A map marked L², on a scale of 1:400,000, exhibiting the lines
respectively claimed by the two nations under the treaty of 1783, as
well as that adopted by the treaty of 1842, is herewith presented. By
reference thereto the operations of the several divisions during the
present and previous years will be better understood.
For a more particular view of the surveys and explorations made under
the direction of each of the commissioners, including descriptions of
the face of the country, navigation of streams, etc., the undersigned
respectfully refer to their respective narratives hereto appended, and
to the maps of detail deposited by each in the Department of State.
All which is respectfully submitted.
JAS. RENWICK,
A. TALCOTT,
JAMES D. GRAHAM,
_Commissioners_.
APPENDIX No. 1.
OPERATIONS OF THE DIVISION UNDER THE DIRECTION OF JAMES RENWICK, LL.D.,
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD.
I.--_Operations during the year 1841_.
1. At as early a period as there was any probability of the country
being accessible two engineers were dispatched from the city of New York
for the purpose of exploring the Rimouski River. This had been crossed
by the commissioner late in the previous season. It had been ascertained
that it took its source much farther to the south than was represented
on any map, and that at its head would be the greatest difficulty in the
intended researches. It was, besides, considered necessary that skillful
boatmen and practiced woodsmen should be engaged in Canada. These it was
believed could be found in Quebec, and the chief of this detachment,
with an appointment as acting commissioner, was directed to perform this
duty on his route.
This detachment accordingly left New York on the 22d May. On reaching
Quebec it was found that the proper persons could only be engaged at
Trois Rivieres. A delay was thus occasioned before this part of the duty
could be performed. The detachment, however, reached Rimouski 4th June,
where the snow was still found upon the ground and the river barely fit
for the access of boats. No time had therefore been lost, and the
reconnoissance of the river was successfully performed. The detachment,
after passing all the establishments of lumberers, extended its
explorations beyond the remotest Indian paths, and leaving its boats
penetrated on foot several miles to the south of the highest point
of the stream in which boats could float. In this progress through
unexplored ground a lake wholly unknown was discovered. The results of
this expedition were embodied in a map, which on examination by parties
furnished with better means was found accurate.
It was found by this party that the Rimouski presented difficulties
which would forbid its ascent by a party provided with stores and
instruments for the prosecution of a survey along the height of land,
and that it would be impracticable even to make it the route of an
expedition to reach its own source. The little knowledge which was
possessed of its upper course and the fact that it had probably never
been explored even by Indian hunters were accounted for by its
difficulty of access, which would forbid the carriage of a sufficient
supply of provisions for consumption during its ascent and descent. On
other streams difficulties of this sort had been and were afterwards
overcome by the use of the bateaux of the Penobscot, of greater burthen
and strength than the birch canoes, but the continual repetition of
portages on the Rimouski forbade the use of any vessel heavier than the
latter.
2. The main body of engineers, etc., was ordered to assemble in New York
on the 15th May, for which time a vessel was chartered for the purpose
of conveying them, with stores sufficient for an expedition of five
months and the necessary instruments and camp equipage, to Metis, on the
St. Lawrence. The experience of the former season had shown that the
country was so poor as to furnish little for the support of a numerous
party, and it was believed that even game and fish would be found scarce
at the points where supplies would be most needed. It was therefore to
be chosen between laying in the supplies in New York or in Quebec, and
while the great advantage of conveying all the important instruments
by sea turned the scale in favor of the former place, it has been
ascertained that the decision was in other respects correct, for the
dangers and difficulties of navigating the St. Lawrence might have
frustrated altogether, and would certainly have materially delayed,
the commencement of the main survey.
The sailing of the vessel was delayed, in expectation of the arrival of
instruments from Europe, until the 30th of May, when a sufficient supply
for beginning the operations arrived.
In the meantime Mr. Lally, one of the first assistants, was directed to
proceed to Bangor, in Maine, for the purpose of procuring boats and men
to manage them. These were obtained and brought down the Penobscot to
Castine, where they were on the 8th June embarked in the vessel which
carried the rest of the party, and which had orders to call at that port
for the purpose. The experience of the previous year had manifested the
great superiority of the bateaux of the Penobscot over all other vessels
in the navigation of shallow and rapid rivers. The physical energy and
enterprise of the boatmen of that river had also been known. It was
believed that it was not only essential that a considerable proportion
of the laboring force should be American citizens, but that much good
would result from emulation between the boatmen of the Penobscot and the
Canadian voyageurs. This expectation was in a great degree confirmed by
the result, for although it must be stated with regret that it became
necessary at an early period to discharge some of the Americans,
the remainder were models of intelligence, sobriety, industry, and
perseverance, and entered into the work, not with the feelings of hired
laborers, but with those of men who felt that the interest of their
country was at stake.
3. The commissioner did not leave New York until 30th of June, being
delayed in expectation of more instruments. A part of these only
had arrived, but further delay might have been injurious. Proper
instructions had been given for setting the party in motion in case it
could be organized before he joined it, but these were rendered nugatory
by the length of the vessel's passage. This did not reach Metis till
7th July, so that the commissioner, arriving on the 9th, was in time
to direct the first operations in person. The stores, boats, and
instruments had been landed and partially carried to a camp on the river
above the falls. A heavy rain on the 10th July rendered the roads almost
impassable, and it was not till the morning of the 12th that the first
detachment could be embarked. This was comprised of Dr. O. Goodrich,
the assistant commissary, two surveyors, and an assistant engineer. The
first was in charge of stores sufficient for six weeks' consumption. The
surveyors had orders to survey the river for the purpose of connecting
it with the line of exploration, and the latter was directed to make
barometric observations. The commissioner and the remaining engineers
were detained at Metis by the necessary astronomic observations. These
being completed, the instruments, camp equipage, and a portion of the
stores were embarked, and the main body proceeded up the river about
noon on the 15th July.
