PREPARING AND WIPING JOINTS (_Continued_)
TWO-INCH BRASS FERRULE
MATERIALS.--The beginner should continue wiping the vertical round
joint until he is able to obtain a symmetrical bulb. A joint should
be wiped in each of the foregoing positions for exhibition
purposes, so that the beginner can have before him the best work
and strive to make the next joint better. This next joint, the
2-inch brass ferrule, is wiped in an upright position. The
materials necessary are the 2-inch brass ferrule, 6 inches of
2-inch light lead pipe, paste and paper, 1/2 and 1/2 solder, rosin,
wiping solder, catch pan, and supports.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
TOOLS REQUIRED.--The tools necessary for this work are as follows:
the saw, rasp, drift plug, dresser, file, soldering iron, bending
irons, wiping cloths, shave hook, and ladle.
PREPARATION.--The lead pipe must be fitted into the brass ferrule.
The brass ferrule has to be tinned first. To do this, proceed as
follows: file the ferrule for about 2 inches on the tapered end. Do
not file too deep, but just enough to expose the pure bright metal.
Now measure from the small end 1-1/4 inches down toward the beaded
end. From this point to the bead, cover the brass with paste and
paper. No paste must get on the 1-1/4-in. filed end. This end
should not be touched with the fingers. If paste gets on it, the
process of filing must be done over again as the solder will not
stick where there is paste. If the brass ferrule is filed while the
paper is on the brass, the filing will destroy the straight edge of
the paper and an even joint cannot be made. It would therefore be
necessary to re-paper the brass. Take some powdered rosin and cover
the filed end of the ferrule with molten solder using the rosin as
a flux. Do not dip the end of the ferrule into the hot wiping
solder to tin it or pour wiping solder on the brass ferrule. This
method of tinning the ferrule will spoil the wiping solder. Always
use the soldering iron to tin the ferrule as explained above. A
little practice will develop the use of the iron in the hands of
the beginner so that this tinning process will be done very
rapidly. The iron should be put on to heat when the paper is being
pasted on the brass; the iron will then be ready for use when
needed.
PREPARING THE LEAD.--The ends of the lead pipe must be squared with
the rasp. All kinks and dents are taken out by using the drift plug
and driving it through the pipe. Take a piece of smooth pine stick
and start to beat in the end of the lead pipe to fit the brass
ferrule. The pipe should be beaten in starting about 3/4 inches
from the end. It should be beaten in very slowly until it fits the
ferrule. The pipe is held in the hand all the time and considerable
time should be spent on this as it is the first time the beating in
of lead pipe has been called for. The knack of doing this comes
only by slow and continued practice. The lead must be "humored"
into shape and not "driven" into shape. The end of the pipe is
tapered still more by rasping off the end. About 3/4 inch should
extend into the brass ferrule. With the bending irons, the lead
extending into the brass ferrule is beaten against the inside wall
of the ferrule. A good way to do this is to wedge the lead pipe in
as much as possible at first, then lay the work flat on the bench,
in which position it is more easily worked. The sketch should be
thoroughly studied and each notation be perfectly understood,
before proceeding with the work. Now that the lead pipe is
perfectly fitted into place, it is prepared for wiping. The joint
overall will be 2-1/2 inches. As we have already allowed 1-1/4
inches on the brass ferrule for the joint, the lead will have to be
cleaned that much more. With the shave hook, shave the end of the
pipe that has been fitted into the brass ferrule. A space about 4
inches should be cleaned. This will give a cleaned surface free
from dirt and grease for the paste and paper to adhere to. Next
paste the paper in place. The lead pipe can be entirely covered, or
3 or 4 inches only, above the 1-1/4 inches allowed for the joint.
The space between the paper on the brass and the paper on the lead
should now be 2-1/2 inches. The paste and paper should now be
allowed to dry.
SUPPORTING THE PIPE.--This joint is wiped with the ferrule down on
the bench. A flat pan is laid on the bench and the ferrule stood
upon it. A weight on top of the lead pipe is all that is necessary.
If this does not make the pipe rigid enough for the beginner, then
a support similar to the round vertical joint support can be used.
The beginner is advised, however, to practice the wiping of this
joint with only the weight to hold it in position. The beginner
will then be required to wipe the joint while the solder is hot,
when it does not require a heavy pressure against the solder to
wipe it in shape. These wiped joints should be supported in place
near the furnace that heats the solder so that the solder will be
handy for wiping.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Two-inch brass ferrule.]
WIPING.--Wiping this joint brings in some of the methods of the
round vertical joint. If that joint was thoroughly mastered, this
joint will be wiped considerably more easily. The ladle is held in
the right hand and the solder splashed on the joint. The catch
cloth is held in the left hand and some of the solder is caught and
brought up on the top edge. The top edge cools quickly as all the
hot solder runs down to the bottom edge and into the pan. As the
solder accumulates on the bottom edge, it is drawn up on the top
edge, and in this manner the top edge is kept hot. When the solder
can be worked freely around the pipe and the edges are hot, the
joint is ready to wipe. The ladle is laid down and the wiping cloth
is taken in the right hand and the top edge of the joint cleaned on
one side. Then the wiping cloth is changed to the left hand and the
other side of the top edge is cleaned. Holding the cloth in one
hand with the index and the third fingers spread to the outside
corners of the cloth, the cloth is passed around the joint quickly.
To get an even and symmetrical joint, it is necessary to make two
or three passes around the joint holding the cloth first in the
right and then in the left hand. The free hand is used to steady
the work. This joint should be wiped very slim to allow room for
the caulking irons to pass by it and get into the hub of the pipe.
Constant wiping on the brass ferrule will result in the tinning on
the brass ferrule coming off. The ferrule will look black when this
happens and will thus be recognized. The wiping should then be
stopped and the ferrule filed and tinned in the same manner as it
was done at first.
