
at the same time, to see that it is sufficiently in poise; it must be
remembered, however, that the balance is sometimes put out of poise
intentionally.
=460.= =Play of Train-Wheel Pivots.= Allow the train to run down: if it
does so noisily or by jerks, it may be assumed that some of the depths
are bad in consequence either of the teeth being badly formed, or the
holes too large, etc. To test the latter point, cause the wheels to
revolve alternately in opposite directions by applying a finger to the
barrel or center-wheel teeth, at the same time noting the movement of
each pivot in turn in its hole; a little practice, comparing several
watches together, will soon enable the workman to judge whether the
play is correct. The running down of the train will also indicate
whether any pivots are bent. Now remove the barrel-bar with its several
attachments.
=461.= =Center-Wheel: Bad Uprighting.= Remove the third wheel, and, if
necessary, test the uprighting of the center-wheel by passing a round
broach or taper arbor through it, and setting the plate in rotation
about this axis, holding a card near the edge while doing so. This will
indicate at once whether the axis of the wheel is at right angles to
the plate.
When a marked deviation is detected, or the holes are found to be too
large, they must be re-bushed and uprighted again. When, however, the
error is but slight the axes may be set vertical by bending the steady
pins a little, in doing which proceed as follows:
Set the bar in its place alone, the screw or screws being a little
unscrewed, and rest the side of the bar opposite to that towards which
it is to be bent against a piece of brass held in the vise, and strike
the farther edge of the plate one or two sharp blows with a small
wooden mallet. Experience alone can teach the workman to proportion
the blow so as to obtain a given amount of deviation, and must enable
him to ascertain whether it is desirable or not to pass a broach
through the steady-pin holes before operating as above explained. Some
discretion is essential in practising the method.
It is important that the center pivots project beyond the holes in the
plate and bar. A circular recess is turned around the outer end of each
of these holes so as to form reservoirs for oil. Owing to the neglect
of these simple precautions, which are so easy to take, many watches,
especially those that are thin, come back for repair with their
center pivots in a bad state, because the oil could not be applied in
sufficient quantity, and has been drawn away by the cannon pinion or
the steel shield.
If the watch has a seconds hand, ascertain by means of the calliper
that its wheel is upright. Finally, examine each jewel to see that it
is neither cracked nor rough at the edges of the hole.
=462.= =The Barrel: to Take Down and Repair.= The side spring, which
must not be too strong, should reach with certainty to the bottom of
the spaces between the teeth of the ratchet, and this latter should
be held steadily in position by the cap. It is a good plan after
making the extensive repairs here spoken of to again test the barrel
and center pinion depth, either by touch of by drilling a hole for
observation.
The screw of the star-wheel must not project within the cover nor rub
against the dial; it must be reduced if either case presents itself.
The action of the stopwork must be well assured, especially when the
actual stop occurs. It is a good plan to, as it were, “round-up” the
star-wheel and finger-piece, with an emery stick, supporting them on
arbors. There must be no possibility of friction between the finger and
the bottom of its sink.
[Illustration: _Fig. 225._]
=463.= =To Test the Stopwork.= Take up the winding square of an arbor,
with the barrel, etc., in position, in a pair of sliding tongs or a
Birch key; hold the tongs between the last three fingers and the palm
of the left hand, the first finger and thumb being applied to the
circumference of the barrel so as to rotate it, first in one direction
and then in the other. During this movement, take a pegwood point in
the right-hand, and try to turn the star-wheel _against_ the direction
in which it would be impelled by the finger; the position is indicated
by B in Fig. 225. The tooth that is just going to engage with the
finger will thus be caused to take up the worst possible position for
being turned, and thus, if the action proves to be satisfactory for
each tooth, we may rest content as to the future; providing, of course,
that the engagement takes place square, and there is no tendency to
cause distortion of the metal. When the corner of C is stopped against
the convex tooth of the star-wheel, the finger should be free in a
space, and directed towards the center of A. By holding the sliding
tongs in a vise both hands can be kept at liberty.
For details in regard to the examination and repair of keyless
mechanism, see article =481=.
ACCESSORIES FOR BEGINNERS.
=464.= To facilitate the work by securing order in taking to pieces and
cleaning, preventing the screws from being mixed, etc., it is a good
practice to prepare beforehand one or more boards, in which grooves and
holes are made in positions to correspond with those of the several
pieces on the plate of the watch, as indicated by Fig. 226.
[Illustration: _Fig. 226._]
The round holes receive the cock and bar screws, which may be cleaned
while the other parts are in the benzine solution. (Two holes are shown
side by side for each bar and cock, so that the same plate will serve
for a large and small watch). The oval or circular hollows at _a_ and
around _m_ receive the cap screws, and _m_ the shield; _c_, _c_, _c_,
hold the screws of the side spring and star-wheel and the finger-piece
pin; _j_ is for the screws of the top end-stone, and _n_ for those of
the bottom end-stone, etc.
