A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World
through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin
Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter
Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New
Year--Across a high Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in
Winter--The Last Summons.
The day following our arrival at the mouth of the Kanab Canyon was
Sunday, September 8th, and with the exception of some observations taken
by Prof., and the writing of notes, the whole camp was in a state of
rest. After our trying work in the granite we enjoyed immensely the
lying around warm and dry with plenty to eat. Monday morning everybody
expected to begin preparations for the descent to the Grand Wash. We
were surprised just as we were about to rise from our places around the
canvas on which breakfast had been spread, when the Major, who was
sitting in his chair thinking, suddenly exclaimed, "Well, boys, our
voyage is done!" In a way these words were a disappointment, for we all
wanted to complete the task and we were entirely ready to go on,
notwithstanding that our recent experience with high water in the
granite indicated great hazard ahead, where there was more granite; but
on the whole the disappointment was agreeable. We knew the second
granite gorge toward the lower end of the chasm to be nearly as bad as
the first one. There was besides one exceedingly difficult passage
there, which Prof. called Catastrophe Rapid, where the Howlands and Dunn
had left the first party, which on the prevailing stage of water the
Major believed would be foolhardy to attempt. Prof. in his diary says,
"It is nonsense to think of trying the lower bend with this water." He
and the Major had talked the matter over Saturday night and thought of
stopping about forty miles down at Mount Trumbull, where we knew we
could climb out; then they thought of sending only one boat that far,
but by Sunday night they decided to end all river work here. Prof. said
he could map the course from the notes of the first party and that he
would rather explore the adjacent country by land.[35] There were some
breaks in the notes from here down to Catastrophe Rapid, due to the fact
that when the papers were divided on that memorable day on which the
Howlands and Dunn left the party, instead of each division having a full
copy of all the notes, by a mistake they had only portions of both sets.
In addition to the difficulty of the forbidding Catastrophe Rapid there
was a possibility of an attack on us by the Shewits. Jacob through one
of his Pai Ute friends had information that they were preparing to lay
an ambush, and he sent warning to that effect. Jacob knew the natives
too well to have given us this notice unless he thought it a real
danger, but we did not allow it much consideration at the time. Yet it
would have been an easy matter for the Shewits to secrete themselves
where they could fall upon us in the night when we were used up by
working through some bad rapid, and then, hiding the goods, throw our
bodies into the river and burn the boats, or even turn them loose, thus
leaving no proof of their action, our disappearance naturally being laid
to destruction by the river, a termination generally anticipated. I have
sometimes thought that when they killed the Howlands and Dunn they did
it deliberately to get their guns and clothes, thinking it would not be
found out, or at least that they could put forth a good excuse, as they
did.
[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
At a Rapid--Low Water.]
We were in the field to accomplish certain work and not to perform a
spectacular feat, and the Major and Prof. having decided that the
descent of the remainder of the canyon, considering all the
circumstances, was for us impracticable and unnecessary, we prepared to
leave for Kanab. We unpacked the good old boats rather reluctantly. They
had come to possess a personality as such inanimate objects will, having
been our faithful companions and our reliance for many a hundred
difficult miles, and it seemed like desertion to abandon them so
carelessly to destruction. We ought to have had a funeral pyre. The
flags of the boats, which Mrs. Thompson had made and which had been
carried in them the entire way, were still to be disposed of, and that
of the _Dean_ was generously voted to me by the Major, Jack, and Jones,
who had crew claims to it; that of the _Nellie Powell_ was awarded to
Steward; while Clem received the _Cañonita's_. I tried to persuade the
Major to pack the _Dean_ out in sections and send her east to be kept as
a souvenir of the voyage, but he would not then listen to it, though
years later he admitted that he regretted not taking my suggestion.
Three years afterward I came back to this place with my own party and
would then have executed my desire, but no trace of our former outfit
remained except a hatch from one of the middle cabins, and the Major's
chair. The latter I carried to Salt Lake, where I presented it to Cap,
who was living there.
As before mentioned, the Colorado was so extremely high that the water
backed up into the Kanab Canyon, and it was there that we left the
boats, each tied to an oar stuck in the ground.[36] We could not get all
the goods on the horses of the pack-train, and left a portion to be
brought out later. Jack and Clem remained to make photographs, and
taking a last look at the boats, with a good-bye to all, we turned our
faces up the narrow chasm of the Kanab. A small stream ran in the
bottom, and this formed large pools amongst numerous ponderous boulders
that had fallen in from the top of the walls some three thousand feet
above our heads, the bottom being hardly more than sixty to seventy-five
feet wide. It was with considerable difficulty that we got the animals
past some of these places, and in one or two the pools were so long and
deep they had to swim a little. The prospectors the year before had
worked a trail to some extent, but here, where the floods ran high at
times, changes occurred frequently. By five o'clock we had gone about
eight miles up this slow, rough way, and arrived at a singular spring,
where we went into camp. This we called Shower-Bath Spring. The water
charged with lime had built out from the wall a semi-circular mass
covered by ferns, which was cut away below by the floods till one could
walk under in the sprinkling streams percolating through it. It was a
very pretty place, but like all of its kind in the deep gorges it was a
favourite resort for tarantulas, many of which we had seen in the depths
of the Grand Canyon. These, with scorpions, rattlesnakes, and
Gila-monsters, were the poisonous reptiles of the gorge.
[Illustration:
B. Preliminary map of a portion of the southern part of the unknown
country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95, showing the
Hurricane Ledge, Uinkaret and Shewits Mountains, and the course of the
Grand Canyon from the mouth of Kanab Canyon to the Grand Wash. The
Howlands and Dunn left the first expedition at Catastrophe Rapid, at the
sharp bend a few miles below the intersection of the river and longitude
113° 30', climbed out to the north, and were killed near Mt.
Dellenbaugh.]
The next morning, Tuesday, the 10th of September, our pack-train was
early on the way. The walls grew somewhat lower, though still two
thousand feet high, and the canyon was usually seventy-five to one
hundred feet wide at the bottom. There were patches of alluvial deposit
now along the sides of the watercourse, covered by fields of cactus
loaded with "apples," the prickly leaves compelling us to keep the trail
the prospectors had made by their passage to and from the ephemeral
Eldorado. After a time we emerged from the lower canyon into a wider one
in the way previously described; that is, like going from one floor to
another by an incline between narrow walls. The little stream having
vanished, a pool of rain-water helped us out for dinner, and while it
was preparing Prof. and I climbed up to secure notes on the topography.
A trifle before sunset we arrived at the cedar tree, a short distance
below the mouth of the Shinumo Canyon, where our party had camped the
previous March. The pockets were full of clear, fresh water, and we had
plenty for horses as well as men. Not far off some human bones were
found, old and bleached. We thought they must be the remains of one of
the Navajo raiders who escaped wounded from the Mormon attack near this
locality. The canyon bottom was quite wide at this point and
comparatively level, covered by rushes and grass, and the horses were
able to get a good meal.
During the day every time I dismounted to take compass bearings on the
trail I felt a sharp, peculiar pain shoot up my right leg from in front
about half-way between ankle and knee. I could only discover a small red
spot at the initial point, and concluded that I must have struck a sharp
rock or cactus spine. Our party now again divided, the Major and Jones
going up Shinumo Canyon to the Kaibab region, while Prof. and I rode on
up the Kanab Canyon, starting at eight o'clock in the morning,
Wednesday, September 11th, and riding steadily all day. As we had not
expected to come out in this way saddles were scarce. Prof. and the
Major had two of the three used by the packers, while the third was
awarded to Jones, who was to have a long ride on the Kaibab trip. The
rest of us had to make shift as we could, and I rigged up a "sawbuck"
pack-saddle, with rope loops for stirrups and a blanket across it to sit
on. This was not much better than, or as good perhaps as, bareback, and
the horse was a very hard trotter. We wished to reach Kanab that night.
We kept on at as rapid a gait as the canyon would permit, though it was
easier than in March, when the numerous miners had not yet broken a way
by their ingress and egress in search of the fabulous gold that was
supposed to exist somewhere in the inaccessibility of the great chasm.
The harder a locality is to arrive at the bigger the stories of its
wealth, while often in the attempts to reach it the prospector treads
heedlessly ground that holds fortunes up to his very eyes. We continued
straight up Kanab Canyon, the walls running lower and lower, till there
was nothing but rounded hills. Then we emerged on the summit, which was
a valley bottom, about twenty miles from Kanab. Shortly after dark we
halted for a bite to eat and a brief rest before striking for our old
storehouse, a log cabin in Jacob's corral, where we arrived about eleven
o'clock, having made about forty miles. I collected all the blankets I
could find, and, throwing them on the inside of Jacob's garden fence, I
was almost immediately asleep, and knew nothing till Jacob came along
and said a "Good-morning." My ablutions over, I went to Sister Louisa's
to breakfast with Prof. and Mrs. Thompson. The gardens were now
yielding an abundance of fresh fruits, peaches, melons, etc., and I
blessed the good management and foresight that directed the immediate
planting of these things in a Mormon settlement. It seemed as if I could
not get my fill.
[Illustration:
C. Preliminary map of a portion of the central part of the unknown
country indicated by the blank space on Map A at page 95, showing the
Kaibab Plateau, mouth of the Paria, Echo Peaks, House Rock Valley, and
the course of part of Glen Canyon and of Marble Canyon and the Grand
Canyon to the mouth of the Kanab Canyon. El Vado is at the western
intersection of the 37th parallel and the Colorado River, and Kanab is
in the upper left-hand corner of the map--just above the 37th parallel
which is the boundary between Utah and Arizona. The words "Old Spanish
Trail from Santa Fé to Los Angeles" near El Vado were added in
Washington and are incorrect. The old Spanish trail crossed at Gunnison
Crossing far north of this point, which was barely known before 1858.]