POINTS TO REMEMBER.--
_First_, material--6 inches of 2-inch light lead pipe and one
2-inch brass ferrule.
_Second_, tin ferrule, using soldering iron.
_Third_, use a soft pine stick for a dresser.
_Fourth_, fit the lead into the ferrule.
_Fifth_, clean and paper the lead.
_Sixth_, secure the pipe into position.
_Seventh_, using the catch cloth and ladle, splash solder on
the joint.
_Eighth_, keep the top edge covered with solder.
_Ninth_, wipe the top edge first.
_Tenth_, shape and finish wiping with a few strokes.
_Eleventh_, tools used.
_Twelfth_, wipe a slim joint.
_Thirteenth_, steady the work with the free hand.
_Fourteenth_, re-tin the ferrule, if necessary.
FOUR-INCH BRASS FERRULE
The 4-inch brass ferrule joint is the same as the 2-inch, except
for size. The materials needed for this joint are 6 inches of
4-inch, 8-pound lead pipe, and one 4-inch brass ferrule, one _full_
pot of solder, some paste and paper, rosin, and 1/2 and 1/2 solder.
TOOLS NECESSARY.--The tools required for this joint are as follows:
saw, rasp, file, ladle, soldering iron, dresser, bending irons,
shave hook, and wiping cloths.
PREPARATION.--_Lead Pipe._--With the saw cut off 6 inches of
4-inch lead pipe. This pipe comes in lengths and should be for this
work about 8 pounds to the foot in weight. The pipe may be dented
badly, but these dents can be taken out as follows: Take a piece of
2-inch iron pipe and put it in a vise. The lead pipe can be slipped
over this iron pipe and any dents taken out easily by beating with
the dresser. One end of the lead pipe is beaten with the dresser
until it fits into the ferrule. The end is then rasped a little.
Then, after the brass ferrule has been tinned, the pipe is fitted
into it and beaten out against the inside wall of the brass ferrule
and a tight joint is made. The lead is next cleaned with the shave
hook and paper is pasted on as explained under the 2-inch brass
ferrule, the description of which should now be read over.
[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Four-inch brass ferrule.]
_Brass Ferrule._--The first thing to do with the brass ferrule is
to file the end that is to be wiped. When the brass ferrule is
filed, it should be done away from any part of the room where the
filings are likely to get into the solder. After the filing has
been done, paper is pasted on all of it except the part that is to
be tinned and no paste must get on to this part of the ferrule. If
any paste does get on to it, the filing will have to be done over
again. When using paste and paper, neatness must be cultivated, or
paste will be spread over parts of the pipe that are supposed not
to have any paste on them. Next, take the soldering iron and heat
it. Take some rosin and put it on the exposed part of the ferrule.
With the hot soldering iron proceed to tin the brass ferrule, as
explained before, with 1/2 and 1/2 solder, using rosin as a flux.
Now the lead pipe that has previously been prepared is fitted into
the ferrule.
SUPPORTING.--Set the brass ferrule on a catch pan. The lead pipe is
upright. A weight placed on top of the lead pipe will steady the
pipe for wiping. When the joint is wiped the free hand can hold the
pipe if the weight is not sufficient to support it.
[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Four-inch brass ferrule.]
WIPING.--Splash the solder on the joint from the ladle, in the same
manner as was employed in the two preceding joints. To get the
proper heat on the 4-inch joint a little more speed is necessary,
also the constant working of the solder around the pipe. The ladle
is constantly moved around the pipe so that all parts of the pipe
will be evenly heated and come into contact with the hot solder
direct from the ladle. When the solder works freely around the pipe
and the top edge is hot, the joint is shaped by holding the wiping
cloth in the right hand, with the index and the middle fingers
spread to the opposite corners of the cloth. The fingers are placed
one on the top edge and one on the bottom edge. The cloth is then
passed around the joint as far as possible. Then the cloth is taken
in the left hand, with the fingers spread, and passed around the
rest of the joint. If the solder does not take the shape of the
cloth readily, then the solder is not at the right heat. This joint
should be wiped very slim to allow room for the caulking tools.
When this joint is once started, it should not be left until it
has been wiped, otherwise a large amount of solder will accumulate
on the joint and will be hard to get off.
POINTS TO REMEMBER.--
_First_, material.
_Second_, tools.
_Third_, tin ferrule.
_Fourth_, use the dresser to fit the lead into the ferrule.
_Fifth_, clean the lead with the shave hook, and paper.
_Sixth_, use the catch cloth and ladle.
_Seventh_, keep the top edge covered with hot solder.
_Eighth_, wipe the top edge first.
_Ninth_, make a slim joint.
_Tenth_, steady the work with the free hand.
STOP COCK
MATERIALS REQUIRED.--The materials used for this joint are as
follows: two pieces of 5/8-inch extra strong lead pipe 9 inches
long, each; one 1/2-inch plug stop cock for lead pipe; paste and
paper; solder; 1/2 and 1/2 solder; rosin; catch pan and supports.
[Illustration: FIG. 28.]
TOOLS NECESSARY.--The tools necessary for this job are as follows:
saw, rasp, file, turn plug, shave hook, bending irons, hammer,
ladle, soldering iron, and wiping cloths.
PREPARATION.--There are two joints to be wiped on this job and the
stop cock is supported only by the rigid fitting of the lead pipe.
Therefore the preparation must be thoroughly done. The brass stop
will be prepared first.
_Brass._--The two ends of the stop cock are filed bright, then
papered and tinned. This operation is the same, only on a smaller
scale, as the tinning of the 2-inch and the 4-inch brass ferrule.
The paper is pasted over the entire stop cock, except the two ends,
which are tinned for about 1-1/4 inches.