It may be well here to mention the very convenient divided boxes for
holding the several parts of a watch when taken to pieces that are in
general use by watchmakers. They measure about six inches by four, and
one inch in depth, thus being large enough to contain all the parts of
any ordinary watch.
At first every young watchmaker will find the advantage of noting on
paper, bearing the number of the watch, the successive operations that
have to be done. He will then merely have to strike them out one by one
as the work progresses. As he becomes more practiced he can dispense
with this auxiliary.
CLEANING THE WATCH.
=465.= Whatever system of cleaning is adopted it is essential that it
be concluded by passing a pegwood point into each of the holes.
Brilliancy is given to the surfaces of cleaned pieces by passing a
carefully kept fine brush over them. A brush that is greasy can only
be cleaned by soap and water, and a new brush is prepared for use by
passing an inclined cutting edge over the ends of its bristles so as
to taper them off to fine points, and to remove knots due either to
hard parts or to bristles becoming united. This preliminary treatment
is completed by charging the brush with French chalk, and rubbing it
vigorously on a dry crust of bread until the brush can be passed over
a gilded surface without scratching it. The bristles are maintained
in good condition by the same treatment. Billiard chalk is also very
effective for this purpose, and the greater number of cavities there
are in the crust the better it will act. A burnt bone is an excellent
substitute for the crust, and has the advantage of causing the brush to
impart a very brilliant appearance to objects to which it is applied.
=466.= =To Clean with a Brush.= This method is less used now than
formerly, as it can be adopted with safety with the old-fashioned
gilding, but is too severe for the thin galvanic coats that are applied
at the present day. It may, however, be resorted to for getting up the
surface of polished brass wheels, for example.
Put some French chalk or powdered sal-ammoniac (which can be bought
at a chemist’s) in pure alcohol. Shake the mixture, and with a fine
paint brush coat the object with a small quantity of it, subsequently
brushing the surface with a brush that is in very good condition.
Polished wheels may be made to present a very brilliant appearance
by this means, but their teeth and the leaves of pinions must be
afterwards carefully cleaned.
The French chalk and sal-ammoniac are all the more effective according
as they have remained a longer time in the alcohol; doubtless owing to
the fact that the hard grains met with in them are then more completely
dissolved.
=467.= =Soaping.= It is advisable to use a soap that quickly produces a
good lather; and the object is held in the hand and cleaned by rubbing
with a soft brush charged with this lather; then immerse first in clean
water, and subsequently in alcohol, moving it about in each: it may be
left for a few seconds in this latter, and, on being removed, is dried
with a fine linen rag or soft muslin. A stroke with a soft brush in
good condition will give brilliancy to the surface. As water sometimes
dissolves the soap very slowly, it is desirable that it be employed
warm. If about to soap polished wheels, the surface must be first got
up with a buffstick and rouge, or by brushing with sal-ammoniac.
The balance spring may be cleaned by laying it on a linen rag doubled,
and tapping it gently with a brush charged with lather; then dipping in
water and alcohol in succession.
The alcohol may be used hot or cold; its action is, however, more rapid
and effective in the former case. But there is no occasion to use hot
alcohol except when dealing with substances such as wax, that resist
its action.
=468.= =Essences and Benzine.= The employment of essences in cleaning
watches is becoming more general every day. They are to be obtained
at all material dealers, together with full instructions in regard to
their use. A few observations may nevertheless not be out of place here.
The objects are left in the solution for a few minutes in order to
allow all adhering matter to dissolve, but they must not remain too
long, as certain qualities of benzine, etc., are apt to leave stains.
Dry the pieces on removing them, and finish by passing over a fine
brush that has been charged with chalk and subsequently been rubbed on
a hard crust or burnt bone; as has already been observed, this will
produce a brilliant surface on either gilding or polished brass.
The following composition, the ingredients of which can be obtained
at any chemist’s, has been strongly recommended to us by a clever
watchmaker:
90 parts by weight of refined petroleum.
25 ” ” sulphuric ether.
The objects are immersed for several minutes; indeed, they may remain
for a longer period without danger, and on removal from the bath are
found to be clean and bright. It must not be forgotten that many of
these essences are liable to ignite with the mere proximity of a lamp.
PUTTING THE WATCH TOGETHER.
=469.= The three following rules must be observed in arranging a system
of putting the watch together: (1) avoid taking up the same piece two
or more times; (2) hold it lightly, as any pressure will produce a
mark; (3) keep it as short a time as possible in the fingers. Any linen
rags used must be free from fluff, but rags of all kinds should as far
as possible be replaced by certain kinds of tissue paper. The best
kind will be that which, while securing a given degree of pliability,
will best prevent heat and moisture from passing through. Blue-shaded
tissue paper should be avoided, as it is often found to encourage the
formation of rust on steel work.