Friday the 13th, the next day, was my birthday and Mrs. Thompson, who
was always striving to do something to make our circumstances pleasant,
prepared a large peach pie with her own hands in celebration. The Major
and Jones having come in the night before, we passed most of the time
that day in a large tent eating melons, the Major acting as carver of
the fruit. When we had eaten a watermelon he would declare that he
thought muskmelon far better. We all agreed. He would cut one only to
find when we had eaten it that we had changed our minds and wanted
watermelon, which see-saw opinions we kept up till all the melons were
gone. It would be impossible for any one who had not had our canyon fare
to appreciate the exhilarating effect of this fresh fruit.
My leg, which had developed the pain coming up the Kanab Canyon, now
swelled till it was almost the same size throughout and any pressure
made an imprint as in a piece of putty. No one knew what to make of it.
I rode over to Johnson's, that person being the nearest to a doctor of
any one in the country, though the Mormons do not much believe in
medicines, and he gave me a liniment to apply. This did no good. In a
few days the swelling disappeared except where the spot of keen pain
was, and there a lump was left half as large as a man's fist, with two
small red spots in the middle of it. I now concluded that these spots
marked the bite of a tarantula that must have gotten in my blankets at
Shower-Bath Spring. Suppuration set in at the spots where the flesh
turned black and all the men said it was a bad-looking wound. They
thought I would lose my leg. I concluded to poultice it to draw out any
poison that remained, and kept bread-and-milk applied continuously.
After a while it seemed to have a tendency to heal.
We ran the base line up through Kanab and at the head of it pitched a
small observatory tent over a stone foundation on which Prof, set up a
large transit instrument for stellar observations. He got in connection,
by the telegraph, with Salt Lake City and made a series of close
observations. I began an hourly set of barometrical readings and as soon
as Clem came back he helped me to run them day and night for eight
consecutive days. Jack meanwhile was preparing for a trip to the Moki
Towns, the Major and Jones had gone off for some special work, and Andy
started with a waggon for Beaver to bring down rations. Occasional bands
of trading Navajos enlivened the days and I secured five good blankets
in exchange for old Yawger, who was now about useless for our purposes.
Prof. gave him to me to get what I could for him, and he also gave Clem
another derelict for the same purpose. On the 9th of October Jack, Andy,
and Clem, started with Jacob on his annual trip to the Mokis by way of
Lee's Lonely Dell while Jones went north to Long Valley on the head of
the Virgin, for topography. The Major on foot, with a Mormon companion
and a Pai Ute, explored from Long Valley down the narrow canyon of the
Virgin to Shunesburg, about 20 miles, a trip never before made.[37] The
canyon is about two thousand feet deep and in places only twenty or
thirty feet wide, twisting in such a way that the sky was not visible at
times, and the stream often filled it from side to side so that they had
to swim.
[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
At the Bottom near Foot of Bass Trail.]
About eleven o'clock that night Prof. came to wake me up to say that a
telegram had arrived stating that Najavos again had been raiding and had
stolen seventy head of horses from Parowan. They were supposed to be
making for El Vado and nobody in the absence of Jacob seemed to know
just what to do about it. Prof. had advised them to organise a party and
cut off the raiders, but they preferred to consult Jacob before doing
anything. Prof. now asked me if I would be willing to ride at once to
the Navajo Well where Jacob had expected to camp and notify him of the
raid, no one else in town understanding where the well was, few besides
ourselves and Jacob ever having travelled that way. I said I would go if
I could have one companion. It was a lonely journey, and besides I might
come on the Navajos before reaching the well. Charley Riggs, a splendid
fellow whom I liked exceedingly, volunteered. Filling our overcoat
pockets with cartridges, and each with a good Winchester across his
saddle, we started about 12:30 under a fine moon and a clear sky. I knew
the way perfectly, even by moonlight. We took no wrong turns, had no
stops, and made excellent time toward the Navajo Well twenty miles away.
On we went over the open country, skirting the Vermilion Cliffs on our
left.
"Neck by neck, stride by stride, never changing our place,"
but not at the headlong gallop by which they brought the news over a
first-class road to Aix, we rode steadily as fast as the ground would
permit, sometimes on a gallop, sometimes on a trot. About two o'clock,
as we neared a canyon where an old trail came down from the north which
the raiders might follow, we slowed up and advanced with caution. Dimly
we perceived what appeared to be a number of sleeping forms under the
ordinary Navajo dark-blue and white striped service blanket. Throwing
our guns up ready for action we rode ahead slowly to pass by a detour if
not discovered. We then saw that the objects were nothing but peculiar
bushes. With a feeling of sympathy for the dear Knight of La Mancha and
his worthy Sancho we spurred forward. At half-past four by the watch
dawn began to spread on the sky and we rode into the camp at the Navajo
Well. A shout and our hoofbeats had roused the sleepers. I delivered my
message to Jacob who immediately started for El Vado with Charley Riggs,
intending to add several more men to his band at the Paria settlement
which he would pass through; a route he had often before followed for a
like purpose. My leg was by no means well and it would have been
imprudent on this account for me to further lend my services. I let
Jacob have my rifle and ammunition and returned to Kanab, Jack, Andy,
and Clem going on to Lee's to wait. I reached the settlement before
noon, when George Adair and Tom Stewart started heavily armed to join
Jacob at the earliest moment. A Pai Ute later came in with a report that
a fresh party of Navajos on a trading trip had recently come across the
Colorado, and from this we concluded that the alarm was false, or that
the culprits were Utes who went off into the Dirty Devil country. Prof.
with Adams went out towards the Paria and then to the Kaibab to do some
topographic work along the north rim of the Grand Canyon and I was left
without any of our party in the village, it being deemed inadvisable for
me to do much riding or walking till my wound, which was now doing well,
had more nearly healed. I devoted my time to plotting up notes,
finishing sketches, drawings of pictographs, etc., and took my meals at
Sister Louisa's. I became much interested in the story of her
experiences which she told us from time to time, especially as she was
one of the women who had pushed a handcart across the plains. After a
few days the Major came in from a trip accompanied by several Pai Utes,
among whom was Chuarooumpeak, the young chief of the Kaibab band,
usually called Frank by the settlers and Chuar by his own people. The
Pai Utes having no "F" in their language pronounced his English name
"Brank," just as they called me "Bred." Their usual name for me was
Untokarowits, derived from the dark red colour of my hair. Frank was a
remarkably good man. He had been constantly devoted to the safety and
welfare of the whites. A most fluent speaker in his native tongue, he
would address his people with long flights of uninterrupted rhetorical
skill.
Old Patnish came in occasionally. Though he did not look particularly
dangerous his eye was keen and his bearing positive. Nobody would have
interfered with him unless prepared for a fight to the finish. One day I
rode to Johnson by the trail and learned when I got back that Patnish
had arrived at Kanab by the road, so I just missed an interview. The
term "old" Patnish signifies "that scoundrel" Patnish, but when the
people spoke of "old" Jacob the prefix was one of respect and
affection--so contrary is the meaning that can be put into three
letters. Charley Riggs and George Adair came back from El Vado saying
that no raiding Navajos had been seen, so our opinion of the false alarm
was confirmed.
[Illustration:
E. Showing results of recent re-survey of part of the Grand Canyon near
Bright Angel Creek by the Geological Survey with ample time for detail.
Compare with Map C at page 246, the south end of Kaibab Plateau.]
On the 27th of October we had the first snow of the season, which lasted
only a few hours, snow never being heavy at Kanab. The Major had planned
another journey to the Uinkaret region and we started November 2d,
taking with us three of the Kaibab band--Chuar, another called George,
or, as they pronounced it, "Judge," and Waytoots; the Major desiring to
talk to them in our camps to continue his vocabulary and the collection
of other linguistic material which he had been gathering from them and
others in and around Kanab at every opportunity. Our party proceeded to
Pipe Spring, camping half a mile below the houses and striking the next
day, Monday, November 4th, for the Wild Band Pocket. Finding no water
there the natives led on toward a spring they knew of in a low line of
cliffs. I was riding a broncho broken only a few weeks before, and at an
unexpected moment I was suddenly deemed _persona non grata_, but I kept
my seat and vanquished the beast after a vigorous circus, meeting
thereafter with no further opposition. We saw a band of twenty wild
horses spinning across the plain one behind another like a train of
railway cars, a huge stallion playing locomotive. Perhaps my broncho
felt the call of the band! Darkness dropped down on us before we could
get to the spring. We had to make a camp that was not exactly dry,
though there was no drinking water, for a drizzling rain, half snow, set
in, the snow serving to hold the accompanying rain on the surface. We
were wading in slush and it was a task to find a decent place for one's
blankets. Jones and I bunked together. His side of the bed was a slight
hollow, in consequence of which the melting slush formed under him a
chilly pool that interfered seriously with his slumbers. I happened to
be lying on a lump or ridge and kept fairly dry by never stirring the
whole night.
The rain ceased by morning and all day Tuesday we travelled toward the
Uinkaret Mountains over a comparatively level desert, but not going
rapidly, as we had a waggon. The ground having been softened by the rain
the wheels cut deeply, there being of course no road. A flock of
antelope blew by. We did not give them a second glance, as they were too
far off to be hunted. It was after dark when we arrived at the rocky
pool where we had before camped in March, which we learned now from
Chuar the natives called the Innupin (or Oonupin) Picavu, or Witch
Water-pocket. They said the locality was a favourite haunt of witches.
These were often troublesome and had to be driven away or they might
hurt one. There was plenty of wood and we were soon comfortable, with a
keen November wind to emphasise our blessings. The water in the pocket
was clear and pure, but it was full of small "wigglers." We tried to dip
up a pail which should be free from them. The Major, seeing our efforts,
took a cup and without looking drank it down with the nonchalant remark,
"I haven't seen any wigglers." The Pai Utes had killed some rabbits,
which they now skinned and cooked. I say cooked, but perhaps I should
say warmed. Dexterously stripping off the skins they slit open the
abdomen, removed the entrails, and, after squeezing out the contents by
drawing between thumb and fingers, they replaced the interminable string
in the cavity, closing the aperture with the ears, and stowed the
carcass in the hot ashes for a few minutes. Then they ate the whole
thing with complete satisfaction. We preferred to fry ours, without the
entrails, in a pan with bacon fat. Frequently the Major gave me little
talks on science, as he was much interested in my future career, and by
the fire this evening he instructed me in some of the fundamental
principles of natural philosophy. Chuar having had one of his men remove
his shoes, which were heavy "Mericats" ones, was reclining in a princely
way smoking a cigarette on a bank near the fire. Suddenly he rose to his
feet, intently listening and peering anxiously out through the
enveloping gloom of the piñons and cedars. I asked him what he heard.
