I learned here that Tansy (_Tanacetum vulgare_) and Mugwort (_Artemisia
vulgaris_) are used to make a fomentation or bath, wonderfully useful
for women in labour, who are accustomed to sit over the steam of these
herbs. I had observed the people at every house drying Tansy, but could
meet with nobody who would inform me to what use it was destined.
_September 16._
This day I again left Tornea for Kimi. There are six ferries between
these two places, over the river Kokama, which passes near Kimi. Two
miles from hence are the boundaries of East and West Bothnia. Lime-stone
attracted my notice all the way along the road to Norbotn; it was yellow
on the outside, whitish within.
_September 17._
I departed from the posthouse of Kimi. The weather was unfavourable, for
it rained all day long. I took up my lodging in the evening at the
posthouse of Jö. This part of the country lies very low, abounding with
marshes and numerous small rivulets, but few hills. There is plenty of
grass. The buildings are bad. The forests consist chiefly of Birch,
intermixed with the _acifoliæ_ (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these
last the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance and large size, so as
to be almost arborescent. The Birch and the dwarf Willows had now become
pale, but the _Sorbus_ (Mountain ash, _Pyrus aucuparia_, _Fl. Brit._)
had assumed a red hue, as well as all the mosses. (_Pedicularis_)
_Sceptrum Carolinum_ appeared every where by the roadside. _Thalictrum_
(_flavum_) and _Scutellaria_ (_galericulata_) were less frequent, but
Golden-rod (_Solidago Virga aurea_), _Trollius_ (_europæus_), (_Spiræa_)
_Ulmaria_, and _Epilobium_ (_palustre_?) were plentiful, as was the
sweet _Milium_ (_effusum_), with the _Gramen ramosum_ (probably _Aira
cæspitosa_.)
The inhabitants were in their smoky huts, with their eyes full of smoke,
and the tears running from them. Nevertheless they seemed more studious
of warmth than careful of their eyesight.
The same sort of plough is used here as at Kimi.
I had frequent views of the sea through the woods on the right hand.
Wherever the waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea with a triangular
stem, a white creeping perennial root, and thick leaves alternately
pinnate, (_Pisum maritimum_).
Near Jö I noticed a pit-fall designed to catch wolves. This was dug in a
hill, at no great distance from the house. Around it within were eleven
pales or stakes, placed upright and close together. In the centre stood
a pole, which, as well as the pales, was on a level with the surface of
the ground. The pole supported a wheel, over which were laid boards, so
as entirely to cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, when caught,
should be able to climb up as high as the wheel, he might not get any
further.
The peasants of this upper part of East Bothnia, children of darkness in
their houses, are no less so in their slovenly appearance, chiefly owing
to their uncombed hair. Their breeches reach as low as the feet, and are
white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, sewed together in
front.--Their disposition is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected
with a smell of sour fish, like sour Str[oe]mming, for they are kept
very dirty. These people speak no other language than the Finlandish.
Here and there by the road I had this day travelled, I noticed the Sea
Wheat-grass, (_Elymus arenarius._ See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. _n._ 34.)
_September 18._
I travelled from Jö to Ulaborg. The rye was bound into sheaves, ten of
which were piled up together in a heap, the ears at the top of each
being brought close together, and another sheath being placed, in an
inverted position, upon them, the whole was sheltered from wet. The
barley was not set upright, but laid on one side, in such a manner that
the ears were all turned inward, and the straw stood outward all round.
On the top of each little stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was put,
as a kind of covering.
[Illustration]
The villages consisted of the same kind of smoky huts I have already
described.
(The annexed cut seems to be a representation of one of these dwellings,
at which Linnæus was so indignant.)
[Illustration]
Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are collected from the shore,
which, though nothing but concretions of sand and small pebbles, are so
firm as to serve for the construction of ovens. At one spot, where the
river had excavated the sandy bank, it was evident that the cement,
which combines these particles together, is no other than a rust of
iron. The stones in general hereabouts are very fine-grained, and break
easily. They have all the appearance of containing a portion of iron.
Some were more rugged and rusty than the rest.
A kind of boats used here to navigate rapid and dangerous parts of the
rivers, are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and are four or five
fathoms long, and about one broad in their middle. The sides are five or
six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities compressed. The middle of
the boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel being raised up, or
hollowed as it were by the dilatation of the sides, in which all the
importance and peculiarity of the contrivance consists, for without this
the vessel would be much more easily overset in rapid and shelvy places.
Some of these boats have no prominent keel at all; others are furnished
with a slight one, chiefly in their forepart, which is a little the
highest, in order to bear the better any shocks from striking against
stones; so that if this part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel may
go in safety.
One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-fish, (_Salmo Lavaretus_, or
Gwiniad, before mentioned) are five spans high, and of a considerable
length, the meshes very small. There are loop-holes at the top, large
enough to admit two fingers, bordered with birch bark, whose edges are
sewn together. (See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones (5, 6, 7) at
the bottom are but small, covered with birch bark. The nets are set near
the sandy shore.
[Illustration]
Another kind of net, used for catching the same fish, is placed in the
strongest part of a current or water-fall. It resembles a receiving net,
except being not so deep. The length is three ells, breadth two, and
depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by means of poles, in the middle
of the very strongest and most confined current, against the stream, so
that when the fish attempts to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on
each side the net, he finds it impracticable, and is thrown back by the
force of the water, generally into the net, out of which he can never
escape, but is taken out at leisure.
[Illustration]
Near Ulaborg is a mineral spring, not yet made any use of. The taste of
the water seemed good. This spring is situated close to the town, on a
small island, where there is a sawing-mill.
In the church I noticed the monument of Messenius, with his effigy made
to the life. He is actually buried here[14]. This church is one of the
longest I ever saw built of wood, but its height is not correspondent.
The arms of the town are displayed on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as
large as Lund.
_September 19._
After attending divine service I left this place. Sledges in use here
are constructed with a cross board to rest the feet against. (a, seems
to be a bandage or belt, to keep the traveller from being suddenly
jolted out of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the back or head
against; but there are no references in the manuscript to these letters
of the sketch.)
[Illustration]
I now came in sight of the extensive meadows of Limingo, more spacious
than all the meadow-ground of Tornea and Rödbeck together. (Tuneld says
in his Geography, that the meadows of Limingo, and cornfields of the
neighbouring parish of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for their
great extent.) At first the land seemed a perfect marsh, filled with
Horsetail (_Equisetum fluviatile_), and especially with Reed, _Arundo_
(_Phragmites_), which last grew in such abundance as to resemble a
forest. The Water Hemlock, _Cicutaria aquatica_, _Cicuta virosa_; (see
p. 136), was very plentiful by the road-side. This led me to inquire
whether the cattle ever fed there? I was answered by the peasants in the
affirmative, with a question in my turn, whether I could give them any
advice on the subject, for they had lost a great many; adding similar
particulars to what I had heard at Tornea.
Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_) grew all the way by the road, as well as
_Lenticula_ (_Lemna_ or Duck-weed), and the _Lichenoides_ of which
powder is made was observable on the trees. (_Lichen prunastri_, said to
have been used for hair-powder.)
The meadow of Limingo is two miles in length. The best part of the
land, near the village of that name, was now occupied by the horned
cattle. The land here is more elevated and less marshy, though somewhat
impaired by tumps (of _Carex cæspitosa_). If but a third part of it were
cultivated, according to the Scanian mode of husbandry, it would be of
more value than the whole is at present. I was told that the whole marsh
might be laid dry, by cutting a channel down to the seashore; but it was
feared that the land might in consequence become covered with White Moss
(_Sphagnum palustre_), which would render it altogether unprofitable.
About a thousand hay-cocks were now before me on the meadow, but none of
them consisting of more than a horse could draw. They never here use
more than a single horse or ox at a time for draught. Each of these
cocks was raised from the ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by
several cross poles. Some of the Water Iris (_Iris Pseud'acorus_) was
mixed with the hay.
The milk-strainers are made of straw, and not very clean.
_September 20._
Brabestad, not far distant, is a small town, though twice the size of
Tornea, standing on a peninsula by the sea.
In the hospital of Cronby are many maniacs, whose insanity is said to
have arisen from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. One of them,
whose wife was a very old woman, took this fancy, supposing her to
intrigue with several other men. Possibly in these cases impotence, or
perhaps some fantastic concupiscence, may have been a cause of the
derangement.
About this neighbourhood it is the custom to administer to women in
labour a very nauseous medicine, which is called _Hittatran_, or Casual
Train-oil; so termed because it is obtained from the carcases of such
seals as, having been killed early in the spring, have been left among
the broken ice till they are by chance cast upon the shore. They are
consequently putrid, and the oil is so offensive, that few persons,
except such as are in great extremity, or not very nice, can be brought
to take it. In general Castor is here considered as a sheet-anchor in
such cases, as being found by long experience very effectual in bringing
on the labour-pains. Others take saffron infused in wine. For
after-pains they swallow, as at Kimi, a few drops of blood from the
umbilical cord, not only in the woman's first lying-in, but every
subsequent one.
Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a method by which they pretend to
catch bears, with a sort of magic. This is done by procuring some of the
bear's dung, fresh and warm if possible, and mixing it with that of one
of their own cows. The consequence is said to be, that the bear will be
attracted by sympathy to come after the cow; an effect certainly not
more wonderful than many sympathies upon record.
There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki which is called _Muicu_.
Bishop Terserus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says that he has seen at
this place a fish named _Muicu_, which is no other than the _Blikta_,
taken in the lake of Silian in his native country. How true this may be
I know not, but I saw plainly that this _Muicu_ is the _Small Sijk_
(_Salmo Albula_), such as is found in Smoland.
The following figure represents a plough used here, drawn by an ox. The
share, a, is of iron, a span long. The part b is four spans high; c is
four spans long; d and e, three spans each; f, g, four spans. The ends
of the shafts are connected by a curved piece of wood, which keeps them
from the shoulders of the animal, and supports them.
[Illustration]
_September 21._
Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, I went to church at Gambla
Carleby. Here is an introductory school, to prepare children for that at
Cronby.
I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a remarkably good harbour. Ships
are able to load and unload close to the quay.
_September 22._
Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town of New Carleby, which is
nearly as big as Wexiö. Every one of the streets is laid with timbers,
placed cross-wise, instead of stones, like a bridge, which has a
handsome appearance. The harbour of this place is near the river, a
quarter of a mile from the town. Vessels when laden indeed can scarcely
come within half a mile. On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined
to be conveyed to Stockholm for fuel.
The country-people have, in every one of their mills, an instrument made
of six or seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut chaff into small
pieces in a trough, in order to grind it afterwards with their barley.
_Rotkäl_ (_Brassica oleracea_ [kappa], Sp. Pl. 932, _Napo brassica_, or
Stalk-cabbage) is dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and given
with the liquor to the cattle.
The women at this place wear a hood, or neckcloth, as they call it, of
grey walmal cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied with a black
ribband in the fore part. When they ride on horseback, they carry the
whip slung at their back.
[Illustration]
To stir up the pot, when boiling, they use a stick with several
projecting bits of wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,)
which is rolled between their hands.
In the evening of this day I arrived at Wasa.
_September 23._
I went to church at Wasa, and visited also the palace, situated on the
south-west side of the city, the school, and other public buildings.
This is a handsome little town enough. It is the residence of the
governor.
Not far from the town, and indeed close to the walls, is a reputed
copper-mine, the working of which was discontinued, after an excavation
had been made to the depth of five or six fathoms. The ore has a
glittering micaceous appearance, and gives a stain like black lead. The
sand about it is a loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed. I do not
indeed believe that it contains any copper or other metal; which seems
to have been the opinion of those who so soon gave over the pursuit.
The rustics here trust to three doctors, Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and
Pallavinus. (By a chemical sign annexed, it appears that Linnæus here
meant brandy, but the word itself is not explained.)
This day being Sunday, I saw the girls all going bare-headed to church.
They each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, supported by broad
coloured ribbands, the ends of which hung down.
_September 24._
In my way from New Carleby to this place (the day before yesterday) I
had observed a kind of plough in use, different from any I had before
seen. This was almost always drawn by a horse, seldom by an ox. The
latter, when used, had the same harness as the horse, but without a
girth. Over its back indeed passes a band like a saddle-girth, which is
kept upon the neck of the animal to prevent the harness sliding
forward; but for horses they use no such thing. See the figure.
[Illustration]
The shoes worn at this place in some measure resemble half-boots. The
soles are of untanned leather, with the hair upon it; the upper leathers
made of tanned seal-skin, and tied round the ankle with strings. (A
representation of one of these shoes accompanies the last figure.)
_Hypericum_ (_perforatum_), _Scrophularia_ (_nodosa_), _Bidens_
(_cernua_?) occurred to me here, for the first time in all my journey.
The three species of _Ribes_ (_rubrum_, _alpinum_ and _nigrum_,) were in
prodigious abundance.
_September 25._
At sun-rise I took my departure from Wasa. The pines in the forest were
stripped of their bark, so that vast tracts were covered with nothing
but such naked trees. No more was left on each trunk, to the height of
three ells or three and a half, than a small strip of bark, about the
breadth of four fingers, generally on the north side, to prevent its
being ... (here is a word not to be decyphered). The trees are left
standing for six or seven years afterwards, and are then cut down close
to the roots, being also headed a little above the naked part. The
heads or branches either serve for firing, or, as often happens, are
left to rot on the ground.
Three miles below Wasa I recognised the Climbing Nightshade (_Solanum
Dulcamara_). In the town itself I had noticed (_Leonurus_) _Cardiaca_,
and Henbane (_Hyoscyamus niger_). Near the shore grew _Salix oleæfolia_
with its berries, _(Hippophaë rhamnoides_). It is known by the name of
_Finnbær_ or _Surbær_, (Finn-berries, or Sour berries). The fruit is
situated below the leaves, as in the Alder. The footstalks are two lines
long. Berries bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, three or four
lines long, smooth, sour, having a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous
matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, slightly compressed, obtuse,
attached by its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds it. When this
cover is removed, the seed itself appears brown and polished, having a
longitudinal groove at each side. The fishermen eat these berries
bruised, by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I thought them rather
too acid.
_September 26._
I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but before coming to that place,
noticed at Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which had formerly
been a fine meadow, the soil being extremely good. But at present it was
so entirely overrun with tumps (originally perhaps formed of _Carex
cæspitosa_) that it produced little or nothing. These tumps were crowded
almost over one another, and were overgrown by _Polytrichum_
(Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, and rendered most of
them nearly black. There was scarcely room for the cattle to make their
way to any food between the tumps.
In the passages of all the houses hung nets, used for catching bears.
These are made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner bark of the lime-tree,
_Tilia europæa_,) full as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes when
stretched are each three quarters of an ell wide. The height of the net
is equal to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported by poles, are set
up in a line of one hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side close to
the ground. The bear is driven into them by the people hunting him on
all sides.
_September 27._
This day I observed a mode of brewing in a kneading trough, which stood
on a table, and its end being made so as to slide up and down, the wort
is easily poured out.
Below the town of Christina, I first found the _Lathyrus viciæformis_
(_L. palustris_), and Water Cresses, (_Sisymbrium Nasturtium_); also
_Campanula persicifolia_ and (_Sedum_) _Telephium_.
_September 28._
I was glad when I had done with the very bad road which extends from
the Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl, towards Biorreborg; a
highway it cannot be called, for it is exactly like the road between the
town of Umoea and Granoen. (See _v._ 1. 141.)
Near Sastmola I first recognised the _Acer_ (_platanoides_) and _Filix
f[oe]mina ramosa_ (_Aspidium Filix-f[oe]mina_?)
The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The grass
here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the _Ribes
insipidum_ (_alpinum_), called by the inhabitants _Degbaer_, in the
greatest abundance. (_Viburnum_) _Opulus_ and (_Lonicera_) _Xylosteum_
here first re-appeared after my long absence.
N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with
blackish-brown berries, may perhaps be the _Xylosteum_, as the colour of
the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above
indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the _Flora
Suecica_, be suspected that Linnæus had, in these two paragraphs,
written by mistake _Xylosteum_ for _Periclymenum_.)
The alpine Stone Bramble, _Rubus saxatilis_, was extremely plentiful;
and the Cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), growing wild, afforded me
great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round
the Aspen trees (_Populus tremula_). Here also (_Anemone_) _Hepatica_,
and the _Cracca_ with toothed wings (_stipulæ_) and striated flowers,
(_Vicia sylvatica_,) as well as the _Orobus vernus_, once more greeted
me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for
cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (_Agrostis arundinacea_,) grows
copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head.
The marshes abound with _Iris_ (_Pseud-acorus_) and with _Cyperus_
(probably _Scirpus maritimus_).
The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kimi lay so
near the shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was
frequently visible through the forests.
_September 29._