=470.= The following order is adopted by some excellent watchmakers in
putting together the ordinary form of Geneva watch; it may be adopted
exactly or modified as experience dictates.
Commence by putting the several parts of the barrel together, attaching
it to the bar and observing the directions given farther on (=474=)
in regard to the distribution of oil. Owing to the position of the
stop-finger, it is sometimes found that the mainspring must be set up
either one-quarter or three-quarters of a turn. Very often one-quarter
is not sufficient, and in such cases it is necessary, before putting
together, to ascertain that the spring admits of at least 5 or 5¼
turns in the barrel. If it will not allow this amount, and yet has to
be set up three-quarters of a turn, too great a strain will come upon
the eye of the spring in winding. Fix the chariot with its end-stone on
the under side of the plate.
Replace the fourth wheel, making sure that it is free and has no more
than the requisite end-shake and is upright. Then the escape-wheel,
testing it in a similar manner. See that the teeth have sufficient
freedom on both sides of the cock passage, then make the two wheels run
together with a pair of tweezers of pegwood, in all positions of the
plate, to make sure of everything being free.
=471.= After attaching the index and end-stone to the balance-cock and
the balance-spring to the balance (observing that the center of the
stud is against the dot on the balance rim), place some oil in both
the balance pivot-holes (=476=); adjust the balance to the cock after
placing a drop of oil in the cylinder (though a much better plan is
that given in article =476=), and set in position on the plate. Some
workmen apply a drop of oil to the top of the escape-wheel pivot-hole
before setting the balance-cock in its place, but others prefer only to
add the oil after the escapement has been tested.
Placing a small piece of paper first between the balance and cock, and
then between the balance and plate, ascertain whether the escape-wheel
occupies its correct position in reference to the cylinder, in order
that the escapement may act properly. This test is especially necessary
in dealing with very thin watches or those in which the cylinder
banking slot is exceptionally narrow. The barrel bar is now fixed to
the plate.
=472.= Set the third wheel in its place, and lastly the center wheel,
after putting a little oil on the shoulder of its bottom pivot. Before
putting the bar over it, apply oil to the top pivot in a similar
manner; then screw it down. After this is done screw on the third wheel
cock.
Now apply a small quantity of oil to the two center pivots, and very
lightly to the others that have not already been oiled; give a turn
to the key and listen to the tick of the watch in all positions. This
should always be done before replacing it in the case.
After passing the slightly-oiled set-hands arbor through the center
pinion, and adapting the cannon pinion to its end, reverse the watch,
passing the end of the center arbor through a hole in the riveting
stake, so that the watch is supported on the end of the cannon pinion;
a light blow of the hammer on the square end of this arbor will then
suffice to drive the cannon pinion home. Some do this before replacing
the movement in its case, and some after.
Add a little oil to such pivots as have not already received enough,
and fix in their places the remaining parts of the motion work, the
dial and hands: the watch then only requires to be timed.
=473.= =Precautions to be Observed in Applying Oil.= The method of
distributing and applying the oil is of more importance than might be
thought, and has a very marked influence on both the time of going and
the rate.
Oil that is very fluid may be used for the escapement and fine pivots,
where only a small quantity is needed and the pressure is slight;
but it is not suitable in other places on account of its tendency to
spread, and thus leave the rubbing surfaces.
If too much oil is applied the effect is the same as if there had been
too little; it runs away, and only a minute quantity is left where it
is wanted.
=474.= _Barrel._ It is not enough to apply oil to the coils of the
spring; some must also be placed on the bottom of the barrel. Before
putting on the cover, moisten the shoulder of the arbor-nut that comes
in contact with it with oil; by doing so, when oil is applied to the
pivot, after the cover is in its place, this oil will be retained at
the center of the boss in the cover. Moreover, it will not then be
drawn away by the finger-piece, passing from this to the star-wheel.
The oil applied to the upper surface of the ratchet to reduce its
friction against the cap must not be in such quantity as to spread on
to the winding square. It is a good plan to round off the lower corner
of this cover.
=475.= _Center-wheel._ The observation made above in reference to the
oil applied to the barrel-cover may be repeated here. By proceeding as
explained in article =472=, and adopting the precautions mentioned at
the end of article =461=, it is possible to make sure of the pivots
lasting for a long period.
=476.= _Escapement pivots: Cylinder._ When the drop of oil is
introduced into the oil-cup of the balance pivot-hole, insert a very
fine pegwood point, so as to cause the descent of the oil; a small
additional quantity may then be applied. When this precaution is not
taken, it frequently happens that in inserting the balance pivot its
conical shoulder draws away some of the oil, and there is a deficiency
both in the hole and on the end-stone.