"Oonupits," he whispered solemnly, never ceasing his watchful gaze. Then
cautiously aiming his long muzzle-loading rifle in the direction, he
fired a shot and seemed satisfied that the intruder was driven away or
destroyed. He described the noise of the Oonupits as a whistling sound.
He and his men had a habit of waking in the night in our various camps
and singing, first one beginning very low, the others joining in one by
one, and increasing the power as they did so till all were singing in
full voice. This woke us up. We threw things at them, but with no
effect. "What do you do it for?" said I to Chuar. "To drive away the
Oonupits," he answered.[38]
In the morning, November 6th, the Major, Prof. and I went off
reconnoitring and did not get back to camp till after dark, when we
found there a short, fat, Uinkaret whom Chuar introduced as
Teemaroomtekai, chief. In the settlements when he ventured to go there
he was known as Watermelon, according to Frank Hamblin, who was with us.
Teemaroomtekai had a companion and next day Prof. and the Major climbed
Mt. Trumbull with them. Wishing to have a talk with the Shewits we moved
on the 9th around to Oak Spring, near which some of them were encamped
with their kinsmen the Uinkarets. I was interested to see what the
slayers of the Howlands and Dunn looked like. Except for a wilder, more
defiant aspect, they differed little from other Pai Utes. Their country
being so isolated and unvisited they were surly and independent. The
Uinkarets on the other hand were rather genial, more like the Kaivavit
band. The Major traded for bags of food seeds, baskets, spoons made from
mountain sheep's horns, balls of compressed cactus fruit from which the
juice had been extracted for a kind of wine, rolls of oose-apple pulp,
which they ate like bread, etc., all for the Smithsonian Institution.
With the Shewits the Major and Prof. had a conference. Prof. wished to
make a reconnaissance through their region and explained to them what he
wanted to do. An agreement was reached by which he was to be permitted
without molestation of any kind to go anywhere and everywhere with two
Shewits for guides and one of our party as cook and helper, in order
that he could tell "Washington" about the country. The helper, however,
was to stick to the trail and remain in camp, so that he would know as
little as possible, and should not tell that little to the "Mormoni"
whom the Shewits disliked. Nathan Adams, a Mormon, was the man to
accompany Prof. and he did not enjoy the prospect at all. On Monday,
November 11th, the Major, Prof., and Jones climbed Mount Logan for more
data and took a general survey of the country, while I went out on foot,
climbed, measured and located eight large cinder-cones. When they came
down the Major said he had seen a fine, isolated mountain to the west
which he had called after me, and I naturally felt much pleased with the
honour of having my name stamped on the map.
The next day, November 12th, our party divided into three. Frank Hamblin
went out to St. George with the waggon after rations; Prof. with Nathan
Adams, one Shewits, named Paantung, and our guide "Judge," who may have
been a Shewits also for all we could tell, prepared for the entrance
into Shewits land, while the Major, Jones, and I proceeded to the foot
of the Toroweap, to a water-pocket near the edge of the Grand Canyon
called by the Uinkarets Teram Picavu. Chuar and Waytoots went back to
Kanab and we hired Uinkarets to carry our goods nine miles down to the
pocket, descending 1200 feet at one point over rough lava. After some
work at the canyon we went back to the spring on the 14th, the Uinkarets
again acting as our pack-horses. We had no salt left by this time and
very little food, but we killed some rabbits and cooked them on hot
coals, the adhering ashes making a substitute for salt. I reached the
spring first and found little, round, beaming, Teemaroomtekai, who knew
our plans, already there with a great big "Mericats" fire to welcome us,
as well as a large pile of wood for feeding it. The Major got in soon
after, but Jones failed to come at all, which worried us. Before we
could go in search of him in the morning he arrived. His horse had given
out, compelling him to stay where he was all night. We had travelled
hard up and down all kinds of hills, canyons, and mountains, with seldom
a trail, and it was wearing on the animals living only on bunch grass.
[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
From North Side near Foot of Toroweap Valley, Uinkaret District.
Photograph by J. K. Hillers.]
I continued measuring and locating the oonagaritchets or cinder-cones,
of which there were more than sixty, and got in four more on the 15th.
Then the Major decided to move to another water-pocket the Uinkarets
told about, farther east across the lava, a pocket they called Tiravu
Picavu or Pocket-of-the-Plain. It was on the edge of the basaltic table
overlooking what they termed the Wonsits Tiravu or Antelope Plain. They
said there was no water now, but as one declared there was a little we
decided to go. While the Major followed a waggon-track leading to or
from St. George, wishing to make some special observations along it and
expecting to meet and stop Frank with the waggon now due, Jones and I
struck across on the moccasin trail, leaving our goods to be brought on
by the Uinkaret packers. At sunset we rounded a clump of cinder-cones
studding a black, barren waste. Far away across the Wonsits Tiravu rose
the red cliff land up and up to the eastern sky; behind was the great
bulk of Trumbull, together with scores of the smooth, verdureless heaps
of volcanic cinders. Everywhere near was the desert of basalt, with
nothing but the faint trail to point the way and the night slowly
enwrapping us. On we urged our stumbling, weary beasts, their iron
clinking on the metallic rocks; on till the thick blackness circled us
like a wall. Then we halted and built a little brush fire, thinking to
stay till dawn. At the instant a weird cry from far back fell leaden on
the strangely heavy winter air. Our packers saw where we were and
presently came to us. They were in a rage, pitching along in the dark
under their heavy loads. They were cold, tired, famished, for the way
had been long, the packs heavy. Frost was in the wind. They now
pretended not to know where the end was. I thought this was to see what
we would say or do. We did not care; we said and did nothing with all
the nonchalance born of the feeling that the further we went the worse
it was. Then one remembered. The pocket was near and he struck out for
it, the rest following as best we could through the thick night, the
guide occasionally lighting a torch of grass. After a quarter of a mile
he stopped in the bottom of a deep basaltic gulch. Here was the place.
The Uinkarets threw down their loads and squatted glum and silent. From
the hill Jones and I scraped together an armful of brush and got a small
fire started in the bottom of the desolate hollow. At the upper end of
it on a sort of bench eight feet wide was a depression covered with ice
three or four inches thick. With some difficulty pounding a hole through
this we found beneath a small amount of thick, slimy water, full of
green scum. We drank some, the Uinkarets drank some, but we could not
see well enough to get any out for the animals. We tied them to rocks to
prevent them from leaving in the night. The Indians thawed a little
under the influence of the fire, but they would barely speak when spoken
to. They skinned a wildcat they had killed on the way and boiled the red
meat briefly in our kettle and ate it like hungry wolves, while Jones
and I, all the time wondering what had become of the Major, made a light
lunch on some of our scanty supply. Then we climbed the hill, and
getting together a little more brush Jones sat keeping a signal fire
going as long as he had fuel. But the wind was keen and strong, wood
limited, and he gave it up. Spreading our blankets we went to sleep.
Morning came clear and sharp. I took my glasses and went up to scan the
country for some sign of the Major or our waggon and I rejoiced to
discover him not a quarter of a mile distant. He had headed for the
fire, and losing it kept on by a star till he thought he was near us,
when he made a small fire of his own, tied his mule, and waited for day.
We had a bite together and thawed out some of the ice in our kettle,
providing a diminutive drink for each horse; then leaving the natives in
charge of the baggage we rode down into the plain to find our waggon,
taking along our last bit of bread for lunch. In about ten miles we came
to it and Frank Hamblin gave us the latest news, "Grant elected and
Boston burned." After a lunch we turned back, making a camp at the foot
of the basalt, thawing out more ice for the animals, and giving the
Indians some food. About two o'clock the Major and I rode over to the
Innupin Picavu while Jones and the waggon went around, as it could not
cross the basalt. We arrived at seven, while the waggon did not come
till half past eleven, when we prepared a good supper for all hands,
turning in about three in the morning. Not a man awoke before ten,
though the strong sun fell on our faces. The animals were used up and we
did what we could on foot that day. I climbed four more cinder-cones,
reaching camp at dark. Every day I climbed several of the cones, but
some were so far away that I had to make a special camp from which to
operate. The waggon was loaded with ice from the water-pocket, and a
supply of provisions, and driven about seven miles to a basaltic gulch,
in a well-wooded locality on the edge of a treeless valley, where the
load was dropped and I was left with my horse. Before dark I gathered a
lot of wood, made a good fire, and melted some of the ice that formed my
water supply, in a brass kettle, watering my horse, which I then
tethered with a long rope where there was good grass. I did not intend
to waste time hunting my mount in the morning. After supper I spread my
blankets near the fire and by the light of a bright piñon blaze I began
to read _Great Expectations_, a paper edition with the last leaves gone
having gotten into camp. As I read Pip's interview in the twilight with
the convict on the dreary marshes I was in deep sympathy with the
desperate hunger of the terrible man, and when Mrs. Joe buttered the end
of the loaf and carved off the slices I myself was hungry enough to cook
supper over again. Butter had now been absent from my bill of fare, with
a few exceptions, for nearly two years. I was careful to place my fire
where it would be well screened and not easily seen from a distance. I
did not care to have any Shewits or even Uinkarets visit me and I hoped
they were all in their own camps, though I sometimes had a feeling that
one might be watching from the shadows of the great basaltic rocks.
This, of course, was due to the circumstances and not to any
probability, though I kept my Winchester near my hand. When I again got
back to the main camp the Major told me that the first night of my
absence several of the natives came in and, not seeing me around,
inquired my whereabouts. He gave them an evasive answer, believing that
it was quite as well not to apprise them of the situation.
The following day, Thursday, November 21st, I covered a wide territory,
climbing five cinder-cones a great distance apart and each quite high.