_Lead Pipe._--After the lead pipe has been cut off from the coil,
the ends are squared with the rasp. One end of each piece is reamed
out a little with the tap borer and spread a trifle with the turn
pin. With the rasp, take off the outside edge of the end that has
been spread. The sketch will show this and give the angle at which
the edge is to be rasped. The stop cock is now fitted into the lead
pipe. The brass should enter at least 1/4 inch, then the lead is
beaten against the brass until a tight joint is made. The other end
of the brass stop is fitted into the other piece of the lead pipe
and a perfect fit is made. The fitting of these two joints must be
rigid as upon them depends the stability of the joint support. When
these ends of the lead pipe have been fitted, the pipe is cleaned
with the shave hook and paper is pasted on, allowing 1-1/2 inches
for the joint. Both pieces of pipe are prepared at the same time as
both ends are wiped at the same time.
SUPPORTING.--The three pieces of pipe should be so wedged together
that they will not fall apart when put in position for wiping. The
bricks for supporting the pipe are placed the same as in the
support of the horizontal round joint. The lead pipe ends are laid
on the bricks. This brings the stop cock in the center without any
support. If it were not for the substantial fit between it and the
lead pipe, it would not stay in place. Solder straps can be put
over each end of the lead pipe. Weights can be used to advantage.
WIPING.--When getting the heat up for these joints, pour the solder
over the two joints and over the stop cock. This gets the heat
properly distributed, so that both joints can be wiped while the
brass stop is heated. Get the proper heat up on one joint and then
the other. Come back to the first joint and wipe it and then the
second one. Both joints should be wiped so as to have the same
shape. The novice will experience some trouble when wiping this
joint in getting the brass edge hot. Heating up the two joints
together will in a large degree offset this trouble. Some mechanics
take out the lever handle stop to lessen the amount of brass to
heat. This is never done by a good mechanic as the two pieces will
never fit together again and make a tight joint. If the plug is
left in place, both the plug and body will expand equally and the
pieces will fit perfectly. When wiping is started on these joints,
the beginner must stay at it continually. When the brass is heated,
the finished wiping can be tried over and over again. If this way
is not followed, the beginner will find that most of his time will
be spent trying to get a heat on the brass.
[Illustration: FIG. 29.--Stop cock.]
BRANCH JOINT
MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials necessary to complete this job are
as follows: 12 inches of 5/8-inch extra strong lead pipe for the
run; 6 inches of 1/2-inch extra strong lead pipe for the branch;
paste and paper, and solder.
TOOLS NECESSARY.--The tools necessary for this job are the saw,
bending irons, rasp, tap borer, ladle, wiping cloths, and the shave
hook.
[Illustration: FIG. 30.--Branch joint.]
PREPARATION.--The preparation of this joint requires the skill of
the beginner more than any of the preceding joints. The tapping of
the 5/8 pipe for the branch connection, pasting and cutting the
paper, require the utmost care and precision. The 5/8-inch pipe is
tapped with the tap borer in the center. The tap borer is used by
grasping the handle firmly and putting the cutting point on the
mark and then pressing down on the handle. This forces the point
into the lead. Now turn the tool and a piece of lead will be bored
out. Continue this operation and a hole will very soon appear in
the lead. A hole just large enough to allow the bending irons to
enter is made. The opening of the hole is completed with the
bending iron, working the lead back slowly into place. Do not
attempt to drive the lead back around the hole with a few strokes.
One bending iron is inserted and this iron is struck with another
iron or hammer. After a number of strokes the opening will be of
sufficient size. The bent end of iron is inserted into the hole and
the bent part enters the bore of the pipe. This iron is struck in
such a way as to force the lead around the hole up, rather than
back. Now with the straight end of irons open the sides. When the
wall of pipe has been driven up a little the hole can be enlarged
by driving back the lead. This procedure will form a collar around
the hole to steady the branch pipe. Good workmanship will result in
having a good substantial collar around the opening. The branch
should now be fitted. Clean the pipe with the shave hook for about
2 inches on each side of the opening. With compasses set at 1-1/8
inches, mark off a space on each side of the branch on the run, or
on the 5/8-inch pipe. On the sides of the pipe the two lines should
be joined with an even and symmetrical curve. A good way to make
this curve is with the shave hook. Now take a folded piece of paper
and cut out the shape of one-half of the joint, then open the fold
and the entire ellipse will be made. When this paper is cut, a
sharp knife is used, otherwise a ragged edge will be made and a
good finish of joint is impossible. The paper is now pasted and put
on the pipe. The surplus paste on the edge of the paper should be
wiped off with the fingers before the paper is put on the pipe.
This prevents any paste squeezing out on the joint. The branch is
now taken and perfectly fitted into the run. The end is cleaned
with the shave hook and paper is pasted on the pipe, leaving 1-1/8
inches of cleaned surface for wiping. The paste and the paper
should now be allowed to dry. The position for wiping this joint is
to have the run horizontal and the branch on an angle of 45 deg.
pointing away from the wiper. Figure 30 will bring out the above
explanation very vividly.
SUPPORTING.--The run of this joint is laid flat on the table and
the branch inserted in its proper place. With one hand hold it in
place, with the other, use the bending iron, tap the collar on the
run against the branch, wedging it in place good and strong so that
no solder can leak through. If the branch is tapered with the rasp
as shown the joint can be made very tight. The run of the pipe is
now laid on two bricks as was done with the horizontal joint. The
branch is laid over on a pile of bricks or wood at an angle of 45 deg.
The best way to secure this joint is to pour some half-molten
solder on the ends of pipe and brick, making a solder clamp. This
branch does not need any clamp or weight if it is properly entered
into the run. A strap of solder can be run over the end of pipe if
found necessary. Place the catch pan under the joint and then the
pipe will be ready to wipe.
