Produced by Dianne Bean. HTML version by Al Haines.
ARIZONA SKETCHES
by
Joseph A. Munk
CHAPTER
I. A ROMANTIC LAND
II. MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA
III. THE OPEN RANGE
IV. RANCH LIFE
V. THE ROUND-UP
VI. RANCH HAPPENINGS
VII. A MODEL RANCH
VIII. SOME DESERT PLANTS
IX. HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS
X. CANON ECHOES
XI. THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN
XII. THE CLIFF DWELLERS
XIII. THE MOQUI INDIANS
XIV. A FINE CLIMATE
CHAPTER I
A ROMANTIC LAND
A stranger on first entering Arizona is impressed with the newness and
wildness that surrounds him. Indeed, the change is so great that it
seems like going to sleep and waking up in a new world. Everything
that he sees is different from the familiar objects of his home, and he
is filled with wonder and amazement at the many curious things that are
brought to his notice. Judging the country by what is common back
east, the average man is disappointed and prejudiced against what he
sees; but, estimated on its merits, it is found to be a land of many
attractions and great possibilities.
A hasty trip through the country by rail gives no adequate idea of its
intrinsic value, as such a limited view only affords a superficial
glimpse of what should be leisurely and carefully examined to be
properly understood or appreciated. At the first glance it presents
the appearance of a desert, but to one who is acquainted with its
peculiarities it is by no means desolate. It furnishes a strong
contrast to the rolling woodlands of the far east, and to the boundless
prairies of the middle west; and, though it may never develop on the
plan of the older states, like California, it has an individuality and
charm of its own; and its endowment of natural wealth and beauty
requires no borrowing from neighbors to give it character or success.
It has grand scenery, a salubrious climate, productive soil, rich
mineral deposits and rare archaeological remains. It also has a
diversified fauna and flora. The peccary, Gila monster, tarantula,
centipede, scorpion and horned toad are specimens of its strange animal
life; and, the numerous species of cacti, yucca, maguey, palo verde and
mistletoe are samples of its curious vegetation. It is, indeed, the
scientist's Paradise where much valuable material can be found to
enrich almost every branch of natural science.
Hitherto its growth has been greatly retarded by its remote position in
Uncle Sam's domain; but, with the comparatively recent advent of the
railroad, the influx of capital and population, and the suppression of
the once dreaded and troublesome Apache, a new life has been awakened
that is destined to redeem the country from its ancient lethargy and
make it a land of promise to many home seekers and settlers.
When the Spaniards under Coronado first entered the land more than
three hundred and fifty years ago in search of the seven cities of
Cibola, they found upon the desert sufficient evidence of an extinct
race to prove that the land was once densely populated by an
agricultural and prosperous people. When or how the inhabitants
disappeared is unknown and may never be known. It is even in doubt who
they were, but, presumably, they were of the Aztec or Toltec race; or,
perhaps, of some civilization even more remote.
The Pueblo Indians are supposed to be their descendants, but, if so,
they were, when first found, as ignorant of their ancestors as they
were of their discoverers. When questioned as to the past they could
give no intelligent answer as to their antecedents, but claimed that
what the white man saw was the work of Montezuma. All that is known of
this ancient people is what the ruins show, as they left no written
record or even tradition of their life, unless it be some inscriptions
consisting of various hieroglyphics and pictographs that are found
painted upon the rocks, which undoubtedly have a meaning, but for lack
of interpretation remain a sealed book. The deep mystery in which they
are shrouded makes their history all the more interesting and gives
unlimited scope for speculation.
Arizona is a land that is full of history as well as mystery and
invites investigation. It has a fascination that every one feels who
crosses its border. Paradoxical as it may seem it is both the oldest
and newest portion of our country--the oldest in ancient occupation and
civilization and the newest in modern progress. In natural wonders it
boasts of the Grand Canon of Arizona, the painted desert, petrified
forest, meteorite mountain, natural bridge, Montezuma's well and many
other marvels of nature. There are also ruins galore, the cave and
cliff dwellings, crumbled pueblos, extensive acequias, painted rocks,
the casa grande and old Spanish missions. Anyone who is in search of
the old and curious, need not go to foreign lands, but can find right
here at home in Arizona and the southwest, a greater number and variety
of curiosities than can be found in the same space anywhere else upon
the globe.
Arizona is a land of strong contrasts and constant surprises, where
unusual conditions prevail and the unexpected frequently happens.
From the high Colorado plateau of northern Arizona the land slopes
toward the southwest to the Gulf of California. Across this long slope
of several hundred miles in width, numerous mountain ranges stretch
from the northwest to the southeast. Through the middle of the
Territory from east to west, flows the Gila river to its confluence
with the Colorado. This stream marks the dividing line between the
mountains which descend from the north and those that extend south,
which increase in altitude and extent until they culminate in the grand
Sierra Madres of Mexico.
The traveler in passing through the country never gets entirely out of
the sight of mountains. They rise up all about him and bound the
horizon near and far in every direction. In riding along he always
seems to be approaching some distant mountain barrier that ever recedes
before him as he advances. He is never clear of the encircling
mountains for, as often as he passes out of one enclosure through a gap
in the mountains, he finds himself hemmed in again by a new one. The
peculiarity of always being in the midst of mountains and yet never
completely surrounded, is due to an arrangement of dovetailing or
overlapping in their formation. His winding way leads him across
barren wastes, through fertile valleys, among rolling hills and into
sheltered parks, which combine an endless variety of attractive scenery.