4. The river was found to be still swollen by the melting of the snows
on the highlands near its source, and, being at all times rapid, the
progress of the party was attended both with difficulty and danger. One
of the birch canoes, although managed by a skillful voyageur, was twice
upset, and one of the heavily loaded bateaux filled with water in a
rapid. The result of the first accident was unimportant, except as
respected the personal comfort of one of the party, who lost his
clothing when it could not be replaced; the second accident caused the
loss of some valuable stores. A guide had been procured in the person of
a Canadian who was said to have acted in the same capacity to Captain
Broughton, who had descended the river by order of the commissioners
of Great Britain in 1840. So long as the services of the guide were
unimportant he was found intelligent and acquainted with the country,
but on passing beyond the region usually visited by lumbering parties
he manifested a very scanty knowledge. It had been the intention of the
commissioner to ascend to Lake Metis and thence proceed to the height of
land by an old portage said to have existed from that lake to the one
at the head of the Grande Fourche of the Restigouche, which had been
explored by the commissioner in 1840. Lake Metis was chosen because all
former accounts, and particularly those of the surveyors of the joint
commission under the fifth article of the treaty of Ghent, represented
this as the body of water seen to the northwest of the termination
of the exploring meridian line. The guide appeared to confirm this
impression, and held out inducements that led to the belief that he was
acquainted with the portage in question. The nearer, however, it was
approached the less seemed to be his confidence. When there appeared
to be some reason to doubt his competency or his will, a place in the
river was reached where it divided into two branches of nearly equal
magnitude. On inquiry from the guide it was ascertained that the
easternmost of these was the main Metis, the other the Mistigougeche
(Riviere au Foin). Although the latter appeared to be the most direct
course to the boundary, it was still believed, and nothing could be
learned from him to the contrary, that the former led to the termination
of the exploring meridian line. The party of Dr. Goodrich had gone up
the Metis, and it was necessary to communicate with it before any change
in plan could be made. The commissioner therefore entered the main
Metis, and in the evening overtook the surveyors, who had been unable
to keep the survey up with the progress of the boats. An express was
therefore sent forward to stop the boats, and, the party encamping,
astronomic observations were made for the solution of the difficulty in
which it appeared to be enveloped. A detachment was also sent out to
explore to the eastward of the Metis. This reached the Lake of the
Little Red River, and from its banks took bearings to what appeared to
be the greatest mountain of the country. This is known by the name of
Paganet, and lies to the southwest of Lake Matapediac, forming a part of
the highlands which are so obviously described as the boundary of the
Province of Quebec in the proclamation of 1763. Its height was reported
to be probably 3,000 feet, but as it has appeared in the course of the
survey that heights in that region may easily be overestimated, it
can not be safely taken at more than 2,500 feet. The result of the
astronomic observations seemed to show that the main stream would lead
too far to the eastward, and after mature deliberation it was resolved
that the course should be retraced and the Mistigougeche ascended. The
first part of the operation was attended with little delay. Half an hour
sufficed for reaching the forks, whence the party had been six hours in
mounting. The guide also stated that the Mistigougeche was a much less
difficult stream than Metis. Of the comparative facility, except for a
few miles of the latter, no opportunity for judging was obtained; but
these were so difficult as to confirm his statement. On the other hand,
the former was found to be much worse than it had been represented by
him. His knowledge, in fact, was limited to its state in winter, for
it appeared from a subsequent interview with Captain Broughton to be
doubtful whether he had served in the employ of that officer; and it can
be well imagined that the river when locked up in ice should present
an aspect of far less rapidity than when rushing with its springtide
violence. The Mistigougeche was found to be intercepted by a fall of a
few feet, which could not be passed by the boats when loaded, although
the Penobscot men boldly and successfully carried theirs up when empty,
in which feat they were imitated by the voyageurs, who had at first
deemed it impossible. The loads of the boats were carried over a
portage, and in this operation the chronometers were found to deviate
from each other, showing a manifest change of rate in some or all of
them. This may be ascribed to a change in the mode of transportation,
but was more than could be reasonably anticipated, considering the
shortness of the portage (2,000 yards) and the great care that was taken
in conveying them. At some distance above the falls a lake of moderate
size was reached, embosomed in hills and embarrassed at its upper end
with grass. From the last feature it was ascertained that both lake and
river take their epithet of Grassy (Riviere an Foin, and, in Indian,
of Mistigougeche, or Grassy Lake). At this lake the party of the
commissioner was in advance of the loaded boats. A halt was therefore
made and a party sent out to explore to the westward. This party reached
an eminence whence a lake was seen, which the guide stated to be the
head of a branch of the Rimouski, far distant, as he averred, from any
waters of the Restigouche. Subsequent examination has shown that this
party had actually reached the height of land and that the survey of the
boundary might have been advantageously commenced from this point.
On leaving the lake the river was found to have a gentle current for a
few miles. It was then interrupted by a bed of timber, after passing
which it became as rapid as ever. In a short time, however, a noble
sheet of water was reached, surrounded by lofty hills, and of great
depth. At the upper end of this a place was chosen for a stationary
camp, and preparations were made for proceeding to the land survey.
While these were going forward with as much dispatch as possible, Mr.
Lally, one of the first assistants, was detached to reconnoiter the
inlet of the lake. During his absence observations were taken and the
rates of the chronometers worked up. Of the four instruments with which
the expedition was furnished, two had varied from the other two on
the portage. All were of good reputation, and no means existed of
determining on which pair reliance could be placed. From the rates
of two of them it appeared that the camp was situated 12 miles to the
northwest of the tree chosen by the American surveyors in 1818 as
marking the northwest angle of Nova Scotia. Actual survey has shown that
the distance is about 10 miles. The result given by the chronometers was
speedily confirmed by the return of Mr. Lally, who reported that he had
actually reached the marked tree, well known to him by his visit to it
the year before, and that he had pursued for a couple of miles the line
cut out subsequently by Captain Broughton.