As has been already noticed (=471=), some workmen place a single
drop of oil within the cylinder, and when the escape-wheel advances
each tooth takes some up. This method is unsatisfactory, because the
earlier teeth receive such a quantity of oil that it runs down the
pillars, where it is useless and merely tends to increase the weight of
the wheel. A much better plan is to put a very small quantity in the
cylinder, and on the flat of each tooth or every second or third tooth.
It will thus be evenly distributed, and will not tend to flow away.
The escape-wheel pivots require but a small quantity of oil. It often
happens, however, that, owing to carelessness, the workman applies
too much, and it runs down to the pinion. The leaves will thus become
greasy and stick, while the pivots are running dry.
TO EXAMINE ENGLISH OR AMERICAN MOVEMENTS.
=477.= As has been already observed in article =453=, many of the
remarks made in speaking of the Geneva movement are equally applicable
to that of English or American construction, and any intelligent
watchmaker, on reading articles =450-463=, will be able to select
for himself whatever has a bearing on the English watch, without
difficulty. It will be well, however, to supplement it by the special
directions contained in the four following articles:
=478.= =Case, Glass, Dial, Cap, Dome.= In addition to the points
specified in articles =451-452=, the following require attention. See
that the position of dial is not altered by closing down the bezel,
that the fuzee dust cap does not touch the dome or cap, and that
the diamond end-stone or other jeweling of the balance-cock is free
of the case. In ¾-plate watches the chain is occasionally found to
rub against the edge of the case, or the top-plate to press against
the bottom edge of the same, causing the train to bind. See that the
balance and chain and the fuzee great wheel are free of the cap, where
one exists; the chain is especially liable to rub after the breaking
of a strong spring, which may cause the barrel to bulge, when it may
also rub against the potence. Ascertain that none of the dial-plate
feet or pins touch the train, that the hour wheel is clear of the third
and fourth wheel bar, and the minute wheel out of contact with the
dial-plate and not pressed by the dial. See that the third wheel is
free in its hollow, and that the balance, more especially in oversprung
watches, is clear of the barrel.
=479.= =Movement.= The regulator or index must be tested, especially
in watches that are undersprung, at several points between “fast” and
“slow,” to see that it nowhere approaches too near to the spring, is
held with sufficient firmness, and that it never comes near enough to
the guard pin for contact to occur. See that the potence screw and
steady-pins do not project, and that the barrel does not touch the
name-plate, balance-cock, top-plate hollowing or great wheel.
Before taking off the top-plate, notice the position of the detent
in the steel wheel, and the amount of its end-shake; the wear of the
holes, and freedom of the train wheels; the position of the third
pinion with respect to the center wheel, and that of the escape wheel
to the lever; see that the banking pins are not loose or bent; that the
guard pin, which protects the balance staff when the chain breaks, is
near enough to the barrel and the potence. When the watch is taken to
pieces, any loose pillars or joints must be secured, pivots examined
to see whether worn or bent, and those working on end-stones that
they come through the holes. The fourth wheel pinion must be free in
the hollow of the pillar plate and the center wheel in its hollow;
a similar examination also must be made of the collet and pin which
secure the great wheel to the fusee. If a chain is broken near the
barrel end, the stopwork is probably defective or the spring too strong.
The following faults may be met with in the English stopwork. The stop
may come opposite the fusee snail too soon or too late, allowing one
turn too few or too many of the fusee; or the back of the snail may
butt against the stop, and thus stop the watch after going for a few
hours. Overwinding sometimes occurs in consequence of the stop-spring
being locked between the shoulder of the stop and its brass stud; and
the blade of the snail or the end of the stop may be worn or bent in
cleaning.
In ¾-plate fusee watches, see that the balance does not come too
near to the fusee, fourth wheel, center wheel, and sometimes the
escape-wheel. It is to be observed that the breaking of a mainspring
sometimes causes certain teeth of the great wheel to be strained.
=480.= =Escapement.= It may be well to note the few following
particulars that should always be attended to. See that ruby-pin and
pallet stones are firmly set, that neither pallets nor roller is
loose on its staff, and that the lever and pallets are rigidly fixed
together. The guard pin must be firm, the balance well riveted to its
collet, the spring collet sufficiently tight and the curb pins firm. If
there is a compensation balance, ascertain that each screws tight. The
precautions to be observed in regard to the balance-spring are given in
article =456=.
=481.= =Keyless Work.= So great a variety of arrangements of the
mechanism for winding watches at the pendant is met with at the present
day that it would be impossible to give detailed directions in regard
to their examination; the following general remarks, however, mainly
taken from the work of M. A. Philippe on Keyless Watches,[6] will be
found of value in directing attention to the points which most require
it, and will suffice for any intelligent workman. Is should be observed
at the outset, however, that the adjustment of keyless work is almost
entirely a question of depths, and the workman who has thoroughly
mastered this subject will rarely experience any difficulty in dealing
with keyless mechanism.