Several times I crossed recent moccasin tracks, but met no natives, and
at nightfall I was still a long way from my camp. When the darkness
became so dense that I could not see even faint outlines I took a star
for guidance till clouds blotted it out. Then I was completely adrift in
a sea of mountains. I could not tell one direction from another.
Throwing the reins on the broncho's neck I sat back in my saddle to see
what would come of it. Slowly, cautiously the animal plodded over
broken, rocky ground succeeded by smoother footing, as I could tell by
the motion, and in about an hour suddenly and quietly halted. I
perceived that I was in the midst of cedars. A light spot appeared
almost beneath. Dismounting I dropped to my hands and knees and found
that it was the ashes of my fire. The broncho, the same that had tried
to buck me off a few days before, had come back to the camp of a single
night, about the best example of horse sense that I ever experienced.
After another comfortable evening with Dickens I was prepared to go on
with my special task, and finished it in this place by climbing the
group of cones near the Tiravu Picavu the next day. About two in the
afternoon I got back to my camp with a very tired mount, but I loaded
all my traps on my saddle, the ice being almost exhausted, and started
to find a new locality where I was to meet the Major. My pack was high,
my broncho tired. While crossing a small open valley near sunset the
poor beast suddenly lay down with me. There being no water anywhere in
that locality, I was forced to use some brutality to get the animal up.
Without further incident I came to the place agreed on and found the
Major there in advance. We camped at the spot and the next day,
Saturday, November 23d, I climbed five more cones, reaching the camp at
sunset. Sunday the Major went on with his particular task while I added
six more of the cones to my list, getting back to the side camp late in
the day. The Major was to go in by himself when he was ready, so I took
all the outfit on my horse again, reached the Oak Spring trail at
sunset, and the main camp two hours after dark, glad enough to drop the
load of pails, bags, blankets, etc., in which my broncho sympathised
more deeply than could be expressed.
[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.
Storm Effect from South Rim.]
Monday morning, November 25th, we turned our faces toward Kanab, and I
climbed four more cones on the way out, overtaking the waggon about an
hour after dark. The night was very cold and I was ready to enjoy the
warmth of a fire by the time I reached the camp. In the morning we had a
visit from Lieutenant Dinwiddie of Lieut. Wheeler's survey. I rode over
to the cinder-cone region again and climbed the remaining ones, seven or
eight, reaching camp after dark, the days being very short at this time
of year. The camp had been moved nearer to the spring in the low line of
cliffs where we had halted coming out and the Major with his usual
original ideas had caused the waggon to be lowered by ropes into a deep
gulch. He had estimated that it was possible to go out through the
cliffs that way instead of going all the way around. His geological
knowledge did not lead him astray. There was no trouble whatever in
taking the waggon up the gulch, and when we emerged we were many miles
on the road to Pipe Spring, where the Major and I arrived in advance of
the others. We had dinner and he then went on alone to Kanab, where the
whole party arrived the next day--Thanksgiving Day. Prof. had come in on
the 25th by way of St. George, having had a successful tour through the
Shewits region, all agreements on both sides having been carried out to
the letter. He had been two weeks in the wild country and Adams declared
that to him the time was years, his only comfort being that he was
wearing his "endowment garment," a sure protection from all evil. Prof.
had climbed Mount Dellenbaugh, though the Shewits objected to Adams's
going up and he remained on the trail. It was found to be a basaltic
peak 6650 feet above sea-level, but only 1200 or 1500 above its base. On
the summit were the ruins of a Shinumo building circular in shape,
twenty feet in diameter, with walls remaining about two feet high. It
was not far from the base of this mountain that the Howlands and Dunn
were killed, Paantung, Prof.'s guide, saying it was done by some "no
sense" Shewits. Prof. was of the opinion that the guide had been of the
party himself.
All was preparation in our camp for the departure of the Major for Salt
Lake and Washington. I had expected to go east at this time also, but
both the Major and Prof. being desirous of having me remain a while
longer, to help finish up the preliminary map, I agreed to do so and on
the 30th of November all the original party set out but Prof., Mrs.
Thompson, and myself. A new member, John Renshawe, had arrived a few
days before to assist at the topography. When the party had been gone
some time it was discovered that they had forgotten several things. I
took a horse and rode over with the articles to the camp they intended
to make at Johnson, where I remained till morning. The Major was so
eager to get an early start that he had all hands up long before
sunrise. When breakfast was eaten we had to sit by the fire three
quarters of an hour before there was light enough for the men to trail
the horses. Then I said good-bye; they went on and I went back. Jones
and Andy I never saw again.
Prof. concluded to make winter headquarters in Kanab and a lot was
rented for the purpose. On December 3d, we put up a large tent in one
corner, with two small ones for rations and saddles. The next day we put
up one in the other corner for Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, and at the back
of the lot we arranged a corral for the horses or mules we might want to
catch. The large tents were floored with pine boards and along the sides
heavy cedar boughs were placed in crotches around which the guy ropes
were passed before staking. The tents thus were dry inside and could not
blow down. A conical iron stove on a boxing of earth heated the large
tent like a furnace. In the middle of the general tent we placed a long
drafting-table and were ready for work. Another tent, half boards, was
erected near ours for kitchen and dining-room, and Riley, who had turned
up again, hired as cook and master of this structure. Riley, who had
spent his whole life in camp and saddle, was the best frontier or camp
cook I ever saw. Scrupulously clean to the last detail of his pots and
pans, he knew how to make to perfection all manner of eatables possible
under the circumstances. Prof. arranged for a supply of potatoes,
butter, meats, and everything within reason, so we lived very well, with
an occasional dash of Dixie wine to add zest, while on Christmas Day
Riley prepared a special feast. Though the sky was sombre the town was
merry and there was a dance in the school-house, but I did not attend.
Rainy weather set in on the 26th, and the old year welcomed the new in a
steady downpour, making January 1, 1873, rather a dismal holiday. Even
the mail which arrived this day was soaked. Toward evening the skies
lifted somewhat and a four-horse waggon appeared, or rather two mules
and two horses on a common freighting waggon, in which Lyman Hamblin and
two others were playing, as nearly in unison as possible, a fiddle, a
drum, and a fife. While we were admiring this feat we heard Jack's
hearty shout and saw our waggon returning under his charge from Salt
Lake with supplies, with a cook stove for our kitchen, and with a new
suit of clothes for me accompanied by the compliments of Prof. and the
Major.
Our camp in Kanab was now as complete and comfortable as any one might
wish, and our work of preparing the map went forward rapidly. As soon as
it could be finished I was to take it to Salt Lake, and send it by
express to the Major in Washington, to show Congress what we had been
doing and what a remarkable region it was that we had been
investigating. In the evenings we visited our friends in the settlement
or they visited us, or we read what books, papers, and magazines we
could get hold of. John and I also amused ourselves by writing down all
the songs that were sung around camp, to which I added a composition of
my own to the tune of _Farewell to the Star Spangled Banner_, an
abandoned rebel one. These words ran:
Oh, boys, you remember the wild Colorado,
Its rapids and its rocks will trouble us no more,
etc., with a mention in the various stanzas of each member of the party
and his characteristics. The horses became high-spirited with nothing to
do and plenty of good feed. One of our amusements was to corral several,
and then, putting saddles on the most prancing specimens, mount and ride
down on the plain, the horse running at top speed, with the impression
that he was full master of the situation and expecting us to try to stop
him. Instead we enjoyed the exhilaration of it, and let the charger
alone till after a couple of miles he concluded the fun was all on our
side and took a more moderate gait of his own accord. There were several
horse races also, and the days flew by. On February 3d I finished
plotting the river down to the Kanab Canyon, and as if to emphasise this
point a snow-storm set in. By the 5th the snow was five inches deep, and
we had word that the snow on the divide to the north over the
culmination of the various lines of cliffs, where I would have to pass
to go to Salt Lake, was very heavy. On the 7th the mail rider failed to
get through. We learned also that an epizoötic had come to Utah and many
horses were laid up by it, crippling the stage lines. It had been
planned that I should go north with our own horses till I could connect
with some stage line, and then take that for the remainder of the
distance to the Utah Southern Railway, which then had been extended
south from Salt Lake as far as Lehi.
On the 16th of February, which was Sunday, I put the last touches on the
map, drawn from the original on a large sheet of tracing cloth, rolled
it carefully up, and placed it in a long tin tube we had ordered from
the local tinsmith. This I carried on my back, as I did not mean to be
separated from it a minute till I gave it into the hands of Wells, Fargo
& Co.'s express in Salt Lake. Jack was to go with me. Saying a last
good-bye to Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, to John, and to some of my Kanab
friends who came to see the start, we left a little after noon, with one
pack on a broncho mule, Jack riding a mule and I a favourite horse of
mine called by the unusual name of Billy. The pack-mule always had to be
blindfolded before we could handle him, and if the blind should
accidentally slip off there was an instantaneous convulsion which had a
most disrupting effect. Going straight up the canyon, we crossed over
finally into Long Valley, and were on the headwaters of the Virgin. At
sunset we came to a little settlement called Mt. Carmel, but continued
to Glendale, where we arrived about half-past seven, having come in all
thirty miles. At the bishop's house we were welcomed and there got some
supper, putting our three animals in his corral. We did not care to
sleep in the house, choosing for our resting-place the last remains of a
haystack, where we spread our blankets, covering the whole with a
paulin, as the sky looked threatening. I never slept more comfortably in
my life, except that I was half-aroused in the stillness by water
trickling down my neck. Half-asleep we pulled the canvas clear up over
our heads and were troubled no more. When we awoke in the morning a
heaviness on top of us we knew meant snow. We were covered by a full
foot of it, soft and dry. Valley, mountain, everything was a solid
expanse of white, the only dark spot being our red blankets as we threw
back the paulin. The sky was grey and sullen. More snow was in the air.