6. The preparations being completed, Messrs. H.B. Renwick and Lally were
sent out, each at the head of a sufficient party, with instructions to
proceed together to the west until they reached waters running to the
Restigouche and then to divide, Mr. Lally proceeding to the northwest
angle and Mr. Renwick toward Rimouski. Each was directed to pursue as
far as possible the height of land and to remain in the field as long
as the supplies which the men could carry would permit. They were also
ordered to mark their path in order to insure a safe return, as well as
all the stations of their barometric observations. Bach of the laborers
was loaded with 56 pounds besides his own baggage and ax, and the
engineers and surveyors carried their own baggage and instruments. The
commissioner, with one assistant, remained in the stationary camp for
the purpose of determining the longitude accurately and of making
corresponding barometric observations.
7. In this place it will be proper to state that the lake which was thus
reached was ascertained with certainty to be that seen by the surveyors
of the joint commission in 1818, and which was by them supposed to be
Lake Metis. As it has no name yet assigned to it, it has been called
upon our maps Lake Johnson, in honor of the American surveyor by whom it
was first visited. It is 1,007 feet above the level of the sea, being
more than twice as much as the total fall assigned to the waters of the
Metis in the report of Messrs. Mudge and Featherstonhaugh. So great an
elevation in so short a course is sufficient to account for the great
rapidity of the stream. To illustrate this rapidity in an obvious
manner, the birch canoes, which on the waters of the St. John are easily
managed by one man, are never intrusted on those of the Metis to less
than two. Our departure from Metis in boats so deeply loaded, as was
afterwards learned, was considered there as a desperate attempt, and
although but one of them sustained injury, this is to be ascribed to the
great skill of the boatmen; and to show the velocity of the stream in a
still stronger light, it is to be recollected that, after deducting the
loss of time on the Metis, nine days of incessant labor were spent in
taking up the loaded boats, while the assistant commissary whom it
became necessary to send to Metis left the stationary camp at 2 o'clock
in the morning of the 28th July and reached the mouth of the river
before sunset of the same day, after making two portages, one of 2,000
yards and the other of 2 miles.
8. The first day of the operations of Messrs. H.B. Renwick and Lally was
attended with an accident which had an injurious effect. The surveyor of
Mr. Lally's party, Mr. W.G. Waller, fell from a tree laid as a bridge
across a stream and lamed himself to such a degree as to be incapable
either of proceeding with the party or of returning to the stationary
camp. It became necessary, therefore, to leave him, with a man to attend
him, in the woods, and it was a week before he was sufficiently
recovered to be able to walk. Intelligence was immediately sent to the
commissioner, by whom the assistant he had retained in camp to aid in
astronomic observations was sent to take the place of the surveyor. Two
days were thus lost, and the intended astronomic observations were far
less numerous than they might have been with the aid of a competent
assistant.
The two parties, proceeding together, reached Katawamkedgwick Lake. That
under the direction of Mr. H.B. Renwick immediately crossed it, while
that of Mr. Lally proceeded along the eastern bank for the purpose of
reaching the source of the stream. This being attained, the party of
Mr. L. pursued the height of land as nearly as possible and reached the
exploring meridian line. Crossing this, some progress was made to the
eastward, when a failure of provisions compelled a return to camp. The
party of Mr. H.B. Renwick, proceeding until the Rimouski was seen,
turned to the south and finally reached the southeasterly source of that
river, a point probably never before pressed by human foot, for it was
found to consist in a series of beaver ponds, in which that animal was
residing in communities and without any appearance of having been ever
disturbed. The low state of provisions in this instance also called the
party back, but not before every anticipated result had been obtained.
9. The party of Mr. H.B. Renwick having returned first, immediate
preparations were made for descending the stream. Before they were
completed Mr. Lally also came in, and both were assembled at Metis on
the 14th, whence the commissioner set out instantly for the river Du
Loup, which had been chosen as the base of further operations.
The circumstances of the operations up the Metis and Metis and
Mistigougeche had been upon the whole favorable. With the exception of
a single thundershower, no rain had been experienced; the country was
still sufficiently moist to insure a supply of water even upon the
ridges. The sun was observed daily for time and latitude, and the nights
admitted of observations of the pole star for latitude at almost every
camp. At the stationary camp, however, the mists rising from the lake
obscured the horizon and rendered the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites
invisible; nor was it possible to observe the only occultation of a star
which calculation rendered probable during the period in question. Much,
however, had been accomplished. A river little known had been carefully
surveyed some miles beyond its junction with a branch unheard of by
geographers. This branch had been explored, its course and length
determined; a path nearly coinciding with the boundary line for an
extent of 86 miles had been measured and leveled, and regions before
unseen visited. One accident of a serious character had occurred, and
one of the laboring men, although an _homme du nord_, seasoned in the
service of the Hudsons Bay Company, had been rendered unfit by fatigue
for further duty in the service; but with these exceptions the health
and strength of the party were unimpaired. All augured well for a speedy
and successful completion of the task in a manner as perfect as had been
anticipated.
10. Instructions had been transmitted to the commissary, as soon as it
was found that a portage to Katawamkedgwick and thence to Rimouski was
impracticable, to have a vessel ready at Metis to transport the stores
to the river Du Loup. One was in consequence chartered, but, being
neaped in the harbor of Rimouski, did not reach Metis till the 19th
August. When loaded, her sailing was delayed by an unfavorable wind, and
its continuance prevented her from reaching the river Du Loup before the
29th August. An entire week of very favorable weather was thus lost for
field operations, and it was not even possible to employ it to advantage
in observations, as all the chronometers but one and the larger
instruments, in order to expose them as little as possible to change of
rate or injury, had been forwarded from Metis in the vessel. With the
one chronometer and the reflecting repeating circle numerous
observations were, however, made for the latitude of the river Du Loup.
