STORM AND SANITARY DRAINAGE WITH SEWAGE DISPOSAL IN VIEW
The accompanying drawing of storm and sanitary drains should be
studied in detail by the reader. The location of each trap and
fitting should be studied carefully and the reason that it is put
in that particular place should be thoroughly understood. Below,
each plan has been taken and gone over in detail, bringing out the
reasons for fittings and traps, also the arrangement of the piping.
[Illustration: FIG. 46.]
The first thing to note in Fig. 46 is the number and kinds of
fixtures to be drained. There is in the basement a set of
three-part wash trays. This will require a 2-inch waste and a
1-1/2-inch vent. There is in the drawing a 2-inch waste extending
to the fixtures above. On the same line is a rain leader with a
trap showing also a 4-inch floor drain. There are two 4-inch rain
leaders on the opposite corners of the plan, in the rear of the
building. There is a 4-inch soil stack for fixtures above and a
4-inch soil stack in the basement on the same line for a basement
toilet. On the front there are rain leaders in each corner. These
will be connected outside of the house trap (this feature should be
noted). The outlets that are to discharge into the house drain are
as follows:
Two 4-inch rain leaders.
One 2-inch sink waste.
One 2-inch wash tray waste.
One 4-inch floor drain.
One 4-inch soil pipe.
One 4-inch closet connection.
Two 4-inch front rain leaders to discharge into house
sewer.
If we were to install this job, we would first locate each pipe
that enters the house drain. The lowest outlet would be
particularly noted, in this case the 4-inch floor drain. From this
drain we must make sure that at least 1/4 inch to the foot fall is
secured. We must then locate the house sewer where it enters the
foundation wall, then the work can be started. I will not attempt
to list the material that is necessary for this work, at this time.
With all the material at hand the house drain is started. All of
this work is installed under the ground, therefore trenches must be
dug for all the piping. The plumber must lay these trenches out and
in doing so he must have in mind all connections and the fittings
he can use so that the trenches can be dug at the right angle. The
trenches must be dug allowing a pitch for the pipe. The height of
the cellar is 8 feet below the joists. A stick is cut 8 feet long
which can be used to get the trenches below the cement floor at the
right depth. After the digging is completed, the house trap, which
is a 6-inch running trap, is caulked into a length of 6-inch
cast-iron pipe. This piece of pipe is pushed out toward the sewer
bringing the trap near the foundation wall, on the inside. The
fittings and traps and pipe are caulked in place as fast as
possible. When possible, the joints are caulked outside of the
trench in an upright position. There are a number of different ways
to caulk this pipe together, and to make it clear to the beginner
just how it is done the following exercise is suggested. This job
brings in the caulking of pipes, traps, and fittings in various
positions. Two or three can work on this job together. Fig. 47
shows how the pipe and fittings are put together, which needs no
further explanation. Therefore, we will go over in detail only the
caulking of the joints in the various positions.
[Illustration: FIG. 47.]
MATERIAL NEEDED.--One length of 4-inch extra heavy cast-iron pipe,
single hub; two lengths of 4-inch extra heavy cast-iron pipe,
double hub; one running trap, one full Y, one 4-inch 1/4 bend; two
4-inch clean-out screws with iron body; one 4-inch vent cap; one
4-inch 1/8 bend; 30 pounds of block lead; 2 pounds of oakum.
TOOLS REQUIRED.--Ladle, asbestos pourer, hammer, cold chisel,
yarning iron, two caulking irons, furnace and pot.
The beginner should start at the trap and caulk the joints with the
trap held in place. The cold chisel should be sharp as it is used
to cut the cast-iron pipe.
To caulk the straight end of cast-iron pipe into the hub end and
make a water-tight joint when the pipe is in a vertical position,
the spigot end of the pipe is entered into the hub end of another
piece. A wad of oakum is taken and forced into the hub with the
yarning iron. This piece of oakum is forced to the bottom of the
hub, then another piece is put in. The oakum is set and packed by
using the yarning iron and hammer. The hub is half filled with
oakum. The oakum is forced tight enough to make a water-tight
joint. If the oakum used comes in a bale, pieces of it will have to
be taken and rolled into long ropes about 18 inches long, the
thickness of the rope corresponding with the space between the hub
and the pipe. If rope oakum is used, the strands of the rope can be
used. After the oakum is well packed into place and the pipe is
lined up and made straight, molten lead is poured in and the hub
filled. When the lead has cooled, set the lead with the caulking
tool and hammer, making one blow on each side of the joint. This
sets the lead evenly on every side. If there is any surplus lead,
it can now be cut off, using the hammer and cold chisel. The
caulking iron is again taken and the lead next to the pipe is
tamped, striking the iron with the hammer at an angle to drive the
lead against the pipe. After this has been done all around, the
caulking iron is held in such a position that the lead around the
hub will receive the force of the blow. After this has been done,
the center of the lead is caulked and the joint should be tight.