Carefully observe each depth, etc., in succession, to make sure that no
prejudicial friction occurs either between teeth or by contiguous parts
coming in contact. All springs should act solely in the direction in
which pressure is required of them. Special attention should be given
to the intermediate steel wheel for communicating motion to the cannon
pinion, when this exists, as it is permanently in gear with the train,
so that any unevenness of the depth will effect the rate: if the minute
wheel have too much end-shake or play on its stud, it is apt to ride
on the intermediate steel wheel. The friction of the cannon pinion on
the set-hands arbor must not be excessive, since it would involve too
great a strain on the teeth of the minute wheel, nor too slight, since
the hands would be liable to be displaced on releasing the set-hands
stud. If the intermediate wheel has too much end-shake, limit this by
an eccentric screw overlapping its edge.
Test the spring of the set-hands stud, to see that it is not too strong
nor too weak and that it moves parallel with the plate. Failure in this
latter particular might lead to its rising on to the rocking-bar or
other pieces on which its acts.
The winding pinion depth must be examined to see that it is neither too
deep nor shallow.
The set-hands stud-spring must be strong enough to resist any
accidental pressure on the stud, but, on the other hand, the strength
must not be excessive, as the spring will then be all the more liable
to break, besides causing inconvenience when setting the hands. The
course of the spring should be banked at the point which gives a good
depth between the winding and intermediate wheels. The minute-wheel
stud must be firm in the plate, as any accidental binding might
otherwise unscrew it, occasioning the breakage of the dial. When the
minute hand is carried by the set-hands arbor, and not by the cannon
pinion, care is necessary in fitting this latter, for if too loose
it will rotate in setting the hands without carrying the minute hand
round, and the minute and hour hand will cease to agree.
It is important that attention be paid to the application of oil to
keyless work, as, in its absence, rust rapidly forms, and the mechanism
becomes bound. Of course, all bearing surfaces, such as the interior
of the pendant, intermediate and minute wheel studs, studs or screws
of the rocking bar or other surfaces on which wheels rotate, must be
lubricated; an equally important point is to liberally oil the teeth of
the winding pinion and the bevel or crown wheel that engages with it.
The application of a little oil inside and outside the cannon pinion
must not be forgotten.
TO RAPIDLY TIME A WATCH OR CLOCK.
=482.= It seems desirable to supplement the information here given by a
few details, since we have observed that, either from want of patience
or method, many watchmakers are not always successful in counting the
vibrations.
=483.= =To Practice Counting Vibrations.= At the outset it is to be
observed that to each vibration to the right there is a corresponding
one to the left, so that it is only necessary to observe those in one
direction, or else to count one for each two impacts of the escapement,
in a minute (or half-minute), in order to ascertain the number of
vibrations.
14,400 vibrations per hour correspond to 4 per second; that is 240 per
minute, or 120 per half-minute, and the half of this number is 60.
Similarly, a 16,200 train would give 4½ vibrations per second; or 270
in a minute, the half of which number is 135.
An 18,000 train giving 5 vibrations per second, or 150 per half-minute,
would count 75 in this interval of time.
This being understood, the required number of vibrations is to be
ascertained as follows:
The movement is placed in such a position that the light is reflected
from an arm of the balance, so that, by reference to some fixed point,
(such as the side of the balance-cock, the stud, etc.), each return
of the balance can be noted and counted. A very little practice will
remove any difficulty that may be experienced in doing this. When the
requisite skill has been acquired, one can listen to the impacts of the
escapement while continuing to count, and in order to determine with
greater facility the correspondence of the position of the balance
with successive pairs of vibrations, close the eyes from time to time
while still counting. On opening them, the accuracy of the coincidence
can be at once tested by the sight, and, with a little patience, it is
possible to count the double vibrations with certainty in this manner,
both by the eye and ear; it is only necessary when nearing the end of
the minute or half-minute to continue counting aloud, while keeping the
eye on the regulator: for the ear will guide the voice, which will thus
accurately reflect the motions of the watch.
The above explanations will be sufficient to enable any watchmaker
of average intelligence to acquire the power of counting vibrations,
either in the manner here recommended, or by modifying it in any manner
that may suit his temperament. This power, when once acquired, will be
of very great assistance in his daily work, for before taking a watch
to pieces that requires repair, he can in one or two minutes ascertain
the number of vibrations it should make; he will thus be enabled to
regulate the watch almost instantaneously when the necessary repairs
have been completed. We would again observe that the main point is to
educate the ear to ignore each alternate vibration, and thus to count
only the intervals of the balance being in the same position and the
same phase of its motion.
=484.= =Vibration Counter.= Leclerre’s Vibration Counter is shown in
Fig. 227. R is a ratchet wheel with 30 teeth, mounted on a vertical
plate, so that it can rotate freely. A pawl, _v_, prevents its movement
except when forced forward one tooth at a time by depressing the spring
gathering-click, _p_, a finger being applied to the button, _o_, each
time the word “ten” is uttered. The number of teeth advanced thus
affords a record of the vibrations without there being any necessity to
go into higher figures.