11. During the time the main body was engaged in ascending the Metis
and in the other operations which have been mentioned an engineer was
directed to proceed from Metis along the Kempt road for the purpose of
exploring along the dividing ridge between the waters of the Bay of
Chaleurs in the vicinity of Lake Matapediac and the St. Lawrence. This
line forms the continuation of that claimed by the United States, and
is important in its connection with the proclamation of 1763; but as it
falls without the ground which is the subject of dispute, it was not
considered necessary to survey it. The heights which could be reached
were therefore measured with the barometer, and the position of the
points at which the observations were taken referred to existing maps
without any attempt to correct their errors.
In the course of this reconnoissance an eminence 1,743 feet in height,
lying to the southeast of Lake Matapediac, was ascended. Thence was had
the view of a wide, open valley extending toward the southeast to the
Bay of Chaleurs and bounded on the northeast and southwest by highlands.
The former were pointed out by the guide as the Chic Choc Mountains, in
the district of Gaspe; the latter, it appeared beyond question, extended
to the Bay of Chaleurs, and strike it below the Matapediac. At the
latter place a party detached down the Restigouche in 1840 had measured
the height of Ben Lomond, a highland rising abruptly from the western
termination of the Bay of Chaleurs. and found it to be 1,024 feet. Thus
it appears beyond the possibility of doubt that a chain of eminences
well entitled to the name of highlands, both as dividing waters and
rising to the character of mountains, depart from "_the northern shore
of the Bay of Chaleurs at its western extremity_," bound the valley of
the Matapediac to the northeast, and, bending around the lake of that
name, separate its waters from those of the Metis. These are deeply cut
by valleys, whose direction appears from the map of the reconnoissance
and from the course of the tributary streams which occupy their lines
of maximum slope to run from southwest to northeast, or at right angles
to the general course of the highlands themselves. These highlands are
obviously those defined in the proclamation of 1763 and the commission
of Governor Wilmot.
12. As soon as the necessary instruments arrived from Metis at the river
Du Loup a party was detached to survey the Temiscouata portage, a line
known to be of great importance to the subsequent operations, but whose
interest has been increased from the unexpected frequency with which the
line dividing the waters touches or crosses it. Stores for a month's
service were transported with all possible dispatch to Lake Temiscouata,
along with the boats and camp equipage.
Two separate parties were now formed, the one to proceed up Temiscouata
Lake, the other to ascend the Tuladi. The embarkation of both was
completed at noon on the 4th September.
13. Mr. H.B. Renwick, with the party under his command, was directed
if possible to ascend the middle or main branch of Tuladi and form a
stationary camp at the highest point of that stream which could be
reached by boats.
Mr. Lally had orders to enter and follow the river Asherbish, which
enters Lake Temiscouata at its head, until the progress of his boats
should be interrupted. The first party was directed to operate in the
first place toward the west, the second toward the east, upon the height
of land until they should meet each other's marks. The party of Mr. H.B.
Renwick was directed, therefore, to proceed from the head of Tuladi and
reach if possible the head of Rimouski, thus forming a connection with
the line explored from the head of Mistigougeche; that of Mr. Lally to
proceed from the head of Asherbish along the height of land to the
Temiscouata portage. The commissary was then moved up with a large
amount of stores and halted on the summit of Mount Biort, to be within
reach of both the parties in case of a demand for new supplies, and to
receive them on their return.
14. The party of Mr. H.B. Renwick, having passed through Tuladi Lake,
entered the main stream of that name on the 5th September. The head of
it had been seen by that gentleman in September, 1840, and held out the
promise of abundance of water for navigation. This promise did not
fail, but it was found that the stream had probably never before been
ascended, and was therefore embarrassed with driftwood. After cutting
through several rafts with great labor, a place was reached where the
stream spread out to a great width over beds of gravel, and all further
progress in boats became impossible. It was therefore determined to fall
down the stream and ascend the western branch, well known under the
name of Abagusquash, and which had been fully explored in 1840. The
resolution to return was taken on the 6th, and on the evening of the
9th the beaver pond at the head of Abagusquash was reached; here a
stationary camp was established. One of the men had wounded himself with
an ax and three more were so ill as to be unfit for service. The numbers
were yet sufficient for short expeditions, and one was immediately
fitted out for the head of Tuladi with provisions to form a cache for
future operations. This expedition explored so much of the height of
land as would otherwise have been thrown out of the regular order in
consequence of the failure to ascend the main branch of Tuladi.
15. In the meantime Mr. Lally proceeded up Lake Temiscouata and entered
the Asherbish. This stream was also found very difficult, and on the
evening of the 7th no more than 7 miles had been accomplished on it.
At this point a stationary camp was fixed and a detachment sent out to
explore the neighborhood. On the 10th Mr. Lally set out to the eastward,
and struck the lower end of Abagusquash Lake on the afternoon of the
11th September. Being obviously too far to the south, he ascended that
stream and reached H.B. Renwick's camp on the evening of the 12th.
The next morning he proceeded to the height of land, and after twice
crossing it reached his stationary camp on Asherbish at noon on the
21st September.
On this expedition two out of three barometers were broken, and an
assistant was therefore sent to seek a fresh supply from the stores.