With a little practice, this can be done very rapidly. The lead
should be poured in while it is very hot. The caulking must not be
done by hitting heavy blows as there is a possibility of splitting
the hub and thereby rendering the joint unfit for use.
CAULKING JOINT IN HORIZONTAL POSITION.--It is necessary in a great
many cases to caulk a joint in a position where the lead would run
out of the joint unless provision were made to hold it in. To
caulk a joint in a position of this kind, the pipe is lined up and
secured, then the oakum is put in and forced to the bottom of the
hub. Then a joint runner, which is an asbestos rope about 2 feet
long and about 1 inch in diameter, is fitted around the pipe and
forced against the hub where it is clamped by means of an attached
clamp. The clamp is put on the top of the pipe and so arranged that
a channel will be left in a V shape. This channel allows the hot
lead to run between the asbestos runner and the hub. When the lead
has had a chance to cool, the asbestos runner is taken off. Where
the clamp was, there will be a triangular piece of lead sticking
out beyond the face of the hub. This piece has to be cut off, but
no attempt should be made to do so until it has been caulked in
place and well set; also the rest of the lead should be set. Then
the cold chisel can be used and this extra piece of lead taken off.
The caulking of the lead in this position is the same as in the
previous position and should be carried out closely. The beginner
should understand that it is necessary to have not only the joints
tight so that running water will not leak out of them, but that the
joints must stand a water test. The testing of soil stacks is
explained under another heading. The lines of cast-iron pipe depend
to a considerable extent upon these joints to make the whole line
rigid.
CAULKING OF FITTINGS.--The caulking of fittings, while done the
same as a straight pipe, is far more difficult. The improper making
of these joints is the cause of many leaks. A long sweep fitting is
caulked without a great deal of difficulty. If a short bend fitting
is used, the matter of caulking is difficult. The fitting is so
short that it is almost impossible to get a caulking iron into the
throat. The mechanics will have to work at the throat from each
side until this part has been sufficiently caulked. I call
attention to this point, for I know it to be a failure in a large
number of jobs when it comes to put the test on. In order to caulk
the fittings, they must be put in their exact location and
positions before the lead is poured in, for after the lead is once
in the fitting cannot be moved. When there is a series of fittings
on a line, their positions in relation to each other must be
considered before the lead is poured.
[Illustration: FIG. 48.]
[Illustration: FIG. 49.]
[Illustration: FIG. 50.]
[Illustration: FIG. 51.]
Fig. 48 shows the same fixture and stack connections as Fig. 46.
Two 4-inch lines run through the cellar, one a sanitary drain, the
other a storm drain. Each 4-inch line has an intercepting trap. On
the sewer side of these traps the two lines are brought together,
beyond which point the two front rain leaders connect; each of the
two front leaders is trapped separately.
[Illustration: FIG. 52.]
Fig. 49 differs from the preceding one in only two points. First,
the two front leaders are brought into the cellar and connected
into the storm drain on the house side of the intercepting trap.
Second, the storm and sanitary drains are connected on the outside
of the building.
Fig. 50 shows the same fixtures collected into a 4-inch house
drain, and the rain leaders run entirely on the outside of the
building. This plan is a good one as all the storm water is kept
entirely outside the building. If the storm drains are kept 5 feet
away from the cellar walls (see Plumbing Code) the pipes can be of
tile. Another good feature of this plan is that all the pipes under
the cellar are 4-inch.
Fig. 51 is similar to Fig. 46, the difference being in the location
of the floor drain and the connection of the two rear rain leaders,
into the house drain.
In Fig. 52 the drains shown take the waste and storm water from the
apartment building, also a building set in the rear. The leader
pipes in this case are trapped on the outside of the wall. The
building in the rear you will note has a separate fresh air inlet
and house trap, and the house sewer is continued through the front
house and connected into the house drain of the front building, on
the sewer side of the intercepting trap.
These drawings should be studied carefully and the student should
in each case list correctly all of the material required for the
installation of these jobs.
[Illustration: FIG. 53.--Cutting cast-iron pipe.]
CUTTING CAST-IRON PIPE.--To cut cast-iron pipe, a sharp cold chisel
and hammer are needed. The pipe is marked all around, just where it
is to be cut. Then it is laid with the part of the pipe that is to
be cut resting on a block of wood. A groove is cut with the hammer
and chisel around the pipe. One person can turn the pipe while the
other does the cutting. After a little experience one man can cut
and roll the pipe alone. This groove is cut deeper and deeper until
the pipe breaks apart. If standard pipe is being cut, a file is
generally resorted to for cutting the groove. On account of the
lightness of the pipe, a hammer and chisel will crack the pipe
lengthwise. When cutting extra heavy cast-iron pipe, a good heavy
blow must be struck to cause the chisel to cut into the iron. After
a few cuts, the beginner will understand the weight of blow that
must be struck to cut the pipe quickly.