WIPING.--In wiping this joint, the catch cloth is used not only to
catch the solder as it drops off from the pipe, but also to hold
the hot solder against the pipe to heat the under side of the
joint. Test the solder and see if it is the correct heat for
wiping. If so, prepare for wiping. After heating the ladle, take
some solder in it and proceed to drop the molten solder on the
joint. The ladle is moved constantly as the solder is dropped on
the run and then on the branch to get the entire joint to the
proper heat. As the solder drops off from the joint, it is caught
on the catch cloth and brought up on the top of the joint where it
is re-melted by dropping hot solder on it. Then the hot solder is
held in the cloth against the under side of the joint to get the
under side properly heated. The solder is worked around all parts
of the joint. When the heat is got up sufficiently and the solder
works freely around the joint, the branch cloth is taken and each
edge of the joint is wiped clean. Any surplus solder is brought up
on top of the joint and then wiped on the catch cloth. This solder
is then put on the under side of the joint. With the branch cloth
reach way around the joint and wipe each side, bringing the cloth
each time to the top and then off the joint. The last wipe is
directly across the top, wiping off any surplus solder that may
have accumulated from wiping the sides. The difficulty with this
joint is in getting the top and bottom to have an equal amount of
solder. With a little practice and by watching each motion your
faults can be noted and remedied. If the paper starts to come off,
it should be re-papered at once. When the joint is finished, it
should be left in position until the solder has had time to set and
cool, otherwise the branch will break off and considerable time
will be lost in correcting the trouble.
POINTS TO REMEMBER.--
_First_, the use of the tap borer.
_Second_, the use of the bending irons.
_Third_, do not allow the bending irons to touch the inside walls
of the pipe when stretching the opening.
_Fourth_, secure the branch into the run.
_Fifth_, secure the pipes into position for wiping.
_Sixth_, spread the heat on the edges and the bottom of the joint.
_Seventh_, wipe with the branch cloth.
_Eighth_, cut the paper.
_Ninth_, mark the outline of the joint.
BRANCH JOINT PLACED FLAT
When the wiper has mastered the branch joint placed at an angle of
45 deg., he can proceed to wipe the joint placed in the next position,
which is flat.
PREPARATION.--The preparation of this joint is identical with the
preceding one placed at an angle of 45 deg. If a new joint is to be
prepared, it would be well to pay strict attention to the details,
such as keeping the paste on the paper only and having the edge of
the paper cut perfectly smooth and even. Before putting on the
paper see that the pipe is free from all grease and dirt. The paste
and paper will stick better if all the dirt is removed. The branch
should be well fitted into the run of the pipe so that no solder
will get into the bore of the pipe. The branch should not extend
into the run of pipe enough to obstruct the bore of it. If the
instructions for preparing the pipe are not carried out as
detailed, the wiper will experience some trouble that he may find
hard to overcome.
SUPPORTING.--The run can be supported on bricks. The branch can be
supported on a brick placed at its end the same height as the run.
This will bring the joint in the correct flat position. The branch
should point away from the wiper. Solder straps can now be poured
over the ends of each pipe. If weights are used to hold the pipe
firm instead of solder straps, they should be so placed that they
will not interfere with the hands when wiping.
WIPING.--The wiping of this joint is more difficult as the beginner
will experience trouble in heating the bottom and keeping the
solder on the bottom. Solder is dropped on the joint and along the
pipe so as to bring the pipe to the proper wiping heat. Some solder
will accumulate on top of the joint. This is melted off on the
catch cloth and this hot solder held against the bottom of the
joint. This operation is repeated until the bottom as well as the
top of the joint is heated properly. When the solder can be worked
freely around the pipe, the branch cloth is taken and each side is
wiped from the bottom toward the top. Solder is accumulated on the
top where it is wiped off on the catch cloth and put on the bottom
of the joint. Now reach way around each side and wipe the edge and
body of the joint, a wipe across the top completing the joint. The
bottom can be wiped with a cross wipe also if desired. The top and
the bottom should be identical. Notice carefully the drawing of
this joint and endeavor to have the same lines. The perfecting of
these joints comes only with patient practice. The beginner must
not get discouraged because of a burn or two. As soon as confidence
in oneself has been gained, the possibility of burning the fingers
is entirely eliminated.
BRANCH VERTICAL
The materials, tools, and preparation for this joint placed in a
vertical position are just the same, practically, as those in the
preceding branch joints. One or two points wherein they differ are
mentioned below. To rigidly support the joint for wiping, allow the
run of the pipe to rest on some bricks as before mentioned, with
the branch looking up. Now take a piece of wood and drive a nail
through one end of it about 1 inch from the edge. Let this nail
enter the bore of the vertical branch. The wood is allowed to rest
on the back of the bench or is braced against the wall. Supporting
the pipes in this way will allow the wiper perfect freedom. When
wiping this joint, splash the solder on from the ladle as on the
upright joint. As all the sides of this joint can be seen, it is
not a difficult matter to make a perfectly symmetrical solder bulb.
When the proper heat is gained, the top edge of the joint is wiped
first, then the lower curved edge, using the branch cloth. The body
of the joint is then wiped and the joint finished with a cross
wipe, if necessary.
BRANCH HORIZONTAL
The next position for this joint is to have the branch pipe
horizontal and the run vertical. The materials, tools and
preparation for this joint are the same as for the preceding ones.
The supporting and wiping differ a little.
SUPPORTING.--One end of the run is placed on the catch pan. The
other end is held in place the same way as the branch was held in
the preceding joint. If the pictures of this joint are carefully
looked over, the methods employed to hold the pipe will be readily
noted. The branch is best held by inserting one end of a bending
iron in the bore of the pipe and placing the other end of the iron
on a brick built up to the right height. The iron should be
weighted to keep the joint from swaying.
WIPING.--The solder is now dropped on the branch as in the round
joint, and splashed on the vertical run as in the upright joint.