An Arizona landscape, though mostly of a desert type, is yet full of
interest to the lover of nature. It presents a strangely fascinating
view, that once seen, will never be forgotten. It stirs a rapture in
the soul that only nature can inspire.
Looking out from some commanding eminence, a wide spreading and
diversified landscape is presented to view. Though hard and rugged,
the picture, as seen at a distance, looks soft and smooth and its
details of form and color make an absorbing study.
The eye is quick to note the different hues that appear in the field of
vision and readily selects five predominating colors, namely, gray,
green, brown, purple and blue, which mingle harmoniously in various
combinations with almost every other color that is known. The most
brilliant lights, sombre shadows, exquisite tints and delicate tones
are seen which, if put on canvas and judged by the ordinary, would be
pronounced exaggerated and impossible by those unfamiliar with the
original.
The prevailing color is gray, made by the dry grass and sandy soil, and
extends in every direction to the limit of vision. The gramma grass of
the and region grows quickly and turns gray instead of brown, as
grasses usually do when they mature. It gives to the landscape a
subdued and quiet color, which is pleasing to the eye and makes the
ideal background in a picture.
Into this warp of gray is woven a woof of green, spreading in irregular
patches in all directions. It is made by the chaparral, which is
composed of a variety of desert plants that are native to the soil and
can live on very little water. It consists of live oak, pinion,
mesquite, desert willow, greasewood, sage brush, palmilla, maguey,
yucca and cacti and is mostly evergreen.
The admixture of gray and green prevails throughout the year except
during the summer rainy season, when, if the rains are abundant, the
gray disappears almost entirely, and the young grass springs up as by
magic, covering the whole country with a carpet of living green. In
the midst of the billowy grass myriads of wild flowers bloom, and stand
single or shoulder to shoulder in masses of solid color by the acre.
Upon the far mountains is seen the sombre brown in the bare rocks. The
whole region was at one time violently disturbed by seismic force and
the glow of its quenched fires has even yet scarcely faded away. Large
masses of igneous rocks and broad streams of vitrified lava bear mute
testimony of the change, when, by some mighty subterranean force, the
tumultuous sea was rolled back from its pristine bed and, in its stead,
lofty mountains lifted their bald beads above the surrounding
desolation, and stand to-day as they have stood in massive grandeur
ever since the ancient days of their upheaval. Rugged and bleak they
tower high, or take the form of pillar, spire and dome, in some
seemingly well-constructed edifice erected by the hand of man. But the
mountains are not all barren. Vast areas of fertile soil flank the
bare rocks where vegetation has taken root, and large fields of forage
and extensive forests of oak and pine add value and beauty to the land.
The atmosphere is a striking feature of the country that is as pleasing
to the eye as it is invigorating to the body. Over all the landscape
hangs a veil of soft, purple haze that is bewitching. It gives to the
scene a mysterious, subtle something that is exquisite and holds the
senses in a magic spell of enchantment.
Distance also is deceptive and cannot be estimated as under other
skies. The far-off mountains are brought near and made to glow in a
halo of mellow light. Manifold ocular illusions appear in the mirage
and deceive the uninitiated. An indefinable dreamy something steals
over the senses and enthralls the soul.
Arching heaven's high dome is a sky of intense blue that looks so
wonderfully clear and deep that even far-famed Italy cannot surpass it.
The nights are invariably clear and the moon and stars appear unusually
bright. The air is so pure that the stars seem to be advanced in
magnitude and can be seen quite low down upon the horizon.
The changing lights that flash in the sky transform both the sunrise
and sunset into marvels of beauty. In the mellow afterglow of the
sunset, on the western sky, stream long banners of light, and fleecy
clouds of gold melt away and fade in the twilight.
At midday in the hazy distance, moving slowly down the valley, can be
seen spiral columns of dust that resemble pillars of smoke. They
ascend perpendicularly, incline like Pisa's leaning tower, or are beat
at various angles, but always retaining the columnar form. They rise
to great heights and vanish in space. These spectral forms are caused
by small local whirlwinds when the air is otherwise calm, and are,
apparently, without purpose, unless they are intended merely to amuse
the casual observer.
A cloudy day is rare and does not necessarily signify rain. Usually
the clouds are of the cumulus variety and roll leisurely by in billowy
masses. Being in a droughty land the clouds always attract attention
viewed either from an artistic or utilitarian standpoint. When out on
parade they float lazily across the sky, casting their moving shadows
below. The figures resemble a mammoth pattern of crazy patchwork in a
state of evolution spread out for inspection.
The impression that is made while looking out upon such a scene is that
of deep silence. Everything is hushed and still; but, by listening
attentively, the number of faint sounds that reach the ear in an
undertone is surprising. The soft soughing of the wind in the trees;
the gentle rustle of the grass as it is swayed by the passing breeze;
the musical ripple of water as it gurgles from the spring; the piping
of the quail as it calls to its mate; the twitter of little birds
flitting from bush to bough; the chirp of the cricket and drone of the
beetle are among the sounds that are heard and fall soothingly upon the
ear.
The trees growing upon the hillside bear a striking resemblance to an
old orchard and are a reminder of home where in childhood the hand
delighted to pluck luscious fruit from drooping boughs. A walk among
the trees makes it easy to imagine that you are in some such familiar
but neglected haunt, and instinctively you look about expecting to see
the old house that was once called home and hear the welcome voice and
footfall of cherished memory. It is no little disappointment to be
roused from such a reverie to find the resemblance only a delusion and
the spot deserted. Forsaken as it has been for many years by the
native savage Indians and prowling wild beasts, the land waits in
silence and patience the coming of the husbandman.