As soon as breakfast was eaten we slung our pack, saddled, and rode up
the valley, following as well as we could the directions given by the
bishop. Neither Jack nor I had been this way before. We could see the
slight depression in the surface of the snow which indicated a
waggon-rut beneath, and by that token continued up the ever-narrowing
valley; the slopes sprinkled by large pine trees. Snow fell thickly. It
was not always easy to see our way, but we went on. At a certain point
we were to turn to the left up a side gulch, following it till we came
to the divide, some eight thousand or nine thousand feet above
sea-level, where we expected to go down to the head of the Sevier
Valley, where Jack had before been by another route. At the gulch we
deemed the correct one, no road or trail being visible, we turned late
in the afternoon to the left and rapidly mounted higher, with the fresh
snow growing correspondingly deeper till it was about two feet on the
level. The going was slow and hard, the sky still dropping heavy flakes
upon us. About five o'clock we found ourselves on the summit of a high
bald knob topping the world. In every direction through the snow-mist
similar bald knobs could be seen looming against the darkening sky. The
old drifts were so deep that where a horse broke through the crust he
went down to the end of his leg. This excited them, and they plunged
wildly. I finally got them all three still and quiet, while Jack scanned
the outlook intently. "See any landmark, Jack?" said I. "Not a damned
thing I ever saw before!" answered Jack. At brief intervals the falling
snow would cease, and we could see more clearly, except that the
impending night began to cast over all a general obscurity.
There was a deep valley beyond to the right. While it was not possible
to tell directions we felt that our course must lie there, and I led the
way down a long treeless slope, breaking a path as well as I could, my
horse following behind; the others urged on by Jack from the rear. The
snow became shallower near the bottom. We mounted and I rode in the
direction that Jack thought we ought to take to come to the road down
the Sevier where he had before travelled. We crossed the valley in doing
this, but at one point in the very bottom my horse wanted to turn to the
left, which would have taken us down the deepening valley. I prevented
his turning and we continued up a gulch a mile or two, where it narrowed
till we could barely proceed. Jack then climbed up on a cliff and
disappeared, endeavouring to see some familiar object, the falling snow
having at last stopped. I stood in my tracks with the three animals and
waited so long I began to be afraid that Jack had met with an accident.
Just then I heard him descending. It was nearly dark. He could not see
any sign of the region he had been in before. Snow and darkness puzzle
one even in a familiar country. We then went back to the valley where
the horse had wished to turn and followed it down, now believing that it
might be the right way after all, for Billy had been over the road
several times. Another example of horse sense, which seems to prove that
horses know more than we think they do. We had expected to reach Asa's
ranch before night and had not brought an axe, in consequence. Keeping
down the valley till we came to a group of cedars, some of which were
dead, and a tall pine tree, we camped, pulling branches from the cedars
and bark from the pine for a fire, which quickly melted its way down to
the ground, leaving a convenient seat all round about twenty inches
high, upon which we laid blankets to sit on. Our pack contained enough
food for supper; breakfast would have to take care of itself. We also
had some grain, which we fed to the hungry animals and tied them under
the cedars, where they were protected in a measure from the sharp wind
though they were standing in deep snow. For ourselves we cut twigs from
the green cedars and made a thick mattress on the snow with them. Our
blankets on top of these made a bed fit for a king. The storm cleared
entirely; a brilliant moon shone over all, causing the falling frost in
the air to scintillate like diamonds.
In the morning, Tuesday, February 18th, we packed up at once, having
nothing left to eat, and proceeded down the valley wondering if we were
on the right road or not. The sky arched over with that deep tone that
is almost black in winter in high altitudes, and the sun fell in a
dazzling sheet upon the wide range of unbroken white. The surface was
like a mirror; the eyes closed against the intense light instinctively.
As we went on northwards and downwards a faint, double, continuous
hollow began to appear on the snow--a waggon-track at the bottom. It
became more and more distinct and we then felt sure that we were on the
right road, though we were not positive till near noon when, approaching
a rocky point, we suddenly heard the clear ring of an axe on the
metallic air. A few moments later turning this we saw a large, swift
stream flowing clear between snowy banks, and beyond a log cabin with
blue smoke rising from the immense stone chimney. In front was a man
chopping wood. His dog was barking. It was a welcome, a beautiful
picture of frontier comfort. It was Asa's ranch. Asa was one of the men
who helped the Major on his arrival at the mouth of the Virgin in 1869,
now having changed his residence to this place. We were soon made
welcome in the single large room of the cabin where all the family were,
and while the horses were having a good feed an equally good one for us
was prepared by Mrs. Asa on the fire burning snugly in the great
chimney. Never did fried ham, boiled eggs, and hot coffee do better
service. We could not have been more cordially received if these Mormons
had been our own relatives.
We rested there till about three o'clock, when we bade them all good-bye
and rode on down the valley, the snow continually lessening in depth,
till, when we reached the much lower altitude of Panguitch at sunset,
twenty-six miles from our night's camp, there were only three or four
inches and the temperature was not nearly so low, though still very
cold. According to custom we applied to the bishop for accomodation for
ourselves and our stock and were again cordially received. We were
quickly made comfortable before a bright fire on the hearth which
illumed the whole room. While the good wife got supper, the bishop, an
exceedingly pleasant man, brought out some Dixie wine he had recently
received. He poured us out each a large goblet and took one himself.
After a hearty supper Jack and I put down our blankets on the bishop's
haystack and knew nothing more till sunrise. Leaving Panguitch we rode
on down the Sevier, crossing it frequently, and made about forty miles,
passing through Sevier Canyon and Circle Valley, where there were a
number of deserted houses, and arrived for night at the ranch of a
Gentile named Van Buren. By this time my eyes, which had been inflamed
by the strong glare of the sun, began to feel as if they were full of
sand, and presently I became aware that I was afflicted with that
painful malady snowblindness. I could barely see, the pain in both eyes
was extreme, and a river of tears poured forth continually. Other men
whom we heard of as we went on were blinded worse than I. All I could
do, having no goggles, was to keep my hat pulled down and cut off the
glare as much as possible.[39] At Marysvale the stage had been
abandoned. We kept on, finding as we advanced that all the stages were
put out of business by the epizoötic. There was nothing for Jack to do
but to go on with me to Nephi.
In riding through one village I saw a sign on the closed door of a store
just off the road and my curiosity led me to ride up close enough to
read it. I did not linger. The words I saw were "SMALL POX." That night
we reached Nephi under the shadow of the superb Mount Nebo, where I
tried again for a stage so that Jack could return. No stage arrived and
the following morning we rode on northward over very muddy roads,
finally reaching Spanish Fork, where a fresh snow-storm covered the
country about a foot, making travelling still more difficult. Another
day's journey put us as far as American Fork, only three miles from the
end of the railway, a place called Lehi, for which we made a very early
start the next day, Wednesday, February 25th, but when we arrived there
through the mud and slush the train had taken its departure. Our pack
mule was now very lame and travelled with difficulty, but we continued
on toward Salt Lake. The train had become stalled in the immense
snowdrifts at the Point-of-the-Mountain and there we overtook it. I was
soon on board with my tin case and other baggage, but it was a
considerable time before the gang of men and a snow plough extricated
the train. About five o'clock we ran into the town. I went to the Walker
House, then the best hotel, and that night slept in a real room and a
real bed for the first time in nearly two years, but I opened the
windows as wide as they would go. In the morning I sent off the map and
then turned my attention to seeing the Mormon capital. Cap. was now
living there and it was Fennemore's home. I also found Bonnemort and
MacEntee in town, and Jack came on up the remaining short distance in
order to take a fresh start for Kanab.
Nearly forty years have slipped away since the events chronicled in this
volume. Never was there a more faithful, resolute band of explorers than
ours. Many years afterward Prof. said in a letter to me speaking of the
men of the Second Powell Expedition, "I have never seen since such zeal
and courage displayed." From out the dark chasm of eternity comes the
hail, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai!" and already many of that little company
have crossed to Killiloo. The Major and Prof. repose in the sacred
limits of Arlington. Strew their graves with roses and forget them not.
They did a great work in solving the last geographical problem of the
United States.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 35: Professor Thompson declared to me not long before his
death that the river was accurate as far as Catastrophe Rapid, (about
where longitude 113.39 intersects the river) but from there to the
Virgin it might need some corrections.]
[Footnote 36: Some men from Kanab afterwards came in, sawed one in two
and made it shorter, and then tried to go up the canyon by towing. They
did not get far, and the boat was abandoned. The floods then carried
both down to destruction.]
[Footnote 37: A description of this journey ascribed to September, 1870,
occurs at page 108, _et seq._, in Powell's report on the _Exploration of
the Colorado River of the West_, 1875.]
[Footnote 38: Oonupits or Innupits is the singular, Innupin the plural.
It may be translated witch, elf, or goblin, with evil tendencies. On the
other hand they did not fear a spirit. When on the Kaibab in July with
Chuar and several other Indians, Prof. while riding along heard a cry
something like an Indian halloo. "After we got into camp," he said in
his diary: "Chuar asked George Adair what he called that which lived
after the body died. George replied, 'A spirit.' 'Well,' said Chuar,
'that was what hallooed in the forest to-day. It was the spirit of a
dead Indian. I have often heard it. Sometimes it is near, sometimes far
away. When I was here with Beaman I heard it call near me. I answered,
telling it to come to me. It did not come nor reply, and I felt very
much ashamed to think I had called.'"]
[Footnote 39: For travelling across snow one should always be provided
with smoked goggles. Failing to have them, lines of charcoal should be
drawn below the eyes or a scarf tied so as to break the glare.]
INDEX
A
Adair, George, 153, 241
Adams, Nathan, 241, 253;
his endowment garment, 259
Agua Grande, Navajo chief, 147
Aigles, Tirtaan, slogan, 75, 267
Alcove Brook, 47
Altitude of Colorado River above sea, Black's Fork, 15;
Junction Green and Grand, 114;
Paria, 151, 217;
Grand Wash, 217;
Little Colorado, 223;
Kanab Canyon, 241
American Fork, 266
Amerind, viii.
Andy, _see_ Hattan
Aquarius Plateau, 200, 202
Arlington, Powell and Thompson buried there, 267
Arms, kind used, 12
Asa, ranch, 264, 265;
assisted Powell, 265
Ashley, Wm. H., through Red Canyon, 2, 28, 95;
name on rocks, 28
Ashley Falls, 26;
portage at, 27
Ashtishkal, Navajo chief, 177
Aspen Lakes, 201
Averett, Elijah, grave of, 197
Azure Cliffs, 99
B
Baird, Professor Spencer, vi.