Sufficient solder is put on the joint to keep the edges covered
with hot solder. Solder is worked around the joint until all parts
of it are thoroughly heated and the solder works easily, then all
the edges are wiped clean. The top half is then wiped evenly and
the bottom half wiped to match the top half. A cross wipe in front
completes the joint. When this cross wipe is made on any joint, a
thick edge of solder must not be left. The edge must be wiped
clean. This joint should be wiped first with the branch pointing to
the right and then with the branch pointing to the left. It will
take the beginner some time to master these branch joints, for not
only must they be wiped symmetrically for the sake of appearances,
but they must be wiped while the solder is hot to secure a tight
joint. A joint that is wiped with solder that is too cold will be
porous and will leak when put under pressure. With care the same
pipe can be used throughout for all the positions of this branch
joint.
ONE AND ONE-HALF-INCH BRANCH JOINT
Upon the completion of the small sized branch joint in its various
angles, the 1-1/2-inch branch joint is to be wiped. This branch
joint is wiped in the same positions as the 5/8 branch was wiped.
The pipe being larger, there is more solder for the wiper to
handle, and the edges to keep clean and to wipe are longer.
MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials needed for this job are 12 inches
of 1-1/2-inch light lead pipe for the run, and 6 inches of
1-1/2-inch pipe for the branch, paste, paper, solder, and catch
pan.
TOOLS NEEDED.--The tools necessary for this job are the saw, rasp,
shave hook, bending irons, drift plug, hammer, ladle, wiping
cloths, and tap borer.
PREPARATION.--To an experienced wiper, the procedure of preparing
this joint and wiping it are so near like the 5/8-branch joint that
a detailed description would be unnecessary; but for the benefit of
the beginner, I will repeat the details as they apply to this
particular joint and thereby avoid any error. We will take the
preparation of the run first. Square the two ends of the pipe with
the rasp. Mark off the center of the pipe. With the round part of
the rasp, held at right angles with the pipe, proceed to rasp down
the crown of pipe where the center mark was made. Do not rasp
through the wall of the pipe, but just enough so that the tap borer
will enter the pipe with only a slight pressure. With the tap
borer, tap a hole large enough for the bending irons to enter. Now
proceed to enlarge the hole, first forcing the edges up and then
forcing them back, making the hole larger and making a collar
around the hole at the same time. Continue to open the pipe until
the aperture is large enough for the branch pipe to enter. The
bending irons must not come into contact with the inside wall of
the pipe, for if they do the inside bore will be marred and be very
ragged. As these joints are usually used on waste lines, these
ragged places make an ideal place for lint and grease to collect
and cause a stoppage. To make the inside of the hole even, a piece
of 1/2-inch pipe can be used in place of the bending irons. To cut
out the oval from a piece of paper to fit the joint, fold the
paper and cut out one-half of the oval. Now unfold the paper and
the complete oval is obtained. The measurements of the oval are
taken from Fig. 30, 1-1/8 inches each side of the branch lengthwise
of the run. These two lines are connected with a curved line as
shown. This curved line can be made with the shave hook. Take the
large edge of the shave hook and roll it along between the lines to
be joined. A little practice will perfect one in doing this
quickly. The beginner should make a number of these ovals so that
he can get them perfect. The graceful appearance of this joint
depends upon the neatness with which it is prepared. I do not want
the beginner to think that a graceful shape of the joint is all
that is to be desired or that it is the most essential point.
Further along, perhaps, more vital requirements will be brought out
and the beginner will be made acquainted with them.
The ends of the 6-inch piece are now squared with the rasp. The
edges of one end are rasped off as shown in the sketch, making a
wedged fit into the run. This end is then cleaned with the shave
hook. Paper is then pasted on to cover the pipe except the 1-1/8
inches cleaned on the end. This cleaned part forms part of the
joint, therefore no paste or paper must be put on it. The pipe is
now fitted into the run and the collar beaten against it with the
bending irons. The run is now cleaned with the shave hook for about
3 inches each side of the center. The paper oval cut out is now
pasted on the joint. The paste and paper are then allowed to dry
before they are handled further.
SUPPORTING.--The supporting of this joint, which is placed with the
branch on an angle of 45 deg. pointing away from the wiper, is not a
difficult matter. The beginner can use his own ingenuity for
supporting the pipe if conditions do not warrant the using of the
methods previously described.
WIPING.--The solder should now be tested for heat. If the solder is
at the proper heat, the ladle is taken and heated. Take a ladle
full of solder and drop the solder on the joint. The lead of which
this branch joint is made is considerably lighter than any lead
that has been used before. Therefore, the beginner must drop the
solder on carefully, making sure that the solder is not dropped on
the same spot, for a hole can be burned through the pipe very
quickly. The ladle must be kept moving, then the solder will not
burn through the pipe. The heat is got up on the pipe by dropping
the solder on the run and on the branch, catching the surplus
solder on the catch cloth and heating the under side of the joint
with it. To form the joint, distribute the solder and then wipe it
into shape. Notice that I said wipe it into shape. A beginner is
very apt to try to push or poke it into shape. This must not be
done as it has a tendency to make the joint lumpy. All the edges
are wiped off clean first, then the body of the joint is shaped and
wiped. When forming the joint, be sure that the bottom and the top
are symmetrical. Do not have one-half larger than the other. The
last wiping strokes are made swiftly and rapidly. If the wiper will
watch his movements and note the results and then try to improve
them, keeping in mind that a symmetrical joint is wanted with thin
edges, perfection in wiping will come much more quickly than if no
attention is paid to the strokes made when wiping.
BRANCH JOINT WIPED FLAT
The materials required for this joint do not differ from the
preceding one. If the pipe used for the branch joint at a 45 deg. angle
is in good shape, it can be used for this joint by simply changing
positions. The tools needed will not be any different. The ladle
and the wiping cloths, of course will be required. A pair of pliers
can be used to advantage in picking up the hot solder. The wiping
cloths should receive a little more oil to keep them soft and
pliable. Oil the edges of the cloths well.
SUPPORTING.--To support this pipe for wiping have each end rest on
a brick. Each end can be weighted to hold it in place.
WIPING.--To wipe this joint, proceed to drop the solder on the
joint. When the pipe is thoroughly heated and the solder works
freely around the pipe the joint can be wiped. The procedure is
like the preceding one. The wiper is cautioned to move the ladle
constantly while dropping the solder.
BRANCH HELD VERTICAL
After a number of the previous joints have been wiped successfully,
the pipe is placed in such a position that the branch will be
vertical. The supporting of the pipe to hold the joint in this
position for wiping is very easily done after handling the 5/8-in.
joint in this position. The following points may be found helpful:
The solder is splashed on the joint from the ladle. The top edge of
the joint is kept hot by keeping the solder covering it. When the
proper heat has been got up, the top edge is wiped first, then the
bottom edges both front and back. The body of the joint is wiped
last and a cross wipe finishes the joint. I have found that the
beginner in many cases, when this joint is reached, tries to wipe
it with many short strokes. The habit is a bad one and should be
stopped as soon as noticed. Learn to wipe the top edge with only
two strokes, the bottom edge with not more than four, the body of
the joint with four, and one cross wipe to finish. This joint
should be finished as symmetrically as possible and wiped while the
solder is hot.
RUN HELD VERTICALLY
When the vertical branch has been conquered and the wiper can get a
good joint every time it is tried, the pipe can be changed to a
different position. The run is placed in a vertical position and
the branch horizontally to the left. The catch pan is put under the
end of the pipe. Follow the same directions for supporting this
joint as were given under the 5/8-in. branch placed in a similar
position. The wiping of this joint is so nearly like the preceding
branch joints that I will not give any instructions at all. This
joint is finished at the same point that the other branch joints
are finished. However, there are one or two matters that should be
kept in mind. Some of the small matters are often overlooked and
should be called to mind occasionally. Do not allow the solder to
accumulate in the pan. If the cloths are burned, they should be
turned, or new ones made. If the paper has started to come off from
the pipe, new paper should be put on at once. Test the solder
occasionally and see that it does not get too hot. Upon completion
of the joint in this position, the branch joint in its various
positions is finished. The beginner has found out while wiping
these various joints a number of points that were not mentioned in
my description. No amount of detailed description will make a good
joint wiper. Patience and practice are as important in joint wiping
as good preparation and good solder.
POINTS TO REMEMBER.--
_First_, materials--18 inches of 1-1/2-in. lead pipe.
_Second_, use of tools.
_Third_, keep bending irons away from the wall of the pipe.
_Fourth_, make a good collar around the opening.
_Fifth_, make a tight fit with branch and run.
_Sixth_, hot solder will quickly burn through the lead.
_Seventh_, use branch cloth for wiping.
_Eighth_, cut out paper for joint even and symmetrical.
BIB
This joint is another brass to lead, and is the last single joint
to be wiped in this course of joint wiping.
MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials required for this joint are as
follows: 10 inches of 5/8-inch extra strong lead pipe; one 1/2-inch
brass sink bib for lead pipe; one pot of solder, paste and paper,
1/2 and 1/2 solder, catch pan, and supports.
[Illustration: FIG. 31.]
TOOLS REQUIRED.--The tools required for this job are the saw, rasp,
tap borer, bending irons, file, ladle, wiping cloths, shave hook,
knife and rule, soldering iron.
PREPARATION.--To prepare the lead pipe after cutting from the coil
and squaring the ends with the rasp is very similar to the 5/8-inch
branch joint. The center of the pipe is marked and a hole is made
in it with the tap borer large enough to admit the bending irons.
The hole is enlarged with the irons. A good substantial collar is
made around the hole to hold the bib in place. One and one-eighth
inches are marked off on each side of the branch and an easy curve
connects the two. The paper is then cut out and pasted on the pipe
after it has been scraped with the shave hook.
The end of the brass bib is filed bright and tinned with the
soldering iron and 1/2 and 1/2 solder. Before the tinning is done,
paper is put on the brass, leaving only 1-1/8 inches exposed. The
tinning must be thoroughly done, or it will come off and have to be
re-tinned.
SUPPORTING.--The bib is fitted into the lead opening and the collar
is forced against the bib to hold it in place and prevent any
solder from leaking through into the bore of the pipe. The bib
must not extend too far into the lead pipe or it will obstruct the
flow of water. The lead pipe is laid on two bricks the same as the
round joint. The bib is laid on an angle of 45 deg. pointing away from
the wiper. Some bricks can be piled up to the right height to hold
the bib in place and a solder strap can be made to hold it steady.
The lead pipe can be held steady by weighting each end. The catch
pan is now placed under the joint and everything is ready for
wiping.
[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Bib.]
WIPING.--When the solder is hot, getting the heat on the pipe is
started. Solder should be dropped oftener on the brass bib than on
the lead pipe. It takes more heat to heat the brass thoroughly than
it does the lead. If this is followed out, little difficulty will
be had in getting up the heat and in wiping. Use the branch cloth
for wiping and make sure that all edges are perfectly cleaned
before making the final strokes. As this is the only position that
the joint will be wiped in, practice should be continued until
perfect joints can be obtained.
POINTS TO REMEMBER.--
_First_, materials needed.
_Second_, tools needed.
_Third_, use tap borer.
_Fourth_, enlarge hole with bending irons.
_Fifth_, make substantial collar around the opening.
_Sixth_, paper the lead.
_Seventh_, file the bib, then paper.
_Eighth_, tin the bib.
_Ninth_, place in position and wipe.
