The belt itself is ornamented with tin or silver embroidery, and
pearls.
[Illustration]
The men wear, instead of the above, a kind of bag, hanging down exactly
in front. This is divided internally into two pockets, containing their
tobacco-pipe, tinder-box, tobacco, and a spoon made of reindeer's horn,
of an oblong flattish shape.
The women often wear a similar bag, but of a smaller size.
When the reindeer are milked, as they cast their coat during the whole
course of the summer, the hair flies about very inconveniently, often
covering the milk in the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs of the
animal, and it is found necessary to clean and soften them before the
milking is begun. This is generally done by dipping the fingers into the
milk which may be in the pail already, and washing them therewith.
Whenever it happens that one of the reindeer strays from its master's
herd to that of a neighbour, the person to whom it comes milks it,
without any offence to the proper owner. Such an accident often happens;
for these animals love society, and the more of them there are together,
the better they thrive and enjoy themselves. They are marked at the
ears, like cows, that every person may know his own.
The furniture of these Laplanders consists of kettles and pots, made
sometimes of brass, sometimes of copper; rarely of stone, on account of
the weight. They have also hemispherical bowls, with handles, generally
made of the hard knotty excrescences of the birch. These are often large
enough to hold four or five cans, (of three quarts each,) and formed so
neatly, that any one would believe them to be turned. Into these they
pour what is to be served up at their meals. Plates they have none, but
in their stead boards, of an oblong shape, are used for meat; which,
previous to its distribution among the guests, is served up in round
pails. Closely platted baskets, or tubs, always circular, are used to
keep cheese in. There is moreover an oblong barrel, for the purpose of
holding _jumomjolk_ (_vol._ 1. _p._ 273).
Within the tent are spread on each side skins of reindeer, with the
hairy part uppermost, on which the people either sit or lie down, for
the tent is not lofty enough to allow any one to stand upright. In the
centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a square enclosure of low
stones about the ash-heap. The back part of the tent, behind the
fire-place, is entirely occupied either with brush-wood or branches of
trees, behind which, or, most commonly, before it next the fire, the
household furniture is placed. In the roof are two racks, suspended over
the reindeer skins on each side, upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and
before these, towards the entrance, hang rennet-bags, filled with milk,
preserved for winter use.
The annexed figure is a sort of plan of the floor of one of these
Lapland tents. a is the fire-place. b, b, reindeer skins, six in number,
three at the right hand, on entering the tent, and as many at the left.
c large fire-wood. d cheese-vessels. e kettle, with its lid. f, behind
the first reindeer skin, is the place of the harness. g a barrel or
cask. h a store of skins and hair of the reindeer. i the milk-strainer,
with its flat cover.
[Illustration]
The following figure represents the roof of the tent, as seen from
below. a, a, are the racks on which the cheeses are ranged. b outlet for
the smoke. c, c, rennet-bags containing milk. d plat of hair from the
reindeer's tail, to strain milk through. e the flat cover of the
milk-strainer; see i in the former figure.
[Illustration]
Such was the dwelling, and I shall now describe some of its inhabitants.
I sat myself down at the right hand of the entrance, with my legs
across. Opposite to me sat an old woman, with one leg bent, the other
straight. Her dress came no lower than her knees, but she had a belt
embroidered with silver. Her grey hair hung straight down, and she had a
wrinkled face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was altogether of the
Lapland cast. Her fingers were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next to her
sat her husband, a young man, six-and-thirty years of age, who, for the
sake of her large herds of reindeer, had already been married ten years
to this old hag. When the Laplanders sit, they either cross their legs
under them, or one knee is bent, the other straight.
As a defence against wind and snow, a sort of hood, called
_nialmiphata_, is worn over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of the
shape of a truncated cone, dilated at the bottom, and is four palms
high, three palms in circumference at the upper part, and six at the
bottom. This covers the cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders, the
eyes and mouth only being exposed. In the back part, at bottom, is a
loop, through which goes a riband to secure the whole from being blown
off, by being tied round the body under the arms.