Bangs, Mount, climbed, 194
Barbenceta, principal chief of the Navajos, 168
Base line, 166, 173, 174
Basor, teamster, 68
Beadle, J. H., 215;
under name of Hanson, 215
Beaman, E. O., place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
leaves party, 179;
passes Paria on way to Moki Towns, 216;
up from Kanab Canyon to Surprise Valley, 241
Beaver, ground, 77;
shoot one, 78;
steak cooked, 78;
soup, 78
Berry's Spring, 188;
arrive at, 191
Berthoud and Bridger lay out waggon road, 67
Best Expedition, place of starting, 95
Big Boulder Creek, 202
Bishop, Francis Marion (Cap.), place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
leaves party, 180
Bishop's Creek, 54
Bison, pictographs, 61;
range on Green River, 61
Black Rock Canyon, 193
Black's Fork, 15
Boats of the Second Powell Expedition, the, 4;
names of, 4;
described, 5, 6;
method of packing, 8;
order of going, 11;
crews of, 11;
no iron on keels, 14;
built to float when full of water, 25;
reassignment of crews, 136, 215;
_Cañonita_ cached, 135;
launched again, 209;
crew for, 209;
_Dean_ cached, 154;
_Nellie Powell_ cached, 154;
_Dean_ discovered by Beadle, 215;
_Nellie Powell_ abandoned, 215;
_Cañonita_ and _Dean_ abandoned, 244
Bonito Bend, 111
Bonnemort, John, 143;
leaves party, 179;
in Salt Lake City, 267
Boston burned, news of, received, 256
Bow-knot Bend, 108
Bread, kind used, 4
Bridger and Berthoud lay out waggon road, 67
Bridger, Jim, 95
Brigham Young, 170, 185
Bright Angel Creek, arrive at mouth of, 232;
why so named, 232
Brown expedition, place of starting, 95
Brown's Hole, name changed to Brown's Park, 18, 30;
arrive at, 30
Brush Creek, 54
Buckskin Mountain (Kaibab Plateau), 159
Buenaventura, Rio San, Escalante's name for Green River, 67
Buffalo _Express_, letters from F. S. Dellenbaugh to, vii.
Butte of the Cross, 110
C
Campbell, Richard, knew of ford El Vado de los Padres, 96
Camp moved to the Gap, 171
_Cañonita_, left behind, 135;
reached overland, 209
Canyon of Desolation, enter it, 77;
character and height of walls, 80, 84, 85;
length of, 91
Canyon of Lodore, enter it, 34;
declivity of, 43;
length of, 48;
fall of, 48
Canyons, for list of, with heights of walls, lengths, etc.,
see _The Romance of the Colorado River_, Appendix
Canyons not dark in daytime, 25
Cap., _see_ Bishop
Capsize, of the _Cañonita_, 23;
of the _Dean_, 235
Carleton, companion of Beaman, 216
Carson, Kit, 95
Cascade Creek, 43, 202
Cascades of rain, 105, 106, 132
Cataract Canyon, declivity compared, 43;
beginning of, 115;
height of walls, 116, 122, 126, 128, 129;
we enter it, 118;
declivity in, 118;
boulders rolled by current, 118;
width of river, 119;
boat runs rapid alone, 121;
stones rocked by current, 127;
length of, 132;
end of, 132;
number of rapids, 132
Cataract Creek, 96, 202
Catastrophe Rapid, vi., 242, 243
Caves once occupied, 132
Chandler Falls, 87;
Creek, 87
Chicago, burning of, first news, 157
Chicago _Tribune_, letters from Clement Powell to, v.
Chief Douglas, Major and Mrs. Powell winter near his camp, 172
Chocolate Cliffs, 166
Chuarooumpeak, chief of Kaibab band of Pai Utes, 250;
shoots at Oonupits, 252;
singing, 252;
hears spirit call, 253;
goes back to Kanab, 254
Circle Valley, pass through it, 266
Clarkson, Mormon settlement, 197
Clear or Spring Creek (Badger Creek), 158
Clem, _see_ Powell
Clemente, Rio San, Escalante's name for White River, 67
Cliff-of-the-Harp named, 43
Coal Canyon, 91
Colob Plateau, 191
Colorado, from, into Utah, 56
Colorado River, accuracy of plat of course, vi., vii., 243;
upper continuation of, 1;
white salmon, 98;
actual beginning of, 115;
excessive high water, 244
Compass Creek, 24
Condition of party at end of first season's river work, 145
Course of the Colorado River, accuracy of, vi., vii., 243
Craggy Canyon, 57
Crater, recent, in Uinkaret country, 188
Creek, Sentinel, 149
Crescent Creek, 209
Crossing of the Fathers, the, _see_ El Vado de los Padres
D
Dance, Mormon, 173
Davy Crockett, Fort, 30
_Dean_, the _Emma_, cached for the winter, 154;
discovered by J. H. Beadle, 215
Deer, game, etc., 26
Dellenbaugh, Butte, 102, 104;
Mount, named, 254;
Thompson climbs it, 259
Dellenbaugh, F. S., joins party, 3;
position in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
letters from, to Buffalo _Express_, vii.
De Motte, Professor, 213
Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway, 119
Denver and Rio Grande Railway crossing of Green River, 95
Denver to Salt Lake, waggon road _via_ Golden and Provo,
and Robideau Crossing of Green River, 67
Descent, in feet of Green-Colorado River, from Union Pacific
Railway to Black's Fork, 15;
to Flaming Gorge, 17;
in Red Canyon, 33;
in Lodore, 48;
in Whirlpool, 56;
to the mouth of the Uinta, 71;
from Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
from the Union Pacific to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
from Gunnison Crossing to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
from Union Pacific to mouth of Grand River, 114;
from mouth of Grand River to Dirty Devil, 134;
from Union Pacific to Dirty Devil (Frémont), 135;
from Union Pacific to Paria (Lee Ferry), 151;
from Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
from Little Colorado to Grand Wash, 223;
from Little Colorado to Kanab, 241;
from Paria to Kanab, 241
Desolation, Canyon of, enter it, 77;
perforations in walls of, 82;
width of river in, 83, 89;
height of walls, 84, 85;
natural arches in, 87, 88;
end of, 91;
length of, 91
Diamond Butte, how named, 192
Diamond Creek mouth astronomically determined, 95
Diary, of Professor Thompson, vii.;
of John F. Steward, vii.;
of F. S. Dellenbaugh, vii.;
of Jack Summer, 7
Dinwiddie, Lieut., 258
Dirty Devil Mountains, _see_ Unknown Mountains
Dirty Devil (Frémont) River, viii.;
point of junction with Colorado, 3;
failure to get to it overland, 70, 99;
arrive at mouth by river, 133;
overland trip to, 195;
on head of, according to Dodds, 199;
mistake discovered, 199, 200;
reach mouth of, overland, 209
Disaster Falls, 39;
dinner from wreckage of _No-name_, 40;
fall of river at, 42
Distance, from Union Pacific Railway to Gate of Lodore, 33;
to Echo Park, 48;
to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
to Dirty Devil, 135;
Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
Little Colorado to Kanab Canyon, 241;
Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93.
_See also_ Appendix, _Romance of the Colorado River_
Dixie, name for Virgin Valley, 164
Dodds, Captain Pardyn, fails to reach Dirty Devil River, 70;
meet him at El Vado, 143
Dog, Dandie Dinmont, of Mrs. Thompson, 166, 195
Douglas Boy, first meeting with, 64;
comes to mouth of Uinta, 70;
an eloper, 71;
farewell to, 76
Dummy and his prophecy, 9
Dunn, William H., vi.;
name carved in Music Temple, 141;
killed by Shewits, 141, 259
Dunn's Cliff, 43
Dutch oven, 4
Dutton, Major, vii.
E
Echo, Cliff, 49;
Park, 49;
Rock, 53;
Peaks, how named, 151
Eight Mile Spring, camp at, 165
El Vado de los Padres (Crossing of the Fathers), 7, 8, 41, 95, 96;
first white man to ford after Escalante, 96;
arrive at, 1871, 143;
description of, 168;
arrive at, 1872, 210;
early known by Richard Campbell, 96
Emma, Sister, a wife of John D. Lee, 211
Endowment garment, Adams wears one, 259
Epizoötic visits Utah, 262
Escalante, his crossing of the Colorado, 7;
Sierra, 43;
of Green River, 67;
his name for Green River, 67;
for White River, 67;
River, 210;
river named by Professor Thompson, 210
F
Failure Creek, 129
Fennemore, joins party, 187;
falls sick, 212;
leaves party, 216;
in Salt Lake, 267
Field, 5;
arm-chair obtained from, 8;
breakfast at, 9
Flaming Gorge, 1, 2;
height of walls, 17;
Green River enters, 17;
accessibility, 20;
gateway to the series of canyons, 22
Frank, _see_ Richardson
Frank, Pai Ute, _see_ Chuarooumpeak
Frémont, River, 3;
_see_ Dirty Devil;
General, 95;
First Granite Gorge of the Grand Canyon, declivity in, 43
First Powell Expedition, v.;
plat of river by, vi., 2, 96;
boats of, x.