16. The expedition sent out by H.B. Renwick to the head of the Tuladi
returned on the 13th September. One of the men came in severely wounded,
and those left sick and wounded in camp were still unfit for service;
others also were taken sick. Of the laborers of the party, one-half were
thus lost for the present to the service. The engineer in command,
who had finished the observations for which he had remained in the
stationary camp, determined, therefore, to proceed to Mount Biort in
order to obtain men. Previous to his departure on the 15th September he
fitted out a second expedition with all the disposable strength for the
purpose of operating between the head of Tuladi and the point in the
height of land where Mr. Lally's line diverged to the southwest. The
newly engaged hands and the detachment on its return both reached the
camp on the Abagusquash on the 19th of September. On the 21st, all
arrangements having been completed, Mr. H.B. Renwick, leaving the
assistant commissary with only one man in the stationary camp, set off
toward the head of Rimouski. This course was pursued for six days, when
it became necessary to return for want of provisions, and the stationary
camp was reached on the 2d October. On this expedition the line of
exploration made in June up the Rimouski was intersected and the ground
traversed in July and August seen and connected with the survey, but
it was found impossible to penetrate along the height of land on the
western side of Rimouski to its head. On reaching the camp snow began
to fall, and the thermometer marked 18° in the morning. All further
operations for the season in this direction were therefore at an end.
A portion of the line which divides the waters falling into the St.
John from those falling into the St. Lawrence remained in consequence
unsurveyed. It can not, however, be said to be absolutely unexplored,
for it was seen from the eastern side of Rimouski, presenting the
appearance of a range of hills at least as elevated as any on the
boundary.
18. Mr. Lally having received a fresh supply of barometers on the
evening of the 23d, resumed his survey of the height of land on the 25th
September, and reached the camp of the commissary on Mount Biort on the
2d October, having surveyed and leveled the intermediate dividing ridge.
The party of H.B. Renwick descended the Abagusquash and Tuladi, and,
crossing Lake Temiscouata, reached the same rendezvous on the 5th
October. The interval was spent by Mr. Lally's party in clearing a space
for a panoramic view on the summit of Mount Biort.
19. The commissioner, having superintended in person the equipment and
embarkation of the parties of Messrs. H.B. Renwick and Lally on Lake
Temiscouata, returned to the river Du Loup for the purpose of making
astronomic observations. These being completed, he visited and conferred
with the parties of his colleague, A. Talcott, esq., on their way to the
height of land southeast of Kamouraska. Here he made arrangements for
the junction of the two lines on the Temiscouata portage. He then
proceeded to the camp of the commissary on Mount Biort, and there made
provision for the completion of the residue of the line in the vicinity
of the portage. He also selected points of view for the use of the
daguerreotype and camera lucida, and, being unable to do any more on the
ground for the furtherance of the objects of his appointment, returned
to New York, taking with him the earlier records of the field operations
for the purpose of organizing the office work.
20. Under the direction of Mr. H.B. Renwick, a party led by Mr. Lally
set off from Mount Biort on the 7th October, and, proceeding westward
along the portage road to the ridge of Mount Paradis, turned to the
south along the dividing ridge. This being pursued led them back to the
portage at a point about 21-1/2 miles from the river Du Loup on the
10th. The dividing ridge was now found for some distance to coincide
nearly with the portage road and to pass over the summit of the Grande
Fourche Mountain, a fact which had not before been suspected. The source
of the Grande Fourche of Trois Pistoles having been headed, the party
reached a station which the commissary had now established at the river
St. Francis on the 13th October. Departing from this, the basin of the
St. Francis to the north of the portage road was explored, and the
survey finished on the 17th October.
Operating from the St. Lawrence as a base, and within reach of a
cultivated country, whence numerous roads are cut to the height of
land, it would have been possible to have kept the field for perhaps a
fortnight longer. The plans and estimates of the division had been made
with this view, and it was anticipated that the height of land might
have been surveyed 30 miles to the south of the Temiscouata portage.
Although this would have been practicable, it would have been a service
of hardship. The necessity for this was obviated by the progress of the
parties of A. Talcott, esq., which completed their surveys up to the
portage on the same day that the surveys of this division were finished.
22. The circumstances under which the latter part of the survey was
performed from the time of leaving the river Du Loup, on the 3d
September, were far less favorable than had been experienced on the
Metis and its branches. The continual drought had at the beginning of
this part of the duty affected the streams and springs in such a way
as to render navigation difficult and water for drinking scarce on the
heights of land to which the survey was necessarily directed. On the
eastern side of Lake Temiscouata a large fire had extended itself into
the woods. On the Temiscouata portage the persons in charge of that road
had set fire to the brush and wood cut in opening it out to an increased
breadth, and a belt of flame 30 miles in length was at each change of
wind carried in some new direction into the dry forest. The camp and
collection of stores on Mount Biort were thus threatened for several
days, and only saved by great exertions. Serious apprehensions were
entertained lest the return of the parties in the field might be
obstructed by the spreading of their own fires. The smoke of this vast
extent of combustion obscured the heavens and rendered astronomic
observations difficult or prevented it altogether. Finally, a season of
unprecedented drought was closed on the 24th of September by the setting
in of the equinoctial storm, and from this day until that on which the
survey terminated few hours elapsed without rain, sleet, or snow. In
spite of these obstacles, it is believed that the State Department will
have no reason to be dissatisfied with the results of the campaign.
23. The results of the operations of this division are embodied in a map
and profiles, which are herewith presented. The degree of reliance to be
placed on this map will be best understood from a detail of the methods
employed in preparing it.
The river Metis and its branch, the Mistigougeche, were surveyed by an
azimuth compass of Smallcaldus construction, and the distances measured
by a micrometric telescope by Ertil, of Munich. The courses of the rest
of the lines were determined by compasses of similar construction, and
the distances measured by chains of 100 feet constructed by Dollond, of
London, and Brown, of New York. An exception to this general rule exists
in the survey of the eastern side of Rimouski. The courses and distances
thus measured, and corrected for the variation of the compass, were
compared with astronomic observations for latitude and with longitudes
deduced from chronometers. For this reason, as the line on the east side
of Rimouski is almost in the direction of the meridian, it was not
considered necessary to lose time in measuring it when the latitude of
the several camps, determined by observations of the pole star, were
taken nightly.
The latitudes of the courses under the direction of Mr. H.B. Renwick
were determined by a reflecting repeating circle of Dollond; those on
Mr. Lally's by a good sextant. The latitudes and times at Grand Metis,
the river Du Loup, and the stationary camp on Mistigougeche and
Abagusquash were principally determined from observations made with the
Dollond circle. Lunar transits were taken at the river Du Loup, and
distances of the moon for longitude at several places on the line. The
reliance for the longitudes was, however, principally upon timekeepers,
and of these the party was furnished with one box and two pocket
chronometers by Parkinson & Trodsham, one pocket chronometer by
Molyneux, one by French, one by Barraud, and one by Morrice. Thus, while
several could be retained at the station, each party in the field was
furnished with two, and the measured distance furnished a check, which,
in case of discrepancy, that on which greatest reliance could be placed
might be ascertained. It is sufficient to say that the deductions have
been in general satisfactory, although the rough motion to which
these instruments were subjected in passing through pathless woods,
embarrassed by fallen trees and morasses in which the bearers often
sunk to the middle, caused changes of rate and even sudden variations.
Uncertainty arising from these causes was rendered less to be dreaded
from its being possible to refer, as a base of operations, to the
excellent survey of the St. Lawrence River by Captain Byfield, of the
British navy. With the geographical positions given in his charts our
own observations agreed so closely as materially to confirm the
respective accuracy of both.
24. The point which in this part of the survey has been kept in view as
most important is the determination of the heights. For this purpose the
party of Professor Renwick was furnished with the following barometers:
Two loaned by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey, of his own
construction; two portable and one standard, by Neurnan; three of the
siphon form, by Buntin, of Paris; one by Traughton & Simms; one by
Forlin, of Paris; three of siphon form, by Roach & Warner, of New York;
two by Tagliabue, of New York, originally on the plan of Durand, but
which had been advantageously altered by Roach & Warner in such manner
as to admit of the adjustment of the level of the mercury in the
cistern.
The stations at which the lower barometers were placed were Grand Metis
until the return of the expedition up the river of that name, and the
river Du Loup from that time until the close of the survey. At these
places all the barometers not actually in the field were suspended and
registered at the hours most likely to correspond with the observations
of a traveling party, say at 6, 7, 8, and 9 in the morning, noon, 1, 5,
and 6 in the afternoon, until as the season advanced and the days became
short the earliest and latest of these hours were omitted. Although
several barometers were thus constantly observed, no other use of these
was made but to determine their comparisons with each other, except one
of the barometers of Mr. Hassler, Superintendent of the Coast Survey.
This, from its superior simplicity, being, in fact, no more than the
original Tonicillean experiment, with a well-divided scale and
adjustment of its 0° to the surface of the mercury in the cistern, was
found to be most certain in its results. All the barometers used by the
parties in the field were therefore reduced to this by their mean
differences.
The stations at the two above-mentioned places were near the St.
Lawrence. At Metis the height of the cistern of the standard barometer
was determined by a spirit level. At the river Du Loup the height of the
station was determined by two sets of observations of barometers, taken
with different instruments by different observers, and at an interval of
a week from each other. The results of the two several sets, which were
calculated separately, differ no more than 0.5 of a foot from each
other.
On reaching the highest accessible points of the streams on which the
parties proceeded toward the height of land, stationary camps were
established, as has been already stated. At these series of observations
were made at the same hours as at the river stations. The height of
the former was then calculated from a series of observations taken at
noon and at 1 p.m. for the whole of the time the camp was occupied.
The heights of the points at which observations were made by the
traveling party were then deduced from a comparison with the nearest
contemporaneous observations at the stationary camp. An exception to
this rule was made in the observations to the westward of Temiscouata
Lake, which were referred directly to those made at the river Du Loup,
which was sufficiently near for the purpose.
The height of the stationary camp at Mount Biort having been determined
by observations continued for several days, the level of Lake
Temiscouata was thence determined by using a set of levels taken with a
theodolite by Breithaupt, of Cassel, in 1840. The height of the lake
thus deduced is greater than it would appear to be from the barometric
observations taken in December, 1840. It had been imagined that a
difference in level might exist between the St. Lawrence at Metis and
at the river Du Loup. Four days of contemporaneous observations were
therefore made at each with a view to the solution of this question.
The idea of a difference of level was not sustained by the operation.
The heights of the river stations were measured in each case to the
highest mark left by spring tides, and half the fall of that tide as
given by Captain Byfield has been added in all cases as a reduction to
the mean level of the sea. Opportunities were offered in a few instances
for testing the accuracy of the method by different barometers used by
different observers at different days on the same point. No discrepancy
greater than 7 feet has been thus discovered. In other cases the same
observer returned and observed at the same places, and here a similar
congruity of result has been found to exist.
The whole of the calculations have been made by the formulae and tables
of Bailey. Before adopting these their results were compared in one
or two instances with those of a more exact formula. The differences,
however, were found so small as to be of no importance, amounting in the
height of Lake Johnson to no more than 5 feet in 1,007. The original
record of the barometric observations, each verified by the initials of
the observer, have been deposited in the State Department.
25. The paths pursued by the traveling parties were marked by blazing
trees. The position of the barometer at each place of observation was
also marked. The operation was a search for the boundary line in an
unknown country, hence it rarely happened that the path of the parties
has pursued the exact dividing line of the waters of the St. Lawrence
and the Atlantic, but has been continually crossing it. The maps
herewith submitted and the marks by which the line of the survey has
been perpetuated would have enabled a party sent out for that especial
purpose to trace the boundary on the ground without difficulty other
than that arising from the inacessible character of the country.
26. The commissioner can not speak in too high terms of the industry and
perseverance manifested by the engineers and surveyors employed on this
division, and in particular of the skill and intelligence of the two
first assistants. Circumstances had prevented the receipt of portable
astronomic instruments which had been ordered from Paris and Munich, and
an instrument formed by the adaptation of a vertical circle to the lower
part of an excellent German theodolite by Draper, of Philadelphia, was
found on its being opened at Metis to have received an injury which
rendered its accuracy doubtful. The whole reliance for the greatest
accuracy was thus thrown on the repeating circle of Dollond. Such,
however, was the address and skill of the engineer to whom it was
intrusted that he not only fulfilled the object for which it was
intended, of determining the position of the points visited by the
traveling parties, but accomplished the same object at the stationary
camps and at the river stations, without delaying for an hour the
operations of the survey.
The duty which these gentlemen performed was arduous in the extreme. It
has been seen that on the expedition up the Metis a seasoned voyageur
had been worn out by the severity of his labors; on the Tuladi half the
men were sick at a time; and of Mr. Rally's party two Penobscot Indians
of herculean frame were compelled to return by extreme fatigue. The
engineers, while in the field, were even more exposed to fatigue than
the laborers, for they carried their own baggage and instruments, and
were engaged nightly in observation and calculation, while the workmen
could repose.
27. The commissioner to whom the survey of the northern division of the
boundary line was intrusted has to express his acknowledgments for the
politeness and good offices of the authorities of Her Britannic Majesty.
In compliance with his request, permission was granted by the late
lamented Governor-General for the admission of a vessel and the entry of
the stores, camp equipage, and instruments of the party at one or more
ports on the St. Lawrence. Letters were addressed by the principal
secretary of the colony of Canada to all the officers and magistrates,
directing them to give every facility to the operations, and these
directions were obeyed, not as mere matters of form, but with a truly
hospitable spirit. To the officers of the Sixty-eighth Regiment, forming
the garrison of Fort Ingall and occupying the post of the river Du Loup,
as well as to the officers of the commissariat on duty at those places,
acknowledgments are due for numerous attentions.
II.--_Operations of the year 1842_.
1. Of the task originally assigned in the instructions for this division
there remained to be completed--
(1) A portion of the boundary claimed by the United States around the
head waters of the river Rimouski.
(2) The line of highlands forming the south bounds of the Province of
Quebec, extending from the north shore of the Bay of Chaleurs at its
western extremity.
2. Experience had shown that the portion of the boundary which remained
unsurveyed could not be reached with any hope of completing the survey
by any of the streams running into the St. Lawrence nor from the waters
of Lake Temiscouata. The Green River (of St. John) was therefore chosen
as the line of operation. It was known that a portage existed between
its boatable waters and those of the Grande Fourche of Restigouche. The
plan for the work of the season was therefore laid as follows:
To proceed up Green River with a party, thence to cross to the Bell
Kedgwick by the portage, and having, by expeditions from the banks of
that stream, surveyed the remainder of the claimed boundary, to fall
down the stream to the Bay of Chaleurs, and, ascending the highland
measured in 1840, to proceed along the heights in order to reach if
possible the northwest angle of Nova Scotia.
The work being the most remote and difficult of access of any on the
whole boundary, it was necessary to take measures early, and, it being
apparent that if they were not vigorously pressed the whole summer's
work would be frustrated, permission was granted by the Secretary of
State to prepare stores and provisions, and the party was sent forward
toward its line of operations. Care was, however, taken, in conformity
with his instructions, to secure means of communication.
3. The transportation of stores, equipage, and instruments was rendered
unexpectedly easy by a steamboat running from Portland to St. John, and
by the politeness of the British consul at Portland and the collector of
Her Britannic Majesty's customs at St. John free entrance was permitted
at the latter port. These articles were shipped from Portland the 19th
of June and under the charge of the Hon. Albert Smith reached the Grand
Falls of St. John July ----.
4. Mr. Lally, first assistant engineer, with the surveyor, was
dispatched by the way of Bangor and Houlton to the same point of
rendezvous on 18th June for the purpose of procuring boats and engaging
laborers. Mr. H.B. Renwick, first assistant, with Mr. F. Smith, second
assistant, were placed in charge of the chronometers and the necessary
astronomic instruments, with instructions to observe on the meridian
of the St. Croix at Houlton, and again at its intersection with the
river St. John, for the purpose of ascertaining the rate taken by
the chronometers when carried. These preliminary operations being
successfully performed, the party was completely organized at the Grand
Falls of the St. John on the 2d July. The energy and activity of the
persons intrusted with these several duties was such that this date of
complete preparation for the field duties was at least a week earlier
than any calculation founded on the experience of former years rendered
probable. The commissioner, advised of the negotiation in progress, had
made his arrangements to reach the Grand Falls of the St. John on the
10th July. Being directed by the State Department to remain in New York,
he sent orders by mail to the party to halt until further instructions.
5. These orders were not received, for the party, being fully organized,
left the Grand Falls in three different detachments on the 4th, 6th,
and 8th of July. The first detachment was composed of the surveyor,
Mr. Bell, and an engineer having instructions to make a survey of Green
River. The second was in charge of the assistant commissary, and was
composed of three bateaux and fourteen pirogues, carrying stores and
equipage for three months' service. The third was formed by the two
first assistants, who, after performing the necessary astronomic
observations at the Grand Falls and at two points on Green River, passed
the surveying party and reached the portage between Green and Kedgwick
rivers on the evening of the 13th July.
6. Green River has a fall and rapids near its junction with the St.
John, which are passed by a portage of 1-1/2 miles. At 15 miles from its
mouth is a second fall, which is passed by a portage of 82 yards. The
stream for this distance and for 5 miles above the second fall is very
rapid, its bed being in some reaches almost filled with rocks. For the
next 10 miles it has deep still reaches, alternating with gravel beds,
or else the river flows over ledges of rock. It is then interrupted by a
third fall, requiring a portage of 176 yards. Thence to the second fork
of the lakes it has the same character as for the last 10 miles, except
that in some places it flows with a gentle current between low banks
covered with alder. From the second fork of the lakes to the southern
end of the Green River and Kedgwick portage the stream is very narrow
and may be styled one continuous rapid. It is upon the whole the most
difficult of navigation of all the streams running into the St. John
from its northern side, and approaches in its character of a torrent
to the waters on the St. Lawrence side of the highlands.
7. The portage from Green River to the South Branch of Kedgwick is 5-1/4
miles in length, and passes over the summits of two of the highest
mountains in the ceded district, as well as several ridges. No vessel
heavier than a birch canoe had ever before been carried over it. It
therefore became necessary to clear it out before the bateaux and other
heavy articles could be transported. Fifteen extra laborers, who had
been engaged, with their pirogues, to carry some of the stores from the
St. John, were retained to aid in making this portage, which swelled the
number to twenty-seven. This large force was industriously engaged for
eight days in carrying the stores and equipage over the portage, with
the boats and canoes required for the future operations of the party.
In the meantime the portage was surveyed, and a great number of
observations were made, by which the latitude of the southern end of the
portage and its difference in longitude from that of the meridian line
were determined with great accuracy. In addition to the other labors of
the party, a storehouse and observatory were erected.
8. The commissioner, learning that the party had left the Grand Falls
before his letter could have reached that place, addressed fresh orders
to the engineer in command. These were sent under cover to the British
postmaster at Lake Temiscouata, who was requested to send them up Green
River by an express. By these he was directed to stop the progress of
the party and to proceed himself to the river Du Loup, there to await
fresh instructions.
These orders did not arrive in time to prevent the party intended for
the survey of the boundary from setting out. The engineer who had
hitherto been in command returned to the St. John in pursuance of his
original instructions and met the express on his way down Green River.
The commissioner, being advised on the 13th July that the treaty had
been signed, immediately dispatched a special messenger, who joined the
chief of the division at the mouth of Green River on the 24th July.
Measures were now taken for the recall and return of the party in the
woods, and the whole division was assembled at the stationary camp at
the north end of the portage on the 11th of August.
9. The party engaged in the survey of the remaining part of the boundary
line had before the orders of recall reached them successfully
accomplished that duty, having connected their survey with points in the
survey of the previous year and thoroughly explored the culminating
points of the valley of Rimouski. As had been anticipated from the level
of the streams seen in 1841, this portion of the boundary claimed by the
United States is more elevated than any other portion of that line
between the Temiscouata portage and the northwest angle of Nova Scotia.
This survey would therefore have added an important link to the argument
of the United States had not the question been settled by treaty.
The party having received its orders of recall, all the articles of
equipment which could not be carried in the boats which had been
launched on the waters of the Restigouche were transported to the other
end of the portage and embarked in pirogues sent up Green River for that
purpose under the direction of the assistant commissary. The engineers
then set out on their return by the Bell Kedgwick, the Grande Fourche,
and the Southwest Branch of Restigouche. Ascending the latter stream,
this party reached the Wagansis portage on the 21st August, and arrived
at the Grand Falls on the 25th August.
The descent of the Bell Kedgwick was attended with great difficulties
in consequence of the low state of the waters. Until its junction with
Katawamkedgwick, to form the Grande Fourche of Restigouche, it was
necessary to drag the boats by hand.
10. The detailed map of the surveys of this division, exhibiting the
more important points whose altitudes were determined by the barometer,
has already been lodged in the Department of State under date of 27th
December.
Although the interest of this survey to the United States has now passed
away, yet, as it is probable that many years may elapse before this
country shall be again explored, and as it may still possess some
interest to the nation into whose undisputed possession it has now
fallen, it may not be improper to state the methods employed in the
survey, for the purpose of showing to what degree of faith it is
entitled.
The latitude and longitude of the mouth of Green River were furnished by
Major Graham. The three portages on that river were surveyed by chain
and compass. The courses on the navigable parts of the river were taken
with a compass and the distances measured by a micrometrical telescope
by Ertil, of Munich. This instrument, which had given satisfactory
results on Metis and Mistigougeche in 1841, was still more accurate
in the present survey. The latitude of the south end of the Kedgwick
portage as given by the plot of Green River on the original projection
differed no more than 5" from that given by numerous astronomic
observations, an agreement so close that it might be almost considered
as arising from happy accident. This survey therefore required but
little correction, which was applied from the observations already cited
and from those at two intermediate points.
The survey of Kedgwick portage was performed with chain and compass. In
the woods between the Bell Kedgwick and the boundary and along the whole
line of survey the same method was used, observations for time and
latitude being also taken whenever the weather permitted. As the lines
intersected those of the last year, it can now be stated that every part
of the boundary claimed by the United States, from the height of land on
the Temiscouata portage which divides the waters of the Green River of
the St. Lawrence from those of the St. Francis to the northwest angle of
Nova Scotia, as well as its connections with the St. Lawrence and Lake
Temiscouata by the Temiscouata portage, and with the St. Lawrence a
second time by the Metis and Mistigougeche, and with the St. John by
Green River, has been actually surveyed. This result is one that neither
the Department in its original instructions nor the commissioner on
his first view of the country had contemplated. In stating this the
commissioner feels it his duty to acknowledge his obligations to the
untiring zeal and energy of the gentlemen who have acted under his
orders, and especially to his two first assistants, who, entering upon
duties of an entirely novel character, not only to themselves, but
to the country, have in the course of the operations of two years
accumulated under the most disadvantageous circumstances a stock of
observations which for number and accuracy may compare with those taken
with every convenience at hand by the most practiced astronomers.
In addition to the latitude of numerous points determined astronomically
by the party engaged in surveying the line through the woods, the
latitude of a point near the southern end of Green River and Kedgwick
has been determined by eighty-six altitudes of sun and stars taken with
a repeating and reflecting circle.
The whole number of altitudes of sun and stars taken during the
expedition for time and latitude was 806.