In winter-time the women wear breeches, made exactly like those worn by
the men, as well as boots, though the latter come no higher than the
knees. It is wonderful how they are able, in the severity of winter, to
follow the reindeer, which are never at rest, but keep feeding by night
as well as by day. They have indeed small sheds or huts, here and there,
into which they occasionally drive their reindeer, but with the greatest
difficulty.
During the night we passed over the beautiful lake of _Wirisiar_. The
weather was very cold and foggy.
_July 17._
In the morning we arrived at the abode of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff,
where I could not but admire the fairness of the bodies of these
dark-faced people, which rivalled that of any lady whatever.
Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in Lapland _Lummick_. The body of
these animals is grey; face and shoulders black; the loins blackish;
tail, as well as ears, very short. They feed on grass and reindeer-moss
(_Lichen rangiferinus_), and are not eatable. They live, for the most
part, in the alps; but in some years thousands of them come down into
the woodland countries, passing right over lakes, bogs, and marshes, by
which great numbers perish. They are by no means timid, but look out,
from their holes, at passengers, like a dog. They bring forth five or
six at a birth. Their burrows are about half a quarter (of an ell?)
deep.
Here I found the little Gentian, or Centaury, with a hyacinthine flower
in five notched segments (_Gentiana nivalis_).
_July 18._
I gathered and examined the little Catchfly, which resembles the common
one (_Lychnis Viscaria_) except in being smaller, and not at all viscid.
(_L. alpina_; see _v._ 1. _p._ 302. _n._ 46.) The root is perennial.
Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to linear. Stem simple, round,
smooth, bearing two, three, or four pairs of opposite leaves. From the
uppermost pair springs one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a single
flower, between two small opposite purple leaves. A little higher up,
two other simple flower-stalks come forth in the same manner, with two
coloured leaves at their base, the stem being thus extended straight
upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured, with five teeth. Petals five,
their disk cloven half way down; the crown with two teeth. Stamens 10.
Pistils 5.
After passing the alps, we grew thirsty; but the water we met with
proved less pleasant than usual, having an earthy taste, although it
flowed from plentiful stores of ice and snow. My Laplander took his
knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he sucked by way of refreshment.
I found this mode of drinking agreeable enough, the ice being very
palatable, and we both partook of it largely. He told me it was
considered very wholesome for the chest. Indeed I learned, both from the
Laplanders and my own experience, that pure water, however cold, is
never hurtful, provided it be taken in moderation.
I was desirous of having my linen washed; but the people understood my
request as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a single article of
their own apparel being made of linen. As their food is of animal
origin, so is their clothing, which consists either of skins, the
produce of the country, or of the woollen cloth called _walmal_, which
they purchase. In the winter they wear Lapland boots, which come up as
high as the middle of the thighs, without any stockings, only the feet
are protected with what they term _Skogras_ (_Carex sylvatica_ Fl.
Brit.), as already mentioned. Next to the body they wear a jacket of
_walmal_, and above that a _lappmudd_, or coat of reindeer skin, with
the hairy side turned inwards. In summer they turn that side outwards.
The boots used by the women do not reach higher than the knee.
_July 19._
I remarked with astonishment how greatly the reindeer are incommoded in
hot weather, insomuch that they cannot stand still a minute, no not a
moment, without changing their posture, starting, puffing and blowing
continually, and all on account of a little fly. Even though amongst a
herd of perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not above ten of these
flies, every one of the herd trembled and kept pushing its neighbour
about. The fly meanwhile was trying every means to get at them; but it
no sooner touched any part of their bodies, than they made an immediate
effort to shake it off. In one respect this season is peculiarly
propitious to the insect, as the reindeer's coat is now very thin, most
of the hair of last year's growth being fallen off. I caught one of
these insects as it was flying along with its tail protruded, which had
at its extremity a small linear orifice, perfectly white. The tail
itself consisted of four or five tubular joints, slipping into each
other, like a pocket spying-glass, which this fly, like others, has a
power of contracting at pleasure. See what I have already mentioned
(_vol._ 1. _p._ 280), concerning the spots in the reindeer skins, as
caused by this insect (_Oestrus Tarandi_).
When the Lapland children are laid into the cradle, they seldom cry,
although their hands are confined down to their sides. If they cry, it
is generally from hunger. The cradle is placed in a sloping position, so
that the child's head is half upright. The bottom of the cradle is
hollowed out of a piece of fir wood, consequently not very heavy. Over
the head of the child is a hoop forming an arch, to which a transverse
bow is fixed, the whole being covered with cloth, like the rest of the
cradle. In summer the child lies without any covering of reindeer hair,
only having under its head and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or
moss.
The Laplanders use a curious kind of box or basket, which they call
_kisa_, for keeping or carrying various articles. It is of an oval form,
with the bottom and sides made of fir, like a box, being about a foot
and half long, a foot broad, and six inches deep, with a transverse
opening in the bottom to admit a part of the saddle of the reindeer. The
contents are confined by a lacing of cords, that goes from side to side
across the top, which is otherwise open. Two such boxes, each weighing
about two pounds, are placed like panniers upon the reindeer; for that
animal cannot carry above four or five pounds weight, and the castrated
males only are used as beasts of burthen at all. A leather thong crosses
the saddle, connected with another longer one, which goes round the
chest of the animal at one part, and round its thighs, like the
breechings of a horse, at the other. A pack-saddle, made either of
reindeer skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of spruce fir, goes across
the back, and is connected with the leather thongs just mentioned, being
further secured by a girth under the belly. Against the sides of this
pack-saddle the above-described boxes or baskets are hung and fastened,
the transverse chink in the bottom of each being fitted to the saddle.
I observed that the Laplanders, both men and women, after borrowing a
lighted pipe, and passing it from one to another, retain a mouthful of
smoke as long as possible, that they may enjoy as much of the flavour as
they can. Old men chew tobacco.
The tendons in the legs of the reindeer serve to make thread or cord. In
each hind leg are two tendons, one before the other; in each fore leg
one behind and two or three before it. These the Laplanders lay hold of
with their mouths, split and moisten them, rubbing them from time to
time with reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for that use, in order
to render them as supple as possible. Each string is made sharp at both
ends, and drawn through holes of various sizes in an instrument made on
purpose (of wood or metal) to render it as fine and smooth as they can.
Two such threads are then twisted together by means of the hand upon
the thigh or knee. They are generally held with the left hand, and
twisted with the right upon the left knee, proceeding downwards, the
thread being moistened from time to time with saliva.
In this part of the country the _Empetrum_ (Crow- or Crake-berry) serves
for firing. Otherwise the most common fuel is the dwarf Birch (_Betula
nana_), and the Willow with lanceolate white hairy leaves (_Salix
lapponum_), so very abundant on the Lapland alps. The dwarf birch bears
very small leaves in these elevated regions.
When the children are taken out of the cradle, which I have already
described (_vol._ 2. _p._ 23), they are dressed in a small garment of
reindeer skin. They are usually able to stand on their legs by the time
they are four months old, and turn their head and eyes about with a
degree of intelligence hardly ever seen in our children at that early
age.
I never met with any people who lead such easy happy lives as the
Laplanders. In summer they make two meals of milk in the course of the
day, and when they have gone through their allotted task of milking
their reindeer, or making cheese, they resign themselves to indolent
tranquillity, not knowing what to do next. In winter their food is
cheese, taken once or twice a day, but in the evening they eat meat. A
single reindeer supplies four persons with food for a week.
This animal has no gall-bladder, nor could I discover the insertion of
the biliary duct. The liver however is of a large size. The first
stomach is large, with a thick orifice, and lined with a fine cellular
network like that of a cow, being moreover longitudinally plaited. The
Laplanders are curious dissectors. They take out each of the stomachs
separately, with as much care as a professed anatomist.
The thread made of sinews, as above described, is never used for sewing
_walmal_, which makes their summer clothing, but only for garments
composed of fur or leather. Their shoes indeed are mended, as well as
made, with it. This last business falls to the lot of the women. The
leather is purchased.
A good ox may be bought in Norway for three rix-dollars; a female
reindeer for one rix-dollar; a castrated male for from twelve to
eighteen dollars, silver coin; and a fawn is worth from twelve to
eighteen dollars of copper money. Three reindeer, therefore, are but
equal to the value of a common ox.
I left this place in the evening, proceeding on my journey on foot, and
walking all night long, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the
following day. Thus I walked six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at
another Lapland hut.
[Illustration]
Nothing occurred particularly worth noticing by the way, except an
_Andromeda_ (_tetragona_) with quadrangular shoots, and flowers from
the bosoms of the leaves. The stem is woody, procumbent, naked,
thread-shaped, variously divided. Branches partly erect, entirely
covered with leaves, which are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded,
concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an imbricated manner.
Flower-stalks solitary, from the bosoms of the leaves, erect,
thread-shaped, whitish, each bearing a drooping flower. Calyx
five-cleft, purplish, with ovate straight segments. Petal one,
half-ovate or bellshaped, exactly resembling the lily of the valley, cut
half way down into five erect acute segments. Stamens ten, very short,
with horned anthers, scarcely longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the
length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish, with five obtuse angles, erect,
of five cells, with several seeds[1].
_July 20._
The people here use a kind of bread called _Blodbrod_ (Blood Bread),
made of small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a little quantity of
flour. This is baked or roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is
used only in hard times.
There are no common flies, bugs, nor snakes, on these Alps.
The Laplanders however abound with lice, which in winter are allowed to
freeze, when they turn red, and are easily killed. In summer they come
forth from the clothes, if exposed to the sun, and are then destroyed
with the nails, these people having no firelock to shoot them with[2].
I was informed that in this neighbourhood the inoculated small-pox is
remarkably fatal. If the patients have but seventy or eighty pustules,
they die of it as of the plague. They fly to the mountains, when
infected, and die. The same is the case with the measles. It appears
that both these diseases are aggravated by the violent cold, whence the
patients die in so miserable a manner[3].
Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent.
Sore eyes are universal, especially in the spring, when the Laplanders
remove towards the Alps. The glittering of the snow has then a
pernicious effect on their eyes. Aged people are very often blind.
Female obstructions are rare, though sometimes met with among the better
sort of people; neither are the _catamenia_ immoderate, nor in common so
copious as with us. The Lapland women are entirely ignorant of the
_leucorrh[oe]a_.
Of hysterics I met with but two cases. One maid-servant, twenty-four
years of age, had the complaint about once a year; another, about
thirty, was attacked with it monthly during the summer.
Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs are frequent; hence the forehead is
often seen full of scars (from the application of their _toule_, or
_moxa_; see _vol._ 1. _p._ 274).
Elderly people are often hard of hearing.
The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly sound, and they are in the habit
of sleeping or waking whenever they please.
A swelling, or falling down, of the _uvula_ is not uncommon, in which
case they frequently cut off the part affected.
When children are troubled with swellings in the glands about the
throat, the usual remedy is to prick the part, and suck out the blood,
which is considered as a speedy and effectual cure. If this method be
not adopted, they suppose the blood would rise to the head, and cause
cutaneous eruptions there.
Coughs are of very rare occurrence, notwithstanding the constant
practice of drinking snow- and ice-water, even after swallowing pure
grease or fat, which perhaps may prevent its bad consequences. However
this may be, the Laplanders seldom die from catching cold. Cases of
_phthisis_, or consumption, do indeed now and then occur among them, and
pleurisies are very common, especially in spring and autumn. Lumbago, or
pain in the back, is most prevalent during the summer. For this, as I
have already mentioned, _vol._ 1. _p._ 274, actual cautery, by means of
their _toule_, or _moxa_, is often applied.
Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens among those Lapland women who are
in the service of the colonists, and who, in consequence of certain
obstructions, are subject also to [oe]dematous swellings of the feet.