Food supply exhausted, 141
Fort Davy Crockett, 30
Fort Defiance, Jacob Hamblin goes there, 143
Fort Pierce, 188
Fort Robideau, 67;
only house on the river, 72
Fretwater Falls, 83
Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, 166, 195
G
Gate of Lodore, 32
Gentile frontier town compared with Mormon, 174
Gila monster, 245
Gilbert, G. K., vii., 136
Glen Canyon, beginning, 137;
width of river in, 139;
height of walls, 139-143;
end of, 151
Glencove, attempt to reach Dirty Devil River from, 99
Glendale, Mormon settlement, 262
Goblin City, journey to, 68;
description of, 69
Gold, found on Colorado, 144;
at mouth of Kanab, 174;
miners go after, 185
Golden to Provo, waggon road, 67
Gosi-Utes, Gunnison killed by, 95
Gould's ranch, 190
Grand Canyon, Jacob Hamblin circumtours it, 96;
Powell finds way in to the mouth of the Kanab, 174;
Dodds and Jones get to it, 188;
Whitmore describes a crossing, 188;
Dodds and Johnson reach river, 189;
Dodds and Dellenbaugh go to river at Lava Falls, 192;
Marble division begins, 216;
length of, including Marble Canyon, 217;
beginning of, 223;
enter it, 223
Grand River, 109
Grand Wash, 96;
altitude of, 217
Granite, the, runs up, 225
Grant, news of election of, 256
Graves, ancient, discovered, 77
Gray Canyon, enter it, 91;
colour, height, and character of walls, 91, 92;
end of, 93;
length of, 93
Gray Cliffs, 164
Great Basin, 164
Green River, points on, astronomically fixed before Powell, 19, 95
Green River City, arrive there, 3;
described, 5;
settlements below, 8
Green River Suck, 20
Green River Valley, 1, 2
Grizzly bears, 26
Gunnison, Captain, crossed Green River, 95;
killed, 95
Gunnison Butte, 93, 99
Gunnison Crossing, Powell plans to rejoin his party there, 70
Gypsum Canyon, 127
H
Habasu (Havasu), 96
Haight, 153, 157
Hamblin, Frank, 254
Hamblin, Fred, 99
Hamblin, Jacob, scout and pioneer, 96;
first after Escalante to cross at El Vado, 96;
circumtours the Marble and Grand canyons, 96;
arrives at Paria, 153;
treaty with Navajos, 168;
title of his book, 169;
Indian engagements, 170;
goes to Mt. Trumbull with Powell, 170;
wives of, 174;
hears plot to ambush, 243
Hamblin, Joseph, 156, 241
Hamblin, Lyman, 99
Hanson, name assumed by J. H. Beadle, 215
Harrell brothers, camp in Brown's Park, 30
Hastele, Navajo chief, 169
Hattan, Andrew, 4;
place in boat, 11;
his call to meals, 11;
departure, 260
Headquarters, winter, of, 1872-73, 260
Hell's Half Mill, 44
Henry Mountains (Unknown Mts., _q. v._), 207
Henry's Fork, mouth of, 17;
astronomically fixed, 95
Henry, Professor Joseph, vi.
Henry (Azure) Cliffs, 99
Hidden Lakes, the, 201
High Plateaus of Utah, continuation of Wasatch Range, 95;
end of, 164
Hillers, John K., joins party, 7;
catches fish, 15;
songs of, 52, 74;
catches salmon, 98;
photographer, 217;
hurts his back, 225;
trip to Moki towns, 248
Hog-backs, topographical feature described, 198
Hook, Theodore, drowned, 25;
grave of, 25
Horse discovered, 90
Horse sense, 258, 264
Horseshoe Canyon, why so called, 21
Hotel Tovar, 232
House ruins, Shinumo, 112, 137, 138
House Rock Spring, 157, 160
House Rock Valley, 160, 175
Howland, Seneca, and O. G., 141
Howlands and Dunn, vi., vii.;
why killed by Shewits, 171;
left first party, 242;
killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259
Hurricane Hill, 190
Hurricane Ledge, 190
I
Illustrations in Powell's _Report_, x.
Innupin, definition of, 252
Innupin Picavu (Water-pocket), 251
Island Park, 56
Ives, comes up Colorado, 1858, 2;
reconnoitres south of Grand Canyon, 96;
names North Side Mountains, 186
J
Jack, _see_ Hillers
Jacob, _see_ Hamblin
Jacob's Pools, 159
Johnson, Will, 186;
leaves party, 211
Johnson's, Mormon settlement 166
Jones, S. V., 10;
place in boat, 11;
falls ill, 152;
leaves, 260
Julien, D., inscriptions by, 108, 113, 118
Junction, the, of the Grand and Green, 113;
summit at, 116;
trail to, 118
K
Kaibab (Buckskin Mountain), seen from Echo Peaks, 150;
band of Pai Utes, 177;
trip to south-west corner of, 182;
Point F established on, 184;
seen from Marble Canyon, 222
Kanab, settlement of, 8;
headquarters, 145;
headquarters, winter of 1872-73, 260;
description of, 166;
base line near, 173;
Christmas dance, 173
Kanab Canyon, journey up, 185, 244;
supplies to be brought in there, 224
Kapurats, Pai Ute name for Major Powell, 171
Kettle Creek, 24
Killiloo, refrain, 75, 81, 226, 267
Kingfisher Canyon, 22;
why so called, 22
Kingfisher Creek, 21
Kit Carson, 95
Koneco, Navajo chief, 154
L
Labyrinth Canyon, enter it, 105;
end of, 110;
length of, 110
La Sal, Sierra, 103, 109, 127
Latter-Day Saints, 212
Lava Falls, Dodds and Dellenbaugh climb to river there, 192
Leaping Brook, 46
Lee, John Doyle, 195;
settles at Paria, 210;
meet him, 210;
wife Rachel, 210;
wife Emma (his XVIII.), 210;
called Naguts, 211;
executed, 211
Lee Ferry, 215
Lehi, Mormon town, 262, 266
Let-down, 26;
method of accomplishing a, 90
Letters from Clement Powell to the Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
from F. S. Dellenbaugh to the Buffalo _Express_, vii.
Life preservers, 8;
indispensable, 237
Light, the controversy of the, 63
Lighthouse Rock, 80
Lignite Canyon, 91
Line portage, 26
Little Brown's Hole, 29;
name changed to Red Canyon Park, 29
Little Canyon, 31
Little Colorado, canyon of, forms division between Marble and
Grand Canyons, 217;
mouth of, 222;
altitude of mouth, 223
Little White, or Price River, 92
Little Zion Valley, 190
Lodore Canyon, party goes through on the ice, 2;
gate of, 32;
why so called, 32;
we enter it, 34;
width of river in, 35, 42, 43;
velocity of current in, 35, 42;
sunlight in, 36;
wreckage found in, 41;
height of walls, 42, 43, 46;
character of 42;
declivity in, 43;
end of, 48;
length of, 48
Logan, Mt., 188
Log-cabin Cliff, 84
Lonely Dell, 211
Long Valley, route _via_, 262
Lost Creek (Crescent Creek), 209
Louisa, a wife of Jacob Hamblin, 174, 195, 250
Lower Disaster Falls, 42
M
MacEntee, 166;
leaves party, 179;
in Salt Lake, 267
Mackenzie, General, ix.,
map A, facing page 95
Macomb, 95
"Major, The" viii., _see_ Powell, John Wesley
Mangum, Joseph, 153;
the lost guide, 155, 157
Manti, Mormon settlement, 99, 174
Map, accuracy of plat of Colorado River, vi., vii., 243;
sheets giving Colorado River, viii.;
preliminary, finished, 262;
sent to Washington, 267
Marble Canyon, 150;
miners wrecked in, 195, 217;
enter it, 216;
total length with Grand Canyon, 217;
height of walls, 216, 217-222;
end of 222;
descent in, 223;
number of rapids in, 223
Markargunt Plateau, 191
Meek, Joseph, goes through Lodore on the ice, 95
Melvin Falls, 86
Millecrag Bend, 129, 132
Moki (Hopi) ruin, 79
Monument built 1869 by Powell, 78
Mookoontoweap or Little Zion Valley, 190
Mormon, settlements, 96;
method of pioneering, 167, 174;
dance, 173
Mt. Carmel, Mormon settlement, 262
Mount Dellenbaugh, named, 254;
altitude, 259;
Shinumo remains on, 259
Mount Ellen, Henry Mountains, 208
Mount Hillers, Henry Mountains, 208
Mount Logan, 188, 253
Mount Nebo, 266
Mount Pennell, Henry Mountains, 207, 208
Mount Seneca Howland (Navajo Mt.), 141
Mountain Meadows massacre, 195;
Lee's version, 211
Music Temple, grotto, 141, 210
N
Narrow Canyon, 3, 133
Natural arches in Canyon of Desolation, 87, 88
Navajos, agency, 143;
meet with, 146;
afraid of our boats, 153;
dance with, 154;
ceremonial, 177
Navajo Creek, 149
Navajo Mountain, 139, 141, 201
Navajo Well, 175, 248
Nephi, 266
New Year's Day, 1872, 174;
1873, 260
_No-name_, boat, wreck of, 38
North Side Mountains (Uinkaret Mts.), 186
O
Oak Spring, 187, 188, 191
Old Jacob, _see_ Jacob Hamblin
Old Spanish Trail, 95, 246
Oonupits, sound made by, 252;
described, 252;
Indian shoots at, 252
Orange Cliffs, 110
Order of going, 11, 72, 136, 215
Overland Stage Co. road, Salt Lake to Denver _via_ Provo,
Robideau Crossing, and Golden, 67
P
Paantung, Thompson's Shewits guide, 259
Painted Desert, 150
Pai Ute women, Jacob Hamblin, scaled to, 174;
language without an "F," 250;
name for Major Powell, 250;
name for Professor Thompson, 250;
name for Dellenbaugh, 250;
George, Waytoots, Chuar, 250;
_see also_ Chuarooumpeak;
method of cooking rabbits, 252
Pai Utes, despised by Navajos, 170;
Kaibab band of, 177;
wickiups, 177;
arms, 178;
rabbit skin robe, 178;
fire obtained by drill, 178;
ceremonial, 178;
songs, 178, 179;
stone arrowhead making, 178
Panguitch, arrive at, 265
Paria, 95, 151, 197;
up cliffs at, 155;
settlement, 166
Parowan, 248
Patnish, chief of renegades, 8, 167, 250
Photographic outfit, 6, 58
Pictographs, 61
Pierce, Fort, 188, 191
Pine Valley Mountains, 189, 190
Pink Cliffs, 164
Pipe Spring, 185;
Wash, 185
Plateau Province, the, 109
Point F, 184
Portage, line, 26;
method of making, 40
Potato Valley, 199
Powell, Clement, letters from to Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
place in boat, 11;
duties of, 11;
leaves party, 259
Powell, Emma Dean (Mrs. J. W.), 7;
and infant daughter, 165;
in Middle Park, 172;
leaves for Washington, 179
Powell, John Wesley (The Major), the conqueror of the Colorado, 2;
title in Volunteer Army, 2;
first descent of Colorado; v., 3, 96,
no right arm, 8;
titles of reports, v., vi.,
position in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
goes up Yampa, 50;
on Yampa River 1868, 50;
goes ahead to Uinta, 56;
to Salt Lake, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266;
songs of, 73;
rejoins party, 98;
fails to reach Dirty Devil overland, 99;
leaves for Washington, 179, 259;
reports through Smithsonian Institution, vi.;
runs course of river, vii;
buried at Arlington, 267
Price River, 92
"Prof.," viii.,
_see_ Thompson, A. H.