[Illustration: _Fig. 227._]
=485.= =To Regulate a Watch.= Place the movement near to a regulator or
watch indicating seconds, in such a position that the eye can easily
observe the periodical return of an arm of the balance, as already
explained, and commence to count, always starting from the instant at
which the seconds hand points to zero. Then count steadily 1, 2, 3, 4,
etc., until this hand reaches 30 seconds.
Assume, as is very commonly the case, that the balance should make
18,000 vibrations in an hour, or 150 in a half-minute, and that, on
counting its vibrations, we find 65 double vibrations, or 130 beats,
whereas it should give 150. It is thus 20 beats slow. Advance the
index, and repeat the operation; and so on till the regulation is
effected.
A greater degree of accuracy will be secured by counting for a longer
period, say one, two, or three minutes; but when this is done, it is
advisable, in order to avoid confusion, to recommence at one after each
30 or 50 have been counted, because all that is required is the final
deviation.
_Remarks._ 1. All men are not equally quick of perception, so that, in
counting and uttering the word _one_, it will be found to correspond
with the end of the first beat in the case of some observers, and its
commencement with others. By practicing on a well regulated watch, a
watchmaker can determine to which of these classes he belongs. If to
the second, he should double the _one_ at starting; in other words, he
should count thus:
1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc.
2. Advantage may be taken of the principle of the sounding-board by
placing the watch on a sonorous body which will make the vibrations
louder, or by placing between the plate of the watch and the ear a rod
that is a good conductor of sound. By either or both of these means,
the operation is rendered very easy, especially if the vibration
counter recording the tens is employed.
=486.= =Another Method of Regulating a Watch.= When the movement is in
going order, arrest the balance and make a mark with rouge on one arm
of the escape-wheel. Release the balance when the seconds hand of the
regulator crosses 60. Observing the number of revolutions that should
be made by the escape-wheel in a given time (it would be six turns per
minute with an ordinary 18,000 train), count its revolutions while the
fourth wheel makes one complete turn; indeed, even this counting may
be avoided by making a rouge mark on its edge where it corresponds
with the mark already made on the escape-wheel. If after two or three
minutes these two marks are found to occupy similar positions at the
instant the seconds hand of the regulator crosses 60, the watch is to
time. If there is any difference it is easy to ascertain whether this
indicates a gain or a loss, and the index is moved accordingly.
=487.= =To Regulate a Clock.= The timing of timepieces by counting
vibrations is much more easy than that of watches.
Before removing the pendulum count the number of its vibrations during
two or three minutes. This time will be sufficient to afford a guide in
regulating the clock after it has been repaired.
In most modern timepieces the escape wheel makes 120 revolutions in an
hour, or two in a minute. Hence we have two modes of timing.
(1). Having made a light mark on the circumference of this wheel
opposite to a fixed point, observe if the coincidence is maintained
after intervals of two or three.
(2). Multiply the number of the escape-wheel teeth by 2, and the
product by 120. This gives the number of oscillations the pendulum
should make in an hour. Thence deduce the number it should make in two
minutes, or the number per minutes can be obtained by multiplying the
first product by 2, and it only remains to count the number actually
performed in any definite interval.
=488.= =Guilmet’s Synchrometer.= When a clock is to time, its pendulum
makes a certain definite number of oscillations per minute, dependent
on the train. If, therefore, before taking it to pieces a comparison
pendulum be set to make the same number of oscillations as that of
the clock, or if the former be set to make the number which the train
shows that the clock pendulum should perform, it can be used as a term
of comparison for setting the clock to time after it has been cleaned.
This is the principle on which the synchrometer is based. A pendulum
is lightly supported on a frame, and has an adjustable rod sliding in
a tube, and graduated so that it can be firmly set without difficulty
to give the various periods of oscillation commonly met with in
timepieces. The pendulum is hung freely without any train to drive it,
and continues to oscillate for two or three minutes, quite long enough
to ascertain whether agreement is maintained between the two pendulums.
=489.= =Other Methods of Regulating a Clock.= Various plans have been
recently proposed for rapidly timing a clock, all based upon one
idea: namely, the temporary addition of a seconds hand for purposes
of observation. That suggested by M. Jacomin is recommended by its
simplicity.
Having removed the pin and washer that maintain the minute hand in
position in an ordinary timepiece, replace them by a light brass cap
that can be fixed by a screw or in any convenient manner, so that a
fine steel pin projecting from it shall be accurately in the axis of
the minute wheel. Part of a watch movement, comprising only the center,
third and fourth wheels with seconds hand attached, is supported in
front of the clock dial, so that this pin can be inserted in place of
the set-hands arbor, and it is evident that, if the clock is to time,
the seconds hand should perform one revolution per minute as it will
form part of the clock train. The length of pendulum must then be
varied until this condition is found to be satisfied.
TIMING IN POSITIONS.
HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL.
=490.= To adjust a watch so that it has the same rate when first placed
in a horizontal and then in a vertical position is a delicate and often
difficult operation; thus it is seldom found to be properly done in
ordinary watches.
The rates in a vertical and horizontal position are made identical
or nearly so by equalizing the resistances that interfere with the
motion of the balance in the two cases, and by taking advantage of the
displacement of the center of gravity of the balance spring.
Satisfactory results will be obtained in most cases by employing
the following methods, either separately, or two or more together,
according to the results of experiments or the rates, the experience
and the judgment of the workman:
1. Flatten slightly the ends of the balance pivots so as to increase
their radii of friction; when the watch is lying flat the friction will
thus become greater.
2. Let the thickness of the jewel-holes be no more than is absolutely
necessary. It is sometimes thought sufficient to chamfer the jewel hole
so as to reduce the surface on which friction occurs; but this does not
quite meet the case, since an appreciable column of oil is maintained
against the pivot.
3. Reduce the diameters of the pivots, of course changing the
jewel-holes. The resistance due to friction, when the watch is
vertical, increases rapidly with any increase in the diameters of
pivots.
4. Let the balance spring be accurately centered, or it must usually
be so placed that the lateral pull tends to lift the balance when the
watch is hanging vertical. In this and the next succeeding case it
would sometimes be advantageous to be able to change the point at which
it is fixed; but this is seldom possible.
5. Replace the balance spring by one that is longer or shorter but of
the same strength; this is with a view to increase or diminish the
lateral pressure in accordance with the explanation given in the last
paragraph.
6. Set the escapement so that the strongest impulse corresponds with
the greatest resistance of the balance.
7. Replace the balance. A balance that is much too heavy renders the
timing for position impossible.
8. Lastly, when these methods are inapplicable or insufficient, there
only remains the very common practice of setting the balance “out of
poise.”
If there is a gain in the vertical hanging position of the watch,
slightly reduce the _lower_ side of the balance; the oscillation will
increase somewhat in extent, and there will be a losing rate in this
position.
The converse must be done in the opposite case.
When the vibration exceeds a whole turn, the changes will be the
reverse of those above indicated. This fact must not be forgotten,
especially in regard to the duplex and lever escapements, which may
at first make a vibration of more than a turn, and subsequently less,
according to the state of the oil.
We would again observe that the timing of a watch for position presents
some difficulty, and it will only be after making a number of trials
that the watchmaker will be able to accomplish it with certainty.
NOTE ON THE PROPORTIONS OF BALANCES.
=491.= Two very important elements in the timing are the weight and
dimensions of the balance; it is, then, necessary that a watchmaker
should practice himself in observing their relative values, and the
effect of increasing one at the expense of the other on timing, and
more especially on timing for positions.
The _sensibility_ of a balance to variations in the motive force, and
the time that elapses between the initial short vibration and the
first that is of normal extent, a time that is approximately constant
will serve as criteria. A balance that is very sensitive to variations
in the motive force is generally too small; and one that attains to
the normal arc of vibration almost instantaneously is, as a rule, too
light. The converse effects would indicate that the size and weight
were excessive.
In order that he may be able to practically apply these remarks, the
workman should gain experience by making observations on several
watches whose rate is known to be good, in the following manner.
In regard to _weight_: Stop the balance at the position of rest of its
spring, then release it and count the number of vibrations up to the
point at which the normal arc is attained; the extent of this must have
been previously recorded on the plate with rouge marks.
Record the number thus obtained in a table opposite to the dimensions
of the balance, and, by comparing these dimensions with those of
another balance of equal size, the weight can be ascertained and also
recorded.
In regard to _size_: Pass through the center pinion a kind of short
screw arbor carrying a large thin ferrule, on which a cord supporting a
weight is coiled. Fixing the movement in a movement holder, set it in a
vertical plane and observe the extent of the vibrations of the balance
with different weights attached to the cord.
These arcs should also be recorded in the table opposite to the
dimensions of the balance. With sufficient practice the watchmaker will
be enabled to judge at a glance whether the weight and size are well
proportioned.
DEMAGNETIZING.
=492.= The following method of removing the magnetism from a watch
that has been accidentally brought under the influence of a powerful
magnet is proposed by Professor A. L. Mayer. We shall not here enter
more fully into the subject than is necessary to indicate the manner in
which a watchmaker may restore the steel work to its original condition.
Take a delicately suspended magnetic needle, say a mariner’s compass,
the length of which is about equal to the diameter of the watch, and
lay it on a table. Now place the watch to be operated on, which should
not be going, on the table close to the needle and on either the east
or west side of it, having previously turned the box around until the
needle points to zero. Taking care not to vary the distance between the
centers of the watch and compass, observe the number of graduations to
which the north end of the needle is deflected with each figure on the
dial brought in succession nearest to the compass; it is also necessary
to note whether the deflection is towards the east or west.
For example, assume that the watch is on the east side, and that, with
noon nearest to the compass, the north end of the needle is turned 12°
to the east, that is, towards the watch. This shows that some point in
the watch in the neighborhood of the number XII on the dial possesses
what is known as “north polarity,” and if the deflection had been to
the west the polarity would have been “south.”
=493.= To take an example. Let the results of a series of trials with
the several hours in succession towards the compass be as given in the
following table:
==========================================================
Hour nearest to the } | I | II | III | IV | V | VI
Compass } | | | | | |
------------------------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----
Angle of Deflection | 5° | 18° | 72° | 56° | 22° | 5°
------------------------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----
Direction of Deflection | E | W | W | W | W | E
------------------------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----
Hence Polarity is | N | S | S | S | S | N
==========================================================
============================================================
Hour nearest to the } | VII | VIII | IX | X | XI | XII
Compass } | | | | | |
------------------------+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+----
Angle of Deflection | 17° | 16° | 16° | 20° | 24° | 20°
------------------------+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+----
Direction of Deflection | E | E | E | E | E | E
------------------------+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+----
Hence Polarity is | N | N | N | N | N | N
============================================================
[Illustration: _Fig. 228._]
It will be seen that the greatest deflection westward corresponds to
three o’clock, and, in the easterly direction, to eleven o’clock. This
shows that the strongest south and north polarity are respectively in
these directions. The first thing to be done is, then, to eliminate
this particular magnetism. Placing a bar magnet in a horizontal
direction, approach the watch to its south-seeking end in such a manner
that a line X X′, Fig. 228, through the axis of the magnet, will pass
through the center C of the watch, the figure XI, which marks the
point of extreme north polarity, being nearest to the bar magnet. Now
cause the watch to oscillate so that it alternately takes up the two
positions A and B, and, when this has been several times repeated,
bring III in a similar manner near the north-seeking pole of the bar
magnet, oscillating the watch in the same way. Again try the watch with
the compass, repeating the above operations if necessary until the
readings are somewhat as follows:
========================================================
Hour nearest to the } | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |
Compass } | | | | | | |
------------------------+----+----+-----+----+----+----+
Angle of Deflection | 5° | 4° | 0° | 5° | 8° | 2° |
------------------------+----+----+-----+----+----+----+
Direction of Deflection | E | E | | W | W | W |
------------------------+----+----+-----+----+----+----+
Hence Polarity is | N | N | | S | S | S |
========================================================
=========================================================
Hour nearest to the } | VII | VIII | IX | X | XI | XII
Compass } | | | | | |
------------------------+-----+------+----+----+----+----
Angle of Deflection | 4° | 4° | 2° | 1° | 0° | 2°
------------------------+-----+------+----+----+----+----
Direction of Deflection | E | E | E | E | | E
------------------------+-----+------+----+----+----+----
Hence Polarity is | N | N | N | N | | N
=========================================================
These figures show that, in counteracting the polarity at III and XI,
the magnetic action of the watch in all other positions has, as might
indeed have been anticipated, materially diminished. Such a condition
of things will, of course, not be attained at once, and it may even
happen that the polarity at the two points III and XI is reversed; in
such a case it is only necessary to oscillate the III in front of the
south-seeking pole instead of the north.
The last table shows that a maximum south polarity is now at V, and
north at I. These points must therefore be operated upon in the same
manner, and, by proceeding in this manner, and successively eliminating
the worst points, the magnetism may be effectually removed.
As proving the efficiency of the above method, Prof. Mayer mentions a
case in which a watch lost one hour in six in consequence of magnetism,
and yet after the above treatment, it resumed its original rate of
about a second per day.
=494.= =Another Method.= A second method of procedure has recently been
described by H. S. Maxim. He employs a specially arranged apparatus,
based on the principle that if a watch or other object be subjected to
rapid alterations of magnetism, while gradually withdrawing it from the
influence of the magnetic poles, the distance ultimately becomes so
great that the reversals are inappreciable, when the watch is found to
be demagnetized. A bar magnet is arranged to revolve in a horizontal
plane around a vertical axis; the watch being placed in a small pocket
opposite to the magnet, is caused to rotate in an ever-shifting
vertical plane, while the frame supporting it rotates in a horizontal
plane. While these movements continue the watch carrier is gradually
moved away from the magnet by the action of a long horizontal screw,
and it is stated that watches that have been completely spoiled can be
rendered perfectly free from magnetism by such an apparatus.
FOOTNOTES:
[6] _Les Montres sans Clefs_ (Geneva).