DRUM TRAP
The making of the drum trap will bring out the skill of the
beginner. The entire trap is made of lead pipe. The lead will
require a great deal of handling. Therefore, care must be exercised
in all operations to turn the trap out in a workmanlike manner.
MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials needed to complete this job are:
10 inches of 4-inch 8-pound lead pipe; 18 inches of 1-1/2-inch
light lead pipe; paste and paper, support, solder, and catch pan.
TOOLS NEEDED.--The tools required for this job are: saw, rasp,
bending irons, shave hook, bending spring, tap borer, dresser,
ladle, drift plug, and wiping cloths.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Drum trap.]
PREPARING.--Take the 10-inch piece of lead pipe and hold it in one
hand, in the other hand take a pine dresser. Strike the lead pipe
with the dresser. The pipe is struck about 2 inches from the end
and is beaten evenly all around. The pipe is then struck nearer the
end until finally the bore of the pipe is almost closed. This
closed end should be rounding and symmetrical. To get this shape
the pipe must be continually moved and turned. One side must not be
forced in more than the other. If there are any dents in the pipe
or part of the pipe is forced in too much it may be driven out as
follows: Take an old piece of 1/2-inch lead pipe and round one end
of it with a hammer; this can be used by hitting the inside of the
closed end of the drum and forcing out the dents. The rounded end
of the trap is not quite closed and a hole about 3/4 inch is left.
This opening is closed by shaping the edges of it with the knife,
making them smooth and beveled. Then a piece of lead is cut out of
some scrap, the same shape as the hole and fitted into it. The top
surface of this fitted piece should be a little lower than the
surface of the pipe. Strike a circle, using the compasses, the
center of the circle being the center of the inserted piece of
lead. The lead inside of this circle is shaved clean with the shave
hook, including the inserted piece. Paper is then pasted outside of
the circle and should cover entirely the rest of the pipe. The
inserted piece is wiped on the pipe as follows:
WIPING END.--Stand the 4-in. pipe in a pan with the rounded end of
the pipe up. Be sure that the inserted piece is fitted securely.
The solder is now dropped on the paper and shaved portion of the
pipe. Exercise considerable care not to burn a hole in the pipe. As
the hot solder runs off, catch some of it and draw it back on the
joint. When the solder can be manipulated freely and the pipe is
hot, the joint can be wiped. The cloth is drawn across the joint,
cleaning all the edges with one stroke. The joint should be shaped
to complete the rounding surface of the pipe. The joint is
comparatively easy and will not occupy much time. As soon as it is
wiped, cover the solder with paper. This will preserve the
freshness of the joint until all wiping is completed.
PREPARING INLET PIPE
After the above joint is completed, the 1-1/2-in. branch inlet pipe
is prepared and wiped in place. The center of this branch is
marked on the 4-inch pipe and a hole is tapped in the pipe, using
the tap borer. A hole large enough to admit the bending irons is
made. The hole is enlarged with the bending irons, bending the lead
first _up_, then _back_. A piece of 1/2-inch iron pipe can be used
as a tool to finish the opening. The iron pipe is larger in
diameter than the bending irons and leaves a more finished surface.
The opening is made of sufficient size to admit the rasped end of
the 1-1/2-inch pipe. When using the irons to enlarge the opening in
the pipe, be sure not to bruise any part of the trap. The
1-1/2-inch pipe is now taken. The ends of this pipe are squared
with the rasp. The drift plug is then driven through the pipe to
take out any bruises or flattened places. The edge of one end is
rasped off to fit the opening made in the 4-inch pipe. The beginner
must strive to make a perfect fit. The accuracy with which these
preparations are made is what helps in a large degree to bring
about a successful job. The next operation is to paper the parts
not to be wiped. The sizes of the joint should be followed as shown
on the sketch. The pipe is first shaved with the shave hook, after
which the paper is pasted on. No paste is allowed to get on the
joint proper. The beginner should by this time have formed the
habit of being neat with his work. Therefore the getting of paste
on the joint surface shows that he is not as neat or as far
advanced as he should be.
SUPPORTING.--The drum is laid lengthwise on the bench and blocks
are put on each side to keep it from rolling, the branch uppermost.
The 1-1/2-inch pipe is held in position the same way as the
vertical branch was held. The catch pan is put under the drum to
catch the surplus solder.
WIPING.--Splash the solder on the branch pipe, also on the drum.
The burning through of the drum is an easy matter. Therefore do not
keep dropping the solder on one place, but keep the ladle moving
continually. With the catch cloth draw the solder up on the branch
covering the top edge of the prepared surface. Splashing the solder
on this top edge melts the solder already on and allows it to run
down on the 4-inch pipe where it is caught with the cloth and again
brought up on the top edge of the branch. When the solder works
freely all around the joint, the top edge is wiped clean and even.
Then any surplus solder is wiped off. The bottom edge is next wiped
clean, after which the body of the joint is wiped into shape,
together with both edges. The edges are wiped very thin so that
when the paper is removed the outline of the joint stands out very
distinctly. A thick edge on a joint gives an unworkmanlike
appearance to the work. The joint is finished with a cross wipe.
The other joints are prepared and wiped the same as the one just
completed. The 1-1/2-inch branch connection taken out of the bottom
of the trap is bent. As this is the first time it has been
necessary to bend lead pipe in these jobs, I will cover this
operation in detail. The pipe is first straightened and the drift
plug driven through it. The pipe is marked where the bend is to be
made. The bending spring, size 1-1/2 inches, is put into the pipe,
the center of the spring coming about where the bend is to be made.
The pipe is then heated where it was marked to be bent. The proper
heat for this pipe is just so that the hand cannot stand being laid
against it. The pipe is held in the hands and on the end nearest
the heat is hit against the floor at an angle. The pipe, with the
first blow, will start to bend. With a few more strokes the desired
bend will be obtained. The bending spring can now be pulled out.
Put a little water in the pipe, then put one end of the spring in
the vise, twist the pipe, and the spring will come out when the
pipe is pulled away from it. The bending spring holds the pipe
cylindrical while it is being bent. Without the spring, the pipe
would be badly crushed at the bend and rendered almost unfit for
service. Another good way to bend pipe is to plug one end and fill
the pipe full of sand, then plug the open end. The pipe is then
heated where the bend is to be made. The pipe can then be bent over
the knee. When all the joints are wiped, the paper should be taken
off and the lead cleaned with sand and water. The trap is now
complete except the brass clean-out to be soldered on the top. The
inside of the trap should not have any rough edges or drops of
solder in it.
[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Drum trap.]
There are two other drum traps to be made. The materials needed are
the same as for the above trap except for 18 inches more of
1-1/2-inch lead pipe. The support, preparation, and wiping are the
same. The beginner by this time should feel very well acquainted
with lead and solder. Therefore, the details of these two drum
traps can be left for the beginner to work out for himself. The
sketches are very distinct and readable and will be of considerable
assistance. The beginner should make these traps.
POINTS TO BE REMEMBERED.--
_First_, use 4-inch lead pipe, 8 pounds to the foot.
_Second_, dresser and spring are new tools. Study their use.
_Third_, gradually work the trap into shape with the dresser.
_Fourth_, plug the hole with a piece of lead pipe.
_Fifth_, prepare and wipe the plugged hole first.
_Sixth_, prepare and wipe the 1-1/2-inch branches.
_Seventh_, special care should be taken to keep the work neat.
_Eighth_, two ways of using the bending spring.
_Ninth_, wipe thin edges on joints.
_Tenth_, do not handle finished work.
_Eleventh_, clean and finish the work neatly.
THE PRACTICAL USE OF THE PRECEDING EXERCISES
In the foregoing exercises, I have confined myself to the actual
work of making the various joints. Now I will explain the practical
use of them.
SOLDERING IRON.--The soldering iron is a tool that is used in work
that requires heat to fuse solder and the parts to be united. Every
plumber should have at least two irons in his kit.
THE CUP JOINT.--While the cup joint is not employed to any great
extent in modern plumbing, yet it has its use in the installation
of some fixtures. Lavatories, bath and toilets are sometimes
connected with a short piece of lead on the supply. The tail pieces
on the faucets can be soldered on the lead by means of a cup joint.
A cup joint well made with a deep cup and the solder well fused is
as strong as a wiped joint in a place of this kind. The evil of the
cup joint is that some mechanics will only fuse the surface and
leave the deep cup only filled with solder and not fused. This
makes a tight joint, but extremely weak. On tin-lined pipe and
block-tin pipe the cup joint is commonly used. When making a cup
joint on block-tin pipe the soldering iron must not touch the pipe
and fine solder should be used. When tin-lined pipe is being
soldered, the tin lining must not be melted.
OVERCAST JOINT.--The overcast joint is not commonly used, but when
there is considerable lead work to do the plumber finds it very
handy in places where a wiped joint would take up too much room. We
use it for an exercise for the reason that it teaches the beginner
very rapidly the use and control of the soldering iron.
FLAT SEAMS.--These seams are used in the construction of roof
flashers, tanks (Sec. 33, Chapter XVIII) and lead safe wastes (Sec.
27, plumbing code). A hatchet iron is sometimes used on these
seams.
WIPING CLOTHS.--The wiping cloths made of whalebone ticking make
good, serviceable, and lasting cloths. Oil only should be used to
break the cloth in. Moleskin cloths are very good, but they are
very hard to get and cost considerably more. A plumber should
always keep a good supply of ticking cloths on hand. The cloths are
used only for wiping.
1/2-INCH ROUND JOINT.--This joint is the one most often required in
actual practice. It serves to connect two pieces of lead pipe of
the same or different diameters. It is also used to connect lead
and other materials of which pipe is made. The workman, when he
gets out on the job, finds that his work cannot be supported for
wiping in such an easy and convenient position as illustrated in
the exercises. It will be necessary to wipe the joint at almost
every conceivable angle and position. The workman must employ his
ingenuity to overcome any difficulties that may arise. Any draught
of air should be avoided as it will make the solder cool quickly.
2-INCH BRASS FERRULE.--When it is found necessary to connect
cast-iron and lead pipe, it is done by means of a brass ferrule
wiped on the lead pipe. This joint is a very common joint and is
found on sink, tray, and bath connections, as well as in many other
connections that have lead and cast-iron pipes for wastes.
4-INCH BRASS FERRULE.--The 4-inch brass ferrule wiped on lead pipe
is found under almost every closet. There is generally a piece of
lead connecting the toilet with the soil pipe. Therefore, a brass
ferrule is wiped on the lead and the ferrule connected with the
soil pipe. This joint is also found on rain leader connections near
the roof, connecting the gutter with the rain leader stack.
STOP COCK.--When a shut-off is required in a line of lead water
pipe, these joints are used. Where it is necessary to joint lead
and brass, this joint is required. The art of heat control over the
lead and the brass is the essential point in these joints.
BRANCH JOINTS 5/8 AND 1/2 INCHES.--Where it is found necessary to
take a branch from a water pipe, this joint is used at the
connection. In practice, this joint may have to be wiped in
positions that are rather difficult to reach, so the wiping of
joints in the positions called for in the exercises is exceedingly
good practice.
BRANCH JOINTS 1-1/2 INCHES.--These joints are very common and are
found on waste and vent pipes. They are also found on urinal
flush-pipe connections where the branch often is brass and the run
lead.
BIB.--When lead supplies are run directly to the bib on a sink,
this joint is necessary. It becomes necessary to wipe in a piece of
brass for a brass-pipe connection from a lead pipe, in which case
this joint is called for.
THE DRUM TRAP.--The drum trap is used under sinks, baths, showers,
and trays.