Provo to Golden, waggon road, 67
_Putnam's Magazine_, copy found, 43
R
Rabbits, Pai Ute method of cooking, 252
Rain cascades, 105, 106, 132
Rapid, the first, 21;
method of running, 35, 36;
tails of, 36;
eddys at, 36;
Catastrophe, vi., 242, 243
Rations, 4, 111, 119
Red Canyon, 2;
entrance of, 22;
upset of _Nellie Powell_ in, 23;
width of river in, 24;
speed of current, 24;
height of cliffs, 24, 28;
end of, 30
Red Canyon Park, 29
Red Cliff, 176
Red Lake Utes, Jacob pacifies them, 170;
meet with band of, 204
Regiment marches from Salt Lake to Denver, 68
Renshawe, John, joins party, 259
Richardson, Frank C. A., 10;
position in boats, 11;
skill in dressing deer, 16;
leaves party, 31
Riggs, 157
Riggs, Charley, 248
Riley, George, 143;
head of pack train, 156;
cook, 260
Rio, San Buenaventura, 67;
San Clemente, 67;
San Rafael, 95, 103;
San Juan, 140, 210
Robideau, crossing of Green River, 67;
Fort, 67
Rocking stones in current, 127
Roundy, Lorenzo W., 153
Rudder useless on the Colorado, x.
S
Sag, the, at Disaster Falls, 38
St. George, Mormon settlement, 194
Salmon, white, caught, 98
Salt Lake City, 7, 17;
the major goes to, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266
Salt Lake to Denver, waggon road, _via_ Provo and Golden, 67
San Clemente, Rio, Escalante's name for White River, 67
San Francisco Mts., seen from Mt. Trumbull, 187;
from Echo Peaks, 250
San Juan River, mouth of, 140;
pass it, 1872, 210
San Rafael River, 95;
arrive at, 103
Santa Fé and Los Angeles trail, 94
Santa Fé Railway to the Grand Canyon, x.
Scorpions, 132
Second Powell expedition, the, vi., 3;
material used for report on first expedition, vi.;
supplies of, 4;
method of sacking rations, 6;
ready to start, 8;
personnel of, 11
Selden, 95
Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Creek, 149
Sevier Canyon, 266
Sharp Mountain Falls, 91
Shewits, killed Powell's men, vii., 96;
territory of, 186;
afraid of us, 191;
plan to ambush us, 243;
meet us, 253;
conference and agreement, 253;
Thompson's guide, 259
Shinumo, the, 112, 149;
trail, 113, 145;
caves, 132;
Canyon, 184;
ruin on Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259
Shower Bath Spring, 245
Shunesburg, Powell descends Virgin River to, 248
Sierra, Escalante, 43;
La Lal, 103;
Abajo, 127
Simpson, Captain, 95
Sinav-to-weap, 117
Sister Emma, 211
Sister Louisa, 174
Smithsonian Institution, Powell reported through, vi.
Snowblind, 266
Soap Creek, 159;
Frank M. Brown, drowned near mouth of, 159, 217;
Rapid, 217
"Sockdologer, of the World," 222;
rapid, 226
Songs of the camp, 73, 74
Sorghum molasses, 172
Spanish Fork, 266
Spanish Trail, Old, 95
Split Mountain Canyon, 57;
enter it, 58;
end of, 60;
length of, 60
Springs in river bottom, 103
Stanton, R. B., proves the White story incorrect, v.;
completed Brown expedition, ix.;
Canyon Railway project, x
Steward, John F., place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
on a raft, 16;
discovers gigantic fossil, 20;
determines nature of Unknown Mts., 136;
ill, 146;
recovers, 152;
leaves party, 160
Stewart, Bishop, of Kanab, 167;
saw-mill of, on Kaibab, 181
Stewart, John, goes with Powell to Grand Canyon, 172;
returns with news of gold find, 174
Stillwater Canyon, beginning of, 110;
nature of walls, 111, 113;
house ruins in, 112;
width, 113;
end of, 113;
length, 114
Summit Valley, 164
Sumner Amphitheatre, 79
Sumner, Jack, 7
Supplies, nature of, 4;
to be brought in at three places, 7
Surprise Valley, 241
Swallow Canyon, 31
Swallow Park, 197
T
Table Mountain, 198
Tapeats Creek, 240
Tavaputs Plateau, 80
Teemaroomtekai, Uinkaret chief, 253
Teram Picavu, 254
Thompson, Professor Alvin Harris, vi., vii., ix., 7;
place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
first white man to explore Shewits country, 254;
to climb Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259;
buried at Arlington, 267
Thompson, Mrs. Ellen Powell, 7, 165, 166, 172, 181, 195, 216, 259
Tiravu Picavu, 254
Tirtaan Aigles, slogan, 75, 267
Tokerville, Mormon settlement, 190
Tom, Pai Ute guide, 197;
leaves party, 199
Toroweap Valley, 192
Trachyte Creek, 208
Trail up cliffs of Paria, 155
_Tribune_, Chicago, letters to, from Clement Powell, v.
Trin Alcove, 107
Triplet Falls, 43
Trumbull, Mt., why so called, 186;
climbed, 187, 192;
height of, 187
Trumbull, Senator, 186
Tuba, a Moki (Hopi), goes home with Jacob, 169;
ceremony on crossing Colorado River, 169
U
Uinkaret, Indians, 186;
region, 186;
plateau, 190;
chief, 253
Uinta, Indian Agency, 7, 8, 71
Uinta Mountains, 1;
first view of from river, 15
Uinta River, pass mouth of, 76;
arrival at, 66;
Powell goes ahead to, 56;
mouth astronomically determined, 95
Uinta Utes, 61
Undine Springs, 103
Union Pacific Railway, crossing of Green River, 3;
_see_ Descent _and_ Distance
Unknown country, the, 95, 96, 199, 200, 201, 202
Unknown Mountains (Henry Mts.) viii., 104, 127, 133;
Steward determines nature of, 136;
position of Dirty Devil (Frémont) River with reference to, 199;
arrive at, 207;
map of, 207
Untokarowits, Pai Ute name for F. S. Dellenbaugh, 250
Utah Southern Railway finished to Lehi, 262
Utah, from, into Colorado, 31
Utes of Wonsits Valley, Uinta and White River, 61
Ute Crossing of Colorado in Uinkaret region, 188
Ute Ford, the (El Vado de los Padres), 148
Ute law as applied to capture, 71
V
Van Buren, Gentile settler on the Sevier, 266
Vasey's Paradise, 219
Vermilion Cliffs, 158, 164;
length of, 164
Vermilion River, 31
Virgin Mountains, 194
Virgin River, canyon of, explored down to Shunesburg, 248;
Little Zion or Mookoontoweap Valley of, 190
Volunteers march from Salt Lake to Denver, 68
Voyage, Canyon, the end of, 242
W
Walcott, Professor, vii.
Walker House, Salt Lake City, 267
Wasatch Cliffs, 200
Wheeler, Lieut. George M., goes up Colorado to Diamond Creek, 145
Whirlpool Canyon, 53;
end of, 55;
descent in, 56
Whirlpools described, 239
Whiskey not taken, 6
White, James, 2;
story of his trip through canyons disproved, v.
White River, 66;
journey down, 69;
pass mouth, 76
White River Utes, 61
Whitmore, Dr., killed by Navajos, 169;
ranch, 188
Wild Band Pocket, 251
Winnie's Grotto, 35
Winsor, of Pipe Spring, 185;
Castle, 185
Winter quarters, 1872-73, 260
Witch Water-pocket (Innupin Picavu), 251
Wolfskill, William, pioneer, 94
Wolves, 161, 162, 165
Wonsits Tiravu, 254
Wonsits Valley, 60
Woonoopits, _see_ Oonupits
Workman's Ranch, 190
Wreckage found in Lodore, 41
Wyoming, from, into Utah, 16
Y
Yampa River, 48, 49;
Powell on it in 1868, 50;
goes up, in boat, 50
Young, Brigham, 170, 185;
Alfred, 187
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| Transcriber's Notes: |
| |
| The original contained inconsistencies in spelling and |
| hypenation. The following variations were retained: |
| |
| air-line airline |
| arm-chair armchair |
| arrow-heads arrowheads |
| ball-room ballroom |
| bow-knot bowknot |
| near-by nearby |
| row-lock rowlock |
| sand-bank sandbank |
| school-house schoolhouse |
| ship-shape shipshape |
| south-westerly southwesterly |
| up-stream upstream |
| Clarkson Clarkston |
| Frémont Fremont |
| Konéco Koneco |
| De Motte DeMotte |
| |
| The following typographical errors in the original were |
| corrected: |
| |
| Pg 62: "eaving" to "leaving" |
| ("leaving us hardly a rock") |
| |
| Pg 175: "bame" to "came" |
| ("came to the edge") |
| |
| Pg 198: added "of" |
| ("like the roof of a house") |
| |
| Pg 220: "bat-battened" to "battened" |
| ("hatches firmly battened") |
| |
| Pg 229: "dashig" to "dashing" |
| ("water was dashing") |
| |
| Pg 250: "prononnced" to "pronounced" |
| ("in their language pronounced") |
| |
| Pg 273: "Canyon" to "Kanab Canyon" |
| ("Kanab Canyon, Journey up") |
| |
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End of Project Gutenberg's A Canyon Voyage, by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh